Thank you. That was helpful in getting the joint off the end of the axel. Wasn’t sure how it was held onto the shaft. One important pro tip. When applying the grease, you should force it down thru the center hole of the joint. That way it forces the old grease out thru the bearings where you can wipe it off with rags. I’ve done hundreds of these, just not a VW. Thanks again!! Great video!!
You do not want to get into losening balljoint castle nuts that hold the integrity of the joint. In this case, all you had to do was remove the 3 bolts that secure the ball joint to the control arm. Also, you do not need to remove the axle from the car. It's best to do it on the car. This way you're not losening the inner side bolts. If you do loosen them, its best practice to replace them. You always must replace the hub bolt. This is a very high torque stretch bolt. You do not want that bolt once its been torqued to spec. Other than that, it's an ok job.
Thank you for your opinion. I've only done them on American vehicles before where I always remove the axle. But I'll keep the advice for next time 👍. When you undo those 3 ball joint bolts, don't you have to do an alignment? I just changed the ball joint on my vw golf and the steering was of by a lot after. You can see how bad it was of you check my Instagram. I'm just called autotechworld on Instagram. You may want to subscribe to see if I get better 😉
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY hi. No. Not on this vehicle. I was going to comment on that in my orevious post, but I figured it's too much overhead. On some vehicles, the ball joint is set up so it allows camber adjustment on the car. When that's the case, you will notice that the control arm has no boolt holes or studs protruding out of it. There is usually another piece of hardware that allows the ball joint to slide into the arm and then have an extensive play in the arm until tightened down. On this vehicle, the ball joint stays in a fixed position onto the arm and has no movement. That's because this vehicle can not have its camber adjusted. At least not standard. You can install camber adjusting bolt in the place of one of your strut to knuckle bolts. And yes, the only VW GOLF I know to have camber adjustment through the balljoint securing bolts is the MK 4 Golf.
@@HristovRumen mk3 and older use the ball joint for camber adjustment. I'd do it all the time for fun on my mk3s. It would give it so much camber it looked like this in the front / \ and yea didnt go very straight lol
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY So it actually has a circlip on the end and and plastic retainer ring like yours further in but smaller. with metal con-caved washer at the end with plastic retainer.
Good job! How do you know when putting the cv end on that all the splines are aligned? When I try to put it back on it just wants to keep turning on me and balls wanting to come out.
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY so when I try to put the outer cv axle unit back on the shaft it doesn’t want to line up that great with splines and turns as I try to tap it back on. Just using old one to test on. Is it because the circlip not snap ring needs to be new for the spline to line up?
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY so I don’t need a new circlip for it to go back on and can essentially reuse the old inside hardware? I was thinking I may need a new circlip and why it wasn’t going back on as it messes up when pulling off.
It can mess it up sometimes. But I found if I remove the circlip and put the new one on, it is usually much harder to put it back in, then if I would just reuse the old one. Because by putting it on, I have to stretch it open and then I feel like it's really tough to go on.
If anyone is having problems tapping on the cv end like iam onto splines it helps to move circlip or in other cases snap ring with a small screw driver and align it with mating the two before tapping on..
From what I gathered so far from all the information I got, there is two options. There is some that do have a retaining ring that keep the shot in, but some that are just bolted on as you see in the video. Would that answer your question?
How does the inner shaft bolt to the outer shaft that drives the hub, it cant be the main hub bolt, and theres a retaining ring groove visible in the inner shaft when you're doing reassembly I'm doing mine tomorrow morning hence the concern
You don't have to take off and of those other bolts. Just the axle bolts literally. If u turn the hub and push it will come out. They made it that way so u don't have to. Just a FYI to make it easier.
There have been times when working on my Jetta's brakes I found myself wishing I had a low profile impact driver. That is because on one side of the car you have to pull up but it is very cramped under there. I am already picturing people with painful lumps on their heads and stars and birds circling them.
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY also, what's the name of the thread stud you put in to hold the tire in place while removing or putting back the lug nuts . And where could I get that? Thank you.
It's called a wheel stud alignment tool. Here's a link to it on Amazon.com 👇 amzn.to/2wfyPvt I'll also add it to the description where I have listed everything else I'm using in the video.
No, there is no need for that, because you don't pull the axle out of the gearbox. You unbolt it from a flange that stays in the gearbox. If that makes sense?
