Having owned my m47 for 18 years now and with over 467k on the clock only now the pulley starting to give way😎 if you do the work yourself stick to original BMW parts if not then just scrap it
I’d an E46 320d prior to my current E92 335d. The crankshaft pulley literally exploded one evening when pulling away on petrol station forecourt. Loud bang, followed up by several small noises from engine area, got out to find the pulley in pieces around the car. Still drove it a few days before getting it repaired. Was only 80k on clock, but was 16 yrs old and probably the original pulley.
I'll be sure to use this as a reference soon as mine is rattling a little now on idle. 160k, 2004 320d. Really wanting to remap it but I'd rather have the engine running 100% sweet before I do so. Big thanks mate!
Some serious torqueing down there. I have the M57TU2 3.0 engine which has 4 separate torx bolts instead of one big bolt. They are not that difficult to torque down and the flywheel can easily be held in place with a mandrel.
Yeah it wasn't the original so don't think it was torqued up properly. With that being said, I think my impact wrench would still undo it as it has like 1600nm of breakaway torque
Currently have a e61 BMW in the garage and they have had it a week and are telling me they can't get the bolt out any suggestions of what I can ask them to try? Any assistance would be much appreciated as I am concerned they are going to scrap the car.
Hi George. Any tips on how to properly replace the front main seal? I've done mine but it's still leaking. Also does it fit flush in line with the housing or was I supposed to push it all the way in?
did this on two of my bms and did not bother going all the way to spec. still fine and no issues. I did the flywheel technique as the tool I had just wouldn't hold the bully in place. also make sure you get Corteco Pully, they are the original supplier to BMW. whatever you do DO NOT buy a cheap Chinese one, It will not be balanced properly and rattle the whole engine. will also fail prematurely. Ask me how I found out. Hope this helps someone.
Do you have any other way to lock the crankshaft, because the link didn’t work and i dont have tool you use to lock it when you installing the new one.
how was the engine not rotating backwards/anti clockwise when you was unfastening the bolt with the impact gun did you lock the fly wheel or something ?
Hey George! Big fan of yours watching almost all of your videos from Washington DC. Now, do you have a DIY video of taking out an intercooler? I have a E70 35d with M57 engine and I will be replacing the pulleys and belts soon. I want to take that opportunity to clean the fan and inspect the intercooler.
Hi George it seems every problem I have you have a video to explain which is great! Mines at the garage atm and I'm just worried they won't torque it property like you have should I be concerned??
Dude, I need advice asap, my crankshaft pulley snapped in half!!! Somehow the serpentine belt that runs the alternator and stuff must have jumped or some s*** on to the smooth part of the pulley. And the other belt for the AC just fell off. Can I drive it like this to local garage or is it too risky. Because I don't have tools at home to untorque the unbolt of the crankshaft pulley
Just had the same issue yesterday. Yes, you can drive to the garage, but shift very carefully and don't rev the engine. The belt is not held properly and might jump off any moment since it is being driven by this smooth part. You will lose power steering and the alternator if the belt snaps.
This is how these pulleys fail - the outer part falls off, you lose power steering, but the serpentine belt catches itself on the inner smooth metal part. Yes, you can drive. The belt will squeal, you will have no power steering, but other than that it is derivable.
Hi George. I got the Tool to lock the pulley and torqued it to 100nm. I struggled to secure the tool when turning the bolt 150deg, i only managed to 70deg turn before the socket holder i was using snapped. Now the Pulley holder slips off when trying to stretch the bolt any further, the teeth on the Crankshaft Pulled have been damaged by the securing tool. Shall i just leave it and call it job done or should i get a new Bolt and re-do the entire job. Do you think i should put on a fresh crankshaft pulley too ?
Just doing my son's 320d (2006) same problem with locking the engine for undoing (got the pucker tool and a 5ft breaker bar extension) tight! Jeeezus H Christ! Snapped a Facom 3/4 drive! And the lugs on the hub just chew up, the damn thing is aluminium, (yes it's a FebBilstein) why not steel? The locking tool is unscathed. Watch this space boys, going back tomorrow.........BTW, I think the N47 has four fixing bolts and the variant with the single bolt is a N47T2 engine?........
