Thank you for making this video. The attention to detail and information that you provide is perfect. I’m getting ready to do this to my truck and this video is perfect
Great video! As a 40 year veteran of the auto body industry I appreciate your attention to detail and proper methods. There are so many hacks out there... I salute you sir..
Looks great. There are so many trucks out there where I think the drip rail seam sealer gets overlooked. Its the small details like this that sets your work apart. There's a pretty cool trick to use on the self leveling seam sealer. If any air bubbles show up you can wave a heat gun over it real quick and they magically disappear..... Great Work dude!
You've got the holy grale of trucks as far as I'm concerned, first of the style and sadly last of the small back window, I've had 3 67s and I kicked myself everytime I've sold them, keep up the great work it's looking sharp 👍
Love your videos, as a guy working on a truck for myself (first time) I appreciate you showing how and why things are done and the order in which they are do. Beautiful work. Thanks for teaching us.
Looks great ! I see this video is a few years old, I was just wondering what was that air powered sealer dispenser do I need that to put the sealer on ?
Did you use the first seam sealer for the vertical parts around the door since the other two will drip? Looks great, and thanks for taking the time to post this 👍
Yes I did. I also had the cab on a rotisserie later on and did a little more seam sealing on other areas. I could turn the cab upside down and do the underside of the drip rails. Made it turn out a little better. Thanks for watching!
nice vid, wondered how you cleaned and prep the inside of the rail where the roof and rail spot weld to gather. i need to get out rust that appears to be in the narrow part of the rail next to the shoulder that's created by the layering of metal that's been spot welded together within the rail. also there's an area in the drip rail where there's lead work done with a few wholes where the lead didn't take to the metal (my guess is it wasn't cleaned good enough). the lead work in the rail moves up a bit onto the roof (lead on the roof looks good), just a couple of spot in the rail where there's the problem. can i try to evening the lead in the rail (it's a bit globbie) and paint/seam seal over it? any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
This truck had been blasted clean and epoxied before I got it. I think they removed any lead they came across as well. Lead can be problematic so most times it is removed and the seam welded if needed or just seam sealer if it’s in an area not seen. As far as rust, blasting is usually the best way to get the surface stuff out. If it’s bad and has gotten between the seams and rotted then removing the bad areas and replacing the metal is what is needed. It may need a small patch, roof skin, or cab replacement. I would blast first and see what it looks like.
Seam seals came out great. I have a a small rusted out area on my drip rail. Would it be ok to put some tape under the drip rail and put a thin coat of small hair bondo-glass in my drip rail before seam sealing?
Sometimes that’s the only way if you’re not wanting to start replacing major panels and such. Evercoat Kitty Hair works well or sometimes panel bond adhesive can be used to glue in a small piece of metal if it will be under the seam sealer.
@@jameschuke4104 once the seam is blasted to get out any old seam sealer, paint, and rust, it is sprayed with epoxy. The epoxy provides the corrosion protection and adhesion to bare metal. Seam sealer can be applied at any point after this. Some seam sealers can be applied directly to bare metal and provide adequate corrosion protection themselves but I prefer over epoxy. The epoxy provides adequate corrosion protection without going all the way to the final paint layer so the seam sealer should be before final paint
@@peteman400I can’t remember how many I used all together on the project. I think one would do the drip rail but I’m sure I used more than that doing all the different seams everywhere.
I think you are right about only in 67. As far as which one is more popular I’m not sure. Personal preference I guess. Now that I’ve painted one of each, I like the large back window better. Less bodywork to do, lol.
Jim, Looking for advice on seam sealer tube size. Is it 200ml or 400ml? This is just for the drip rail, self leveling and heavy bodied. as their are 30+ feet of other places to cover, but I can't use the more expensive 3M product every place. Thanks very much for your sharing the 1967 C10 show truck to us or even me. Strange, after a quick lifetime of just fixing, now I am doing what they call a "Resto-Mod" with a 55 year old 6 cylinder farm truck into a basically stock EFI personal transportation vehicle, for myself. I have you to thank a lot of that! DK, Omaha. Retired ASE master, not a painter but have the tools.