Wasn't sure when I filmed either, so just called it third hand 🙈. But here is what it's called with a link to it. wheel stud alignment tool amzn.to/2wfyPvt Just so you know, I do get a little commission when you use my link to buy, but for you all the prices and everything will be as normal. It's a link just so Amazon knows I've brought you there and as a thank you they'll give me a commission. So in other words, it would help me out.
Well, I'm lost there, I tried to look up a 2008 Golf mk5 but couldn't find anything. Very often (on other makes) those axles are just popped into the transmission and you just need to pop them out with a pry bar or something, But I'm not sure if that is the case with yours though and I don't want you braking it. Maybe give your local dealer a call and ask them, or a Dealer from a little further away. They'll probably tell you what's is going on. Sorry for the no help
Did you ever get it off ? I have the same 2008 golf with no inner bolts in the axel. I had to cut 2 wood shims on left and right side and hammer them in upwards that’s what worked for me after I spent hours trying to pop it out with pry bars and chisels and it wouldn’t come out. I just ordered a new cv axel from parts source and they delivered a cv axel with the 6 holes for the 6 bolts. Now I have to order another cv axel from another parts place and hope to find the right cv axel with no holes for the 6 bolts on the inner side of the axel.
That is exactly the sound it makes. Arty this point just replacing the boot isn't going to fix the noise. You'll have to replace the complete CV-axle. Be sure to check you wheel bearing though before just replacing the CV-axle.
In my 1994 Jetta(Vento) once right side shaft bolts got all loose. I was very lucky the final happened 100m from home at walking speed. It must be because somebody in car's history has not tighten them to any sensible torque.
I wish I could tell you. But I haven't personally done any. I would assume that they would be very close though. The parts are probably a little different though.
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY had some trouble putting the inner back together. the CV joint looks symmetrical but it is not. on reassembly i got it reversed and it would not go on tight enough to allow the snap ring to seat properly. took it off looked very closely at it and realized i had it reversed. for a messy job it is oddly satisfying once completed.
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY In the shop now, but i think they didnt use a torque wrench... it sucks, i was in the middle of delivering food, Thanks for the reply!
Call those 12 point or triple square but I will cringe and curse at you if I ever hear you call them Torx. Although it seems possible to use a Torx bit in such a bolt that can be a big mistake that will only cause difficulty for you. That would be the punishment for mistaking those for Torx!!
Thank you. That was helpful in getting the joint off the end of the axel. Wasn’t sure how it was held onto the shaft. One important pro tip. When applying the grease, you should force it down thru the center hole of the joint. That way it forces the old grease out thru the bearings where you can wipe it off with rags. I’ve done hundreds of these, just not a VW. Thanks again!! Great video!!
Thanks for chiming in
This video saved me I had to do it in the car as it was seized but using the bolt to push off the joint was a life saver
Awesome. May God bless you
You do not want to get into losening balljoint castle nuts that hold the integrity of the joint. In this case, all you had to do was remove the 3 bolts that secure the ball joint to the control arm.
Also, you do not need to remove the axle from the car. It's best to do it on the car. This way you're not losening the inner side bolts. If you do loosen them, its best practice to replace them.
You always must replace the hub bolt. This is a very high torque stretch bolt. You do not want that bolt once its been torqued to spec.
Other than that, it's an ok job.
Thank you for your opinion. I've only done them on American vehicles before where I always remove the axle. But I'll keep the advice for next time 👍. When you undo those 3 ball joint bolts, don't you have to do an alignment?
I just changed the ball joint on my vw golf and the steering was of by a lot after. You can see how bad it was of you check my Instagram. I'm just called autotechworld on Instagram. You may want to subscribe to see if I get better 😉
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY hi. No. Not on this vehicle. I was going to comment on that in my orevious post, but I figured it's too much overhead. On some vehicles, the ball joint is set up so it allows camber adjustment on the car. When that's the case, you will notice that the control arm has no boolt holes or studs protruding out of it. There is usually another piece of hardware that allows the ball joint to slide into the arm and then have an extensive play in the arm until tightened down. On this vehicle, the ball joint stays in a fixed position onto the arm and has no movement. That's because this vehicle can not have its camber adjusted. At least not standard. You can install camber adjusting bolt in the place of one of your strut to knuckle bolts. And yes, the only VW GOLF I know to have camber adjustment through the balljoint securing bolts is the MK 4 Golf.
@@HristovRumen ok. Thank you 👌
My VW doesn't have bolts at the end of the axle, but it wouldn't budge, any suggestions please?
@@HristovRumen mk3 and older use the ball joint for camber adjustment. I'd do it all the time for fun on my mk3s. It would give it so much camber it looked like this in the front / \ and yea didnt go very straight lol
Great video..i was looking for this exact solution.i wish someone professional mech like you near my area.
