Once again my wife, Paige, deserves all the credit for setting up the highly requested merch store. She did an amazing job on all the designs! See the description to check them out. As for the next project, it will be one I've alluded to almost from the beginning so I'm excited for a much needed improvement. So look out for that at 10am EST on Friday Sept 30th. And as always, thanks for the support!
for such a a recent channel i feel like you really captured the formula of what a great video is. Beautiful shots and excellent narration.. Congratulations and keep up!
This channel is great! I've been missing TOT, and this one scratches that itch. In fact, both creators have similar sensibilities regarding a focus on the work rather than their mug always being in frame, as well as using narration to explain the project. It keeps it all concise and on point. Personally, I would love to see a collaboration, as these two guys could be hilarious together with their subtle humor.
Thank you for your comment about other TH-cam creators having their mug in frame CONSTANTLY. It's so annoying when you see this on other channels. For those of us who watch machining channels, we all know the one guy who is the worst at that. It's like he has to have his round mug in every shot while talking incessantly. Ugh....
I took the decision to be a "faceless" channel mostly because of liking Tony and his terrible jokes and film-star hands. I can understand why some machining creators just talk to the camera. It's SO much quicker than having to create interesting and engaging B-roll content, animations and then overdub and synchronise the narration. Keep it up Brandon, this is lovely gentle entertainment. Nice merch too.
The broken broach was so painful. Then the subsequent 5min operation on the mill to finish that operation of the 5 cams was . . . well, hilarious. Well done again sir. I love this stuff.
@@InheritanceMachining to be honest I was interested in why you needed the corners to be so sharp for the function in the first place; I've regularly 'designed' square drive (or hex for that matter) parts intended to not require broaching so they can be milled instead, especially when we're talking such a short run of parts (or if non-standard sizes).
@@Avram42 It was mostly a bad assumption on my part. I assumed I needed a fairly sharp corner for the wrench to fit and didn't consider that the corners would be rounded. I was also excited about (and stuck on) the idea of making the broach. You live and you learn lol
@@InheritanceMachiningI'm not a machinist (but I dream of having a mill and lathe... and WTH, all the rest of that stuff to tinker with, because: why not).... but say you needed to have those corners sharp. Could you perform that milling operation (to hog out most of the material) and use the broach to cut the corners? Would that process lessen the forces on the cutting tool?
@@TheDesertRat31 that is why you are supposed to drill 10% over sized like he did after trying flat to flat size drill and it didn't work, you can drill out more to lessen the forces involved though but that would decrease the engagement surfaces, the problem whit milling away material to make a none round hole would be ensuring the broach engage correctly which is not impossible though finicky I assume, I may be wrong about this though,
The best part of finding a great new TH-cam channel is the excitement of the first video released after you binge the archive. The worst part is the sadness when that video ends and you have to wait for the next one. 😭
I consider this channel to be on par with "This Old Tony", "Sampson Boat Co", "Mike Patey", "Fireball Tool", and "Stuff Made Here". I love that you all take the time to share your work with us!
@@enetheru ive started using "dramas" in place of problems lately. Took me a while to figure out were I picked that up from. Clued in the other day it was from that dam aussie
As if the project, the side projects, the narration and the bloopers weren't enough, this video had FRIGGIN' FINGER GUNS in it!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for this one - along with the latest video from Torbjörn Åhman, this made for a wonderful, calm evening.
It really is a beautiful thing that you are carrying on your grandfather's legacy through this machine shop. Most people would have posted the lot on craigslist. Thank you for taking us along with you on the journey I always light up when I see a new upload! keep up the good work sir!
Perfect timing. Managed to get the kids down for their daily nap. Now for some relaxing time with IM. I love the channel, especially watching the board work. This has fast become one of my top 5 channels
@@InheritanceMachining You’re the best manual machinist I’ve seen on TH-cam. And it’s obvious you’re an expert in engineering and more than capable of creating the parts you design with very high quality and precision. Love the videos man.
Love your videos, your sense of humor and your ability to accept your errors and laugh about them is refreshing. Keep up the good work and I will be looking for more recent videos.
I am continually amazed at the incredible detail in the process you follow. Just doing one function out of sequence can ruin an entire project or prevent moving forward. Your expertise is greatly appreciated by us all.
I watched the video a long time ago. Didn't know what it was though, until I was looking for a way to quickly change the chuck for my small lathe, I didn't know it turned out you had made one. After watching it many times, I finally understood how it works. It was so much fun. Thank you for the video.
Coming home from work, grabbing some food and a beer, then sitting down with a couple of your vids, has become my zen. It's so enjoyable, it's downright therapeutic. I love the attention to detail, and your adherence to tight tolerances; even for parts where it doesn't matter. With a few anomalies, when you can talk yourself out of it. I can see myself so much in that philosophy - I had to quit working construction because of it; I'm too much of a stickler for precision for that line of work. Your calm narration combined with your subtle humour is the icing on the cake, built on great craftmanship, videography and editing work. I hope you keep making videos for years to come, I intend to watch all of it. Thank you so much for making great content.
Probably close to a perfect channel for 85% of the guys and gals watching this theme on the tube. Show your mistakes so you can show your growth, don’t quit until it’s done to a high standard. I’d wager your Grandpa is looking down proud of you.
The politically correct term for "bad decision" is "alternative modeling, simulation and analysis." Love the channel and I am always learning. Many thanks
The end result is fantastic, and the journey and the video making was just as fantastic. I really hope you don't get bored of making these any time soon. This is my favourite channel right now, ToT and Clickspring have slipped a notch.
The Number One thing I use all my tools for.... is to make more tools. That thing looks beautiful, and the detents are a great addition that I wish more chucks and adapters had.
I just got into 3D printing and am diving into the CNC world. Zero experience with any of it, let alone any machining. I have no clue what's going on in these videos but I absolutely love this channel. Cannot stop watching, and now I wish I could go back in time and study machining. These are great and extremely informative, even for someone who struggles to cut a straight line in wood. I thoroughly appreciate the "side project" counter, and that you include the goof ups.
Discovered your channel last week binged every video and jumped in excitement when i saw this upload. Love your content, the pacing, the shots, the vibes. Hope you have fun making the videos!
My Mum had a rotary brooch. It was a family heirloom passed down from her great Grandmother I'm told. She used to wear it to all the fancy dinners 🍽 and dances 💃 back in the day.
Very nice videos on the channel. Same as Blacktail studios. Sped up videos, comments to guide us through, showing the mistakes and issues along the way... I like it.
Man, I work (basically as an apprentice) at a internal machining shop in a mid-sized stainless steel industry and everything this guy does as a hooby just looks a lot more professional than what I see there. I'm just amazed.
the best projects are about repairing something that broke while making something, that could eventually find a usecase in a different project. But mainly its working for the workshop. Amazing
Call me simple, but a well formed detent is one of the most satisfying things to incorporate into a design. They're just awesome, and they're always so functional! Great work, Brandon! I'm looking forward to seeing what you do next!
