i just did mine today but i cheated you can eliminate 90% of these steps tho. i dissconnected the top and bottom and zip tied the new cable to the old one and pulled it through. so no removing any body parts.
@@AlcatrazMeow He just connected the two cables together and pulled the new in by pulling the old out 😉 You can connect the cables by "zipping" with tie raps (or taping) them together...
mine just snapped today while I was out riding. . sucked I had to gun it and ride off .. thanks bud for the video. . hope your still riding around. . mines an r1 2000 year. .
Not stretching specifically. Mine was actually fraying after about 3 years, which did cause it to lose some tension. I noticed because even with the lever all the way pulled in, it was still trying to go forward, and was really hard to get into neutral.
My R1 clutch cable frayed and snapped recently. I was quoted $2- $300.00 in the NYC area to fix it by what some of you refer to as "stealerships"? This was based on their estimate of 1.5 hours labor. So to be clear and in other words, if you have 1) a full service motorcycle shop and 2) a team of "Factory Trained Technicians" it takes about an hour and a half. Alternatively, you can watch it get done on TH-cam in 12 minutes and 28 seconds. In my case (and despite being the first time I ever fixed anything on a bike since I started riding in 1994) I managed to replace it in about 15 minutes, also using the zip tie method and without removing the fairings, while enjoying a cool drink in my driveway. My clutch feels better than ever.
Yup, that's exactly what prompted me to start doing stuff. Bleeding brakes is like $10 for a tool and another $10 for a bottle of fluid, both high estimates...vs like 100-200 at a shop done by someone who doesn't really care. Most motorcycle work is pretty easy overall once you get into it. Glad you saved the money. 2-300 for a clutch cable is insane.
@@JohnPaulCraig Here's another one. After 6 bikes, thousands in service for nearly 20 years and as much as say, $750 for a new set of Michelin Pilot whatevers installed, I finally got fed up. So last week, by no less than THREE dealers in the NYC area, I was quoted $250 PLUS tax, plus "recycling fees", plus something else for LABOUR ONLY to install new tires. So another rule of thumb for the group: if you have a full service shop, hydraulic tire changers, and a team of "factory trained technicians" it will take (at least) an HOUR PER WHEEL to install new tires. Alternatively - and although I have never worked on my bikes doing anything in my entire life - I found eureka (!) I was able to a) lift the rear with a simple rear stand b) loosen the axle nut c) remove the caliper, axle and wheel in about 90 seconds, while enjoying a cool drink in my driveway. Then, $25 more only to a local retailer to install the rear tire which I put back on in about 10 minutes.
thanks for posting this mate. i was riding home the other night and something just didn't feel right when i was shifting. i got home and noticed today that my cable is fraying apart, EXACTLY like yours was. now i know what to do to fix it. just need to get the cable and do it. just out of curiosity, does anyone know how much a repair shop would charge to fix this? my time is limited, so i need to weigh my options as to whether or not i'm going to tackle this one myself. I have a 2004 Ninja ZX10r. Thanks again for posting this, mate. Cheers!
Glad it helped. No idea what a shop charges, but just keep in mind that the cable is $20ish and it takes about 15-20mins of labor. So anything more than 50-70 and I'd say they're ripping you off. Just my opinion.
John-Paul Craig thanks for the info. I called every motorcycle shop near me and nobody carries the cable for my bike, so I just ordered one off ebay. Looks like I'll be installing this one on my own. I'll follow your video :-). Thx again.
John-Paul Craig I just ordered a clutch cable off ebay as well. A little disappointed it didn't come with a wheel to go into the handle. And it seems like I can't find that anywhere lol
What do you mean the little wheel was on the inside? I have a kawasaki zx6r and this is my second clutch cable. I am wondering what could be causing it........Can you explain the wheel bit to me? Thanks
right where the clutch cable attaches to the lever, there should be an adjustment wheel/knob that you have to line up the cutout in order to get the clutch cable on. Then if you turn it after it's through, it wont be able to come out since the cutout is no longer lined up. Watch right around 11:30 to see what I'm talking about.
