When I listen to you like this, I am waiting for the comment; “Houston, we have a problem.” Luckily I haven't heard that yet. You are an astronaut in the metal world and come up with a solution almost every time. I look forward to the next one, to the stars and beyond. Kind regards from the Netherlands.
My Dad was a machinist, worked in small shops after WW 2 till 1964. He didn't want me to be a machinist!! Wanted me to learn to be a auto mechanic!!! WHY ? SO HE COULD HAVE A FREE MECHANIC!!! "He did pay for the schooling" just took a LONG time to pay it off... I enjoyed your video (subscribed)
videography is top flight, really value the callouts on doc, speed and feeds and when u are experimenting with different tool execution like the tool holder u had to heat up and insert endmill. keep it up!
I watch videos all the time like this with good solid American Iron lathes just eating up metal, later in the shop I’m shaking my head as I’m changing out one insert after another because my little Clausing Metosa can’t handle them huge cuts.. lol.. when it grows up it’s gonna be an American pacemaker! Haha That is one nice looking knob you spun up man. Nice work all around. 🍻
Wow, amazing work. I just shake my head when you’re hogging on the American, it’s ridiculous. Cool idea with the heat shrink tooling. Will look into that. Can’t get over how nice your Colchester runs. Need to get motivated to work on mine.
Nice piece and a great machining video. would you be able to post a link on that induction heater, it looks like a nice shop addition for shrink fits and heat treating small parts. Cheers!
CNC machinist: I calculated the best rpm for this operation to be 1787. Manual machinist: The gearbox of my old Clausing Weiler Meuser is least rattly at 600 rpm, I am gonma 600 rpm everything.
I am not sure if it is the camera angle, but it seems to me that your parting tool blade usually sticks out too much... Nice project and great proof of concept!😂! By the way I love the sound of those lathes. No gear rattling... Thank you for sharing. You are a good men.
Loved your work, you got a like and a new sub. You have such a nice finish, I'd go with shiny not blued, but it's yours, and you have to look at it more often....if its a pain to keep naked, then blu is better than rust!
looks dang good my man! Will say though, from plenty-a personal experience with hot rolled goodies, you can get an even better finish! Golden rule of mild steels in general: more or less doesn't matter what brand of manual lathe you have, it's max rpm is still in the low end for the surface speed you want. Only limitting factor would be a lathe that starts vibrating wildly above 2k rpm...But if your lathe is as robust as it sounds, 2-3k should be no problem at all!
I've never seen a dial like that on a tailstock, very good feature because the marking that are usually on the shaft always get covered in oil and become difficult to read.
Over the top for sure!,looks great! So snooping while watching,what are you painting magenta? you paint your stuff in cool colors. Looks like a large collection of chucks too. As usual great video.
I know it created extra work, but I wanted a smoother transition where the two rings are and some of the operations were a little easier to do with the clearance. I know it may not seem obvious, initially I was going to do it in one op but when I got to cutting the reliefs out I realized I would get a better result if I did it in 3 pieces, if only just slightly better.
If you'd have used the same parting tool (that you parted the rings with) to cut the grooves, the transition would have been the same. Less waste, lower cost, and no chance of separation later on.
Usually a dulled cutting edge. Could also be chipped. Surface speed could be excessive as well. The type of carbide may as well be a factor due to materiel hardness.
Mostly to achieve the best possible surface finish in the area and allowed more room to work with the areas. Also made it easier during straight knurling as well. It may not seem obvious but there are several reasons to do it that way. Most all of them add lots of work but make a slightly better result
NIce design, But i'd have done it differently.. You could have made the knob in one piece, by milling the groove, and then mill the slots, Heck!, you could also turn the grooves and mill then.. When making the part with the grooves, when there's an even number of grooves, you could have done them across.. would have given the same result, and always chamfer the back to make a relief for the cutter radius in the bottom of the pocket. (or make a small groove in there as well.. Apart from that.. Nice job!.. i'd blue it for sure.. prevents rust.. and it looks more factory made
What was the point of adding the rings after the fact as opposed to just leaving that metal there when you turned down the part in the first place? Maybe I'm missing something, seems like a lot of added work for no benefit. Great work overall, really beautiful piece
Lots of work for a little benefit. Mostly had to do with clearance of end mill during the knurling section. Also the surface finish in the sections of material that was reduced. Also the knurl and relieved area are at different heights. It’s hard to tell but I was mimicking a Jacob’s chuck as precisely as I could if I changed the design slightly I could have saved work, but this was fun so I wasn’t worried about that.