That was really very deeply deeply satisfying. And a fundamental reminder that the first one always takes 10 hours and once its all dialed in each subsequent one only takes 10 minutes. Beautiful as always Brandon, thank you. Loved the blooper at the end with your partner 🙂
Simply Awesome! We absolutely love your channel and now I have so many new projects to try and machine because of this channel, I’m definitely not complaining 😁
I must be following all the details of this channel too much. I noticed your COOL shirt @ 7:24. 👍👍😎👍👍. Brandon, Thanks for making the start of my weekend extra special with a new IM drop. 🙏
Love your video style and the way you work with calm and precision. I also like how you emphasize that the main project carries many side projects with it. Thanks for sharing you passion
Hi. I like watching your efforts on youtube on my tv. Your projects are usually a little more in depth than mine. I am retired at 73. Also, I would never criticize your efforts or mishaps. While working, I did a lot of "temporary" projects to get me by for a day, week, month, or even years. Some took a lot of redos. All "temporary" fixes. I am going to pass something along that I learned during one of these fixes. When using your boring bar to machine the 1/3 circle scallop in the sides of your cams, might I offer a suggestion that I learned many years ago. Start off with a hole saw. Like a milwaukee, or starrett. Instead of using the store-bought arbor as designed, notice the smaller sizes use an arbor that has a 3/4" round shank beneath the normally used chucking hex. Use a 3/4" R8 collet or whatever collet system you use. Remove the drill bit used to hold the hole saw in the center. Then, the hole saw will be rigid in the mill. Make sure the size of the hole saw is slightly smaller than the diameter of the scallop to be cut. I use a spray mist to keep it cool. Here is the neatest part. Since the saw is mounted rigid, you can literally carve out a semicircle from your cam in one pass. Since it is an interrupted cut, the chips will clear out with a little air (mist) and the cut will proceed until the waste drops out. One thing to add, I also use a couple external snap rings, or a really flat washer between the arbor and cutter where the threads are. This is because the arbor has about 2 threads next to the shoulder that are removed for the threading of the arbor. Using a small spacer makes sure the cutter has 100% threads engaged. When finished with the hole saw, remove it and finish up with the boring bar. You will be surprised to see how quickly you can remove a 1/3, 1/2, up to 7/8 of the circle with little effort and one pass. You can even take a small pass, and then take out more to discharge a "crescent" shaped scrap. The biggest hangup with hole saws is the inability to get rid of the chips once the hole is about 1/8" deep. The interrupted cut makes the chips just fall out with a little air (+mist for me) Even now, I am making a small tool that utilizes the hole saw. I can cut out 15-25 1 1/8" holes in less than an hour through 3/8" hot roll steel. Since I use the inside of the hole that is cut out, I overlap the cuts so (almost) every hole has an "escape path" for the chips. Oh, by the way, I have also use the large arbors for the big hole saws. They use a locking pin system. I use the larger hole saws the same, but let them tighten against a spacer to give 100% thread engagement. Even if not perfectly eccentric, they will still cut a pretty good hole. Follow up as needed with a boring bar. Eliminates drilling a bunch of holes and finishing up with a boring bar. MOST important part! Leave an escape route for the chips. Drill a hole either inside the cut out area, or outside. Keep posting, I enjoy learning, and it keeps my mind sharp.
At 18:38, it looks like some of the studs are slightly proud of the bottom of the adapter, you might benefit from facing them off a little bit so they don't interfere. Great video!
I do enjoy the videos! Thank you for taking the time to make this great content! I've been watching ever since rotary SNP mentioned your channel. I usually watch on my TV so I don't normally get to comment, so I thought to take a min to look you up on my computer and say thank you for taking the time to document and produce these videos.
It's been my pleasure! Thanks for taking a moment to leave a comment. I really appreciate it! Also, I'm not familiar with SMPRotary. I'll have to check him out. Do you recall which video he mentioned me in? I'd like to thank him
This was an awesome project. I'm not sure you captured just how complex and critical every measurement in a camlock design is. You made it look easy. I wish I had the patience to make one myself!
This is a very ambitious and advanced project for even the most advanced hobby machinist. And don't feel bad about the broken broach, the forces are tremendous, I don't think 1 degree is enough to cause the shearing action necessary for a clean cut. Glad the milling worked. Oh, and the steel that gave you the "darned sexy" finish is most likely a high carbon steel in the high 30's or low 40's Rc range.
Thanks! And thanks for the info. A lot of the geometry I was basing on suggestions from a website called PolygonSolutions. They had a pretty details article all about the topic
When your broach broke, I threw my head back and did the Platoon movie scream and said “Noooooooo.” I feel your pain of broken tools in parts. I’ve had many as well from taps to micro-mills. Good thing your in your own shop and have a box of shame. Lol. My father-in-law had a chain you would affix the pooched part to and wear for the day. Lol. Love your content and new merch.
Man, you're blowing the shop doors right off their hinges!!!! You're doing an amazing job! Major kudos for thinking like a machinist! A little down the road, you should make a product that you can sell and make a living at this! Please keep the videos coming! Thanks! :) PS: you can bet your last penny that Gramps is smiling!
@@InheritanceMachining you're modest. Your taking off like a rocket! You learn - quickly - from your mistakes and, by sharing those events, we're learning with you. I am so glad for you that you inherited all of Gramp's machine tools. Those tools could not have had a better recipient. You actually use those tools. I'll bet Gramps is watching and beaming with pride. I would be, if it were me. I sincerely hope you come up with a clever idea and market a machined product you can live off of. It wasn't so long ago that a young man had some machine tools in his apartment and now he has a nice little empire. You probably know of him. He runs Saunders Machine Works. You totally have a machinist's mind - that's obvious - and I hope the inventor side grows too. I'd love to see what you end up making. I've got an idea you're welcome to use (and sell). Machinist's jacks with two lockable stages. One coarse threaded stage that can be locked with a cap head screw and then a second fine thread stage (also lockable) that can dial in tenths. These could be used like gauge blocks. Near the top of the two stages you nearly cut a thin section off with a slitting saw. Then you completely cut a through slit vertically so that you now have an integral ring that can be clamped around the threaded adjustment rod. Machine flats on opposing sides of the ring opening slit. Bore a through hole and thread one side. Put a screw in and you've got an integral clamp. Also, for the times you don't want these jacks to move around, you could thread the bottoms so the jacks could be anchored to T slots. So far as I know, there's nothing quite like this on the market. You're more than welcome to try and make a commercial success of this, if you'd like to try........ I'm too old and too far behind the curve to do anything with this but I'd be pleased if you wanted to try. :)
@@InheritanceMachining PS: with the integral ring style clamps, precision settings are easier to accomplish because the sideways force of the ring clamps won't affect the height of the jack like jam nuts will. Anyway, if you're interested I'll be happy to answer any questions you might have. I see my idea clearly but I know it can be difficult for many to convert my written description into a visualization......