Hiya,i'm looking for a bit help. I have the same issue with bike going forward with lever in plus a judder when i try to pull away quickish,no dumping of clutch for me.Could this be just a new cable needed or possibly a new clutch kit needed?
Yes, the knob will very slightly change where the clutch bites. But if its too far out of the operating range, you may need to adjust at the other end where the nuts are. The knob is only for final fine adjustment.
I'd try the cable first, it's only about 20 bucks. If your cable isn't frayed at all, try either adjusting it from the handle or the adjustment by the clutch itself to make it a little tighter. If you needed a new clutch, I'd imagine it'd be slipping moreso than grabbing.
aimer982 looked at my r6 quick going out the door. if you're having trouble removing the cable, make sure to turn the wheel all the way in at the handle so the lever is very relaxed. if you still can't get the line off, then make sure to unhook the cable from the mount by the clutch itself. that should make it very loose and easy to get off.
John-Paul Craig Removing the cable was the easy part, replacing it with the new one is what I'm having trouble with. When I connect one end the other end doesn't reach. I need 2 or 3 more inches of cable to reach. Maybe is the wrong cable so I will exchange it, but if still does the same thing then I have some serious head scratching to do lol
bro where do i get the clutch cable ready to install like youres? here in miami they are selling them for 70-100$ like wtf where did you get it for 25$?
front turn signals are flush Lockhart Phillips, rear license plate and turn signals are some random brand from dealership. seat cowl is genuine Yamaha part.
I actually didn't lube mine...mostly because I was being lazy. But just about anything meant for it should be fine. I've had no issues with the cable installed in this video since it was posted.
they should all be very close. Only difference being what the bracket by the clutch looks like and how the barbell attaches to the clutch mechanism itself (like if theres a locking tab that needs to be bent away or not, etc). I've done this on 2 yamahas and a honda cbr600rr, and the concept was basically exactly the same.
Thanks for the the vid teach, I'll do mine tomorrow it's snapped on me today pissed me off right as me and my boy were bouncin to meet the crew should it be the same steps for the 2015 R6 I'm sure right? And buddy that didn't remove his old clutch cable, Remove that lol, and other dude the dealer gonna knock you over the head like Mike Tyson just for a clutch cable, the homie right here just showed you how easy it was lmao, save your money I am👌🏻
I own a Yamaha R1, 2009 and this video has been very useful. Thank you ever so much. Can't tell you how helpful this video was..
i just did mine today but i cheated you can eliminate 90% of these steps tho. i dissconnected the top and bottom and zip tied the new cable to the old one and pulled it through. so no removing any body parts.
That is a great idea, thanks for saving us all some time man.
not everyone above average buddy
What do you mean you zipped tie it, i dont understand
@@AlcatrazMeow He just connected the two cables together and pulled the new in by pulling the old out 😉
You can connect the cables by "zipping" with tie raps (or taping) them together...
i just did this same thing on my yamaha 125zr. 👍🏻
Now can go and replace my big bang cable so that I can start riding again. The video is of a great help indeed mate
just bought myself a 2012 r1 here in hawaii and ur videos helped me map my way around my bike. thanks man.. subbed-
you should make new videos man. iam sure your tired of it or something but they help people so that's awesome.
mine just snapped today while I was out riding. . sucked I had to gun it and ride off .. thanks bud for the video. . hope your still riding around. . mines an r1 2000 year. .
Thanks! This will hopefully help with my Ninja 300 clutch cable replacement.
superb video. need to do my r6 and I'm thinking it's gonna be somewhat similar and this gives me a really good start. thanks a lot!
Not stretching specifically. Mine was actually fraying after about 3 years, which did cause it to lose some tension. I noticed because even with the lever all the way pulled in, it was still trying to go forward, and was really hard to get into neutral.