Not quite sure why you switched machines... First process OD of handle, second process smaller OD and bore with tapping. Easy peasy, and you can get great runout on a 3 jaw, like under a thousandth.
It must have just been fixturing or ease of use. My 3 jaw is good but not as good as the six jaw I also am have slightly different tools on each lathe also 6 jaw does better from minimizing scratching on surface.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair make yourself a few sets of soft jaws and bore them to fit your work piece, it's actually easy ASF tbh. Im not trying to critique you,you have a lot more toys than I do, but I play with toys that are expensive ASF at work. I'm just saying, you did a lot of unnecessary changes. As a machinist, you know that you only do what's necessary. It turned out awesome, I'll give you that.
_"little bit of flair"_ Translation : "I decided to out-xzibit the man himself and overpimped my dial knob so much, that apple asked me to design their new security screw."
@@19672701 oh, lord. [grits the teeth of a retired teacher] (note to self: do not try to explain the ‘est’ suffix meaning as ‘the most’. E.G., The most most redundant response.) ):
What you call as "centre drill" isn't a centre drill. But a centre/counter sink drill. You only use the thicker drill part for counter sinking and for the use of a live/dead centre. Not to start a drill hole as the cutting angle of the thicker part doesn't match the angle of most drill bits. This will make the drill bit wander. Just buy "real" centre drill bits, for this type of job 👍
You don't need to abuse your tools on my behalf. Use lubricant. Most people who watch these types of videos have seen chips come out of a drilled hole. Save your self some time and lube up.
Maybe. I do use lubricant all the time but certain clips I don’t for the video. You may not care but it’s hard to get a good shot when everything is Smokey all the time.
When I listen to you like this, I am waiting for the comment; “Houston, we have a problem.” Luckily I haven't heard that yet. You are an astronaut in the metal world and come up with a solution almost every time. I look forward to the next one, to the stars and beyond.
Kind regards from the Netherlands.
Awesome thank you sir
My Dad was a machinist, worked in small shops after WW 2 till 1964. He didn't want me to be a machinist!! Wanted me to learn to be a auto mechanic!!! WHY ? SO HE COULD HAVE A FREE MECHANIC!!! "He did pay for the schooling" just took a LONG time to pay it off... I enjoyed your video (subscribed)
Thanks!
Your Dad was a wise man😁😁😁😁😁
You are a legend
That has come out absolutely stunning. Excellent design and execution!
Thank you
That was a lot of work and it turned out fantastic.
Thank you!
I love the look of that blue lathe sooooooo much! Its an amazing color and amazing shape!
Thank you
Best kind of shop project. Nice mix of precision and art and It’ll put a big smile 😊 on your face every time you touch it. 👍👍😎👍👍
Thank you!
Nice job! I watched it all. At around 40 min I realised i was so intently watching that I forgot what the part was for.😅
lol it happens
What a great job! expert machining
Thank you
Great design. I love it!
Thank you
videography is top flight, really value the callouts on doc, speed and feeds and when u are experimenting with different tool execution like the tool holder u had to heat up and insert endmill. keep it up!
Awesome, thank you!
thanks for sharing feeds and speeds. love it!
My pleasure!
Excellent voice over. Very clear
Thank you!
after watching this again and saw what u did with your handles it made me want a dividing head so i bought one!!!! can't wait to use it.
I was using mine again today. They are great
i know they are mostly for gears but your handles gave me other ideas....@@VanoverMachineAndRepair cant wait to see what other uses u have for it.
Beautiful work
Thank you!
I watch videos all the time like this with good solid American Iron lathes just eating up metal, later in the shop I’m shaking my head as I’m changing out one insert after another because my little Clausing Metosa can’t handle them huge cuts.. lol..
when it grows up it’s gonna be an American pacemaker! Haha
That is one nice looking knob you spun up man. Nice work all around. 🍻
Thank you. American is a great machine
That is really impressive!