@@artmckay6704 Thank you so much, Art! You are very kind! I'm somewhat familiar with Saunder's Machine Works but did realize his starting point. That's very cool! At the moment I'm not pursuing a single invention to sell but your idea really interests me. I have a couple cheap-o machinists jacks so have been planning to make a better set. Was thinking of somehow making them quick adjust. Maybe with a car jack stand type mechanism to eat up distance fast, then have a locking nut or ring. Not sure how beneficial this would actually be though as I've only had a few occasions of using machinist jacks in the first place. Your concept seems much more practical and far more precise. I do believe I follow your description. The adjustment post would have a course outer thread with a fine inner thread. The top section would be slit mostly through but still attached and make a clamping collar out of that. I'm definitely interested in this type of design
@@InheritanceMachining Glad you're interested. Sounds like you've got it. The base would be coarse threaded AND it would have an integral clamping ring. The coarse threaded rod coming out of the base piece would have internal fine threads to receive ANOTHER threaded shaft (fine threads). The top of the coarse threaded shaft would - in addition to internal fine threads - have an integral clamping ring. So, in use, you might start by clamping the jack to a T-slot. You'd raise the coarse threaded shaft to the approximate height, then you'd use the ring clamp integral to the base to lock in the coarse adjustment. Next, going to the top of the coarse threaded rod, coming out of the base, you'd be looking at ANOTHER ring clamp at the top of that rod. The interior of that rod is fine threaded. You'd screw in a second rod, which is only fine threaded on the outside and has the final pivoting top attached at the top. (Pivoting top is optional). You'd adjust this 2nd rod to within a tenth or so of the final height using gauge blocks or a height gauge. Then you'd lock the collar at the top of the coarse threaded rod. So, bottom to top, you've got a threaded hole in the bottom of the base to allow anchoring to a T-slot. Next, you've got the top of the base which has internal coarse threads AND an integral ring clamp to lock the coarse rod in place. The top of the coarse threaded rod will have both an integral ring clamp AND fine internal threads. Next, you screw in the 2nd shaft, which has fine threads and has the final fixed (or pivoting) head that will support your work piece. One the fine threaded rod is adjusted, you lock it in place and you're ready to support your workpiece with a precision instrument - your tunable machinist's jack! Once again, going from bottom to top - T slot anchor, INTERNAL threaded base body (for t slot anchor at bottom and for coarse threaded rod at top, ring clamp, coarse threaded rod, ring clamp, fine threaded rod, final top piece. Please do give me more feed back so I can be certain I have explained this clearly enough. Base, 2 shafts, coarse and fine, 2 ring clamps, one top. Is this better? Thanks! :)
I discovered your channel a few days ago and I've been binge watching your videos, excellent work, I'm really enjoying watching your projects (including all the side projects!)
I was just planning to skip through and see how you made the cam part but ended up being drawn in and watched from start to finish. Nice work!! I once had to make a hex-hole on a cnc and was having trouble getting the mating part to fit in the corners. Almost went through the trouble of setting up some sort of broach on the mill but then was pleasantly surprised at how well drilling out holes in the corners worked. Prior to the milling of course!
Small tip for setting center height for your tools. Eyeball the position first looking from the side next to a round piece you want to cut. Make a first cut and by doing so leave a true running round part. Measure the diameter. Calculate the radius and set you calliper to this. Put the tip of the tool almost touching at the front of the part. Place caliper with the protruding depth feature on top of the part and adjust the height of the tool until it touches this depth setting. This especially work better on older worn lathes where the center of the tailstock is probably not the center at the location of the part. Also a fast trick; eyeball the height, face the front and adjust on the shown center on the part. Make a another pass at the center and determine if this is what you need. Way quicker especially with a long bed. No traveling up and down with the carriage or tailstock needed. Quick, dirty and sufficient. Thank you! All the best, Job (another tip; buy a low width chuck with integrated cams. Gives you a lot more height in z and more stability when cutting. Try the Bison brand (not affiliated but just good affordable chucks. High end? Go Röhm or a Swiss brand)
its always funny how i happen to be doing something similar in my own shop to a video that pops on youtube. Last night I took an 800w 24k rpm er11 spindle and vfd that ended up not getting used in another project and mounted it on a tool holder on my lathe to grind some eccentric er11 collet holders for my little emco pc turn 50 lathe's tool turret. getting the height of drills aligned is a huge pain when they just go into bores with no built in adjustment, eccentric collet holders fixes that. I used to use a Foredom tool mounted in a boring bar holder, but this little setup works so much better. The only issue now is figuring out a good solution for truing up the wheel. For now i clamped a diamond nib to the spindle but it can move some so not ideal. I've seen some people mount a boring head in the tail stock, but that doesn't necessarily work on my lathe. Maybe I just don't know the terminology but what do people use for their tool post grinding wheels other than Dremel crap? I picked up some $4 1x3/8 1/4in shank "grinding stones" from home depot that seemed to work well enough, but I have no idea what the compound is and the finish is kind of shit tbh. Pro tip for diameter grinding on the lathe, lock your cross slide and set your compound at 3 degrees off axis relative to the spindle axis and when you move the compound in 10 thou, you will move in on diameter 1 thou. I think most compounds use dials that are directly correlated to the movement, not on the diameter. You can do the same for end grinding, but turn it to 84 degrees. obviously this makes it easier to creep up on your dimensions by using a mic, but it also reduces the risk of mechanical slop ruining your dimensions. we aren't preloaded by gravity like on a surface grinder or using ball screws on most lathes. the degrees mentioned are not exact to get the exact 10:1 reduction, if you really want or need that, verify your reduction directly using measuring equipment. this is mostly useful when finish grinding, so i just set it at the rough angle and use a mic to get to my desired dimension, and do a few passes creeping up on the dimension. one last thing is if you plan to use stops on the ways or cross slide, don't forget you are moving along that axis when you move the compound.
I’ve binged all of your videos multiple times now. The “ease” and the patience you have to get everything dead on is inspiring. I’m not sure if anyone has mentioned this yet, but doesn’t a rotary broach need a special holder that lets it wobble a little to make the cuts? I’m working towards getting my first lathe and then a mill and I was just wondering if that’s the reason the broach broke. Or are the holders just a way to make it easier? Anyway, your channel inspires me to always do my best work, no matter what. Keep it up!
Man, the moment you went to try out the 5 minute rough mill, before filing, and the tool just dropped in, I actually chuckled. You have the patience of a Saint: I'd almost be more frustrated at that moment, then when the 2 day end broach broke.