The 200ml is what I use. I haven’t seen the larger tubes in a while so I’m not sure if they are still available. I think they only come with two mixing tips so you may want to get a few extra incase you have several seam sealer “sessions”. Good luck with the truck!
@@StoutCustom Thanks for the reply. They sell both sizes of caulking guns so that is why I had to ask. I have repaired body work on 6-7 car our family owned as my 4 kids learned to drive and my wife is still working on it. I had to work, but fixed cars. The autobody seamed to be self explanatory as dealer had body shops and had some good friends. I was lucky to stay real busy and stay late & work Saturdays when scheduled off, but it is hard to be the man and support everyone while my wife was a "Domestic Engineer". Also call house wife. I bought distressed vehicles from customers, fix them then drive to work for 6 or 7 years. Never quit a job without having another lined up. It is tough but you can remember, no cell, cable, computers or internet! If you wanted to know something, you find someone that will let you ask questions and pick their brains, learn. Boy how things have changed the last 20 years or more. I wish you continued success in 2022 and beyond, but I have back surgery #7 coming up. Spinal cord stimulator sounds sci-fi, but like a pacemaker, two electrodes are snaked up the space called epidural. Then a 6 day trial allows it to confuse pain signals. For me, this was all lumbar and worked as I gave it a 60-70% relief success of standing 6 foot 3 inches w/o a cain. They got permission and placed it under the muscle w/electrodes in same place, turned it on and the stimulation went down into my heels?! Everyone freaked! Well, like new paint falling on the floor while sitting still, I spoke softly but carried a big stick. Here we are, 8 months later after changes to setting and engineer with new software, they are going to move electrodes and wake me during surgery to ask where I feel the tingling! This time, a step they left out. With no copay. Humm! I lost a year, can't sleep, can't exercise and can't walk to my mailbox w/o a cain and it hurts. Enough, bad doo-doo happens! I watched you rotisserie build 9-12 times. You made this farm boy laugh with your choice editing! Thanks for that too Jim! I am trying to be optimistic. Don't gamble, never been East of Atlanta, GA. but I know where telephone poles come from or should. Worked for GM on contract thru Raytheon and sat in the front row when engineers spoke. Next 13 rows behind me where empty buy asked questions. I say, you are never to old to learn from the right people. I count you among them. Thanks. DK, Omaha. TMI I know. But thanks anyways. Did't mean to take your time as it is work, work and more work. Worker bee's don't get much time off. Hope you do!
@@deankay4434 things have certainly changed. Used to be a lot of mystery to anything you wanted to do. Yep, had to find the all knowing ones and ask a lot of questions. Now tons of information with a quick search from anywhere you have signal for a cell phone. Technology is amazing and hopefully it will get you back going again.
Would using just the first application of seam sealer be fine if I want a little thicker? I’m not restoring a classic I’m just redoing my work van. I’ve been getting drips of rain inside my cargo bay in a few spots so I’ll probably just redo the entire rail
No I did not use paint paddles. I used a set of not yet released to the public “Select” gymnosperm and angiosperm segments in various but specific dimensions soon to be available in kit form for the low low price of fourteen weekly payments of $19.95. Care to pre order ?
Thank you SBB for the kind words. Pricing is always different depending on condition of vehicle and desired outcome. In the end I find the final charge is “never enough”, lol.
@@StoutCustom I figured as much. You probably have a line of cars waiting to come into your garage with that level of detail. You should really be teaching at a technical college or something so pass this along. great work!
Great video and information as usual. I look forward to your new videos. I know you’re not taking on any new c10 paint projects but do you have any recommendations of a good paint and body shop in the north GA area? Thanks
@@StoutCustom chattanooga area. I was trying to avoid a larger collision facility as most are probably not looking to work on classic vehicles. Just looking for a respectable and honest paint and body shop.
