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Im printing without cooling so supports helps a lot here 👌

Ogólnie chciałem, żeby się wygodniej wsiadało 😀 ale w sumie nie wiele to zmienia. W każdym razie odległość kierownicy od reszty jest teraz idealna, więc bądź co bądź zwycięstwo 😅

Like I said, quality of stock bushing is bad. When you play a bit on wobbling pedals you could make it weaker, that’s why they was broken. Bearings is good move if center hole diameter is the same diameter as tightening screw.

This was the last one. Love this project but it’s too time consuming for me. I’m just simple hobbyst 😀 Write me on PM /IG or FB, I’ll try to help you.

For this price it’s very good choice. After installing HE elastomer kit and preload clone spring from the Ultimates they are perfect for me 😉

It require hard mounting. Even stock brake will be too hard to keep it on the floor

Sure :) with credits sounds great 😀

Clutch could need „<„ „>” signs adjustments depends on inverted pedals or not. Version 2.1 is better for cars with steering wheel shifters and 2.2 probably for H gearboxes. Actually don’t have to much time to work on it but maybe when finish my other project will back to it again.

Thank you 😀 yesterday I watched Philips hue and govee lamp configurations and don’t know, this looks better for me and is a lot cheaper…

I will always go for the cheap and home made 😁💪👍👊🤘

@@MR.EVERLOST Hi,got one question can i do 2 ledstrips of 60 and 1 of 40 or do i have to adjust the sketch then?

@@willemvanesdonk8577 this power supply can handle safety 180leds, so you can use less LEDs but you need to know how to connect data cable because it’s one direction signal. You also need to know that more LEDs in sketch = more blocks on the screen to adjust. It could be more time consuming to adjust it to specific car 😀

@@MR.EVERLOST ok thanks for the info👍

Hi. Try to remove two IF functions related to clutch behaviour. You will find it in „script.lua”, „- other” section.

I updated resources, you can download it again and check if the problem persists. Current version is now 2.1.

The shift problem happened to me aswell. Gonna try to solve it as recommended.

@@Clay_Regazzoni I try to add hotfix of it today. Ian fix it by removing part responsible for this issue and sent me corrected code. It was probably part which move gear to N in some conditions.

@@Clay_Regazzoni Done. Try to download version v2.2 and let us know how it works now 👀

Textured paint

@@MR.EVERLOST Sweet, thanks for the reply 👍

It should be off after installing start engine mod. Did you use first version or second? Don’t know why some people have problems with version 2.0. If it 2.0 try 1.0.

@@MR.EVERLOST i tried but it didn't help

@@user-nz4oq9ck3e so if v1.0 don’t work too, the problem is on the car side or AC or you missed something. You need to install both scripts, sound and script lua as in the instructional video, and remove old data acd. You may check the scripts - I don’t remember but if there is something connected to rpm - it should have idle rpm of your car. Default was 900 idle rpm because I made it for Porsche 2016 GT3 R. If you install it to this car it should work instantly. Don’t have access to computer now so can’t check it for you. You can write to me on FB or IG or Patreon.

Hi. 5:56 - there is cable connector on the bottom of the enclosure 😬 maybe one day I will try with wireless but for now all my projects was cable connection

​@@MR.EVERLOST No I mean do you connect it to pc directly by a USB or u connect it to your wheel base if so the how ?

@@TechBabu801 no, I connect it directly to PC. VRS don’t have communication connection like BT or USB

Minus was copied and pasted 😀

Coś pięknego wrócić do ACC. Teraz tylko wyczuć wszystko i setupy poogarniać 😅

I've thought about it many times, but I spoke with someone who measured this box, and we agreed that it's too valuable of a project to just let it go around on the internet... 😬🤷🏻‍♂️

But you can download similar to my v2 version from the cults 😀

I've thought about it many times, but I spoke with someone who measured this box, and we agreed that it's too valuable of a project to just let it go around on the internet... 😬🤷🏻‍♂️

@@MR.EVERLOST no problem, love the projects and if you don't ask you won't know anything :) Thanks.

With code provided In anti lag mod you should make it easy 😀 all crucial formulas is there. Now it’s just adjusting for own purposes. But if we talking about AC app - I would like to have it like that but I don’t know how to build them. I more 3D designer than app or scrip designer. Making all these mods working like that, I mean ignition, stall, start engine and anti lag took me lots of hours 🥲

@@MR.EVERLOST I shall give it a try! I would be willing to pay if you made one but yeah I shall try myself :) Keep up the great work man 😁

It’s probably better way if you can make it directly in SFX but maybe this script could be helpful to achieve anti-lag behavior. I’m pretty sure it is possible to play this sounds from sound bank instead of mp3 files from extension. Otherwise is also nice that anybody can use custom mp3 files just swapping them in extension folder.

