These are the Parts and Tools needed to complete this job: Latest Spark Plugs- amzn.to/2qa8vKD Dielectric Grease- amzn.to/2ramOTQ Nickel Anti-Seize- amzn.to/2qd6xsh 9/16" Spark Plug Socket- amzn.to/2qdcOEt Long Reach Air Wand- amzn.to/2rtXvMe Spark Plug: Torque Spec- 106 inch lbs Gap Spec- .041"
Brian- just a question about using anti seize on the threads- assuming someone bought one new and almost immediately pulled the plugs and coated the threads with antI seize as sort of a early preventive maintenance would that be something worth doing rather than wait say 3 or more years and having so much trouble getting them out safely and intact?
dmoney8766 I believe the black were used until mid-2008, ford switched to brown end of 2008 and above when they changed spark plug design. This is what I’ve read.
FordTechMakuloco can anyone please answer this question. I have a 2009 Lincoln townxar that needs new spark plugs. Does this year have the redesigned spark plugs? Or does the 09 towncar spark plugs break
I’m a retired Ford Senior Master (ret 2007) and you just demonstrated how I always have replaced plugs on any engine! 50 years in the business and glad to see someone teaching the correct procedure!
Thanks so much for making your terrific video. I've been dreading replacing spark plugs in my '08 F150 for 25K miles! Then I come across your vid and learn the broken spark plug issues that plagued the 2004-2008, 3 valve engines were fixed in later year 2008 5.4's. I watched a dozen vids getting ready to tackle broken plug problems, even bought the Lisle tool before tackling mine, but you were the only one who recognized that brown coil boots meant you had the new designed heads and regular "normal" spark plugs. Imagine my relief when I pulled that first coil and it had brown plug boots!!!! Two hours later, after a trip to O'Reilly to trade for some new model, much cheaper plugs, the job is done and my blood pressure has returned to normal. Hat's off to you for taking the time to make and post your vid!!! THANKYOU!!!
Loll..I have a trip coming up and I was feeling the same. Glad to have found out we're in the safe year. Mine is long over due but now I'm feeling better about it
Same here. I bought a used, low mileage 2012 Lincoln Navigator L, which is the identical cousin to the Ford Expedition. Everything under the body and the engine bay is identical. Based on so many TH-cam videos about the horrors of the plugs on the 5.4 Ltr. V8, I was dreading the day when plugs need to be changed. I've always changed my own plugs for the past five and a half decades and hated the proposition that I'd have to have the dealer do it. I will pull the coils this week to confirm that I have those wonderful brown boots and then I'll be able to rest easy until I swap the plugs next month. Thanks.
I’ve been putting off changing the plugs on my wife’s 2013 expedition until I watched your video I thought they had had those shit plugs. I went and changed them just now! Thank you!
I'm so glad I found this video. I have a '14 Expedition and I'm being quoted $300 to change the plugs because of the engine size. Nice to know it was updated in 08, to bad all the local mechanics have no idea.
Brian is a rarity in today's World of parts changers. He actually learns and understands what is occurring, why, and how to fix it. When I started back in 1974 as a GM Tech we were taught how each part/system worked, how to diagnose, and how to repair. It has need a few decades since techs were taught this, so he is rare indeed.
Many of these modern systems have no serviceable or replaceable parts. The parts are designed to be made by robots or automated equipment. If it fails, the only action possible is to replace the bad part/unit. The dealership would require hundreds of thousands of dollars in advanced equipment to attempt repairs.
@@johnferguson7235 The other issue is the amount of time involved in doing detailed diagnostics. A guy doing warranty work doesn’t want to spend all day trying to diagnose a condition when he’s getting paid for a fraction of that time.
a good little trick to getting those plugs started, if your socket doesn't have an insert, is use a length of fuel line. stick over the plug, lower it in the hole, twist it a few turns, and pull it out. works like a charm!
16:44 Yes! But I use PBlaster instead of WD40 I have found that it works best to spray let set 5 minutes - loosen a little - spray a little - retighten a little - Loosen a little more ---- repeat until it turns freely
I changed out spark plugs in my 5.4 3 valve NO problem at all. Used wd-40 and backed out all plugs 2 turns. Replaced with Motor craft plugs useing a 90* 3/8 rachet and 14mm 12 pt. socket. No missing and better fuel mileage.
2010 Ford Explorer Sport Trac with a 4.6 V8 and 133 K miles. I was getting a rumble in what I thought was the transmission at around 40 mph when it called for just a bit of power. When it shifted down a gear it was fine, going down the highway, it was fine. But when cruising around town at 30 -45 mph on a feather throttle, I would get this " miss" or "rumble" I was looking around on TH-cam and found this video, along with a few others. I thought I would pull the plugs and give it a try. The last time I had changed ANY spark plugs was in my 68 Mustang 40 years ago! Using this video, step by step, using nothing more than new Motorcraft plugs, a 9/16" socket, a 7mm socket, assorted 3/8 and 1/4" ratchets and extensions, along with an air compressor and air wand...I did this job in my driveway in about 90 minutes. I had never been exposed to coil-over plugs or even fuel injector engines, but this video made the Trac run like new again! Thank you so much for this video! The only thing I did a bit differently was using a deep well 9/16 socket and put a layer of electrical tape on the open end of the socket. I left about a 1/2" of tape extend out from the socket and then folded it in and it held the spark plug in place with just that little bit of tape taking up the slack of the end of the socket. Thanks again!
Lifesaver, I have a 2008 Expedition Limited .. pulled that boot , had fingers crossed, and BAM! Mine is the "new" brown style. Both me & my mechanic were like Thank God!!! Lol
Thank you for this video. Saved me about $400! That is a good day any day. Very informative and love the step by step details. Perfect for anyone who is unsure about tackling this little project! THANk YOU!
Just to follow up on my earlier comment. Changed the plugs on the 2011 Expedition. 1.5 hours, start to finish. Only hitch was finding a 14mm spark plug socket. Thank you for posting this! Saved me $400 + 1 day lost time for the vehicle.
Thanks for this great video. I changed the plugs in my 2011 Expedition with 130,000 miles. Didn't run into any problems,, they all came out without any drama. It's hard to say if the plugs were done before I owned this thing, but they haven't been changed in the last 70.000ish miles, so it was time as they were pretty worn out.
