I haven't used the POR15 Patch previously, but I will definitely be giving that a go on some future projects if I have some pinhole size sheet metal issues!! Thanks Joe!!
I love these sorts of fixes. Knowledge of options is so important. Sometimes we all make issues bigger than they need to be. Thanks Joe you just don’t know important these lil fixes mean to some of us or at least me lol. Have a great freaking day!!!!!
This video was very helpful, thank you. I have to do this where my rear seats were located in my 88 nissan pathfinder. This looks like a good way to do it and get on to something else. Now i know what to do, Thanks again for sharing.
What is the best alternative to POR 15 to use? It seems to be unavailable locally or on Amazon unfortunately, and there is so many other options I have no clue what to pick as a beginner to this sort of thing. I was able to find the fiberglass cloth roll, but not sure what to use to fill in the holes now. Great video and instructions, I feel way more confident about attempting this now just trying to figure out what I should be using since I can't get ahold of the POR 15. I just have three small holes I would like to patch that are big enough to be a problem, just like what you showed in the video.
Thank you for this video. I am in the process of restoring my Dad's old truck that I inherited and had thought of using the liquid POR 15 and then sealing with Fiberglass and Resin over top but I have always heard that Fiberglass and resin won't adhere to metal in the long run. The POR products while getting hard remain stable on metal. This is a great idea where Welding may not be an option or even needed when structurally the metal is still strong. I have areas on the truck, similar and maybe even not as bad as yours that I wouldn't feel safe welding and this looks like a viable option to me. Thanks for sharing this. I appreciate it.
I was just talking about this very same technique while filming today for my July 24 episode. - and I was asking people to not let their heads explode over it. . 😂 We did this kind of stuff in the body shops for years. It’s a great way to repair a little pinholes. I’ve never done it with por 15 I’ve always just done it with fiberglass resin. . But that’s a great thing you shared that I might try that on stitches. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks Bro.
Having done my own patch panels on floor pans I will say that this is definitely a viable alternative. I have not used this method but its something I will be willing to try though. You're totally right too, half of me hates this and the other half agrees with what you are doing, haha! Looks good man!
Cool stuff, I didn't know they made it, I've done that with resin before but you know how it runs and drips. This is much easier to use! Thanks for sharing Joe!
You're right about the windshield wiper shaft seals leaking rainwater down & causing rust.On my '65 it rusted out a major portion of the under dash metal (the big part the dash bolts into the car).I had to repair all that,it was a bunch of hard work.Also had to fix floor pan right where you are doing now. I grapfted in three different donor pieces (including the 4 speed hump.
Well you just made a video of the next step I need to do on the Dart!........ Only problem is I may have to use a much larger sheet of fiberglass...... Do they make that POR Patch in one gallon cans? Great Video Joe!!
I wouldn't hesitate to use that for small areas. I plug welded a left floorpan in my '83 Mustang GT due to rust through at the seat mount from a leaking t-top. Used seam sealer then POR-15 on the whole floor afterwards.....it's solid now. It was alot of work cutting out the old floorpan and all.
If you were going to do that you should have used POR 15 on the hole floor first then Don that patch that way it ensures that there's no rust not covered. I have done that before just to see how it would work for a temporary fix until I could replace the part and it worked perfectly. But I rather replace the part for a true fix. And fiber glass and Resin doesn't even slow rust down. It just made it hard so you think it's fixed but the rust keeps eating away at it until the fiber glass can't hang on anymore. And I know this because I have done body work for over 21 years
Thanks for sharing Gary. This one will work well in the application. I’ve done it both ways. I absolutely prefer encapsulator to POR15. Fewer steps and good durability.
Nice work man. The two videos sure show how a fella can make a beautiful clean underside. Great job. Yeah, I don't worry about pinholes at all. I'd have cut the rusty pan sections out and patch welded it but here in Alberta, the winters are harsh and you just gotta cut it out. The smaller pinholes in the back, I'd have repaired same as you. A sealer after neutralize the rust and some undercoating. Great job again Joe🤘🏼
@@JustMoparJoe oh I definitely will. I enjoy most of the por15 products on a regular basis. They do exactly what they advertise and I have not been let down yet.
