Roughing Bit | Best Bit for Pocketing | CNC Router Bits
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The Serrated Rougher is an under appreciated bit in the CNC world. This bit is extremely good for pocketing and cutting material quickly and effectively. This Rougher bit is known for hogging material and cutting at an high feedrate. By using this bit for first pass profiles and pocketing, you can reduce friction and increase spindle life.
About Cuttin It Close:
Founded in 2020 Cuttin It Close is the educational platform of Drapela Works we look to provide value and insight on various wood related projects and techniques. Through training videos, CNC router techniques, unique projects, and practical applications, we hope to share our knowledge in the woodworking field and CNC routering.
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This is helpful for a guy like me, as would any other deep dives into a particular bit
Nice job in explaining how the bit actually works. I personally am interested in learning more about the other bits that can be used with the CNC.
Great videos. You even try and consider those of us with lesser kit. Guess we all start somewhere. Thankyou for sharing your knowledge and experience, it's invaluable to many of us.
I actually got an endmill set from my neighbour that he didnt use much and it had roughing bits betwenn 2,4mm and 1mm. They go very easy on my small wood cnc but at those sizes the ripples are also very small. I will try out your advica and use the 2.4mm ones for pocketing instead of the 1/8" straight cutting bits I usually use. Great video :D
FYI, IDC Woodcraft has a 1/4" rougher called the beast for smaller CNC's.
Great explanation! Totally agree that roughers are under-appreciated. Roughers also typically have a much larger cutting surface area, which is a big part of why they last longer.
Great point!
Shout out from Maine. Just got my first rougher 1/2" dia DC from Vortex. Looking to plow through some 1.25" mahogany on my 10hp shop sabre. Keep up the good work.
That’s awesome, what feedrate and depth you running that at?
@cutting-it-close ran conservative at 450x15500 only .375 doc. Long skinny parts on a deadline so didn't want any surprises. I liked what I saw so looking forward to using it more with some deeper passes.
I've used vortex for years absolutely love them. Just about two years ago switched to Amana Extreme Spectra. I never tried a rougher so I don't know if that's an option, but as far as finishers go unbelievable. I do mostly sheet goods and the life is incredible compared to Vortex. I don't know what the blue coating is but I can tell you that 40 sheets later and still razer sharp.
I have a small CNC that will only take up to a 1/4" shank bit. I have used "corn cob" or "corn cutter" bits in 1/8" shank bits for roughing with excellent success. Looking at your roughing/serrated bits, I believe the corn cob bits are very similar in function.
I wish I can run that fast lol (understand you have a way more expensive and beefier machine than I do). I have a shapeoko xxl but hoping to upgrade to a better machine in the next couple years. This is just a hobby for me. Great video and explanation.
Same here. I'm still trying to figure out the limits for the Shapeoko. His other video on "Calculating Feeds and Speeds" was very useful for me. I had been runing the machine too slow and burning bits. I increased the speed while reducing the router RPM and that made things better. So far, I've been at 80 ipm, 3/16" DOC, with a 2-flute 1/4" downcut bit on hardwood, at 10,000 RPM.
in the future when you talk about specific tools can you please offer a link to the tool/bit you reference in the video..? please/thank you.
Hi Sir, thanks for this video.
Maybe something about Rapid Clearance Gap and Machining Allowance and also cutting strategy?
There are a lot sophisticated datils in this fields machining.
Thanks in advance.
Regards
Could you make a video on the 10 bits to own when starting out? Thanks. Very informative, also agree you should put a link to the bits your talking about in the description. Maybe a affiliate link so you make some money or free product.
Seems this bit would be good for 3d roughing passes since your going to come back with a finishing ballnose anyway.
Where do you buy roughers? Amazon doesnt have any for wood
Hey when pocketing in wood with a straight line flute downcut I'm getting circle marks on the corners and line marks of the bit on the face of the pocket which is causing me to sand them down which is very time-consuming. My pocket is only about 4 to 6mm deep. Am I doing something wrong here? Have you got any answers to this issue. The bit I'm using is 5mm in diameter. I'm running it at 12000rpm at 1400fro with chipload of 0.2mm. Cheers
Here would be a good analogy: it's the difference between cutting a frozen ham with a smooth blade versus a serrated blade.
Congratulations on your videos, they are very informative and knowledgeable. Can I add something if you are talking about tools, tool life, and feed speed? I notice that ( still) very often collet chucks are used. When it comes to important production quantities, speed becomes very important. Faster milling places more demands on the tool and optimum operation becomes necessary. A collet chuck has run-out tolerances of up to 0.06 mm. This does not seem much, but ensures that, for example, with a two-piece tool, only one edge works in full. In turn, this causes vibrations and leads to tool breakage. In order to counter this, a more precise clamping system is needed. You achieve that with ao. shrinkage systems (heat or polygonal) or with the now somewhat less used ( and expensive) hydro systems.
The concentricity is increased to 0.004mm. Both cuts work fully, the tool runs smoother with less vibration, feed can be increased and the risk of breakage is significantly reduced. The workpiece finish is much better.
Something to Consider?
Those long strands when pocketing is because the stepover is too big.. if you have a 1/2” bit with a 7/16 stepover, only 1/4” is turning into chips the the stuff on the other half of the bit is peeling off as a strand..
For pocketing in strand prone material, try a stepover distance that’s a little less than the radius of the bit.. or, with a .375” bit, stepover .18”
Do you need a glass of water?
You kept referencing to as straight cutter instead of non serrated spiral. Slow down or you will start confusing the novice. I know what you were trying to say.
These were exactly my thoughts. Both are spiral bits - no straight bits shown in the video.