I was waiting for the camera to zoom out of him welding & then him look at the camera & say “Another reason I don’t wear a welding helmet is because I like to see what I’m doing” 😂🙌🏻
good job. For those who wish to restore classic cars. There is one thing to know : to be definitively efficient against rust, you should put grease everywhere. grease is the only thing very efficient against rust. put grease between metal and carpet, inside door, behind metallic bumper, under the vehicle, behind the repairs you can make (everywhere inside the body - hidden erea - instead of using paint), hollow areas (necessarily hidden, so no need to be aesthetic). For rear wings unreachable with a paintbrush, use an extender and poor old oil everywhere each year. rust always comes from the inside and welds. Handyman Experience - 35 years. From france
Definitely one of the best body repair vids I have ever seen. Sufficient detail, but not two hours long. Your knowledge and ability to convey to the watcher is excellent! Great!
43 years experience here. Good tips and advise. I would like to share a tip I use in the rain gutter. Personally I would never use body filler as a seam sealer. It's nature is to absorb moisture more than repel it. I use a good primer, preferably epoxy first. Then a product made by SEM. It's a flowing, two part urethane seam sealer. When set it's very firm and won't move if you were to buff around it. It looks great too.
I'm gonna have to use the entire panel too...didn't really want to cut the whole roof off, but I can see that's a good opportunity to get rid of any unseen rust that might show up later on...awesome video on this specific repair...🖖🏿😎👍🏿
It's crazy I found this video! I'm a mechanic and not a body man. I have done a couple quarter panels when I was much younger for my friends and then sent them to a body shop to complete the jobs. I have also painted a couple cars way back using Lacquer and one using Imron. I own a daily driven 69 C10 since 1988 with over 500K on it. That's the one I sprayed Imron in 1989 and it lost it's shine sometime back in 2010. I just retired and I'm looking it over to do a repaint and I have the rust in the right corner exactly where you show it in this video. I saw this about four years ago and it just festered and festered because I've been putting it off, just like you mentioned and now it has the tiny paint bubbles near the left sun visor pivot point. I couldn't figure out how to weld the roof back onto the rear portion of the cab as they do it originally. I was thinking I would buy the lower inside piece and the upper roof panel and cut them in sections and use only what I needed. I love the idea replacing the entire panel, welding the outside seam and smoothing it off just the way you did it. I actually have both of those panels on my wish list on my Brothers account for about three years when I first saw them available. I need to make some room in the garage and get started. Thumbs up to you Dave and thank you & Brothers & Holley for making and showing this video! EDIT: Is there any issues with using Dynamat for noise reduction? I mean I already have some but I recently moved to Southern Nevada and I'm not sure if how it handles the heat. Also, Brothers is under Holley now so do I have to open a new account?
Taking in all the information I can before starting my 62 C10 project! I've done it before, but not the way the professionals do it, aka, correctly means easier since it's done right by following outlined steps, so these videos are very helpful! Thanks!
Old school...Love it. Been a long time since I did any metal work, but seeing you do this reminds me of how important people like you are, in the current throw away world. Keep bringing the great vid.'s
My parents had both a '54 Chevy and '65 Chevy truck that had many of the issues covered in these videos. They are long gone but I find it interesting to watch how they could be repaired. Great thorough videos!
I'm glad this popped up randomly because I have this exact problem on my 85 dodge, thank you so much, hopefully i can finally learn how to fix it Nevermind nobody makes patch panels for dodges 😭
Buying a 67-72 C10 in decent shape for a classic truck project for $3,000 and up. Buying a number of patch panels from Brothers $300 and up. Having Dave come over and cut, fit, fabricate and weld in - Priceless (Tech Note; at 8:52 the tool terminology “Poky Thing” is a real tool) Please note to remove door & back glass before welding or cover with a fiberglass welders blanket. Check with Brothers on POR small kits to coat top of inner panel prior to welding and note any fire hazard list on cans & kit. Allow to dry for a week or so reduces this chance of thermal event. Use baking soda and shop air in mirror holes or dome lamp. Cover with aluminum tape to eliminate oxygen entering this 5/16” cavity between skins. Always use a buddy system when welding to watch for this or other dangers as sparks love britches.