Yes. It does run so I always tape off past where I want the seam sealer so it will catch overflow. It may run a little more or less depending on ambient air temp and may require a couple applications to get enough build. Thanks for watching!
@@StoutCustom Thank you! I watched your vid again yesterday just for the taping part, but sadly did not refresh my brain with the get the tape off before it dries part! Used high build self leveling in the front part of the driprail, but as you also stated it did not want to flow toward the front. Tried to aim more product in those gaps and by the time I went back to the beginning it had dried over my tape. Pulled off what tape I could, but by that time my nozzle was dry. At 70 degrees it seemed like I had 5 minutes tops. Had to mechanically dig out the tape with a razor blade and stick which of course left a mess and scratches in the epoxy primer. Worried too water might get in where I pulled back the sealer edge, but should still be contact below that. Tried to be faster doing the sides and getting the tape off. It was better, but had a few "taffy pulls". This is not a show truck, just my own 1970 F250 that will be at stock ride height, so only really tall people will see my ugliness. 🙂
@@rudsaki dang sounds like you had fun with it, lol. Yeah I should have mentioned to practice where it’s not seen but heck it’s too expensive to just practice. Thanks for letting me know how it went. Next time im doing seam sealer again and making a video I will know which points to stress. Thanks again and thanks for watching!
I keep coming back to this video because it turned out so well. I am doing my roof and gutters and this advise is priceless. What urethane primer did you use? I saw the vp2050 you used first, but I didn’t catch the second urethane brand and part number. Also do you like sem better than 3M? And can you apply the seam sealer easily with a hand pumping gun vs an air powered gun? Thanks!
I used Global D8005 primer after the VP2050. SEM and 3M both have great products. I find the SEM gives me more of the look that I’m after with their seam sealers.With the 3M it was either too runny or not quite enough flow, at least with the products I used. The manual gun will apply just as well as the air assisted but the air assisted will spoil you if you ever use one, lol. Thanks for the questions and thanks for watching!
Yep. Usually on the bottom of a cab or if I need to duplicate a factory brushed looking seam somewhere. Works great in some areas and certain types can be wiped over with lacquer thinner on a gloved finger to smooth it out a bit more. Thanks for watching!
Great videos. Did you use VP2050 directly on the metal, or did you apply another product? I'm getting ready to take my square body down to metal and was wondering what to apply directly to the metal as I start body working it.
The truck was blasted to bare metal then Deltron DP40LF epoxy was put on it. After that I started doing filler work over the DP epoxy. Once the filler work was as close as I could get it, i primed it with the VP 2050. So the reason I do it this way is because bare steel should be primed immediately when the paint is stripped off. Once steel is exposed it can start to corrode very quickly. Epoxy adheres to steel very well and can be put directly on blasted steel. The VP 2050 is epoxy based and also sticks to bare steel well, but it is a high build product and has a limit to how much can be stacked up. So 2 coats of DP first for adhesion and corrosion protection. Then you have time to find the dents and do rust repair. Try to leave as much DP on as you can and work filler on top of it. As you block filler some bare metal will be exposed. Once it is as straight as you can get it, prime withVP2050 which will stick to bare metal, DP, and filler. Now you have a semi straight surface with a high build primer that gives you enough meat to block out imperfections. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@StoutCustom awesome. This is exactly the level of detail I was looking for. I didn't want to start any body work before I determined which products I was going to use. I'm basically doing a cab on restoration, and have done a 5/7 static drop on my 87 short bed. All the suspension work is done, and I'm going to start body working the fire wall before I put a new motor in.
Thanks for your videos there very helpful. I'm working on a 67 C10 now and was wondering the amount of the seam sealer you used? does one tube get it done or do I need more then one! Also what sand paper are you using is that Gorilla Gold?
