Excellent vid.....just did this job myself....it is just as well to buy a pre-assembled new axle (do not buy rebuilt EVER as the bearing housings are often shaved & refitted with oversized bearing housings to compensate which in many cases have too much play and will wear out rapidly.... a new completed axle assembly is only $ 20.00 more) ..... is just about the same cost as buying clips, bolt,s boots, and clamps plus they are usually WARRANTED FOR LIFE AKA Duralast & Cardone (got mine from NAPA) for $78.00 U.S......also no messy grease packing required. Always check the boot clamps and re-tighten if necessary....in many instances they will slide off if grease is on the clamp. I always drive the car for ten minutes after assembly to seat the bearings then check to see if a re-tork is necessary for the outside bolt /nut. Always clean the flange bolt holes thoroughly with brake clean to get rid of sand and grit...... If you are going to keep your car for several hundred K miles do not use the locktite on the flange bolts as if you have to do this job again in the future the inside of the flange bolt holes can strip. Some of his tork specs were given in ft/lbs vs; ntn/meters.
12:30 there are 3 types of these bolts: 24mm twelve-point head bolt with ribbing and without ribbing, also 17mm hex bolt without ribbing, only that one with ribbing is torqued to 70Nm + 90 degrees other 200Nm and 180 degrees.
In lieu of a hammer and drift, I found you can thread the old axle bolt all the way in until it pulls the joint off the axle. Just be sure that it's threaded in as square to the axle as possible.
What do you mean by that last sentence? I’m having a very difficult time trying to remove the knuckle. The very first thing I’ve tried was what you just said and didn’t work for me. I screwed it in as much as possible to the point where it would spin the axle in the vice no matter how tight I made it. I’m trying this guy’s method now as we speak but I don’t have one of those brass punch things and don’t want to accidentally damage anything.... S.O.S!!😭
@@ksprague1994 I mean the joint and its bolt should be in a straight line with the axle and the joint isn't flopped over to one side. Sorry it's not working for you. I first tried the method in this video using a hammer and old socket extension and it didn't work.
Thank you so much for this video! INFORMATIVE.. I've replaced cv joints without disconnecting control arm (or other suspension related components) on Honda's but wasnt sure about my '07 GTI. Rear tires have lasted 3 years, fronts just over a year, so im hoping the alignment stays 'preem' (fingers crossed). I am ridiculously fond of this car, but on a low budget. I hope both my CV's come out as smooth as that. Done like a pro, very nice work :-)
What are you doing with the washer? I cant see. There is a plastic, and an other washer in the kit. The only thing i didn't know, how to put on the washers
What's the torque spec for the bolts on the outter boot to the wheel? I think that got skipped in the reinstallation. Or at least I don't think that part was filmed.
Nice, very nice! I have to do this job on an auto and have no clue how to rotate the road wheel/axle to access all the inner 10mm star bolts - any suggestion welcome...
So the socket for the axle bolt is 12 point 24mm - just to make sure again ? The original one on my Rabbit is 27 mm hex but the dealership don't carry this one anymore its superseded with the one that you installed . And something else that I don't get - the purpose of the bolt is to hold the axle and set the bearing . Why so big difference in the torque - 70N/m +90 degree vs 200N/m + 180 degree ?
Thanks for the video Jay, I just did this or trying to do . Everything well like a butter until I tried to pull the cv joint of the axle. Its just not going at all, I tried tapping it, using the axle bolt by treading it all the way in but nothing. Any other options that I can try to get it off?
12:30 I was under the impression that if the axle bolt (CV joint to wheel hub bolt) is ribbed, then it's 70 Nm + 90°, otherwise it's 200 Nm + 180°--no matter hex or 12 point. Is this correct? Thank you!
Me too, for my FWD Tiguan. It is almost impossible to get it onto the axle shaft! There are a couple of "humps" on the axle, and the small end of the plastic boot has virtually no flexibility, and will NOT stretch to slide over the two axle bumps. Obviously, that's the advantage of the rubber boots. I was able to pull off the plastic boot, insert the tips of a pair of right-angle pliers into the inside of the the small end of the boot, and pull the pliers open with all my strength, rotate the boot and repeat, until the small end expanded enough to get over the the axle humps. So I was able to get the boot installed after a great deal of effort and frustration, but then the new washer included in the boot kit was too small, and I couldn't get it onto the splined axle shaft. I had to fall back and use the old one instead. Then, after all that, the circlip was so thick and rigid, that it has so far been impossible to hammer the CV joint back onto the axle splines. It appears that the circlip will not compress and allow the CV joint to slide over it. Super frustrated!