Thank you soo much!! I just did mine today.. Following all your advices and similar tools.. ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Got my sparkplugs today from ebay.. And they worked perfectly.. I paid 40 bucks for them.. And thank God i had access to all these tools.. Took me 3 Hrs 😎☺.. Tip.. For the socket i couldn't fing a magnetic 1. I. Just put an electric black tape around the ring and it did an amazing job ☺.. May the lord bless you my friend.. Thank you!!
Thanks. Great video. I do like your technique of cleaning and recleaning with compressed air. I was surprised at how much came out after you pulled out the plug. Shows that that step is very necessary. I notice you don't mention checking the plug gap. We were taught to be very paranoid about that and not to trust the manufacturer too much.
I'm sure glad you made this video I just got done doing my VCT system and declined to change the spark plugs because I thought they would give me trouble now that I know they're the new design guess what I'm doing this weekend
I know you put it on the parts list below, but might want to add a flag on the video about using Nickel Anti-seize instead of Aluminum or Copper, which a lot of DIYers have most of the time. Just bought a 2010 F-150 5.4 3V with 112K and I really appreciate all the videos you've posted, they're a real help as I'm preparing to do all the 100K stuff (sparks, dif/TC oil/Power steering flush etc.). Thank you for these!
Lots of great Info on this and a few other users sites. One thing I JUST learned, if buying a motor that may have this issue, ask to check ALL PLUGS or at least pull the coil packs on all cylinders and check to make sure it actually has a full plug before starting. I'm the unhappy owner of a 5.4 Liter, that had 6 of 8 stock coils replaced with Accel coils, WELL, come to find out, 6 of 8 plugs WERE BROKEN OFF ALREADY!! Some slick mechanic figured out that, a higher voltage coil would just jump any gap and still spark what was left of each plug, I'm amazed the pieces didn't blow out over time, but now I'm the process of removing the electrodes & tips and starting over with new coils and Champion plugs, as I'll never even think of suffering thru this crappy Autolite plug design ever again. Also, ANY manufacturer that thinks plugs shouldn't be changed at 30K miles is just asking for bad maintenance and poor performance and fuel economy, as even double platinum plugs will burn .010 more of a gap in that amount of time.
OK, this instructional vid was the best one I found for my application, and he explained it perfectly. I have an 09 F150 w/4.6L 3valve. So I was also concerned whether or not my truck would have the problem spark plugs or not. They were the 1 piece plug with the brown boots, so that was a relief. I had to buy a 9/16" spark plug socket though, and ended up buying one through my local NAPA. It is a 6 point with the rubber insert, which I thought would be fine.. 1st 3 plugs on the right side came out and went back in without any drama. Rear plug , drivers side came out OK, SEEMED to go in OK, but the boot would not sit properly when I put it back it. Tried another boot from another cylinder..still..not proper. Hmm..Finally, looked in the spark plug socket,and the rubber insert came out of the socket and was still on the plug..in the rear right plug hole which I can't even see down. Fun.. I tried to put the socket back on, it wouldn't go because when pushed down, the insert would spread onto the spark plug hex. I tried needle nose hose end pliers, just a bit too short. Tried every pick I had, until I finally managed to pull the insert off the plug and out. The problem was the insert held the plug too tightly. So I reamed the insert out on the drill press at high speed, until it was sized to just hold the spark plug lightly enough to hold it as the plug was being lowered into the engine, but not hard enough to give any problems removing it. Once I did that, the rest of the job was A-OK. Just take this into consideration before doing this job.
Redlinesixtynine usually you wanna put some dielectric grease or even some oil on the plug *before* you put it in those spark plug sockets with the rubber sleeve. Especially when they are brand new and haven’t been used much.
@@moparcharger8642 Pretty good, reliable. I have 160k on it now. Ive always heard the phaser knocking, but it's not bad. Ive been using 5w-30 or 10w-30 since 90k thanks to these videos.
Great video instructions. Job went well and learned more about my truck in the process. Very surprised on how easily the new plugs installed by hand until the dead stop. I uninstalled and reinstalled twice to make sure this was accurate. Once hitting dead stop, applied 106 inch pounds. 2012 Ford Expedition | 104k miles. Thank you again!
Glad I found this video also, but of course too late. I had already bought a set of SP546 and the repair tool just in case. Talk about shocked when I pulled the first plug and realized life will be so much better without the stress of maybe breaking one. I am surprised I missed this video as I watched many by Makuloco. Thinking I had the other style I wanted to make sure I didn't Side Load a plug on removing. I used a 6" long plug socket and machined a bushing that fit the well in the head. I just didn't want to side load.
I was lucky! Bought all the parts (plugs, coils, plug remover tool etc), but I saw the date of motor on my 2008 f150 and returned to Amazon all the parts for the correct ones and saved $$$!Thanks for the videos!
That feel when installing the spark plug to me is always the crush gasket. You're really feeling for the eighth of a turn to crush that gasket on to the Head.
Knox Crider did this fix it? I have the same problem. Also i also have a 2010 4.6, is it the same as the 5.4 in the vid? Basically did they come out just as easy
@@The_table_242 yep problem solved, I made a video on my channel doing it and showing why it was acting the way it was, check it out!! And yes they came out perfectly fine just like a normal plug should.
Watched your video . At one point i was a firm believer that the plug tips could never fall into the cylinder until i experienced it first hand . I have since seen this multiple times and have yet to remove a cylinder head to get them out !!!
Have a '03 F-150 5.4 2v factory calls for 5w-20. I've been using Amsoil 0w-30 since day one, many engine builders recommend this. Also change coolant every spring. 60/40 distilled water w GO-5 Zerex. Stock air filter but rip out stock reducer in fender. Replace with 3 in. PVC. Called Gott intake mod. for F-150
I did the gotts mod and put a MagnaFlow in place of factory muffler added a gryphon programmer and the truck performs so much better and gets 3mpg better.
First of all, thank you for your response to my question. After watching several of your updated videos on the 2008 spark plug change, I am a bit confused...I DO have the black spark plug boots. I did have Ford change the plugs at 111,000 miles. I am assuming that if the boots were brown to start with, they would have replaced them with the same (maybe not?) Anyway, in one of your videos you insinuated that the late 2008 F 150 Tritons came with the the 3 plug computer array and bracket in the engine compartment - mine has this set up. Does THIS mean my truck has the newer plugs? Thank you for any info. Enjoy your vids. Excellent content. I worked as a Tech for Ford in the 80's. Much has changed since then. An old guy at the shop once told me, "If a car has gas, fuel and air, it'll run
@FordTechMakuloco my old man is looking into buying one of these trucks made before these upgrades (pre-2008) which do you think is more reliable? The 4.6 or 5.4?
late 2008, post September build engines got the new design (non-douchebag) spark plug, the engine in my 08 F150 was built 2 weeks before, and has the brown boots, with the douchebag spark plugs. most of my friends refuse to touch them, I love doing them, they're easy, induction cleaning kit, mix a little marvel mystery oil in with it, and put an impact gun to them while they're still hot, they come out no problems, no breakage. Let the heads cool down after, put the nickel never seize on them, torque to 25ft-lbs as per spec, have a nice day.