Started removing my roof on 72 c10 shortbed. Your video removed all fear of attempting repair. I have to replace full inner and outer roof panels, front drip rail, right and left drip rail. Top of pillers need reworked to attach to new roof.
Thanks David I’m going to purchase a 1970 C10 step side next week and it has “ minor rusting “ 🤣 Its the exact same color as the one you were working on
I just bought a 73 F100 and have to do the same thing. I live in Northwestern Arizona but the truck originally came from Northern New Mexico and it wasn't taken very good care of. The engine and tranny need to be rebuilt but it has a 300 Inline 6 so I'm not rebuilding it I'm just going to replace it.
Just the video i needed to see Only if they made a roof skin with the raised lights I have a nice 72 super Cheyenne i need to replace inner and outer roof skin
Heat is a bad thing but what everyone forgets is that weld shrinks and pulls the metal together i found that's the biggest reason metal distorts in warps
When cutting long lap lines on patch panels cut the two installed pieces at the same time at a 45 degree angle instead of at 90. Then there is no gap and they fit perfectly to each other.
"Heat is your enemy!"......I agree. When tack welding, can you use an air hose to cool as soon as you weld it? I have some sheet metal to replace on a 83 C10. Thanks for the VERY informative videos.
This is interesting, I have the same kind of truck that has the rust all the way across the top inside layer worse than this one. I was planning on cutting out the inside layer, thinking that was the most logical approach since the outside layer is solid. My biggest concern was having to weld in the inside layer overhead. I just started this video but, I'm willing to bet 1$ usd, that this is why he cut the top outer layer instead of the inside.
This came out around the time I got rid of my 69, and got a 95. The glove part makes me laugh. I know exactly what he's talking about on both parts. When people ask what I do for a living, they don't believe me because my hands are rough. I have to state I have hobbies that have nothing to do with my career. Also I am a very tactile person. So I have to feel everything while repairing.
Great job old man. Some advice from an older man….wear hearing protection. I now suffer from tinnitus and it will drive you nuts. Wear a mask when grinding, its not the iron particles, it is the abrasive wheel dust that will harm your lungs.
Man, I wish I had just bought both of these panels and replaced them. I welded in a bunch of small little pieces, but since I never took the roof skin off, who knows what I might have missed?
Inner roof panel will come out of the top without having to remove the braces. Drill out the spot welds all the way around. Lift the back first and it will slide out.
I agree with you on not wearing gloves... I don't either. But I recommend wearing ear plugs. even if they aren't tight, Because it only takes one percussion and your ears will be ringing the rest of your life. How do I know? Well my ears have been ringing for the past 30 years.
Question: Do you not weld the top over the the door sections? Awesome job! I need to redo my 69. It was restored once but chemicals from work ruined the paint and settled in the drip rail and completely rotted through the cab. I have a donor top. And I'm contemplating just cutting the pillars because of the amount of damage. Thank you greatly for all of tips. Also I have done rust cut out on my land cruiser. But I had to make my own patch pieces and weld them in with a stick welder. This was about 30 years ago. I didn't own a wire feed welder as I do now.
I'm trying to track down the inner visor/ upper internal windshield piece for a 1963 C10; is that available on the holley site? Having trouble finding it.
Hey Dave I have a 69 Chevy g10 van I’m workin on here. The roof is mint yet I have two spots that are oil caning. Do you have any tips to fix that ? I know in a oil caning situation a person should heat it - bang a low spot in it- cool the steel - then use filler to compensate the low spot. I was wondering if there was any other ways I’d hate to bang a low spot in a other wise perfect roof. Any help is greatly appreciated. Have a great day !
We would typically suggest you cut it out and replace the bad metal with good. It really depends on the look you're going for overall. Like you said, a good bodyman could knock it down and fill it for strength, but that isn't going to cure the root of the problem.