@@GeorgeAusters normally it has to hold if you push the hand brake and put in gear, it slips only if the rear wheels are not touching the ground , I will do this job on weekend on my E46 so I'm trying to find a solution because I don't have the Locking tool
Do you have the design for the locking tool. I’m a mechanical engineering student but I work in a machine shop so will be able to manufacture it myself . Great video 😁
Hi, I am a little confused as to how these pulley locking tools actually work. As per the manual, you are supposed to lock the crankshaft by inserting a special tool in the teeth of the flywheel; this would cause a tremendous stress on the crankshaft and teeth but if it's in the manual, it "should" be safe.. But with the pulley locking tool, you are only preventing the pulley from turning, not the crankshaft itself. So why wouldn't it have a tendency to turn together with the bolt as you are releasing or tightening it? I don't get this. I am asking because my original pulley disintegrated, I released the bolt by locking the flywheel with a big blunt chisel in the teeth and put a new one back on with the old bolt, but now I want to redo it "properly" to spec with a virgin bolt.
@@GeorgeAusters For reference, I did the job with the locking tool. The flywheel hardly moved at all during the whole 60+60+30 sequence! So these tools work as intended. It is crucial to use a virgin bolt - the bolt is actually very loose in the crankshaft if you just try it out first and it gets stretched out during tightening by about 0.04 inches (I compared the new with the old one). If one reuses the old bolt, the sequence should not be attempted, just tighten as much as possible. I used a 3/4 in drive tool with an extension pipe, total length about 5 feet (which is about the longest leverage one can conveniently use). I had an inspection pit available for the job, so the tool handle rested inside a steel pipe vertically down in the pit. The first 60 degrees was easy, the next 60 was pretty tough, though nothing compared to the last 30 degrees - that will make you cry! All in all, a pretty satisfying job with the right tools and preparation.
Looks, like something wrong here with that extended bar and overtightening. That wheel doesn't pull such weight, to be so much compressed. To much stress on other elements too. Btw, if you compare - at the right side from crank wheel there is that smaller metalic belt wheel, and it is tightened with that small center bolt only, actually a weakest point of the belt components. Once that small metalic wheel got stuck, untightened screw, and broke the belt in pieces ...
Hi mate, instead of the locking tool, do you reckon it's possible just to get the car in gear and parking break on, in order to keep that from moving? thanks for these videos, very informative and advert free.
@@GeorgeAusters the M57s in my two BMW have 170k and 173k miles, no sign of any play in the crank pulley. I checked recently as I had to change the water pump on both of them. The differences between the M47 and M57 can be significant as can the procedures for working on an M57 vs an M47.
I'm thinking to change the crankshaft pulley on my e60 because it has a rattling sound on idle and also when i accelerate a little bit . I was wondering if i let the car in first gear I'm not able to get the pulley out without using the special tool ?
No. The bolt is a torque to yield bolt (like a head bolt), and has to be tightened by a specific sequence. I am sure it will hold if tightened by an impact, though.
George, your videos helped a lot, as someone commented, no BMW channel can compete anymore I was wondering if you could tell which breaker bar did you use, 1/2 or 3/4? And did you use any glue or something else on that bolt? Thanks and keep going strong mate
Be interested to see some of theis M47/M57 work actually done on an M57 engined car. Although the M47 seems like a cutdown version of the M57 it isn't and there are numerous differences between the two (apart from the number of cylinders thats is).
I did it the pulley replace job on my m57n2 engine. Did it all without any special tools. Even removed and installed the stretchbelt again with just a rope and rotating the pulley by hand. Stopped the rotation by jamming the pulley with breaker bar(or anything) on ground to the center on pulley to unbolt and torque. That actually was lot easier than i feared.
