Awesome videos! I bought a 205 form a guy who had it all tore apart. He had bought a rebuild kit and only had it partially finished. Your videos helped me to get it back together and working great! I actually found that you can start the roll pins in the shift forks before you put them in the case. There is room on both sides to let the forks set in place and slide the shift rails into the case. Makes that part of the job a lot easier. Thanks again for the great videos!
Wow thanks for the video bro totally insightful with lots of knowledge. Got my whole 205 tore apart and rebuilt. Also my kids are in the shop with me all the time too. 😉
I know this is an older thread but very useful to me. Thank you so much for your approach to this! Very very informative. I am putting my idler gears back in and I purchased a seal and gasket kit here locally. (Oregon) The speedometer fitting O ring was incorrect but other than that no trouble so far. My concern is the shims on the idler assembly? My NP205 is original and out of my 1970 c10 and no shims came out on disassembly. Do I need to order them? All my bearings are in good shape. Thanks in advance!!
Geb, thank you for this video, I was able to pull mine and rebuild it before I installed the gear vendors over drive unit. It was my first time doing a transfer case and you gave me all the confidence I needed. I will be honest, putting the shift rails in was a complete pain in the A$$. It was hard to line them up both just right and slide them in so they would clear, that part took me a while. The roller bearings luckily for me were easy to put in. Thanks again. If I could just ask where you got the Bolt hardware kit at. I ended up wire wheeling all of mine to clean metal and then clear coating the tops, turned out nice but I would much rather change to what you used in the future. Thanks again from Alaska!!
I am glad it worked out for you! I tallied up all of the bolt sizes I needed then purchased all stainless hardware from the local hardware store. Thank you for watching and I'm glad my vids can help!
Geb, first of, amazing videos in that tutorial. You had me Subscribed. I do have 1 question, you mentioned in video 3 or 4 that everything is assembled dried. But is it recommended to use assembly lubricant while doing so?
Hi, thank you for watching and commenting! I always lube seals and bushings in these cases but if the bearing is lubed in the gear oil, I am sure to rotate the assemblies in the filled case before use. Great question!
Great video on the NP 205. 👍 In putting mine back together it seems as I have about 3/16” clearence in the idler gears front to back. Is that ok? Or are there some shims needed other than the 4 thin ones? Thanks
Book spec is 0 to 0.002" end play in the idler gears. 3/16" is WAY too much, you must have it assembled wrong. I just rebuilt my np205. from the factory, the order of things on the idler, front to back, was: 1. Lock nut (& washer? I forget). 2. Bearing race 3. Bearing cone 4. Spacer shims (mine had 0.054" of shims total, and i kept it that way despite new bearings). 5. Spacer sleeve 6. Bearing cone 7. Bearing race 130 foot pounds of torque on the lock nut, if i rememeber correctly. Check that the idler gears spin freely once assembled. If you put too few/thin shims in, or put them on the other side of a bearing, then the bearings will be way too tight and will overheat if forced to run very long.
Also, Installing my idler shaft and torque and torqued to 120lbs. Zero end play and the idler spins with some resistance. The bearings are brand new. Is this common?
Instead of using the wood screw screwed into the pin for the shift rails trick (which I couldn't get screw to stay in the pin), I used a thin nail, which kept the fork and the rail aligned, and the flat head of the nail, allowed the flat punch to sit squarely on the head of the nail on the pin. Once getting the pin in, I then pushed the nail back up through the access hole from the inside.
Awesome video Geb! I'm done with the rebuild! Quick question- my input shaft bearing has a drain back notch for fluid... Upon inspection prior to putting the same figure 8 style adapter on, (I have a TH350) I realized the notch is about 20-30 degrees off from dead bottom for fluid drainage. Think that's worth the work to redo? All the reading I've done suggests the only common problem for autos is ATF drainage into the case due to bad adapter seals, which I'm replacing.
That is a good question David Lang and for peace of mind I would definitely index the notch correctly. I am so glad you like my vids and they can help out! Thank you for watching and have a blast with your project, God bless!
Is there an advantage to Petroleum Jelly instead of wheel bearing grease to hold your "roly poly" bearings? Great video btw, informative, well spoken and clear; just overall well done!
bsgp8ntball thank you very much! I’m glad you like my vids! The reason I use petroleum jelly is because I know it dissolves and blends in with my Amsoil. Wheel bearing grease would probably do the same thing but even if it floated around in globs it would never hurt anything in this Tcase! Great question, God bless!
ccorcoran53 sorry I took so long getting back to you. I have not seen any spec for that and I think it varies. Some forks have a coating on them which takes up some of the space and some don’t. Some seem pretty loose and some don’t, some are noisier than others. I really can’t answer your question with solid facts but from what I’ve seen and what you describe I would say you’ll be fine. I wish I had a more definitive answer for you but that’s all I’ve got. God bless!
