Hi David I always enjoy the updates and the memorial garden has to be my favourite area......................So far ..........................Cheers Kev
Excellent video. It gives such an insight into an area one seldom thinks about, and the dilemmas they can bring! I look forward to seeing the bridge, signal and new backing behind the bridge in full use.
Hello David Yet another fascinating update from Deresley. I really enjoyed what you did with the semaphore signal and will be watching with great interest for points and tips on how you intend to connect it to the servo. Great work and stay safe. Keep sharing and model on. Regards Lee@NEAR
Many thanks Lee. Will keep this connection 'simple' to start (operating with the servo tester) but have plans to change this to being controlled by Arduino later in the new year. (Once I have worked out how to do it) 😊👍👍👍
Thanks David, Very entertaining and inspiring. I love the way the railway is developing. You must be very pleased. Those 20 minutes went so quickly. When you're having fun ............ Thanks again. Bob
Hi David, another enjoyable watch with my morning cuppa. It;s a shame about the UV problem, the Scalescenes garage kit looked great and something I was planning for my N gauge layout at some point. I’m hoping I don’t have the same problem as my railway cabin doesn’t get to much direct sunlight. I like the idea of the hotel though and look forward to you making it. The Metcalfe bridge looks great too and after watching you and Tony North Eastern use their brick card I may very well look into this myself. Cheers David, John
Hi John, thanks for the comments, much appreciated. I love the Scalescenes stuff. Check out the comment by Paddy Colemen (somewhere below) - he uses Canon's own original inks and has had no issues with UV fading (I use third-party inks myself) - perhaps that's the answer. For me, I think I will stick to the brick card sheets from Metcalfe and others. Several positive comments about the hotel idea - so it will go ahead. 👍👍👍
Interesting I used to go to Hitchin trainspotting in the 60’s We used to sit up on the chalk cliff we could just see the entrance to the shed. Thank you for taking time to share the videos I find very interesting. Dave
Hello Dave. Yes know the sight well. I am probably a bit older than you, all of my pre-teen years were in the 1950s. My nan and great grandmother lived in Common Rise. You may know it - it was a short walk from there to the chalk cliffs. Often we would picnic with them on those cliffs. Our thrill was to watch the steam locos on the turntable. That turntable is still in existence I believe - in Norfolk somewhere. Great memories - thanks ❤👍👍👍
Good morning. Yes card kits do fade in the sunshine 😩 I use matt varnish and that seems to slow down the fading 👍🏻 What a lovely job you’ve done on that signal 🤣 I’ve got some and not even got them out of the box yet lol 😆 May have a go now I’ve seen yours 😀 Like the transfer idea too 👍🏻 You should do some more signal builds a little slower 😂 And make sure you show how you do the servo 🤔 Cheers Stevie 😎
Hello Stevie. Thanks for your comments. Will be doing some testing on printing/fading - had a big response to this. Glad you liked the signal. This was to be my one and only semaphore signal on the layout, but, I like it too so there may well be more to follow (at a slower speed 😊). I will certainly be showing the connection - the servo arrived yesterday. 👍👍👍
Very interesting David to hear about the fading issues and how much you rate the MetCalfe buildings brickwork. The new bridge looks great and looking forward to what you put up behind the tunnel mouth. Always love watching your layout, you put so much effort into it and I want to live there. Regards Chris
Thanks Simon - yes it seems a typical small town hotel so it's not going to look out of place in Deresley. I will cover the build of this - looking forward to it too. Appreciate the comment 👍👍👍
Rocking the long hair Dave! Looking super trendy fella kudos for us older boys. I loved the first bridge & the buildings on or near it, which you named after family members (pub) without going back & checking & that’s about it as I can only echo the complaints made about this video great work well done
Hi David. i like the idea of the hotel. that would make a great project. I would'nt mind having a go at something like that myself. but not just yet. must finish my station first. you could also have a horse and dray pulling up out side the hotel dropping of some beer. i remember you pulling up the first bridge. that was some time ago. you can not go wrong with Metcalfe brick sheets. you said yourself they never fade. the small shop you could paint that white and just before the paint dries add some very fine sand. let it dry and give another coat of paint. i do like your work my friend.....all the best Tony
Hi Tony, many thanks for the tips. I will probably re-paint some of the buildings. On a positive note it might spur me on to change them rather than rebuild them. Glad you like the idea of the Hotel - No brickwork on the frontage of this😊 I could have a horse and dray it certainly would not be out of place in the 1960's (will add it to my Christmas list😊) 👍👍👍
Good to see you back with another update, I had to pause the scene of the road and the memorial garden, just to have a closer look, it does look realistic, great modelling work, all the best, Dave
Hi David, Regarding the garage. I built the same model using plastic card then painted and weathered. Another very inspiring video, thanks for sharing, looking forward to the next.
Hi John, thanks for the comment. Yes, that seems a good way to go also. I am getting so much good advice on this. I will have to make changes - perhaps I will do some tests over the next 6 months. 👍👍👍
The hotel and the car park are a great idea. Excellent effort on the bridge and the signal. Always a pleasure to catch up with you. Looking forward to next one. Thanks David
Thanks for the update David - very enjoyable. I am always impressed by how much thought and planning you perform before making a decision about Deresley.
Hello David, there are always changes and improvements to be made on a layout but it's rather sad when fading ink or paint is the reason. I do hope you don't suffer more of that with your new builds. My train spotting days ( 1958-65)were spent just north of Hitchin and I remember the semaphores well. Your town scene is looking fantastic. Take care and we'll see you on your next update. Regards, David.
Hi David, thanks, appreciate the comments. I am not too worried about the fading. Luckily I don't have too many buildings on the layout. I will probably paint some and I shall enjoy re-building the others. Interesting your train spotting days were in the same era - I was 18 years old in 1965 (sigh!). You take care too, thanks again 👍👍👍
Yes, a running video is over due - I will wait until the bridge end is finished as it forms a major part of and videos I make. Appreciate your comment 👍👍👍
I must admit i don't use any printed paper brick if fact no paper/card on my layout its all plastic/metal/modroc etc and no water colours any painting is acrylic. i've know a lot of modellers who print there own stuff and eventually had the same problems. love the idea of the view from under the new bridge to be, i have lighting there as well so i'm taking on board your idea as i have a sharp bend also. hotel idea will be fantastic.
Hi Desmond, thanks for the comments - I thought it was just me but it seems there are many others who have experienced the same problem. The more comments I get about this subject the more I feel it would be good to do some comparative testing over, say, the next 6 months or so. I must admit, I like modelling in card, particularly in this scale. Certainly will be pressing on with the diorama through the bridge. More materials have arrived for this to begin this job. Glad you like the hotel idea, it seems popular too. 👍👍👍
'Layout Completed' ??? - I don't know of anyone who has completed their railway 😁😁 I will be working on another running video when the bridge end is completed. Appreciate your comments James 👍👍👍
Good afternoon David. I found the video very enjoyable. Certainly there's a breadth to your modelling - from infinitesimal locomotive detailing to broad stroke scenic work - which is admirable. Do you think you might have time to do any more videos on your locomotive and stock modification, or operating the layout?