Ma façon de faire est meilleure mais la tienne est activable et desactivable. Pas moi. Et moi je dois recréer le son moteur complet de la voiture alors que toi simplement l'antilag donc à ce niveau c'est mieux pour toi. Un conseil que je fais, l'antilag consiste à garder la pression du turbo en charge. Je modifie le turbo lag down dans engine.ini pour qu'il reste en charge. Si tu peux faire ça dans ton script, ca serait génial. Ton turbo resterait en charge comme en vraie

@@RcSimracing yeah, I know that’s why I called it „fake” 😅but script keeps the car on specific rpm range truly

​@@MR.EVERLOST c'est une très bonne idée ce que tu as fait. Il faut juste trouver comment l'améliorer. Je suis sûr que c'est faisable avec un .lua d'intégrer le lag du turbo du fichier engine.ini

Prague

The easiest way to check is by connecting pedals to a computer and testing brake. I'm not sure if you damaged anything, but I've heard that this part is very tightly fitted in the new SimJacks. I don't understand why, but that's how they designed it. There's little tolerance in that area, which is why removing it isn't as easy as in mine or in the HE Ultimate. You might want to gently grind down that plate if you want remove it easier in future 🤔

Added everything to description. You are too fast 😅

45 🙃

It was great journey and I meet a lot of great people because of this 😀 now I have newer version of this builded so close to original one and I use it a lot 😀

You can get stls from Patreon. Each part here has specific dimmensions.

If I find this design I will put them on my Patreon. I left from Thingiverse and Cults 🙂

TY, but now I recomend change brake shaft to m8 and use HE elastomers directly from the box. You will find video about it in my channel 👌

I gave all data about the brake shaft dimmensions for suppliers like SimJack and Ruito - maybe they will make from it something like „upgrade kit”. I had some spare parts of it when I modified my brake but all this parts are gone now. You can buy thread adapter from AliExpress, HE sprint elastomers from Heusinkveld, m8x180 stainess steel screw and stainess steel nut (like original one but m8). You may also need to extend m8 screw thread up to 40-45mm lenght. It’s require a bit of work but I saw too many people who change other „kits” available for SJP and they end with something from HE, I mean this sprint kit or Ultimate + upgrade kit. Not cheapest, not easiest, but belive worth it 🙃

Of course :) www.patreon.com/posts/99852233

Few days ago Peter share app which work globally. I don’t have time to try it so don’t know how it works but for sure looks more promising. This what I provided required install and adjust for each car separately. Here you can check Peter work: www.patreon.com/posts/100470755?

Good feeling with only springs system is hard to achieve. That’s why for example VRS use special lever which change progressives of the spring. But with you luck with this idea 😀 Maybe one day I will build whole pedal set again but for now I want to focus on racing 😅 diy took to much of my attention in last two years. Thanks for sub 🙌

Napisz do producenta najlepiej. Strasznie dziadowski ten sterownik bo co któraś osoba ma ten problem ostatnio. Mam wrażenie że coś namotali w sterowniku od momentu pojawienia się go w czarnej obudowie.

@@MR.EVERLOST okazało się że musze wpiąć USB bezpośrednio w płytę główną a nie we front panel. Co najlepsze jak wpiąłem pod usb 2.0 to też nie wykrywało dopiero pod usb 3.0

@@ClosedEyeVisual polecam ci ogólnie wszystkie urządzenia simowe podłączać do aktywnego huba USB, np Uniteka. Tak samo dobrze jest uziemić pedały - sam będę to niedługo robił. Gnd z płytki na pedal hamulca. Zobacz jak polecą to zrobić Heusinkveld. Myślę, że w tym wypadku też to da dobre rezultaty i obejdzie się bez filtrów USB

@@MR.EVERLOST akurat w moim przypadku nie wiem czy uziemienie jest konieczne gdyż nie dysponuje pełnym rigiem. Kiera TM przymocowana jest do biurka a pedały na podłodze na dwóch profilach zapartych o ścianę😄

@@MR.EVERLOST Could you make a video showing how to do it??

Just use fake ignition version from provided files. Than you can start the car without ignition sound but if you want play this ignition sound you can - that’s why it’s „fake” 😅

@@MR.EVERLOST Okay i tried the fake ignition. Your v1 works. The v2 is broken. In everycar i cannot shift with v2 and the car is stopped...

@@SagnolTheGangster I will check it later - probably next week. I tested all versions before upload so this is interesting 🧐 It happened with v2 fake ignition only?

@@MR.EVERLOST Yup, i havent tested the normal ignition though. V1 works like a charm.

@@SagnolTheGangster check this mods with 911 GT3-R 2016 from Kunos. I try to check it too next week if find some free time