I’m in the central Coast but it ain’t nothing to get a trailer over there to tell you that.Santa Maria to be Exact . What would be the cost to repair rust on my truck the cab only.??
@@ronquillofrank8403 Call the shop and ask for the phone number where you can text pictures to. If we get some photos, maybe we can determine if there are projects we need videos for. Call 800-977-2767 and ask for Jaz.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV so I am about to have to go through this with my 72 Cheyenne. The brace bar that runs across the top of the windshield, the one you said they didn’t make yet. What do if i do if near the driver side there is a 1 inch x1 inch hole rusted right there? You think you guys will get that piece? I wish you would show the second part of this video. I have had several body shops try and talk me into panel bonding that back roof section. I like the idea of welding it much better but want to keep that original seem. I don’t want it to look like any work has been done on it. What are the alternatives?
@@jordangraham2942 Panel bonding works great and you can keep the original body line. Take a look at our video where we did a big window conversion on a 60-66 truck, we used panel bond in that application. What do you mean you wish we would show the 2nd part of this video? This video is complete start to finish.
Irony = rain gutter perimeter design causes the rust from standing water, no wonder the square bodies were gutterless up front and door window gutters were only a screw in option
Just wondering, if you get the rear seam tacked in as you showed, could you clamp then transition to clecos before doing the rest of the welding? I have 50 clecos but I don’t have 50 welding clamps…
Yeah, Clecos would work on most of the areas that have overlap, but a lot of this on the inner panel is butt welded. Clecos would be pretty good for re-attaching the outer roof panel and doing the seem across the front. We're sure you could get creative, there's plenty of ways to skin a cat.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV I was thinking of the roof reinstall which has overlap. Not so useful for butt welds. I do like Fitzee’s 45° cutoff wheel technique for butt welds though. Lots to learn here!
We suspect that the expanding foam may put too much pressure on the inner panel and pop it outwards. It's easy to use a sound deadener in there, and it does it's job well, so doing something else would be an experiment.
Volkswagen did that on their beetles from '71 with flow ventilation. There was a crescent shaped vent behind the rear window; they shot expansive foam in that area. It holds moisture and rots the panel. Big problem with many bugs.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV I thought some of the square body had liners and not the metal liner? Basically was curious when i go to do the interior if i could remove that metal liner and install a fabric instead. Get rid of some of the tin noise.
@@turboflush It's possible that some of the lower end trucks came outfitted differently than the higher end trucks. there were plenty of variances from model to model.
Hey dave, I don't have a brothers book, but would you guys sell the inner roof panel for a 1966 c10 ? My younger sons truck has some rust damage inside at the visor on the drivers side ! Thanks !
I purchased a 1975 k20 and there seems to be some surface rust on the top of the cab that’s not so worrisome , but when I open the door the inside door frame is pretty scaly , any ideas ?
I was waiting for the camera to zoom out of him welding & then him look at the camera & say “Another reason I don’t wear a welding helmet is because I like to see what I’m doing” 😂🙌🏻
You’re the Fn Chuck Norris of body work! Love the vids!
Thanks for watching!
Dave is the best restorer on youtube period.
We appreciate the kudos!
I cant believe these videos are free. Master class stuff. 👏👏👏
Thanks man!
I don’t know why, but I feel like this project has put some age on this man😂
Remember: Heat is your enemy, your nemesis, your foe, your opponent.
good job. For those who wish to restore classic cars. There is one thing to know : to be definitively efficient against rust, you should put grease everywhere. grease is the only thing very efficient against rust. put grease between metal and carpet, inside door, behind metallic bumper, under the vehicle, behind the repairs you can make (everywhere inside the body - hidden erea - instead of using paint), hollow areas (necessarily hidden, so no need to be aesthetic). For rear wings unreachable with a paintbrush, use an extender and poor old oil everywhere each year. rust always comes from the inside and welds. Handyman Experience - 35 years. From france
Played 4:00 to 4:05 like six times. Hell yea, there's a price to pay for everything, you've earned that right to comment.