Many thanks for your lovely comment. It's a balancing act, as you can imagine. (or more of a chicken-and egg). Which to do first. I want to do more stock detailing and I certainly will be doing a running video. But, because I like my running videos to look as realistic as I can make them - I do need to finish the bridge, and the scenery. I plan to put the Dinky Toy restorations on hold now and concentrate on the railway. First get the new bridge and scenery in place, and then a running video. 👍👍👍
@@davidhyde4329 Thank you for taking the time to reply, I imagine it's quite tough to get through all the comments on every video. The drawbacks to TH-cam fame? Take care,
Brilliant update David, a timely warning for me about UV as I am about to to build a stone wall around the M P D, I shall have to spray seal it, it is my first build in using papers l tend to scratch build with Wills plastic. Your layout is looking really good, keep up the good modeling. Cheers Grahame
Thanks Grahame, lovely comment. Had a lot of response on this problem - plan to do some testing - will share on video. I like card modelling - particularly in this scale. 👍👍👍
Hi David, and thank you for a very interesting update. The Golden lion hotel build is a great idea and it will make me feel right at home when I visit having spent so many lunchtimes in there when I worked in the Old Mill in St. Ives! The diorama behind the bridge is a great idea. It had never occurred to me that it was a problem as the lights in the fiddle yard have usually been off when I have visited. Nice Signal too. If you need any help or advice on driving the servo you know where I am. You really do seem to have a lot of trouble with fading printer ink. I have built lots of the download and print Scalescenes kits and never had any significant fading. I wonder if it is related to the particular inks you have used. It looks like we will struggle to meet up any time before the new year now that we are in tier 2 probably until after Christmas. ................................John
Hi John, thanks. My first job was to find a lion (echoes of the war memorial soldier). Preiser do a nicely posed male lion so all seems good to go. I like the Golden Lion too - once saw Eric Morecambe in there - I think he had a financial interest. Am thinking of focussing on this fading problem with test prints/solutions over the next 6 months. Many comments about this have come in. Might do videos too. We will certainly speak again on the signalling - my youngest daughter, Elizabeth, is buying me an Arduino Uno for Christmas - no stopping me now 😁😁👍👍
Hi David, Is there a lion available was my first thought too!!!. I will certainly be interested to know the outcome of your fading tests. I have had a look at my Scalescenes kits that I built nearly 10 years ago and I don't see any fading. Perhaps my blackout blind does a better job than I expected. That said it wasn't always there. The Uno is a very good place to start with Arduino as it is what most tutorials use. I will be waiting for the 'phone to ring. .................John
Hi Bruce, wow - Western Australia - glad you liked the video very nice of you to comment. This will be the first time I have built a working signal - hopefully have it working, for you to see, in my next railway update. So thanks from the other side of the world - I can tell you the time here (now) is 08:10 and it is SNOWING !!! (I kid you not) 👍👍👍
@@davidhyde4329 well I just purchased a couple of ratio signal kits from the UK the will be here some time in January, so I am looking forward to your next vid on this build
¡Hola buenas tardes David! As ever, a full and. Interesting update. I’ve been fortunate with fading issues as the garage has a shuttered window. However, I did fall foul when applying isopropyl alcohol whilst laying scenics. My hillside tunnel portal has an area of colour fade but, I hope to hide this with some climbing ivy. I too have some homemade servo testers which, I intend using on the new branch line station board, with some semaphore signals. I’m currently experimenting with scratch build control wires/rodding. I look forward to the next Deresley update and, in the meantime, stay safe and well. Un saludo. Gary
Hola buenos dias Gary. Interesting to hear you are thinking of using servo testers as well. I will need some control 'rodding' myself. There are components available for R/C boat and plane control so I am going to check these out first. I think a lot of us are having problems with inkjet printed sheets - See Paddy Coleman's comment (below) - he uses genuine Canon inks and has had no UV issues. Thanks, appreciate the comments 👍👍👍
I had read that there are several UV protection sprays available on the market. However, not been used by me. I now use a coating of matt spray varnish, on all my scratch build items to prevent damp and accidental water splashes affecting them. I use a drill to twist fine garden wire straight (see Gormo at Great Chesterford Junction) and, I use the MERG site for electronic projects. Once you’re a member, you can use their project database. Assembly is no more fiddly than the signal you just completed. Un saludo. Gary
@@garydoc Thanks for the additional follow up. I will do some tests - I have the UV spray I showed in my last video and I have used Auto Lacquer (which I use to seal my printed decals). I also have some matt acrylic varnish. I have heard of the MERG site and will certainly check this out on your recommendation - thanks.
I first started watching your channel when it had the first bridge in it and wasn't there a mirror at the end of the bridge? Living in Thailand, I have worries about fading as the intended room faces West. I do have tinted windows and the curtains will be closed all the time. The back scene should also help. Good luck with the Number 3 and I shall watch with interest. I was making colour light signals whilst I was watching this video. There are 3D printed ones and are of the early BR type with head on a second pole. I will finish these 12 and then think again what I will do about the rest. Martin. (Thailand)
Hi Martin, wow, that's some time ago - I had forgotten the mirror but you are correct there was one at the far end of the bridge. Obviously, at a later date I decided to visually block the bridge end with trees and bushes 😊. Hopefully number 3 will be the last - I am pinning my hopes on Metcalfe. Interesting you are making 3D printed signals - I would imagine it is a pretty useful modelling tool. I am tempted to make more semaphore signals but need to crack on with the town diorama and bridge end of my layout. Wish I was in Thailand - we have had snow in the UK this week and I think my boiler is on the blink 😊😊😊😊 David
Hi David, I’ve recently come across your channel and have to say you’re doing a fantastic job - there is some really nice modelling going on here. I share your frustration with fading of printed sheets. Have you considered using an artist’s clear aerosol varnish? They’re usually UV resistant so might help to protect your buildings from the dreaded sunlight. You can pick it up from hobbycraft, or rustoleum do a good one on Amazon if you search for artist’s Matt varnish spray. Keep up the good work 🙂
Hi, many thanks for your kind comments. Really appreciated. I have been making these buildings for some while. I have used various sealing coats. Problem is, I never kept track which finish I used on which model. I am going to do some testing again. Many people have also commented on this and suggested different products. I have some Liquitex acrylic art varnish and will certainly try this in test. So thanks to you and all who have commented and made suggestions. I will mention this in an update video early in the new year. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year ... David
One approach to significantly reduce fading on DIY brick papers is to use pigment inks though it’s probably not worth buying a suitable printer solely for modelling alone.
