Brother 3550 with you in the car that's actually pretty light compare to most cars today especially for old school big body like that. Good job I love this build!!
@@fastvsix I need to loose 50 myself I'd be so happy bro got older and fatter, I need to go on a diet. Bro I love uour car. How much power is it making?
To be honest, I had it on the dyno when I first got it together just to shake it down but it was in really low boost and didn't make much. If you do the times and weight, it's like 950 hp or so
Nice G Body Sir....My first car was a 86 with a 307. Since then I've owned several G bodys. Someday I will build my dream Regal. I always wanted to manual swap one with a M22 or Tremec 6speed. I'm on board love the content...
For the rear? They are from trick chassis. They have all that on their website. The coil over springs are summit racing brand. They are about $50 each. I switch between three different sizes. Usually I use 12" 110lb springs in the rear and have them compressed about 6-7". The stored energy aids in seperation
Are the 110 lbs springs in the back stiff enough? That seems a little light for the weight of the car. I'm building a street car where I will have people in the back sometimes and once in a while hit the track. What would you recomend for that situation? I could have up to 3 people in the back sometimes for street use.
I have three different springs I run. I use the 110# 12" when I am not running weight in the trunk. They are compressed to about 5", giving me 7" of stored energy to help with seperation. For normal street driving, I use either 130# 12" or 150# 10" springs. The 110# ones aren't the best for comfortable street driving.
Depends what the use is for. For drag racing that might be stiff. For regular driving or autocross that might be good. Also depends on how tall the springs you are using. When I have mine setup for the track, there is only 1" of suspension travel downwards. I set it up so the rear of the car raises up (seperates) 3"
@@fastvsix ok cool thanks, I only ask because my buddies g body seems to not have any separation. But I haven't plotted the 4 link yet to see what the antisquat is. Next time im around the car I will. I definitely think we need adjustable arms to get some antisquat into the car to go faster
@@95poo40sx I dont get caught up anymore in plotting them. Usually it'll only seperate until the top bar is level. So, if you have the rearend on the ground, you can jack up the body until the top bar is flat, that'll will usually be your max seperation. If the the top bar is already flat at ride height, you are really going to struggle to get any seperation
Very nice job on your car and video like to see more thanks for sharing
I can’t wait to get beefy with my suspension…. Nice build
thanks!
Brother 3550 with you in the car that's actually pretty light compare to most cars today especially for old school big body like that. Good job I love this build!!
Thanks. There is about 300 lbs that can be lost somewhat easily, plus I could lose 50 myself lol
@@fastvsix I need to loose 50 myself I'd be so happy bro got older and fatter, I need to go on a diet. Bro I love uour car. How much power is it making?
To be honest, I had it on the dyno when I first got it together just to shake it down but it was in really low boost and didn't make much. If you do the times and weight, it's like 950 hp or so
@@fastvsix yes it is
Wow!... What a Car. Thanks for Sharing
Man 8sec is dawn pretty good with 31 spline axle l like 👍 👍👍
Nice Regal
New subscriber,I like your videos man thanks for sharing…
Love the car. Looking forward to the cage info.
I will do one soon, been busy with work
Nice G Body Sir....My first car was a 86 with a 307. Since then I've owned several G bodys. Someday I will build my dream Regal. I always wanted to manual swap one with a M22 or Tremec 6speed. I'm on board love the content...
That would be awesome with a manual. I got a 86 Cutlass too that was a 307, has a 355 in it now.
Looks great
New subscriber awesome build wanted to ask if you will be doing a video on your fuel system?Or if not can you say what fuel pumps you use?
Yeah I will try to get one done here for you this weekend
What size front tires are you running?
Hey bud what backspace are your 10" wheels? Thank you. Love the car and vids!!
Thanks!
They are 15x10 with a 4.5" backspace. But.... The rearend has been narrowed 1" on both sides.
How does the 325 gear do with daily driving or around town driving I would like to drive to the track and back or to the car meet and cruise.
Looking for possible part #s for the coil over springs and adjustable perches
For the rear? They are from trick chassis. They have all that on their website. The coil over springs are summit racing brand. They are about $50 each. I switch between three different sizes. Usually I use 12" 110lb springs in the rear and have them compressed about 6-7". The stored energy aids in seperation
@fastvsix okok...that's whats up. Thanks man. What is the size and offset of the rear rims you're running and what's the sizing on the rear tire?
So...how many cup holders does that thing have? I also think you need more decals if you are ever going to win a bracket race.
What ball joints did you use? Do you have a part number? Thanks
My TT 6.0 cutlass is 3050 with me and I weight 140 so without me 2910 roughly
Are the 110 lbs springs in the back stiff enough? That seems a little light for the weight of the car. I'm building a street car where I will have people in the back sometimes and once in a while hit the track. What would you recomend for that situation? I could have up to 3 people in the back sometimes for street use.
I have three different springs I run. I use the 110# 12" when I am not running weight in the trunk. They are compressed to about 5", giving me 7" of stored energy to help with seperation. For normal street driving, I use either 130# 12" or 150# 10" springs. The 110# ones aren't the best for comfortable street driving.
QA1 tech support recommended 200 lbs springs for the rear. I will be lowering the car around 3". what you think?@@fastvsix
Depends what the use is for. For drag racing that might be stiff. For regular driving or autocross that might be good. Also depends on how tall the springs you are using. When I have mine setup for the track, there is only 1" of suspension travel downwards. I set it up so the rear of the car raises up (seperates) 3"
👍💯🏁
What offset on the rear wheels?
It's a 15x10 4.5 bs. But the rearend is 1" shorter on each side.
I see your feeling froggy about running hard tire. Get you sum and grab a lane next year.
That is the plan!
How does some of that stuff even pass inspection? I am not so afraid to break 8's after watching the video.
Like what? Besides a chute, window net, and sfi balancer, what isn't legal?
Before you did the adjustable arms did you have any antisquat or would it just squat?
Always had the adjustable arms on this car
@@fastvsix ok cool thanks, I only ask because my buddies g body seems to not have any separation. But I haven't plotted the 4 link yet to see what the antisquat is. Next time im around the car I will. I definitely think we need adjustable arms to get some antisquat into the car to go faster
@@95poo40sx I dont get caught up anymore in plotting them. Usually it'll only seperate until the top bar is level. So, if you have the rearend on the ground, you can jack up the body until the top bar is flat, that'll will usually be your max seperation. If the the top bar is already flat at ride height, you are really going to struggle to get any seperation
Hi do you have a email or contact info I'm building the same car and I have some questions
Send me a message here and I can get you my email or phone