Your First Engine Job - Tearing Into It's Guts. Pistons And Rod Removal And Inspection
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
- Our 4.0 core engine was purchased as being bad, but with unknown internal damage. While we found many signs of overheating as we disassemble the top end, the real mess was down in the bottom end.
Here's the general procedure for piston and rod removal and inspection as well as some of the clues to the engines history be reading the parts as we proceed.
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The washing of the cylinders by gasoline could have been caused by multiple Issues for example it could have had a bad fuel injector that staying open it could have a bad fuel pressure regulator..These 4.0 engines are also known for having oiling issues on cylinder #6 my dad has blown up 2 of these engines and both cylinder 6s were ran Without oil somehow I think it's just the bad design of this engine or a flaw perhaps in the oiling ...?
Port injected, so a stuck injector would only wash one cylinder...and a bad coolant temp sensor would not have fed this volume of gas to the engine. Same with a non functioning pressure regulator (unless the diaphragm is ruptured but then the engine probably wouldn't run for more than a few seconds, and again it would mostly effect the cylinder closest to the vacuum port) A bad MAP will absolutely wash the inside of an engine by hanging the injectors wide open.
@@UncleTonysGarage My 4.0 was over fuelling badly, to the point of diluting the engine oil. Turned out to be a badly cracked exhaust manifold/ header and a bad o2 sensor.
Second on the MAP sensor .
My nephew bought an 88 2wd 5 speed the PO got tired of trying to fix . Of course they had no idea WTH they were doing so in true shade tree fashion proceeded to fire multiple broadsides from the parts cannon .
None of these parts was a new MAP sensor and half the.lines were disconnected or misrouted .
So my nephew gets this heap home and it promptly set the grass under it on fire .
The MAP sensor vacuum line was unhooked making the computer believe the engine was at WOT and maxed out the injector duty cycle .
All this fuel caused the catalytic converter to overheat .
Luckily I had a garden hose handy and spent the next 3 days fixing all the " repairs " done by the PO .
After that the thing was as dependable as could be and no more grass fires .
Map has a very high priority on fueling.
Why do the rods and caps need to be kept together?
Love the slow pace of these videos. For a guy who knows FA about stuff like this, it's fascinating.
I use a sheet of cardboard marked front/back and driver/passenger when I have to keep track of bolts. Just pop them through in order and it's easy to keep track.
When I bag parts on big projects l all ways tag things Driver or pass side.
^^^ This. Scrap of cardboard, label with felt tip marker, punch holes for bolts, valves, etc. I 'number' pistons and rods using very light 'hash marks' cut with a thin abrasive wheel in a Dremel. *gasp!* On aluminum, light marks with a small chisel work too. Don't make these marks on highly stressed areas, such as connecting rod beams or middle of rod caps. Mark the same areas used for balancing.
@oneeyedcat3072 sub to him if you can please
These episodes are released exactly a month behind my first tear down and rebuild process, step for step. Feels like uncle Tony is grading me every step of the way
In high school autoshop, we stamped cylinder numbers on each cap, rod, piston and in such a way we had a reference to not reverse them - they went back in the exact sample places and orientaion. Values were kept in a wooden jig with numbered holes/boxes to hold each valve with their rocker and springs.
Took a class at my local community college where I learned about this process. Was able to dig into a bunch of new engines, and learned a lot of really good stuff. Now I am about to start in on my 1966 Cadillac CDV. Been looking at her in the garage for months, and I do believe the time is near for our relationship to grow =) Thank you or these videos!
Making a video or group of videos that give a semi detailed instruction to engine tear down, rebuild and reassembly is a daunting task.
Tony, The best auto shop teacher you never had! Lol. Your stuff is wonderful Tony. You instruct but you entertain at the same time. What a great personality. Thanks, Dave
I usually number stamp my rod caps and main caps. That's was what my grandpa use to do.
Dots with a centre punch.🇨🇦
Mine came back from the machine shop like that. Every last cap flattened slightly out of round by the impacts. Very bitter about this even 40 yrs later.
my grandpa always said if you cant fix it with a screw driver, or hammer or a gross of rubbers just fuck it. no my grandpa didnt say that lol actually i was at a ford class and our tech said mechanics are getting lazy and those were the tools for a job if it took any more they wipe there hands of doing the job . i understood where he was coming from blunt and to the point great Tech he was
Hey Tony. Better to sit and watch each step as it comes (even if it is in silence) than to just explain in a general way, without showing the procedure. I much prefer your way, over some others who really don't want to show too much, and seem to like the sound of their own voice.