Hi, thanks for the suggestion. Had a massive response on this subject so I plan to run comparison tests before I make a change. If I do I will run some videos. Cost is always a factor so I will start my testing with the inks/paper and sealants I already have - thanks again 👍👍👍
Engaging and informative video as always David, have you thought about adding a white sighting patch to the bridge to make the signal more visible to a driver? A painted white, probably off white or cream, oblong on the brickwork. The Great Eastern used these often so it would be prototypical. Best regards Simon.
Hi Simon, thanks for the comments, much appreciated. No, I have not thought about this. Great idea, I would need to sight it from the model eye level - always happy to add detail of this kind 👍👍👍
What an interesting episode David. I'm really interested in this "fading" you're being plagued with. I've never really come across this problem before; possibly my windows always faced the right way, or we just get less sun up here.😁 It would never have crossed my mind to clearcoat a cardboard building, so food for thought there. Something's puzzling me about your signal. I don't claim to be an expert in the black art of signalling but why did you go for a distant? I would have expected that to be the section signal for trains departing Deresley, controlled from Deresley 'box. As a distant, it implies it's under the control of the 'box in advance, the next one down the line. Seems a wee bit unlikely but I may be missing something. 😁 Using transfers for the signal arm was a wee flash of genius; I would never have thought of that. It's an obvious solution 𝒏𝒐𝒘, saves trying to paint in the chevrons. If you're using the same printer, I hope the yellow doesn't fade, although replacing it wouldn't be a big job. Looking forward to seeing it in action. 👍👌😁 Cheers for now, Dougie.
Hi Dougie thanks for the comments and questions 👍👍 First the fading. There is no doubt that exposure to UV light of most things will actually cause them to fade over time. My railway never receives direct sunlight as the window faces north. It bugs me that there is something I am doing 'wrong'. Since this video quite a few people suffer as well. So, I can't answer you, but keep watching I will be doing some tests (on video) before I use self printed sheets again. I am no great experts on BR signalling either, but this is how I understand it. The Home signals were 'stop go' affairs like traffic lights. Signal horizontal and a train can't pass, signal up (or down deepening on region) and the train can pass. A Distant signal is a warning signal - it echo's the signal ahead. If horizontal it can still be passed but says 'be prepared to stop as the next signal against you.' This is because trains are massively heavy and require long distances to reduce speed and stop. Without distances signals trains would have to move at much slower speeds. Normally, as I understand it, they were within a mile of the signal ahead It may well be under the control of the signal box. Running a model railway involves a massive amount of compromise. A scale mile in OO gauge is over 100 feet. The visible part of my layout is only 12 feet. There is always more than 1 reality. There is the reality that semaphore signals were widespread. They are part of the nostalgia of the steam era. For that 'reality' I decided to include them at Deresley. I think they are correctly placed but am prepared to accept the compromise of distances. Hope this helps - this has been with my 'reasoning'. 😊😊👍👍
As a reasonably long standing Subscriber, I have always liked your style and have just enjoyed a very pleasant 20 minutes with this update. As a bit of an old rocker, the music in the last 2 videos has also put a smile on my face. I am avoiding the Barber whilst the pandemic still continues, and are we both using this as an excuse for reliving our long-haired youth? Keep up the good work David.
Hahahahahahaaha! I agree totally with all the comments! Sadly I’ll never have hair like Robert Plant now and I joined the army at 16. This is my chance to grow it out😂
Some very nice work there; I've gotten the idea to build something slightly similar for my own entertainment- though it'd be a small through station located in a Market Town, set in the inter-war period on the LNER.
Thanks David, appreciate the comments. Like the sound of your railway idea, both the setting and the era. Good luck with it. Mine started life as a 4 foot shelf display now it measures over 22 feet (including fiddle yards) - THE BUG WILL BITE ❤😃😃😃👍👍👍
@@davidhyde4329 Yeah; the biggest problem I have is actually partly due to your work, ironically- I want to define several businesses in the immediate environs of Trenholme Junction (the name I gave my station), to ascertain what I'd need for the goods yard aside from a goods shed and staithes for the local coal merchant. Otherwise, the next hassle is finding appropriate 1920's and 1930's road vehicles for the goods yard and a road bridge (which acts as a scenic break, like yours does).
Hello David - thanks for the most entertaining and informative video - lovely to see the streets of Deresley completely litter free - oh that that was the case nowadays!!! Finally, in a recent video you showed some cctv cameras - I (if I ever get the layout finished) will have to employ a similar system since the fiddle yard will be below the station on the upper deck and hence out of view! I looked on line for cameras similar to the ones that you have but couldn't find any - can you let me know where you got yours from? Best wishes.
Hi, thanks for the comments, glad you liked it. Don't get me started on litter - pet hate. I might (reluctantly) litter the diorama up a but when I get to the final stages. Ah yes - the cctv cameras - I have been asked about them before. Upon good advice from John Tothill (electronics wizard of Canal Sidings channel) I bough these inexpensive cameras from ebay - if you are not ready to install them yet buy from China - much much cheaper. Here is a link (although a search of 'mini spy cameras' will give you a choice of plenty more suppliers. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Security-CCTV-Camera-Night-Vision-6LED-Wired-CMOS-420TVL-700TVL-Indoor-Lot/362736148203?hash=item5474c25eeb:g:K5sAAOSw8w9dVETj Hope this helps 👍👍👍
Hi David, very nice work sir. Concerning your problem with paint fading due to UV damage. Instead of replacing a lot of your work, why not Eliminate the problem at the source? There are UV blocking Sheets you can purchase which you can adhere to your windows. The sheets will block the sun's UV rays from shining into your home. Ask at your local hardware or home building supply shop.
Hi Stephen, lovely comment, much appreciated. Many thanks for that tip. I too use acrylic mediums and varnishes - I will check this out. After much interest in this subject I will do some comparison tests over the next 6 months, I will certainly include acrylics - thanks. PS I think I will video progress 👍👍👍
Hi David, would you not paint under the bridge in black plus the tight curve after the entrance may be in view with a diarama? Just a thought but otherwise I love watching this excellent layout evolving, great stuff as always.
Hi Norman. Thanks for the comment. As my railway is the feature of the channel, much of my railway running videos are shot from a scale(ish) eye level to achieve a realistic effect. If the bridge is black and/or the lighting is blocked in the fiddle yard then my bridge would look like a tunnel - which would not do. I need to give the illusion of a bridge with clear views beyond. Yes, you may well be right about the curve being too much in evidence - I will have to worry about that at a later date .😊 So glad you like to follow the ups and downs at Deresley, lovely comment 👍👍👍
Hello again David. I don't tend to read your offerings sequentially, so I just found this one. Just a thought re-the new semaphore signal. Would it not be more appropriate for it to be the advanced starting signal for Deresley box, rather than a distant signal?