Nice work Joe. That will work. Looks very good. Weigh out the cost of the POR patch vs metal replacement. Works good. May last a very long time. It took 57 years to get that bad. I would say it did pretty well. Great content. The POR school with JustMoparJoe. Take care, Ed.
That stuff looks pretty good. 3 M makes some stuff too. It's not very high. Just like 35 bucks probably enough to do two floors. If it's bad probably buy the factory repair panels and glue them in. You could make it where you never see the seams or edges.
I'm on the 50/50 side, it started out looking like a hack job, but in reality it's not at all a bad fix if you watch to the end. You are correct in that there are far worse off cars out there driving around. I wouldn't hesitate to try the method, after all, it's not structural.
And if you want to replace it in a year, take a hammer and chisel and try to get it up! Or just cut out around it. You and I both know it’s hard to weld to rust. That would mean this would need at least a 2’x2’ patch.
I like it , I'll use it for some pin holes in my trunk floor , by the way the inner wheel wells were moved in and i removed the outer wells and added metal to get me close to the quarter panels then i closed the gap with fiberglass mat and resin and it works great !
Awesome! My dart sport had a 2’x2’ sheet of fiberglass over the passenger side floor pan. I was mad about it at the time, but maybe it was the best they could do at the time. Definitely an easy one to replace if need be. I had to take a floor Jack and block of wood to remove it!
that patch will work for a long time, it looks good joe.did you say the owner of this car is from the houston area,thats where im from maybe i will see it in person one day.its looking real good
I agree John. Cutting, fitting, and welding is the best option. But for a small spot, on this 4 door car, in a near perfect factory interior, with weld spatter hitting the glasses, and possibly hitting the new paint: I didn’t want to chance it. Think about the guy at home who wants to get his car on the road, but can’t afford a welder, or who is too weak to cut and shape metal. This is a perfect solution for them. I appreciate you John!
I have seen POR 15 paint but not the product your using. I have used a fiberglass reenforced body putty called Tiger hair the same way for small pin holes. I can even imagine JB Weld working the way you repaired the floor.
This patch was shown to me by a body guy for repairing small holes. Especially window channels and areas that are hard to fit and form metal to. It’s a budget friendly repair.
Hey man, thanks again for the video. I used this technique on the rocker panels of my MK4 Golf TDI where they always rust and it is thousands to fix. Do you have any suggestions on sanding this stuff down in a visible area? I am very good with paint work but feel like no matter what I do my body work always shows up! I am using the Magic Paint I mentioned in my other post because Por 15 Patch is too hard to find. Thanks for any thoughts!
Thanks James. It will take a rough grit to cut it usually. You may can top coat it with a light coat of filler and then prime and paint. Or Fiberall short strand
I'm wondering why not just use polyester or preferably epoxy resin with fibreglass mat as it's meant to be used then slop in some anti rust paint/primer or sealer in & around the area? Guessing its because the Por Patch also has extra rust proofing abilities & it gets to work right where it matters. Might consider this next time around thanks for posting 👍
So I went to order this from Amazon and the price had increased to $25. Not only that but it is largely unavailable now. Not only that...they shipped my order to someone else...likely because someone more important than me needed it. :( I saw some comments about alternative products. Anyone have any ideas on something else that works? Thanks.
Try Fiberall or fiber all light. It’s short stranded fiberglass. You can also go with JB Qwik if you want a two part epoxy style that you can use in place of POR patch
@@JustMoparJoe Thanks again. Times are strange and things are hard to get. Fibral Lite...only thing is it dries pale yellow. I like Upol products alot though. Guess I will paint it afterwards. Looks like it can be sanded a heck of a lot quicker too and easier.
I went with Chassis Saver Magnet paint. It came out perfect. Thanks so much again for putting this video up. So creative and I have learned something new that will last a lifetime.
Couple steps. If it’s rusted in areas that are hard to remove, etc, I neutralize it with an acid like the permatex rust converter. Then do a similar deal with the POR patch, then you can use short strand fiberglass filler like Fiberall or Fiberall lite. Sands great!
Any kind of fiberglass mat is good. You can get big sheets or rolls. You can also buy a bottle of permatex rust converter and brush it on the day before. That would make for a rust neutralized surface around the holes.