One thing I'll add that I found online about getting the role pin started is use a straw from a can of wd40 or brake clean. Slide it into the fork and shaft then slide the pin over the straw and tap it in
I'm getting ready to one of these and worried about how to know which parts need replacement and what is causing noise in my driveline. I noticed that you didn't replace the idler shaft, yet it shows a lot of scoring (see 2:30-2:45). Is there a reason you chose not to replace it, and what kind of problems would be created by what appear to be wear grooves cut into it?
Great question. Those are not actually scores. The center part of that shaft is left rough from the factory and the rest was nice and smooth! Thank you for watching and commenting, God bless!
Hey Geb, Thank you for making great videos. I would have a rough slow going process without them. I have a question about the shims on the bearings on the idler shaft assembly. During disassembly of case I had three shims stacked on each other on top of one bearing and nothing shimming the other bearing. Two shims were extremely thin and on was thicker, I can provide exact thickness if needed. In your rebuild were all four of your shims the same thickness or did you have two thick and to thin? Thank you for any help!
Thank you for watching and the kind words!! I have heard of what you're talking about before in regards to the shims and in those cases I believe it worked out best to re install the shims exactly the way they came out. I went through this case quite a while ago so I can't remember if my shims were of different thicknesses. Sorry I couldn't be of more precise help at the moment... I will see if I can dig up the GM book and help you better. God Bless!
Milan Brehm it’s hard to say. Maybe there is a burr or slight imperfection in the rail if it were dropped or something? Are they going back in the same holes? Perhaps it needs an ever so gentle tapperoo? Lube it up?
Outstanding video, thank you so much! For anyone else getting their asses kicked by those roll pins, you can just start them in the shift forks before putting the shift forks in. See this quick video: th-cam.com/video/2HRjPg-0XfA/w-d-xo.html
I'm 18yrs old, I'm in process of a 203-205 4-1 with a sm456. I've watched your teardown and rebuilds now.... where can I get a whole rebuild set for my 205... seals. etc ect.... And my shaft teeth are wore down terrible. where cabin get one of those and not break the bank
I got my NP205 goodies off of Ebay- Just be careful not to get cheapo no- name bearings. I'd recommend Timken bearings if possible. I've purchased good shafts from salvage yards but they're getting very hard to come by so I'd check Ebay for that as well. Excellent questions and thank you for watching!!Have fun with your build- God Bless!!
My brother inlaw has a 76ish ford with the 205 and he mud runs with it and when running though the pit the 4 wheel drive goes into neutral. the stick doesn't move they pull it into neutral and back and it's fine after that. Do you know what that could be
That's hard to pinpoint from here, but it sounds like it definitely needs a rebuild and I would suspect he's going to need some hard parts. Thank you for watching and the great question! God bless!
Old post, but for future readers. That can be caused by the detent springs being old and weak. JB custom fab has adjustable ones that you can replace with the 205 still installed if you can get to the top of it. If that doesn't work then check the notches in the rails, shift collars, and syncros.
@@GebBuilt awe man! I was hoping I wouldn't have to. I just spent a month rebuilding my cummins 12 valve in my truck (broken camshaft). So before I tear apart the np205 should I try to just free up the shift rails?
Book spec is 0 to 0.002" end play in the idler gears. 3/16" is WAY too much, you must have it assembled wrong. I just rebuilt my np205. from the factory, the order of things on the idler, front to back, was: 1. Lock nut (& washer? I forget). 2. Bearing race 3. Bearing cone 4. Spacer shims (mine had 0.054" of shims total, and i kept it that way despite new bearings). 5. Spacer sleeve 6. Bearing cone 7. Bearing race 130 foot pounds of torque on the lock nut, if i rememeber correctly. Check that the idler gears spin freely once assembled. If you put too few/thin shims in, or put them on the other side of a bearing, then the bearings will be way too tight and will overheat if forced to run very long.
He mentions that the synchro has to be on the gear and in the fork before driving the roll pin. But at 16:58, he knocks the synchro off after the roll pin is in, but is still able to slide it back on the gear. In order to line up my Ford 205 roll pin windows, the synchro barely sits on the edge of the gear, as soon as I line up the windows, the shift fork arms knock the synchro off every time. I don't see how he is putting the synchro back on without pulling the shift rails and the fork each time, to put the synchro back in the fork...