Hi Peter. Thanks for the suggestion. I am going to throw my hands up here 😊 I don't fully understand the signalling system of the period. I do know, however, that railway modellers have to make massive compromises regarding distances - so proper placement is nigh on impossible. So the only response I can make is 'I don't know'. I am perfectly prepared to accept that you are totally correct in what you say. I will look into 'advanced starting signals' as I am not 100% committed. But I may decide to live with the compromise. Have a good Christmas 😊👍👍👍 ... David
My layout is in the loft, so no problems with uv for me! ;-) The new bridge looks great and I'm sure the hotel, done to your usual high standard, will be superb, and more of a scenic break/view block than the single storey garage. I too prefer semaphore signals to lights, for no particular reason other than I think mechanical signals are more interesting. I'm a big fan of the Oxford Diecast vehicles too - in fact they were a major factor in deciding which era to model. Are your lockdown locks bothering you David? Or do you always fiddle with your hair! ;-) Great video as always. Cheers
Hi Davie, many thanks, appreciate your comments 👍👍👍 Yes, the value of the hotel as a scenic block was very much on my mind when I re-thought this. Totally agree about the signals and the diecasts. I will see how this Ratio signal works out - I would like to change my others at some point. As for my 'lockdown locks' (love it) - I did not realise how much I fiddled until I got the videos into the editor. Believe me I hid a lot more behind the overlay clips. I can only put this down to self-consciousness. I quite like the idea of letting my hair grow (after all I was a teenager in the 1960s). My family is tolerating it - rather than liking it so perhaps I am a little anxious that the hair should not look too messy. Glad you liked the video 😁😁😁
Hi Michael, many thanks for the comments. I have just watched the video again on my TV and yes, you are right there is a background hum that I had not noticed before. I do apologise for this. I have found a part of the video where the hum cuts in and its not at an editing point. We have had extensive road resurfacing going on in the area involving large, slow moving, vehicles. I can only assume my recorder picked up the 'distant' hum of this from outside. Thanks for bringing this to my attention. I record in a spare bedroom and do try to keep my videoing and sound recording as 'professional' as I can. I will double check in future. Apologies again 👍👍👍
hello, dave, sorry to hear about your fading walls. Have you ever considered painting the walls back? Can I suggest some additional roughing up of general scenes?
Hi David, thanks. Yes I have considered this and it is a very good idea. Many people have commented on this issue so I am thinking of running a test over the next 6 months specifically for the fading UV problem. You can certainly suggest I should rough things up, and I intend to do so. I need to 'finish' the scene as a whole first. I have applied some weathering to the individual buildings but it needs more. The scene needs to work 'as a whole' so I think it is best to do the final roughing up in one session. Thanks again 😊👍👍👍
Hi David, excellent video as always. I am surprised by the fading as I have not had any of this. I use genuine Canon inks in my printer. Do you use genuine ink? (No offence intended).
Hi Paddy, no offence taken my friend. I don't use genuine inks. I get through s lot of inks for my normal work (not at the moment obviously). I am willing to concede that genuine inks would be a better option. Can't justify the cost I am afraid - so alternatives are the route for me - appreciate your comments ... David 👍👍👍
@@davidhyde4329 Hi David, One of the benefits of genuine inks. I have stuff that I printed six or seven years ago (for my layout) that still looks like new. Although expensive, you need to factor in the cost of your time in rebuilding models. Kind regards. Paddy
@@paddycoleman1472 True enough Paddy. May I ask if you spray seal (as recommended by Scalescenes) with auto lacquer or any other UV protection spray. Or do you rely on the high quality of the original inks ? 👍
@@davidhyde4329 Hi David, I started by using Ghiant (as I believe you have) but found the results to be variable. I now use Testors Clear Coat for everything as I have found the results to be reliable and consistent. It is not cheap though but I would rather spend a wee bit more than have to redo models.
@@paddycoleman1472 Thank very much Paddy for your helpful suggestions and for your time in reply. I will definitely put this to the test as there is a big choice in printable textures that I would like to use. 😃👍👍👍
Yes I can, I have thought of that and I might well paint over some of the buildings. Thanks for the reminder - it's made me think more seriously about this, appreciate your comment 👍👍👍
Check out the mediums that dailer rowney and galleria make for acrylic paints as I us them in my model work and my paintings. If you wish pm me on messenger and I can show you and share my tips . Stephen Dowling on fb
Hi David I always enjoy the updates and the memorial garden has to be my favourite area......................So far ..........................Cheers Kev
Thanks Kev, lovely comments, truly appreciated - glad you like that area 👍👍👍
Excellent video. It gives such an insight into an area one seldom thinks about, and the dilemmas they can bring! I look forward to seeing the bridge, signal and new backing behind the bridge in full use.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hello David
Yet another fascinating update from Deresley. I really enjoyed what you did with the semaphore signal and will be watching with great interest for points and tips on how you intend to connect it to the servo. Great work and stay safe.
Keep sharing and model on.
Regards
Lee@NEAR
Many thanks Lee. Will keep this connection 'simple' to start (operating with the servo tester) but have plans to change this to being controlled by Arduino later in the new year. (Once I have worked out how to do it) 😊👍👍👍
Thanks David,
Very entertaining and inspiring. I love the way the railway is developing. You must be very pleased.
Those 20 minutes went so quickly. When you're having fun ............
Thanks again.
Bob
Glad you enjoyed it Bob and thanks for the lovely comment 👍👍👍
Hi David, another enjoyable watch with my morning cuppa. It;s a shame about the UV problem, the Scalescenes garage kit looked great and something I was planning for my N gauge layout at some point. I’m hoping I don’t have the same problem as my railway cabin doesn’t get to much direct sunlight. I like the idea of the hotel though and look forward to you making it. The Metcalfe bridge looks great too and after watching you and Tony North Eastern use their brick card I may very well look into this myself. Cheers David, John
Hi John, thanks for the comments, much appreciated. I love the Scalescenes stuff. Check out the comment by Paddy Colemen (somewhere below) - he uses Canon's own original inks and has had no issues with UV fading (I use third-party inks myself) - perhaps that's the answer. For me, I think I will stick to the brick card sheets from Metcalfe and others. Several positive comments about the hotel idea - so it will go ahead. 👍👍👍
Interesting I used to go to Hitchin trainspotting in the 60’s
We used to sit up on the chalk cliff we could just see the entrance to the shed.
Thank you for taking time to share the videos I find very interesting.