Brandon, Let me offer a word of caution to one of your processes. I don't understand the physics of the effect I will describe, but after seeing the effect demonstrated I no longer relied on a process that you employed and I routinely previously employed. A mag base can and does move its relative position when mag clamped to the face or OD of a lathe chuck and revolved by rotating the lathe spindle. The amount of movement introduces indicator error when indicating from the spindle arc swing to establish spindle centerline. (I hope that sentence is clear.) You can observe this phenomenon by mag clamping a mag base to a substantial steel plate and placing the mounted indicator against the same steel plate. The indicator will register any movement in the indicator setup. Now revolve the plate and indicator set up. I have seen as much as .002" of indicator travel. Try the same trick by mounting the mag base to the lathe chuck while indicating the chuck. It should read zero, but I predict that it won't. My trials conclude that the movement is the magnetic coupling not the mag base arms. For this reason, my subsequent habit is to only indicate relative to the spindle centerline by a rigid setup such as clamping the indicator arm assembly in the lathe chuck. This eliminates the magnetic coupling error potential. Noga makes a cute assembly for this purpose and is commonly marketed as a mill chuck setup tool. As a maintenance technician I routinely set up crashed lathes to align headstock centerline to tailstock centerline and headstock centerline to turret tool holder centerline. I used the mag base mag coupled to the chuck as you demonstrated, while indicating your rotary broach to match centerlines, for nearly a decade before being convinced that the technique is not accurate. I have no way of knowing how much error I and my subordinates unintentionally introduced, but we enforced a company wide policy to not use a mag base for this application. .002" TIR is only .001" of centerline error and may cause tolerable finished part error in your application. Our shop practice was to shoot for dead nuts and seldom intentionally accepted anything greater than .0005" TIR. These are tight tolerances for a high production, around the clock, operation I am convinced that your mag base (and formerly mine) couldn't possibly achieve our shop goals. I don't remember anyone hearing my claim NOT being a skeptic until they demonstrated the phenomenon to themselves. Prior to purchasing my Noga tool, I dedicated an indicator holder that set screwed in place to s stub that I could mount in lathe chuck. Since it was common for our pilots to not want to break a hard jaw setup, I would quickly knock out a custom indicator holder to fit the lathe setup hard jaw limited operating range. This was an issue only on CNC drawbar operated chucks that have very limited jaw travel.
Paul, that's really good information. If anything I would have expected and deviation to come from changes in gravity direction on the arm itself, not from the magnet itself. Rigidly mounting to a chuck jaw like you mention would certainly eliminate this factor. Thanks for the tip!
Once again my wife, Paige, deserves all the credit for setting up the highly requested merch store. She did an amazing job on all the designs! See the description to check them out.
As for the next project, it will be one I've alluded to almost from the beginning so I'm excited for a much needed improvement. So look out for that at 10am EST on Friday Sept 30th.
And as always, thanks for the support!
Next side project: Eccentric V-block chuck 😜
If I support you on Patreon I get the video on the 29th?
@@tigererickson8375 Yup, that's right!
@Gabriel Marshall I'm a lucky man!
@@OB1canblowme I'm already working out how to make my own 😂
for such a a recent channel i feel like you really captured the formula of what a great video is. Beautiful shots and excellent narration.. Congratulations and keep up!
With a sprinkle of jokes and pinch of recurring themes.
Formula's here. The execution however, leaves nothing to be desired except a larger library.
Thank you very much!
Nothing else has so quickly become a favorite channel. It’s amazing how good these are!
The same charm as TOT
This channel is great! I've been missing TOT, and this one scratches that itch. In fact, both creators have similar sensibilities regarding a focus on the work rather than their mug always being in frame, as well as using narration to explain the project. It keeps it all concise and on point. Personally, I would love to see a collaboration, as these two guys could be hilarious together with their subtle humor.
Yeah, I love this channel, but (and no offense), TOT is the GOAT at dad jokes.
God bless "this old tony"! Life must be getting in the way of more of his content. I hope he is doing well.
We all miss TOT. Thanks for stepping up to the plate
Thank you for your comment about other TH-cam creators having their mug in frame CONSTANTLY. It's so annoying when you see this on other channels. For those of us who watch machining channels, we all know the one guy who is the worst at that. It's like he has to have his round mug in every shot while talking incessantly. Ugh....
I took the decision to be a "faceless" channel mostly because of liking Tony and his terrible jokes and film-star hands. I can understand why some machining creators just talk to the camera. It's SO much quicker than having to create interesting and engaging B-roll content, animations and then overdub and synchronise the narration. Keep it up Brandon, this is lovely gentle entertainment. Nice merch too.
The broken broach was so painful. Then the subsequent 5min operation on the mill to finish that operation of the 5 cams was . . . well, hilarious.
Well done again sir.
I love this stuff.
I could have been worse I suppose 😁 Thank you
@@InheritanceMachining to be honest I was interested in why you needed the corners to be so sharp for the function in the first place; I've regularly 'designed' square drive (or hex for that matter) parts intended to not require broaching so they can be milled instead, especially when we're talking such a short run of parts (or if non-standard sizes).
@@Avram42 It was mostly a bad assumption on my part. I assumed I needed a fairly sharp corner for the wrench to fit and didn't consider that the corners would be rounded. I was also excited about (and stuck on) the idea of making the broach. You live and you learn lol
@@InheritanceMachiningI'm not a machinist (but I dream of having a mill and lathe... and WTH, all the rest of that stuff to tinker with, because: why not).... but say you needed to have those corners sharp. Could you perform that milling operation (to hog out most of the material) and use the broach to cut the corners? Would that process lessen the forces on the cutting tool?
@@TheDesertRat31 that is why you are supposed to drill 10% over sized like he did after trying flat to flat size drill and it didn't work, you can drill out more to lessen the forces involved though but that would decrease the engagement surfaces, the problem whit milling away material to make a none round hole would be ensuring the broach engage correctly which is not impossible though finicky I assume, I may be wrong about this though,
The best part of finding a great new TH-cam channel is the excitement of the first video released after you binge the archive. The worst part is the sadness when that video ends and you have to wait for the next one. 😭
Yeah, but that is what makes life interesting. Combine it with a few other good channels and you may have a steady flow of excitement.
Its become one whwre i constantly go back and rewatch the videos
I consider this channel to be on par with "This Old Tony", "Sampson Boat Co", "Mike Patey", "Fireball Tool", and "Stuff Made Here". I love that you all take the time to share your work with us!
Thanks for the suggestions, only knew of this old tony and fireball tool.
you would probably enjoy CEE too then, Cutting Edge Engineering.
Those are some big names (and some of my favorites). Thank you so much!
@@enetheru ive started using "dramas" in place of problems lately. Took me a while to figure out were I picked that up from. Clued in the other day it was from that dam aussie
If you aren't already familiar, check out Blondihacks too!