Thank you
Dude, that’s Office Space levels of flair. 🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thanks
Seriously under rated channel! Outstanding work! Love the Fireball vise!
Thank you very much!
VERRY Impressive !!
Appreciate it
Wow, amazing work. I just shake my head when you’re hogging on the American, it’s ridiculous. Cool idea with the heat shrink tooling. Will look into that. Can’t get over how nice your Colchester runs. Need to get motivated to work on mine.
Cool! Thanks!
Good luck on your project!
Very nice!
Thank you!
Nice piece and a great machining video. would you be able to post a link on that induction heater, it looks like a nice shop addition for shrink fits and heat treating small parts. Cheers!
www.amazon.com/Mini-Ductor-Venom-MDV-777/dp/B01N0LR0M0/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=FUWE24SOS7OR&keywords=venom+induction+heater&qid=1699132882&sprefix=venom+induction+%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-4
Happy Saturday 🌴☀️👍
Thanks, you too.
It's a knob with bling. 👍
Thank you!
Niiiiice work!
Thank you!
The cuts you made got me week in the knees 🤣 Nothing better than a hog show👍
Ha ha, I agree!
CNC machinist:
I calculated the best rpm for this operation to be 1787.
Manual machinist:
The gearbox of my old Clausing Weiler Meuser is least rattly at 600 rpm, I am gonma 600 rpm everything.
Do it
Just found your channel and subscribed. Nice work.
Thank you
I am not sure if it is the camera angle, but it seems to me that your parting tool blade usually sticks out too much...
Nice project and great proof of concept!😂!
By the way I love the sound of those lathes. No gear rattling...
Thank you for sharing.
You are a good men.
Thank you!
Very impressive nice
Thank you! Cheers!
Thumbs up from me. 👍
Much appreciated
Loved your work, you got a like and a new sub. You have such a nice finish, I'd go with shiny not blued, but it's yours, and you have to look at it more often....if its a pain to keep naked, then blu is better than rust!
True true
looks dang good my man! Will say though, from plenty-a personal experience with hot rolled goodies, you can get an even better finish! Golden rule of mild steels in general: more or less doesn't matter what brand of manual lathe you have, it's max rpm is still in the low end for the surface speed you want. Only limitting factor would be a lathe that starts vibrating wildly above 2k rpm...But if your lathe is as robust as it sounds, 2-3k should be no problem at all!
Good to know thank you
I've never seen a dial like that on a tailstock, very good feature because the marking that are usually on the shaft always get covered in oil and become difficult to read.
Yeah it is a nice idea I agree with you on the markings.
Wow! Subbed
Thank you
I have no idea what that was but I do know that was a great video. That sucked me in, thought I was in your workshop for a second. 😂👊
Awesome thank you
Over the top for sure!,looks great! So snooping while watching,what are you painting magenta? you paint your stuff in cool colors. Looks like a large collection of chucks too. As usual great video.
Thanks! We’ll have a new video coming of an arbor press in that color, stay tuned!
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair Awesome! can't wait!
Confused why you didn't do that as one piece? (Besides inside work)
I know it created extra work, but I wanted a smoother transition where the two rings are and some of the operations were a little easier to do with the clearance. I know it may not seem obvious, initially I was going to do it in one op but when I got to cutting the reliefs out I realized I would get a better result if I did it in 3 pieces, if only just slightly better.
If you'd have used the same parting tool (that you parted the rings with) to cut the grooves, the transition would have been the same. Less waste, lower cost, and no chance of separation later on.
When you say taking .100 are you making a .050 cut?
Yes. It is over the diameter...
Beat me to it
Pretty impressed with how that American hogs off metal.
It’s impressive. Love that machine
Would be fun to see where this part goes afterwards.
Huge video coming out in a couple of weeks
I know you said the insert was bad due to the sparks coming off it. What makes a bad insert spark like that.
Usually a dulled cutting edge.
Could also be chipped.
Surface speed could be excessive as well.
The type of carbide may as well be a factor due to materiel hardness.
👍
cool cool Hey whats up with the Jakobs collection?
Which collection. Chucks or rubber flex. What are you referring to
i didn't get it why did you make 2 edge rings when you could make them from the same piece?