@@JustMoparJoe Thanks for the pointers!! Cloth or Mat? This looks more like cloth than mat and I am reading there is a difference. I like whatever you are using. Looks easiest to work with.
Mopar Joe, my '65 Coronet hardtop is an original factory A/C car with the two vents atop the dash.The only A/C parts i'm missing are the two vertical kick panel vents (one each side).,i noticed yours look nice. If you're removing your original A/C for aftermarket,would you be interested in selling your two original kick panel vents i'm missing ? Thanks
In Minnesota we'd call that a rust free car! 🤣 About 1980 I was 15 and bought a 65 Mustang, hundred dollar beater. Pulled back the carpet and saw the last guy's patch job and the floor of my dad's garage. Guy use expanded metal! That's a hack job. 🤣 I like your method, but up here you pretty much always need to weld in a whole lot of new metal.
The POR patch is a harder compound once dried. You can’t scratch it with an ice pick. Fiberglass resin can be easier sanded and has to be activated before using.
@@JustMoparJoe welllll...none of the stores had por 15. This one specialty pop shop didn't even know what I was talking about, but they did have the 3M seam sealer for 35 bucks. I bowed out of that one and picked up a tube of Dynatron seam sealer from Autozone for 20. We'll see how that goes...
have a couple of holes in my land rover floor from overflowing A/C drain vents backing up. (fixed that issue). Will have to remove the sill plates and pull the carpet up to get at the holes. There are screw hole metal grommets in the floor pan that the screws from the sill plate attach to. These are pooched in my case so I'll have to put new ones in. Will this fibreglass material with the POR15 patch material be strong enough to allow insertion of these new grommets?
@@JustMoparJoe that's great! took things apart today and there are 4-5 holes. not good. using spray foam to make a base to lay the fibreglass and POR-15 into. I chipped off any of the loose rust pieces/layers and then treated the metal with a rust preservative. will the POR-15 patch adhere good to this rust preservative I wonder?
Can i put the rust encapsulator on the inside of my frame rails they have some rust inside of them but would i have to clean them out somehow to put it on
I like eastwoods rust encapsulator on everything, but it needs top coated. A good enamel is fine, but I like the raptor liner. It comes with its own gun and is easy to shoot in any thickness.
Yes you can. You might want to add a large washer or band of metal to connect the mounting bolts on one side. You gotta worry about the seat falling through the floor if it’s bad, and the seat ripping out of the door if you had an accident or something. The tap would help distribute the load. Some seats have a nice wide track on top that has a big contact area. If that’s the case, then I’d add the metal to the bottom side. Something like a piece of flat metal 1” wide would be fine, and you’d be using the seat studs to pull it right against the pan.
??? They say this stuff is sandable, but how long after you apply it can you sand it smooth ? Because i read someplace that if it cures its almost impossible to sand smooth . Anyone know how long after i apply it, i can sand it ?
Used a air Jack and floor jack. Protect the Bottom of Your Muscle Car: Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator Full Process #diy #eastwood th-cam.com/video/Z6yLQrxqGlA/w-d-xo.html
Hey everyone I am a noobie at working with rust. I have a question that I hope someone would answer. I had already put some rust treatment spray can stuff but it didn’t patch the pin holes like I thought it would. Can I put this stuff over it or do I need to sand it down. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
@@danielc9155 most spray can stuff will dissolve the rust. I like the permatex stuff that turns it to a purple hue. This goes well over that. Just allow a day or so to allow it fully cure before applying
As many 65' Coronets as I have owned, I have never installed AC in any of them and want to in the 500 I own now. So I am hoping you OVER COVER the install of the aftermarket system you plan to install in this one... Also which one you picked and the reasons why....
Nope. It’s sealing in pin holes that could allow moisture to get to the new carpet insulation. It’s not worth cutting a full sized panel, and welding it in for pin holes. No structural repair here.
I want you to buy a tube of POR patch and try it, just like I did. Leave it out on your work bench after it dries and try to stab a screwdriver through it. Then come back and let me know how it works.