Hi, I had a question. I was changing my spark plugs on my 2006 Ford XLT 5.4L 3v engine. When i was blowing out the rubish in the spark plug hole i noticed a rubber gasket on the valve cover where the coil sits. The ones i had were pretty brittle and came out. I ask a ford dealer and auto part store and no one could find this part / o ring gasket. Heck the dealership part store couldn't find it on the computer diagram. Is this part necessary? Or those the new coils already have a seal to replace that o-ring gasket. I'm assuming it was extra protection from any type of fluid entering in. Since no one could find it i took the old one out because it was giving me problems intall the new coil pack tightly. Do you have any information or input on this? Thanks
What should the gap be on the spark plugs? I've heard they come "pre gapped" but still, what should the gap be to confirm I don't have a faulty spark plug? Using Double Platinum Motorcraft plugs. Excellent video by the way.
So if I have the brown boots I'll be fine? 2010 f150 5.4. Also I just did my exhaust manifold. Your video on that was a lot of help thank you for that! That was not an easy job Haha.
So since Ford has been using this crappy designed plug since 04 and now they have this new designed plug but only works on 08 to 14, why wouldn't this work for the 04-07? Just kinda confused since technically I should also be able to use this plug in my 05 5.4L. thanks for all the informative videos. Keep up the good work and information.
The heads are different. Threads in the heads are set up differently. If you look at the two spark plug designs side by side, you'll see that the older plug design not only uses a different size (larger) thread, but the spark plug reach is completely different as well. Even if the two plugs used the same thread diameter/pitch, the newer design would seat differently on the older heads...or may not even seat at all.
It's kind of like the M16/AR-15. When introduced it had major design/production issues, to say the least. Today, after over 50 years of revision, refinement, testing, adaptation, and experience, it's one of the most reliable and popular firearms systems in the world.
Okay so I'm old school with how I was taught to work on vehicles.. Replacing plugs meant replacing wires, distributor cap etc. With the electronic coil systems used today, does the coil not need to be replaced with a tuneup as well? Just plugs and done unless a coil fails?
Small tip, when the boots stick like that, spray a little silicone lube in the boot, and use a little compressed air. Usually pushes the lube around plug and separates boot from plug
Quick question: I have the 2008 Ford Expedition with the black boots. Can I replace the spark plugs with the new champion spark plug design. I didn't know about the new spark plug the last time I replaced my spark plugs. Going to replace plugs again. Thanks. Great video BTW.
Will the updated 5.4 engine from late 2008 to 13-14 fit an older truck such as an 04 to 08 f150 or Mark LT? Will the pcm work with those newer engines even if they where swapped into a truck a few years older?
Hi makuloco. Have you ever seen the plugs on the newer design come loose and give a tick/knock sound? I have brown boots on my 08’ and the tick sounds like it’s coming from underneath and not the valve train. Hope it’s not a roller follower and hoping just a loose plug. Stethoscope wasn’t able to pinpoint but sure sounds like the guys with vids that had loose plugs. Edit changed the plugs, which were very bad but the tick is still there.
a 1/4" peice of fuel line makes it easy to thread tge sparkplugs back in. also if you do use penetrating oil, just blow it out after the plug starts to get loose - that way it wont drip down into the cylinder. some contact cleaner for the plug and injector conectors is good to have as the could have dirt in them making them difficult to click back on.
I have this design spark plugs in my 2011 Expedition. However 7 out 8 seems to be seized... Bad luck I guess😅 Any additional tips on removing seized plugs on this particular engine?
I have a 2006 Ford Explorer Limited and want to change the spark plugs. However, I don't want to do it myself, i.e. the breakage issue. If I take it to the dealer, would I be financially responsible is they break a plug? or is that covered by them? Thanks! Love your channel!!!! PS where are the Doggies?
I'm very happy to see that FordTechMakuloco takes the time to do things correctly. Lots of hacks would just let that crap fall into the cylinder. I can understand not cleaning on engines that aren't prone to having garbage near the spark plug wells...but I've never seen one of these engines clean - even when they were relatively new. They collect debris all over the place!
Uuuuummmmm funny story. When I did this job to my 2010 I only had the blower peice for the air compressor but not the extended nozzle so I blew out all the dirt before I pulled each spark plug out and kept things nice and clean but on the very last spark plug I somehow managed to drop a price of electrical tape down into the cylinder and absolutely could not get it out >:( So after 15 min of trying to blow it out I just had to move on and hope it would burn off. After I started the truck, it started to smell bad in the cab after it warmed up. Go figure. But after the third time I drove it after doing plugs I never got the smell back again and the engine runs great. So I came out OK on this one but don't be stupid like me lol.
Thanks so much for the video. I bought a used 2004 f150 and it has newer model of spark plugs on it so im guessing engine was replaced with a late 2008 model. It has the black coil boots on it. Do I replace the coil boots alone to brown or replace a set of new brown boot coils?
Hi Makuloco! Thanks for the video. I have a question, in some forums the people tell 106 in-Lbs its to low and at risk to spit the sparks. What's your opinion? Thanks!
I agree 100% !!! My 2009 F150 : - Heat shields rust out at supports and rattle -ABS wiring rubbed against steering knuckle causing wires to fray -Rear (third) brake light water leak -Driver's side wheel bearing failure -Pinion seal leak -Original GoodYear Wranglers were sh!t !! -water leak at Sirius antenna All they care about is quantity ; not quality !!
The move for no Trans drain is from people not servicing them properly, wrong fluid, level or both.. causing more issues then they fixed. Now there is different Technology and most do not need the same amount of care for operation.
What part number spark plugs should i be looking for, 2007 expedition limited? Ive seen sp515, sp509,sp546, and sp432. Will you help me out with this? Thanks alot.
