Comparison of 4 different CNC endmill router bits
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 เม.ย. 2017
- The chip out of some CNC router bits was annoying, so i ordered some different types and made this test.
The candidates:
1.) straight cut router bit
2.) up cut router bit
3.) down cut router bit
4.) up/down cut router bit
Like standard router bits for handheld machines, the straight cut type seems to work great on my CNC.
All four router bits are from aliexpress-Seller "CNC Cheap Store":
straight cut:
de.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-4...
down cut:
de.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-3...
up-/down cut:
de.aliexpress.com/item/2pcs-U...
upcut:
de.aliexpress.com/item/Free-S... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![[Eng Sub] "คิม พรประภา" นักสะสมรถหายาก ระดับโลก !!!! EP.134 | What the fast](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Kcr-0Kup20g/mqdefault.jpg)
good video, however I would have liked it without the music. Hearing how the bit cuts I think is beneficial too.
Wow, what a difference. I'm going to look at some straight cut router bits. Thanx for the demo.
For the "up/down cut bit' the first pass depth must be deeper than the "Up Cut" section of the bit.
One of the best videos I have seen so far, professional and very objective : )
Thanks for this Video. I had the same problem on the oak wood and this really helped me!
For my experienced of 7yrs working on cnc.. every bits has different kind of works itself..
Different programming set up,speed,materials to use,rpm..
*straight cut- cleaning offset
*up cut - cutting woods/mdf
*down cut - cutting woods/mdf,,cleaning offset
*up/down cut - cutting apc material,acrylic plastic,aluminum material,pvc sheet..(recommended this material for single flute up/down cut)
*up cut ballnose - only for 3D works also for cutting.
Excuse my ignorance what do you mean by cleaning offset?
@@Theplayers_club 2nd pass? (fine) I guess...
Could you also let us know your speeds/feeds and depth of cuts? Would be very helpful! Thx for making it!
Great video and well done. Next time, in order to reduce the flicker on screen, change your frame rate to 60fps. Some lights tend to cause video flicker at certain frame rates.
Best way to used a up cut .
Mirror the drawing and reverse :)
And but your materiel face to mdf
Great test, any chance to do the same cut path on acrylic? My best experience is with a single flute upcut
I wish I could give this one two thumbs-up. Great video, bro.
Your video helped me a lot! Thanks my friend!
Multiplex is not the nicest material to cut clean in once. Straight cut is the best all arounder, since it's is at a relative ideal angle for the directions of both layers. The up/down cutter benefits from it's cutting angles when the bit makes 1 pass for total depth, where the lower part should be cutting up and the highest part is cutting down. (the way you use it, it acts like an up cutting bit. When passing at total depth at once, it minimizes defects at the top and bottom finish (on paper ideal for W400 multiplex ). Chips are compressed as well, not always good for cooling the bit :)
Thanks Berend for your very good explanations. As you mentioned, the Up/Down Cutter is ideal for a one pass cut, as shown in my "Special Test" at the end of the Clip.
What is the best bit for clean cutting of hardwood like narra wood with different depth?
Man , you are here what a co- incidence.
That music though
James Dean that’s an iMovie stock backing tune.
Hahaha
Is it music, or simple the bits rasping over a mirror? Cut it out, please.
REALLY annoying music.
Thanks for this video!! 👍🏻
Great video! stated the scenario and straight to the testing!
the music was taxing, like being on hold with bank of america
Fantastic test. Thanks for sharing, will change my thinking. Now to Amazon... :-)
Brilliant demo thanks.
So the conclusion, from the way that the plywood looks is that straight cut and up/down cut work the best? The up cut and down cut still work but not well for plywood.
Great video. I am using double edged straight HQMaster 6mm diameter and 22mm working area. I have been doing tests on my cnc, but I have not been able to get the result yet. Could you share the parameters you used with the straight cut. Thank you very much.
Why were the walls of the spiral bits jagged and the straight flute bit so smooth? Not the top edge but down in the cut. I would think that the shear action of a spiral would give you a better wall finish. Great video!
Extremely envious of your CNC. Might pick one up next year. That said, the upcut is actually really good if you are clearing a lot of material, but need the bottom of the cut really clean. It gets a bad rap from folks using it to cut a single line, or intricate patterns of single lines. Great video, thanks!
