Alan - thanks for a very detailed description of this process. I have not used panel adhesive before, but now I can see how beneficial it can be for certain projects!
Thanks Ron. Panel bonding is definitely not for every project but I’ve found a lot of uses for it over the years. I’ve bonded metal structures to Fiberglass cars (I should have mentioned it’s good for joining dissimilar materials), and sealing up panels that would be impossible to seam seal later. The 55 Belair I most recently did, both inner quarter panels were panel bonded and spot welded in. All in the name of a better finished project. 👍🏻👍🏻
This is the rabbit hole no one tells about nor do they even speak of this process please don't discount your work nobody shows this! It's not glamor its the reality and tedious detail that is not witnessed. Thank you for this series.
I often get questions about the little details of this type of project so I thought it best to just show the entire process for once. Thank you very much!
@@HotRodHippie you have a lot on your plate and I don't have much time to explain but sitting down to your show gave me perspective on what needs to be done and what can be done to improve a custom you own.
Thanks for keeping it simple and clear. I've used por-15 before but not panel bond. My son and his crew use it on airplanes for panel replacement and swear by it. I am considering a 65 c30 that has been neglected. The whole front edge of the roof is gone all the way to the windshield. A shop in Tampa makes the cab in fiberglass. My plan is to cut and replace from the dash up to and including the roof to below the rear window. You've shown me how important it is to take care and time in making sure everything is ready, clean and prepped. Thanks again
Alan, sweet job of all of the thinking, body panel adhesive and spot welding that roof panel. I used a flange method installing a “Large” rear window. Most don’t realize there is about 8mm or 5/16” between the inner and outer panels. Very nice job. I could not think anyone can find fault in this skin. I inherited the 67 C10 after fix very little rust, electrical and other. My son decided to change jobs and didn’t need the PU. They problem with the rear window was is came out of an old camper, then held in place with screw & silicon. After a buddy volunteered a cordless reciprocal saw and had 5 extra batteries, I got the cab back and slider window for $80. I think I had 10 more vise grips to hold it in place. A drawing with measurements help calm my nerves a little less than one of the guys who was in the first submarine. Came out very good but spent some money on self-leveling seam sealer and taping it off on the same roof panel as some of it came off during some wire wheel action. Very nice job execution and the only one on TH-cam. Excellent, clear, to the point and explanations. Dam good! Omaha
The spot welds prevent a future failure they wont allow the panel bond to flex too much and break adhesion. The inner structure was good and a good prep and rust inhibitor job. Top notch job!!
Glad you liked it. I worry about the longer ones not keeping people's attention, but this one just had too much information to cut down. It's basically 2.5 days worth of work in 21 minutes.
Great video Alan I’d have done exactly the same with the time and equipment resources you had, spot on 🤩 There are a couple of other products available in the uk with a 24 hr cure and also a couple of brands that come in a standard caulking type gun. I’ve never been truly successful using 2 pack bonding for butt/lap jointing, it’s definitely strong enough but I can never escape some kind of shrinkage of the product that eventually shows up on the paint surface, hardly noticeable but still there under close observation 🧐
I wouldn’t use it in a visible joint for that very reason. The epoxy will always expand and contract at a different rate than the metal. So even if it didn’t show up quickly from shrinkage, it would eventually due to the heat of the sun on the body. For me it’s best used in overlaps like this where that won’t be a factor. Thanks Trev 👍🏻👍🏻
I would like to say you are lucky to have your dad, plus his help! It is a big job and I think that you did a perfect job. The upside down MIG welding plug holes has got to be physically taxing. For that alone, I give a 10 of 10. It’s better than any 3M video. A self leveling seam sealer would a great product to finish it off. You did the cab skin on that truck a solid job!
Thank you very much. Self-Leveling Seam Sealer is exactly what I requested of the body shop. With the welds "hidden" on the underside of the flange the top side is so clean that a nice minimal sealing will look great. Especially since the roof skin will be at the average person's chest or eye level when laid out.
Really interesting video. I'm doing the same thing here on a 63 C-10 except a bit more involved and deep dive and lots more rot. You present yourself and project your voice very well -- you must have been a theater student in High School! So many TH-camrs just mumble and don't project their voices. Again, good video and informative, gave me some good ideas, thanks.