Keep doing good!!!
agreed...the suspense of going thru the whole motor & finding the failure
I'm using your playlist to make sure my first build is going on track! 🙏 so its working, i watch everything you make cuz it's honestly the best methods for me
An alternative to pounding down the pistons is to use a piece of woodstick. Hickory is hard and nice, and will not make any dents regardless.
I just did a 2.3 Ranger engine that drove into the shop. The piston skirt and rings were laying in the bottom of the pan. Ended up doing a hone job on it and a new set of pistons rings and bearings.
I saw a trick online that uses a big piece of cardboard for bolts. You take one bolt off at a time and place in the position as they were on. I took a sharpie pen and drew a simple outline or write what the bolt group is for. I use a drill to make a pilot hole quickly before pushing each bolt through the cardboard. Im telling you, its so easy and makes life 1,000 easier when taking things apart and putting back
Also an exhaust leak before an o2 sensor will read lean and over time will correct by adding fuel washing the cylinders down, good video.
thank you for this series. i'm new to engine building and owning classic cars. i've found your channel super helpful
Yes exactly. Those rod and caps have to go back on the exact rod and correct direction that they came off. Same with the main bearing caps, put back exactly where and direction they came from. Very important.
I like the slow pace of these videos, after 30+ years of only changing out "wear parts" like starters, misc parts, I'm getting ready to attempt my first "rebuild" (Toyota 22r) Plan is same as this, just replace all parts with stock (except cam, to go with the header and Weber/ Offy manifold!)
Valve job, new rings, bearing, new cam with lifters, gaskets, soft pugs, etc ! $500 AND 100,000 MILES! GOOD to go!
YOU TAKE YOUR TIME ! All the time you need !
Uncle Tony i wish I had these videos when I was a teenager pulling engines out in my mother's driveway . I'm 49 now and my fear is there's generations of kids who can't open a car hood .
What about numbering the rod caps and rods to make sure you get them back on the way they came apart
You can, or just remember the locks always go together when putting the cap back on the rod.
@oneeyedcat3072 sub to him if you can please
I love the tap on the rod bolt nuts technique to separate the rod cap from the rod thank you
the wire you keep finding could be the spring under the timing cover that keeps the camshaft back
An easy trick to not lose parts or fasteners is to minimize the time between tear down and reassembly
The small block chevy sitting in the corner of my shop for the last five years would probably agree with you
I never lose fasteners. I always have extra after the job 😬
on my engine tear downs i will place the bolts back into the holes they come out of. keeps them where they go when you need to put it back together. another time step but pays in the long run.
@@bob8776 i know the pain of that reality
@@erwinnijs1 WOW that can be a problem do you have extra rod bolts ;-)
Snails past is perfect for me. I have time to absorb details that we usualy skip cause we want to eat the dessert already!
Nice content uncle Tony again.
My first American car was a 1964 283 Chevrolet Impala, it had an engine noise which I was told maybe a stuck lifter.
I changed the lifters, still the same. Turned out to be a cracked piston, the only thing holding it together was the steel strap cast into the pin boss !.
I admit to getting "antsy" waiting for each episode of this series to appear, but I appreciate that Uncle Tony is taking the time to be thorough.
I appreciate your patience! It's a fine line between overwhelming the channel with one series and keeping the flow moving on this.
Uncle Tony, your advice about mixing up the pistons and rods may turn around and bite someone's back side. one rod journal or cylinder bore may have over sized piston or an undersized rod journal. and if a novice doesn't catch it, he or she can be in a world of hurt. it's always better to put things back where they came from. ESPECIALLY if they are going to reuse some of the parts.
I recently replaced the oil pan gasket on my ‘74 Imperial. There was a connecting rod nut laying in the bottom of the pan. Ofcourse none of the nuts on the rods were missing otherwise you would blow the engine. I was atill shocked to find it. This was an all original engine, never been apart.
Same. I like to "feel" what the bolt or nut does as I remove or tighten.
Very similar of how I work.. again great conformation that I have been on track with my projects…
YES!!! The Old School "Speed handle" 👍👍
I would have liked to see if that last main girdle bolt was as tight before removing all of the rest. Ive always thought that you want to remove main bolts in reverse order.