@JustMoparJoe well it just me specially I don't have any experience in the matter I would not trust a repair like the car's floor seen to be attacked pretty good
@@MrMrBigro I only did this in someone else’s car, after it lasted on mine for a while. If you double layer the fiberglass, it’s nearly impossible to stab through with a screwdriver. I’ve seen guys use fiberglass and resin. The resin separates from the metal after it rusts more. The POR attaches to the rust.
Mannnnnnn you are a life saver. My 77 cl0 and 72 chevelle will definitely be getting this done. A total Money saver
I haven't used the POR15 Patch previously, but I will definitely be giving that a go on some future projects if I have some pinhole size sheet metal issues!! Thanks Joe!!
Thanks Derek. You are building an awesome fleet!
@@JustMoparJoe We're trying brother...there may or may not be more 😜 🤔😜
I love these sorts of fixes. Knowledge of options is so important. Sometimes we all make issues bigger than they need to be. Thanks Joe you just don’t know important these lil fixes mean to some of us or at least me lol. Have a great freaking day!!!!!
Thanks Stan! Some options work for some, but not this one can be performed by anyone.
“Rocket Surgery “ one of my favorite Rickyisms. Definitely a good fix for the guy wanting to improve his ride and not go full blown restoration.
Thanks Mark! Check the underside of the Club cab. Might have a hidden one.
@@JustMoparJoe it actually has had some metal patches there already.
This video was very helpful, thank you. I have to do this where my rear seats were located in my 88 nissan pathfinder. This looks like a good way to do it and get on to something else. Now i know what to do, Thanks again for sharing.
What is the best alternative to POR 15 to use? It seems to be unavailable locally or on Amazon unfortunately, and there is so many other options I have no clue what to pick as a beginner to this sort of thing. I was able to find the fiberglass cloth roll, but not sure what to use to fill in the holes now. Great video and instructions, I feel way more confident about attempting this now just trying to figure out what I should be using since I can't get ahold of the POR 15. I just have three small holes I would like to patch that are big enough to be a problem, just like what you showed in the video.
JB kwik would be fine or you can buy 3m two part structural adhesive.
Thank you for this video. I am in the process of restoring my Dad's old truck that I inherited and had thought of using the liquid POR 15 and then sealing with Fiberglass and Resin over top but I have always heard that Fiberglass and resin won't adhere to metal in the long run. The POR products while getting hard remain stable on metal. This is a great idea where Welding may not be an option or even needed when structurally the metal is still strong. I have areas on the truck, similar and maybe even not as bad as yours that I wouldn't feel safe welding and this looks like a viable option to me. Thanks for sharing this. I appreciate it.
Excellent! Wear gloves. It’s nasty stuff
I was just talking about this very same technique while filming today for my July 24 episode. - and I was asking people to not let their heads explode over it. . 😂
We did this kind of stuff in the body shops for years. It’s a great way to repair a little pinholes.
I’ve never done it with por 15
I’ve always just done it with fiberglass resin. . But that’s a great thing you shared that I might try that on stitches. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks Bro.
Thanks Mike! Car is looking awesome!
@@JustMoparJoe It is. I can’t wait to see the finished product. Outstanding. I love the journey
Back on it this week!
Having done my own patch panels on floor pans I will say that this is definitely a viable alternative. I have not used this method but its something I will be willing to try though. You're totally right too, half of me hates this and the other half agrees with what you are doing, haha! Looks good man!
Thanks brother. I’ve seen this last for years. But if it didn’t, you can trim it off and weld one in. No harm brought to the surface.
@@JustMoparJoe Thats exactly where i was going with it in my head.
Cool stuff, I didn't know they made it, I've done that with resin before but you know how it runs and drips. This is much easier to use! Thanks for sharing Joe!
Thanks brother. Give it a try. No mixings and around $10 a tube
@@JustMoparJoe 👍
Thanks Joe... gettin me a tube!! Looks like a great product and way easier than messin with 2 part resin!! Old girl is coming up sweet!!
Thanks Aaron! I need to get on the horn and order this aftermarket A/C kit.
You're right about the windshield wiper shaft seals leaking rainwater down & causing rust.On my '65 it rusted out a major portion of the under dash metal (the big part the dash bolts into the car).I had to repair all that,it was a bunch of hard work.Also had to fix floor pan right where you are doing now. I grapfted in three different donor pieces (including the 4 speed hump.