Definitely one of the best body repair vids I have ever seen. Sufficient detail, but not two hours long. Your knowledge and ability to convey to the watcher is excellent! Great!
Awesome work Dave & Brothers, love what you do to keep the restoration craft alive!
Thanks!
I wish I had an uncle or brother in law in my family like this dude.
100% agree!
I'm almost educated enough to try and cut up my truck now ... thanks
Thanks David. I like the way you use things for tools you don't have handy. That's me. Thank you for your time.
Thanks for watching!
Your an amazing talent watching your videos has help me do metal work I would have never attempted thanks for the great videos
Glad to hear it, thanks for watching!
43 years experience here. Good tips and advise.
I would like to share a tip I use in the rain gutter. Personally I would never use body filler as a seam sealer. It's nature is to absorb moisture more than repel it. I use a good primer, preferably epoxy first. Then a product made by SEM. It's a flowing, two part urethane seam sealer. When set it's very firm and won't move if you were to buff around it. It looks great too.
Excellent tip, thank you!
I could have used your videos 10 years ago. A lot of work that could have been done better. Thank for the videos!
Your attention to the cutting and welding is spot on that makes for a better fit and finish.
I'm gonna have to use the entire panel too...didn't really want to cut the whole roof off, but I can see that's a good opportunity to get rid of any unseen rust that might show up later on...awesome video on this specific repair...🖖🏿😎👍🏿
Good teacher! Nice work. That is a part of the cab quite a few guys cringe on doing.
Such an awesome video! Love watching the content that David is putting out.
Thank you Dave .loved that vid .great stuff.👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Our pleasure!
Another great video, I learned a lot in the last 41 minutes.👍
It's crazy I found this video!
I'm a mechanic and not a body man. I have done a couple quarter panels when I was much younger for my friends and then sent them to a body shop to complete the jobs. I have also painted a couple cars way back using Lacquer and one using Imron. I own a daily driven 69 C10 since 1988 with over 500K on it. That's the one I sprayed Imron in 1989 and it lost it's shine sometime back in 2010. I just retired and I'm looking it over to do a repaint and I have the rust in the right corner exactly where you show it in this video. I saw this about four years ago and it just festered and festered because I've been putting it off, just like you mentioned and now it has the tiny paint bubbles near the left sun visor pivot point. I couldn't figure out how to weld the roof back onto the rear portion of the cab as they do it originally. I was thinking I would buy the lower inside piece and the upper roof panel and cut them in sections and use only what I needed. I love the idea replacing the entire panel, welding the outside seam and smoothing it off just the way you did it. I actually have both of those panels on my wish list on my Brothers account for about three years when I first saw them available. I need to make some room in the garage and get started.
Thumbs up to you Dave and thank you & Brothers & Holley for making and showing this video!
EDIT: Is there any issues with using Dynamat for noise reduction? I mean I already have some but I recently moved to Southern Nevada and I'm not sure if how it handles the heat.
Also, Brothers is under Holley now so do I have to open a new account?
Thanks for the comment and for watching!
Taking in all the information I can before starting my 62 C10 project! I've done it before, but not the way the professionals do it, aka, correctly means easier since it's done right by following outlined steps, so these videos are very helpful! Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Old school...Love it. Been a long time since I did any metal work, but seeing you do this reminds me of how important people like you are, in the current throw away world. Keep bringing the great vid.'s
Thank you, and thanks for watching!
Great! I need to do this to my truck
Great video DAVE, need to do this very thing on our youngest sons 66C10 to fix some rust over drivers sun visor inside ! Thanks DAVE ! 👍🏻
I need this done to mine!
My parents had both a '54 Chevy and '65 Chevy truck that had many of the issues covered in these videos. They are long gone but I find it interesting to watch how they could be repaired. Great thorough videos!
Thanks for watching!
I'm glad this popped up randomly because I have this exact problem on my 85 dodge, thank you so much, hopefully i can finally learn how to fix it
Nevermind nobody makes patch panels for dodges 😭
You guys are awesome, I just bought a 69 c20, thank you for the motivation and tips to complete my build.