Thanks for the video George! Thinking about doing mine as the rubber looking cracked now. What about leaving it in gear? or it would just move the car slowly lol
If anyone had difficulty taking off, then you can get a friend to hold the brakes in gear if it is a manual transmission. The car can be put into 1st or reverse. Will the clutch slip? No, because it is normally rated for more torque than what you'll be able to put on the little bolt. When you install the bolt, you can put engine oil onto the treads to lower the required torque by 40 percent.
We trying this at Min but we can't get that main bolt out got breaker bar and scaffold bar on it too is it opposite thread or owt it's a m57 engine manual
Hi Georges, great video for my current project. Just a point who is not clear for me please. Do you first lock it with Nm key, and you add additionnal torque, right?
on my car I got to the stage where the special tool was needed and didn't have one. so locked it of as well as I could and tightened it up to 60 then it slipped lost my place and punched the frame. tightened it a little more and did it again at that point my hand was bleeding and decided that was "to spec"
Would you consider hiring out that tool that your old man fabricated? Looks way more substantial than the tool you can buy. I need to do this over the next few weeks.
@@GeorgeAusters one of the more nerve racking things ever I have just finished After 3 day torture Reached 149degrees and had enough when the special tool fell out bcoz the walls of the pulley and the tool are slanted not 90degrees angle There is NO WAY i would have reached the final stage without greasing the entire shit with graphite grease I had to use 2pipes 1.5meters long One for countering with special tool and to lever the tool in the pulley And other pipe for 22mm socket For comparison vw golf 4 from 2000 with 85kw for the pulley first stage 60Nm 2nd stage 60degrees With the golf having waaaay better acceleration and 25Nm more torque from engine I would know bcoz i own both Do not bolt in the pulley w/out greasing!!!
@@GeorgeAusters ocean going cargo ships main engine cylinders are bolted down with huge bolts Bolts are greased or oiled And then bolts are tightened with special hydraulic tools The tightening force is massive which is no surprise I know that from proffesional experience Effects of metal on metal friction is well known What is surprising the force for this engine when an engine with more torque output uses only 60Nm and finaly 60degrees
Hi mate I have the crank pulley on my 335d 4 bolts my mechanic is saying you don't need to lock the engine if he uses an impact to take it off and torque it back on? Is that correct when putting it back on?
Glad that came off easily mister, deffo not the right torque and if they're tight 3/4 impact with a little heat is the only reliable way. It'd laugh at 1/2 breaker bars ;) Decent locking tool, ya auld man did ya well
Ok guys as you can see, as you know dat dese common common problems. Ive just jad a company contact me to send me one of dese to ree view. As you guys know.
Best thing is i told people that a certain company is sending me a digital dash free to reeeview for dem but someone asked the company on there channel and they said they dont have any intention to send anything 😂
Shows how bad he is with his new video i put that exact ugdo android screen in my car over a year ago and it literally takes 20mins max just plug and play. And hes saying it was really intense and took him 7 hours to fit. Theres loads of install videos on here showing how simple and quick it is even though he says its not being released until he says so 😂 and rhat his is the first video. I think he lies that much that he actually believes it
No bro dese are straight from nasa mandems and der waiting for my reee view my friend befor goi g ahead and selling them to you guys dat av dese cars as you guys know
@@GeorgeAusters Hi George, so having a nightmare with this bolt. My local garage cant get the thing off, theyve tried heating up the bolt, blocking the fly wheel, using the crankpulley tool against the sub frame and using a breaker bar with no joy. The teeth have torn on the crank pulley also for the tool. Any tips or other methods you could suggest?
Heads up, the crank shaft pulley bolt will never come loose as easy as you just witnessed. That bolt had definitely been slacked off prior to the video. Get your wife to hop in the drivers seat with her 8st body weight pressed against the brake pedal and put it in 4th gear and get your self a 6ft scaffold bar and 5 men to lever it off. I have had to.burn them with with oxy burner before now. Good luck, dont be fooled by this false video.