Thanks for sharing Shane. I will find this source and seal it up
She looking good Brian in Tasmania still needs a free small repair 🇦🇺
Cheers! Thanks for the support
Por patch is good stuff. I've had good luck with it. Great for filling small holes and it seems to hold up well.
I need to give it a couple tests! 😂
Well you just made a video of the next step I need to do on the Dart!........ Only problem is I may have to use a much larger sheet of fiberglass...... Do they make that POR Patch in one gallon cans? Great Video Joe!!
😂😂thanks buddy. A little goes a long way.
Well, just learned how I am goin to fix my floor in the coronet. Thank you sir. Great idea.🤙🤙🤙
Thanks brother. If you want to redo it later, just trim around and go. But I’ve seen this last 8 years and counting so far.
I wouldn't hesitate to use that for small areas. I plug welded a left floorpan in my '83 Mustang GT due to rust through at the seat mount from a leaking t-top. Used seam sealer then POR-15 on the whole floor afterwards.....it's solid now.
It was alot of work cutting out the old floorpan and all.
Absolutely is. I hate welding around interiors and glass like this. Those spatters do bad things. Glad this one is taken care of for a while again!
If you were going to do that you should have used POR 15 on the hole floor first then Don that patch that way it ensures that there's no rust not covered. I have done that before just to see how it would work for a temporary fix until I could replace the part and it worked perfectly. But I rather replace the part for a true fix. And fiber glass and Resin doesn't even slow rust down. It just made it hard so you think it's fixed but the rust keeps eating away at it until the fiber glass can't hang on anymore. And I know this because I have done body work for over 21 years
Thanks for sharing Gary. This one will work well in the application. I’ve done it both ways. I absolutely prefer encapsulator to POR15. Fewer steps and good durability.
This is what im using for the small stuff works great drys up hard
Excellent! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for this video. Learned about a new product. Will put it to good use.
Glad it was helpful! I like to put filler over this stuff as well.
Thank you for sharing. Love your Mopar!
Thanks, brother!
You know I'm sold on that POR 15 patch good stuff Joe.
Check out “Totally Awesome” it’s a super nice degreaser
@@JustMoparJoe I will Joe!
Nice work man. The two videos sure show how a fella can make a beautiful clean underside. Great job. Yeah, I don't worry about pinholes at all. I'd have cut the rusty pan sections out and patch welded it but here in Alberta, the winters are harsh and you just gotta cut it out. The smaller pinholes in the back, I'd have repaired same as you. A sealer after neutralize the rust and some undercoating. Great job again Joe🤘🏼
Thanks brother. For 10$, give the patch a try. You can use it on anything! Lol
@@JustMoparJoe oh I definitely will. I enjoy most of the por15 products on a regular basis. They do exactly what they advertise and I have not been let down yet.
I have used fiberglass a few times for fixing floors both large and small sections. It works good especially if you don't have access to a welder.
Awesome! Try it with the patch sometime. It’s only $10 a tube and goes a long way.
Great looking car it's certainly coming along, all the best to you and your loved ones
Thanks Donald! Have a good evening
Great video Joe.Thank you
Thanks brother
Do you think I can use “SeamWeld
Seam Sealer & Panel Adhesive” from JB weld instead of por 15 cause I can’t find it here in the Bay Area
Yes sir, I would use something like the Permatex rust converter a day before, to kill the rust that’s taking place.
Nice work Joe.
That will work.
Looks very good.
Weigh out the cost of the POR patch vs metal replacement.
Works good.
May last a very long time.
It took 57 years to get that bad.
I would say it did pretty well.
Great content.
The POR school with JustMoparJoe.
Take care, Ed.
Thanks Ed! There’s holes to be filled 👍🏼
@@JustMoparJoe Let it be done!!
That stuff looks pretty good. 3 M makes some stuff too. It's not very high. Just like 35 bucks probably enough to do two floors. If it's bad probably buy the factory repair panels and glue them in. You could make it where you never see the seams or edges.
Thanks Mike. I have used the 2 part Panel Bond for similar jobs, after I hit the area with rust encapsulator and it dries well.