Alan,great video. For the other gents seeing these comments,instead of drilling out the spot weld. Get one of those harbor freight electric cutoff tools,with a 3/8 wide grinding disc and grind the spot welds off its faster,and you wont drill thru on accident Just a tip from experience
I usually use my Dynabrade hand belt sander to do that same thing usually. My Dad was already half done by the time I started filming so he just kept drilling. Good tip 👍🏻
That was a very well done video, Alan. You showed the reasoning for panel bonding and all the detail that was needed to do the job. Plus, you explained the "oh by the ways" of panel bonding, POR 15 and the acid wipe. Adding more welds to the inner structure while you had access was smart too. Oh ya.. painting inside the new panel fist. Too many people skip that. Yup. A nice video of the start to finish of that part of the project. The cat agrees too. What more could you want? ;)
It isn’t a cheap piece but I was really impressed with the fit and as far as panel replacements go it was one of the easier jobs. If I ever have even a slight question about a roof on one of these in the future I won’t hesitate to replace it. Or if I ever do a Big Back Window swap. (I couldn’t talk my dad into that on his truck.)
Man, just found your page. Very detailed and really well explained as to why and how. Thumbs up brotha, you now have another follower! Keep up the great work
Its primary ingredient is an acid, but it behaves a little differently than the other rust converter acids I've used. Only a little different though. As much as anything POR wants you to use it, so its best to do so. That way if something goes wrong you could say you followed the instructions if approaching POR about it.
@@HotRodHippie I think it's phosphoric because you have to wash off with water which removes the white minerals it creates,as used by the British navy.
NEW SUBSCRIBER here. HA - I had to laugh at your comment about lead --- people in the past after using lead-wiping in areas on their cars used to say to me - "Oh - I've metal finished it all". HA - my response was "BULLSHIT - you have just used lead filler rather than plastic filler - that is NOT metal finishing". HA - most would get offended when I 'scoffed' at their "metal finishing" claims. I recently watched an 'old school metal master' use a 9" grinder to rough down his lead wiping before using the panel file on the lead. Really 'EINSTEIN' - you have not heard of the dangers of lead dust floating around the workshop - and it was a 'high-end' restoration shop. Exactly as you indicate - lead is outdated by far superior (and safer) plastic products. I am not a 'critic' of panel glue - but - just for 'contemplation//discussion purposes' here (and I am not saying 'will' or 'will not' either way) - but if a skin is glued on - how does that glue age - for example over 20 - 50 years? Could that affect the join area - allowing moisture of panel separation etc? Whereas a spot weld (taking corrosion out of the equation on both) - will in theory - still be the same as the day it was done - 20 - 50 years later. Of course, your roof skin with both glue and weld has a somewhat extra degree of 'long term stick'. And I really like the idea of the far easier to clean up welds under the gutter rail than inside - good thought indeed and I for one will be thinking about where I can glue rather than spot weld. HA - discounting the effect of gravity and hot metal liking to be attracted to you as you weld upside down - that was a good idea. It never ceases to amaze me how in the "old days" - bare metal was welded together as a structure and then the only surfaces that typically received any paint were the ones you could see - just about any 'out of sight' surface was DOOOOOOOMED to rust away. Today's vehicle construction with EDP process during construction means that virtually 100% of the entire steel structure is protected. HA - far better than the "old days" method. Have a safe and nice day all. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Around here you have to reattach the part the same way it was installed in the factory to pass a safety inspection. In this case I think you did that by welding as part of the process.
That’s a more intricate inspection than I used to have to do, but I can’t argue with it. There have been some high profile failures as a result of people cutting corners and bonding on structural parts they shouldn’t. I had a chat with a guy at SEMA a few years ago who said his entire week there was all meetings about insurance liability as a result of those cases.
I’m about to start on my paw paw 65 c10 he passed down to me , this stuff like this is what has scared me to start on it for years, out side on mine looks great but every one knows that not always true about underneath
Thank you. There is a patch panel for the front section where it meets the windshield, but not a full inner roof panel. To my knowledge anyway. They only recently started producing the Big Back Window inner panel so I wouldn't be surprised if a roof panel is on the horizon. However I'm not aware of one, sorry to say.
Gonna have to do this with my 60. Except I’ve also got rot in the valley above the windshield. Outside is pretty rough but inside I can poke my finger through. I wonder how feasible it is to replace those 3 panels instead of trying to do patchwork. Also never touched a Mig welder in my life.
