Okay, so I lose sometimes when I buy Cheap Range Rovers, but I ALWAYS Win when I play War Thunder 💥 wtplay.link/samcrac - Download War Thunder for FREE and get your bonus!
Just buy the cheap ones and test them out to make sure the tranny is good. If it works then get the OEM solenoids and put them on. You could easily clean up the truck and flip it for more than you spent if you don't want to keep it.
I had a similar issue with my 2007 chevy silverado (it was also stuck in 3rd gear). I brought the truck to several places and ask them to replace the solenoids. Every single place I went to (7) said no. Most transmission shops don't want to touch a vehicle unless there is $2,500 or more involved! I even told a couple of places I would sign a waiver and they still said no. I didn't want to do it myself because I don't have a lift and hate working on my back but I sucked it up and did it. This was 18 months ago and haven't had an issue since. Note: You technically just have to change 1 solenoid but change all 4 UNLESS you are flipping the vehicle. If that's the case then just replace the bad solenoid with a refurb or cheap knock-off. My final bill for 4 solenoids, filter, gasket, and tranny fluid was $290.00.
I ran in to a similar issue just recently when I was trying to get some new to me brake calipers rebuilt. Every shop I called was just like "we don't rebuild them but we'll replace them for you" 🤦♂
The parts cannon seems to be the common tool of the vast majority of mechanics, these days. Just make sure they are using genuine parts, should you go their root, since many might try using the cheap parts and charge for genuine.
I tried to repair an automatic gearbox on a nissan pathfinder. Sorted a broken solid track in wiring but could only get 2nd hand solenoids. Worked great for a short while before a catastrophic failure.
Go for the cheap ones. If it fixes it, then you know what the problem is. Then you can keep it in the back of your mind that one day you might need to buy the OEM ones. Or check the resistance of all of them and just replace the one which is out of spec.
And this car with it's investment is the best test object for such useful things. They won't destroy the transmission if they're crap they might just fail and have to be changed again.
this. and it also speaks to what @ecaparts talks about. circuit test the solenoid as close to the trans as possible. if it checks good you know you have bad wiring. if it checks bad, you at least not it's a solenoid... it could still be the wiring.
The trans has a CIRCUIT fault. Basicly, the transmission computer found an open circuit for the shift solenoid and that could be anywhere in that circuit (including the wiring, connectors or the solenoid itself). Since it may not always be the solenoid, I would look into troubleshooting this a little further. If the transmission computer is inside the trans, there may be a conductor plate (which is a rigid wiring harness for all the electrical components within). Good Luck, Sam!
These are ZF transmissions like the the rest of the European cars. They are like the Delco or Mopar of Europe. We even use them in Dodge vehicles.(owned by Daimler-Benz.) I hate working on Euro.Wiring because it is so bad. But this is your best bet except for swapping cheap imported parts. Good luck, Sam.
This is Scott from California. You can inspect and test each solenoid valve with an ommeter. You can apply 12 V to them and see if they operate. The transmission control module can be tested also by checking all the positive battery feeds and the negative feeds to the module. Don't buy stuff that you don't need! I know you know! I'm just trying to help. Don't pull the trigger on a parts cannon!
I’ve been through this repair on many ZF transmissions. The “reman” solenoids are just used units with new o-rings. I’ve tried them in a 6hp19 and they sucked, sent back and used brand new ZF solenoids and shifted smooth. Worth buying the real zf set, they aren’t that expensive. Also worth buying a Zip Kit and separator plate so you can replace the accumulator pistons and upgrade to springs instead of the rubber nub that flattens out in a few years. It will shift significantly nicer with the gear accumulator springs replaced. Every 100k+ ZF6HP or 150k+ ZF8HP that hasn’t been serviced will need this stuff replaced. Use lifeguard fluid or liquid moly fluid only in these trans. They are very picky. Good luck!
It’s a shot here, but do you know anyone who specializes in zf and might be able to get me some parts for an 05 zf6 that gm no longer makes? Need some under cabin linkage and would like a new trans-tcase housing on the trans as it is repaired.
The problem with the cheap ones is that if it doesn't work after replacing them you always wonder if it is the transmission that is bad or if the refurbished solenoids are just crap and didn't work correctly to begin with... Edit: And if you decide to buy a "new" transmission after that you might've wasted all that money because the old transmission was OK.
@@Samcrac I would rather look at it from a different perspective. I would put the cheap ones and see if it works and there are no other hidden issues. If it does, then maybe put the proper ones. You have double work of course, but might be saving money.
As entertaining as it is to point and laugh, the most impressive thing here is Sam has any hope left for the brand! No matter how many times life kicks him in the nonos, he always gets right back up every time to try again. Truly inspiring Sam and definitely keep it up!
I had a very similar thing happen to mine… after 188K “relatively” trouble free miles - it started to slam gears then would not go into 3rd (but would manually jump to 4th). I was going to do a whole valve assembly swap ($1,200-$1,700 for the whole bottom tray) then learned that bunches of re-programming would be involved (dealer only). Let it sit for 6 months, now the passenger door won’t open, and after replacing the battery - it will not start, I don’t even hear the solenoid click. So I bought a 4Runner 😂. Still love my RR!
Hi Sam. I would go for the cheap option since you are not sure if that would actually fix your problem. If it does then drive it till the cheap ones give up and then go for the more expensive option. Love your videos.
@@ianbeale2527 I think that's sort of the spirit of the channel though, right? Buy cheap, then get it back on the road with tinfoil and steel wire if necessary. Makes for good youtube :). But I did have the same hesitation as @jerehada - you don't know what you're getting from China, especially "refurb", although bench testing the solenoids bought from China is easily part of a good/fun video to watch! I'm kinda surprised he didn't pull out the existing ones to bench test first tho tbh.
@@RuggeroSB Yeah, Samcrac should bench test the original solenoids first. Also gives him more content to show.... :-) Or else he is just throwing parts at a problem while being blindfolded ;-)
@@RuggeroSB No, I get that from a content perspective I'm just looking at it from a personal view. As a kid, I always used to buy the cheapest parts I could to keep my Land Rovers going. I was always having to make repairs in my spare time to keep me on the road. Apart from a false economy, replacing cheap parts over and over, at least it taught me how to work on my cars , 🤣so what I lost in bad components and cash, I gained in knowledge and saved in garage labour costs. Well that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it !