No shade just admiration/curiosity. You have created a great channel with copious and easily digested info as well as what looks to be a kickass life brother! Keep up the good work!
You demonstrated exactly why I never turn the engine upside down until I have first removed the oil pan. This keeps any shrapnel and gack from falling down into the reciprocating assembly.
I've had many 4.0 jeeps over the last 30 years. Most had a lil piston slap noise.
Tony, another good vid as usual. I wondered if, maybe for next update or maybe a separate spin-off upload (if you think it would be too off the spirit of 1st engine job theme) you could grab one set of main cap, main brg, rod cap, rod brg, & crank from one of the open late model cast crank 225 slant6s that you have laying around to compare with those on that 4.0L-Jeep inline6. Not to try to suggest that 7 main brg design is in some ways better than 4 main brg design (or visa-versa), but to see how it affects things like: general shape/layout of crank, crank cheeks, counterweights, block main webs, crank crankcase, overall crank length, weight, overall engine length, etc. Also I'm not trying to troll or upset any loyal Jeep folks, after all we're still both under the same Ma Mopar banner aren't we?
When I see the filings in the oil pan I wonder if it's worth while to set a cow magnet in the oil pan to grab metal and keep it from circulating through again and again.. Did you happen to do a compression test on this engine? It would be interesting to know where each cylinder was at.
I run a magnetic drain plug and noticed a new timing chain set (cast gear vs oem nylon) sluffed and an minor afro accumulated on the magnet for a while.
I want to begin using my cheap boroscope through the drain plug, don't expect to find anything but ya' never know if you don't look.
Good idea to use sump pan for all the pieces I do the same
I think Uncle T got the motor from my old ZJ. Bad water pump on the way home at 2 am, stopped several times to cool it down. Next day, no startie... bummer...
I like the way you work and operate:) I have a 1997 Cherokee I've had 20 years. Good vehicle:)
Unc: Maybe the boys and girls should be reminded to put pieces of fuel hose or those nice plastisol booties by Michigan or Clevitel on the conrod bolts . I have seen many cranks with the telltale mark of 3 or 4 marks from the conrod bolt threads on the journals.
Map sensor or maybe the thermostat was stuck open for a really long time. That can cause an injected motor to go rich.... Or maybe the coolant temp sensor.
When the check engine light comes on. Sometimes it really really means check the engine.
Especially when the check engine light stops working.
If you didn't already know, do NOT use a high volume oil pump on a 4 liter. They just don't need the extra volume, and it's very likely to just chew up the cam gear. I've personally had it happen, and I found out after the fact from the machine shop I had do my work that it's super common on 4 liters with HV pumps. Also, I've had 2 of my own 4.0s meet their demise with broken OEM piston skirts.
That’s true for many engines. Common practice is to put HV oil pumps in at overhaul because ‘ it’s better’. Common result was sheared pump driveshafts. Also, burst oil filters was a problem. A standard volume pump is plenty sufficient for street use.
Between watching this series and David Visard's videos, I'm ready to find a Junkyard engine to build. The LT1 in my 96 Buick Roadmaster sedan has over 170k miles so I know I need to rebuild it. But since I don't have the time, money, or another car to drive. I think getting a complete engine to rebuild would be my best bet. Cause I can't afford any surprises
This series is pure gold! Can’t Thank You enough Uncle T!
Tony's speed wrench......classic ! ...and yes I do own one .
is it possible the bits of wire came from the oil pick up tube strainer thing?
thats all i can think of
YES!!! Early to a video release!! Thank you for these videos.
@oneeyedcat3072 sub to him if you can please
Peace from the fringes of the jersey turnpike.
The piston skirts are super common on the 4Ls. I had the same issue with my 2002 wrangler. instead of putting the 4L back we put in a 5.2L magnum. using the bell housing from a 3.9L magnum we could mount it to the jeep trans.
@@carlt6932 Its fuel injected. As long as you end up with the right computer the body and chassis harness is plug and play! even the factory gauges work properly.
As I watched you remove the #1 piston, I noticed you just pulled it out of the cylinder without preventing the end of the rod possibly scraping the cylinder wall.
You're doing God's work, Uncle Tony.
Truly, thank you.
I think that jeep 4.0L was built on a Thursday before a long weekend
After lunch, when workers could still go to local bar.
