When making undercuts for threading, the shaft will be stronger if you leave a radius in the corners by using a round-nose grooving tool instead of a cut-off tool.
Yes you are correct. with the force on these guys it is fairly unlikely the shaft will break in general. It is more likely to wear then snap. In theory you are correct.
There is no such thing as overkill. Nobody complained when something was super dead. However, they definitely complain if it's not dead enough. They generally let their displeasure be heard with screams and dying. Just sayin.
you should get a mist lubricator lot easier than a can of oil. Kool Mist 60M12 PORTaMIST Unit, Magnetic Nozzle Positioner, 12" Flexline. topper machine uses it a lot in his videos
Hi Kyle, Thanks for sharing yet another great video. Always nice to follow you and your work on TH-cam. If I may, I suggest you use lathe files to do your edge deburring and chamfering. Also when cutting your threads, if there is the slightest amount of burr, it will score badly and immediately your brass points on the steady rest. This job you did is quite challenging and I hope that once you get the nut done, it will be perfect the hole way on the screw. As for the key way, I would probably used the climbing method as it would put the cutting force on the jack, witch is the reason for using one. Otherwise you get a lifting force and increase tool and part vibration/deviation. You did well to reduce the RPM on the acme thread cutting. Make sure you lubricate intensively as you cut such thread. Tool pressure is immense, as well as contact area. I endorse cutting oil!! God Bless.
I really enjoyed this video with you challenging yourself to see how accurate you could be. It's rare that we don't make a flaw while making a complicated part. It speaks to your confidence that you pointed it out for all to see. Nice job making that part and documenting it.
Just recently turned a new x axis leadscrew for my knee mill. My lathe is almost 100 years old, it came with the frames for the follow and steady rests but no fingers. I used soft window weight gray cast iron for the fingers in the follow rest and it seems to do well in the wear department at least enough to get me through most of the process without having to adjust to account for wear. I ended up using 1045 tg&p for my screw, i wanted to used a piece of 1144 tg&p but i ordered a 1.250" round bar hoping to not have to do a bunch of turning but the bar was bent:( The 1045 yielded a less than desirable finish but it works. Nice job on your screw, looks good!!!
Always fun to see shop made tools work out re follow rest. The lathe I bought was missing both fixed and follow steady rests. So they were made in house, I did have a photo to copy from though, the follow rest on my lathe doesn’t have the 3 supports only 2. The lower support is angled in between middle and lower supports. Bring back some good memories as a retired manual machinist/fitter & turner. Keep up the good work, as your vids are excellent. After the acme threading was done, you could have set up the fixed steady down the line to give yourself rigidity and more room to finish off the part. And yep, what another said, no 90 degree edges. Use radiuses tools, if the part is going to fail, it’s going to be there.
Nice work as ever and logical, always funny to see folks still working to banana dims .your fixture table ranks alongside Stonehenge for the “durable” status.love it
Great video. I enjoyed watching the thread cutting process. I’ve only done a few threads and fought with each of them. However, there is hope as they seem to be getting better. Thanks for all the good effort and camera work.
Well done, end result looks good. Rolled lead screws are generally stronger due to strength hardening but in general are less accurate depending on the manufacturer tolerances. Edit: and forgot to mention, you should be using flood coolant or more thread cutting oil.
Techograhy! Many are accomplished machinists. Conveying those skills to the viewer requires another level of skill . You are something special because the Videograpy in this video is exceptional! Wakodahatchee Chris
Does that Pacemaker have thread reversing on the Apron? Most of the ones that I operated in the Navy Yards did. That's a handy feature to have if you do a lot of threading. No need for using the thread chasing dial, just engage and reverse. The lathes that had it also had stops.
It's interesting that your pacemaker lathe doesn't do metric! I have 1975 ZMM Sofia Bulgarian lathe and it does module, diametric pitch, metric and tpi.