Our pleasure!
Cool video great info for when I get my 68 into body and paint 🎨
Buying a 67-72 C10 in decent shape for a classic truck project for $3,000 and up.
Buying a number of patch panels from Brothers $300 and up.
Having Dave come over and cut, fit, fabricate and weld in - Priceless
(Tech Note; at 8:52 the tool terminology “Poky Thing” is a real tool)
Please note to remove door & back glass before welding or cover with a fiberglass welders blanket. Check with Brothers on POR small kits to coat top of inner panel prior to welding and note any fire hazard list on cans & kit. Allow to dry for a week or so reduces this chance of thermal event. Use baking soda and shop air in mirror holes or dome lamp. Cover with aluminum tape to eliminate oxygen entering this 5/16” cavity between skins. Always use a buddy system when welding to watch for this or other dangers as sparks love britches.
Started removing my roof on 72 c10 shortbed. Your video removed all fear of attempting repair. I have to replace full inner and outer roof panels, front drip rail, right and left drip rail. Top of pillers need reworked to attach to new roof.
To bad I can't attach pics.
Nice job once again Dave....Thank you !!
Our pleasure!
Great video!
Thanks Jesse!
Nice work
Thanks David I’m going to purchase a 1970 C10 step side next week and it has “ minor rusting “ 🤣 Its the exact same color as the one you were working on
Have fun with your project!
super easy dude to follow along with
Excellent work!
I just bought a 73 F100 and have to do the same thing. I live in Northwestern Arizona but the truck originally came from Northern New Mexico and it wasn't taken very good care of. The engine and tranny need to be rebuilt but it has a 300 Inline 6 so I'm not rebuilding it I'm just going to replace it.
Just the video i needed to see
Only if they made a roof skin with the raised lights
I have a nice 72 super Cheyenne i need to replace inner and outer roof skin
Good video Dave thanks 👍
Our pleasure man!
Great job Dave !
Thanks for watching!
Great information!
Excellent video.
Thanks for watching!
you should do a video on shaving the drip rails!
Good idea!
I like to use copper backing plate for the larger gaps. Makes things so much easier. HFT has them “spoon”
Great tip! Thanks
This is outstanding. I wish I could find this replacement sheet metal for the GM G van series, it's a common problem with them as well.
Someday!
great video! very informative.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I have cold beer,what time can you come by???
LOL!
very well explained one thing i would use seam sealer not Bondo
Heat is a bad thing but what everyone forgets is that weld shrinks and pulls the metal together i found that's the biggest reason metal distorts in warps
When cutting long lap lines on patch panels cut the two installed pieces at the same time at a 45 degree angle instead of at 90. Then there is no gap and they fit perfectly to each other.
Excellent tip!
I like Dave.
I sure wish was my friend so you can come assist me in my 65 c10 project...
"Heat is your enemy!"......I agree. When tack welding, can you use an air hose to cool as soon as you weld it? I have some sheet metal to replace on a 83 C10. Thanks for the VERY informative videos.
Hmmm.... we've never tried that but it would be worth a shot.
This dude is cool
This is interesting, I have the same kind of truck that has the rust all the way across the top inside layer worse than this one. I was planning on cutting out the inside layer, thinking that was the most logical approach since the outside layer is solid. My biggest concern was having to weld in the inside layer overhead. I just started this video but, I'm willing to bet 1$ usd, that this is why he cut the top outer layer instead of the inside.
This came out around the time I got rid of my 69, and got a 95.
The glove part makes me laugh. I know exactly what he's talking about on both parts. When people ask what I do for a living, they don't believe me because my hands are rough. I have to state I have hobbies that have nothing to do with my career. Also I am a very tactile person. So I have to feel everything while repairing.
Great job old man. Some advice from an older man….wear hearing protection. I now suffer from tinnitus and it will drive you nuts. Wear a mask when grinding, its not the iron particles, it is the abrasive wheel dust that will harm your lungs.
Please do one on the next Generation truck 73-87. I have rust on the 2 front corner post and the back seam.