Tore my Gm np205 round 6 down and only had 3 shims, two thin and one a little thicker. Is this normal? Should I have 4? Does it matter their orientation on the spacer? The fell out the case before I could tell where they were.
Quantity and orientation does matter. They were custom set by the factory to account for manufacturing variance. A good manual will have the procedure to reset it.
Grant I know this was 3 years ago but mine was the same way it just had 3 shims between the collar and the bearing on the side closest to the threaded part of the shaft.
Awesome videos! I bought a 205 form a guy who had it all tore apart. He had bought a rebuild kit and only had it partially finished. Your videos helped me to get it back together and working great! I actually found that you can start the roll pins in the shift forks before you put them in the case. There is room on both sides to let the forks set in place and slide the shift rails into the case. Makes that part of the job a lot easier. Thanks again for the great videos!
Jay Staley I'm glad you like the vids! Excellent tip on the roll pins!
Wow thanks for the video bro totally insightful with lots of knowledge. Got my whole 205 tore apart and rebuilt. Also my kids are in the shop with me all the time too. 😉
That is great! I'm so glad my videos could help! Cherish those kiddos, God bless!
Great video! I have a 87 Chevy that I will be working on. Video and time takin is much appreciated.
AWESOME, THANKS!
Awesome..cardboard trick really helped on my 73 power wagon. Great Job and Thank you for making the vid!
Biochem Excellent! Thanks for watching!!
rolly polly, holy molly, excellent tutorial very well done, and awesome to see you working with family, hats off to you sir thanks!
+jeremy janka Thank you! God bless!
You sir are a saint! I plan on tackling this in the next few days. Great video!!
I know this is an older thread but very useful to me. Thank you so much for your approach to this! Very very informative. I am putting my idler gears back in and I purchased a seal and gasket kit here locally. (Oregon) The speedometer fitting O ring was incorrect but other than that no trouble so far. My concern is the shims on the idler assembly? My NP205 is original and out of my 1970 c10 and no shims came out on disassembly. Do I need to order them? All my bearings are in good shape. Thanks in advance!!
Awesome vid thanks!. I have a Ford NO205 I'm doing following your videos. My inputs and outputs are opposite yours. Is that common?
Geb, thank you for this video, I was able to pull mine and rebuild it before I installed the gear vendors over drive unit. It was my first time doing a transfer case and you gave me all the confidence I needed. I will be honest, putting the shift rails in was a complete pain in the A$$. It was hard to line them up both just right and slide them in so they would clear, that part took me a while. The roller bearings luckily for me were easy to put in. Thanks again. If I could just ask where you got the Bolt hardware kit at. I ended up wire wheeling all of mine to clean metal and then clear coating the tops, turned out nice but I would much rather change to what you used in the future. Thanks again from Alaska!!
I am glad it worked out for you! I tallied up all of the bolt sizes I needed then purchased all stainless hardware from the local hardware store. Thank you for watching and I'm glad my vids can help!
Great videos!.. thanks for putting them out there.
Daniel Castaneda Glad they can help! Thank you for watching!!
Use a 6mm nut driver with grease in the end to put the pins in the shift fork
Install the roll pins into the forks with a small hammer before putting the forks in the case. Did it yesterday no problem.
Geb, first of, amazing videos in that tutorial. You had me Subscribed. I do have 1 question, you mentioned in video 3 or 4 that everything is assembled dried. But is it recommended to use assembly lubricant while doing so?
Hi, thank you for watching and commenting! I always lube seals and bushings in these cases but if the bearing is lubed in the gear oil, I am sure to rotate the assemblies in the filled case before use. Great question!
Great video on the NP 205. 👍 In putting mine back together it seems as I have about 3/16” clearence in the idler gears front to back. Is that ok? Or are there some shims needed other than the 4 thin ones? Thanks
Book spec is 0 to 0.002" end play in the idler gears. 3/16" is WAY too much, you must have it assembled wrong.
I just rebuilt my np205. from the factory, the order of things on the idler, front to back, was:
1. Lock nut (& washer? I forget).
2. Bearing race
3. Bearing cone
4. Spacer shims (mine had 0.054" of shims total, and i kept it that way despite new bearings).
5. Spacer sleeve
6. Bearing cone
7. Bearing race
130 foot pounds of torque on the lock nut, if i rememeber correctly.
Check that the idler gears spin freely once assembled. If you put too few/thin shims in, or put them on the other side of a bearing, then the bearings will be way too tight and will overheat if forced to run very long.