Very nicely done. I haven’t seen an original pacemaker follow rest before so I am curious if the original straddled the carriage with three points of contact, like your steel design, or if it was simply bolted to the side of the carriage and the cast iron dampened the vibration enough to kill the chatter? To make a long story short-ish: I am a professional carpenter/amateur machinist who lucked into a sad bastard of a Rivett 608 PV for a song. Sadly it came with almost no tooling and I have spent more on a NOS steady rest and a used Aloris tool post than I did on the lathe. I had to fabricate my own carriage stop clamp and still need to make a thread counter and a follow rest. I’ve got a chunk of grey cast iron for the thread counter but will either have to try my hand as a pattern maker and contact my local foundry to make a blank for the follow rest (not likely) or make it out of steel (much more likely.) The original Rivett follow rest just bolts to the side of the compound with two bolts and an indexing shelf that fits over the edge. I’m wondering, if I go with steel, will there be to much transferred vibration for a similar mounting system or will I need to have “outriggers” similar to your design? I’m not asking for your answer so much as for your opinion, as someone who successfully made a new follow rest for their lathe.
The cast iron will add a little bit more rigidity. But even the sound of your design and the fact that it mounted the side of the compound doesn’t sound super sturdy so I would be tempted to add outriggers either way.
Great video, enjoyed watching your process and attention to detail along with your narrative. Your follow rest worked great. Q. You probably mentioned or it maybe an optical illusion but the shafts side by side appeared to show the new on much shorter than the original, please explain. Thanks for sharing.
Bearings are good for steady rests but but good on follow rests since the bearing traverses the part. Especially on low tpi threads a bearing could get caught between threads
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair ok so the brass does not get caught because of it's extra width. So, use a wider bearing ? I am just wondering why use a part that rubs and wears when a rolling part is possible.
With rollers there's a greater chance of getting a chip caught in the rollers than with solid brass contacts. Roller type steady rests are usually further away from the cutting tool and the rollers can be shielded from chips if necessary. @@bschwand
I think the answer you are looking for is... Rolling bearings, no matter what the size, are made with hardened materials. Which in turn, can damage anything softer. But, they are lower maintenance. if you watch CEE videos, you can see him using a Steady Rest with Roller Bearings. When he's done, one can see impressions in the work piece, and I'm not talking about the corrective cuts he makes for the Steady. The impressions are inside of those. Being construction equipment, not a big concern. Time is money, and he has customers to keep happy. Bearing Brass is softer them 90% of what you are going to turn, so, no damage to you work. But, in turn, you have to sacrifice some Bearing Brass. Higher maintenance. Both have there pros and cons. It's more about your needs.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepairit’s interesting. I can’t really think of a good way to put an indicator on the acme thread. I’m sure someone has figured this out.
I am a fairly new subscriber and have watched probably 15 of your videos... I am sure you love unsolicited advice, but have you thought about getting a silicone wedding band for the workshop? I know from your accidents video you own your mistakes, and I would hate to see you have a finger ripped off... Anyway great job on the videos and the content. Keep up the good work!!!
@@chuckbeckley7894 I believe it was 1144 which is generally called "stressproof" because it's been heat-treated to relax stress. Neither 12L14 not 4140 are called stressproof.
you should learn a bit about feed and speed, it disappeared as much from the saw blade as the shaft .. by the way, the vibrations came from too little chip depth, the shaft is meant to be pressed up against the support otherwise it will vibrate + you can drive 5 times faster in revolutions
around the minute 21 what was that "chatter" ?? why only in that part? is this some material composition thing? please don't do anything off camera 😢 that sucks haha good job man! r
@@ptv1250 thanks my dude. don't think the chip trapped cuz happened more than one time but the other things you said sounds really possible. thanks again
Congratulation you building your own flow rest, NOTE with tree point tach the material. Do you have a good Lathe the casting bed has two prismatic guide . Most CHINESSE follow rest became ,with only two points MADE CHEAP $$$, WILL no good for do this type of work, only the Machinist decide the tools ,not the plant Manager. .Bay the way very good are you threading the proper way, no to many Lathe operator no this old school ,MAKE AMERICA GREAT AGAIN . Bay from ARGENTINA - CANADA.
You lost me when you said you need a straight bit of material to use a travelling steady, you don't, all you do is have the steady following the cut, not leading it......
Young man you made my day. Spied the cross slide DRO sensor from TRAK. Started there in 1980 and sold, installed and serviced the units. Great videos.
When making undercuts for threading, the shaft will be stronger if you leave a radius in the corners by using a round-nose grooving tool instead of a cut-off tool.