I bought a full size supercharged Range Rover new in '06. I had it until 2020. 275,000 miles. Not too bad on mechanical issues. 4 air suspension bags failed (always the front). 2 radiators, one alternator and one starter. The transmission would shift loudly sometimes. I'd replace the fluid and it would go back to smooth shifting.
Pretty common issue on those ZF trans and not a terrible job. ZF does recommend changing the fluid at 100k miles. Those 4.4 Jag engines are the best Engine LR ever used I’d fix it, but I’m also a sucker for lost causes.
I'd spend the 300 bucks, but only if i could confirm that this is indeed the problem. Having this Range Rover in good, running order for a bag of sand (a grand) is well worth it and if it works, you won't have to rip it apart again because you fitted cheap chineseum parts. I'd call that a win-win.
I think you can't lose. I would choose the cheap fix using cheap parts and not use brand new oem ones. I fixed a 2006 Mustang transmission with a cheap remanufactured valvebody and solenoid pack. Works great. Save your money for other projects and either keep this one when you fix it or sell it for a ton of profit.
Go for the cheap ones because like you said, there might be other issues with the trans. You can always upgrade them in the future, or if you flip it, then its not your problem!
I had the valve body repaired on my 05 LR3 with the 4.4. Great engine, my symptom was clunking between gear shift. Tried the fluid/filter swap but a no go. After the valve body job it’s been solid for 50k so far. Other than coil and plugs, and several other minor mechanical issues you can expect with a 200k plus SUV it’s been a solid ride. Can’t wait to see you handle the job!
If it were in worse condition, i'd go with the cheap ones. But with this one, which seems to have been taken care of, i'd go with the OEM ones. Some cleaning and a bit of luck, this will make someone a nice vehicle.
I would remove the valve body first and air check the clutches through the fluid passages that the valve body connect to with compressed air. If all clutches air check normally, you’d be safe to continue with the cheap solenoid replacement. Can’t hurt 🤷🏼♂️
I would have put the 300 dollar solenoid for the way the car looks like its been upkept I think its worth it plus the purchase was only 700 bucks its already a steal without a blown headgasket
If it were my car, i’d go the route of replacing the solenoids with OEM new, new fluid and filter, and see where it gets you. If it shifts but still feels a bit funny, I would then try another fluid drain and fill. Beyond that, is it worth putting a $2,500 trans in it? Probably, but only if you are able to do it yourself/with some buddies, and assuming that all of your other digging around on it shows no other major issues. 100% just my opinion though! It looks very clean body wise, has nice options on the inside, and you’re right, they really are built well.
I have the ZF 8 speed transmission and I changed the fluid and pan at 70,000 miles. Soon after, my 2 to 3 shifts were very hard. Unusual for this transmission, well apparently it was covered under my extended warranty. They said they replaced the entire valve body. It has been fine ever since and it now has 130,000 miles
Those 2006-2009 range rovers are amazing. Not too difficult to maintain and very reliable. Mine had 210k and ran and drove amazing. A lot of TH-camrs show the older 03-05 and the newer 2010-2012 ones which are much much more unreliable and expensive to keep going. Glad you showed off this model of Range Rover as its very overlooked by everyone.
Its so funny to be warry of good things on auction cars, haha. "Good oil? Not good" "Clean interior? Hmmm" "Starts and sounds good? Weird" Then there is, "Good A/C? Worth the price" 😂😅
I did Chinese solenoids twice then two new ones. The time it took to drain and refill 3 times, all the gaskets and screws, I wish it bought new solenoids. But for the budget, if I had no money I would have done it the same way
@@SamcracI replaced the solenoids in my RR with the zf 6hp26. While researching it I found a few people who said they had problems with the Chinese ones. Also, they take expensive oil so you don’t want to be dropping it multiple times. Before spending on a set of new ones from ZF you can pull the old ones and bench test them, you check the ohms and vacuum test them. Also clean out the passages where they go in the valve body, there’s pistons in some of them that can get stuck too. But it could just be a broken seal between valve body and transmission, the square ones can split and the hose type ones seem to shrink over time. There’s some good videos on TH-cam showing how to rebuild the whole valve body which I followed and made it drive like new. Saved myself thousands.
The issue is that they clone the parts by taking measurements and then replicating it, but they almost never factor in the shrinkage from curing as they are in a hurry. So all of these cheap parts are slightly out of spec my a tenth of a mm in every dimension. Usually that's not a problem for something like an alternator or water pump. But for solenoids, a huge headache awaits.
I bought 'new' solenoids from china for a nissan. Couldn't get anywhere else. Both times they were full of dirty fluid and damaged. I assume they were used and just fitted with new seals. I also had to buy a set for a CVT just to get the one I needed for an automatic.
I had a LR once. Very nice vehicles! Super dependable. We took a family vacation from North Texas way down south to the coast. Can you believe it only broke down twice?!! Once halfway there. And once while we were at our destination. The constant oil leaks kept the body and chassis lubricated! I loved my f¥@£!?$ LR!
A utube car reviewer here, showed the land rover owners maintenance history, in a big manilla folder, it was a huge sheaf of many, many seperate serious issues work done. 200 pages. But the thrill was the dealership replaced the same exact very expensive parts multiple times ? And laughing said , most was still initially warranty covered, but now after warranty expired, the same mechanical problems continued.
Spend cheap, spend twice. Stick to the good solenoids because you'll waste $50 dollars and either give up when the cheap ones fail or go with the more expensive option second time around.
Take out all of them, put power to each one and find the defective one, then test if it's burned out (shorted) or just stuck and fixable (have some sort of resistance, though i have no clue what the ohm should be, but it should match the others resistance). Solenoids in general is a super simple device and something you should be able to fix without paying for a new one.
I guess it depends how difficult it is to replace the solenoids. If it's easy, go for the cheap set. See if it works. Might get lucky. If it is difficult, then you will kick yourself if the cheap ones don't fix it. You won't know for sure unless you install the proper parts.