Hey I have a Suzuki 750 , I can’t figure out how to adjust the cable at the course adjuster
My R1 clutch cable frayed and snapped recently. I was quoted $2- $300.00 in the NYC area to fix it by what some of you refer to as "stealerships"? This was based on their estimate of 1.5 hours labor. So to be clear and in other words, if you have 1) a full service motorcycle shop and 2) a team of "Factory Trained Technicians" it takes about an hour and a half. Alternatively, you can watch it get done on TH-cam in 12 minutes and 28 seconds. In my case (and despite being the first time I ever fixed anything on a bike since I started riding in 1994) I managed to replace it in about 15 minutes, also using the zip tie method and without removing the fairings, while enjoying a cool drink in my driveway. My clutch feels better than ever.
Yup, that's exactly what prompted me to start doing stuff. Bleeding brakes is like $10 for a tool and another $10 for a bottle of fluid, both high estimates...vs like 100-200 at a shop done by someone who doesn't really care.
Most motorcycle work is pretty easy overall once you get into it. Glad you saved the money. 2-300 for a clutch cable is insane.
@@JohnPaulCraig Here's another one. After 6 bikes, thousands in service for nearly 20 years and as much as say, $750 for a new set of Michelin Pilot whatevers installed, I finally got fed up. So last week, by no less than THREE dealers in the NYC area, I was quoted $250 PLUS tax, plus "recycling fees", plus something else for LABOUR ONLY to install new tires. So another rule of thumb for the group: if you have a full service shop, hydraulic tire changers, and a team of "factory trained technicians" it will take (at least) an HOUR PER WHEEL to install new tires. Alternatively - and although I have never worked on my bikes doing anything in my entire life - I found eureka (!) I was able to a) lift the rear with a simple rear stand b) loosen the axle nut c) remove the caliper, axle and wheel in about 90 seconds, while enjoying a cool drink in my driveway. Then, $25 more only to a local retailer to install the rear tire which I put back on in about 10 minutes.
Good video. Attach/ tape the new cable to the old cable before pulling out the old cable. This should pull the new cable through and save some time.
Thanks for the instructions, man. I appreciate it.
When installing the cable, did you do anything with the zip tie guides or did you leave them loose?
It's been a long time. If they're reusable zip ties I loosened em. If not I just cut em and added new ones later.
thanks for posting this mate. i was riding home the other night and something just didn't feel right when i was shifting. i got home and noticed today that my cable is fraying apart, EXACTLY like yours was. now i know what to do to fix it. just need to get the cable and do it. just out of curiosity, does anyone know how much a repair shop would charge to fix this? my time is limited, so i need to weigh my options as to whether or not i'm going to tackle this one myself. I have a 2004 Ninja ZX10r.
Thanks again for posting this, mate. Cheers!
Glad it helped. No idea what a shop charges, but just keep in mind that the cable is $20ish and it takes about 15-20mins of labor. So anything more than 50-70 and I'd say they're ripping you off. Just my opinion.
John-Paul Craig thanks for the info. I called every motorcycle shop near me and nobody carries the cable for my bike, so I just ordered one off ebay. Looks like I'll be installing this one on my own. I'll follow your video :-). Thx again.
John-Paul Craig
I just ordered a clutch cable off ebay as well. A little disappointed it didn't come with a wheel to go into the handle. And it seems like I can't find that anywhere lol
What do you mean the little wheel was on the inside? I have a kawasaki zx6r and this is my second clutch cable. I am wondering what could be causing it........Can you explain the wheel bit to me? Thanks
right where the clutch cable attaches to the lever, there should be an adjustment wheel/knob that you have to line up the cutout in order to get the clutch cable on. Then if you turn it after it's through, it wont be able to come out since the cutout is no longer lined up. Watch right around 11:30 to see what I'm talking about.
This is great. Thank you.