They work great on roughing passes for me
Thanks - a good comparison. Would have been interesting though to see the result of the straight cutter doing a single pass where it cut through the bottom - although if the top side was clean, the bottom side would probably be the same.
if you need more answer, pls add my whatsup/wechat: 008613075365628
Interesting video. I think the up cut bit is meant to be used with special materials, like plexiglass.
what are the spindle speeds and rates?
Nice comparison, Speed and Feed?
Would you be able to do another video and use the same bits in plexiglass and see how that turns out?
Awesome video! I was having the same problem with tearout on walnut wood and this really helped me out! One question though, is the 4mm straight flute router bit able to make 4mm holes? I heard some straight flute router bits cannot plunge greater than 1.5mm (1/32").
Seoyeon Kitowski if you look at the bottom(tip) of the bit if cutters meet at center of the bit it will, if they don’t it wouldn’t be able because nothing is there to cut center of the hole
Which one will be suitable for uPVC routing...????? thanks in advance!!!!
Wow.. this video is so useful. i have straight cut router bit HQMASTER brand. 6mm diameter, 22mm working length. I'm triying to make cuts on MDF but I have not found the correct parameters for the cut. Smoke always comes out. Could you share the parameters you used to cut that wood with the straight tool? Thank you very much.
Thanks for this video very informative for beginners.Thumbs Up!
Sir what about the single flute endmills......????
The flat dual flute looks the best to me.... but this is on plywood.... what about hard woods? I know the compression is out of the question for hard woods, but I’m having trouble where if I’m carving something, the bottom shows streaks of where the bit has passed.... I think I’m using a down cut.... and I’d like to minimize sanding in the deeper part of the cut
Thank you!
Good video. THANKS
Which would be best for cutting through 3in of soft yellow pine, my router is a variable speed from 8000rpm to 26000rpm an my current bit is a 3in long double flute straight cut but it will not bite into the wood am I using the wrong bit
Nice test 👍 like it
Thanks for the video. New to this CNC and I liked it very much thank you. Where did you purchase the bits if i might ask.
Best regards
T.Robertsen
I got all four routerbits from aliexpress. The shop is named "CNC cheap".
pls add my whatsup/wechat:008613075365628
Thanks for this Video. +Josef Senti, commented me a link, because he saw that i have the same issue, when i use an up-cut-mill.
if you need more answer, pls add my whatsup/wechat: 008613075365628
The straight bit has the cleanest walls, do you have any tips on how to get clean walls on deep passes (40mm plus)?
Excellent comparison. Solves my problem. No need expensive psychiatry any more. Cheers.
What are the speeds and feeds for the video?
What type of CNC do you use? and Did you build it yourself.
what router do u use ?
thanks for this video
great video. Ty
You should try composite endmills
Obrigado por o video.
Thank you for video
Thanks so much best video ever
The video is great provide one can tough out the music.
Thankyou!
There are some manufacturers who are specialized making CNC router tools for each material. Try "corn teeth" for plywood and other composite materials ;)
I'm new tp CNC milling of woods. I spent about 10 years doing everything from rough carpentry and framing, to finish carpentry (some very high end, very fine work), to cabinetry and furniture making.
After a detour through biotech, I found my niche in CNC machining of metals. Over about 12 years, with a 2 year Machine Tool Technics technical college program, I went from machine operator, to setups and editing code, to leadman, to programming, to process optimization, to process engineering and management, to finally running the whole shop (both production department and manufacturing engineering department).
So, I'm capable of learning and understanding this.
Have you tested other cutter designs, such as carbide end mills used for metals or multi-purpose cutting, carbide end mills used for non-ferrous machining, inserted end mills (similar concept to a Shelix -Byrd cutterhead), cutters design for wood that were not bought at bottom of the barrel vendors?
Just as the overall shape of the cutter effects the results you get, things like the material the cutter is made from, any coatings that are applied to the cutter, the flute shape, the edge prep of the cutter, of course the speed and feed at which the cutter is used, as well as the tool path itself, can all have significant and drastic effects on the results you get.