Dave
Hello Dave. Yes know the sight well. I am probably a bit older than you, all of my pre-teen years were in the 1950s. My nan and great grandmother lived in Common Rise. You may know it - it was a short walk from there to the chalk cliffs. Often we would picnic with them on those cliffs. Our thrill was to watch the steam locos on the turntable. That turntable is still in existence I believe - in Norfolk somewhere. Great memories - thanks ❤👍👍👍
Thanks for sharing these eye candies, great job, I do like the park and the bridge...👍👍
Thanks Phil, much appreciated. Glad you like the park and bridge - 👍👍👍
Good morning. Yes card kits do fade in the sunshine 😩 I use matt varnish and that seems to slow down the fading 👍🏻 What a lovely job you’ve done on that signal 🤣 I’ve got some and not even got them out of the box yet lol 😆 May have a go now I’ve seen yours 😀 Like the transfer idea too 👍🏻 You should do some more signal builds a little slower 😂 And make sure you show how you do the servo 🤔 Cheers Stevie 😎
Hello Stevie. Thanks for your comments. Will be doing some testing on printing/fading - had a big response to this. Glad you liked the signal. This was to be my one and only semaphore signal on the layout, but, I like it too so there may well be more to follow (at a slower speed 😊). I will certainly be showing the connection - the servo arrived yesterday. 👍👍👍
Very interesting David to hear about the fading issues and how much you rate the MetCalfe buildings brickwork. The new bridge looks great and looking forward to what you put up behind the tunnel mouth. Always love watching your layout, you put so much effort into it and I want to live there.
Regards Chris
Hello Chris. Glad you love watching thanks for that. Can't wait to get the bridge end started 👍👍👍
Love the idea of the Hotel.... and such a nice example you managed to work from... can’t wait to see you build it...
Thanks Simon - yes it seems a typical small town hotel so it's not going to look out of place in Deresley. I will cover the build of this - looking forward to it too. Appreciate the comment 👍👍👍
Rocking the long hair Dave! Looking super trendy fella kudos for us older boys. I loved the first bridge & the buildings on or near it, which you named after family members (pub) without going back & checking & that’s about it as I can only echo the complaints made about this video great work well done
Thanks John (I think). 'Rock on' ... David 👍👍👍
@@davidhyde4329 I followed up on my comment and you painted the buildings on a back scene The Black Bull pub?
Hi David. i like the idea of the hotel. that would make a great project. I would'nt mind having a go at something like that myself. but not just yet. must finish my station first. you could also have a horse and dray pulling up out side the hotel dropping of some beer. i remember you pulling up the first bridge. that was some time ago. you can not go wrong with Metcalfe brick sheets. you said yourself they never fade. the small shop you could paint that white and just before the paint dries add some very fine sand. let it dry and give another coat of paint. i do like your work my friend.....all the best Tony
Hi Tony, many thanks for the tips. I will probably re-paint some of the buildings. On a positive note it might spur me on to change them rather than rebuild them. Glad you like the idea of the Hotel - No brickwork on the frontage of this😊 I could have a horse and dray it certainly would not be out of place in the 1960's (will add it to my Christmas list😊) 👍👍👍
Good one bro....most stations had Railway Hotels near by......so good idea.
Yes, true enough. Glad you liked it. See you later 👍👍👍
Coming on very nicely 👍
Thanks 👍
Good to see you back with another update, I had to pause the scene of the road and the memorial garden, just to have a closer look, it does look realistic, great modelling work, all the best, Dave
Hi Dave, lovely comment, thanks. Really appreciate it - nice to be back 👍👍👍
Nice Modelling,
Great Job with all the Flowers etc 👍
Thanks Mick, really appreciated ❤👍👍
Hello David. All forging ahead nicely. The garden is absolutely stunning..beautiful work.
Keep safe and well
Cheers, Bob
Many thanks Bob, lovely comment, glad you like it. Stay safe 😊👍👍👍
You certainly have the patience of Job.....very impressive...😊
Thanks David, really appreciated 👍👍👍
The semaphore signal is a piece of work in itself. Nice idea to use decals. All the best, Ian
Many thanks Ian - appreciate your comment 👍👍👍
Excellent as always mate.
Just shows how good even a simple proprietary kit can look with a little bit of work.
Absolutely James, thanks, appreciate the comment 👍👍👍
Hi David, Regarding the garage. I built the same model using plastic card then painted and weathered. Another very inspiring video, thanks for sharing, looking forward to the next.
Hi John, thanks for the comment. Yes, that seems a good way to go also. I am getting so much good advice on this. I will have to make changes - perhaps I will do some tests over the next 6 months. 👍👍👍
Great update as always, David. I like the new bridge in particular - you can’t go wrong with the Metcalfe kits!
Many thanks - I agree they are very good kits - I wish they did some more brick paper options. 👍👍👍
The hotel and the car park are a great idea. Excellent effort on the bridge and the signal. Always a pleasure to catch up with you. Looking forward to next one. Thanks David
Thanks for that David - glad you like the Hotel Idea. Appreciate your comment 👍👍👍
Thanks for the update David - very enjoyable. I am always impressed by how much thought and planning you perform before making a decision about Deresley.
Many thanks Ian. A lot of the enjoyment I get from Deresley is the planning and research - glad you like the update 👍👍👍
Another really fascinating update David. Lovely to see all of your great progress.
Many thanks, appreciate the comments 👍👍👍
Hello David, there are always changes and improvements to be made on a layout but it's rather sad when fading ink or paint is the reason. I do hope you don't suffer more of that with your new builds. My train spotting days ( 1958-65)were spent just north of Hitchin and I remember the semaphores well. Your town scene is looking fantastic. Take care and we'll see you on your next update. Regards, David.
Hi David, thanks, appreciate the comments. I am not too worried about the fading. Luckily I don't have too many buildings on the layout. I will probably paint some and I shall enjoy re-building the others. Interesting your train spotting days were in the same era - I was 18 years old in 1965 (sigh!). You take care too, thanks again 👍👍👍
Once again brilliant can't wait for running session on your magnificent layout.
Yes, a running video is over due - I will wait until the bridge end is finished as it forms a major part of and videos I make. Appreciate your comment 👍👍👍
I must admit i don't use any printed paper brick if fact no paper/card on my layout its all plastic/metal/modroc etc and no water colours any painting is acrylic. i've know a lot of modellers who print there own stuff and eventually had the same problems. love the idea of the view from under the new bridge to be, i have lighting there as well so i'm taking on board your idea as i have a sharp bend also. hotel idea will be fantastic.
Hi Desmond, thanks for the comments - I thought it was just me but it seems there are many others who have experienced the same problem. The more comments I get about this subject the more I feel it would be good to do some comparative testing over, say, the next 6 months or so. I must admit, I like modelling in card, particularly in this scale. Certainly will be pressing on with the diorama through the bridge. More materials have arrived for this to begin this job. Glad you like the hotel idea, it seems popular too. 👍👍👍
New bridge is awesome. Your layout is cool.
Lot of time and work and it shows .
Mike Espo .