People pay to get rid of them because they cost so much to keep them running. A woman tried to sell an ‘02 to my wife for $25,000. It was 3 years old and had extremely low miles. Her neighbor told me that car was in the shop more than it was in the driveway. I put the $25K down on an XC 90. Dodged a HUGE bullet!
Uncle Sam, I just did one of these. Dont waste any time on the solenoids. Your clutches are burnt to a crisp. All friction material is gone and burnt fluid makes a good adhesive. As a result the solenoids are unable to actuate the clutch packs and therefore showing up as a solenoid stuck open/close depending on the default config. And now because your trans speed sensors do not match the override is leaving it in 3rd. You can fix this. The clutch pack is right up front (the top) and the issue will be obvious. The clutch baskets are easy to undo. This job requires long ridgid flat heads. Pry bars are good but they often require work at the tip so they can fit. Once the trans is off take a look before you buy a used tranny. Apart from removing the valve body to access the Trans, you wont have to touch the valve body. 3rd party rebuild kit is $200-300 and comes with all orings, seals, steels and frictions. You wont need them all. Video everything. Bearings and races will fall out and orientation is king. Awesome find. Good luck.
Absolutely DON’T do the cheap fix! There should be a law that ANYTIME a major part is replaced, the man doing it must put down his name on a permanent record, or be guilty of a misdemeanor!
the mind set of big shops/dealers, is that you have more insurance on the repair selling/ installing a new/reman unit, sure you can fix the valve body or whatever, but everything attached to that valve body is now your liability ,and if anything happens after that, the customer can and will assume it was the mechanics repair that caused this issue "the ever since" club , and as a result they will demand it be repaired for free. It's not worth the headache.
People truly have no idea just how insanely reliable the AJ V8 truly is. Besides, it's backed by a ZF 6HP. Both indestructible. Point is stay away from any Rover with a 5.0 or BMW powerplant. Long live the AJ.
Nice Rover. If I was spending my money to fix it, I would by the rebuilt solenoids. If there is an underlying issue, you won't be throwing away extra money if the rebuilt soleoids are damaged as a result. Find the underlying issue and fix it before instaling new solenoids or even another rebuilt set.
Samcrac... I wouldn't take a Range Rover if you actually paid me $700. The only vehicles a half crippled ex-mechanic like me ever wants to own anymore all have VIN's that start with J! - and I only have two rules for buying a car: NO German/Italian/British/Korean junk and NO detroit iron -
well you now have the best Rover they made. Jeremy Clarkson and Harry's Garage still own them and there is a whole video of them explaining why. This one Sam is worth keeping and maintaining!
That said, it IS the SUV equivalent of a Ferrari in that they expect people with enough money to throw 5K or 10K at a time at it to keep it running. If you are afraid of the repair bills you simply shouldn't buy one.
I had a Jeep GC that, according to the dealer, needed a new transmission. Based on the error codes, I first replaced the shift solenoid ($150) that didn't fix it. I then replaced the shift solenoid sensor ($150), that fixed it.
Definitely get the zf solenoids. If you have a problem with the cheap ones its going to be $400 just to open up the trans again, diagnose, new fluid, nevermind replacing anything.
If you can't get the engine running swap an LS and 6L80E into it. Deal with the wiring and getting the BCM to communicate and you have a reliable luxury SUV that's runs like we all wish they would.
I talked to an old car dealer who had been in the business all his life. He said "All I ever found at auction was another man's trash". He only bought from individuals.
I now repair faulty solenoids, split them and resoldered the connection inside which breaks. On my old L322 4.4 V8 I just replaced one solenoid with a reconditioned one from Fullfat RR UK forum for £20, that was four years ago and the old girl is still going strong. I don't think these old gals are for your average motorist unless they have deep pockets for dealer and "specialist" prices. It is "don't fix, replace" in UK now. A friend was told by two garages that his car was not economically worth fixing as the turbo and fuel pump had failed.... two minutes later I refitted a vacuum line back on and car was fixed, ironically it probably came off when the garage serviced the car? You don't make money with two minute fixes!
You really should find which solenoid is faulty before you play parts darts, then only buy OEM (you'll be guaranteed that they will work), but it may be the wiring harness or the gearbox ECU which is why you need to test to pinpoint the fault.
Hi Sam. THis happened to my Merc. After sitting in the garage for 6 months after l bought it, the transmission went into limp mode due to a failing main battery. Fitted a new battery and reset the transmission with a scanner and VOILA! All done.
Range Rover's constant problem the gearbox although I had a 98 2.5 BMW turbo diesel, never had a problem with it & loved it to bits. What a workhorse it was, brilliant.
$700 is pocket change for a plaything/project. Nothing lost (potential profit) if you lose interest and decide to sell on - even if for parts. Chinese $47 gamble is one worth taking... If it shifts out of 3rd gear, even for a day, you've found the problem and can decide whether it's worth doing a proper job. I currently have a couple of L322's and love them despite their many shortcomings!
I would rather buy solenoids from an auto wrecker than gamble on made in China merchandise. You may find the fault to be a connector, or contamination of the solenoid due to a failed seal, and a simple clean may solve the issue. All in all I think you did very well. Enjoyed the video, thank you. Keep entertaining us.
I recommend the same thing for every land rover: LS SWAP IT. It can be done dirt cheap, can program the correct vin, and will make that part of it bulletproof.
If it is a ZF box (as many are), a pretty easy fix if you repair auto transmissions. They do suffer from shaft bush wear, but I missed if you mentioned how many miles it had on it. I would only put a brand new set of OEM solenoids in it but have used the reman chinese versions successfully and I would put a Sonnax zip kit in it as well if you can get one. This means you will need to split the mechatronic valve body and put in a new seperator gasket, but it is very worthwhile. You should see tiny flecks of copper (non-magnetic) in your oil if the bushes are gone. Durabond have bush sets, and the bush install tool sets are cheap. Gary Ferraro of AAA-1 on YT has done these boxes for your guidance.
Since it’s your money I would get the more expensive solenoids. I have spent time and effort working on an automatic transmission and I wouldn’t want to save a few bucks and then do it twice.