I released the original bolt (car is 17 years old) with a breaker bar and extension by locking the flywheel by the teeth. It was tough, but definitely doable with both hands pulling hard on the bar ;)
Having owned my m47 for 18 years now and with over 467k on the clock only now the pulley starting to give way😎 if you do the work yourself stick to original BMW parts if not then just scrap it
I’d an E46 320d prior to my current E92 335d. The crankshaft pulley literally exploded one evening when pulling away on petrol station forecourt. Loud bang, followed up by several small noises from engine area, got out to find the pulley in pieces around the car. Still drove it a few days before getting it repaired. Was only 80k on clock, but was 16 yrs old and probably the original pulley.
Yeah likely was the original, very common problem 👍🏻
I'll be sure to use this as a reference soon as mine is rattling a little now on idle.
160k, 2004 320d.
Really wanting to remap it but I'd rather have the engine running 100% sweet before I do so.
Big thanks mate!
Brave man, my toes were curling up watching you tighten that bolt. Nice bit of milling on the tool👍
Hahaha mine were too! & cheers!
Same here! You saw the whole engine moving while he was tightning 😱
@@GeorgeAusters The offical locking tool I saw are very short, what wall thickness pipe do you recommend to extend it to the subframe?
Some serious torqueing down there. I have the M57TU2 3.0 engine which has 4 separate torx bolts instead of one big bolt. They are not that difficult to torque down and the flywheel can easily be held in place with a mandrel.
Is is possible to block the engine b4 tighteing the pulley by engaging 6th gear and engaging the hand brake?
Bro that pulley came off WAY to easy. I had a 3ft breaker bar and a scaffold pole on mine and it took all my 19stone to undo it. Crazy crazy tight.
Yeah it wasn't the original so don't think it was torqued up properly. With that being said, I think my impact wrench would still undo it as it has like 1600nm of breakaway torque
Currently have a e61 BMW in the garage and they have had it a week and are telling me they can't get the bolt out any suggestions of what I can ask them to try? Any assistance would be much appreciated as I am concerned they are going to scrap the car.
Thanks for this video, just had mine replaced. Was in a terrible state, ticking time bomb.
Yep very common issue mate!
No bmw channel can compete anymore
just wodering if you just weld the 2 metal part inner and outer ring with metal over the silikon will this be bad for the engine ?
I'm doing one for my mate this week his is rattling 👌
Good luck!
Nice one, thats a good bit of fabrication on making that tool 👍 think you owe your dad a pint when the pubs reopen 😂
Absolutely!
Hi George. Any tips on how to properly replace the front main seal? I've done mine but it's still leaking. Also does it fit flush in line with the housing or was I supposed to push it all the way in?
If you struggle, get a mate to sit in the drivers seat, put it in 5th gear , foot on the brake until your finished and then torque it up
i assume this doesnot work with cars with automatic transmission
did this on two of my bms and did not bother going all the way to spec. still fine and no issues. I did the flywheel technique as the tool I had just wouldn't hold the bully in place. also make sure you get Corteco Pully, they are the original supplier to BMW. whatever you do DO NOT buy a cheap Chinese one, It will not be balanced properly and rattle the whole engine. will also fail prematurely. Ask me how I found out. Hope this helps someone.
Paldies par informaciju 0:15
Do you have any other way to lock the crankshaft, because the link didn’t work and i dont have tool you use to lock it when you installing the new one.
how was the engine not rotating backwards/anti clockwise when you was unfastening the bolt with the impact gun did you lock the fly wheel or something ?
Impacts don’t work like a drill, they work like a hammer and don’t spin the bolt
How does bad crankshaft pully sound?
Did you damage the engine mounts while tightening the bolt :) You really pushed engine up...