I have a 12 expedition with 76k miles, I like to do preventative maintenance before I have problems, is there a recommended mileage for spark plug replacement?
I just did my LATE 2007-08 F-150 5.4L And it had Motorcraft plugs and i needed 14MM sockit I got a S9714MKL Extra Long 14MM Snap On pluge socket And to a big serpris it had brown coil boots lucky me
Doing this for first time ever on my 2010 with almost 200,000 miles. Should I be worried about carbon buildup? Or can I just kinda get right into it like you are doing. Was thinking of running a little seafoam in my gas tank for a couple days but I won't if there's no good reason to. Thoughts?
Well for anyone who read this, I ran a cab of sea foam in my gas tank and a few weeks later I changed the plugs with 0 issues. I think I would've been just fine even without sea foam. Remember that that's even on the original plugs at close to 200k miles.
Tightened them like in the video but I didn't get so fussy with the 1/8 or 1/4 extra turn or however he does it. I just kinda got in there and tightened the suckers pretty good. Never put anti-seize on the threads either. I did use the NGK Iridium plugs as well. It completely fixed the misfire issue I was having. Just go for it, the plugs won't break, and it's not fussy like the 04-08 5.4's. Best advice I got.
The spark plug socket you recommended on here doesn’t work on the SP-509 sockets. It’s not deep enough. Going to have to return it and get my money back.
I took my 2010 F-150 XLT with the 5.4L 3V in to the shop because its now over 100k miles. Said I wanted a tuneup on it. They said they would do everything but the plugs. I asked why. They said because it was the Triton engine. So I went to 2 other places, they said the same thing. It goes to the dealer on Wednesday to get new plugs for $300 and an additional $60 for each plug that might break. That doesn't include the cost if they have to pull the heads if worse comes to worse. I think I might trade it in for something newer with the problem of the wires being eaten by mice and things due to the fact that they have gone to using vegetable based oils in the wires instead of petroleum based oils. I miss the days when you had about 18 bolts, 4 wires and 5 hoses to undo and you could pull the engine and you could rebuild it in a weekend in your garage.
I have a 2010 with the 5.4 with 260000 km, I want to change plugs as I don’t know if they’ve ever been done. I just purchased it last summer. Do you recommend changing the coils as well?
I have a 2006 f150 with the 5.4 L with about 180 thousand miles and I am about to change the spark plugs on it. I am not sure if they have ever been changed before but I was wondering if there is a new design of spark plug for that year and model that is less prone to breakage
So, my F150 is a 2007 with a ford remanufactured 5.4L 3V engine with a date of mfg of "09/03/15." What do you think the chances of having brown boots under there are? In any case, I guess, I'd better go ensure I've got some anti-seize action happening.
I have an 2008 f150 5.4. I have read that they fixed the problem on these plugs mid-2008. Is there way to tell if I have the updated plugs? Is there an exact manufacturing date that I can go off of? I just bought the truck at 90k so I'm expecting to change the plugs relatively soon. Thanks for your help!
Hey thanks for your videos!! I have the new updated plugs but I still broke one. I have the lisle tool # 65600 . Will this tool remove the new updated plugs to? I only seen it used on the old style plugs
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These are the Parts and Tools needed to complete this job:
Latest Spark Plugs-
amzn.to/2qa8vKD
Dielectric Grease-
amzn.to/2ramOTQ
Nickel Anti-Seize-
amzn.to/2qd6xsh
9/16" Spark Plug Socket-
amzn.to/2qdcOEt
Long Reach Air Wand-
amzn.to/2rtXvMe Spark Plug:
Torque Spec- 106 inch lbs
Gap Spec- .041"
FordTechMakuloco are the brown coils and black coils the same?
dmoney8766 can't be since there for two different plugs.
Brian- just a question about using anti seize on the threads- assuming someone bought one new and almost immediately pulled the plugs and coated the threads with antI seize as sort of a early preventive maintenance would that be something worth doing rather than wait say 3 or more years and having so much trouble getting them out safely and intact?
dmoney8766 I believe the black were used until mid-2008, ford switched to brown end of 2008 and above when they changed spark plug design. This is what I’ve read.
FordTechMakuloco can anyone please answer this question. I have a 2009 Lincoln townxar that needs new spark plugs. Does this year have the redesigned spark plugs? Or does the 09 towncar spark plugs break
Your channel is so valuable to all of us 5.4 owners. Thank you for all of your videos.
I’m a retired Ford Senior Master (ret 2007) and you just demonstrated how I always have replaced plugs on any engine! 50 years in the business and glad to see someone teaching the correct procedure!
Thanks so much for making your terrific video. I've been dreading replacing spark plugs in my '08 F150 for 25K miles! Then I come across your vid and learn the broken spark plug issues that plagued the 2004-2008, 3 valve engines were fixed in later year 2008 5.4's. I watched a dozen vids getting ready to tackle broken plug problems, even bought the Lisle tool before tackling mine, but you were the only one who recognized that brown coil boots meant you had the new designed heads and regular "normal" spark plugs. Imagine my relief when I pulled that first coil and it had brown plug boots!!!! Two hours later, after a trip to O'Reilly to trade for some new model, much cheaper plugs, the job is done and my blood pressure has returned to normal. Hat's off to you for taking the time to make and post your vid!!! THANKYOU!!!
Loll..I have a trip coming up and I was feeling the same. Glad to have found out we're in the safe year. Mine is long over due but now I'm feeling better about it
Same here. I bought a used, low mileage 2012 Lincoln Navigator L, which is the identical cousin to the Ford Expedition. Everything under the body and the engine bay is identical. Based on so many TH-cam videos about the horrors of the plugs on the 5.4 Ltr. V8, I was dreading the day when plugs need to be changed. I've always changed my own plugs for the past five and a half decades and hated the proposition that I'd have to have the dealer do it. I will pull the coils this week to confirm that I have those wonderful brown boots and then I'll be able to rest easy until I swap the plugs next month. Thanks.
I’ve been putting off changing the plugs on my wife’s 2013 expedition until I watched your video I thought they had had those shit plugs. I went and changed them just now! Thank you!
The 2013 expedition doesn't use that plug they went back to the small 12mm plug that are in the old 2v and 4v motors.
I'm so glad I found this video. I have a '14 Expedition and I'm being quoted $300 to change the plugs because of the engine size. Nice to know it was updated in 08, to bad all the local mechanics have no idea.