Solid job. This looks great. On something like this I’d probably use welds in conjunction with the adhesive. I heard some bad stories while I was in school and think that using just adhesive could be trouble. Really cool to see it being used I’ll very likely be using it in my restoration. Do you have a weld through primer in place/ do you worry about the small ish areas that may be bare?
Dave DiPetrillo there have been horror stories. I have heard of a few but the ones I’ve heard were very structural parts that were entirely bonded in. The only time I solely. One a part together is when it’s dissimilar materials. And even then I’ll usually add some rivets or screws for a mechanical hold. As for the welded areas, I’ve never found a weld thru I like. They all cause issues and don’t etch in enough for my liking. These had epoxy right next to the welds, so much so that clamping squeezes the adhesive into the holes on a few of them. So I feel that the panel bond is doing a sufficient job around the welds. 👍🏻
Yes. You can remove the mixing tip and reinstall the plug into the tube. Usually these come with 2 mixing tips. You need a new one every time you use the tube. So if it doesn't come with extras, buy them ahead of time. As it is a Two Part Epoxy technically you shouldn't have any issues with it hardening up in just a few weeks. I often save unfinished tubes for small projects.
I love learning from your videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I am doing my first truck restoration and had a question for you. What do you feel the best way is to strip the paint from the cab? I have found rust in similar places to this video and want to make sure I am doing the job right. I am on a budget and don’t have the compressor to blast myself. What would you recommend?
Are you referring to “Rust Mort” by SEM? We used POR-15s metal prep before applying the POR, which does the same thing. It is part of what I was referring to about proper preparation of a panel for POR that people often skip. I just didn’t really fit it into the video I guess.
There is a actual paint that stops rust. Its sprays on looking like thin primer almost like etching paint. U spray it on panel other sections will stay as grey primer the rust turns purple the additives init actual stops rust from spreading
I need to do a real test with these products but it has to be a long term project. The thing is, rust isn’t skin deep. It’s inside the metal. Especially once it’s starts to flake even a little bit. So coating over it can’t stop it all. POR claims to do so by starving it of oxygen. Which makes sense if you work with the product but I still question it long term. I’m not worried about stopping rust for a year or two, I’m worried about decades.
@@HotRodHippie yeah that's the only problem no one realy knows if anything actually works on stopping it with out cutting it out. U should do the test it would be most watched but expensive to do
My Dad doesn’t want a Big Back Window. I tried like hell to get him to. It was the perfect time. I can’t see why, but he’s the only person I’ve ever met who prefers the small back window.
But very honestly, if I ever do a Big Back Window swap in the future? I’ll do a roof skin at the same time. Doing both would be far easier than doing just the Back Window and be a cleaner overall job.
Alan - thanks for a very detailed description of this process. I have not used panel adhesive before, but now I can see how beneficial it can be for certain projects!
Thanks Ron. Panel bonding is definitely not for every project but I’ve found a lot of uses for it over the years. I’ve bonded metal structures to Fiberglass cars (I should have mentioned it’s good for joining dissimilar materials), and sealing up panels that would be impossible to seam seal later. The 55 Belair I most recently did, both inner quarter panels were panel bonded and spot welded in. All in the name of a better finished project. 👍🏻👍🏻
GREAT VIDEO
Because of you I will be tackling my 61 this winter with confidence!
Glad to be any part of your project. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Outstanding!.....loved the part where you were welding and your dad was "supervising" from the chair.....eating! Great info thanks man!
Supervising isn’t easy but someone has to do it! 😂. Thanks 👍🏻
Great technique! And thanks for explaining as you went without being annoying.
Thank you, glad you appreciated it. 👍🏻
This is the rabbit hole no one tells about nor do they even speak of this process please don't discount your work nobody shows this! It's not glamor its the reality and tedious detail that is not witnessed. Thank you for this series.
I often get questions about the little details of this type of project so I thought it best to just show the entire process for once. Thank you very much!
@@HotRodHippie you have a lot on your plate and I don't have much time to explain but sitting down to your show gave me perspective on what needs to be done and what can be done to improve a custom you own.
Thanks for keeping it simple and clear. I've used por-15 before but not panel bond. My son and his crew use it on airplanes for panel replacement and swear by it. I am considering a 65 c30 that has been neglected. The whole front edge of the roof is gone all the way to the windshield. A shop in Tampa makes the cab in fiberglass. My plan is to cut and replace from the dash up to and including the roof to below the rear window. You've shown me how important it is to take care and time in making sure everything is ready, clean and prepped. Thanks again
MN, I wish I had found this series a few years ago! You would have saved me many headaches! Awesome work!