I tryed mine with the original tool and having no luck can u help me 😔
What is the symptoms?Mine is making noise when I turned off.e46 330cd 158k miles now.x
Hey George! Big fan of yours watching almost all of your videos from Washington DC. Now, do you have a DIY video of taking out an intercooler? I have a E70 35d with M57 engine and I will be replacing the pulleys and belts soon. I want to take that opportunity to clean the fan and inspect the intercooler.
very helpful thank you sir
Do you buy bolt separately ???
Hi George it seems every problem I have you have a video to explain which is great! Mines at the garage atm and I'm just worried they won't torque it property like you have should I be concerned??
I would just ask them if they have torqued it up to proper spec
Yeah will do I'll ask what they have torqued it too instead of saying has it been done to 400nm 😂 thanks for the reply! 🙂😎
Good luck mate👍🏻
Thanks bud will keep you posted keep up with the great Vids they've helped so much! 😎
Dobra robota fachowa blokada.
Pozdrawiam.
my m57 has 4 bolts instead of the single one so other beware of the difference
Also great video very descriptive and great to follow
Dude, I need advice asap, my crankshaft pulley snapped in half!!! Somehow the serpentine belt that runs the alternator and stuff must have jumped or some s*** on to the smooth part of the pulley. And the other belt for the AC just fell off. Can I drive it like this to local garage or is it too risky. Because I don't have tools at home to untorque the unbolt of the crankshaft pulley
You can drive without the drive belt but you’ll have no power steering and your battery will go flat before long
Just had the same issue yesterday. Yes, you can drive to the garage, but shift very carefully and don't rev the engine. The belt is not held properly and might jump off any moment since it is being driven by this smooth part. You will lose power steering and the alternator if the belt snaps.
This is how these pulleys fail - the outer part falls off, you lose power steering, but the serpentine belt catches itself on the inner smooth metal part. Yes, you can drive. The belt will squeal, you will have no power steering, but other than that it is derivable.
Hi George.
I got the Tool to lock the pulley and torqued it to 100nm.
I struggled to secure the tool when turning the bolt 150deg, i only managed to 70deg turn before the socket holder i was using snapped. Now the Pulley holder slips off when trying to stretch the bolt any further, the teeth on the Crankshaft Pulled have been damaged by the securing tool.
Shall i just leave it and call it job done or should i get a new Bolt and re-do the entire job.
Do you think i should put on a fresh crankshaft pulley too ?
Are you using the same pulley I used in this video or a cheap chinese one?
@@GeorgeAusters got the Febi one from amazon.
Just doing my son's 320d (2006) same problem with locking the engine for undoing (got the pucker tool and a 5ft breaker bar extension) tight! Jeeezus H Christ! Snapped a Facom 3/4 drive! And the lugs on the hub just chew up, the damn thing is aluminium, (yes it's a FebBilstein) why not steel? The locking tool is unscathed. Watch this space boys, going back tomorrow.........BTW, I think the N47 has four fixing bolts and the variant with the single bolt is a N47T2 engine?........
What if you just put car in gear? You will be able to remove the bolt ? Or torque it ?
Try it lol, just slips.. in gear will only hold it to about 40nm
@@GeorgeAusters normally it has to hold if you push the hand brake and put in gear, it slips only if the rear wheels are not touching the ground , I will do this job on weekend on my E46 so I'm trying to find a solution because I don't have the Locking tool
Do you have the design for the locking tool. I’m a mechanical engineering student but I work in a machine shop so will be able to manufacture it myself . Great video 😁
My dad just measured up the voids from the crankshaft pulley and cnc’d them out in a piece of aluminium
@@GeorgeAusters perfect thanks. I’ll do some measuring and brake out solidworks 😂
Hi, I am a little confused as to how these pulley locking tools actually work. As per the manual, you are supposed to lock the crankshaft by inserting a special tool in the teeth of the flywheel; this would cause a tremendous stress on the crankshaft and teeth but if it's in the manual, it "should" be safe.. But with the pulley locking tool, you are only preventing the pulley from turning, not the crankshaft itself. So why wouldn't it have a tendency to turn together with the bolt as you are releasing or tightening it? I don't get this.
