Thank you, Paul! Your you explained straight to the point and I needed that. I just got into CNC and I was really having a hard time to figure out all of this. With your info I was finally able to cut both plywood and mdf correctly today
Just as it's supposed to be explained for a brief understanding to continue having fun, if you encounter issues with your cuts. Just yesterday got 1.1kW 12-18k rpm spindle ready for some action.
Viewed the video for ply tips, but the feed rate stuff was much more interesting. I really enjoyed the format, quick and to the point with all the important bits pointed out. Liked, subscribed 👍
Hello, may i add sommething? With a RPM of 12000 rpm and a 8 mm tool, the cutting speed is dramatically low, resulting in poor quality. (cutting speed = the speed at which a cut cuts through the material, not the feed speed). The ideal cutting speed for plywood is between 40-65 m / sec. Therefore, the smaller the router diameter, the higher the RPM should be. Whether you can achieve that ideal cutting speed depends on the limitations of the machine. Modern professional machines can sometimes handle up to 30,000 rpm. If you keep that same rule in mind, it is sometimes better to work with 1 flute than with 2 because of the possible limitation of the feed speed. After all, the quality of the operation mainly depends on the cutting speed. The tolerance of the clamping with old collets is also quite important and, for example, a 2 flute router only works mainly 1. Collets should be replaced approximately every 6 months when used intensively. Keep to the safety rules. Best regards.
Although much time has passed, I am curious how do you get the value range 40-60 m/sec. For instance if my spindle speed = 12000rpm and tool diameter = 8 mm, then the surface speed (or cutting speed) = Pi*8mm*12000rpm/60sec = 5 m/sec. So, sould I increas rpm 10 times to reach this value rage? It's out of my spindle range. Or I misunderstand what you have written
This value is the theoreticall value and with such a small diameter difficult to reach. Choose the max rpm to come as near as possible. We have to live with it. Or choose a larger tool diameter. Best regards.
And by the way, if you use a 1/8" downcut, you wont need any tabs at all, the sawdust left in the groove will hold everything firm without tabs at all.
I would have personally rearranged that formula to have the RPM on the left and to use the feed rate on the right. The machine's feed rate is generally more limited than the spindle speed so you can set feed rate to be about 70-80% of the machine's max feed rate in that formula and find out what the RPM should be.
What about down cut to break the top layer, then up cut to follow through? I want a side wall finish that has minimum sanding. Should I change the up cut to a straight cut?
i'd avoid upcut entirely if possible, but if you did want to use it id make sure youve cut through at least 3-5mm of plywood before running along an upcut bit. I think the wall finish is more determined by feedrate and end mill sharpness
www.cnccookbook.com/g-wizard-feeds-speeds-calculator-mill/ honestly, i dont think you need it, and I don't use it much anymore. I just start slow with average speeds for wood and then increase or decrease within mach3
I need a cnc machine for straight through plywood cuts and making simple holes. I'm on a budget but would like to cut 48" wide sheets. Any advice for a value priced machine? Thank you.
@@ThisDesignedThat Hi, thank you for getting back to me. No, I'm not really handy in building anything with precision (though I can glue and assemble.. I'd like to spend under $3K but really haven't a clue as to what to look for. I'd basically be using a cnc to cut all the panel's and pre-drill holes for screws and entrance for wooden honeybee swarm boxes (for resale) but my wood cutting skills are poor and after ruining about 5 sheets of 1/2" plywood I know I need something that its programmed and up and running that it will cut perfectly straight each and every time. I was thinking a panel saw but could use a cnc to do some pre-drill etc. How do these work on 1/2" ply? Any thoughts about what I'm trying to accomplish? Thank you for getting back to me I've been chasing my tail the last couple days. Be well. Take care.
Thank you, Paul! Your you explained straight to the point and I needed that. I just got into CNC and I was really having a hard time to figure out all of this. With your info I was finally able to cut both plywood and mdf correctly today
glad to help!
Thank you. That was an excellent video. Very helpful
Glad you enjoyed it!
Good work with the recipe, thx for the tips. Good luck with your machining.
What great video. Cheers
Just as it's supposed to be explained for a brief understanding to continue having fun, if you encounter issues with your cuts. Just yesterday got 1.1kW 12-18k rpm spindle ready for some action.
Viewed the video for ply tips, but the feed rate stuff was much more interesting. I really enjoyed the format, quick and to the point with all the important bits pointed out. Liked, subscribed 👍
thanks :)
Good stuff thanks.