One thing i really like about you is that you show your mistakes and always try to learn something new along the way.
Branden, there’s a reason why your channel is growing so fast. You make great videos!
Thank you so much!!
As if the project, the side projects, the narration and the bloopers weren't enough, this video had FRIGGIN' FINGER GUNS in it!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for this one - along with the latest video from Torbjörn Åhman, this made for a wonderful, calm evening.
but man... they felt so dorky! 😂 But seriously, thank you so much!
Side-Projects are love. Side-Projects are life.
The complicated things are what make it exciting! Broken tools included. Though they sting for a bit 😉
It really is a beautiful thing that you are carrying on your grandfather's legacy through this machine shop. Most people would have posted the lot on craigslist. Thank you for taking us along with you on the journey I always light up when I see a new upload! keep up the good work sir!
I wasn't about to let that happen. I couldn't image giving up my grandfathers tools!! Glad you are enjoying the channel! Thanks for the support
Perfect timing. Managed to get the kids down for their daily nap. Now for some relaxing time with IM. I love the channel, especially watching the board work. This has fast become one of my top 5 channels
Woo hoo! Thank you!
I'm really proud of you. Learning from experts is great but watching someone grow themselves is cool too
I appreciate that! I try pretty hard not to come off as an expert as I'm definitely not. I just want to share the story of learning the hobby
@@InheritanceMachining You’re the best manual machinist I’ve seen on TH-cam. And it’s obvious you’re an expert in engineering and more than capable of creating the parts you design with very high quality and precision. Love the videos man.
Love your videos, your sense of humor and your ability to accept your errors and laugh about them is refreshing. Keep up the good work and I will be looking for more recent videos.
12:16, I was just thinking the same thing about the shirt! 👍
Your channel has quickly become one of my favorites. Thanks for sharing with us
I love to hear that. Thank you!
I am continually amazed at the incredible detail in the process you follow. Just doing one function out of sequence can ruin an entire project or prevent moving forward. Your expertise is greatly appreciated by us all.
I watched the video a long time ago. Didn't know what it was though, until I was looking for a way to quickly change the chuck for my small lathe, I didn't know it turned out you had made one. After watching it many times, I finally understood how it works. It was so much fun. Thank you for the video.
Oh that's awesome haha Thanks!
I love your format. No annoying music in the background, and your bumper music fits your style and personality perfectly.
Why thank you 😁
Well done 👍👍👍Thank you for sharing. Take care of yourself, be safe, and healthy 🇨🇦
Coming home from work, grabbing some food and a beer, then sitting down with a couple of your vids, has become my zen. It's so enjoyable, it's downright therapeutic.
I love the attention to detail, and your adherence to tight tolerances; even for parts where it doesn't matter. With a few anomalies, when you can talk yourself out of it. I can see myself so much in that philosophy - I had to quit working construction because of it; I'm too much of a stickler for precision for that line of work.
Your calm narration combined with your subtle humour is the icing on the cake, built on great craftmanship, videography and editing work. I hope you keep making videos for years to come, I intend to watch all of it.
Thank you so much for making great content.
I really appreciate your kind words, Drake. I plan to continue this as long as possible. Thank you so much!
Probably close to a perfect channel for 85% of the guys and gals watching this theme on the tube. Show your mistakes so you can show your growth, don’t quit until it’s done to a high standard. I’d wager your Grandpa is looking down proud of you.
Thank you so much!
first youtuber merch i’ve bought and i couldn’t be happier supporting such a great youtuber. brilliant project and video, IM- keep it up
I love to hear that! Thank you so much for the support!
Craig from @Craig's Workshop sent me. He wasn't wrong about your channel! Quality engineering and quality film making. Subscribed! 👍 🇬🇧
Good old Craig. Thanks man! I'll be checking out your content as well!
The politically correct term for "bad decision" is "alternative modeling, simulation and analysis." Love the channel and I am always learning. Many thanks
😂 love it! Thanks!
I am a woodworker and absolutely enjoy your videos. I had subscribed to your channel and binged watched your videos. Good luck in your endeavours.
Thank you!
Friday = Inheritance Machining and Saturday = Blondie Hacks. Always a good start to the weekend!
I watch one of your videos every evening. Thank you for showing and fixing imperfections
The end result is fantastic, and the journey and the video making was just as fantastic. I really hope you don't get bored of making these any time soon. This is my favourite channel right now, ToT and Clickspring have slipped a notch.
😮 Not ToT!! haha I really appreciate that man! Thanks for following along
I second that message, this is so nicely filmed and great voiceover. I'll be "borrowing" one or two of your editing and filming techniques!
1 IM side project = 3 part ThisOldTony mini-series. I love it.
I didn't even know what a rotary broach was before ToT's series!
The Number One thing I use all my tools for.... is to make more tools.
That thing looks beautiful, and the detents are a great addition that I wish more chucks and adapters had.
That's exactly right. Thanks!
Kudos for having the courage to share that Dremel+hose clamp rig. If it’s stupid, but it works…it’s not stupid.
Love your videos. No frills, all the important stuff and just some wit to it. Good job.
I just got into 3D printing and am diving into the CNC world. Zero experience with any of it, let alone any machining. I have no clue what's going on in these videos but I absolutely love this channel. Cannot stop watching, and now I wish I could go back in time and study machining.
These are great and extremely informative, even for someone who struggles to cut a straight line in wood. I thoroughly appreciate the "side project" counter, and that you include the goof ups.
Glad you like the videos! Thank you so much
Discovered your channel last week binged every video and jumped in excitement when i saw this upload.
Love your content, the pacing, the shots, the vibes. Hope you have fun making the videos!
It's a lot of work but definitely still fun for me. Honestly the videos are probably helping me get out of my comfort zone. I appreciate the support!
Ah.
I have been watching this process with my morning coffee, enjoyed every minute 👌
True craftmanship with all its modest complications.
Thank you!
Very well done. Also fast becoming a favourite channel. Looking forward to seeing that heat treatment process!
My Mum had a rotary brooch. It was a family heirloom passed down from her great Grandmother I'm told. She used to wear it to all the fancy dinners 🍽 and dances 💃 back in the day.
😂
I love your side project counter in every video
Very nice videos on the channel.
Same as Blacktail studios.
Sped up videos, comments to guide us through, showing the mistakes and issues along the way...
I like it.
Man, I work (basically as an apprentice) at a internal machining shop in a mid-sized stainless steel industry and everything this guy does as a hooby just looks a lot more professional than what I see there. I'm just amazed.
I’d like to see an AMA with Brandon and hear what he has a background in. Definitely not a novice machinist.
the best projects are about repairing something that broke while making something, that could eventually find a usecase in a different project. But mainly its working for the workshop. Amazing
What a great start to my weekend! Thanks very much for your hard work, we're spoilt by your production quality.