Thanks Mike, wonderful comment, truly appreciated 👍👍👍
Looks absolutely stunning. Your work is outstanding and the results mirror your efforts, well done
Thank you! Cheers, wonderful comments, truly appreciated ❤👍👍👍
Superb update David ! i like your idea of a mini diorama it should look nice behind the bridge ,nice one sir !👍
Many thanks Paul - comments really appreciated 👍👍👍
Very enjoyable update David, the signal is brilliant.
Hi Martin Thanks, appreciate the comment. So-far-so-good with the signal - all I have to do now is to get it to work remotely 👍👍👍
fantastic video David! I can't wait to see the layout completed! All the best, James.
'Layout Completed' ??? - I don't know of anyone who has completed their railway 😁😁 I will be working on another running video when the bridge end is completed. Appreciate your comments James 👍👍👍
Good afternoon David. I found the video very enjoyable. Certainly there's a breadth to your modelling - from infinitesimal locomotive detailing to broad stroke scenic work - which is admirable. Do you think you might have time to do any more videos on your locomotive and stock modification, or operating the layout?
Many thanks for your lovely comment. It's a balancing act, as you can imagine. (or more of a chicken-and egg). Which to do first. I want to do more stock detailing and I certainly will be doing a running video. But, because I like my running videos to look as realistic as I can make them - I do need to finish the bridge, and the scenery. I plan to put the Dinky Toy restorations on hold now and concentrate on the railway. First get the new bridge and scenery in place, and then a running video. 👍👍👍
@@davidhyde4329 Thank you for taking the time to reply, I imagine it's quite tough to get through all the comments on every video. The drawbacks to TH-cam fame? Take care,
Fantastic job!
Thank you Alex - Cheers!
Brilliant update David, a timely warning for me about UV as I am about to to build a stone wall around the M P D, I shall have to spray seal it, it is my first build in using papers l tend to scratch build with Wills plastic. Your layout is looking really good, keep up the good modeling.
Cheers Grahame
Thanks Grahame, lovely comment. Had a lot of response on this problem - plan to do some testing - will share on video. I like card modelling - particularly in this scale. 👍👍👍
Great video , just found your channel and diorama looks great.
Hi Thanks, glad you have found my railway - welcome to Deresley. Appreciate the comment ❤👍👍
Nice David good work
Thanks Brian, appreciate the comment 👍👍👍
Very nice! I managed to get a copy of Iain Rice's book that you mentioned a few videos ago. I'm looking forward to reading it.
Excellent insight into the subject - hope you enjoy reading it 👍👍👍
Hi David, and thank you for a very interesting update. The Golden lion hotel build is a great idea and it will make me feel right at home when I visit having spent so many lunchtimes in there when I worked in the Old Mill in St. Ives!
The diorama behind the bridge is a great idea. It had never occurred to me that it was a problem as the lights in the fiddle yard have usually been off when I have visited.
Nice Signal too. If you need any help or advice on driving the servo you know where I am.
You really do seem to have a lot of trouble with fading printer ink. I have built lots of the download and print Scalescenes kits and never had any significant fading. I wonder if it is related to the particular inks you have used.
It looks like we will struggle to meet up any time before the new year now that we are in tier 2 probably until after Christmas. ................................John
Hi John, thanks. My first job was to find a lion (echoes of the war memorial soldier). Preiser do a nicely posed male lion so all seems good to go. I like the Golden Lion too - once saw Eric Morecambe in there - I think he had a financial interest. Am thinking of focussing on this fading problem with test prints/solutions over the next 6 months. Many comments about this have come in. Might do videos too. We will certainly speak again on the signalling - my youngest daughter, Elizabeth, is buying me an Arduino Uno for Christmas - no stopping me now 😁😁👍👍
Hi David, Is there a lion available was my first thought too!!!. I will certainly be interested to know the outcome of your fading tests. I have had a look at my Scalescenes kits that I built nearly 10 years ago and I don't see any fading. Perhaps my blackout blind does a better job than I expected. That said it wasn't always there.
The Uno is a very good place to start with Arduino as it is what most tutorials use. I will be waiting for the 'phone to ring. .................John
Great video, as always. Watching you from over here in Perth Western Australia. Got me thinking about the Ratio signal kits now too 👍👍
Hi Bruce, wow - Western Australia - glad you liked the video very nice of you to comment. This will be the first time I have built a working signal - hopefully have it working, for you to see, in my next railway update. So thanks from the other side of the world - I can tell you the time here (now) is 08:10 and it is SNOWING !!! (I kid you not) 👍👍👍
@@davidhyde4329 well I just purchased a couple of ratio signal kits from the UK the will be here some time in January, so I am looking forward to your next vid on this build
@@brucewoods9377 Nice one Bruce - I will video the next step 👍👍
¡Hola buenas tardes David! As ever, a full and. Interesting update. I’ve been fortunate with fading issues as the garage has a shuttered window. However, I did fall foul when applying isopropyl alcohol whilst laying scenics. My hillside tunnel portal has an area of colour fade but, I hope to hide this with some climbing ivy. I too have some homemade servo testers which, I intend using on the new branch line station board, with some semaphore signals. I’m currently experimenting with scratch build control wires/rodding. I look forward to the next Deresley update and, in the meantime, stay safe and well. Un saludo. Gary
Hola buenos dias Gary. Interesting to hear you are thinking of using servo testers as well. I will need some control 'rodding' myself. There are components available for R/C boat and plane control so I am going to check these out first.
I think a lot of us are having problems with inkjet printed sheets - See Paddy Coleman's comment (below) - he uses genuine Canon inks and has had no UV issues. Thanks, appreciate the comments 👍👍👍
I had read that there are several UV protection sprays available on the market. However, not been used by me. I now use a coating of matt spray varnish, on all my scratch build items to prevent damp and accidental water splashes affecting them. I use a drill to twist fine garden wire straight (see Gormo at Great Chesterford Junction) and, I use the MERG site for electronic projects. Once you’re a member, you can use their project database. Assembly is no more fiddly than the signal you just completed. Un saludo. Gary
@@garydoc Thanks for the additional follow up. I will do some tests - I have the UV spray I showed in my last video and I have used Auto Lacquer (which I use to seal my printed decals). I also have some matt acrylic varnish. I have heard of the MERG site and will certainly check this out on your recommendation - thanks.
I first started watching your channel when it had the first bridge in it and wasn't there a mirror at the end of the bridge? Living in Thailand, I have worries about fading as the intended room faces West. I do have tinted windows and the curtains will be closed all the time. The back scene should also help. Good luck with the Number 3 and I shall watch with interest. I was making colour light signals whilst I was watching this video. There are 3D printed ones and are of the early BR type with head on a second pole. I will finish these 12 and then think again what I will do about the rest. Martin. (Thailand)
Hi Martin, wow, that's some time ago - I had forgotten the mirror but you are correct there was one at the far end of the bridge. Obviously, at a later date I decided to visually block the bridge end with trees and bushes 😊.