Yes you are correct. with the force on these guys it is fairly unlikely the shaft will break in general. It is more likely to wear then snap. In theory you are correct.
“Overkill” should be your middle name! Nicely done, and I really enjoyed watching you work. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it
Once you make it wrong its too late......
There is no such thing as overkill. Nobody complained when something was super dead. However, they definitely complain if it's not dead enough. They generally let their displeasure be heard with screams and dying. Just sayin.
You do a fantastic job with these long form project videos. They are great, thanks for taking the time to make them for everyone!
Absolutely
Ive never cut an acme thread, really enjoyed watching that
Thank you. They are fun
you should get a mist lubricator lot easier than a can of oil. Kool Mist 60M12 PORTaMIST Unit, Magnetic Nozzle Positioner, 12" Flexline. topper machine uses it a lot in his videos
I got one oil works better on certain occasions
Hi Kyle,
Thanks for sharing yet another great video. Always nice to follow you and your work on TH-cam.
If I may, I suggest you use lathe files to do your edge deburring and chamfering. Also when cutting your threads, if there is the slightest amount of burr, it will score badly and immediately your brass points on the steady rest. This job you did is quite challenging and I hope that once you get the nut done, it will be perfect the hole way on the screw.
As for the key way, I would probably used the climbing method as it would put the cutting force on the jack, witch is the reason for using one. Otherwise you get a lifting force and increase tool and part vibration/deviation.
You did well to reduce the RPM on the acme thread cutting. Make sure you lubricate intensively as you cut such thread. Tool pressure is immense, as well as contact area. I endorse cutting oil!!
God Bless.
Thanks
Love the follow rest, that’s a great set up. I learn something new every video you make.
Does the overall length not matter?
Awesome, thank you! Steve
It’s the same it looks shorter due to camera angle
I really enjoyed this video with you challenging yourself to see how accurate you could be. It's rare that we don't make a flaw while making a complicated part. It speaks to your confidence that you pointed it out for all to see. Nice job making that part and documenting it.
Yeah mistakes are inevitable. Glad you enjoyed it
Just recently turned a new x axis leadscrew for my knee mill. My lathe is almost 100 years old, it came with the frames for the follow and steady rests but no fingers. I used soft window weight gray cast iron for the fingers in the follow rest and it seems to do well in the wear department at least enough to get me through most of the process without having to adjust to account for wear. I ended up using 1045 tg&p for my screw, i wanted to used a piece of 1144 tg&p but i ordered a 1.250" round bar hoping to not have to do a bunch of turning but the bar was bent:( The 1045 yielded a less than desirable finish but it works. Nice job on your screw, looks good!!!
Sounds fun. Thanks
Turned out great. I think your cross slide screw is as long as the bed on my South Bend. LOL!
lol maybe so
Like always - job well done.
Thanks again!
It is for you so only underkill applies, Nice work you had more guts than me during chatter segments. Ray Stormont
Appreciate it Ray
Always fun to see shop made tools work out re follow rest. The lathe I bought was missing both fixed and follow steady rests. So they were made in house, I did have a photo to copy from though, the follow rest on my lathe doesn’t have the 3 supports only 2. The lower support is angled in between middle and lower supports. Bring back some good memories as a retired manual machinist/fitter & turner. Keep up the good work, as your vids are excellent. After the acme threading was done, you could have set up the fixed steady down the line to give yourself rigidity and more room to finish off the part. And yep, what another said, no 90 degree edges. Use radiuses tools, if the part is going to fail, it’s going to be there.
Thank you I appreciate it
Nice work as ever and logical, always funny to see folks still working to banana dims .your fixture table ranks alongside Stonehenge for the “durable” status.love it
Appreciate it thanks
Great video. I enjoyed watching the thread cutting process. I’ve only done a few threads and fought with each of them. However, there is hope as they seem to be getting better. Thanks for all the good effort and camera work.
Thank you
This was great to watch. Nice work!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Beautiful work 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇬🇧
Thank you
Nice job. Follow rest was awesome!
Thank you
Well done, end result looks good. Rolled lead screws are generally stronger due to strength hardening but in general are less accurate depending on the manufacturer tolerances. Edit: and forgot to mention, you should be using flood coolant or more thread cutting oil.