Now the pressure is on to maintain it! 😉Thanks!
Always absolutely relaxing and nice watching your videos. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Keep making. God bless.
Thank you sir!
just binged through all your videos and absolutely love them! Keep up the great work!
You must have had an early morning 😉 Thank you!
Call me simple, but a well formed detent is one of the most satisfying things to incorporate into a design. They're just awesome, and they're always so functional! Great work, Brandon! I'm looking forward to seeing what you do next!
I completely agree! The cams in my lathe nose don't have the detent and now I can't stand it 😆Thanks as always, Jay!
@@InheritanceMachining Haha! Side project?
Lovely !
One of the better channels I've found recently :)
Thank you 😁
Every time i see a rotary broach in action i am amazed with what they do
As always great job buddy. Good to see the wife's having fun in the shop with you. God bless
She stops down every once in a while 😁 Thanks!
That was really very deeply deeply satisfying. And a fundamental reminder that the first one always takes 10 hours and once its all dialed in each subsequent one only takes 10 minutes. Beautiful as always Brandon, thank you. Loved the blooper at the end with your partner 🙂
That's exactly right on the timing 😂 Thanks as always, N!
@@InheritanceMachining ♥
Simply Awesome!
We absolutely love your channel and now I have so many new projects to try and machine because of this channel, I’m definitely not complaining 😁
..... the difference Between making tools... and using tools...🤌 bravo 👏 👏 👏
I must be following all the details of this channel too much. I noticed your COOL shirt @ 7:24. 👍👍😎👍👍. Brandon, Thanks for making the start of my weekend extra special with a new IM drop. 🙏
Hey, I'm not judging 😉 Thanks, Joel!
Your narration, shooting and editing is getting even better. You're absolutely awesome. Thank you for sharing all those wonderful moments with us!
Getting a little better with each video 😁 Thank you so much!
11:56, great product introduction. I was literally thinking about how cool that shirt is.
I really enjoy all your machining adventures, keep em coming I can't get enough. Also your narration is top notch.
Thank you so much!
That "or... not?" moment when using your backup plan. My jam is woodworking but I felt that to my core.
absolutely love the specialty dremel holder. This Old Tony would definitely approve.
Love your video style and the way you work with calm and precision. I also like how you emphasize that the main project carries many side projects with it. Thanks for sharing you passion
Thank you! I'm happy to share my journey
Excellent workmanship. Your attention to detail is first class.
Much appreciated!
Well done! It was a very complex part to complete, I really enjoyed
Thanks man! I've seen your work so that means a lot coming from you
Hi. I like watching your efforts on youtube on my tv. Your projects are usually a little more in depth than mine. I am retired at 73. Also, I would never criticize your efforts or mishaps. While working, I did a lot of "temporary" projects to get me by for a day, week, month, or even years. Some took a lot of redos. All "temporary" fixes. I am going to pass something along that I learned during one of these fixes. When using your boring bar to machine the 1/3 circle scallop in the sides of your cams, might I offer a suggestion that I learned many years ago. Start off with a hole saw. Like a milwaukee, or starrett. Instead of using the store-bought arbor as designed, notice the smaller sizes use an arbor that has a 3/4" round shank beneath the normally used chucking hex. Use a 3/4" R8 collet or whatever collet system you use. Remove the drill bit used to hold the hole saw in the center. Then, the hole saw will be rigid in the mill. Make sure the size of the hole saw is slightly smaller than the diameter of the scallop to be cut. I use a spray mist to keep it cool. Here is the neatest part. Since the saw is mounted rigid, you can literally carve out a semicircle from your cam in one pass. Since it is an interrupted cut, the chips will clear out with a little air (mist) and the cut will proceed until the waste drops out. One thing to add, I also use a couple external snap rings, or a really flat washer between the arbor and cutter where the threads are. This is because the arbor has about 2 threads next to the shoulder that are removed for the threading of the arbor. Using a small spacer makes sure the cutter has 100% threads engaged.
When finished with the hole saw, remove it and finish up with the boring bar. You will be surprised to see how quickly you can remove a 1/3, 1/2, up to 7/8 of the circle with little effort and one pass. You can even take a small pass, and then take out more to discharge a "crescent" shaped scrap.
The biggest hangup with hole saws is the inability to get rid of the chips once the hole is about 1/8" deep. The interrupted cut makes the chips just fall out with a little air (+mist for me) Even now, I am making a small tool that utilizes the hole saw. I can cut out 15-25 1 1/8" holes in less than an hour through 3/8" hot roll steel. Since I use the inside of the hole that is cut out, I overlap the cuts so (almost) every hole has an "escape path" for the chips.
Oh, by the way, I have also use the large arbors for the big hole saws. They use a locking pin system. I use the larger hole saws the same, but let them tighten against a spacer to give 100% thread engagement. Even if not perfectly eccentric, they will still cut a pretty good hole. Follow up as needed with a boring bar. Eliminates drilling a bunch of holes and finishing up with a boring bar. MOST important part! Leave an escape route for the chips. Drill a hole either inside the cut out area, or outside.
Keep posting, I enjoy learning, and it keeps my mind sharp.
As always thanks for making the episode. I see you in the next one!
My pleasure!
That is a work of art mate!
Its always a pleasuere when you encounter a quality channel like like.
@18:14 Soooooo satisfying! Great work!
At 18:38, it looks like some of the studs are slightly proud of the bottom of the adapter, you might benefit from facing them off a little bit so they don't interfere.
Great video!
Good eye! I noticed that the first time i set the adapter on the table as it was rocking. Ended up grinding them off real quick without showing it
Distinguished gentlemen of the TOT and AvE channels, I welcome you.
I love your attitude and approach to work, problems and solutions. 🤗
thank you! 😁
Whats that old saying, "trying new things is how we learn new techniques", lets also not forget, "Failure is the best teacher"
I seem to embody these phrases
I do enjoy the videos! Thank you for taking the time to make this great content! I've been watching ever since rotary SNP mentioned your channel. I usually watch on my TV so I don't normally get to comment, so I thought to take a min to look you up on my computer and say thank you for taking the time to document and produce these videos.
It's been my pleasure! Thanks for taking a moment to leave a comment. I really appreciate it!
Also, I'm not familiar with SMPRotary. I'll have to check him out. Do you recall which video he mentioned me in? I'd like to thank him
11:57 Wow, somebody trained a lot!
My respect. (I should train again too so i can lift my heavy machinery)
This is deffinately a very well put together channel. Just found it a couple days ago.
This was an awesome project. I'm not sure you captured just how complex and critical every measurement in a camlock design is. You made it look easy. I wish I had the patience to make one myself!
Great end result, but it's the journey that counts. So many learning experiences. Well done.
Exactly. Thank you!
Gday, this is really a work of art, I’ve throughly enjoyed watching this build and the end result is absolutely beautiful, cheers
I really appreciate that. Thanks for following along!