Man, I wish I had just bought both of these panels and replaced them. I welded in a bunch of small little pieces, but since I never took the roof skin off, who knows what I might have missed?
You can always redo it if it goes bad again. hopefully that will be a long time from now!
You can use a blow gun on the airhose to help cool the metal.
Inner roof panel will come out of the top without having to remove the braces. Drill out the spot welds all the way around. Lift the back first and it will slide out.
I cant find the upper door jamb patch for my 71 c10 anywhere. Any ideas?
Edit: and then i saw the part of the video where you address that! Lol
I find that a 5/16 drill bit works better than a spot weld cutter ...
🔥🔥🔥
Does Brothers have a video of the upper A-Pillars being repaired ?
I agree with you on not wearing gloves... I don't either. But I recommend wearing ear plugs. even if they aren't tight, Because it only takes one percussion and your ears will be ringing the rest of your life. How do I know? Well my ears have been ringing for the past 30 years.
Question: Do you not weld the top over the the door sections? Awesome job! I need to redo my 69. It was restored once but chemicals from work ruined the paint and settled in the drip rail and completely rotted through the cab. I have a donor top. And I'm contemplating just cutting the pillars because of the amount of damage. Thank you greatly for all of tips. Also I have done rust cut out on my land cruiser. But I had to make my own patch pieces and weld them in with a stick welder. This was about 30 years ago. I didn't own a wire feed welder as I do now.
Yes, we welded around the sides of the roof panel too.
I'm trying to track down the inner visor/ upper internal windshield piece for a 1963 C10; is that available on the holley site? Having trouble finding it.
How about using some 3m 8115 panel bond adhesive in the drip rail channel ......
You could do that, there's more than one way to skin a cat!
If you do this it will be a little bit hard! I interpret that as start over. Sure wish you were closer to Michigan.
Can u do all the work on my truck man u nake it look easy..
Hey Dave I have a 69 Chevy g10 van I’m workin on here. The roof is mint yet I have two spots that are oil caning. Do you have any tips to fix that ? I know in a oil caning situation a person should heat it - bang a low spot in it- cool the steel - then use filler to compensate the low spot. I was wondering if there was any other ways I’d hate to bang a low spot in a other wise perfect roof. Any help is greatly appreciated. Have a great day !
We would typically suggest you cut it out and replace the bad metal with good. It really depends on the look you're going for overall. Like you said, a good bodyman could knock it down and fill it for strength, but that isn't going to cure the root of the problem.
@30:20 how did you fill in the gap between the patch panel and old metal ? did you just weld more ?
Does Dave have a video of replacing the full cab back panel on a 71 c-10?
Not at the moment.
Love your videos bro. Is there anyway I can send you my 62 c10 and you can use it as a repair truck on your videos lol great job
We're always looking for projects to cover here in the studio. If you live in SoCal we can definitely work something out.
I’m in the central Coast but it ain’t nothing to get a trailer over there to tell you that.Santa Maria to be Exact . What would be the cost to repair rust on my truck the cab only.??
@@ronquillofrank8403 Call the shop and ask for the phone number where you can text pictures to. If we get some photos, maybe we can determine if there are projects we need videos for. Call 800-977-2767 and ask for Jaz.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV so I am about to have to go through this with my 72 Cheyenne. The brace bar that runs across the top of the windshield, the one you said they didn’t make yet. What do if i do if near the driver side there is a 1 inch x1 inch hole rusted right there? You think you guys will get that piece?
I wish you would show the second part of this video.
I have had several body shops try and talk me into panel bonding that back roof section. I like the idea of welding it much better but want to keep that original seem. I don’t want it to look like any work has been done on it. What are the alternatives?
@@jordangraham2942 Panel bonding works great and you can keep the original body line. Take a look at our video where we did a big window conversion on a 60-66 truck, we used panel bond in that application.
What do you mean you wish we would show the 2nd part of this video? This video is complete start to finish.
May I ask where you get those patch panels? And are they available for the 78-79 f250 models? Thank you
Good job Dave. Is the 60-66 roof design similar?