The material you use in this test, how different is this material from cutting softer woods like pine, or cutting harder woods like Purpleheart or Ebony, or a figured hardwood like Tiger Maple or a figured Red Heart or Bloodwood?
I find surprisingly little information regarding efficient milling of woods, as compared to the amount of information on cutting metals, and I am trying to find a good source for reliable, accurate, and thoroughly researched and tested information. Any ideas where I can find resources?
I agree with you 100% why the major metal cutter manufacturers not even considering making bits for at least the vey dense hardwoods, We all know that dense hardwoods dull ALL the best brand bits fairly quickly, If you can find any info on these I really appreciate you post it. Mariano Gil.
@@marianogilglz9049 UPDATE:
I have spoken with two local, smaller, carbide tooling grind shops, and though I am no closer to a source of vast and thoroughly researched, and verified, cutting data, I did get some results regarding locating top quality carbide tooling focused on cutting hardwoods, figured woods, and possibly some non-ferrous materials, specifically those which respond best to cutters with sharp cutting edges and a high positive rake angle.
One is an independent business, grinding several of their own lines of carbide tooling, like end mills (similar to an up-cutting router bit, which, btw we in a machine shop do not refer to end mills, drills, or profile cutters, as, "bits," so you may get confused looks asking to get them to grind you a "bit"), drills, boring cutters, reamers, and custom profile cutters.
The other is a business which distributes tooling for several global tooling manufacturers, primarily the Widia brand (which is, for many products, comparable, or close to it, to my preferred brands, like Sandvik, or Walter, and often superior to Ingersoll, Seco, Kennametal, Kyocera, Tungaloy, Iscar, or Sumitomo), and they also have in-house grinding of several lines of their own carbide cutting tools, just like I mentioned for the other company.
I have had very good success not only using their custom round cutting tools, but more importantly, getting them to listen to, and be very responsive to, my results, and my suggestions, requests, and or recommendations, for how we may want to modify the cutting tools, for improved performance.
In the past I have worked with them on numerous projects, and they have worked with me on testing products, providing me with test tools, where I can real-world-application test these tools, provide them the cutting data, resultant data, how the tools were used, often providing them video and audio of the tools in use.
I may be entering into a similar working relationship, not quite a partnership, using their tools in my shop, providing them data and results, and working together to develop better tools, and more applicable, and readily available, cutting data recommendations for a wide variety of exotic and domestic, difficult to machine, Hardwoods, figured Hardwoods, and in a variety of cutting applications.
To begin with, I will add updates to this thread, and as soon as we find a good, reliable, and affordable, website creator we will be posting videos on our website, and almost ready to start TH-cam channel, of all of the test tooling going through the shop testing.
I will be sure to keep you, and anyone else interested, well informed.
Both businesses were very interested in exploring the opportunity to be expanding into a potentially very wide open, and very lucrative, new, and largely untapped, marketplace. The second business, the distributor of several brands of manufactured tooling, is also going to be in contact with at least one of their suppliers to gauge their interest in entering into this marketplace as well.
I have, since going to school for entry into the machine Tool Technics arena, been fascinated with, and compelled to, a focus on optimization of every aspect of my work. To make everything I was doing perform faster, more stable, more reliable, more accurately and precisely, to reduce scrap, to reduce waste of every kind, to reduce OOT (out of tolerance) results, to increase tool life while increasing productivity and efficiency, and above all, improve safety. So this opportunity, bring technology I have come to respect, to apply enthusiastically, to understand its benefits especially in relation to ROI, into an industry that has only recently dipped its metaphorical toe into the water of (an exaggeration I know, but you get the point) is thrilling to me. But understand that I will not be rushing into this, and I will not be rushing into publishing or posting results, and data. and especially not recommendations, without being very thorough in my approach, and my analysis of any results that come of this, and I have made sure that the tooling grinders/vendors are on the same page with me.
I hope you're all having a great summer and look forward to getting back online and sharing some knowledge experiences. Take care.