I am asking because my original pulley disintegrated, I released the bolt by locking the flywheel with a big blunt chisel in the teeth and put a new one back on with the old bolt, but now I want to redo it "properly" to spec with a virgin bolt.
I wouldn’t recommend locking the flywheel by holding the teeth.. you can end up snapping them off
@@GeorgeAusters OK, I will try with the pulley locking tool, and check if there is rotation of the flywheel during tightening sequence.
@@GeorgeAusters For reference, I did the job with the locking tool. The flywheel hardly moved at all during the whole 60+60+30 sequence! So these tools work as intended. It is crucial to use a virgin bolt - the bolt is actually very loose in the crankshaft if you just try it out first and it gets stretched out during tightening by about 0.04 inches (I compared the new with the old one). If one reuses the old bolt, the sequence should not be attempted, just tighten as much as possible. I used a 3/4 in drive tool with an extension pipe, total length about 5 feet (which is about the longest leverage one can conveniently use). I had an inspection pit available for the job, so the tool handle rested inside a steel pipe vertically down in the pit. The first 60 degrees was easy, the next 60 was pretty tough, though nothing compared to the last 30 degrees - that will make you cry! All in all, a pretty satisfying job with the right tools and preparation.
Looks, like something wrong here with that extended bar and overtightening. That wheel doesn't pull such weight, to be so much compressed. To much stress on other elements too. Btw, if you compare - at the right side from crank wheel there is that smaller metalic belt wheel, and it is tightened with that small center bolt only, actually a weakest point of the belt components. Once that small metalic wheel got stuck, untightened screw, and broke the belt in pieces ...
Hi mate, instead of the locking tool, do you reckon it's possible just to get the car in gear and parking break on, in order to keep that from moving? thanks for these videos, very informative and advert free.
That should work, right? I need to change mine as well
@@danielagyei9987 did you figure out if it worked? my cranskshaft pulley literally destryoed itself and i need to replace it
Wrap the belt around the pulley that works without locking tool
M57 has 4 bolt setup
Not one big single bolt
How much play should there be in the rubber?
As I can move mine slightly by hand
Cheers
How many miles on it? They usually only last 100K miles or so
240000 miles!
Mine held 139.000 and then disintegrated into two pieces throwing the belt off. N47D20c made in 2010 :)
@@GeorgeAusters the M57s in my two BMW have 170k and 173k miles, no sign of any play in the crank pulley. I checked recently as I had to change the water pump on both of them.
The differences between the M47 and M57 can be significant as can the procedures for working on an M57 vs an M47.
too bad you don't have a video to replace the alternator but thanks for your video
good job man
Great vid again pal
Thanks again mate!
I'm thinking to change the crankshaft pulley on my e60 because it has a rattling sound on idle and also when i accelerate a little bit . I was wondering if i let the car in first gear I'm not able to get the pulley out without using the special tool ?
Good idea!, question is, can +400nM through the gear chain move the car while you are trying to torque it up?
As the crankshaft has lots of inertial, cant you just use a impact wrench to torque upto a maximum output of 500Nm without locking it?
No. The bolt is a torque to yield bolt (like a head bolt), and has to be tightened by a specific sequence. I am sure it will hold if tightened by an impact, though.
How do you stop the engine from turning as soon as I try that big bolt it turns engine. It’s an automatic
With the pulley locking tool. Search on ebay or aliexpress. I got mine from aliexpress for about 40 euros.
Is it wrong if you move the pulley with no belt like half a turn or so ?
No, it just rotates the engine
George, your videos helped a lot, as someone commented, no BMW channel can compete anymore
I was wondering if you could tell which breaker bar did you use, 1/2 or 3/4? And did you use any glue or something else on that bolt?
Thanks and keep going strong mate
Nothing else needed on the bolt, breaker bar just use the biggest you can find and an extension bar because you’ll need it
@@GeorgeAusters i only have 1/2, i hope it will be enough. Extension bar is a must, of course
As per the manual, a 3/4 inch drive tool should be used. But I released with a 1/2 bar.