Yes, very similar. We have a video where we replaced the outer skin on a 60-66 roof already, here's a link: th-cam.com/video/OXNL_Vup_XE/w-d-xo.html
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV Thanks!
Question what is the name of the goop they put in the valley to make it watertight
Do you have any videos of a cab on an 80s square body by the front glass and in cowl area?
Nothing right now, we'll put it on this list! Thanks for the suggestion!
Irony = rain gutter perimeter design causes the rust from standing water, no wonder the square bodies were gutterless up front and door window gutters were only a screw in option
Time is an excellent teacher.
should the brother truck have Roof Panel for 80's model chevy truck ..?
Yes we have that, here's a link: www.brotherstrucks.com/1973-87-CHEVY_GMC-ROOF-PANEL-SKIN/productinfo/ORPP087/
Just wondering, if you get the rear seam tacked in as you showed, could you clamp then transition to clecos before doing the rest of the welding? I have 50 clecos but I don’t have 50 welding clamps…
Yeah, Clecos would work on most of the areas that have overlap, but a lot of this on the inner panel is butt welded. Clecos would be pretty good for re-attaching the outer roof panel and doing the seem across the front. We're sure you could get creative, there's plenty of ways to skin a cat.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV I was thinking of the roof reinstall which has overlap. Not so useful for butt welds. I do like Fitzee’s 45° cutoff wheel technique for butt welds though. Lots to learn here!
@@bdugle1 Yeah Brian, Clecos would be great for the roof and the 1/8" or 3/16" holes would be great starters for Rosettes.
Mine is rusted above the windshield. It’s leaking inside the cab sadly
Question: would it be a bad idea to fill the sandwich with expanding foam?
We suspect that the expanding foam may put too much pressure on the inner panel and pop it outwards. It's easy to use a sound deadener in there, and it does it's job well, so doing something else would be an experiment.
Volkswagen did that on their beetles from '71 with flow ventilation. There was a crescent shaped vent behind the rear window; they shot expansive foam in that area. It holds moisture and rots the panel. Big problem with many bugs.
@@loumontcalm3500 Good info!
How much does a job like that generally cost if you have a shop do it?
Currently (2022) about $3000+
Were they all double skin? Or did some have a headliner. Is it more dependant on the year? My 53 has a liner my 82 has a metal 2nd skin.
The early trucks were different than the later trucks which is why your '53 has a cardboard liner.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV
I thought some of the square body had liners and not the metal liner?
Basically was curious when i go to do the interior if i could remove that metal liner and install a fabric instead. Get rid of some of the tin noise.
@@turboflush It's possible that some of the lower end trucks came outfitted differently than the higher end trucks. there were plenty of variances from model to model.
Where did you purchase the patch panels I actually need the repair the same exact thing on the same truck?
Everything in our videos comes from www.brotherstrucks.com. Links to products are normally in the video description.
Have would you go about it on a square body?
We'll have to do a video.
Stupid question here, but did anyone catch what type of welder he was using?
We use a Miller 120v Mig here in the studio.
Sweet !! thanks for the reply
Hey dave, I don't have a brothers book, but would you guys sell the inner roof panel for a 1966 c10 ? My younger sons truck has some rust damage inside at the visor on the drivers side ! Thanks !
We carry that part, check out our website at www.brotherstrucks.com
ALL RIGHT, 👍 thanks Dave & guy at brothers ! I'll check u guys out ! 👍
👍
I purchased a 1975 k20 and there seems to be some surface rust on the top of the cab that’s not so worrisome , but when I open the door the inside door frame is pretty scaly , any ideas ?
When you are ready, strip it down to metal and see what's going on. Once you can see the real problem then you can start to address a solution.
Family of mice ended up homeless 😢
Or remodeling 🤔
LOL
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV Great video. Very informative
@@vm722 Thanks!
What kinda rotisserie is that
Dave - if you cut your hand you will be side lined.
Just put a can of foam spray fiberglass bondo and you should be goood to goooo