Sam Check the fuse box , I had a similar issue on my 2007 Jaguar XK which uses the same 4.2 v8. I had been swapping around fuses to fix an electrical fault and a similar issue occurred to me, it wouldn't shift . Turns out I had forgotten to put a fuse back in and replacing it fixed it immediately. This powertrain is incredibly reliable, just make sure to change the trans fluid once in a while.
One thing you tubers fail to point out Sam, is that you are buying a premium vehicle on the cheap. Unfortunately, you still have to pay premium prices for the repairs. It goes with the vehicle hourly shop rates at the garage. Also, it is a way for the manufacturers to maximise their profits. I used to drive the 3 litre V6 XF. Got rid of it due to the expensive running costs.
About the Range Rover and the solenoid. To further investigate to discover what solenoid has failed I would use a multimeter set on the resistance range. On a low resistance range possible first. A solenoid is an electromechanical device. It has a coil of wire that has two connections. By placing the probes of the multimeter on the electrical contacts (one could be the body or earth) you should measure a very low resistance. Some resistance but not open circuit. That's a no no. It it's open circuit you have discovered a fault. All the solenoid should conduct and if the same or similar on each gear you can expect the same or very similar resistance. Suspect anything way different than the others. Just compare the resistance measurement. The mechanical part of the solenoid can not move or seize up. That's not detectable with a multimeter and it will cause the transmission not to shift gears. Only spend what you have to and get the solenoid you need. Let me know how you get on. Mike (Australia)
Recipe for the best, most reliable Range Rover. LS swap, painless harness and Holley ECU. Rovers look so nice, but British engineering and wiring are an unending PITA.
I bought a supercharged 2007 last spring with the same mileage on it. There is no reason the transmission should be trash, You have the ZF tranny. Change the solenoid and change all the fluids, transfer case and diffs. This thing should be good for another 100k.
I bought an alternator and wiper motor from a very well known website that has "all the parts your call will ever need"- Both parts were bad! Like reman rejects thrown back on to the sales floor. No more cheap electric parts for me, I encourage you to do the same.
I dated a girl in college who dropped a coffee in the center console of her RR. They wanted $700 to replace the interior of the console. The jawn was always in the shop... My grandfather also tested one for a week or so but instead opted for a Sequoia with all the bells and whistles. That Sequoia is still rolling today well over 350000 miles with every single option still working. Range Rover probably RIP sumwhere
Yet when you buy a brand new one, the "Drive off the lot depreciation" taxes, fees, add-ons, destination charges, etc... financially totals even the brand new one. So, no win...
I have the same transmission in my 2005 Bmw 645ci. I replaced the solenoids with remanufactured ones from china and I've been driving it for 4 years now no issues! No reason to spend money on new ones.
Here in the UK there is a BIG problem with Range Rovers and Land Rovers Discovery being stolen in London into the hundreds per week, where as if you buy one now new or second hand the insurance company will not insure you (you have to have insurance in the UK). JLR are aware of this since March and are recalling the cars. The theives somehow log in to the transponder and make their own key then they are cut up as the money is in South Africa is in the running gear.
So… ZF 6HP26? Buy the OE solenoids, don’t forget the ‘circuit board’ (can’t remember the correct name for that part, it’s sandwiched in between the two valve body halfs). Cheap stuff can arrive not working or not correctly, causing the same problem you’re trying to fix and throw you off. And if it works, you can upsell it as a car with a refurbished transmission.
Wow! RR's scare me but .... in this case I think I would go for the new OEM solenoids, truck mite actually have a few thousand more miles left in it till the next thing fails. What about ancillary equip? Brakes etc? Potential other "cost" items.
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Okay, so I lose sometimes when I buy Cheap Range Rovers, but I ALWAYS Win when I play War Thunder 💥 wtplay.link/samcrac - Download War Thunder for FREE and get your bonus!
Why don't you replace those air suspensions with the regular systems??
The definition of insanity...
heil
Just buy the cheap ones and test them out to make sure the tranny is good. If it works then get the OEM solenoids and put them on. You could easily clean up the truck and flip it for more than you spent if you don't want to keep it.
LOL, these things were POS when they were new.
I had a similar issue with my 2007 chevy silverado (it was also stuck in 3rd gear). I brought the truck to several places and ask them to replace the solenoids. Every single place I went to (7) said no. Most transmission shops don't want to touch a vehicle unless there is $2,500 or more involved! I even told a couple of places I would sign a waiver and they still said no.
I didn't want to do it myself because I don't have a lift and hate working on my back but I sucked it up and did it. This was 18 months ago and haven't had an issue since. Note: You technically just have to change 1 solenoid but change all 4 UNLESS you are flipping the vehicle. If that's the case then just replace the bad solenoid with a refurb or cheap knock-off.
My final bill for 4 solenoids, filter, gasket, and tranny fluid was $290.00.
I ran in to a similar issue just recently when I was trying to get some new to me brake calipers rebuilt. Every shop I called was just like "we don't rebuild them but we'll replace them for you" 🤦♂
The parts cannon seems to be the common tool of the vast majority of mechanics, these days. Just make sure they are using genuine parts, should you go their root, since many might try using the cheap parts and charge for genuine.
Good job sir
I tried to repair an automatic gearbox on a nissan pathfinder. Sorted a broken solid track in wiring but could only get 2nd hand solenoids. Worked great for a short while before a catastrophic failure.
Best post of the thread 👍👏👏👏
This love hate relationship with Land Rovers is killing you, Sam. Stop it, get some help.
Go for the cheap ones. If it fixes it, then you know what the problem is. Then you can keep it in the back of your mind that one day you might need to buy the OEM ones. Or check the resistance of all of them and just replace the one which is out of spec.
And this car with it's investment is the best test object for such useful things.
They won't destroy the transmission if they're crap they might just fail and have to be changed again.
this. and it also speaks to what @ecaparts talks about.
circuit test the solenoid as close to the trans as possible. if it checks good you know you have bad wiring. if it checks bad, you at least not it's a solenoid... it could still be the wiring.
Plenty of space for cars in that field behind Sam’s house.
Yep just test the cheap ones and then upgrade or resell it
I don't know, if the Chineses ones suck you may think the gear box is the culprit even when it isn't.