Brian is a rarity in today's World of parts changers. He actually learns and understands what is occurring, why, and how to fix it. When I started back in 1974 as a GM Tech we were taught how each part/system worked, how to diagnose, and how to repair. It has need a few decades since techs were taught this, so he is rare indeed.
Many of these modern systems have no serviceable or replaceable parts. The parts are designed to be made by robots or automated equipment. If it fails, the only action possible is to replace the bad part/unit. The dealership would require hundreds of thousands of dollars in advanced equipment to attempt repairs.
@@johnferguson7235 The other issue is the amount of time involved in doing detailed diagnostics. A guy doing warranty work doesn’t want to spend all day trying to diagnose a condition when he’s getting paid for a fraction of that time.
a good little trick to getting those plugs started, if your socket doesn't have an insert, is use a length of fuel line. stick over the plug, lower it in the hole, twist it a few turns, and pull it out. works like a charm!
I did the inside wrist tug instinctively to tighten down the plug because 106 inch/lbs seemed way to light. Stoked to see Brian does the same thing.
Holy crap your video saved the day,thanks from a later mid 2008 5.4L owner that was freaking out!
One thing I love about this channel is that almost all your videos also apply to 4.6 3v Mustangs, bless this channel
16:44 Yes!
But I use PBlaster instead of WD40
I have found that it works best to spray let set 5 minutes - loosen a little - spray a little - retighten a little - Loosen a little more ---- repeat until it turns freely
I changed out spark plugs in my 5.4 3 valve NO problem at all. Used wd-40 and backed out all plugs 2 turns. Replaced with Motor craft plugs useing a 90* 3/8 rachet and 14mm 12 pt. socket. No missing and better fuel mileage.
2010 Ford Explorer Sport Trac with a 4.6 V8 and 133 K miles. I was getting a rumble in what I thought was the transmission at around 40 mph when it called for just a bit of power. When it shifted down a gear it was fine, going down the highway, it was fine. But when cruising around town at 30 -45 mph on a feather throttle, I would get this " miss" or "rumble"
I was looking around on TH-cam and found this video, along with a few others. I thought I would pull the plugs and give it a try. The last time I had changed ANY spark plugs was in my 68 Mustang 40 years ago!
Using this video, step by step, using nothing more than new Motorcraft plugs, a 9/16" socket, a 7mm socket, assorted 3/8 and 1/4" ratchets and extensions, along with an air compressor and air wand...I did this job in my driveway in about 90 minutes. I had never been exposed to coil-over plugs or even fuel injector engines, but this video made the Trac run like new again! Thank you so much for this video! The only thing I did a bit differently was using a deep well 9/16 socket and put a layer of electrical tape on the open end of the socket. I left about a 1/2" of tape extend out from the socket and then folded it in and it held the spark plug in place with just that little bit of tape taking up the slack of the end of the socket. Thanks again!
Lifesaver, I have a 2008 Expedition Limited .. pulled that boot , had fingers crossed, and BAM! Mine is the "new" brown style. Both me & my mechanic were like Thank God!!! Lol
Thank you for this video. Saved me about $400! That is a good day any day. Very informative and love the step by step details. Perfect for anyone who is unsure about tackling this little project! THANk YOU!
Just to follow up on my earlier comment. Changed the plugs on the 2011 Expedition. 1.5 hours, start to finish. Only hitch was finding a 14mm spark plug socket. Thank you for posting this! Saved me $400 + 1 day lost time for the vehicle.
+Signal Man Thank for the update! I have links to the spark plug socket that fits in the description too.
Thanks for this great video. I changed the plugs in my 2011 Expedition with 130,000 miles. Didn't run into any problems,, they all came out without any drama. It's hard to say if the plugs were done before I owned this thing, but they haven't been changed in the last 70.000ish miles, so it was time as they were pretty worn out.
Thank you soo much!!
I just did mine today.. Following all your advices and similar tools..
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Got my sparkplugs today from ebay.. And they worked perfectly..
I paid 40 bucks for them.. And thank God i had access to all these tools.. Took me 3 Hrs 😎☺..
Tip.. For the socket i couldn't fing a magnetic 1. I. Just put an electric black tape around the ring and it did an amazing job ☺.. May the lord bless you my friend.. Thank you!!
Thanks a bunch !! I was told my 2010 f150 still had the "STUPID" plugs, relieved to know it doesn't !! yeaaaaa!!
Thanks. Great video. I do like your technique of cleaning and recleaning with compressed air. I was surprised at how much came out after you pulled out the plug. Shows that that step is very necessary. I notice you don't mention checking the plug gap. We were taught to be very paranoid about that and not to trust the manufacturer too much.
These new plugs are gapless or "pre-gapped" as it stands there is no way to gap it anyway
@@oregunningames8226 Is that true of the SP509? I've seen people say these plugs shouldn't be messed with because the platinum is brittle.
Thanks for posting! I have a 2011 Expedition with 124,000 original plugs. Was dreading replacing the plugs, until now.
you have the best advice and knowledge for my for expedition. thanks
I'm sure glad you made this video I just got done doing my VCT system and declined to change the spark plugs because I thought they would give me trouble now that I know they're the new design guess what I'm doing this weekend
I know you put it on the parts list below, but might want to add a flag on the video about using Nickel Anti-seize instead of Aluminum or Copper, which a lot of DIYers have most of the time. Just bought a 2010 F-150 5.4 3V with 112K and I really appreciate all the videos you've posted, they're a real help as I'm preparing to do all the 100K stuff (sparks, dif/TC oil/Power steering flush etc.). Thank you for these!
I only mentioned it because I was going to use Aluminum and a mechanic friend caught and corrected me before I started.
Still own this truck? Any updates? I’m looking to buy a 2010 f250 with the 5.4
Lots of great Info on this and a few other users sites. One thing I JUST learned, if buying a motor that may have this issue, ask to check ALL PLUGS or at least pull the coil packs on all cylinders and check to make sure it actually has a full plug before starting. I'm the unhappy owner of a 5.4 Liter, that had 6 of 8 stock coils replaced with Accel coils, WELL, come to find out, 6 of 8 plugs WERE BROKEN OFF ALREADY!! Some slick mechanic figured out that, a higher voltage coil would just jump any gap and still spark what was left of each plug, I'm amazed the pieces didn't blow out over time, but now I'm the process of removing the electrodes & tips and starting over with new coils and Champion plugs, as I'll never even think of suffering thru this crappy Autolite plug design ever again. Also, ANY manufacturer that thinks plugs shouldn't be changed at 30K miles is just asking for bad maintenance and poor performance and fuel economy, as even double platinum plugs will burn .010 more of a gap in that amount of time.
