Roasting a 400g batch of Ethiopian Yirgacheffe G1 on a Cormorant CR600 (600g gas roaster), using Artisan connected via a Mastech MS6514 and digital K type thermocouples.
When you realize you've forgot to click the event button, click it anyways. And then on the graph you can open the context menu and put the event in the right place timewise. This will make Artisan HUD working with stage times, temps and stages %s still useful during the roast. Thanks for sharing these videos!
Hi Dylan, don’t roast on the Cormorant any more - have moved onto a 1.5kg Golden GR1+ The graph I posted had smoothing set too high. I have since changed my bean probes to RTD type as they are more accurate and less noisy. For a high grown African I would still chose a quick ish roast - but with a longer time to FC. I drop most of my coffee between 1.50mins to 2.20 mins past FC and I’d definitely be trying to avoid that flick at the end.
@@beanobsessedroasters9073 Thanks for swift reply. I saw that after, that you'd changed to a different roaster. Found your videos really helpful. Such a bloat of theory out there but these have been really practical and helpful. Interesting to close off the diffuser at FC - I will try this next roast. I'm trying to avoid soft crashes after FC.
Hi Philip, I am waiting for my CR600 to be delivered in September. I was wondering whether in hindsight you recommend the Mastech 6514 over a Phidget type of device. BR Chris
Christopher Schmitz - no absolutely not - vint hub and TMP1101 module - is the way to go imo. Gives you the option to run extra TC’s or change to RTD’s at a later stage. Also the Vint hub allows for all sorts of other devices to be added at a later stage.
I'm confused by the 1.5mbr, is that 15mbar? Johan shipped me a unit that expresses gas in 0 - 40mbar, which I'm assuming is just a decimal point off yours.
I’m intrigued by the cormorants mechanism for emptying beans, the electric motor driving the drum shaft is surely connected to the base structure in some way so how is it able to be raised to aid the drop of beans? Is the motor only attached via the outer case?
@@beanobsessedroasters9073 I sincerely hope it's a higher calibre than just a car wiper motor. That being said, Guido: It doesn't have to "lift" to assist dropping the beans, if you add a slight forward rotation and some diagonal fins in the drum, you dan have the beans move naturaly towards the tray without lifting one side of the drum ;)
Kjeld Schouten-lebbing - do you drive a car? Have you ever owned one? I have - probably 10 or more - well in all the years of car ownership - how many wiper motors do you think failed - none..
The beans will empty into the cooling tray without lifting the drum, however they will empty even quicker with a little lift at the back. This hinged arrangement also makes it really easy to clean around the burner.
@@beanobsessedroasters9073 Driving or owning a car has no relevance whether someone knowns or doesn't know electromotors. A wiper motor isn't speced for this (and isn't in this either). Not every electromotors is a wiper motor.
You said you have a combination ET/BT probe in the front and a MET probe in the rear? I always thought machines had separate probes for ET and BT. Did I misunderstand you? What is the little circle time in the front that is counting down in red letters? How about the green instrument in the back, is that necessary for the probes and do they hook into that and that hooks up to the laptop? USB?
Hi William - BT probes can sit right in the bottom of the bean mass nearer the sight glass or higher in the drum (where I have it) There are advantages and disadvantages to both. The main disadvantage with the higher location is that with lower charge weights there is a danger the probe doesn't always come into contact with the beans. I may add a lower probe at some point. The red circle is a voltage reading for the fan speed. The green box is a Mastech MS6514 thermocouple meter connected via usb to the laptop running Artisan - one could also use Phidgets..
@@autoexec5367 The main disadvantage - is the proximity to the blades/paddles. This can cause the drum to crush beans between the paddle and the thermocouple. Another option which I use now is to bend a 2mm probe down into the bean mass.
@@autoexec5367 I'm using a Mill City 75mm bent down into the bean mass. Are you a member of the Facebook group - I wrote a small piece about it on there...
Burner off at the beginning is called a “bean soak” - can be done with burner completely off or lower power - there’s plenty of info on this if you search for it. There are no rights an wrongs here - just finding and developing ones own methods. It’s a journey and there aren’t really any short cuts I’m afraid.
![[กูเพิ่งซื้อมึงปิดหนี] 20 นาที ผมรีวิวเกมที่แย่ที่สุดในโลก CONCORD](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XhC-3q3Ii7I/mqdefault.jpg)
When you realize you've forgot to click the event button, click it anyways. And then on the graph you can open the context menu and put the event in the right place timewise. This will make Artisan HUD working with stage times, temps and stages %s still useful during the roast.
Thanks for sharing these videos!