I'm on the 50/50 side, it started out looking like a hack job, but in reality it's not at all a bad fix if you watch to the end. You are correct in that there are far worse off cars out there driving around. I wouldn't hesitate to try the method, after all, it's not structural.
And if you want to replace it in a year, take a hammer and chisel and try to get it up! Or just cut out around it. You and I both know it’s hard to weld to rust. That would mean this would need at least a 2’x2’ patch.
@@JustMoparJoe Correct to the 100th, I may try that on my 68
I like it , I'll use it for some pin holes in my trunk floor , by the way the inner wheel wells were moved in and i removed the outer wells and added metal to get me close to the quarter panels then i closed the gap with fiberglass mat and resin and it works great !
Awesome! My dart sport had a 2’x2’ sheet of fiberglass over the passenger side floor pan. I was mad about it at the time, but maybe it was the best they could do at the time. Definitely an easy one to replace if need be. I had to take a floor Jack and block of wood to remove it!
that patch will work for a long time, it looks good joe.did you say the owner of this car is from the houston area,thats where im from maybe i will see it in person one day.its looking real good
Thanks, Paul! Yes sir. He’s in your neck of the woods.
Thanks for the POR15 Patch video. I still think I'm a fan of cut, patch and weld, but I think this is an option (at least in the short term).
I agree John. Cutting, fitting, and welding is the best option. But for a small spot, on this 4 door car, in a near perfect factory interior, with weld spatter hitting the glasses, and possibly hitting the new paint: I didn’t want to chance it. Think about the guy at home who wants to get his car on the road, but can’t afford a welder, or who is too weak to cut and shape metal. This is a perfect solution for them. I appreciate you John!
@@JustMoparJoe 4 door car...why should that matter? 😁 69 Polara 4 door over here. It's one of my pride n joys
@@modeljetjuggernaut4864 that’s a nice body style! I loved vanishing point.
I used panel bond to patch a few small holes in my challengers trunk
Excellent choice. I’ve patched with it as well. Similar consistency
I have seen POR 15 paint but not the product your using. I have used a fiberglass reenforced body putty called Tiger hair the same way for small pin holes. I can even imagine JB Weld working the way you repaired the floor.
This patch was shown to me by a body guy for repairing small holes. Especially window channels and areas that are hard to fit and form metal to. It’s a budget friendly repair.
Hey man, thanks again for the video. I used this technique on the rocker panels of my MK4 Golf TDI where they always rust and it is thousands to fix. Do you have any suggestions on sanding this stuff down in a visible area? I am very good with paint work but feel like no matter what I do my body work always shows up! I am using the Magic Paint I mentioned in my other post because Por 15 Patch is too hard to find. Thanks for any thoughts!
Thanks James. It will take a rough grit to cut it usually. You may can top coat it with a light coat of filler and then prime and paint. Or Fiberall short strand
Another great fix I learned ! Not too many old cars out there that don’t have at least some pinholes.
Thanks brother. Gotta sew em up
Great vid Joe👍
Thanks brother. Have a good one
that's pretty cool. great fix!
Thanks brother. It’s not quite showcar quality, but for the majority of mopars out there, this is good.
I'm wondering why not just use polyester or preferably epoxy resin with fibreglass mat as it's meant to be used then slop in some anti rust paint/primer or sealer in & around the area? Guessing its because the Por Patch also has extra rust proofing abilities & it gets to work right where it matters. Might consider this next time around thanks for posting 👍
That’s it. I like using the POR with eastwoods rust encapsulator too.
Awesome fix I’m currently working on my 79 Malibu I would love you pic put brain sometime as this is my first project car 😳
Thank you! Check out my playlist on the 67 coronet.
Planning Your Next Car: Preventing Project Lag! #NoNameNationals
th-cam.com/video/jLgti--TtmU/w-d-xo.html
So I went to order this from Amazon and the price had increased to $25. Not only that but it is largely unavailable now. Not only that...they shipped my order to someone else...likely because someone more important than me needed it. :( I saw some comments about alternative products. Anyone have any ideas on something else that works? Thanks.
Try Fiberall or fiber all light. It’s short stranded fiberglass. You can also go with JB Qwik if you want a two part epoxy style that you can use in place of POR patch
@@JustMoparJoe Thanks again. Times are strange and things are hard to get. Fibral Lite...only thing is it dries pale yellow. I like Upol products alot though. Guess I will paint it afterwards. Looks like it can be sanded a heck of a lot quicker too and easier.