Yessir, But the plate can fall off and the bearrings can fall out. Just tap it loose or get it loose before pulling on it and popping that plate off and having to do extra work.
Hi, good to know of this tutorial,have a question? My car is a vw rabbit 2008 5speed stick shift, and the link says it doesn't fit to my car, there is not a kit for my type of car? Thank you in advice.
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Excellent vid.....just did this job myself....it is just as well to buy a pre-assembled new axle (do not buy rebuilt EVER as the bearing housings are often shaved & refitted with oversized bearing housings to compensate which in many cases have too much play and will wear out rapidly.... a new completed axle assembly is only $ 20.00 more) ..... is just about the same cost as buying clips, bolt,s boots, and clamps plus they are usually WARRANTED FOR LIFE AKA Duralast & Cardone (got mine from NAPA) for $78.00 U.S......also no messy grease packing required. Always check the boot clamps and re-tighten if necessary....in many instances they will slide off if grease is on the clamp. I always drive the car for ten minutes after assembly to seat the bearings then check to see if a re-tork is necessary for the outside bolt /nut. Always clean the flange bolt holes thoroughly with brake clean to get rid of sand and grit...... If you are going to keep your car for several hundred K miles do not use the locktite on the flange bolts as if you have to do this job again in the future the inside of the flange bolt holes can strip. Some of his tork specs were given in ft/lbs vs; ntn/meters.
Rebuilt oem axels are always better then autozone or napa garbage aftermarket axels are terrible
Raxles rebuilds OEM and doesn't grind them down. Good quality except the boots only lasted 3yrs or about 35000 mi. Not necessarily their fault though.
12:30 there are 3 types of these bolts: 24mm twelve-point head bolt with ribbing and without ribbing, also 17mm hex bolt without ribbing, only that one with ribbing is torqued to 70Nm + 90 degrees other 200Nm and 180 degrees.
In lieu of a hammer and drift, I found you can thread the old axle bolt all the way in until it pulls the joint off the axle. Just be sure that it's threaded in as square to the axle as possible.
What do you mean by that last sentence? I’m having a very difficult time trying to remove the knuckle. The very first thing I’ve tried was what you just said and didn’t work for me. I screwed it in as much as possible to the point where it would spin the axle in the vice no matter how tight I made it. I’m trying this guy’s method now as we speak but I don’t have one of those brass punch things and don’t want to accidentally damage anything.... S.O.S!!😭
@@ksprague1994 I mean the joint and its bolt should be in a straight line with the axle and the joint isn't flopped over to one side. Sorry it's not working for you. I first tried the method in this video using a hammer and old socket extension and it didn't work.
Shouldn't you do the final 90° of the center bolt, after lowering the car on its wheels?
you guys got a new customer! Thanks
Thank you so much for this video! INFORMATIVE.. I've replaced cv joints without disconnecting control arm (or other suspension related components) on Honda's but wasnt sure about my '07 GTI. Rear tires have lasted 3 years, fronts just over a year, so im hoping the alignment stays 'preem' (fingers crossed). I am ridiculously fond of this car, but on a low budget. I hope both my CV's come out as smooth as that. Done like a pro, very nice work :-)
They're an easy car to fall in love with for sure! We'll keep our fingers crossed your repair goes smoothly!
What are you doing with the washer? I cant see. There is a plastic, and an other washer in the kit. The only thing i didn't know, how to put on the washers
What's the torque spec for the bolts on the outter boot to the wheel? I think that got skipped in the reinstallation. Or at least I don't think that part was filmed.
Thanks for the knowledge.
Very informative esp the clamps here in botswana those are rear
Glad you found it informative, Dennis!
Now I know why the dealer wants just over $400 to fix this on my GTI.😕
Nice, very nice! I have to do this job on an auto and have no clue how to rotate the road wheel/axle to access all the inner 10mm star bolts - any suggestion welcome...