This is a very ambitious and advanced project for even the most advanced hobby machinist. And don't feel bad about the broken broach, the forces are tremendous, I don't think 1 degree is enough to cause the shearing action necessary for a clean cut. Glad the milling worked. Oh, and the steel that gave you the "darned sexy" finish is most likely a high carbon steel in the high 30's or low 40's Rc range.
Thanks! And thanks for the info. A lot of the geometry I was basing on suggestions from a website called PolygonSolutions. They had a pretty details article all about the topic
".. added a whole other level..." Mate, you've done that alright. Superb stuff.
Outstanding as usual.
When your broach broke, I threw my head back and did the Platoon movie scream and said “Noooooooo.” I feel your pain of broken tools in parts. I’ve had many as well from taps to micro-mills. Good thing your in your own shop and have a box of shame. Lol. My father-in-law had a chain you would affix the pooched part to and wear for the day. Lol. Love your content and new merch.
That's one way to never forget the mistake haha Thanks!
Impressive! That was a lot of work
I just discovered this channel two days ago and have watched it all!
Woohoo! Welcome!
Man, you're blowing the shop doors right off their hinges!!!!
You're doing an amazing job!
Major kudos for thinking like a machinist!
A little down the road, you should make a product that you can sell and make a living at this!
Please keep the videos coming!
Thanks! :)
PS: you can bet your last penny that Gramps is smiling!
Thank you as always, Art! Getting a little better one day at a time 😁
@@InheritanceMachining you're modest. Your taking off like a rocket!
You learn - quickly - from your mistakes and, by sharing those events, we're learning with you.
I am so glad for you that you inherited all of Gramp's machine tools. Those tools could not have had a better recipient. You actually use those tools. I'll bet Gramps is watching and beaming with pride. I would be, if it were me.
I sincerely hope you come up with a clever idea and market a machined product you can live off of.
It wasn't so long ago that a young man had some machine tools in his apartment and now he has a nice little empire. You probably know of him. He runs Saunders Machine Works.
You totally have a machinist's mind - that's obvious - and I hope the inventor side grows too. I'd love to see what you end up making.
I've got an idea you're welcome to use (and sell).
Machinist's jacks with two lockable stages. One coarse threaded stage that can be locked with a cap head screw and then a second fine thread stage (also lockable) that can dial in tenths. These could be used like gauge blocks.
Near the top of the two stages you nearly cut a thin section off with a slitting saw. Then you completely cut a through slit vertically so that you now have an integral ring that can be clamped around the threaded adjustment rod. Machine flats on opposing sides of the ring opening slit.
Bore a through hole and thread one side. Put a screw in and you've got an integral clamp.
Also, for the times you don't want these jacks to move around, you could thread the bottoms so the jacks could be anchored to T slots.
So far as I know, there's nothing quite like this on the market.
You're more than welcome to try and make a commercial success of this, if you'd like to try........
I'm too old and too far behind the curve to do anything with this but I'd be pleased if you wanted to try. :)
@@InheritanceMachining PS: with the integral ring style clamps, precision settings are easier to accomplish because the sideways force of the ring clamps won't affect the height of the jack like jam nuts will.
Anyway, if you're interested I'll be happy to answer any questions you might have. I see my idea clearly but I know it can be difficult for many to convert my written description into a visualization......
@@artmckay6704 Thank you so much, Art! You are very kind! I'm somewhat familiar with Saunder's Machine Works but did realize his starting point. That's very cool!
At the moment I'm not pursuing a single invention to sell but your idea really interests me. I have a couple cheap-o machinists jacks so have been planning to make a better set. Was thinking of somehow making them quick adjust. Maybe with a car jack stand type mechanism to eat up distance fast, then have a locking nut or ring. Not sure how beneficial this would actually be though as I've only had a few occasions of using machinist jacks in the first place.
Your concept seems much more practical and far more precise. I do believe I follow your description. The adjustment post would have a course outer thread with a fine inner thread. The top section would be slit mostly through but still attached and make a clamping collar out of that. I'm definitely interested in this type of design
@@InheritanceMachining Glad you're interested. Sounds like you've got it.
The base would be coarse threaded AND it would have an integral clamping ring.
The coarse threaded rod coming out of the base piece would have internal fine threads to receive ANOTHER threaded shaft (fine threads).
The top of the coarse threaded shaft would - in addition to internal fine threads - have an integral clamping ring.
So, in use, you might start by clamping the jack to a T-slot.
You'd raise the coarse threaded shaft to the approximate height, then you'd use the ring clamp integral to the base to lock in the coarse adjustment.
Next, going to the top of the coarse threaded rod, coming out of the base, you'd be looking at ANOTHER ring clamp at the top of that rod. The interior of that rod is fine threaded.
You'd screw in a second rod, which is only fine threaded on the outside and has the final pivoting top attached at the top. (Pivoting top is optional).
You'd adjust this 2nd rod to within a tenth or so of the final height using gauge blocks or a height gauge.
Then you'd lock the collar at the top of the coarse threaded rod.
So, bottom to top, you've got a threaded hole in the bottom of the base to allow anchoring to a T-slot.
Next, you've got the top of the base which has internal coarse threads AND an integral ring clamp to lock the coarse rod in place.
The top of the coarse threaded rod will have both an integral ring clamp AND fine internal threads.
Next, you screw in the 2nd shaft, which has fine threads and has the final fixed (or pivoting) head that will support your work piece.
One the fine threaded rod is adjusted, you lock it in place and you're ready to support your workpiece with a precision instrument - your tunable machinist's jack!
Once again, going from bottom to top - T slot anchor, INTERNAL threaded base body (for t slot anchor at bottom and for coarse threaded rod at top, ring clamp, coarse threaded rod, ring clamp, fine threaded rod, final top piece.
Please do give me more feed back so I can be certain I have explained this clearly enough.
Base, 2 shafts, coarse and fine, 2 ring clamps, one top.
Is this better? Thanks! :)
The rotary broach replacement was cool. Very good.
i have small fabrication shop and I love to watch maching process it's very setifing to watch, and your videos are awsome , waiting to see next video
Funny this got recommended since I already watched it but also watched today’s video. Redemption!
Ha! Redemption indeed!
@@InheritanceMachining 😁
Amazing work, great video and awesome narration. 👏
Thanks, Anthony!
That cam detent gave me goosebumps!
I discovered your channel a few days ago and I've been binge watching your videos, excellent work, I'm really enjoying watching your projects (including all the side projects!)
I'm glad you like it! Welcome!
That’s a really handsome tool, and it looks so simple when you’re done…
Thanks! Yeah there was a lot more to it thank I initially expected.
I was just planning to skip through and see how you made the cam part but ended up being drawn in and watched from start to finish. Nice work!!