What he said
Also, Installing my idler shaft and torque and torqued to 120lbs. Zero end play and the idler spins with some resistance. The bearings are brand new. Is this common?
Instead of using the wood screw screwed into the pin for the shift rails trick (which I couldn't get screw to stay in the pin), I used a thin nail, which kept the fork and the rail aligned, and the flat head of the nail, allowed the flat punch to sit squarely on the head of the nail on the pin. Once getting the pin in, I then pushed the nail back up through the access hole from the inside.
Awesome video Geb! I'm done with the rebuild! Quick question- my input shaft bearing has a drain back notch for fluid... Upon inspection prior to putting the same figure 8 style adapter on, (I have a TH350) I realized the notch is about 20-30 degrees off from dead bottom for fluid drainage. Think that's worth the work to redo? All the reading I've done suggests the only common problem for autos is ATF drainage into the case due to bad adapter seals, which I'm replacing.
That is a good question David Lang and for peace of mind I would definitely index the notch correctly. I am so glad you like my vids and they can help out! Thank you for watching and have a blast with your project, God bless!
Is there an advantage to Petroleum Jelly instead of wheel bearing grease to hold your "roly poly" bearings? Great video btw, informative, well spoken and clear; just overall well done!
bsgp8ntball thank you very much! I’m glad you like my vids! The reason I use petroleum jelly is because I know it dissolves and blends in with my Amsoil. Wheel bearing grease would probably do the same thing but even if it floated around in globs it would never hurt anything in this Tcase! Great question, God bless!
How much play should I have between the shift fork and the collar? It seems like they are pretty loose but there is no wear Mark's on the shift fork.
ccorcoran53 sorry I took so long getting back to you. I have not seen any spec for that and I think it varies. Some forks have a coating on them which takes up some of the space and some don’t. Some seem pretty loose and some don’t, some are noisier than others. I really can’t answer your question with solid facts but from what I’ve seen and what you describe I would say you’ll be fine. I wish I had a more definitive answer for you but that’s all I’ve got. God bless!
One thing I'll add that I found online about getting the role pin started is use a straw from a can of wd40 or brake clean. Slide it into the fork and shaft then slide the pin over the straw and tap it in
Great idea, thank you for the input! God bless!
Any reason why the roll pins can't be started in the shift fork outside of the case to the depth of the shift rods?..
They can
I'm getting ready to one of these and worried about how to know which parts need replacement and what is causing noise in my driveline. I noticed that you didn't replace the idler shaft, yet it shows a lot of scoring (see 2:30-2:45). Is there a reason you chose not to replace it, and what kind of problems would be created by what appear to be wear grooves cut into it?
Great question. Those are not actually scores. The center part of that shaft is left rough from the factory and the rest was nice and smooth! Thank you for watching and commenting, God bless!
Are the 205s in Chevy the same as the ones in dodges
Conner Davis It may drive on the opposite side. I’m not sure.
Hey Geb, Thank you for making great videos. I would have a rough slow going process without them. I have a question about the shims on the bearings on the idler shaft assembly. During disassembly of case I had three shims stacked on each other on top of one bearing and nothing shimming the other bearing. Two shims were extremely thin and on was thicker, I can provide exact thickness if needed. In your rebuild were all four of your shims the same thickness or did you have two thick and to thin? Thank you for any help!
Thank you for watching and the kind words!! I have heard of what you're talking about before in regards to the shims and in those cases I believe it worked out best to re install the shims exactly the way they came out. I went through this case quite a while ago so I can't remember if my shims were of different thicknesses. Sorry I couldn't be of more precise help at the moment... I will see if I can dig up the GM book and help you better. God Bless!
geb: I am having trouble sliding the shift rails through. I have one in but the other one I can't get past the upper pin. Any thoughts?
Milan Brehm it’s hard to say. Maybe there is a burr or slight imperfection in the rail if it were dropped or something? Are they going back in the same holes? Perhaps it needs an ever so gentle tapperoo? Lube it up?
GebBuilt, What state do you live in?
The great and still free state of Iowa!
Cool color
Outstanding video, thank you so much! For anyone else getting their asses kicked by those roll pins, you can just start them in the shift forks before putting the shift forks in. See this quick video:
th-cam.com/video/2HRjPg-0XfA/w-d-xo.html
Thank you, I am glad you enjoyed. Thank you for the tip! God bless!
Great tip! thanks.
Where did you get your gasket set from where you rebuild kid I should say
About how long does the actual process take? Not including pulling and putting back on the truck
Could be done very easily In a weekend if you have all of the parts you need. I'm sure a pro could do it in part of a day.