Don’t have flood on it. I limited oil for video sake
Great video, enjoyed watching the process. Cheers
Thanks
wonderful work, thank you for sharing, Paul in Florida
Our pleasure!
Techograhy! Many are accomplished machinists. Conveying those skills to the viewer requires another level of skill . You are something special because the Videograpy in this video is exceptional!
Wakodahatchee Chris
Wow, thank you!
That's what you call precision. Nice video
Thanks 👍
Great explanation and detail. Subbed here.
Thank you
Your processing skills are truly amazing.🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉😊😊😊😊😊
Thank you
Well done. 👍
Thank you! 👍
love your narration .......
Thanks paul
I think you should do as I did and add a drip oiler to your rest.
It's one less thing to worry about, and it's simple in construction.
Maybe good idea
A follow rest? Is that how its referred to in the US? In the UK we call it a travelling steady.Great videos by the way.🤙
Ok cool good to know
Yes, it "follows" the tool. Traveling steady works too.
You are brilliant and proud of your work.
All of the Best for your future projects. Cheers.
Thank you
Good stuff
Thanks
Does that Pacemaker have thread reversing on the Apron? Most of the ones that I operated in the Navy Yards did. That's a handy feature to have if you do a lot of threading. No need for using the thread chasing dial, just engage and reverse. The lathes that had it also had stops.
Yes it does I should use it more often
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair😊
It's interesting that your pacemaker lathe doesn't do metric! I have 1975 ZMM Sofia Bulgarian lathe and it does module, diametric pitch, metric and tpi.
Yeah most American machines don’t do metric
Metric is a standard thread pitch worldwide, just not in Murica.
I know lol
I think everyone has said it for me! Thanks
Yep
You do nice work
Thank you
Very nicely done. I haven’t seen an original pacemaker follow rest before so I am curious if the original straddled the carriage with three points of contact, like your steel design, or if it was simply bolted to the side of the carriage and the cast iron dampened the vibration enough to kill the chatter?
To make a long story short-ish: I am a professional carpenter/amateur machinist who lucked into a sad bastard of a Rivett 608 PV for a song. Sadly it came with almost no tooling and I have spent more on a NOS steady rest and a used Aloris tool post than I did on the lathe. I had to fabricate my own carriage stop clamp and still need to make a thread counter and a follow rest. I’ve got a chunk of grey cast iron for the thread counter but will either have to try my hand as a pattern maker and contact my local foundry to make a blank for the follow rest (not likely) or make it out of steel (much more likely.) The original Rivett follow rest just bolts to the side of the compound with two bolts and an indexing shelf that fits over the edge. I’m wondering, if I go with steel, will there be to much transferred vibration for a similar mounting system or will I need to have “outriggers” similar to your design? I’m not asking for your answer so much as for your opinion, as someone who successfully made a new follow rest for their lathe.
The cast iron will add a little bit more rigidity. But even the sound of your design and the fact that it mounted the side of the compound doesn’t sound super sturdy so I would be tempted to add outriggers either way.
Great video, enjoyed watching your process and attention to detail along with your narrative. Your follow rest worked great. Q. You probably mentioned or it maybe an optical illusion but the shafts side by side appeared to show the new on much shorter than the original, please explain.
Thanks for sharing.
Yeah I looked again at the shot it does look shorter, it’s not though wide angle lense for ya
Why not use some ball bearings on the follow rest instead of the rubbing brass ? Is that done ? Pros/cons ?
Bearings are good for steady rests but but good on follow rests since the bearing traverses the part. Especially on low tpi threads a bearing could get caught between threads
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair ok so the brass does not get caught because of it's extra width.
So, use a wider bearing ?
I am just wondering why use a part that rubs and wears when a rolling part is possible.
With rollers there's a greater chance of getting a chip caught in the rollers than with solid brass contacts. Roller type steady rests are usually further away from the cutting tool and the rollers can be shielded from chips if necessary. @@bschwand
I think the answer you are looking for is...