In that case a lot of them were built like that. Mines got piston slap from hell
The Strong’s Garage boys just found an old (house) door hinge pin and a 1976 penny in the oil pan of their Ford Model B oil pan.
on the egine i rebuilt got became a stroker. But keep an eye on the push rods lenths ( they where all different lenths on mine) so I put in an adjustable rocker arm kit.
UTG is the "Bob Ross" of engines ......I can watch either all day long.......well maybe not ALL day.
Thank you Sir👍
If fuel dilution happened, why wouldn’t the bearings be damaged from lack of lubrication? I think that’s been the problem with modern GDI Honda engines right now.
Gotcha beat...... Pulled the pistons out of 351 Windsor with unknown millions of miles on it. One of the piston skirts was broken but the piece was still trapped by the angle of the fracture holding it against the cylinder wall and just following the piston in its travels up and down. It had been that way for so long the edges of the fracture were beginning to smooth out. The piece didn't fall out until I drove the piston out of the cylinder......Weirdest thing I had ever seen.
I have been in the automotive trade for 49 years, and your instruction is spot on. If I make one suggestion, use a section of broom stick to drive the pistons out, some engines will have a pronounced ridge at the top of the bore, and people that haven't done this before may put too much force into removing them. The wood will absorb some of the beating.
As soon as I saw you pull that broken skirt out I said to myself that has to be #6. I think Chrysler undersized the pistons from the factory, and I just did a quick search and it seems that it's common on 99-2002 and that the castings were bad for those years, but why it happens so often on #5 and #6 I'm not so sure.
The girdle is interesting, I personally have an 88 and mine either didn't come with one or was removed.
Those came in 96 along with some added beef to the block for NVH issues ( noise vibration harshness ..) .
They can be retrofitted to earlier blocks .
Kaboom is right on the money. The girdle was a 96+ add on for NVH. As far as #6 popping the skirt, its fairly common when you overheat these blocks, #6 is the hottest running cylinder, due to the path of coolant to it. As far as castings go, thats the head castings. If your head was marked TUPY, it was one of the redesigned heads that fixed the cracked castings due to the coil over plug bosses being too close to the water jacket, Tony's got a distributor ignition engine so he shouldnt have the head issue. Should have the 0621 head on it if my memory serves me correctly.. Tony- your right on the money with the MAP sensor, most likely the vacuum line running from the manifold to the MAP split, and it was getting an atmospheric reading, and the engine went into WOT fueling mode. Had that happen on both the MJ and my 93 XJ once. Usually its the rubber 90 degree fitting that fails. Those rod bearings looked mint though. The old AMC Inline's could take a pounding and keep running. Over-engineering at its finest. Those and the old 300 straight sixes will still be running somehow when the last human is walking the face of the earth lol.
Jeep 4.0's (which also applies to all AMC inline 6's) used letter coded pistons that had generally loose tolerances that varied by a couple ten thousandths of an inch and were selected based on bore diameter to reduce the number of scrapped blocks. That's why OEM Jeep 4.0 have that tell tale noise at idle. A reman motor won't have the noise due to all bore being "equal" and piston matching the diameter. They did the same for rod and main bearings It was common to have different bearing shells top and bottom in both sets of rod and mains to meet tolerance needs. Was a Jeep tech for over 20 years.
The "girdle" was added starting in 1996 to combat NVH (noise vibration and harshness) and did stiffen the bottom end a lot. It's a direct fit all you need are the main bolts, girdle and nuts.
@@carllmack2287 So was I, I started working for AMC in late 85 and transitioned into Dodge in 2006. I worked at several dealerships where I was the only Jeep tech. My easy overflow would go the the Ford techs. I remember crank kits with odd size bearings. I thought that was really strange. I remember the MS1700 scanner, in that blue box. It didn’t just read the codes, it tested sensors as it ran through the program. 🤣
Surprised you didn't put hose on the rod bolts so the crank doesn't get nicked....
NICE TO HAVE A PRO REALLY EXPLAIN WHATS GOING ON.
I called it. Of course, seeing it, dozens, and dozens of times in the 2008-2010 when teenagers were buying them used, and cash 4 clunkers made finding junkyard 4.0 engines a real assache.
wire came from wire wheel most likely. knocking off the gasket, silicone when the pan was dropped at some point.