There is a seam there that needs something that will flow into the cracks n crevices to seal out moisture and remain flexible to move with the two panels as they expand and contract. Bondo/filler doesn't do those jobs very well. It would crack, let in moisture, and cause the paint to fail/metal to rust. Good question and thanks for watching!
Thank you for making this video. The attention to detail and information that you provide is perfect. I’m getting ready to do this to my truck and this video is perfect
Hey Monte. Thanks for letting me know the video is helpful. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching!
Fine work for sure. Thanks for taking the time to make the content.
Thank you for watching!
Great video! As a 40 year veteran of the auto body industry I appreciate your attention to detail and proper methods. There are so many hacks out there... I salute you sir..
Thank you very much! I appreciate the complement. Thanks for watching!
Instablaster
It doesnt look bad at all. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Great job!!
Thank you!
Thanks bro for sharing
No problem. Thanks for watching!
Looks great. There are so many trucks out there where I think the drip rail seam sealer gets overlooked. Its the small details like this that sets your work apart.
There's a pretty cool trick to use on the self leveling seam sealer. If any air bubbles show up you can wave a heat gun over it real quick and they magically disappear.....
Great Work dude!
I like magic, lol. Thanks!
You've got the holy grale of trucks as far as I'm concerned, first of the style and sadly last of the small back window, I've had 3 67s and I kicked myself everytime I've sold them, keep up the great work it's looking sharp 👍
Yeah it’s a great truck. Not mine though belongs to a friend.
Thanks for the info. I'm doing a 70 Gmc C2500. Peace
Cool. Thanks for watching and good luck on your truck!
I need one of those fancy pneumatic seam sealer guns!
EVERYBODY needs one of those fancy pneumatic seam sealer guns. They're awesome!
Good information.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Love your videos, as a guy working on a truck for myself (first time) I appreciate you showing how and why things are done and the order in which they are do. Beautiful work. Thanks for teaching us.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Awsome!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
I enjoy the videos, I’m starting work on a 70!!!!
Good deal! Best of luck on the truck and thanks for watching!
Great job as usual
Thank you!
Another great video. I appreciate you showing what products you use and your opinions on them. That helps me on deciding what to use
No problem! Thanks again for watching!
I see you are using the Diget 100 smoothing tool, best tool ever
Yep, lol. Best tool ever!
You should make a video on showing what products you use like sand paper etc. good job I’m working on a 84 gmc
I’ll try to put it in one shortly. Thanks for watching and good luck with your gmc!
Excellent idea. Plus I want to know all about the magic sanding sticks.
Another great video! Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge of bodywork and paintwork.
Glad you enjoyed it
Looks great ! I see this video is a few years old, I was just wondering what was that air powered sealer dispenser do I need that to put the sealer on ?
There are manual and pneumatic guns for these seam sealers. Both will work, just a little easier to be consistent with the pneumatic.
Did you use the first seam sealer for the vertical parts around the door since the other two will drip? Looks great, and thanks for taking the time to post this 👍
Yes I did. I also had the cab on a rotisserie later on and did a little more seam sealing on other areas. I could turn the cab upside down and do the underside of the drip rails. Made it turn out a little better. Thanks for watching!
nice vid, wondered how you cleaned and prep the inside of the rail where the roof and rail spot weld to gather. i need to get out rust that appears to be in the narrow part of the rail next to the shoulder that's created by the layering of metal that's been spot welded together within the rail. also there's an area in the drip rail where there's lead work done with a few wholes where the lead didn't take to the metal (my guess is it wasn't cleaned good enough). the lead work in the rail moves up a bit onto the roof (lead on the roof looks good), just a couple of spot in the rail where there's the problem. can i try to evening the lead in the rail (it's a bit globbie) and paint/seam seal over it? any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
This truck had been blasted clean and epoxied before I got it. I think they removed any lead they came across as well. Lead can be problematic so most times it is removed and the seam welded if needed or just seam sealer if it’s in an area not seen. As far as rust, blasting is usually the best way to get the surface stuff out. If it’s bad and has gotten between the seams and rotted then removing the bad areas and replacing the metal is what is needed. It may need a small patch, roof skin, or cab replacement. I would blast first and see what it looks like.