Bonjour référence marques arret d'huile polies denpaire Svp
Be interested to see some of theis M47/M57 work actually done on an M57 engined car.
Although the M47 seems like a cutdown version of the M57 it isn't and there are numerous differences between the two (apart from the number of cylinders thats is).
I’m sure I’ll do an M57 engine at some point!
I did it the pulley replace job on my m57n2 engine. Did it all without any special tools. Even removed and installed the stretchbelt again with just a rope and rotating the pulley by hand. Stopped the rotation by jamming the pulley with breaker bar(or anything) on ground to the center on pulley to unbolt and torque. That actually was lot easier than i feared.
Thanks for the video George! Thinking about doing mine as the rubber looking cracked now. What about leaving it in gear? or it would just move the car slowly lol
Won’t hold it unfortunately👍🏻
If anyone had difficulty taking off, then you can get a friend to hold the brakes in gear if it is a manual transmission. The car can be put into 1st or reverse. Will the clutch slip? No, because it is normally rated for more torque than what you'll be able to put on the little bolt.
When you install the bolt, you can put engine oil onto the treads to lower the required torque by 40 percent.
We trying this at Min but we can't get that main bolt out got breaker bar and scaffold bar on it too is it opposite thread or owt it's a m57 engine manual
Nope it’s a standard thread, just very tight
Good job Bro
Thank you man!
Hi Georges, great video for my current project. Just a point who is not clear for me please. Do you first lock it with Nm key, and you add additionnal torque, right?
on my car I got to the stage where the special tool was needed and didn't have one. so locked it of as well as I could and tightened it up to 60 then it slipped lost my place and punched the frame. tightened it a little more and did it again at that point my hand was bleeding and decided that was "to spec"
Hahahaha ffs! I think that was likely the case with the previous one too as that was definitely not tight enough!
How did you make the tool iv got same problem
My dad machined it👍🏻
Iv bought the tool mate iv got a e87 with the m47 engine had me and a friend try and its not moving at all broke a breaker bar in process
Any tips or advice would be much appreciated
Would you consider hiring out that tool that your old man fabricated? Looks way more substantial than the tool you can buy. I need to do this over the next few weeks.
Noy actually sure where it is now if i'm being honest!
Nice job George 👏
Thanks 👍
Is there any issue tightening it to specs in low temperatures
Betw 0 and 10C?
Im barely reaching 50degrees angle
You need a longer bar to lever with
@@GeorgeAusters its like you said
I feel like something from those explosion memes is going to happen
@@GeorgeAusters one of the more nerve racking things ever
I have just finished
After 3 day torture
Reached 149degrees and had enough when the special tool fell out bcoz the walls of the pulley and the tool are slanted not 90degrees angle
There is NO WAY i would have reached the final stage without greasing the entire shit with graphite grease
I had to use 2pipes 1.5meters long
One for countering with special tool and to lever the tool in the pulley
And other pipe for 22mm socket
For comparison vw golf 4 from 2000 with 85kw for the pulley first stage 60Nm 2nd stage 60degrees
With the golf having waaaay better acceleration and 25Nm more torque from engine
I would know bcoz i own both
Do not bolt in the pulley w/out greasing!!!
The bolt is not supposed to be greased
@@GeorgeAusters ocean going cargo ships main engine cylinders are bolted down with huge bolts
Bolts are greased or oiled
And then bolts are tightened with special hydraulic tools
The tightening force is massive which is no surprise
I know that from proffesional experience
Effects of metal on metal friction is well known
What is surprising the force for this engine when an engine with more torque output uses only 60Nm and finaly 60degrees
Cheapest pulley lasted me about 1 year, ~25 000 km.
Yep not worth it
Hi mate I have the crank pulley on my 335d 4 bolts my mechanic is saying you don't need to lock the engine if he uses an impact to take it off and torque it back on? Is that correct when putting it back on?