Thankyou
The oil pan Gaskets that come on those really stick on hard, I wonder if all that steel wire is remnant of the new oil pan gasket job, maybe they used steel wool to clean the gasket surface
A bad upstream o2 sensor will cause a fat condition as well. All because the pcm doesn’t know how much fuel is being burned so it richens the system as to not have a lean condition in the engine..
Yep, had that happen a couple times on my old ZJ, o2 dies and it runs so rich it'll only run ok floored.
@@jacobellis9820 ya my wj did the same.. and after letting it go so long it also gummed up the rings in the pistons and all the heat from blow by eventually cracked number 5 piston skirt and the wrist pin worked loose of the piston and worked a window into the block under the header..
Or the famously shitty cracked exhaust manifolds
@@f.chrisliuzzo7889 I found out with the o2 sensor I could unplug it and it would force the computer to run off base maps instead of bad signal. It was still a little rich but not nearly as bad until I got a replacement sensor in it.
@@jacobellis9820 some Chrysler products do that and have it built into the pcm..
The girdle was added to later models in an effort to help NVH.
Matye those are safety wires to secure the rod bolts after removing shims to compensate for the babbit bearings wearing. You never know!
I love my speed wrenches
In your opinion what makes these engines so durable and long lasting? In-line six configuration ?
Inline 6 just makes them well balanced and smooth. Longevity comes from the design being under-stressed.
@oneeyedcat3072 sub to him if you can please
I love your shows. You are an excellent teacher. You take your time and explain all the little details. Exactly what I need as a beginner hobbyists mechanic/hot rodder.
Wire in the pan is one thing I found a razor blade in oil pan once no clue how it got there
Easy on bouncing your rod bolts against the crank especially if you are not going to polish. I try to never tap on rod bolts that are the stud and nut. If they move in the rod often they don't tourqe up round. I have customers do this often when they pull there motor apart and i often have to resize the rods.
Wire could be from cross threading oil drain plug
Looks like a lightening job on that piston
I saw one 4.0 let go like this hard enough it looked like a bomb went off in there, didn't disassemble farther than pulling the #6 plug and finding a battered nub, but based on the noise I doubt there was much more than the wrist pin left.
knew it was goin to be cracked /broken skirt but i thought it was goin to be #5 piston
Why do I get the feeling someone was in that engine before you got it? No way a messed up piston like that not effect the cylinder walls in some way recognizable.
I love the wire Bubba left in there
Maybe the wire is from the front cover seal tension spring? If it is though, it really got uncoiled somehow lol.
What are the correct installed degrees between the top (firing) compression ring, second compression and the third (oil) ring in reference to the piston boss?
I love this content, Uncle Tony. Thank you
Number 6 wrist pin
There's a connection between the wire and the broken piston.
Just like the 67 to pre 1994 model year Ford 300 six, a skirt lifter when over reved.Often piston number 5
The bottom of a wooden hammer handle is good for newbies
Tony your a pro. Pro level is pick-your-own tool. 😂
Tony, was that a 66-7 Charger behind you? All I can see is the grille.
HOW DO YOU DO A BRAKE IN PROCEDURE OF A REBUILD ENGINE WHEN DRIVING THE FIRST TIME,
Sweet good information, brother 👌. We all get something out of these videos.
Tony all 4.0s rattle and make noise... mine has been doing it since 2000 when i bkugjt it with 24k miles on my 98.. and it has 400k miles now
this was a in frame overhaul with some one that had NO IDEA WHAT they were doing and i thing part of the problem if STUCK injectors with this much i would check for out of round Cylinders that motor WAS DETONEING Badly and the evidence of over heating
this will need pistons all of some and may be boring i think all of this because some one did not want to service looking to see the next video
I wonder if those head bolts being stretched wasn't made worse by only one trip over them with the torque wrench? Or if they weren't loose from the factory?
I did some work on a couple N14s a few years ago, it took 6-8 times over the torque pattern til they all stayed tight.
My 79 F150 302 has both piston and connecting rods stamped with cylinder numbers from the factory in 79. Are all pistons stock and the difference in the cylinder is taken up by the rings (ie) 30 over ect? My truck is bore is 4” and 3” stroke. Just asking.
Cool to see some wrenching, less talk.
cracked and /or broken pistons seems to be a common failure on those engines.
What would cause the piston to fall apart like that?.