The belt routing diagram was a nice touch, some torque specs would have been good though if you could edit that into the description. Either way you got another sub, keep up the good work my dude 👍
Its solid on the outside but it has viscous fluid inside much like clutch fans. It also has significantly less rotational mass when engine running. The only reason it didnt come with 1 from factory bc of cost savings. @@xXSQPRXx
I usually use a 3/8" Impact to break them loose. That or a 3/8" air ratchet. You can also use a long enough 3/8" ratchet and knock them loose with that if you quickly loosen them.
In your shot from the underside in the 6th minute of the vid, the whole front of everything there is caked in soot, oil, cbu. Any idea what that's all from? Mine is the same way
Oil in that area can be from a few things. Could be a leaking valve cover gasket if it starts up at the top. If it's just around the bottom, it could be from the oil feed or return line for the turbos. It could also be coming from the seal on the boost pressure hose at the intercooler or turbo. The best bet is to clean everything off and drive for a few days and then check everything again to locate the leak.
I know this is an old video..but I have 11' 335d.. 94k miles. The HB and both belts were replaced at 81k miles. I just looked today and noticed the ac belt has a couple places with fraying. The serpentine belt looks great. Any idea why it would be fraying so soon? AC works great. No belt noise or anything.
Great video! I just got a 335d and love it but I’m having issues with the AC - 66K mile, one owner car so great condition but have you heard of that stretch belt going bad and causing it to slip and in turn causing the AC to not function at 100%?
I have not seen the stretch belt be an issue on these. Only the harmonic balancer. I would definitely check it to make sure it isn't cracked and broken free.
Thanks I appreciate it! On cool days - 75F and below the AC runs as it should but when its 85/90+ it’s as if it’s running at 6/10ths the way it should. Takes 20+ minutes cruising on the highway to just get it to blow cold air
Thanks for the video, the question I have... does the engine need to be in neutral to turn the crank or did you just leave it in park (when removing the AC belt)? Thanks!
Hiya fella, do you NOT have to stop the pullys from turning the engine when cranking on the harmonic balancer ? Thanks for the info reply greatly appreciated 👍 my car is a 335d 2007 e90
When loosening the four bolts holding the crank pulley you may have to. If you leave the belt on there its usually enough drag to be able to break the bolts loose before the engine turns. A trick you can use is to put a large hose clamp around the belt next to the crank pulley. This will add some more tension to the belt and some more drag on where it wraps around the pulley and help to hold it. You may also try hitting the ratchet you are using with a hammer in the loosening direction. Usually the blunt force is enough to knock the bolts loose.
Thanks for upload. Not many videos on 335d 👍
Nice job. I felt this video was better than the one with Fluidampr for overall understanding and love the hack for the stretch belt.
Subbed. Easy straight to the point
The belt routing diagram was a nice touch, some torque specs would have been good though if you could edit that into the description. Either way you got another sub, keep up the good work my dude 👍
Thanks for the feedback and the sub. I added the torque specs to the description.
Doing mine tomorrow, did you not need to lock crank to torque crank pully to spec ?
Counter held the crankshaft at the center bolt. The harmonic balancer bolts on with its own bolts in a circle around the center bolt.
Doing the same job on mine. You did help me understand how the crank turning devise worked so thanks very much. BTW I'm in NC too.
Glad I could be of help. If you ever have any other questions feel free to direct message me on Instagram, @munkysgarage.
I replaced mine with the fluidampr so I’ll never have to worry about breaking it anymore.
It also feels like there’s a lot less vibration.
wow i figured it would would have more vibrations because its a solid and harder than stock
Its solid on the outside but it has viscous fluid inside much like clutch fans. It also has significantly less rotational mass when engine running. The only reason it didnt come with 1 from factory bc of cost savings. @@xXSQPRXx
Great video. How did you actually remove the four E12s without the engine turning over?
I usually use a 3/8" Impact to break them loose. That or a 3/8" air ratchet. You can also use a long enough 3/8" ratchet and knock them loose with that if you quickly loosen them.
In your shot from the underside in the 6th minute of the vid, the whole front of everything there is caked in soot, oil, cbu. Any idea what that's all from? Mine is the same way
Oil in that area can be from a few things. Could be a leaking valve cover gasket if it starts up at the top. If it's just around the bottom, it could be from the oil feed or return line for the turbos. It could also be coming from the seal on the boost pressure hose at the intercooler or turbo. The best bet is to clean everything off and drive for a few days and then check everything again to locate the leak.
I know this is an old video..but I have 11' 335d.. 94k miles. The HB and both belts were replaced at 81k miles. I just looked today and noticed the ac belt has a couple places with fraying. The serpentine belt looks great. Any idea why it would be fraying so soon? AC works great. No belt noise or anything.
The belt may not have been properly seated in the grooves initially and could have been damaged, causing premature failure.
is it possible to replace ac belt on from the bottom without removing the fan??
Never tried it. But it should be possible.
Great video! I just got a 335d and love it but I’m having issues with the AC - 66K mile, one owner car so great condition but have you heard of that stretch belt going bad and causing it to slip and in turn causing the AC to not function at 100%?
I have not seen the stretch belt be an issue on these. Only the harmonic balancer. I would definitely check it to make sure it isn't cracked and broken free.
Thanks I appreciate it! On cool days - 75F and below the AC runs as it should but when its 85/90+ it’s as if it’s running at 6/10ths the way it should. Takes 20+ minutes cruising on the highway to just get it to blow cold air
@@ryanafarrell recharge your ac refrigerant, I bet you have a slow leak.
Thanks for the video, the question I have... does the engine need to be in neutral to turn the crank or did you just leave it in park (when removing the AC belt)? Thanks!
It can be in either. But I normally just leave them in park.
What are the torque specs for the harmonic balancer?
40nm and then 120 degrees of rotation
Munky's Garage what dose it mean by 120 degrees of rotation?
@@JacobCastanedaafter torquing to 40 newton metres; turn an extra 120 degrees to stretch the bolt .
Hiya fella, do you NOT have to stop the pullys from turning the engine when cranking on the harmonic balancer ? Thanks for the info reply greatly appreciated 👍 my car is a 335d 2007 e90
When loosening the four bolts holding the crank pulley you may have to. If you leave the belt on there its usually enough drag to be able to break the bolts loose before the engine turns. A trick you can use is to put a large hose clamp around the belt next to the crank pulley. This will add some more tension to the belt and some more drag on where it wraps around the pulley and help to hold it. You may also try hitting the ratchet you are using with a hammer in the loosening direction. Usually the blunt force is enough to knock the bolts loose.
@@MunkysGarage hi so you used same method to tighten harmonic balancer up?Great video btw👍