I went with Chassis Saver Magnet paint. It came out perfect. Thanks so much again for putting this video up. So creative and I have learned something new that will last a lifetime.
@@jamesdean5677 awesome!
That’s a useful technique thanks! What do you do for holes on the visible body where you want to plug them up?
Couple steps. If it’s rusted in areas that are hard to remove, etc, I neutralize it with an acid like the permatex rust converter. Then do a similar deal with the POR patch, then you can use short strand fiberglass filler like Fiberall or Fiberall lite. Sands great!
This looks amazing. Thank you. I have never messed with fiberglass before. What kind if fiberglass do I need to look for when shopping on Amazon?
Any kind of fiberglass mat is good. You can get big sheets or rolls. You can also buy a bottle of permatex rust converter and brush it on the day before. That would make for a rust neutralized surface around the holes.
@@JustMoparJoe Thanks for the pointers!! Cloth or Mat? This looks more like cloth than mat and I am reading there is a difference. I like whatever you are using. Looks easiest to work with.
@@jamesdean5677 mine was cloth
Mopar Joe, my '65 Coronet hardtop is an original factory A/C car with the two vents atop the dash.The only A/C parts i'm missing are the two vertical kick panel vents (one each side).,i noticed yours look nice. If you're removing your original A/C for aftermarket,would you be interested in selling your two original kick panel vents i'm missing ? Thanks
I will have to ask the owner of this one. I did call and check on kits Friday. They’re 8 weeks out!
Thank you 🙏
Love the accent my man 🤣 I’m from Georgia. thanks for the vid
Glad you enjoyed! Y’all come see us!
In Minnesota we'd call that a rust free car! 🤣
About 1980 I was 15 and bought a 65 Mustang, hundred dollar beater. Pulled back the carpet and saw the last guy's patch job and the floor of my dad's garage.
Guy use expanded metal!
That's a hack job. 🤣
I like your method, but up here you pretty much always need to weld in a whole lot of new metal.
Thanks brother. I have a playlist on a 65 mustang! It’s older, but I welded in a full rear subframe! Step by step
@@JustMoparJoe That car is long gone. Working on a 68 Dodge D200 these days.
I could send you a hundred trolls a day, but you gotta clown’m to get’m to come back🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Haha! Thanks Billy. I get enough from my engine work. I’m still learning the art of buffing.
Love P.O.R products.
Good ole stuff
how does this POR compare to actual epoxy resin to coat out the fiberglass? Any sense of which is stronger and more durable?
The POR patch is a harder compound once dried. You can’t scratch it with an ice pick. Fiberglass resin can be easier sanded and has to be activated before using.
Brilliant man...
Give it a try!
@@JustMoparJoe welllll...none of the stores had por 15. This one specialty pop shop didn't even know what I was talking about, but they did have the 3M seam sealer for 35 bucks. I bowed out of that one and picked up a tube of Dynatron seam sealer from Autozone for 20. We'll see how that goes...
have a couple of holes in my land rover floor from overflowing A/C drain vents backing up. (fixed that issue). Will have to remove the sill plates and pull the carpet up to get at the holes. There are screw hole metal grommets in the floor pan that the screws from the sill plate attach to. These are pooched in my case so I'll have to put new ones in. Will this fibreglass material with the POR15 patch material be strong enough to allow insertion of these new grommets?
I would think so, especially if you cross weave the layers. It will make a hard surface that you can drill through.
@@JustMoparJoe that's great! took things apart today and there are 4-5 holes. not good. using spray foam to make a base to lay the fibreglass and POR-15 into. I chipped off any of the loose rust pieces/layers and then treated the metal with a rust preservative. will the POR-15 patch adhere good to this rust preservative I wonder?
@@mackendw yes. If it’s fully cured
Can i put the rust encapsulator on the inside of my frame rails they have some rust inside of them but would i have to clean them out somehow to put it on
Yes. They also have an internal frame coating with a tube that inserts
Looks like water was the enemy, hope you addressed that.