Glad you found it good, wish I’d have made it a few years ago. 😂
Alan, sweet job of all of the thinking, body panel adhesive and spot welding that roof panel. I used a flange method installing a “Large” rear window. Most don’t realize there is about 8mm or 5/16” between the inner and outer panels. Very nice job. I could not think anyone can find fault in this skin.
I inherited the 67 C10 after fix very little rust, electrical and other. My son decided to change jobs and didn’t need the PU. They problem with the rear window was is came out of an old camper, then held in place with screw & silicon. After a buddy volunteered a cordless reciprocal saw and had 5 extra batteries, I got the cab back and slider window for $80. I think I had 10 more vise grips to hold it in place. A drawing with measurements help calm my nerves a little less than one of the guys who was in the first submarine. Came out very good but spent some money on self-leveling seam sealer and taping it off on the same roof panel as some of it came off during some wire wheel action. Very nice job execution and the only one on TH-cam. Excellent, clear, to the point and explanations. Dam good! Omaha
The spot welds prevent a future failure they wont allow the panel bond to flex too much and break adhesion. The inner structure was good and a good prep and rust inhibitor job. Top notch job!!
Best video yet. Informative and hit all the high points without being repetitive. Well done.
Glad you liked it. I worry about the longer ones not keeping people's attention, but this one just had too much information to cut down. It's basically 2.5 days worth of work in 21 minutes.
Great video Alan I’d have done exactly the same with the time and equipment resources you had, spot on 🤩 There are a couple of other products available in the uk with a 24 hr cure and also a couple of brands that come in a standard caulking type gun. I’ve never been truly successful using 2 pack bonding for butt/lap jointing, it’s definitely strong enough but I can never escape some kind of shrinkage of the product that eventually shows up on the paint surface, hardly noticeable but still there under close observation 🧐
I wouldn’t use it in a visible joint for that very reason. The epoxy will always expand and contract at a different rate than the metal. So even if it didn’t show up quickly from shrinkage, it would eventually due to the heat of the sun on the body. For me it’s best used in overlaps like this where that won’t be a factor. Thanks Trev 👍🏻👍🏻
I would like to say you are lucky to have your dad, plus his help! It is a big job and I think that you did a perfect job. The upside down MIG welding plug holes has got to be physically taxing. For that alone, I give a 10 of 10. It’s better than any 3M video. A self leveling seam sealer would a great product to finish it off. You did the cab skin on that truck a solid job!
Thank you very much. Self-Leveling Seam Sealer is exactly what I requested of the body shop. With the welds "hidden" on the underside of the flange the top side is so clean that a nice minimal sealing will look great. Especially since the roof skin will be at the average person's chest or eye level when laid out.
Really interesting video. I'm doing the same thing here on a 63 C-10 except a bit more involved and deep dive and lots more rot. You present yourself and project your voice very well -- you must have been a theater student in High School! So many TH-camrs just mumble and don't project their voices. Again, good video and informative, gave me some good ideas, thanks.
Sick PSI conversion shirt your dad is wearing! I have the same one and their harness on my 65 with a 5.3!
Running a Builders Series Harness on the 65. I should have a video about it in the near future. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Lots of great lessons and tips in this video, thanks.
Thank you for this video! Also your dad eating in high speed cracked me up during the weld part of the video
Alan,great video.
For the other gents seeing these comments,instead of drilling out the spot weld.
Get one of those harbor freight electric cutoff tools,with a 3/8 wide grinding disc and grind the spot welds off its faster,and you wont drill thru on accident
Just a tip from experience
I usually use my Dynabrade hand belt sander to do that same thing usually. My Dad was already half done by the time I started filming so he just kept drilling. Good tip 👍🏻
Great video Thank you.
I really like your videos. I like to see people taking pride of their work
Helpful thanks, I’m fixing my turret it now and she’s a bit tight so great tip on maintaining the crown
That was a very well done video, Alan. You showed the reasoning for panel bonding and all the detail that was needed to do the job. Plus, you explained the "oh by the ways" of panel bonding, POR 15 and the acid wipe. Adding more welds to the inner structure while you had access was smart too. Oh ya.. painting inside the new panel fist. Too many people skip that.