The trans has a CIRCUIT fault. Basicly, the transmission computer found an open circuit for the shift solenoid and that could be anywhere in that circuit (including the wiring, connectors or the solenoid itself). Since it may not always be the solenoid, I would look into troubleshooting this a little further. If the transmission computer is inside the trans, there may be a conductor plate (which is a rigid wiring harness for all the electrical components within). Good Luck, Sam!
These are ZF transmissions like the the rest of the European cars. They are like the Delco or Mopar of Europe. We even use them in Dodge vehicles.(owned by Daimler-Benz.) I hate working on Euro.Wiring because it is so bad. But this is your best bet except for swapping cheap imported parts. Good luck, Sam.
This is Scott from California. You can inspect and test each solenoid valve with an ommeter. You can apply 12 V to them and see if they operate. The transmission control module can be tested also by checking all the positive battery feeds and the negative feeds to the module. Don't buy stuff that you don't need! I know you know! I'm just trying to help. Don't pull the trigger on a parts cannon!
Exactly!!
I’ve been through this repair on many ZF transmissions. The “reman” solenoids are just used units with new o-rings. I’ve tried them in a 6hp19 and they sucked, sent back and used brand new ZF solenoids and shifted smooth. Worth buying the real zf set, they aren’t that expensive. Also worth buying a Zip Kit and separator plate so you can replace the accumulator pistons and upgrade to springs instead of the rubber nub that flattens out in a few years. It will shift significantly nicer with the gear accumulator springs replaced. Every 100k+ ZF6HP or 150k+ ZF8HP that hasn’t been serviced will need this stuff replaced. Use lifeguard fluid or liquid moly fluid only in these trans. They are very picky. Good luck!
It’s a shot here, but do you know anyone who specializes in zf and might be able to get me some parts for an 05 zf6 that gm no longer makes? Need some under cabin linkage and would like a new trans-tcase housing on the trans as it is repaired.
I repaired my L322's 6hp26 with the ZIP kit and I couldn't be happier with the results, also replaced de VB bridge with an aluminum one.
What’s wrong with using Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle?
It's never over with a Rover
Under or Over? (most won't get this Airplane! reference)
The problem with the cheap ones is that if it doesn't work after replacing them you always wonder if it is the transmission that is bad or if the refurbished solenoids are just crap and didn't work correctly to begin with...
Edit: And if you decide to buy a "new" transmission after that you might've wasted all that money because the old transmission was OK.
agree
@@Samcrac Why not bench test the original solenoids first before buying new ones?
Catch 22
@@Samcrac I would rather look at it from a different perspective. I would put the cheap ones and see if it works and there are no other hidden issues. If it does, then maybe put the proper ones. You have double work of course, but might be saving money.
testing a solonoid prior to installation isn't rocketscience...
As entertaining as it is to point and laugh, the most impressive thing here is Sam has any hope left for the brand!
No matter how many times life kicks him in the nonos, he always gets right back up every time to try again. Truly inspiring Sam and definitely keep it up!
Or is it the definition of madness haha
@@Jerram89 It might be the same brand, but it's not the same thing because he keeps trying a different approach.
I had a very similar thing happen to mine… after 188K “relatively” trouble free miles - it started to slam gears then would not go into 3rd (but would manually jump to 4th). I was going to do a whole valve assembly swap ($1,200-$1,700 for the whole bottom tray) then learned that bunches of re-programming would be involved (dealer only). Let it sit for 6 months, now the passenger door won’t open, and after replacing the battery - it will not start, I don’t even hear the solenoid click. So I bought a 4Runner 😂. Still love my RR!
Hi Sam. I would go for the cheap option since you are not sure if that would actually fix your problem. If it does then drive it till the cheap ones give up and then go for the more expensive option. Love your videos.
Unless cheap Ines don’t work 😜
So basically, buy cheap, buy twice.
@@ianbeale2527 I think that's sort of the spirit of the channel though, right? Buy cheap, then get it back on the road with tinfoil and steel wire if necessary. Makes for good youtube :). But I did have the same hesitation as @jerehada - you don't know what you're getting from China, especially "refurb", although bench testing the solenoids bought from China is easily part of a good/fun video to watch! I'm kinda surprised he didn't pull out the existing ones to bench test first tho tbh.
@@RuggeroSB Yeah, Samcrac should bench test the original solenoids first. Also gives him more content to show.... :-) Or else he is just throwing parts at a problem while being blindfolded ;-)
@@RuggeroSB No, I get that from a content perspective
I'm just looking at it from a personal view.
As a kid, I always used to buy the cheapest parts I could to keep my Land Rovers going. I was always having to make repairs in my spare time to keep me on the road. Apart from a false economy, replacing cheap parts over and over, at least it taught me how to work on my cars , 🤣so what I lost in bad components and cash, I gained in knowledge and saved in garage labour costs.
Well that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it !
I bought a full size supercharged Range Rover new in '06. I had it until 2020. 275,000 miles. Not too bad on mechanical issues. 4 air suspension bags failed (always the front). 2 radiators, one alternator and one starter. The transmission would shift loudly sometimes. I'd replace the fluid and it would go back to smooth shifting.
I know it is hard to believe, but it seems like Sam finally found a good deal on a Rover!
All it took was a low enough price
If only actual Rovers had been sold in the US. They only got a few Stirlings, and the 75 never reached US shores at all...
clickbait video
It’s not a rover
Pretty common issue on those ZF trans and not a terrible job. ZF does recommend changing the fluid at 100k miles. Those 4.4 Jag engines are the best Engine LR ever used I’d fix it, but I’m also a sucker for lost causes.
They come down the assembly line with the check engine lite on
I'd spend the 300 bucks, but only if i could confirm that this is indeed the problem.
Having this Range Rover in good, running order for a bag of sand (a grand) is well worth it and if it works, you won't have to rip it apart again because you fitted cheap chineseum parts.
I'd call that a win-win.
shit, i'd say any running car under a grand is worth it even if it starts rodknocking 2 days later.