No problem!
Hello, may i add sommething? With a RPM of 12000 rpm and a 8 mm tool, the cutting speed is dramatically low, resulting in poor quality. (cutting speed = the speed at which a cut cuts through the material, not the feed speed). The ideal cutting speed for plywood is between 40-65 m / sec. Therefore, the smaller the router diameter, the higher the RPM should be. Whether you can achieve that ideal cutting speed depends on the limitations of the machine. Modern professional machines can sometimes handle up to 30,000 rpm. If you keep that same rule in mind, it is sometimes better to work with 1 flute than with 2 because of the possible limitation of the feed speed. After all, the quality of the operation mainly depends on the cutting speed. The tolerance of the clamping with old collets is also quite important and, for example, a 2 flute router only works mainly 1. Collets should be replaced approximately every 6 months when used intensively. Keep to the safety rules. Best regards.
Eratum, m/min is wrong should be m/ sec for the cutting speed. Sorry.
Hi Dick thankyou so much for taking the time to explain this. 1 flute is a must for most hobby machines I agree.
Although much time has passed, I am curious how do you get the value range 40-60 m/sec. For instance if my spindle speed = 12000rpm and tool diameter = 8 mm, then the surface speed (or cutting speed) = Pi*8mm*12000rpm/60sec = 5 m/sec. So, sould I increas rpm 10 times to reach this value rage? It's out of my spindle range. Or I misunderstand what you have written
This value is the theoreticall value and with such a small diameter difficult to reach. Choose the max rpm to come as near as possible. We have to live with it. Or choose a larger tool diameter.
Best regards.
And by the way, if you use a 1/8" downcut, you wont need any tabs at all, the sawdust left in the groove will hold everything firm without tabs at all.
Clear, succinct, and understandable. Thanks for the referral to G Wizzard.
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome way of teaching.... Plz spread your knowledge with us... Like subscribed ❤️❤️❤️
if possible to make video about stepover and step down and plunge etc .. thanks for this great information
I would have personally rearranged that formula to have the RPM on the left and to use the feed rate on the right.
The machine's feed rate is generally more limited than the spindle speed so you can set feed rate to be about 70-80% of the machine's max feed rate in that formula and find out what the RPM should be.
What about down cut to break the top layer, then up cut to follow through?
I want a side wall finish that has minimum sanding. Should I change the up cut to a straight cut?
i'd avoid upcut entirely if possible, but if you did want to use it id make sure youve cut through at least 3-5mm of plywood before running along an upcut bit. I think the wall finish is more determined by feedrate and end mill sharpness
You mention a tool called G-Wizard, but doesnt link to it in the description?
www.cnccookbook.com/g-wizard-feeds-speeds-calculator-mill/
honestly, i dont think you need it, and I don't use it much anymore. I just start slow with average speeds for wood and then increase or decrease within mach3
@@ThisDesignedThat Ah ok, thank you very much :)
I need a cnc machine for straight through plywood cuts and making simple holes. I'm on a budget but would like to cut 48" wide sheets. Any advice for a value priced machine? Thank you.
Hi Noel whats your budget and are you willing to build the cnc yourself?
@@ThisDesignedThat Hi, thank you for getting back to me. No, I'm not really handy in building anything with precision (though I can glue and assemble.. I'd like to spend under $3K but really haven't a clue as to what to look for. I'd basically be using a cnc to cut all the panel's and pre-drill holes for screws and entrance for wooden honeybee swarm boxes (for resale) but my wood cutting skills are poor and after ruining about 5 sheets of 1/2" plywood I know I need something that its programmed and up and running that it will cut perfectly straight each and every time. I was thinking a panel saw but could use a cnc to do some pre-drill etc. How do these work on 1/2" ply? Any thoughts about what I'm trying to accomplish? Thank you for getting back to me I've been chasing my tail the last couple days. Be well. Take care.
Either a longmill 2.5 48inch or a altmill are top notch priced for the machine you get. Theyre made by sienci.
Ty
A flute is the number of edges you have on a bit?
Yes, the cutting edge count
at the moment my cnc feedrate is limited to 500mm/min, deem i cant imagine it to move 10times faster :D
I'm sure you can find awesome woodworking plans on Stodoys
What is the temp u print pla at and what bed temp plase
I disagree 100% , downcut bit, or compression bit ONLY.
each to their own :)