Yup. A nice video of the start to finish of that part of the project. The cat agrees too. What more could you want? ;)
Joe Doucette thank you very much Joe. I’m glad people are seeing value in the details that usually go undiscussed in these projects. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Nice video. Very informative. Great process and technique. Mahalo for sharing!
Thanks for the video and the link to the roof. I bought a 66 for my best friend and it needs a roof skin.
It isn’t a cheap piece but I was really impressed with the fit and as far as panel replacements go it was one of the easier jobs. If I ever have even a slight question about a roof on one of these in the future I won’t hesitate to replace it. Or if I ever do a Big Back Window swap. (I couldn’t talk my dad into that on his truck.)
Where did y'all get your roof skins?
Old school guys: "Gee they dont build 'um like they used too."
New school guys: Good.
Man, just found your page. Very detailed and really well explained as to why and how. Thumbs up brotha, you now have another follower! Keep up the great work
The Legendary C10
Awesome video. Great quality repair and love the format. Love your posts and keep them up.
Nick Anderson thanks, no end in sight! We’ll end in sight for the C10 but not for videos.
Another quality job Al👍🏻 when you get comments from Ron Covell you know your doing good💪🏻
Thank you very much. Praise from all viewers is appreciated, but yea Ron chiming in always makes me feel good about what I'm doing.
Truck is gonna be dialed!...Well, I'll look for videos more recent, might be done now! :)
Great video 👍 I think por pre treatment is phosphoric acid so you could delete the por finish coat, nice to see bonding in the video.
Its primary ingredient is an acid, but it behaves a little differently than the other rust converter acids I've used. Only a little different though. As much as anything POR wants you to use it, so its best to do so. That way if something goes wrong you could say you followed the instructions if approaching POR about it.
@@HotRodHippie I think it's phosphoric because you have to wash off with water which removes the white minerals it creates,as used by the British navy.
Vice Grip Garage is jealous of all those clamps.
Great information thanks!!
Thank you I have to do this
Cool... very very cool .
NEW SUBSCRIBER here. HA - I had to laugh at your comment about lead --- people in the past after using lead-wiping in areas on their cars used to say to me - "Oh - I've metal finished it all". HA - my response was "BULLSHIT - you have just used lead filler rather than plastic filler - that is NOT metal finishing". HA - most would get offended when I 'scoffed' at their "metal finishing" claims. I recently watched an 'old school metal master' use a 9" grinder to rough down his lead wiping before using the panel file on the lead. Really 'EINSTEIN' - you have not heard of the dangers of lead dust floating around the workshop - and it was a 'high-end' restoration shop. Exactly as you indicate - lead is outdated by far superior (and safer) plastic products. I am not a 'critic' of panel glue - but - just for 'contemplation//discussion purposes' here (and I am not saying 'will' or 'will not' either way) - but if a skin is glued on - how does that glue age - for example over 20 - 50 years? Could that affect the join area - allowing moisture of panel separation etc? Whereas a spot weld (taking corrosion out of the equation on both) - will in theory - still be the same as the day it was done - 20 - 50 years later. Of course, your roof skin with both glue and weld has a somewhat extra degree of 'long term stick'. And I really like the idea of the far easier to clean up welds under the gutter rail than inside - good thought indeed and I for one will be thinking about where I can glue rather than spot weld. HA - discounting the effect of gravity and hot metal liking to be attracted to you as you weld upside down - that was a good idea. It never ceases to amaze me how in the "old days" - bare metal was welded together as a structure and then the only surfaces that typically received any paint were the ones you could see - just about any 'out of sight' surface was DOOOOOOOMED to rust away. Today's vehicle construction with EDP process during construction means that virtually 100% of the entire steel structure is protected. HA - far better than the "old days" method. Have a safe and nice day all. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Around here you have to reattach the part the same way it was installed in the factory to pass a safety inspection. In this case I think you did that by welding as part of the process.
That’s a more intricate inspection than I used to have to do, but I can’t argue with it. There have been some high profile failures as a result of people cutting corners and bonding on structural parts they shouldn’t. I had a chat with a guy at SEMA a few years ago who said his entire week there was all meetings about insurance liability as a result of those cases.
Wish I could work on my truck in your shop!
Looks good.
Canned Nolan much appreciated 👍🏻👍🏻
No thank you for the information will need more to restore my 47 fleetline they way I would like.