I think you can't lose. I would choose the cheap fix using cheap parts and not use brand new oem ones. I fixed a 2006 Mustang transmission with a cheap remanufactured valvebody and solenoid pack. Works great. Save your money for other projects and either keep this one when you fix it or sell it for a ton of profit.
Go for the cheap ones because like you said, there might be other issues with the trans. You can always upgrade them in the future, or if you flip it, then its not your problem!
Since you like these Range Rovers so much, why not considering a LS swap? You could finally have a RR that you could use as daily.
The title of that video would be "spending $7,000 to improve my $700 Range Rover"
@@Samcracyeah...and?!?
MAKE IT HAPPEN!!!
yeah ls swap everything it'll make having it easier dumbass
@@Samcrac But wouldn't be surprise with the LS swap it would devalue less too.
Classic LS Swap guy
I had the valve body repaired on my 05 LR3 with the 4.4. Great engine, my symptom was clunking between gear shift. Tried the fluid/filter swap but a no go. After the valve body job it’s been solid for 50k so far. Other than coil and plugs, and several other minor mechanical issues you can expect with a 200k plus SUV it’s been a solid ride. Can’t wait to see you handle the job!
If it were in worse condition, i'd go with the cheap ones. But with this one, which seems to have been taken care of, i'd go with the OEM ones. Some cleaning and a bit of luck, this will make someone a nice vehicle.
The 4.4 jaguar range rovers are pretty darn reliable. The ZF in them as well don’t generally leak either.
I would remove the valve body first and air check the clutches through the fluid passages that the valve body connect to with compressed air. If all clutches air check normally, you’d be safe to continue with the cheap solenoid replacement. Can’t hurt 🤷🏼♂️
Sam, go with OEM. You should probably test the original solenoids to make sure that’s the problem.
You need to test the solenoids individually and change the ones that are needed. If that fixes it change the whole set if you are keeping the Rover.
I would have put the 300 dollar solenoid for the way the car looks like its been upkept I think its worth it plus the purchase was only 700 bucks its already a steal without a blown headgasket
*...and if it blows you already know how to fix it for $300 lol.*
i’d use the cheap solenoids to see if it fixes the issue first
Samcrac buying range rovers over and over reminds me of the girl that keeps going back to her abusive boyfriend.
If it were my car, i’d go the route of replacing the solenoids with OEM new, new fluid and filter, and see where it gets you. If it shifts but still feels a bit funny, I would then try another fluid drain and fill. Beyond that, is it worth putting a $2,500 trans in it? Probably, but only if you are able to do it yourself/with some buddies, and assuming that all of your other digging around on it shows no other major issues. 100% just my opinion though! It looks very clean body wise, has nice options on the inside, and you’re right, they really are built well.
I have the ZF 8 speed transmission and I changed the fluid and pan at 70,000 miles. Soon after, my 2 to 3 shifts were very hard. Unusual for this transmission, well apparently it was covered under my extended warranty. They said they replaced the entire valve body. It has been fine ever since and it now has 130,000 miles
I'd take out the solenoids and bench test them, maybe they're gummed up and you can fix them
Those 2006-2009 range rovers are amazing. Not too difficult to maintain and very reliable. Mine had 210k and ran and drove amazing. A lot of TH-camrs show the older 03-05 and the newer 2010-2012 ones which are much much more unreliable and expensive to keep going. Glad you showed off this model of Range Rover as its very overlooked by everyone.
Pick your feet up when you walk
Its so funny to be warry of good things on auction cars, haha.
"Good oil? Not good"
"Clean interior? Hmmm"
"Starts and sounds good? Weird"
Then there is,
"Good A/C? Worth the price" 😂😅
I did Chinese solenoids twice then two new ones. The time it took to drain and refill 3 times, all the gaskets and screws, I wish it bought new solenoids. But for the budget, if I had no money I would have done it the same way
I'm glad to have heard from someone whos attempted it with the ones from China!
@@SamcracI replaced the solenoids in my RR with the zf 6hp26. While researching it I found a few people who said they had problems with the Chinese ones. Also, they take expensive oil so you don’t want to be dropping it multiple times. Before spending on a set of new ones from ZF you can pull the old ones and bench test them, you check the ohms and vacuum test them. Also clean out the passages where they go in the valve body, there’s pistons in some of them that can get stuck too. But it could just be a broken seal between valve body and transmission, the square ones can split and the hose type ones seem to shrink over time. There’s some good videos on TH-cam showing how to rebuild the whole valve body which I followed and made it drive like new. Saved myself thousands.
@@Samcracyou bought this one at copart? Or from a new auction place?
The issue is that they clone the parts by taking measurements and then replicating it, but they almost never factor in the shrinkage from curing as they are in a hurry. So all of these cheap parts are slightly out of spec my a tenth of a mm in every dimension. Usually that's not a problem for something like an alternator or water pump. But for solenoids, a huge headache awaits.
I bought 'new' solenoids from china for a nissan. Couldn't get anywhere else. Both times they were full of dirty fluid and damaged. I assume they were used and just fitted with new seals. I also had to buy a set for a CVT just to get the one I needed for an automatic.
I had a LR once. Very nice vehicles! Super dependable. We took a family vacation from North Texas way down south to the coast. Can you believe it only broke down twice?!! Once halfway there. And once while we were at our destination. The constant oil leaks kept the body and chassis lubricated! I loved my f¥@£!?$ LR!
Time to bring out the block tester again…
A utube car reviewer here, showed the land rover owners maintenance history, in a big manilla folder, it was a huge sheaf of many, many seperate serious issues work done. 200 pages. But the thrill was the dealership replaced the same exact very expensive parts multiple times ? And laughing said , most was still initially warranty covered, but now after warranty expired, the same mechanical problems continued.
If I were going to th trouble of dropping the trans pan and replacing fluid, 300 for the valves is not so bad.
Spend cheap, spend twice. Stick to the good solenoids because you'll waste $50 dollars and either give up when the cheap ones fail or go with the more expensive option second time around.
Samcrac fixing a RangeRover is the most Samcrackiest thing ever 😅
Take out all of them, put power to each one and find the defective one, then test if it's burned out (shorted) or just stuck and fixable (have some sort of resistance, though i have no clue what the ohm should be, but it should match the others resistance). Solenoids in general is a super simple device and something you should be able to fix without paying for a new one.