Hopefully number 3 will be the last - I am pinning my hopes on Metcalfe. Interesting you are making 3D printed signals - I would imagine it is a pretty useful modelling tool. I am tempted to make more semaphore signals but need to crack on with the town diorama and bridge end of my layout. Wish I was in Thailand - we have had snow in the UK this week and I think my boiler is on the blink 😊😊😊😊 David
Hi David, I’ve recently come across your channel and have to say you’re doing a fantastic job - there is some really nice modelling going on here. I share your frustration with fading of printed sheets. Have you considered using an artist’s clear aerosol varnish? They’re usually UV resistant so might help to protect your buildings from the dreaded sunlight. You can pick it up from hobbycraft, or rustoleum do a good one on Amazon if you search for artist’s Matt varnish spray. Keep up the good work 🙂
Hi, many thanks for your kind comments. Really appreciated. I have been making these buildings for some while. I have used various sealing coats. Problem is, I never kept track which finish I used on which model. I am going to do some testing again. Many people have also commented on this and suggested different products. I have some Liquitex acrylic art varnish and will certainly try this in test. So thanks to you and all who have commented and made suggestions. I will mention this in an update video early in the new year. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year ... David
@@davidhyde4329 No problem David, glad if the suggestions helped. Happy Christmas and New Year to you too 🙂
All these additions do add reality to your layout
Many thanks David, always appreciate your comment 👍👍👍
One approach to significantly reduce fading on DIY brick papers is to use pigment inks though it’s probably not worth buying a suitable printer solely for modelling alone.
Hi, thanks for the suggestion. Had a massive response on this subject so I plan to run comparison tests before I make a change. If I do I will run some videos. Cost is always a factor so I will start my testing with the inks/paper and sealants I already have - thanks again 👍👍👍
Engaging and informative video as always David, have you thought about adding a white sighting patch to the bridge to make the signal more visible to a driver? A painted white, probably off white or cream, oblong on the brickwork. The Great Eastern used these often so it would be prototypical. Best regards Simon.
Hi Simon, thanks for the comments, much appreciated. No, I have not thought about this. Great idea, I would need to sight it from the model eye level - always happy to add detail of this kind 👍👍👍
Nice idea, and one you don't often see modelled.👍
What an interesting episode David. I'm really interested in this "fading" you're being plagued with. I've never really come across this problem before; possibly my windows always faced the right way, or we just get less sun up here.😁 It would never have crossed my mind to clearcoat a cardboard building, so food for thought there.
Something's puzzling me about your signal. I don't claim to be an expert in the black art of signalling but why did you go for a distant? I would have expected that to be the section signal for trains departing Deresley, controlled from Deresley 'box. As a distant, it implies it's under the control of the 'box in advance, the next one down the line. Seems a wee bit unlikely but I may be missing something. 😁
Using transfers for the signal arm was a wee flash of genius; I would never have thought of that. It's an obvious solution 𝒏𝒐𝒘, saves trying to paint in the chevrons. If you're using the same printer, I hope the yellow doesn't fade, although replacing it wouldn't be a big job.
Looking forward to seeing it in action. 👍👌😁
Cheers for now,
Dougie.
Hi Dougie thanks for the comments and questions 👍👍 First the fading. There is no doubt that exposure to UV light of most things will actually cause them to fade over time. My railway never receives direct sunlight as the window faces north. It bugs me that there is something I am doing 'wrong'. Since this video quite a few people suffer as well. So, I can't answer you, but keep watching I will be doing some tests (on video) before I use self printed sheets again.
I am no great experts on BR signalling either, but this is how I understand it. The Home signals were 'stop go' affairs like traffic lights. Signal horizontal and a train can't pass, signal up (or down deepening on region) and the train can pass. A Distant signal is a warning signal - it echo's the signal ahead. If horizontal it can still be passed but says 'be prepared to stop as the next signal against you.' This is because trains are massively heavy and require long distances to reduce speed and stop. Without distances signals trains would have to move at much slower speeds. Normally, as I understand it, they were within a mile of the signal ahead It may well be under the control of the signal box. Running a model railway involves a massive amount of compromise. A scale mile in OO gauge is over 100 feet. The visible part of my layout is only 12 feet. There is always more than 1 reality. There is the reality that semaphore signals were widespread. They are part of the nostalgia of the steam era. For that 'reality' I decided to include them at Deresley. I think they are correctly placed but am prepared to accept the compromise of distances. Hope this helps - this has been with my 'reasoning'. 😊😊👍👍
As a reasonably long standing Subscriber, I have always liked your style and have just enjoyed a very pleasant 20 minutes with this update. As a bit of an old rocker, the music in the last 2 videos has also put a smile on my face. I am avoiding the Barber whilst the pandemic still continues, and are we both using this as an excuse for reliving our long-haired youth? Keep up the good work David.
😃😃😎 Lovely comment Patrick and thanks for your continued support. I am avoiding the barber too - for exactly the same reasons. Rock on .... David
Hahahahahahaaha! I agree totally with all the comments! Sadly I’ll never have hair like Robert Plant now and I joined the army at 16. This is my chance to grow it out😂
@@bugler75 Go for it 😎😁😁😁
Some very nice work there; I've gotten the idea to build something slightly similar for my own entertainment- though it'd be a small through station located in a Market Town, set in the inter-war period on the LNER.
Thanks David, appreciate the comments. Like the sound of your railway idea, both the setting and the era. Good luck with it. Mine started life as a 4 foot shelf display now it measures over 22 feet (including fiddle yards) - THE BUG WILL BITE ❤😃😃😃👍👍👍
@@davidhyde4329 Yeah; the biggest problem I have is actually partly due to your work, ironically- I want to define several businesses in the immediate environs of Trenholme Junction (the name I gave my station), to ascertain what I'd need for the goods yard aside from a goods shed and staithes for the local coal merchant.
Otherwise, the next hassle is finding appropriate 1920's and 1930's road vehicles for the goods yard and a road bridge (which acts as a scenic break, like yours does).
Hello David - thanks for the most entertaining and informative video - lovely to see the streets of Deresley completely litter free - oh that that was the case nowadays!!! Finally, in a recent video you showed some cctv cameras - I (if I ever get the layout finished) will have to employ a similar system since the fiddle yard will be below the station on the upper deck and hence out of view! I looked on line for cameras similar to the ones that you have but couldn't find any - can you let me know where you got yours from? Best wishes.