Thanks. Good bless
Excellent job. Very professional!
Thank you very much. 👍
Great video! What’s the difference between this and 2011 Volkswagen Jetta Tdi 2.0L W/DSG? Doesn’t it have snap ring on the end of mine?
I don't know.
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY So it actually has a circlip on the end and and plastic retainer ring like yours further in but smaller. with metal con-caved washer at the end with plastic retainer.
Is it possible to rebuild that outside boot without taking the whole axle out?
It may be. I usually just take the hole axle out. Then I can take it on the bench.
Hello, Just out of curiosity. I'm about to do this procedure, but wouldn't be easier just to replace the axels? Thanks
I'm sure it would be. It will cost more though.
Good job! How do you know when putting the cv end on that all the splines are aligned? When I try to put it back on it just wants to keep turning on me and balls wanting to come out.
Thanks. Not quite sure what you mean
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY so when I try to put the outer cv axle unit back on the shaft it doesn’t want to line up that great with splines and turns as I try to tap it back on. Just using old one to test on. Is it because the circlip not snap ring needs to be new for the spline to line up?
Sometimes it's really tough to get them in. If I remember correctly it should go in any way.
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY so I don’t need a new circlip for it to go back on and can essentially reuse the old inside hardware? I was thinking I may need a new circlip and why it wasn’t going back on as it messes up when pulling off.
It can mess it up sometimes. But I found if I remove the circlip and put the new one on, it is usually much harder to put it back in, then if I would just reuse the old one. Because by putting it on, I have to stretch it open and then I feel like it's really tough to go on.
If anyone is having problems tapping on the cv end like iam onto splines it helps to move circlip or in other cases snap ring with a small screw driver and align it with mating the two before tapping on..
Thanks for the info
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY Absolutely
Good job with video editing and presentation. Very informative. Thank you.
Zen Tex, thank you very much 🙏
isnt there a retaining ring on that inner splined shaft that prevents the CV joint from walking off the shaft
From what I gathered so far from all the information I got, there is two options. There is some that do have a retaining ring that keep the shot in, but some that are just bolted on as you see in the video. Would that answer your question?
How does the inner shaft bolt to the outer shaft that drives the hub, it cant be the main hub bolt, and theres a retaining ring groove visible in the inner shaft when you're doing reassembly
I'm doing mine tomorrow morning hence the concern
Could you maybe mention the time stamp? That way I could look at it and know better what you mean.
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY 9:07 shows the groove and possible ring well on the shaft being held in the vise
I now know what you mean. I was thinking about the CV axle connecting into the transmission. Yes there should be a retaining ring there.
Amazing video precise job thank you so much for the help!
Thank you and I'm glad to help
Can you do a video on how to install heat pad for engine and transmission couldn’t find any I’m sure I’d get a few hits.
Do you mean those oil pan heaters that you stick to the bottom of a pan?
Thanks for the video, it was very easy to follow and precise.
Awesome. Hope you had fun doing it 👍
Have you ever done a boot and re-grease on cv joint before? How did your job come out?
You don't have to take off and of those other bolts. Just the axle bolts literally. If u turn the hub and push it will come out. They made it that way so u don't have to. Just a FYI to make it easier.
Thanks for sharing. I'll keep that in mind 👍
What other bolts are you talking about?
passenger side on vw yes - driver side on vw … not so sure !
Very good video, very helpful, Thanks for sharing. - take care
Thank you very much.
@@AutoTechWorld_DIYYou're very welcome. - take care
Great vid do these axles need reclocking or phasing?
What do you mean?
There have been times when working on my Jetta's brakes I found myself wishing I had a low profile impact driver. That is because on one side of the car you have to pull up but it is very cramped under there. I am already picturing people with painful lumps on their heads and stars and birds circling them.
I've seen the Milwaukee stubby impacts. I think they're awesome.
I am working on the same year jetta and the bolt is 27mm 2.5l
I guess they're not all the same. Hopefully you'll get yours working though 🤞
Great video....will it be the same procedure on 2012 passat 2.5l?
Thank you...... Yes it should be the same. I've just looked it up in the service manual, even the torque specs are the same. Happy wrenching 🤙
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY also, what's the name of the thread stud you put in to hold the tire in place while removing or putting back the lug nuts . And where could I get that? Thank you.