You will need to to torque the bolts up or it’ll likely spin
@@GeorgeAusters can this be done without locking the engine pal
I know this car is an auto, but if it was a manual, would putting her in 6th, and putting on the handbrake work?
Not a chance at this torque
Well done mate
Cheers mate
did the engine bushings survived that thithening ? :D
Yes just about
Glad that came off easily mister, deffo not the right torque and if they're tight 3/4 impact with a little heat is the only reliable way. It'd laugh at 1/2 breaker bars ;)
Decent locking tool, ya auld man did ya well
Yeah don't think it was torqued up properly but think this impact wrench could undo it as it has over 1000nm breakaway torque
Autodoc gloves???
People say scrap it I say keep brother.
It's definitely not getting scrapped lol
Defo wasn't 350nm to 380, either that or was undone for the camera in advance
My guess is that it wasn't torqued up properly before as this pulley was not the original
Good video👍🏼
Thanks 👍
What is the qualitiy of thoose pulley? Is the good for the price?
Very good
Ok guys as you can see, as you know dat dese common common problems. Ive just jad a company contact me to send me one of dese to ree view. As you guys know.
Best thing is i told people that a certain company is sending me a digital dash free to reeeview for dem but someone asked the company on there channel and they said they dont have any intention to send anything 😂
Shows how bad he is with his new video i put that exact ugdo android screen in my car over a year ago and it literally takes 20mins max just plug and play. And hes saying it was really intense and took him 7 hours to fit. Theres loads of install videos on here showing how simple and quick it is even though he says its not being released until he says so 😂 and rhat his is the first video. I think he lies that much that he actually believes it
The beginning of the video is hilarious looks like someone reboots him. just dont watch more than 20 seconds or your eyes start to bleed
No bro dese are straight from nasa mandems and der waiting for my reee view my friend befor goi g ahead and selling them to you guys dat av dese cars as you guys know
@@bmwdocta9046 Haha you talk better than he does to be fair
I have m18 milwaukee, and cant loosen with that 😂😂😂😂😂
I needed a 1 inch gun with powerful diesel compressor and very strong 22mm socket to remove mine. What a nightmare.
The dewalt is a beast
Mine just went today😭, torn off
Very common issue
@@GeorgeAusters Hi George, so having a nightmare with this bolt. My local garage cant get the thing off, theyve tried heating up the bolt, blocking the fly wheel, using the crankpulley tool against the sub frame and using a breaker bar with no joy. The teeth have torn on the crank pulley also for the tool.
Any tips or other methods you could suggest?
@@theeroom Do they not have a big impact wrench?
@@GeorgeAusters yeah sorry forgot to mention they tried a 1100N impact gun on it 😞.
May cut the bolt off and drill into it?
Did it have full charge? The bolt should only be around 400nm
Engine is making 300nm, all you have to do is put it in gear and tighten the bolt.
Lol try it then
M57 has 4 bolts not just one not the same procedure
I think the earlier ones just have 1
I think the earlier ones just have 1
I think it was wobly because they didnt torque it down properly when installing. Looked too easy to remove
Good chance yes
No loctite??
No need if torqued properly
way too easy😂
Heads up, the crank shaft pulley bolt will never come loose as easy as you just witnessed. That bolt had definitely been slacked off prior to the video. Get your wife to hop in the drivers seat with her 8st body weight pressed against the brake pedal and put it in 4th gear and get your self a 6ft scaffold bar and 5 men to lever it off. I have had to.burn them with with oxy burner before now. Good luck, dont be fooled by this false video.
Wrong.. It wasn't loosened prior
I released the original bolt (car is 17 years old) with a breaker bar and extension by locking the flywheel by the teeth. It was tough, but definitely doable with both hands pulling hard on the bar ;)
That's why it's called the Jesus bolt.
😂😂😂😂😂😂
this is the reason i dont like diesel cars ,all the time some "special " things to be done to them ,plain petrol engine and no worries ;)
Hahaha