Rolling bearings, no matter what the size, are made with hardened materials. Which in turn, can damage anything softer. But, they are lower maintenance.
if you watch CEE videos, you can see him using a Steady Rest with Roller Bearings. When he's done, one can see impressions in the work piece, and I'm not talking about the corrective cuts he makes for the Steady. The impressions are inside of those.
Being construction equipment, not a big concern. Time is money, and he has customers to keep happy.
Bearing Brass is softer them 90% of what you are going to turn, so, no damage to you work.
But, in turn, you have to sacrifice some Bearing Brass. Higher maintenance.
Both have there pros and cons. It's more about your needs.
As you tighten the follow rest between passes, how do you know (or verify) that you are not forcing the shaft out of alignment?
It is a feel more than anything
@@VanoverMachineAndRepairit’s interesting. I can’t really think of a good way to put an indicator on the acme thread. I’m sure someone has figured this out.
@@ptv1250great idea, thanks!
How come it is shorter?
It’s an illusion
Why is it shorter than the original?
Nope it’s an illusion
el polvo de esmeril malogra, la bancada del torno, esta debe de protegerse bastante
Agreed
I am a fairly new subscriber and have watched probably 15 of your videos... I am sure you love unsolicited advice, but have you thought about getting a silicone wedding band for the workshop? I know from your accidents video you own your mistakes, and I would hate to see you have a finger ripped off... Anyway great job on the videos and the content. Keep up the good work!!!
I have considered it
Is it shorter? or just looks shorter?
Same length
I don't believe they're the same. I wanna see then close together. They totally look like different lengths.
@@ericsills5290 ok
nice work but 1144 will not last but may be better than what was in there.
Agreed
By no means am I a machinist but could you not put a pair of shoes on the follower rest for better support on the threads
Yeah but clearance can be an issue with a larger contact area
Saya suka ini
Thank you
What material did you make that screw out of?
Stress proof
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair Okay I understand that What type of stress proof What type of material was it? Was a tool still, 12L14, 4140?
1144 stress-proof. @@chuckbeckley7894
I believe 1144 is what people usually mean by stressproof@@chuckbeckley7894
@@chuckbeckley7894 I believe it was 1144 which is generally called "stressproof" because it's been heat-treated to relax stress. Neither 12L14 not 4140 are called stressproof.
1144 steel
Yep
you should learn a bit about feed and speed, it disappeared as much from the saw blade as the shaft .. by the way, the vibrations came from too little chip depth, the shaft is meant to be pressed up against the support otherwise it will vibrate + you can drive 5 times faster in revolutions
👍
around the minute 21 what was that "chatter" ?? why only in that part? is this some material composition thing?
please don't do anything off camera 😢 that sucks haha
good job man! r
Not sure maybe a dip in the diameter caused by wear in lathe making the follow rest have to much gap? Not sure
@@ptv1250 thanks my dude. don't think the chip trapped cuz happened more than one time but the other things you said sounds really possible. thanks again
@@ptv1250 I'm saying nothing hahahahahahahahaa I'm pretty sure you're right 👍🏻
Listen A new cross feed screw
Yeah
1 minute in: we have standard, and we have metric, so we make a standard thread....
METRIC IS THE STANDARD!
lol I don’t have a machine that can cut metric that is up and running so every will be standard until I can do metric.
This Karen got triggered hard on that one :)
Fala muito
👍
Convert metric to standard - only Americans can relate 😅
Agreed
i´ll hope you dont make the screw in the same machine that you gonna use it on.🙂
👍
Congratulation you building your own flow rest, NOTE with tree point tach the material. Do you have a good Lathe the casting bed has two prismatic guide . Most CHINESSE follow rest became ,with only two points MADE CHEAP $$$, WILL no good for do this type of work, only the Machinist decide the tools ,not the plant Manager.
.Bay the way very good are you threading the proper way, no to many Lathe operator no this old school ,MAKE AMERICA GREAT AGAIN . Bay from ARGENTINA - CANADA.
Thank you
This is how I did for similar project: th-cam.com/video/5PaNTR5h37U/w-d-xo.html
Very nice
You lost me when you said you need a straight bit of material to use a travelling steady, you don't, all you do is have the steady following the cut, not leading it......
Sure
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair too stupid to understand so you write a stupid reply, sounds about right from what I saw in your vid.