Excellent job! Where do you buy that seem sealer?
You can check your local automotive paint supplier or there are some kinks in the video description to get it from Amazon. Thanks for watching!
Seam seals came out great. I have a a small rusted out area on my drip rail. Would it be ok to put some tape under the drip rail and put a thin coat of small hair bondo-glass in my drip rail before seam sealing?
Sometimes that’s the only way if you’re not wanting to start replacing major panels and such. Evercoat Kitty Hair works well or sometimes panel bond adhesive can be used to glue in a small piece of metal if it will be under the seam sealer.
Would you need to sand or prime I'm between seam sealer coats if I do a second layer of seam sealer?
Yes. Once the first coat has set, sand or scuff it then apply the next layer. No need to prime again. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching!
👍😎
Why not seam seal after painting then paint seam sealer seems to me without any protection under it would rust
@@jameschuke4104 once the seam is blasted to get out any old seam sealer, paint, and rust, it is sprayed with epoxy. The epoxy provides the corrosion protection and adhesion to bare metal. Seam sealer can be applied at any point after this. Some seam sealers can be applied directly to bare metal and provide adequate corrosion protection themselves but I prefer over epoxy. The epoxy provides adequate corrosion protection without going all the way to the final paint layer so the seam sealer should be before final paint
Did you use only one bottle of that High build self leveling??
@@peteman400I can’t remember how many I used all together on the project. I think one would do the drip rail but I’m sure I used more than that doing all the different seams everywhere.
Are the small window cabs popular? I think they only came out that one year 67 I believe
I think you are right about only in 67. As far as which one is more popular I’m not sure. Personal preference I guess. Now that I’ve painted one of each, I like the large back window better. Less bodywork to do, lol.
Great video. Did you do a video of putting the second, thinner seam sealer in it?
I think I did one called final drip rail seam sealer. Should be in the video list
@@StoutCustom ok ill check again. Great video. Thank you.
Jim, Looking for advice on seam sealer tube size. Is it 200ml or 400ml?
This is just for the drip rail, self leveling and heavy bodied. as their are 30+ feet of other places to cover, but I can't use the more expensive 3M product every place. Thanks very much for your sharing the 1967 C10 show truck to us or even me.
Strange, after a quick lifetime of just fixing, now I am doing what they call a "Resto-Mod" with a 55 year old 6 cylinder farm truck into a basically stock EFI personal transportation vehicle, for myself. I have you to thank a lot of that!
DK, Omaha. Retired ASE master, not a painter but have the tools.
The 200ml is what I use. I haven’t seen the larger tubes in a while so I’m not sure if they are still available. I think they only come with two mixing tips so you may want to get a few extra incase you have several seam sealer “sessions”. Good luck with the truck!
@@StoutCustom Thanks for the reply. They sell both sizes of caulking guns so that is why I had to ask.
I have repaired body work on 6-7 car our family owned as my 4 kids learned to drive and my wife is still working on it. I had to work, but fixed cars. The autobody seamed to be self explanatory as dealer had body shops and had some good friends. I was lucky to stay real busy and stay late & work Saturdays when scheduled off, but it is hard to be the man and support everyone while my wife was a "Domestic Engineer". Also call house wife. I bought distressed vehicles from customers, fix them then drive to work for 6 or 7 years. Never quit a job without having another lined up. It is tough but you can remember, no cell, cable, computers or internet! If you wanted to know something, you find someone that will let you ask questions and pick their brains, learn. Boy how things have changed the last 20 years or more.
I wish you continued success in 2022 and beyond, but I have back surgery #7 coming up. Spinal cord stimulator sounds sci-fi, but like a pacemaker, two electrodes are snaked up the space called epidural. Then a 6 day trial allows it to confuse pain signals. For me, this was all lumbar and worked as I gave it a 60-70% relief success of standing 6 foot 3 inches w/o a cain. They got permission and placed it under the muscle w/electrodes in same place, turned it on and the stimulation went down into my heels?! Everyone freaked!
