ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ม.ค. 2024
- Hi everyone!
In today’s video:
- tiny pedal adjustments,
- new (not drilled) Heusinkveld Sprint elastomers installation,
- wobbling elimination (early produced pedals),
- easy calibration method in DiView.
My goal here was to compile key information in one place, with cost-effective and easy solutions.
Let me know in the comments if I succeeded.
Excel file for calibration you can download from my Patreon page:
/ 97618359
You can also get stl files of discs and washers here:
/ 99852233
And if you are looking for thread adapter, you can try this one: M8-M10 L20
a.aliexpress.com/_EuvSVO5
If you want to support this channel you can also consider small tip:
paypal.me/MrEverlost
Thanks for watching and see you next time 🙌 - เกม
![SIMSONN Pro Pedals [REVIEW] My new favourite budget racing pedals!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZPUvVQ_qq0g/mqdefault.jpg)
![SIMSONN Pro Pedals [REVIEW] My new favourite budget racing pedals!](/img/tr.png)
Good job my friend ,I still love the Heusinkveld upgrade thanks to you👍👊🤘
Great video and modifications!
Świetna robota, tak trzymaj👌👌
Very good suggestions, I like the new feel with these changes. One suggestion is to check the dampers. On my set of pedals one of mine was not functioning properly. I was able to order a replacement.
super poradnik!
Also need to consider the VNM brake kit for SJ Pro. That's probably the best bet for most folks.
If they has 10mm hole than it’s easiest solution. I just tested HE elastomers from sprint kit, me and maybe 5-6 other users I know and they are super happy.
I don’t know what HE change in latest elastomers but in older products they used elastomers like VNM actually does.
Amazing video thank you. I just have a question to ask, when I removed my brake rod to switch the elastomers the back metal plate that locks it in the groves was a very tight fit and didn’t seem to go in at all, I think it needed to be filed down just ever so slightly. I taped it on both sides with a wrench to make it flush. Do you think I did any damage to the load cell by lightly taping it on both sides with the metal wrench? Everything feels fine and now the metal goes in nicely but still tight. Might just be paranoid. Not sure how sensitive the load cell is, but I mean we do smack the brake pretty hard so I’m sure it able to withstand some abuse.
The easiest way to check is by connecting pedals to a computer and testing brake. I'm not sure if you damaged anything, but I've heard that this part is very tightly fitted in the new SimJacks. I don't understand why, but that's how they designed it. There's little tolerance in that area, which is why removing it isn't as easy as in mine or in the HE Ultimate. You might want to gently grind down that plate if you want remove it easier in future 🤔
Thank you. Where do I get the break mod? Link please
I gave all data about the brake shaft dimmensions for suppliers like SimJack and Ruito - maybe they will make from it something like „upgrade kit”. I had some spare parts of it when I modified my brake but all this parts are gone now.
You can buy thread adapter from AliExpress, HE sprint elastomers from Heusinkveld, m8x180 stainess steel screw and stainess steel nut (like original one but m8). You may also need to extend m8 screw thread up to 40-45mm lenght.
It’s require a bit of work but I saw too many people who change other „kits” available for SJP and they end with something from HE, I mean this sprint kit or Ultimate + upgrade kit. Not cheapest, not easiest, but belive worth it 🙃
what's the size of the 'spacer' washers? (ID OD 0.2mm thickness)?
14/20mm, yes in my case it was 0.2mm thickness but it is no rule, so I recommend buying also 0.1 and 0.3mm. Also it is good to unscrew whole pedal from pedal base and mount them back after tweak. Wobbling is because first SimJacks had longer pivot distance than width between bushings. Before you buy 14/20mm check if you be able to pull bushing from the lever. Like I said it’s easy to damage (this bushings) so be careful and if you can’t remove them just buy 10/18 and use them as manufacturer- between bushing and bottom pedal base. Lever + bushing + washers must have same width as pivot distance, or a little bit more.
And also why DiView over FreeJoy? Any particular reason?
No reason. I started with DiView, it worked for me and I stay with it. There is something other than FreeJoy and if I’m correct looks more advanced but can’t remind the name of this software
Dxtweak? Maybe@@MR.EVERLOST
which is the dimensions of washers? tks!
You can get stls from Patreon. Each part here has specific dimmensions.
спасибо за видео! но у меня вопрос, как вы поставили минус перед цифрами!??
Minus was copied and pasted 😀
hello where did you buy the 8mm axle
Custom order in factory. You can make 8mm shaft from stainless steel screw m8 x180, cut them, and extend thread to at least 40mm 🙃
HE shaft has 8.3mm, mine is also 8.3mm but screws like that could have less diameter like 7.7-8mm and it is totally fine.
thank you very much I found that I am missing more than the dimensions of the spring
@@krismont6383 spring is not easy to clone. You can consider venym spring or just use elastomers without spring. Like I said in the video this tiny gap is nice but you can live without it 😀
just stick with the standard 10mm (simjack mini has 8mm shaft, regular simjack is 10.3mm) and remove the stock spring. but a venom HPF skateboard bushing in whatever shore rating you want (80 is a good stard) and fit it on.
you may need to drill the skateboard bushing a big bigger to fit the shaft. start with 11mm bit, if it still wont fit drill again with 12mm bit.
theres no need to buy expensive HE gear when a $10 skateboard bushing will improve feel.
What are those faceplates?
My custom ones 😅
@@MR.EVERLOST they look great! How much it cost you to make them?
@@nemastau around 22-23€, I have one extra set which needs to be sanded and finished but nobody wants to take it because of high cost of shipping which is totally understandable 🤷🏻♂️
@@MR.EVERLOST where you at and I wonder how much shipping would be to Lithuania.
@@nemastau write to me on IG or FB I’ll show you how it looks.
Dzisiaj przyszły ale mam problem z kontrolerem którego DIView w ogóle nie wykrywa. Ani DIView ani freejoy ani windowsowy kontroler
Napisz do producenta najlepiej. Strasznie dziadowski ten sterownik bo co któraś osoba ma ten problem ostatnio. Mam wrażenie że coś namotali w sterowniku od momentu pojawienia się go w czarnej obudowie.
@@MR.EVERLOST okazało się że musze wpiąć USB bezpośrednio w płytę główną a nie we front panel. Co najlepsze jak wpiąłem pod usb 2.0 to też nie wykrywało dopiero pod usb 3.0
@@ClosedEyeVisual polecam ci ogólnie wszystkie urządzenia simowe podłączać do aktywnego huba USB, np Uniteka. Tak samo dobrze jest uziemić pedały - sam będę to niedługo robił. Gnd z płytki na pedal hamulca. Zobacz jak polecą to zrobić Heusinkveld. Myślę, że w tym wypadku też to da dobre rezultaty i obejdzie się bez filtrów USB
@@MR.EVERLOST akurat w moim przypadku nie wiem czy uziemienie jest konieczne gdyż nie dysponuje pełnym rigiem. Kiera TM przymocowana jest do biurka a pedały na podłodze na dwóch profilach zapartych o ścianę😄
@@MR.EVERLOST Could you make a video showing how to do it??