@@Metalbass10000 Really appreciate your time and comments, if we do not get excited about what we do in life or work then what is the point, it is excellent not to rush, agree 100%, if you want to excel on what you do there is no other way than hard work, I am positive that you will succeed on what you pursue, and I can guarantee that there is plenty of people that loves to work on wood that will be very, very interested on seeing something that can last "forever" so people can focus on the craft not in maintaining the tools. If those beautiful trees were sacrificed the least that we can do is to honor them and do the best work to the limit of our abilities. Very good luck and keep us posted.
Just goes to show that just because you can make it, doesn't make it necessary. The straight cut did as good of a job (if not slightly better) than the down cut, and for the amount that the up/down is going to cost extra, us it really THAT much better of a job done?
which should be good for 775 motor to cut 3mm acrylic
pls add my whatsup/wechat:008613075365628
I came across your TH-cam site a couple weeks ago and must admit, I am impressed. We have a CNC router and are looking to get into cutting 3D. Totally new here to cutting like this. We have a 5x10 router and program with EnRoute. I have attached a few pics the owner of our company is interested in. Most of our product will be cut out of hardwood. Can you give me a little insight into tooling? We have typ. router bits, .04 & .02 engraving and I just ordered 1/4" to 1/8" & 1/4 to 1/16" tapered ballnose bits. Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated.
great, now I'm only two weeks over my due date
It's really nice video. Does anyone know europe suppliers for CNC bits?
www.vhf.de/ is a german one, there are several
cnc supplier, plrease add my wechat/whatsup: 008613075365628
The only problem with this video is you do not explain that you actually use the up/down-cut bit wrong in the first part and do a second test where it is used correctly. Most people will not watch the entire clip. Check your analytics and see how many stop watching after you show them the 4 first cuts. These people walk away with the wrong idea.
Other than that, great that you did the second test!
Someone needs to make tapered and ball end straight cut bits.
I wish there wasn't any music so we could hear the difference in sound the bits make
speeds, depth per pass and rpm?
Speed: 1000 mm/minDepth per pass: 2,5 mm (Special test 6mm)RPM: 15.000
Thank!! :)
music?
Straight cutting but always wins😜.
I don't know about CNC but looks like testing all 4 bits with the same rotary and moving speed isn't a real test.
I mean every bit has it's own parameters to get the right result I'm right ?
DJ
Far as i know the calculation is only done with bit diameter, number of flutes and RPM, all of these would have the same parameters-ish, and wood is very forgiving
What is the name of the song you used?
Awesome comparison thank you very much.
PS. Please do not ever play the same song over and over for the entire video ever again!
this is how to win the war without words 🔥
Up-Down Bit = Compression Bit??
Straight cut router bits always win ;)
cool
Good demo video but the music was annoying.
So.. based on this video, the upcut bit does a horrible job.. but it must exist for some reason.. Do you have a followup to this that might explain what each tool is meant to be used for?
From my very basic experience and a bit logical thinking i would say:
Down cut: clean topside, not good to make deep cuts because material is pushed to the bottom, so could get stuck
Up cut: To make deep cuts or for hard materials, material is pushed to the surface so no material get's stuck in the hole.
Down/Up cut: to go trough material in one go (Clean up and bottom finish i think), + I would say only good for softer materials.
Straight cut: Great finish but I think it's only good for wood and plastics, not metals.
Good bagi pemula kayak saya buat referensi trim semoga bermanfaat
good for beginners hopefully useful
I could have condensed it into a 30 sec video. Or 3 photos.
Not deep enough to demosntrate effectiveness of compression bit.
You using the compression bit in the wrong way
Horrible music and too loud
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Other than watching some router bits make a 1/4” deep circle and a dado cut in Baltic plywood the video did little teaching. A little narration would have possibly helped
Look at something better than this.
Great video, HORRIBLE music. Can you not just talk during the demo and explain what's happening? Sheesh!
Woodglut has very good designs and plans.
review not full without corn teeth bits
like everyone, we wonder.....uhhh, "which bit did you use for 1,23, and 4? What size shank? Diameter? Brand" -Jeesh. It's like me posting a video playing the guitar, comparing string sounds and failing to mention the guitar, gauges and brand of strings. Don't respond that I should use the description button. If you inject text into your videos...... especially with comparison... type the F-in text in of "what" you are comparing. you just wasted 6 minutes of my life.