I learn so much from your commentary. No doubt there are thousands of simple turning videos on YT, but only a handful of creators providing this level of production quality and information. The pros and cons of material choice, feeds and speeds, the 6” rule trick, knurling tips, etc… Thank you for sharing your expertise. You’re a great mentor.
It’s really nice to see a proper, well formed knurl. Good job! Here’s a tip for you: for cleaning out the knurl, use a piece of gorilla brand duct tape and let the sticky side of the tape “walk” the circumference of the part. The sticky will grab all the little embedded swarf between the knurls. I’m sure other tape will work well, but the extra thickness and stickiness of gorilla brand makes it particularly well suited for this.
Really enjoying your lathe vids and learning a lot. I've been doing some lathe work on my channel recently (I do mostly 3d printing). I originally came just to see what camera angles and such you were using for lathe work, but sub'd right away. You deserve WAY more subs on this channel. Keep up the great work!
I'm just curious on you're first pin, center concerns, could the long shaft behind the chuck have a slight warp in it causing the end to wobble a couple thousands? I'm NO machinist!!!! Just wondering that's all!! Enjoying your videos so much!! NO MUSIC, just the machine working and you explaining what you're doing!!! ( It's perfect )
Yeah it’s been loose for a while lol. I just realized it a few weeks back. The screw is bottoming before touching insert fully. I tapped the threads a little deeper in the tool holder and now the screw seats deeper. I have had that insert in there probably for a year and never noticed until a few weeks back.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair pfff, im glad it didnt blow up or anything due to wear xD I really wish i had a decent mini lathe or CNC mill, but before that i learn much from you and other channels
Hi. For the taper at the first pin , it could be a lot of reasons. 1 - pushing to hard on the tailstock. 2- locking the tailstock to hard or not hard enough. 3- Negative inserts pus harder , so ai never use them for finishing . For exemple my lathe whit CNMG has taper like 0.1mm ( 4thou.) and whit VCMT . 0.005mm ( 2 thents) Not criticizing, just saying my experience, especially if you have different results
Hey man, backseat machinist here with a question. Why do you stick your part out to length before cutting your center? In my mind I'd think it easier and faster to cut the center while your material is closer to the chuck, and your center would have less runout as a result, then pull it out to length.
Yeah you can do both. The benefit of doing it like I did is that if there is a bend in the shaft and you put a center with it stuck out when you turn it down you’ll be fine. If you do it as you say and there is a bend in the shaft when pull it out of the chuck the center will wobble around.
If the shaft is not perfect straight and you drill the center near the chuck, when you pull out the piece and stick the live center in it, that will apply some bending forces to the shaft. After carefully machining, when you release it from the center it will bend back.
Please provide some additional info on your McMaster order. Looking in the catalog there are some confusing (for me) choices regarding the temper: hard, full hard, hardened. I like your video narration style. Thanks
I learn so much from your commentary. No doubt there are thousands of simple turning videos on YT, but only a handful of creators providing this level of production quality and information. The pros and cons of material choice, feeds and speeds, the 6” rule trick, knurling tips, etc… Thank you for sharing your expertise. You’re a great mentor.
Thank you that’s means a lot
It’s really nice to see a proper, well formed knurl. Good job! Here’s a tip for you: for cleaning out the knurl, use a piece of gorilla brand duct tape and let the sticky side of the tape “walk” the circumference of the part. The sticky will grab all the little embedded swarf between the knurls. I’m sure other tape will work well, but the extra thickness and stickiness of gorilla brand makes it particularly well suited for this.
Hmm good to know
Really enjoying your lathe vids and learning a lot. I've been doing some lathe work on my channel recently (I do mostly 3d printing). I originally came just to see what camera angles and such you were using for lathe work, but sub'd right away. You deserve WAY more subs on this channel. Keep up the great work!
Really appreciate that. I’m hoping to get a 3-D printer next year. Ill have to check out your channel when I do.
Happy Saturday my friend 😎☀️🌴
To you too my friend
I'm just curious on you're first pin, center concerns, could the long shaft behind the chuck have a slight warp in it causing the end to wobble a couple thousands? I'm NO machinist!!!! Just wondering that's all!! Enjoying your videos so much!! NO MUSIC, just the machine working and you explaining what you're doing!!! ( It's perfect )
Yeah it did have a warp in it lessened as I got to the end. Thanks
Excellent job, great video, keep'um coming..
Thanks, will do!
Awesome thanks
No problem!
22:23 Oh god, that insert is LOOSE!
That aside, great work! c:
Yeah it’s been loose for a while lol. I just realized it a few weeks back. The screw is bottoming before touching insert fully. I tapped the threads a little deeper in the tool holder and now the screw seats deeper. I have had that insert in there probably for a year and never noticed until a few weeks back.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair pfff, im glad it didnt blow up or anything due to wear xD
I really wish i had a decent mini lathe or CNC mill, but before that i learn much from you and other channels
Hi. For the taper at the first pin , it could be a lot of reasons.
1 - pushing to hard on the tailstock.
2- locking the tailstock to hard or not hard enough.
3- Negative inserts pus harder , so ai never use them for finishing .
For exemple my lathe whit CNMG has taper like 0.1mm ( 4thou.) and whit VCMT . 0.005mm ( 2 thents)
Not criticizing, just saying my experience, especially if you have different results
Thanks for advice
Customer will be like:" WOW!"
Thanks
Hey man, backseat machinist here with a question. Why do you stick your part out to length before cutting your center? In my mind I'd think it easier and faster to cut the center while your material is closer to the chuck, and your center would have less runout as a result, then pull it out to length.
Yeah you can do both. The benefit of doing it like I did is that if there is a bend in the shaft and you put a center with it stuck out when you turn it down you’ll be fine. If you do it as you say and there is a bend in the shaft when pull it out of the chuck the center will wobble around.
Learn something new every day. Thank you sir!
If the shaft is not perfect straight and you drill the center near the chuck, when you pull out the piece and stick the live center in it, that will apply some bending forces to the shaft. After carefully machining, when you release it from the center it will bend back.
Please provide some additional info on your McMaster order. Looking in the catalog there are some confusing (for me) choices regarding the temper: hard, full hard, hardened. I like your video narration style. Thanks
130,000psi multipurpose rod 4140 Rockwell 32c
Curious how "hard" that pre hardened steel was? Did you use a special insert for that? I know my carbide inserts don't touch hardened rod on my lathe.
32rockwell no special inserts. Just my usual steel inserts for general purpose. They were name brand inserts though.
👍😎👍
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair 32 is not that hard - your hss centre drill cuts it so that bears out its not hard