Stick the car in neutral, and rotate the axel using the screwdriver in the disc technique then undo, rotate using the screwdriver and repeat.
Thanks for the vid and torque specs! So no need to lube the male axle shaft with anti seize or a little grease?
awesome video, well explained
90° is done after putting the wheel.
You dont like your FCP Euro shirt? Send it to me 😁. Thanks
So the socket for the axle bolt is 12 point 24mm - just to make sure again ? The original one on my Rabbit is 27 mm hex but the dealership don't carry this one anymore its superseded with the one that you installed . And something else that I don't get - the purpose of the bolt is to hold the axle and set the bearing . Why so big difference in the torque - 70N/m +90 degree vs 200N/m + 180 degree ?
Thanks for the video Jay, I just did this or trying to do . Everything well like a butter until I tried to pull the cv joint of the axle. Its just not going at all, I tried tapping it, using the axle bolt by treading it all the way in but nothing. Any other options that I can try to get it off?
They can be a bit stubborn! Try spraying it down with penetrating lubricant and keep tapping it with the hammer!
@@fcpeuro Yeah they can it took some dirty talking to it LOL,and almost 40 minutes but I did get it off.Thanks
Thanks i need it this if i dont have a torque to torque the nuts or the wheels will i still be ok ? If i do em by hand??
I go to tape the joint off and actually I’m hitting it as hard as I can and it doesn’t budge
Can this be done for the inner cv boot too?
Different way to secure it, it'll have a clip holding it on rather than whacking the end of it off the shaft like an outer.
Yes it can just different circlip
Do these axles need clocking or rephrasing?
If the boot isn't torn but the inner clip has come loose and the grease has fallen out, can you just pack it full of grease agin and close it back up?
Hi Ethan, totally worth a shot as long as no dirt or debris has contaminated the CV joint!
Hey thank you so much!
Mine has some noise when I turn the wheel while driving slowly and vibration if I go fast 90 mph ...
Hi, mine does that too, did happen to fix your problem en was it this problem??
Surely just changing the axle is significantly easier
12:30 I was under the impression that if the axle bolt (CV joint to wheel hub bolt) is ribbed, then it's 70 Nm + 90°, otherwise it's 200 Nm + 180°--no matter hex or 12 point. Is this correct? Thank you!
yes. you are correct...
I ordered a gkn boot and it's like hard plastic. Hardly any give to it seems like it would break instantly I don't even want to put it on.
Please be sure to reach out to our team via email at Service@fcpeuro.com.
Me too, for my FWD Tiguan. It is almost impossible to get it onto the axle shaft! There are a couple of "humps" on the axle, and the small end of the plastic boot has virtually no flexibility, and will NOT stretch to slide over the two axle bumps. Obviously, that's the advantage of the rubber boots. I was able to pull off the plastic boot, insert the tips of a pair of right-angle pliers into the inside of the the small end of the boot, and pull the pliers open with all my strength, rotate the boot and repeat, until the small end expanded enough to get over the the axle humps. So I was able to get the boot installed after a great deal of effort and frustration, but then the new washer included in the boot kit was too small, and I couldn't get it onto the splined axle shaft. I had to fall back and use the old one instead. Then, after all that, the circlip was so thick and rigid, that it has so far been impossible to hammer the CV joint back onto the axle splines. It appears that the circlip will not compress and allow the CV joint to slide over it. Super frustrated!
Is if im im buying a new axel this isnt a hard job lol
That grease will get on you one way or another and it will NEVER come out of your clothes.
So you can remove the whole cv axle without oil leaking from the transmision ?
Yessir, But the plate can fall off and the bearrings can fall out. Just tap it loose or get it loose before pulling on it and popping that plate off and having to do extra work.
do you have a link or part number for the axle center bolts, and the hub/inner joint bolts?
Hi, good to know of this tutorial,have a question? My car is a vw rabbit 2008 5speed stick shift, and the link says it doesn't fit to my car, there is not a kit for my type of car? Thank you in advice.
Here are some kits for your car: www.fcpeuro.com/Volkswagen-parts/Rabbit/CV-Joint/?year=2008&m=1&e=2041&t=6&b=8&d=1034,1035&v=
Get rid of your camera man.. Can`t see anything..
90° is done after putting the wheel.