Blows my mind. Over 100 years into building vehicles and suddenly ford forgets how to make a damned spark plug.
This is unbelievable really!
Ford doesn’t make parts
@@brianveltri3107 Ford designed the engine and specified that plug to be installed. Disgraceful!
Gm was doing this long before ford started. Take the gm 5.7s as a example 😅
OK, this instructional vid was the best one I found for my application, and he explained it perfectly. I have an 09 F150 w/4.6L 3valve. So I was also concerned whether or not my truck would have the problem spark plugs or not. They were the 1 piece plug with the brown boots, so that was a relief. I had to buy a 9/16" spark plug socket though, and ended up buying one through my local NAPA. It is a 6 point with the rubber insert, which I thought would be fine.. 1st 3 plugs on the right side came out and went back in without any drama. Rear plug , drivers side came out OK, SEEMED to go in OK, but the boot would not sit properly when I put it back it. Tried another boot from another cylinder..still..not proper. Hmm..Finally, looked in the spark plug socket,and the rubber insert came out of the socket and was still on the plug..in the rear right plug hole which I can't even see down. Fun.. I tried to put the socket back on, it wouldn't go because when pushed down, the insert would spread onto the spark plug hex. I tried needle nose hose end pliers, just a bit too short. Tried every pick I had, until I finally managed to pull the insert off the plug and out. The problem was the insert held the plug too tightly. So I reamed the insert out on the drill press at high speed, until it was sized to just hold the spark plug lightly enough to hold it as the plug was being lowered into the engine, but not hard enough to give any problems removing it. Once I did that, the rest of the job was A-OK. Just take this into consideration before doing this job.
Redlinesixtynine usually you wanna put some dielectric grease or even some oil on the plug *before* you put it in those spark plug sockets with the rubber sleeve. Especially when they are brand new and haven’t been used much.
gorilla glue the insert in the socket. it happened to me too
Just did this on my 2010 F150. I followed your instructions to the letter and everything went smoothly. Thank you.
Gilberto Padilla how’s your 2010 so far?
@@moparcharger8642 Pretty good, reliable. I have 160k on it now. Ive always heard the phaser knocking, but it's not bad. Ive been using 5w-30 or 10w-30 since 90k thanks to these videos.
Been doing this for over 35 years, and I still fret when the old 3v comes in! Lol
Yes !!! Thank u Sir! I’ve been meaning to change these plugs for about a year right now just checked I got the brown ones
Great video instructions. Job went well and learned more about my truck in the process. Very surprised on how easily the new plugs installed by hand until the dead stop. I uninstalled and reinstalled twice to make sure this was accurate. Once hitting dead stop, applied 106 inch pounds. 2012 Ford Expedition | 104k miles. Thank you again!
Glad I found this video also, but of course too late. I had already bought a set of SP546 and the repair tool just in case. Talk about shocked when I pulled the first plug and realized life will be so much better without the stress of maybe breaking one. I am surprised I missed this video as I watched many by Makuloco. Thinking I had the other style I wanted to make sure I didn't Side Load a plug on removing. I used a 6" long plug socket and machined a bushing that fit the well in the head. I just didn't want to side load.
I was lucky! Bought all the parts (plugs, coils, plug remover tool etc), but I saw the date of motor on my 2008 f150 and returned to Amazon all the parts for the correct ones and saved $$$!Thanks for the videos!
That feel when installing the spark plug to me is always the crush gasket. You're really feeling for the eighth of a turn to crush that gasket on to the Head.
This style plug has a taper that seats in the head. But yes on the ones with crush washers.
Genius college educated engineers at work in all industry's
taking a product and making it unusable or worse!
I cleaned the coil plug boot and used anti seize compound on outside of boot! They come out so easy now after the bolt is removed!
im doing mine in my 2010 4.6 3v tomorrow hopefully it will fix my crazy shudder in overdrive with slight throttle going uphill!!
Knox Crider did this fix it? I have the same problem. Also i also have a 2010 4.6, is it the same as the 5.4 in the vid? Basically did they come out just as easy
@@The_table_242 yep problem solved, I made a video on my channel doing it and showing why it was acting the way it was, check it out!! And yes they came out perfectly fine just like a normal plug should.
@@knoxcrider9835 10 years go when I had same problem it was plugged Cat. I get code after 1 year or so.
Thanks man great video, very helpful. I am glad I have the updated plugs. 2010 I just got it.
Still have your 2010? I’m thinking about buying one. Needs manifold gaskets replaced.
@@Mtomscha yes it's been doing good, 60k no problems. It's the 5.4 v8
@@dirtberger4533 awesome thanks for the feedback!
Great video! I have never seen anyone blow out the inside of the cylinder. Is that common practice?
Would you ever do a video when you replace the spark plugs on a 2017 Ford F250 with the 6.2 liter with the 16 spark plugs?
Watched your video . At one point i was a firm believer that the plug tips could never fall into the cylinder until i experienced it first hand . I have since seen this multiple times and have yet to remove a cylinder head to get them out !!!
Thank you so much for doing this video! Single moms need help!
13:50 that 3rd air cleaning wow. Great thorough work. Ty
These videos are a gold mine.
Have a '03 F-150 5.4 2v factory calls for 5w-20. I've been using Amsoil 0w-30 since day one, many engine builders recommend this. Also change coolant every spring. 60/40 distilled water w GO-5 Zerex. Stock air filter but rip out stock reducer in fender. Replace with 3 in. PVC. Called Gott intake mod. for F-150
I did the gotts mod and put a MagnaFlow in place of factory muffler added a gryphon programmer and the truck performs so much better and gets 3mpg better.
Thanks for the video it help I was a little scared to do them because of the pre 2010 f150 and keep up the great ford videos I enjoy watching them
So you should be able to convert it then if you have the old style correct? Get new ignition coils and upgrade the plugs and go?
First of all, thank you for your response to my question. After watching several of your updated videos on the 2008 spark plug change, I am a bit confused...I DO have the black spark plug boots. I did have Ford change the plugs at 111,000 miles. I am assuming that if the boots were brown to start with, they would have replaced them with the same (maybe not?) Anyway, in one of your videos you insinuated that the late 2008 F 150 Tritons came with the the 3 plug computer array and bracket in the engine compartment - mine has this set up. Does THIS mean my truck has the newer plugs? Thank you for any info. Enjoy your vids. Excellent content. I worked as a Tech for Ford in the 80's. Much has changed since then. An old guy at the shop once told me, "If a car has gas, fuel and air, it'll run
who, and why dislike this video with so much good content,
you know of no for mechanics like this, cara wouldn't run, period.