Well, like new paint falling on the floor while sitting still, I spoke softly but carried a big stick.
Here we are, 8 months later after changes to setting and engineer with new software, they are going to move electrodes and wake me during surgery to ask where I feel the tingling! This time, a step they left out. With no copay. Humm!
I lost a year, can't sleep, can't exercise and can't walk to my mailbox w/o a cain and it hurts.
Enough, bad doo-doo happens!
I watched you rotisserie build 9-12 times. You made this farm boy laugh with your choice editing!
Thanks for that too Jim! I am trying to be optimistic. Don't gamble, never been East of Atlanta, GA. but I know where telephone poles come from or should. Worked for GM on contract thru Raytheon and sat in the front row when engineers spoke. Next 13 rows behind me where empty buy asked questions. I say, you are never to old to learn from the right people. I count you among them. Thanks. DK, Omaha.
TMI I know. But thanks anyways. Did't mean to take your time as it is work, work and more work. Worker bee's don't get much time off. Hope you do!
@@deankay4434 things have certainly changed. Used to be a lot of mystery to anything you wanted to do. Yep, had to find the all knowing ones and ask a lot of questions. Now tons of information with a quick search from anywhere you have signal for a cell phone.
Technology is amazing and hopefully it will get you back going again.
Would using just the first application of seam sealer be fine if I want a little thicker? I’m not restoring a classic I’m just redoing my work van. I’ve been getting drips of rain inside my cargo bay in a few spots so I’ll probably just redo the entire rail
Yes. That would be fine. The second application is mainly just to get it smoother and looking better. Thanks for watching!
Did you block this whole truck with a paint stick? Have not seen you bust out the $750 Mr Fancy acrylic blocking set that Youfacegram says you need.
No I did not use paint paddles. I used a set of not yet released to the public “Select” gymnosperm and angiosperm segments in various but specific dimensions soon to be available in kit form for the low low price of fourteen weekly payments of $19.95. Care to pre order ?
What do you charge for a paint job? Your an artist on paint work. Unreal time and detail taken on every aspect of the bodywork.
Thank you SBB for the kind words. Pricing is always different depending on condition of vehicle and desired outcome. In the end I find the final charge is “never enough”, lol.
@@StoutCustom I figured as much. You probably have a line of cars waiting to come into your garage with that level of detail. You should really be teaching at a technical college or something so pass this along. great work!
😊
Thanks for watching!
Great video and information as usual. I look forward to your new videos. I know you’re not taking on any new c10 paint projects but do you have any recommendations of a good paint and body shop in the north GA area? Thanks
There are lots of shops but most that I know of only do collision. Where are you located?
@@StoutCustom chattanooga area. I was trying to avoid a larger collision facility as most are probably not looking to work on classic vehicles. Just looking for a respectable and honest paint and body shop.
not gonna lie, i used flex seal liquid, because it came in white. which was the same color as my roof. but im a hack lol
If it works it works, lol
The high build self leveling was slow enough to use on the near vertical drip rail sections?
Yes. It does run so I always tape off past where I want the seam sealer so it will catch overflow. It may run a little more or less depending on ambient air temp and may require a couple applications to get enough build. Thanks for watching!
@@StoutCustom Thank you!
I watched your vid again yesterday just for the taping part, but sadly did not refresh my brain with the get the tape off before it dries part! Used high build self leveling in the front part of the driprail, but as you also stated it did not want to flow toward the front. Tried to aim more product in those gaps and by the time I went back to the beginning it had dried over my tape. Pulled off what tape I could, but by that time my nozzle was dry. At 70 degrees it seemed like I had 5 minutes tops.
