Building an enclosure for my Prusa i3 MK3s using Ikea Lack tables
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 พ.ค. 2024
- I've decided to build an enclosure for my printer.
Now I can print with ABS and other cool filaments.
I will tell you what mistakes I've made during creating this enclosure and how to avoid them.
Also I will talk about cost of creating this enclosure and my thoughts about this design.
Original design:
blog.prusaprinters.org/cheap-...
My files:
www.thingiverse.com/medyk3d/c...
BOM:
3x Ikea LACK table 75,00 zł 19,77 USD (3 tables)
Plexi cut to size 110,00 zł 28,98 USD
Smoke detector 39,84 zł 10,50 USD
Thermometer 39,13 zł 10,31 USD (6 pieces)
Screws 4,38 zł 1,15 USD
Magnets 10 zł 3,64 USD (20 pieces)
Total: 278,35 zł 74,35 USD
3D printed time print time: 52 hours and 30 minutes
Filament used: 600g
Do you have any ideas what I can make next? Any questions, thoughts?
Leave a comment now!
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- posting a comment,
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- buying me a coffee (filament in fact).
That really helps me, thanks!
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Share the love and 3D print everything.
Many thanks to the whole 3D printing community.
#medyk3D #3DPrinting #prusaEnclosure - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Do you have an enclosure for your 3D printer?
Not yet, It is planned though ^^
Are you going to use Ikea Lack tables or something different?
@@medyk3D Yes!
I am in the process of building one please may I have the files you used for the psu and the additional table mounts thanks
@@matthewrobinson6388 The bottom table mounts: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2041575
Actually for the PSU I used custom holders, I will upload them in a while.
Been looking at a lot of youtube videos over past few days and this is one of the easyist to follow so will be building it this week as have the tables ready!! Thank you for a easy to follow simple lack enclosure build, Great Video.....
Thanks! Be sure to check to original guide from Prusa: blog.prusa3d.com/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure_7785/
Love the enclosure! I need to make something like that.
It is great. Little bit wobbly and the door hinges needed some attention. But nothing major. Especailly for the money
I’d think it might feel more stable with rolls of filament etc on the bottom shelves to add some weight. I’ll be doing the same design myself..... once my printer arrives. Got all the screws, Perspex etc to build the enclosure.... just waiting on the printer to make plastic parts and do the rest. Also going to do the V2 for MMU later.
Good video as well. I’ll keep my iPad nearby to watch as I go, also going to print some L shaped brackets to help stabilise the legs.
You help me a lot man. Thanks
Awesome, glad it was helpful for you :)
Nice idea 🤩
Thanks!
I printed 1mm thick spacers for the two front legs to solve the door hinge rubbing issue. Worked for me.
That's a great and simple idea. I changed the bottom corners so I can deatach my side panels (www.thingiverse.com/thing:4548027/) and now the doors are working ok.
For now thera are two issues: it is wobbly, and it could be higher so I can add a concrete paver like Stefan did: th-cam.com/video/y08v6PY_7ak/w-d-xo.html
Nice video
Thanks!
Nice building!
For what do you need two tables? Why not just Polycarbonate on the top without a second table?
The table on top act as a sturdier frame. You can place filament on top of it.
Where did you find the PSU enclosure and support? The one I found is only for the silver PSU?
I made one: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4580952
Before 3D printing it check the dimensions of your PSU. I have the black from i3 MK3s, but I'm not sure if all are the same. I found one holder for the black PSU and it didn't fit.
Here all the other models:
www.thingiverse.com/medyk3d/collections/prusaikealacktableenclosure
Hi Can you please share where you got the STL for the Camera Mount. Thanks
This one www.printables.com/pl/model/18058-logitech-c920-camera-stand ?
You need to remove original holder from your camera, so you will lose the warranty
No prob. Thank you.
Do you have 440mm plexi classes? I'm really struggling with the fit..
I bought mine online cut to size.
Quick question where did you end up using 20 magnets?All i used was 4 (2 for the door and 1 for each of the door handles)
I modified it so back and side panels are detachable. For holding the panels I'm using magnets - 4 per panel.
Here is the video about magnetic side panels: th-cam.com/video/wPDDAKRXscM/w-d-xo.html
But I put 20 magnets in BoM because I bought them in bulk of 20 pieces. For this design you just need 4. For magnetic side panels another 12.
@@medyk3D i see.
Thank you for the reply :)
@@simaocarreira3262 No problems. Thanks for coming by. Cheers!
Is it mandatory to remove and relocate the power supply?
According to blog.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure_7785/
"keeping the PSU in temperatures above 40-50°C can significantly shorten its lifespan"
So it depends on the temp inside. While printing with ABS for an hour it reached 28°C inside. 35°C is considered to be safe, so the PSU can stay inside.
Recently I printed with Nylon and the fan shroud deformed/melted, but I haven't checked the temp inside. I think that it wasn't above 35°C.
While printing with PLA I keep the side panels deattached. PETG and ABS closed.
@@medyk3D I have the same enclosure and I just mounted a small fan at the top, in the back, facing out in a cut out hole in the plexi. I also leave 1 or both doors open when printing PLA. Don't think it's necessary to remove the side panels. 👍
@@jamadeus13 For me it's easier and more convinent to remove the side panels. Now I have them easily detachable with magnets, so while printing with PLA I just remove them. I can leave the doors closed so they don't get in the way (I placed the printer in a narrow room).
Adding a fan is a good option.
In the summer leaving the doors open wasn't enough.
@@medyk3D OK, I understand. Well, anyways, thanks for a good video!
@@jamadeus13 Thanks, glad you liked it. Cheers!
Where did you get plexi for $30?
On allegro (polish Amazon). It was back in 2019. Here is actual offer for 1000x1000 3mm for 140 PLN ($35)
allegro.pl/oferta/poliweglan-lity-1000x1000-bezbarwny-3-mm-11381694607?
@@medyk3D Ah, I ended up digging around and the cheapest I could find was from TAP Plastics here in the US. Was something like $56 US total shipped, so not too far off. Thank you for the info!
@@medyk3D Thanks, I was able to get some for $38+shipping at TAP Plastics here in the US!
Hi, can you share stl for table mount 16:25 thank you :)
The bottom table mounts: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2041575
@@medyk3D Thank you very much
IKEA Lack is always the first attempt to gain some experience ... but then you should move on.
In fact this was my second enclosure. The first one I simply made out of white chipboard and piano hinges for my Anet A6 Prusified. Much sturdier but there is no easy way to take a look inside without opening it. Ikea Lack is nicer but wobbly and little bit too small.
52 hour print time? Hell naw, I'll fabricate something in the garage in a small fraction of the time. A clear example of why not everything that can be, should be printed on a 3D printer. Mixed media, guys. There's a time to use metal and woods tools, and a time to use plastics.
This is true. But during the print time you can do other things/projects. Not everyone has a garage and tools needed to create a decent looking cabinet. If you only have a 3D Printer and limited space this idea is ok. But if you can build a custom enclosure it is obviously a better option (it will be much more sturdy for sure, this is one is little wobbly).
This case looks bad .... First of all weak insulation. Second of all whats the point placing filament outside of enclosure? It can get moisture ....
Yeah it sucks. Would be better to use v-slots or other profiles and create a bigger enclosure with place for filament, heating element, fan and electronics to control the temperature inside. But then it would cost more than the printer itself. The size/price for this one is comparable to Creality 3D Printer Enclosure (medium one). For the PA/ASA filaments you would need a drybox. Most of the enclosures I know (for rat rig or voron) do not have a place for the filament either. For Bambulab X1 you need AMS.