I guess it depends how difficult it is to replace the solenoids. If it's easy, go for the cheap set. See if it works. Might get lucky. If it is difficult, then you will kick yourself if the cheap ones don't fix it. You won't know for sure unless you install the proper parts.
People pay to get rid of them because they cost so much to keep them running.
A woman tried to sell an ‘02 to my wife for $25,000. It was 3 years old and had extremely low miles.
Her neighbor told me that car was in the shop more than it was in the driveway. I put the $25K down on an XC 90. Dodged a HUGE bullet!
Uncle Sam,
I just did one of these. Dont waste any time on the solenoids. Your clutches are burnt to a crisp. All friction material is gone and burnt fluid makes a good adhesive. As a result the solenoids are unable to actuate the clutch packs and therefore showing up as a solenoid stuck open/close depending on the default config. And now because your trans speed sensors do not match the override is leaving it in 3rd.
You can fix this. The clutch pack is right up front (the top) and the issue will be obvious. The clutch baskets are easy to undo. This job requires long ridgid flat heads. Pry bars are good but they often require work at the tip so they can fit.
Once the trans is off take a look before you buy a used tranny. Apart from removing the valve body to access the Trans, you wont have to touch the valve body.
3rd party rebuild kit is $200-300 and comes with all orings, seals, steels and frictions. You wont need them all.
Video everything. Bearings and races will fall out and orientation is king.
Awesome find. Good luck.
💯
That video part is especially important
Absolutely DON’T do the cheap fix!
There should be a law that ANYTIME a major part is replaced, the man doing it must put down his name on a permanent record, or be guilty of a misdemeanor!
I wanna see your step mom more!😅
the mind set of big shops/dealers, is that you have more insurance on the repair selling/ installing a new/reman unit, sure you can fix the valve body or whatever, but everything attached to that valve body is now your liability ,and if anything happens after that, the customer can and will assume it was the mechanics repair that caused this issue "the ever since" club , and as a result they will demand it be repaired for free. It's not worth the headache.
Another Range Rover… oh no
Exactly…😅
People truly have no idea just how insanely reliable the AJ V8 truly is. Besides, it's backed by a ZF 6HP. Both indestructible. Point is stay away from any Rover with a 5.0 or BMW powerplant. Long live the AJ.
Holy cow, is that undercarriage clean!! Way to go Sam. Hope it works out for you!
Nice Rover. If I was spending my money to fix it, I would by the rebuilt solenoids. If there is an underlying issue, you won't be throwing away extra money if the rebuilt soleoids are damaged as a result. Find the underlying issue and fix it before instaling new solenoids or even another rebuilt set.
Samcrac... I wouldn't take a Range Rover if you actually paid me $700. The only vehicles a half crippled ex-mechanic like me ever wants to own anymore all have VIN's that start with J!
- and I only have two rules for buying a car: NO German/Italian/British/Korean junk and NO detroit iron -
well you now have the best Rover they made. Jeremy Clarkson and Harry's Garage still own them and there is a whole video of them explaining why. This one Sam is worth keeping and maintaining!
That said, it IS the SUV equivalent of a Ferrari in that they expect people with enough money to throw 5K or 10K at a time at it to keep it running. If you are afraid of the repair bills you simply shouldn't buy one.
I had a Jeep GC that, according to the dealer, needed a new transmission. Based on the error codes, I first replaced the shift solenoid ($150) that didn't fix it. I then replaced the shift solenoid sensor ($150), that fixed it.
Definitely get the zf solenoids. If you have a problem with the cheap ones its going to be $400 just to open up the trans again, diagnose, new fluid, nevermind replacing anything.
If you can't get the engine running swap an LS and 6L80E into it. Deal with the wiring and getting the BCM to communicate and you have a reliable luxury SUV that's runs like we all wish they would.
I talked to an old car dealer who had been in the business all his life. He said "All I ever found at auction was another man's trash". He only bought from individuals.
I wouldn't go cheap on parts replacements. It's more peace of mind knowing the parts are genuine and will work...
4:10 bro got that Minecraft walk effect sound 💀💀💀
I now repair faulty solenoids, split them and resoldered the connection inside which breaks. On my old L322 4.4 V8 I just replaced one solenoid with a reconditioned one from Fullfat RR UK forum for £20, that was four years ago and the old girl is still going strong. I don't think these old gals are for your average motorist unless they have deep pockets for dealer and "specialist" prices. It is "don't fix, replace" in UK now. A friend was told by two garages that his car was not economically worth fixing as the turbo and fuel pump had failed.... two minutes later I refitted a vacuum line back on and car was fixed, ironically it probably came off when the garage serviced the car? You don't make money with two minute fixes!
You really should find which solenoid is faulty before you play parts darts, then only buy OEM (you'll be guaranteed that they will work), but it may be the wiring harness or the gearbox ECU which is why you need to test to pinpoint the fault.
The secret to every Land Rover that isn’t a pre 1980 series truck is; the fewer options the better. A zero option truck is a lottery winner.
Hi Sam. THis happened to my Merc. After sitting in the garage for 6 months after l bought it, the transmission went into limp mode due to a failing main battery.
Fitted a new battery and reset the transmission with a scanner and VOILA! All done.
Range Rover's constant problem the gearbox although I had a 98 2.5 BMW turbo diesel, never had a problem with it & loved it to bits. What a workhorse it was, brilliant.
Peak humanity right here: everything's clean, somebody is 100% hiding something.
The problem is that usually that's true.
I replaced a solenoid pack in a Dodge van 9 months ago. My wife drives it every day. Well worth the trouble for me.
$700 is pocket change for a plaything/project. Nothing lost (potential profit) if you lose interest and decide to sell on - even if for parts. Chinese $47 gamble is one worth taking... If it shifts out of 3rd gear, even for a day, you've found the problem and can decide whether it's worth doing a proper job. I currently have a couple of L322's and love them despite their many shortcomings!
I would rather buy solenoids from an auto wrecker than gamble on made in China merchandise. You may find the fault to be a connector, or contamination of the solenoid due to a failed seal, and a simple clean may solve the issue. All in all I think you did very well. Enjoyed the video, thank you. Keep entertaining us.