I’m about to start on my paw paw 65 c10 he passed down to me , this stuff like this is what has scared me to start on it for years, out side on mine looks great but every one knows that not always true about underneath
Great gob! Is there inner roof replacement my 64 has rust and I’m not sure what to do
Thank you. There is a patch panel for the front section where it meets the windshield, but not a full inner roof panel. To my knowledge anyway. They only recently started producing the Big Back Window inner panel so I wouldn't be surprised if a roof panel is on the horizon. However I'm not aware of one, sorry to say.
Gonna have to do this with my 60. Except I’ve also got rot in the valley above the windshield. Outside is pretty rough but inside I can poke my finger through. I wonder how feasible it is to replace those 3 panels instead of trying to do patchwork. Also never touched a Mig welder in my life.
Any advice on something like this on firewall panels?
Solid job. This looks great. On something like this I’d probably use welds in conjunction with the adhesive. I heard some bad stories while I was in school and think that using just adhesive could be trouble. Really cool to see it being used I’ll very likely be using it in my restoration. Do you have a weld through primer in place/ do you worry about the small ish areas that may be bare?
Dave DiPetrillo there have been horror stories. I have heard of a few but the ones I’ve heard were very structural parts that were entirely bonded in. The only time I solely. One a part together is when it’s dissimilar materials. And even then I’ll usually add some rivets or screws for a mechanical hold.
As for the welded areas, I’ve never found a weld thru I like. They all cause issues and don’t etch in enough for my liking. These had epoxy right next to the welds, so much so that clamping squeezes the adhesive into the holes on a few of them. So I feel that the panel bond is doing a sufficient job around the welds. 👍🏻
👍
Show a shot of your Dad rolling his eyes when you are talking.
My Dad respects my knowledge and experience. Why would he roll his eyes at someone teaching him and others?
Is it possible to use 1/2 the panel adhesive now and the rest later like in a few weeks?
Yes. You can remove the mixing tip and reinstall the plug into the tube. Usually these come with 2 mixing tips. You need a new one every time you use the tube. So if it doesn't come with extras, buy them ahead of time. As it is a Two Part Epoxy technically you shouldn't have any issues with it hardening up in just a few weeks.
I often save unfinished tubes for small projects.
I love learning from your videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I am doing my first truck restoration and had a question for you. What do you feel the best way is to strip the paint from the cab? I have found rust in similar places to this video and want to make sure I am doing the job right. I am on a budget and don’t have the compressor to blast myself. What would you recommend?
Have you ever done one on a squarebody? I need to do mine but not sure where to start
You should’ve sprayed Rushmore on there it kills rust it’s a purple spray liquid
Are you referring to “Rust Mort” by SEM? We used POR-15s metal prep before applying the POR, which does the same thing. It is part of what I was referring to about proper preparation of a panel for POR that people often skip. I just didn’t really fit it into the video I guess.
Yeah I was talking about Rust mort my bad was a little fucked up last night
Hi what brand of roof skin ? Thank you so much
There is a actual paint that stops rust. Its sprays on looking like thin primer almost like etching paint. U spray it on panel other sections will stay as grey primer the rust turns purple the additives init actual stops rust from spreading
I need to do a real test with these products but it has to be a long term project. The thing is, rust isn’t skin deep. It’s inside the metal. Especially once it’s starts to flake even a little bit. So coating over it can’t stop it all. POR claims to do so by starving it of oxygen. Which makes sense if you work with the product but I still question it long term.
I’m not worried about stopping rust for a year or two, I’m worried about decades.
@@HotRodHippie yeah that's the only problem no one realy knows if anything actually works on stopping it with out cutting it out. U should do the test it would be most watched but expensive to do
@@nuggit7290 would be but useful information. I’ll try and figure out a testing methodology. 👍🏻👍🏻
Muratic acid, or vinager water mix will kill that rust
Should have done the big window mod while you had it open.
My Dad doesn’t want a Big Back Window. I tried like hell to get him to. It was the perfect time. I can’t see why, but he’s the only person I’ve ever met who prefers the small back window.
But very honestly, if I ever do a Big Back Window swap in the future? I’ll do a roof skin at the same time. Doing both would be far easier than doing just the Back Window and be a cleaner overall job.
I'll bet you could have skipped the welding. That panel bond would absolutely have held that skin on.