Use stainless steel tubing and heat to make realistic heat-stained headers and exhaust pipes. Due to a reply below, I have to list a link in this description. www.TedsModelingMarketplace.com
Great video. I never thought of using stainless for exhaust. What a great idea,and you are right,nothing like real burnt pipes to represent burnt pipes. Now I need to figure it out in 1/12 scale for motorcycles also. Take care
Thanks. Like you, I'm always trying to think of something different. Plus I can't paint the coloration like some others. You can't beat this for realisim. Thanks for the comment.
Sorry for the late response, Captain. The flange is from the funny car kit. I drilled a hole in each outlet and inserted a rod which is the same OD as the SS header piple ID. Each pipe would slide over the rod for added strength. Thanks for the question and email me if you have more.
Great video Ted, the headers look sic! I was wondering if you have scratch built a rear differential, and if you have would you be willing to share. Thanks
I would like to build something that was just more than styrene. Like your headers, there is nothing like metal mixed with styrene. I was thinking of cutting the axel tubs off and then running a shaft through the 3rd member. Im not sure how to build the 3 link or 4 link setup to tie it to the car. Does that make sence?
Dan Anderson It makes total sense. The axle tubes can easily be made from aluminum, brass or stainless steel. The problem is it would normally be painted and then you wouldn't know it's real metal. Real metal makes perfect sense when it remains bare - like headers, suspension parts (tie rods, links, arms), wheels, drive shaft, wheelie bars etc. There are a few aftermarket people making excellent metal 4-link plates and brackets that would work perfectly with stainless or aluminum rods for the bars. Email me if you want to discuss this further, as some people may not be interested in our conversations (TedsModeling@gmail.com). Thanks again, Dan.
I have charts and tables that convert 1:1 sizes to scales from 1/25 to 1/8 at my online store. Click on the tab (across the top of the screen) called 'LINKS, TECH & INFO' For instance, a 2" exhaust pipe at 1/12 scale would be .167" (4.24mm). It would fall between 5/32" and 3/16". Now it's a matter of finding that size SS tubing. Hope this helps. Let me know how your's turns out. The link is listed in the video description above.
Hey Ted, well I've made a set for a FC Hemi motor, but the flange U used to attach the tubes with is non existent. Any suggestions on what I should use to secure them to motor?? I bought some Soldier that does a good job sticking & securing SS & Alum, so I will probably use that to attach one of those bars U see towards the end of the pipes on the street side... it's the motor side that I'm scratching my head about??🤔🤔Any suggestions R appreciated as always... The headers are for the MPC Hot Rod 72 FC Mustang or the Revell FC just like it.. both stock kit headers are exactly the same... Thanks, LEBIII
Your headers look a lot better and a lot more realistic than the kit headers ever could. Awesome technique. Thank you for sharing this.
Great video. I never thought of using stainless for exhaust. What a great idea,and you are right,nothing like real burnt pipes to represent burnt pipes. Now I need to figure it out in 1/12 scale for motorcycles also. Take care
Thanks, Scotty. I like your coverage of the model shows. The close ups and long frame-times make is easy to pick out details.
those headers look nuts! my next hot rod is gonna look so cool...
Max Power hbg
thanks for the idea man that engine is goin to look real
Thanks for sharing. Great idea
Thanks. Like you, I'm always trying to think of something different. Plus I can't paint the coloration like some others. You can't beat this for realisim. Thanks for the comment.
Love the heat stain sick looking
Sorry for the late response, Captain. The flange is from the funny car kit. I drilled a hole in each outlet and inserted a rod which is the same OD as the SS header piple ID. Each pipe would slide over the rod for added strength.
Thanks for the question and email me if you have more.
Great technique. I cant believe this video got any thumbs down
Love your tips and techniques keep it up!!!
Nice job! Going to make set for 1/16th car . Going to silver solder to the flange.
Your camera sounds like you got a room full of photographers taking pictures!😉📸📸📸📸📸heavy duty 420 you say???
Excellent video of your excellent idea!
Very interesting. 1/8th inch tube bender and 1/8th tube, blowtorched.
Hey, Neo, I hope you meant 'such'!?!?!
Thanks. Always appreciated.
GREAT TIP!!!,,THANK YOU!!!
nice job
Great tip thanks for sharing!
Thanks for sharing............
Ted,
I wanted to know where you got the stainless steel tube that you used to make your headers
AWESOME!!!!
Thanks. I appreciate it.
Thanks for the comments, guys. I appreciate you looking and telling me what you think.
awesome! what did you use for the flange?
Great video Ted, the headers look sic! I was wondering if you have scratch built a rear differential, and if you have would you be willing to share.
Thanks
Thanks for the comment Dan, I've scratched a rear end, but that's another story. I haven't scratch-built a rear. What do you have in mind?
I would like to build something that was just more than styrene. Like your headers, there is nothing like metal mixed with styrene. I was thinking of cutting the axel tubs off and then running a shaft through the 3rd member. Im not sure how to build the 3 link or 4 link setup to tie it to the car. Does that make sence?
Dan Anderson It makes total sense. The axle tubes can easily be made from aluminum, brass or stainless steel. The problem is it would normally be painted and then you wouldn't know it's real metal. Real metal makes perfect sense when it remains bare - like headers, suspension parts (tie rods, links, arms), wheels, drive shaft, wheelie bars etc. There are a few aftermarket people making excellent metal 4-link plates and brackets that would work perfectly with stainless or aluminum rods for the bars. Email me if you want to discuss this further, as some people may not be interested in our conversations (TedsModeling@gmail.com).
Thanks again, Dan.
can achieve the same look with an airbrush, shoot the plastic header dirty silver, mix real reduced metallic blue then purple or magenta, dirty yellow
I have charts and tables that convert 1:1 sizes to scales from 1/25 to 1/8 at my online store. Click on the tab (across the top of the screen) called 'LINKS, TECH & INFO' For instance, a 2" exhaust pipe at 1/12 scale would be .167" (4.24mm). It would fall between 5/32" and 3/16". Now it's a matter of finding that size SS tubing. Hope this helps. Let me know how your's turns out.
The link is listed in the video description above.
What size of stainless steel tube did you use
Where did you get your tube bender
HI, WHERE DID YOU GET THE FLANG TO MOUNT THE HEADER ON ???
If you heat-stain something using my technique, post it here so we can see it. Maybe you'll find a shortcut or a way to do it easier/faster. Thanks.
I know. I'm just messing with you.
Sorry buddy yes I meant such lol sorry again
مافي همت
I don't know what that means, but I hope it's good. If not, don't translate it for me.
Hey Ted, well I've made a set for a FC Hemi motor, but the flange U used to attach the tubes with is non existent. Any suggestions on what I should use to secure them to motor?? I bought some Soldier that does a good job sticking & securing SS & Alum, so I will probably use that to attach one of those bars U see towards the end of the pipes on the street side... it's the motor side that I'm scratching my head about??🤔🤔Any suggestions R appreciated as always... The headers are for the MPC Hot Rod 72 FC Mustang or the Revell FC just like it.. both stock kit headers are exactly the same...
Thanks, LEBIII