Thanks for not using a power screwdriver for door panel removal. That proves you are a real mechanic .
I recommend the same thing for every land rover: LS SWAP IT. It can be done dirt cheap, can program the correct vin, and will make that part of it bulletproof.
If it is a ZF box (as many are), a pretty easy fix if you repair auto transmissions. They do suffer from shaft bush wear, but I missed if you mentioned how many miles it had on it. I would only put a brand new set of OEM solenoids in it but have used the reman chinese versions successfully and I would put a Sonnax zip kit in it as well if you can get one. This means you will need to split the mechatronic valve body and put in a new seperator gasket, but it is very worthwhile. You should see tiny flecks of copper (non-magnetic) in your oil if the bushes are gone. Durabond have bush sets, and the bush install tool sets are cheap. Gary Ferraro of AAA-1 on YT has done these boxes for your guidance.
Usual trouble. A premium luxury car carries premium luxury repair costs even when it has depreciated to junker levels.
Since it’s your money I would get the more expensive solenoids. I have spent time and effort working on an automatic transmission and I wouldn’t want to save a few bucks and then do it twice.
Two things:
1). Pickup your feet when you walk.
2). Why not just get a used transmission and take a risk ? How much are they?
Sam Check the fuse box , I had a similar issue on my 2007 Jaguar XK which uses the same 4.2 v8. I had been swapping around fuses to fix an electrical fault and a similar issue occurred to me, it wouldn't shift . Turns out I had forgotten to put a fuse back in and replacing it fixed it immediately. This powertrain is incredibly reliable, just make sure to change the trans fluid once in a while.
One thing you tubers fail to point out Sam, is that you are buying a premium vehicle on the cheap. Unfortunately, you still have to pay premium prices for the repairs. It goes with the vehicle hourly shop rates at the garage. Also, it is a way for the manufacturers to maximise their profits. I used to drive the 3 litre V6 XF. Got rid of it due to the expensive running costs.
Sam why not speak to Diagnose Dan, he's on TH-cam and is based in Holland, he wont replace a component until hes diagnosed it. He is a wizard😊
About the Range Rover and the solenoid. To further investigate to discover what solenoid has failed I would use a multimeter set on the resistance range. On a low resistance range possible first. A solenoid is an electromechanical device. It has a coil of wire that has two connections. By placing the probes of the multimeter on the electrical contacts (one could be the body or earth) you should measure a very low resistance. Some resistance but not open circuit. That's a no no. It it's open circuit you have discovered a fault. All the solenoid should conduct and if the same or similar on each gear you can expect the same or very similar resistance. Suspect anything way different than the others. Just compare the resistance measurement. The mechanical part of the solenoid can not move or seize up. That's not detectable with a multimeter and it will cause the transmission not to shift gears. Only spend what you have to and get the solenoid you need. Let me know how you get on. Mike (Australia)
Recipe for the best, most reliable Range Rover. LS swap, painless harness and Holley ECU. Rovers look so nice, but British engineering and wiring are an unending PITA.
I bought a supercharged 2007 last spring with the same mileage on it. There is no reason the transmission should be trash, You have the ZF tranny. Change the solenoid and change all the fluids, transfer case and diffs. This thing should be good for another 100k.
I bought an alternator and wiper motor from a very well known website that has "all the parts your call will ever need"- Both parts were bad! Like reman rejects thrown back on to the sales floor. No more cheap electric parts for me, I encourage you to do the same.
Same thing I did with my BMW X5 I just replaced the solenoid and it shifted fine !🎉🎊🎉
I dated a girl in college who dropped a coffee in the center console of her RR. They wanted $700 to replace the interior of the console. The jawn was always in the shop... My grandfather also tested one for a week or so but instead opted for a Sequoia with all the bells and whistles. That Sequoia is still rolling today well over 350000 miles with every single option still working. Range Rover probably RIP sumwhere
Go with the oem solenoids, it seems like it might actually be worth it to invest a little bit into this Range.
The outro sound track hits hard with headphones, I was not expecting that shit 😂😂😂 16:43
Yet when you buy a brand new one, the "Drive off the lot depreciation" taxes, fees, add-ons, destination charges, etc... financially totals even the brand new one. So, no win...
The middle cycle of the L322 with the Jag 4.4 V8 was probably the least worst. These are amazing cars when they work
I have the same transmission in my 2005 Bmw 645ci. I replaced the solenoids with remanufactured ones from china and I've been driving it for 4 years now no issues! No reason to spend money on new ones.
12 years fixing Range Rovers. Buy new genuine parts wherever possible or don’t buy cheap. Quality always for me.
At this point you should try swapping the motor to something more reliable.
That would be a cool video!
Here in the UK there is a BIG problem with Range Rovers and Land Rovers Discovery being stolen in London into the hundreds per week, where as if you buy one now new or second hand the insurance company will not insure you (you have to have insurance in the UK). JLR are aware of this since March and are recalling the cars.
The theives somehow log in to the transponder and make their own key then they are cut up as the money is in South Africa is in the running gear.
So… ZF 6HP26? Buy the OE solenoids, don’t forget the ‘circuit board’ (can’t remember the correct name for that part, it’s sandwiched in between the two valve body halfs). Cheap stuff can arrive not working or not correctly, causing the same problem you’re trying to fix and throw you off. And if it works, you can upsell it as a car with a refurbished transmission.
Solenoids aren't exactly complex parts. Remanufactured should be fine. This is why so many nice cars wind up in poorer places working just fine.
I think I see your problem: Range Rover! That said, the under carriage is amazingly clean for a vehicle of that age!
No cheap stuff. That car looks mint.
Had 2 L322 - Both with bad Transmissions. Changed the solenoids no luck. Put new transmission in myself, good to go
That was a great tie-in with calling the Range Rover a tank and leading right into War Thunder! Haha, well done.
Wow! RR's scare me but .... in this case I think I would go for the new OEM solenoids, truck mite actually have a few thousand more miles left in it till the next thing fails. What about ancillary equip? Brakes etc? Potential other "cost" items.