Had to mechanically dig out the tape with a razor blade and stick which of course left a mess and scratches in the epoxy primer. Worried too water might get in where I pulled back the sealer edge, but should still be contact below that.
Tried to be faster doing the sides and getting the tape off. It was better, but had a few "taffy pulls".
This is not a show truck, just my own 1970 F250 that will be at stock ride height, so only really tall people will see my ugliness. 🙂
@@rudsaki dang sounds like you had fun with it, lol. Yeah I should have mentioned to practice where it’s not seen but heck it’s too expensive to just practice. Thanks for letting me know how it went. Next time im doing seam sealer again and making a video I will know which points to stress. Thanks again and thanks for watching!
I keep coming back to this video because it turned out so well. I am doing my roof and gutters and this advise is priceless. What urethane primer did you use? I saw the vp2050 you used first, but I didn’t catch the second urethane brand and part number. Also do you like sem better than 3M? And can you apply the seam sealer easily with a hand pumping gun vs an air powered gun? Thanks!
I used Global D8005 primer after the VP2050. SEM and 3M both have great products. I find the SEM gives me more of the look that I’m after with their seam sealers.With the 3M it was either too runny or not quite enough flow, at least with the products I used. The manual gun will apply just as well as the air assisted but the air assisted will spoil you if you ever use one, lol. Thanks for the questions and thanks for watching!
👍🏾👍🏾
Any particular masking tape you like to use for this job?
Any good quality tape but I usually use the 3M yellow 6652 I believe. American makes some good tape as well.
@@StoutCustom Awesome, thanks for the feedback! :)
great video do you ever use the brushable seam sealer?
Yep. Usually on the bottom of a cab or if I need to duplicate a factory brushed looking seam somewhere. Works great in some areas and certain types can be wiped over with lacquer thinner on a gloved finger to smooth it out a bit more. Thanks for watching!
Great videos. Did you use VP2050 directly on the metal, or did you apply another product? I'm getting ready to take my square body down to metal and was wondering what to apply directly to the metal as I start body working it.
The truck was blasted to bare metal then Deltron DP40LF epoxy was put on it. After that I started doing filler work over the DP epoxy. Once the filler work was as close as I could get it, i primed it with the VP 2050. So the reason I do it this way is because bare steel should be primed immediately when the paint is stripped off. Once steel is exposed it can start to corrode very quickly. Epoxy adheres to steel very well and can be put directly on blasted steel. The VP 2050 is epoxy based and also sticks to bare steel well, but it is a high build product and has a limit to how much can be stacked up. So 2 coats of DP first for adhesion and corrosion protection. Then you have time to find the dents and do rust repair. Try to leave as much DP on as you can and work filler on top of it. As you block filler some bare metal will be exposed. Once it is as straight as you can get it, prime withVP2050 which will stick to bare metal, DP, and filler. Now you have a semi straight surface with a high build primer that gives you enough meat to block out imperfections. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@StoutCustom awesome. This is exactly the level of detail I was looking for. I didn't want to start any body work before I determined which products I was going to use. I'm basically doing a cab on restoration, and have done a 5/7 static drop on my 87 short bed. All the suspension work is done, and I'm going to start body working the fire wall before I put a new motor in.
@@Brian-tg8ye cool project. Good luck with it. I’m sure it’s going to turn out great. 👍
Thanks for your videos there very helpful. I'm working on a 67 C10 now and was wondering the amount of the seam sealer you used? does one tube get it done or do I need more then one! Also what sand paper are you using is that Gorilla Gold?
No problem and yes one tube did the drip rail for me. As far as paper, i mainly use Mirka gold or their q silver. Thanks for watching!
‘67 small window?
Yessir
Why seam sealer and not bondo?
There is a seam there that needs something that will flow into the cracks n crevices to seal out moisture and remain flexible to move with the two panels as they expand and contract. Bondo/filler doesn't do those jobs very well. It would crack, let in moisture, and cause the paint to fail/metal to rust. Good question and thanks for watching!