@FordTechMakuloco my old man is looking into buying one of these trucks made before these upgrades (pre-2008) which do you think is more reliable? The 4.6 or 5.4?
Awesome tutorial on how to get it done right. Thank you!
late 2008, post September build engines got the new design (non-douchebag) spark plug, the engine in my 08 F150 was built 2 weeks before, and has the brown boots, with the douchebag spark plugs.
most of my friends refuse to touch them, I love doing them, they're easy, induction cleaning kit, mix a little marvel mystery oil in with it, and put an impact gun to them while they're still hot, they come out no problems, no breakage. Let the heads cool down after, put the nickel never seize on them, torque to 25ft-lbs as per spec, have a nice day.
Does this apply to the 4.6 3v engine as well? I have a 2010 F150.
I have a 2010 F-150 4.6L as well. The plugs are not the same as these, they are shorter thread - Spark plug # AGSF32N
Best tutorial on the internet
Your the Best Ford tech
Hi,
I had a question. I was changing my spark plugs on my 2006 Ford XLT 5.4L 3v engine. When i was blowing out the rubish in the spark plug hole i noticed a rubber gasket on the valve cover where the coil sits. The ones i had were pretty brittle and came out. I ask a ford dealer and auto part store and no one could find this part / o ring gasket. Heck the dealership part store couldn't find it on the computer diagram. Is this part necessary? Or those the new coils already have a seal to replace that o-ring gasket.
I'm assuming it was extra protection from any type of fluid entering in. Since no one could find it i took the old one out because it was giving me problems intall the new coil pack tightly.
Do you have any information or input on this?
Thanks
What should the gap be on the spark plugs? I've heard they come "pre gapped" but still, what should the gap be to confirm I don't have a faulty spark plug? Using Double Platinum Motorcraft plugs. Excellent video by the way.
Don't trust "pre-gapped"! It seems to vary for this engine year to year from forty-something thousands to .054. Check the manual.
So if I have the brown boots I'll be fine? 2010 f150 5.4. Also I just did my exhaust manifold. Your video on that was a lot of help thank you for that! That was not an easy job Haha.
So since Ford has been using this crappy designed plug since 04 and now they have this new designed plug but only works on 08 to 14, why wouldn't this work for the 04-07? Just kinda confused since technically I should also be able to use this plug in my 05 5.4L.
thanks for all the informative videos. Keep up the good work and information.
+808-Me too...same question. Mine is a 2004.
Thanks. Same plug but different head design. Currently I'm running the one piece Champion for the past 20K + miles and so far no issues.
The heads are different. Threads in the heads are set up differently. If you look at the two spark plug designs side by side, you'll see that the older plug design not only uses a different size (larger) thread, but the spark plug reach is completely different as well. Even if the two plugs used the same thread diameter/pitch, the newer design would seat differently on the older heads...or may not even seat at all.
Dewy, the head design changed so no
Good video bud! Hopefully the 5.0 is next!
Awesome video you don't skip any detail!! thank you so much I'm getting ready to do this. Big help!!!!!!!!
Great that they improved that engine. Too bad they didn't do that before they started selling it.
It's kind of like the M16/AR-15. When introduced it had major design/production issues, to say the least. Today, after over 50 years of revision, refinement, testing, adaptation, and experience, it's one of the most reliable and popular firearms systems in the world.
Okay so I'm old school with how I was taught to work on vehicles.. Replacing plugs meant replacing wires, distributor cap etc. With the electronic coil systems used today, does the coil not need to be replaced with a tuneup as well? Just plugs and done unless a coil fails?
correct
FordTechMakuloco well that saves me quite a bit of money. Thanks! Great videos btw.
Small tip, when the boots stick like that, spray a little silicone lube in the boot, and use a little compressed air. Usually pushes the lube around plug and separates boot from plug
Quick question: I have the 2008 Ford Expedition with the black boots. Can I replace the spark plugs with the new champion spark plug design. I didn't know about the new spark plug the last time I replaced my spark plugs. Going to replace plugs again. Thanks. Great video BTW.
Will the updated 5.4 engine from late 2008 to 13-14 fit an older truck such as an 04 to 08 f150 or Mark LT? Will the pcm work with those newer engines even if they where swapped into a truck a few years older?
Hi makuloco. Have you ever seen the plugs on the newer design come loose and give a tick/knock sound? I have brown boots on my 08’ and the tick sounds like it’s coming from underneath and not the valve train. Hope it’s not a roller follower and hoping just a loose plug. Stethoscope wasn’t able to pinpoint but sure sounds like the guys with vids that had loose plugs.
Edit changed the plugs, which were very bad but the tick is still there.
a 1/4" peice of fuel line makes it easy to thread tge sparkplugs back in.
also if you do use penetrating oil, just blow it out after the plug starts to get loose - that way it wont drip down into the cylinder.
some contact cleaner for the plug and injector conectors is good to have as the could have dirt in them making them difficult to click back on.
I have this design spark plugs in my 2011 Expedition.
However 7 out 8 seems to be seized... Bad luck I guess😅
Any additional tips on removing seized plugs on this particular engine?
NGK now sells Irridium plugs for 2010 and newer. Should be better than Ford nickel/platinum. What do you think?
I have a 2006 Ford Explorer Limited and want to change the spark plugs. However, I don't want to do it myself, i.e. the breakage issue. If I take it to the dealer, would I be financially responsible is they break a plug? or is that covered by them? Thanks! Love your channel!!!! PS where are the Doggies?
Is it possible to put these “newer design” plugs and coils in the older say 2007 heads, without changing/upgrading anything else?
Nice to see the job done right. How many hacks just let all that crap fall into the cylinder?? Take care man
I'm very happy to see that FordTechMakuloco takes the time to do things correctly. Lots of hacks would just let that crap fall into the cylinder. I can understand not cleaning on engines that aren't prone to having garbage near the spark plug wells...but I've never seen one of these engines clean - even when they were relatively new. They collect debris all over the place!