It's called a wheel stud alignment tool. Here's a link to it on Amazon.com 👇
amzn.to/2wfyPvt
I'll also add it to the description where I have listed everything else I'm using in the video.
Will this stop the helicopter clicking noise when turning corners?
No. Unfortunately, at that point the axle is already damaged. So you should just get a new axle.
True name though 👍
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY hello, what is the exact part name for it?
@@Righteouness It is a "CV-axle"
Great video 👍
Thank you very much
Hi, do we need to drain the oil of the gearbox when we remove the axle ?
No, there is no need for that, because you don't pull the axle out of the gearbox. You unbolt it from a flange that stays in the gearbox. If that makes sense?
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY oh ok I understand thank you
Sr, What is the real name of the tool that you call third hand?
Wasn't sure when I filmed either, so just called it third hand 🙈. But here is what it's called with a link to it.
wheel stud alignment tool
amzn.to/2wfyPvt
Just so you know, I do get a little commission when you use my link to buy, but for you all the prices and everything will be as normal. It's a link just so Amazon knows I've brought you there and as a thank you they'll give me a commission. So in other words, it would help me out.
Hi where is your garage loacted...?.?
Manitoba Canada 😉
My car doesn't have bolts at the end of the axle, but it wouldnt budge? Any suggestions?
Any help please?
What car are you working on?
Golf V 2008
Well, I'm lost there, I tried to look up a 2008 Golf mk5 but couldn't find anything. Very often (on other makes) those axles are just popped into the transmission and you just need to pop them out with a pry bar or something, But I'm not sure if that is the case with yours though and I don't want you braking it. Maybe give your local dealer a call and ask them, or a Dealer from a little further away. They'll probably tell you what's is going on. Sorry for the no help
Did you ever get it off ? I have the same 2008 golf with no inner bolts in the axel. I had to cut 2 wood shims on left and right side and hammer them in upwards that’s what worked for me after I spent hours trying to pop it out with pry bars and chisels and it wouldn’t come out. I just ordered a new cv axel from parts source and they delivered a cv axel with the 6 holes for the 6 bolts. Now I have to order another cv axel from another parts place and hope to find the right cv axel with no holes for the 6 bolts on the inner side of the axel.
Thanks for letting us all know.
What sound dose a bad cv usually make. I'm hearing a lound helicopter sound when driving and turning slightly
That is exactly the sound it makes. Arty this point just replacing the boot isn't going to fix the noise. You'll have to replace the complete CV-axle. Be sure to check you wheel bearing though before just replacing the CV-axle.
In my 1994 Jetta(Vento) once right side shaft bolts got all loose. I was very lucky the final happened 100m from home at walking speed. It must be because somebody in car's history has not tighten them to any sensible torque.
Well that's very inconvenient
Is it same to jetta mk6 2012?
I wish I could tell you. But I haven't personally done any. I would assume that they would be very close though. The parts are probably a little different though.
any difference to do the inner boot?
You can do the one boot while you have the outer of. Just slide it all the way back. Does that answer your question?
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY my outer is fine. watched another video on doing the inside one. thanks for your helpful video.
@@dh7277 awesome. Well thank you very much 🙏
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY had some trouble putting the inner back together. the CV joint looks symmetrical but it is not. on reassembly i got it reversed and it would not go on tight enough to allow the snap ring to seat properly. took it off looked very closely at it and realized i had it reversed. for a messy job it is oddly satisfying once completed.
Thanks man.
Your welcome man 😉
Good info..
Thanks. I'm glad you appreciate it 👌
Mine didn't come off
That's too bad
the cat !!! nice
Thank you
Im here because i was driving down the road after transmission work, and the bolts came out.
Oh that's not good. I hope you got it all sorted out 🤞
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY In the shop now, but i think they didnt use a torque wrench... it sucks, i was in the middle of delivering food, Thanks for the reply!
Tell them that it might take a little longer if they use a torque wrench, but they won't have to do it twice 😉
You're never going to get those bolts out again if you use loctite.... Anti-seize would definitely be better.
👍
It’s blue locktite not red.
I used all kinds of tools & ideas & still won't come off
Are you referring to the axle nut?
My work cv axle replacement,,
What do you mean?
My live work dubai
Cool stuff. 👍
This dud acts like if he's changing a whole engine with all those tools lol
😂
Call those 12 point or triple square but I will cringe and curse at you if I ever hear you call them Torx. Although it seems possible to use a Torx bit in such a bolt that can be a big mistake that will only cause difficulty for you. That would be the punishment for mistaking those for Torx!!
You got it!