@@truth6600 yes sir. I’ve got a video in the series showing testing for water leaks in this car.
What are you painting over it with thinking about undercoating my 64 chevelle convertible malibu
I like eastwoods rust encapsulator on everything, but it needs top coated. A good enamel is fine, but I like the raptor liner. It comes with its own gun and is easy to shoot in any thickness.
Got a rust hole where one of the bolts go that bolt the seat down would i be able to do this and then drill through and mount the seat?
Yes you can. You might want to add a large washer or band of metal to connect the mounting bolts on one side. You gotta worry about the seat falling through the floor if it’s bad, and the seat ripping out of the door if you had an accident or something. The tap would help distribute the load. Some seats have a nice wide track on top that has a big contact area. If that’s the case, then I’d add the metal to the bottom side. Something like a piece of flat metal 1” wide would be fine, and you’d be using the seat studs to pull it right against the pan.
??? They say this stuff is sandable, but how long after you apply it can you sand it smooth ?
Because i read someplace that if it cures its almost impossible to sand smooth .
Anyone know how long after i apply it, i can sand it ?
I would say 24 hours. It’s very hard to sand. You might want a flap disc or you’ll be a while.
For small rust areas your solution is viable.
Absolutely. I wouldn’t recommend doing places larger than a 1-2” square. Non structural area
Did u use a floor jack to get under ur car so u paint under ur car
Used a air Jack and floor jack. Protect the Bottom of Your Muscle Car: Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator Full Process #diy #eastwood
th-cam.com/video/Z6yLQrxqGlA/w-d-xo.html
Good job buddy
Thanks buddy. Hope you’re staying cool
I just had knee surgery
Prayers for you
Hey everyone I am a noobie at working with rust. I have a question that I hope someone would answer. I had already put some rust treatment spray can stuff but it didn’t patch the pin holes like I thought it would. Can I put this stuff over it or do I need to sand it down. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
@@danielc9155 most spray can stuff will dissolve the rust. I like the permatex stuff that turns it to a purple hue. This goes well over that. Just allow a day or so to allow it fully cure before applying
@@JustMoparJoethank you
Where do you find this or is it something you have to order I’ve checked Home Depot and lowes online doesn’t say they carry it
It’s on Amazon. POR patch
@@JustMoparJoe thank you I really appreciate it
@@ftn4442 it’s really good stuff. You have to aggressively sand it to topcoat
@@ftn4442 it’s really good stuff. You have to aggressively sand it to topcoat
@@JustMoparJoe I’m patching up the bottom
Of my 87 caprice I’m definitely using your method I really appreciate it
How did you treat that surrounding rust ?
Once the POR dried, I brushed on two coats of Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator. Same thing I shot on the bottom side of the car.
As many 65' Coronets as I have owned, I have never installed AC in any of them and want to in the 500 I own now. So I am hoping you OVER COVER the install of the aftermarket system you plan to install in this one... Also which one you picked and the reasons why....
Thanks Steve. I will do my best 👍🏼
Woulda been viable if u wire brushed the surface atleast
When you wire brush metal this thin, it disappears. POR patch adheres to literally anything that isn’t oil or water. Buy some and try it.
That gets 2 thumbs up frome!!!!!👍👍
Thanks brother! Try it out if you have a chance
this is how u fix a car that u are going to sell and rip a person off
Nope. It’s sealing in pin holes that could allow moisture to get to the new carpet insulation. It’s not worth cutting a full sized panel, and welding it in for pin holes. No structural repair here.
😃
It’s there now! 😂
That is a poor fix i though at first you have use a metal patch and glue it to the floor
I want you to buy a tube of POR patch and try it, just like I did. Leave it out on your work bench after it dries and try to stab a screwdriver through it. Then come back and let me know how it works.
@JustMoparJoe well it just me specially I don't have any experience in the matter I would not trust a repair like the car's floor seen to be attacked pretty good
@@MrMrBigro I only did this in someone else’s car, after it lasted on mine for a while. If you double layer the fiberglass, it’s nearly impossible to stab through with a screwdriver. I’ve seen guys use fiberglass and resin. The resin separates from the metal after it rusts more. The POR attaches to the rust.
If your not getting the cancer from something your probably not having any fun. lol
Amen!