Hi, thanks for the comments, glad you liked it. Don't get me started on litter - pet hate. I might (reluctantly) litter the diorama up a but when I get to the final stages. Ah yes - the cctv cameras - I have been asked about them before. Upon good advice from John Tothill (electronics wizard of Canal Sidings channel) I bough these inexpensive cameras from ebay - if you are not ready to install them yet buy from China - much much cheaper. Here is a link (although a search of 'mini spy cameras' will give you a choice of plenty more suppliers.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Security-CCTV-Camera-Night-Vision-6LED-Wired-CMOS-420TVL-700TVL-Indoor-Lot/362736148203?hash=item5474c25eeb:g:K5sAAOSw8w9dVETj
Hope this helps 👍👍👍
Hi David, very nice work sir. Concerning your problem with paint fading due to UV damage. Instead of replacing a lot of your work, why not Eliminate the problem at the source? There are UV blocking Sheets you can purchase which you can adhere to your windows. The sheets will block the sun's UV rays from shining into your home. Ask at your local hardware or home building supply shop.
Thanks for the tip! Never thought of that - I will look into it 👍👍👍
Hey David amazing work , In my own work I use artist texture mediums primers and acrylic paints and it prevents fading . Kind regards stephen
Hi Stephen, lovely comment, much appreciated. Many thanks for that tip. I too use acrylic mediums and varnishes - I will check this out. After much interest in this subject I will do some comparison tests over the next 6 months, I will certainly include acrylics - thanks. PS I think I will video progress 👍👍👍
Hi David, would you not paint under the bridge in black plus the tight curve after the entrance may be in view with a diarama? Just a thought but otherwise I love watching this excellent layout evolving, great stuff as always.
Hi Norman. Thanks for the comment. As my railway is the feature of the channel, much of my railway running videos are shot from a scale(ish) eye level to achieve a realistic effect. If the bridge is black and/or the lighting is blocked in the fiddle yard then my bridge would look like a tunnel - which would not do. I need to give the illusion of a bridge with clear views beyond. Yes, you may well be right about the curve being too much in evidence - I will have to worry about that at a later date .😊 So glad you like to follow the ups and downs at Deresley, lovely comment 👍👍👍
Hello again David. I don't tend to read your offerings sequentially, so I just found this one.
Just a thought re-the new semaphore signal. Would it not be more appropriate for it to be the advanced starting signal for Deresley box, rather than a distant signal?
Hi Peter. Thanks for the suggestion. I am going to throw my hands up here 😊 I don't fully understand the signalling system of the period. I do know, however, that railway modellers have to make massive compromises regarding distances - so proper placement is nigh on impossible. So the only response I can make is 'I don't know'. I am perfectly prepared to accept that you are totally correct in what you say. I will look into 'advanced starting signals' as I am not 100% committed. But I may decide to live with the compromise. Have a good Christmas 😊👍👍👍 ... David
My layout is in the loft, so no problems with uv for me! ;-) The new bridge looks great and I'm sure the hotel, done to your usual high standard, will be superb, and more of a scenic break/view block than the single storey garage. I too prefer semaphore signals to lights, for no particular reason other than I think mechanical signals are more interesting. I'm a big fan of the Oxford Diecast vehicles too - in fact they were a major factor in deciding which era to model.
Are your lockdown locks bothering you David? Or do you always fiddle with your hair! ;-) Great video as always. Cheers
Hi Davie, many thanks, appreciate your comments 👍👍👍 Yes, the value of the hotel as a scenic block was very much on my mind when I re-thought this. Totally agree about the signals and the diecasts. I will see how this Ratio signal works out - I would like to change my others at some point.
As for my 'lockdown locks' (love it) - I did not realise how much I fiddled until I got the videos into the editor. Believe me I hid a lot more behind the overlay clips. I can only put this down to self-consciousness. I quite like the idea of letting my hair grow (after all I was a teenager in the 1960s). My family is tolerating it - rather than liking it so perhaps I am a little anxious that the hair should not look too messy. Glad you liked the video 😁😁😁
Great video David and some lovely model work - however there is a terrible HUMMMMMM....that isn't pleasant in the background of much of the footage.
Hi Michael, many thanks for the comments. I have just watched the video again on my TV and yes, you are right there is a background hum that I had not noticed before. I do apologise for this. I have found a part of the video where the hum cuts in and its not at an editing point. We have had extensive road resurfacing going on in the area involving large, slow moving, vehicles. I can only assume my recorder picked up the 'distant' hum of this from outside. Thanks for bringing this to my attention. I record in a spare bedroom and do try to keep my videoing and sound recording as 'professional' as I can. I will double check in future. Apologies again 👍👍👍
Informative, interesting as always , very enjoyable video David many thanks for sharing. Regards Fred ps what papers were you using ?
Hi Fred, many thanks, appreciate the comment. I print on 120g matt self-adhesive photo paper 👍👍👍
hello, dave, sorry to hear about your fading walls. Have you ever considered painting the walls back? Can I suggest some additional roughing up of general scenes?
Hi David, thanks. Yes I have considered this and it is a very good idea. Many people have commented on this issue so I am thinking of running a test over the next 6 months specifically for the fading UV problem. You can certainly suggest I should rough things up, and I intend to do so. I need to 'finish' the scene as a whole first. I have applied some weathering to the individual buildings but it needs more. The scene needs to work 'as a whole' so I think it is best to do the final roughing up in one session. Thanks again 😊👍👍👍
Hi David, excellent video as always. I am surprised by the fading as I have not had any of this. I use genuine Canon inks in my printer. Do you use genuine ink? (No offence intended).
Hi Paddy, no offence taken my friend. I don't use genuine inks. I get through s lot of inks for my normal work (not at the moment obviously). I am willing to concede that genuine inks would be a better option.
Can't justify the cost I am afraid - so alternatives are the route for me - appreciate your comments ... David 👍👍👍
@@davidhyde4329 Hi David, One of the benefits of genuine inks. I have stuff that I printed six or seven years ago (for my layout) that still looks like new. Although expensive, you need to factor in the cost of your time in rebuilding models. Kind regards. Paddy
@@paddycoleman1472 True enough Paddy. May I ask if you spray seal (as recommended by Scalescenes) with auto lacquer or any other UV protection spray. Or do you rely on the high quality of the original inks ? 👍
@@davidhyde4329 Hi David, I started by using Ghiant (as I believe you have) but found the results to be variable. I now use Testors Clear Coat for everything as I have found the results to be reliable and consistent. It is not cheap though but I would rather spend a wee bit more than have to redo models.
@@paddycoleman1472 Thank very much Paddy for your helpful suggestions and for your time in reply. I will definitely put this to the test as there is a big choice in printable textures that I would like to use. 😃👍👍👍
Hi sir could you paint the walls as in the original ? Great video as ever 😀👍
Yes I can, I have thought of that and I might well paint over some of the buildings. Thanks for the reminder - it's made me think more seriously about this, appreciate your comment 👍👍👍
Check out the mediums that dailer rowney and galleria make for acrylic paints as I us them in my model work and my paintings. If you wish pm me on messenger and I can show you and share my tips . Stephen Dowling on fb