Alexandr Hubitski - thanks - I'm new to Artisan - was using Roastmaster on iOS before - great tip!!
Thanks for sharing Phil!
Great video, learned a lot from it.
Thanks for sharing. 4 years on - has your technique changed for this type of bean? Or has it been one you have stuck with? Thank you
Hi Dylan, don’t roast on the Cormorant any more - have moved onto a 1.5kg Golden GR1+ The graph I posted had smoothing set too high. I have since changed my bean probes to RTD type as they are more accurate and less noisy. For a high grown African I would still chose a quick ish roast - but with a longer time to FC. I drop most of my coffee between 1.50mins to 2.20 mins past FC and I’d definitely be trying to avoid that flick at the end.
@@beanobsessedroasters9073 Thanks for swift reply. I saw that after, that you'd changed to a different roaster. Found your videos really helpful. Such a bloat of theory out there but these have been really practical and helpful. Interesting to close off the diffuser at FC - I will try this next roast. I'm trying to avoid soft crashes after FC.
Hi Philip, I am waiting for my CR600 to be delivered in September. I was wondering whether in hindsight you recommend the Mastech 6514 over a Phidget type of device. BR Chris
Christopher Schmitz - no absolutely not - vint hub and TMP1101 module - is the way to go imo. Gives you the option to run extra TC’s or change to RTD’s at a later stage. Also the Vint hub allows for all sorts of other devices to be added at a later stage.
I'm confused by the 1.5mbr, is that 15mbar? Johan shipped me a unit that expresses gas in 0 - 40mbar, which I'm assuming is just a decimal point off yours.
goodolarchie - that's my error sorry, not sure why I put a decimal in their, is of course 15mbar - not 1.5. Have you joined the Facebook page?
I’m intrigued by the cormorants mechanism for emptying beans, the electric motor driving the drum shaft is surely connected to the base structure in some way so how is it able to be raised to aid the drop of beans? Is the motor only attached via the outer case?
Guido G - yes the motor is attached to the outer case. It’s essentially a car wiper motor - running 12v dc. Runs very smoothly.
@@beanobsessedroasters9073 I sincerely hope it's a higher calibre than just a car wiper motor.
That being said, Guido:
It doesn't have to "lift" to assist dropping the beans, if you add a slight forward rotation and some diagonal fins in the drum, you dan have the beans move naturaly towards the tray without lifting one side of the drum ;)
Kjeld Schouten-lebbing - do you drive a car? Have you ever owned one? I have - probably 10 or more - well in all the years of car ownership - how many wiper motors do you think failed - none..
The beans will empty into the cooling tray without lifting the drum, however they will empty even quicker with a little lift at the back. This hinged arrangement also makes it really easy to clean around the burner.
@@beanobsessedroasters9073 Driving or owning a car has no relevance whether someone knowns or doesn't know electromotors.
A wiper motor isn't speced for this (and isn't in this either). Not every electromotors is a wiper motor.
You said you have a combination ET/BT probe in the front and a MET probe in the rear? I always thought machines had separate probes for ET and BT. Did I misunderstand you? What is the little circle time in the front that is counting down in red letters? How about the green instrument in the back, is that necessary for the probes and do they hook into that and that hooks up to the laptop? USB?
Hi William - BT probes can sit right in the bottom of the bean mass nearer the sight glass or higher in the drum (where I have it) There are advantages and disadvantages to both. The main disadvantage with the higher location is that with lower charge weights there is a danger the probe doesn't always come into contact with the beans. I may add a lower probe at some point. The red circle is a voltage reading for the fan speed. The green box is a Mastech MS6514 thermocouple meter connected via usb to the laptop running Artisan - one could also use Phidgets..
@@beanobsessedroasters9073 What is the disadvantage of the bottom placement bear the sight glass?
@@autoexec5367 The main disadvantage - is the proximity to the blades/paddles. This can cause the drum to crush beans between the paddle and the thermocouple. Another option which I use now is to bend a 2mm probe down into the bean mass.
@@beanobsessedroasters9073 Thanks for the reply! Any suggestion for the length of the probe? So with the same stock position but bent downwards?
@@autoexec5367 I'm using a Mill City 75mm bent down into the bean mass. Are you a member of the Facebook group - I wrote a small piece about it on there...
Hi is turning burner off aim is to reach low turning point?
Burner off at the beginning is called a “bean soak” - can be done with burner completely off or lower power - there’s plenty of info on this if you search for it. There are no rights an wrongs here - just finding and developing ones own methods. It’s a journey and there aren’t really any short cuts I’m afraid.
Have you had any problem with the mastech 6514?
No - but now use Phidgets Vint Hub and Tmp 110... gives one more options