Mostly to achieve the best possible surface finish in the area and allowed more room to work with the areas. Also made it easier during straight knurling as well. It may not seem obvious but there are several reasons to do it that way. Most all of them add lots of work but make a slightly better result
where does it go?
It’s the knob on the arbor press that prevents the ram from falling down, near the handwheel. They’ll be a complete video coming out shortly.
I'd do a thick plating of Nickle. Then polish it up
Great idea
NIce design, But i'd have done it differently.. You could have made the knob in one piece, by milling the groove, and then mill the slots, Heck!, you could also turn the grooves and mill then..
When making the part with the grooves, when there's an even number of grooves, you could have done them across.. would have given the same result, and always chamfer the back to make a relief for the cutter radius in the bottom of the pocket. (or make a small groove in there as well..
Apart from that.. Nice job!.. i'd blue it for sure.. prevents rust.. and it looks more factory made
Thanks
What was the point of adding the rings after the fact as opposed to just leaving that metal there when you turned down the part in the first place? Maybe I'm missing something, seems like a lot of added work for no benefit. Great work overall, really beautiful piece
Lots of work for a little benefit. Mostly had to do with clearance of end mill during the knurling section. Also the surface finish in the sections of material that was reduced. Also the knurl and relieved area are at different heights. It’s hard to tell but I was mimicking a Jacob’s chuck as precisely as I could if I changed the design slightly I could have saved work, but this was fun so I wasn’t worried about that.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair Makes sense. I've certainly done many projects where I put in a lot of extra work for little added haha
That was quiet a chunky nurl.
Indeed it was
Was that the 91D Tap Handle?
Yes
Not quite sure why you switched machines... First process OD of handle, second process smaller OD and bore with tapping. Easy peasy, and you can get great runout on a 3 jaw, like under a thousandth.
It must have just been fixturing or ease of use. My 3 jaw is good but not as good as the six jaw I also am have slightly different tools on each lathe also 6 jaw does better from minimizing scratching on surface.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair make yourself a few sets of soft jaws and bore them to fit your work piece, it's actually easy ASF tbh.
Im not trying to critique you,you have a lot more toys than I do, but I play with toys that are expensive ASF at work. I'm just saying, you did a lot of unnecessary changes. As a machinist, you know that you only do what's necessary.
It turned out awesome, I'll give you that.
i’m not sure if that’s a good idea by spinning that steel at those rpm’s, especially when the tool chuck is that close to the lathe chuck
Good to know
18:00 .. 19:00 просто рука-лицо.
?
Ah you know me too well. I see big, hot and juicy chips at the beginning of a video I leave a like.
lol me too
_"little bit of flair"_
Translation : "I decided to out-xzibit the man himself and overpimped my dial knob so much, that apple asked me to design their new security screw."
Very nice
The chatter while using parting tool…. Omfg
Glad that was your take away
Have fun cleaning that overengineered handle every time you used it
True
parting tool is way to fast. 100 rpm
👍
Love the videos. One minor complaint: please just say, ‘RPM’, not ‘RPMs’; RPM = Revolution**s** (plural) Per Minute (singular). Cheers!
How about no?
Cool bro
@@grntitan1 that should be, ‘How *is* (or ‘How’s’) about no’. Thanks!
wow,mostest rude comment.
@@19672701 oh, lord. [grits the teeth of a retired teacher] (note to self: do not try to explain the ‘est’ suffix meaning as ‘the most’. E.G., The most most redundant response.) ):
No need to drill dry for the camera.
It’s cause I love you guys
What you call as "centre drill" isn't a centre drill. But a centre/counter sink drill. You only use the thicker drill part for counter sinking and for the use of a live/dead centre. Not to start a drill hole as the cutting angle of the thicker part doesn't match the angle of most drill bits. This will make the drill bit wander.
Just buy "real" centre drill bits, for this type of job 👍
Thanks
You don't need to abuse your tools on my behalf. Use lubricant. Most people who watch these types of videos have seen chips come out of a drilled hole. Save your self some time and lube up.
Maybe. I do use lubricant all the time but certain clips I don’t for the video. You may not care but it’s hard to get a good shot when everything is Smokey all the time.
Try and talk in metric sizes so the rest of the world knows what you are talking about! *The US automotive industry is in metric.
Thanks for the feedback