Hiya,i'm looking for a bit help. I have the same issue with bike going forward with lever in plus a judder when i try to pull away quickish,no dumping of clutch for me.Could this be just a new cable needed or possibly a new clutch kit needed?
Awesome video bro thank you it helped me out a lot. New subscriber 👍🏻
Might be a little late but, when you adjust the tension "thing" does it change your biting point?
thanks In advance
Yes, the knob will very slightly change where the clutch bites. But if its too far out of the operating range, you may need to adjust at the other end where the nuts are. The knob is only for final fine adjustment.
I'd try the cable first, it's only about 20 bucks. If your cable isn't frayed at all, try either adjusting it from the handle or the adjustment by the clutch itself to make it a little tighter. If you needed a new clutch, I'd imagine it'd be slipping moreso than grabbing.
great vid we want more
I'm having the same problems. i have a 2005 r1, is the replacement the same on the 09 and 05?
it should be very close. I did a cbr600rr also and it was nearly the same.
+John-Paul Craig thanks man !
Is it the same for an r6? I'm trying but it's not as easy. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. Please help
aimer982 I haven't done an r6 yet, but it should be very similar. the only difference should be how it attaches at the clutch.
John-Paul Craig ok thank you brother
aimer982 looked at my r6 quick going out the door. if you're having trouble removing the cable, make sure to turn the wheel all the way in at the handle so the lever is very relaxed. if you still can't get the line off, then make sure to unhook the cable from the mount by the clutch itself. that should make it very loose and easy to get off.
John-Paul Craig Removing the cable was the easy part, replacing it with the new one is what I'm having trouble with. When I connect one end the other end doesn't reach. I need 2 or 3 more inches of cable to reach. Maybe is the wrong cable so I will exchange it, but if still does the same thing then I have some serious head scratching to do lol
bro where do i get the clutch cable ready to install like youres?
here in miami they are selling them for 70-100$ like wtf where did you get it for 25$?
I get OEM parts from mrcycles.com. it has every stock part at usually pretty good prices.
Walter I got mines on eBay for 11 bucks
Where did you get those indicators and the seat lid from? Are they actual Yamaha or another brand?
front turn signals are flush Lockhart Phillips, rear license plate and turn signals are some random brand from dealership. seat cowl is genuine Yamaha part.
+John-Paul Craig Thanks man. Looks awesome.
To lube the cable, what kinda lube do you recommend using? I am doing this very soon
I actually didn't lube mine...mostly because I was being lazy. But just about anything meant for it should be fine. I've had no issues with the cable installed in this video since it was posted.
Would this be similar to a ninja zx9r?
they should all be very close. Only difference being what the bracket by the clutch looks like and how the barbell attaches to the clutch mechanism itself (like if theres a locking tab that needs to be bent away or not, etc).
I've done this on 2 yamahas and a honda cbr600rr, and the concept was basically exactly the same.
helpful, thanks, I just changed mine in MT03
where did you purchase your cable from
mrcycles dot com, i believe
Very helpful, thank you
thanks for the video!
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the the vid teach, I'll do mine tomorrow it's snapped on me today pissed me off right as me and my boy were bouncin to meet the crew should it be the same steps for the 2015 R6 I'm sure right? And buddy that didn't remove his old clutch cable,
Remove that lol, and other dude the dealer gonna knock you over the head like Mike Tyson just for a clutch cable, the homie right here just showed you how easy it was lmao, save your money I am👌🏻
thanks not too difficult to do thanks for the video really helps!! Top stuff :)
I paid $76 for clutch cable from the stealership for r1 2012
He literally cut out the part I needed help on
Btw, I've got a 2008 R1 totally cherry I'm selling for six grand if you know anybody. Thanks
Lol nice minecraft tattoos....
T y
not an easy fix imo, Im taking mine to the dealer
Really? Few bolts and some adjusting and you're good to go...
Great vid. Thank you