I once had to make a hex-hole on a cnc and was having trouble getting the mating part to fit in the corners. Almost went through the trouble of setting up some sort of broach on the mill but then was pleasantly surprised at how well drilling out holes in the corners worked. Prior to the milling of course!
Gotcha! 😁 But seriously thanks for sticking with it. You were wiser than I to try milling first!
*edit for typo
Small tip for setting center height for your tools. Eyeball the position first looking from the side next to a round piece you want to cut. Make a first cut and by doing so leave a true running round part. Measure the diameter. Calculate the radius and set you calliper to this. Put the tip of the tool almost touching at the front of the part. Place caliper with the protruding depth feature on top of the part and adjust the height of the tool until it touches this depth setting. This especially work better on older worn lathes where the center of the tailstock is probably not the center at the location of the part. Also a fast trick; eyeball the height, face the front and adjust on the shown center on the part. Make a another pass at the center and determine if this is what you need. Way quicker especially with a long bed. No traveling up and down with the carriage or tailstock needed. Quick, dirty and sufficient. Thank you! All the best, Job (another tip; buy a low width chuck with integrated cams. Gives you a lot more height in z and more stability when cutting. Try the Bison brand (not affiliated but just good affordable chucks. High end? Go Röhm or a Swiss brand)
Those are very useful tips. Especially considering the time involved in shuttling and re-squaring the tool post. Thanks!
This was phenomenal. Keep the videos coming 🤩🤩
Excellent job man, great video, keep'um coming..
its always funny how i happen to be doing something similar in my own shop to a video that pops on youtube. Last night I took an 800w 24k rpm er11 spindle and vfd that ended up not getting used in another project and mounted it on a tool holder on my lathe to grind some eccentric er11 collet holders for my little emco pc turn 50 lathe's tool turret. getting the height of drills aligned is a huge pain when they just go into bores with no built in adjustment, eccentric collet holders fixes that. I used to use a Foredom tool mounted in a boring bar holder, but this little setup works so much better. The only issue now is figuring out a good solution for truing up the wheel. For now i clamped a diamond nib to the spindle but it can move some so not ideal. I've seen some people mount a boring head in the tail stock, but that doesn't necessarily work on my lathe. Maybe I just don't know the terminology but what do people use for their tool post grinding wheels other than Dremel crap? I picked up some $4 1x3/8 1/4in shank "grinding stones" from home depot that seemed to work well enough, but I have no idea what the compound is and the finish is kind of shit tbh.
Pro tip for diameter grinding on the lathe, lock your cross slide and set your compound at 3 degrees off axis relative to the spindle axis and when you move the compound in 10 thou, you will move in on diameter 1 thou. I think most compounds use dials that are directly correlated to the movement, not on the diameter. You can do the same for end grinding, but turn it to 84 degrees. obviously this makes it easier to creep up on your dimensions by using a mic, but it also reduces the risk of mechanical slop ruining your dimensions. we aren't preloaded by gravity like on a surface grinder or using ball screws on most lathes. the degrees mentioned are not exact to get the exact 10:1 reduction, if you really want or need that, verify your reduction directly using measuring equipment. this is mostly useful when finish grinding, so i just set it at the rough angle and use a mic to get to my desired dimension, and do a few passes creeping up on the dimension. one last thing is if you plan to use stops on the ways or cross slide, don't forget you are moving along that axis when you move the compound.
Awesome work !!!! Many ways to have perfect way to gol. Can't wait next project. 👌
Thanks!
I’ve binged all of your videos multiple times now. The “ease” and the patience you have to get everything dead on is inspiring. I’m not sure if anyone has mentioned this yet, but doesn’t a rotary broach need a special holder that lets it wobble a little to make the cuts? I’m working towards getting my first lathe and then a mill and I was just wondering if that’s the reason the broach broke. Or are the holders just a way to make it easier? Anyway, your channel inspires me to always do my best work, no matter what. Keep it up!
Man, the moment you went to try out the 5 minute rough mill, before filing, and the tool just dropped in, I actually chuckled. You have the patience of a Saint: I'd almost be more frustrated at that moment, then when the 2 day end broach broke.
It was honestly a huge relief. I wasn't looking forward to all the filing 😂
Brandon,
Let me offer a word of caution to one of your processes.
I don't understand the physics of the effect I will describe, but after seeing the effect demonstrated I no longer relied on a process that you employed and I routinely previously employed. A mag base can and does move its relative position when mag clamped to the face or OD of a lathe chuck and revolved by rotating the lathe spindle. The amount of movement introduces indicator error when indicating from the spindle arc swing to establish spindle centerline. (I hope that sentence is clear.) You can observe this phenomenon by mag clamping a mag base to a substantial steel plate and placing the mounted indicator against the same steel plate. The indicator will register any movement in the indicator setup. Now revolve the plate and indicator set up. I have seen as much as .002" of indicator travel. Try the same trick by mounting the mag base to the lathe chuck while indicating the chuck. It should read zero, but I predict that it won't. My trials conclude that the movement is the magnetic coupling not the mag base arms. For this reason, my subsequent habit is to only indicate relative to the spindle centerline by a rigid setup such as clamping the indicator arm assembly in the lathe chuck. This eliminates the magnetic coupling error potential. Noga makes a cute assembly for this purpose and is commonly marketed as a mill chuck setup tool.
As a maintenance technician I routinely set up crashed lathes to align headstock centerline to tailstock centerline and headstock centerline to turret tool holder centerline. I used the mag base mag coupled to the chuck as you demonstrated, while indicating your rotary broach to match centerlines, for nearly a decade before being convinced that the technique is not accurate. I have no way of knowing how much error I and my subordinates unintentionally introduced, but we enforced a company wide policy to not use a mag base for this application.
.002" TIR is only .001" of centerline error and may cause tolerable finished part error in your application. Our shop practice was to shoot for dead nuts and seldom intentionally accepted anything greater than .0005" TIR. These are tight tolerances for a high production, around the clock, operation
I am convinced that your mag base (and formerly mine) couldn't possibly achieve our shop goals.
I don't remember anyone hearing my claim NOT being a skeptic until they demonstrated the phenomenon to themselves.
Prior to purchasing my Noga tool, I dedicated an indicator holder that set screwed in place to s stub that I could mount in lathe chuck. Since it was common for our pilots to not want to break a hard jaw setup, I would quickly knock out a custom indicator holder to fit the lathe setup hard jaw limited operating range. This was an issue only on CNC drawbar operated chucks that have very limited jaw travel.
Paul, that's really good information. If anything I would have expected and deviation to come from changes in gravity direction on the arm itself, not from the magnet itself. Rigidly mounting to a chuck jaw like you mention would certainly eliminate this factor. Thanks for the tip!
I love Your videos!! Incredible quality and narration. I love seeing all the upgrades you made to Your machines in previous videos!
thank you!