I'm 18yrs old, I'm in process of a 203-205 4-1 with a sm456. I've watched your teardown and rebuilds now.... where can I get a whole rebuild set for my 205... seals. etc ect.... And my shaft teeth are wore down terrible. where cabin get one of those and not break the bank
I got my NP205 goodies off of Ebay- Just be careful not to get cheapo no- name bearings. I'd recommend Timken bearings if possible. I've purchased good shafts from salvage yards but they're getting very hard to come by so I'd check Ebay for that as well. Excellent questions and thank you for watching!!Have fun with your build- God Bless!!
Thank ya, you been a go to on this build... And have helped tremendously
Excellent!
My brother inlaw has a 76ish ford with the 205 and he mud runs with it and when running though the pit the 4 wheel drive goes into neutral. the stick doesn't move they pull it into neutral and back and it's fine after that. Do you know what that could be
That's hard to pinpoint from here, but it sounds like it definitely needs a rebuild and I would suspect he's going to need some hard parts. Thank you for watching and the great question! God bless!
Old post, but for future readers. That can be caused by the detent springs being old and weak. JB custom fab has adjustable ones that you can replace with the 205 still installed if you can get to the top of it. If that doesn't work then check the notches in the rails, shift collars, and syncros.
Love taps. .....lol awesome vid....very informative
Haha glad you enjoyed!
I have an np205 transfer case on a 1993 dodge cummins, it is stuck in neutral and I cannot get the shift forks to engage to any range. What can I do?
Cyrus Ullmann rebuild it! Possibly just a simple linkage issue. I’d use process of elimination with the linkages. Then rebuild it.
@@GebBuilt awe man! I was hoping I wouldn't have to. I just spent a month rebuilding my cummins 12 valve in my truck (broken camshaft). So before I tear apart the np205 should I try to just free up the shift rails?
We have about 3/16 free play is that within tolerance on the first step of rebuild ?,,,center gears
Book spec is 0 to 0.002" end play in the idler gears. 3/16" is WAY too much, you must have it assembled wrong.
I just rebuilt my np205. from the factory, the order of things on the idler, front to back, was:
1. Lock nut (& washer? I forget).
2. Bearing race
3. Bearing cone
4. Spacer shims (mine had 0.054" of shims total, and i kept it that way despite new bearings).
5. Spacer sleeve
6. Bearing cone
7. Bearing race
130 foot pounds of torque on the lock nut, if i rememeber correctly.
Check that the idler gears spin freely once assembled. If you put too few/thin shims in, or put them on the other side of a bearing, then the bearings will be way too tight and will overheat if forced to run very long.
Can you swap a 203 for a 205 in a 75 Chevy Cheyenne K10 4x4??
Do the bearings in the idler shaft need grease?
Nope, they will all be lubed with the gear oil.
He mentions that the synchro has to be on the gear and in the fork before driving the roll pin. But at 16:58, he knocks the synchro off after the roll pin is in, but is still able to slide it back on the gear. In order to line up my Ford 205 roll pin windows, the synchro barely sits on the edge of the gear, as soon as I line up the windows, the shift fork arms knock the synchro off every time. I don't see how he is putting the synchro back on without pulling the shift rails and the fork each time, to put the synchro back in the fork...
for driving roll pins in blind holes just use some masking tape and tape the pin to the end of the punch.
Tore my Gm np205 round 6 down and only had 3 shims, two thin and one a little thicker. Is this normal? Should I have 4? Does it matter their orientation on the spacer? The fell out the case before I could tell where they were.
Quantity and orientation does matter. They were custom set by the factory to account for manufacturing variance. A good manual will have the procedure to reset it.
Grant I know this was 3 years ago but mine was the same way it just had 3 shims between the collar and the bearing on the side closest to the threaded part of the shaft.
Very helpful much appreciated
Thank you for watching and taking the time to let me know! God bless!
I found the perfect tool to start the roll pins
1/4" hey drive magnetic adapter
Let the magnet hold the roll pin to get it started
@14:40 pro tip: use welding wire to guide the pin in place
How about doing one on a 241c
Maybe some day but I don't have plans for one in the near future. Thank you for watching!
Don't you mean needle bearings
I cant move it
And the last major part
I Stopped Watching on Rolie Polie Ha!!!
Haha, that's a technical term! God bless!
might you know where i can get a 205 front shift rail 4x4 light switch, 1984 gm#15594176 ? used because out of new nos
Hello, my idler shaft spins when I try to torque it down. Any suggestions?