Uuuuummmmm funny story. When I did this job to my 2010 I only had the blower peice for the air compressor but not the extended nozzle so I blew out all the dirt before I pulled each spark plug out and kept things nice and clean but on the very last spark plug I somehow managed to drop a price of electrical tape down into the cylinder and absolutely could not get it out >:( So after 15 min of trying to blow it out I just had to move on and hope it would burn off. After I started the truck, it started to smell bad in the cab after it warmed up. Go figure. But after the third time I drove it after doing plugs I never got the smell back again and the engine runs great. So I came out OK on this one but don't be stupid like me lol.
Thanks so much for the video. I bought a used 2004 f150 and it has newer model of spark plugs on it so im guessing engine was replaced with a late 2008 model. It has the black coil boots on it. Do I replace the coil boots alone to brown or replace a set of new brown boot coils?
Hi Makuloco! Thanks for the video. I have a question, in some forums the people tell 106 in-Lbs its to low and at risk to spit the sparks. What's your opinion? Thanks!
Yes it sure is, I always go them by feel closer to 15ft lbs
How do Ford engineers manage to always fuck up in the most epic of ways?
I agree 100% !!!
My 2009 F150 :
- Heat shields rust out at supports and rattle
-ABS wiring rubbed against steering knuckle causing wires to fray
-Rear (third) brake light water leak
-Driver's side wheel bearing failure
-Pinion seal leak
-Original GoodYear Wranglers were sh!t !!
-water leak at Sirius antenna
All they care about is quantity ; not quality !!
Cause they don't have to work on them. Think they should be made to work on them after the first few are made.
At least there is enough room in the engine bay to work. Still don't understand why the trans doesn't have a drain plug.
The move for no Trans drain is from people not servicing them properly, wrong fluid, level or both.. causing more issues then they fixed. Now there is different Technology and most do not need the same amount of care for operation.
i guess dodge and chevy are perfect bullshit
What part number spark plugs should i be looking for, 2007 expedition limited? Ive seen sp515, sp509,sp546, and sp432. Will you help me out with this? Thanks alot.
I have a 12 expedition with 76k miles, I like to do preventative maintenance before I have problems, is there a recommended mileage for spark plug replacement?
I just did my LATE 2007-08 F-150 5.4L And it had Motorcraft plugs and i needed 14MM sockit I got a S9714MKL Extra Long 14MM Snap On pluge socket And to a big serpris it had brown coil boots lucky me
Do you need a water separator on your compressor to blow out the cylinders without any risk of damage to the motor apon start-up?
Good video, thanks for the cleaning tips.
Might seem like a stupid question, but I assume that each coil on plug needs to go back to the same spark plug? Or does it not matter?
+Joy Dunn it does not matter they are all the same
My new plugs are pre-gapped to .035-.036, does this sound about right? They are the Motorcraft Platinum HJFS 24FP
Hi Makuloco, I just purchased a 2009 f350 v10 with 70,000. I'm thinking of doing the sparkplugs now, any pointers or recommendations? Thanks.
excellent job makuloco!! I like the idea of compress air, and wd40 for remove the spark plugs.
I have 163,000 miles on 2010 F-150. Do I need to change my spark plug ignition coils even though not having any issues? About to change plugs again
Doing this for first time ever on my 2010 with almost 200,000 miles. Should I be worried about carbon buildup? Or can I just kinda get right into it like you are doing. Was thinking of running a little seafoam in my gas tank for a couple days but I won't if there's no good reason to. Thoughts?
Well for anyone who read this, I ran a cab of sea foam in my gas tank and a few weeks later I changed the plugs with 0 issues. I think I would've been just fine even without sea foam. Remember that that's even on the original plugs at close to 200k miles.
Glad to hear it went well, did you use a torque wrench, or tighten them as shown in the video? Thinking I need to change them in my 2011 .
Tightened them like in the video but I didn't get so fussy with the 1/8 or 1/4 extra turn or however he does it. I just kinda got in there and tightened the suckers pretty good. Never put anti-seize on the threads either. I did use the NGK Iridium plugs as well. It completely fixed the misfire issue I was having. Just go for it, the plugs won't break, and it's not fussy like the 04-08 5.4's. Best advice I got.
The spark plug socket you recommended on here doesn’t work on the SP-509 sockets. It’s not deep enough. Going to have to return it and get my money back.
I took my 2010 F-150 XLT with the 5.4L 3V in to the shop because its now over 100k miles. Said I wanted a tuneup on it. They said they would do everything but the plugs. I asked why. They said because it was the Triton engine. So I went to 2 other places, they said the same thing. It goes to the dealer on Wednesday to get new plugs for $300 and an additional $60 for each plug that might break. That doesn't include the cost if they have to pull the heads if worse comes to worse. I think I might trade it in for something newer with the problem of the wires being eaten by mice and things due to the fact that they have gone to using vegetable based oils in the wires instead of petroleum based oils.
I miss the days when you had about 18 bolts, 4 wires and 5 hoses to undo and you could pull the engine and you could rebuild it in a weekend in your garage.
I have a 2010 with the 5.4 with 260000 km, I want to change plugs as I don’t know if they’ve ever been done. I just purchased it last summer. Do you recommend changing the coils as well?
How’s your truck running
@@StrayedKing It runs well, changed the plugs but not the coils. It was easy to do. Seems to run a little smoother now.
I have a 2008 F150, with the updated plugs, brown coil boots. What is the recommended mileage for spark plug replacement?
I have a 2006 f150 with the 5.4 L with about 180 thousand miles and I am about to change the spark plugs on it. I am not sure if they have ever been changed before but I was wondering if there is a new design of spark plug for that year and model that is less prone to breakage
thanks you made this job easy
So, my F150 is a 2007 with a ford remanufactured 5.4L 3V engine with a date of mfg of "09/03/15." What do you think the chances of having brown boots under there are?
In any case, I guess, I'd better go ensure I've got some anti-seize action happening.
I have an 2008 f150 5.4. I have read that they fixed the problem on these plugs mid-2008. Is there way to tell if I have the updated plugs? Is there an exact manufacturing date that I can go off of? I just bought the truck at 90k so I'm expecting to change the plugs relatively soon. Thanks for your help!
When upgrading the plug do we have to upgrade the boot
Hey thanks for your videos!! I have the new updated plugs but I still broke one. I have the lisle tool # 65600 . Will this tool remove the new updated plugs to? I only seen it used on the old style plugs
Thanks for the detailed information. Very good video. Top notch.
Wow just saw the list of what I need. You rock can't thank you enough!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!