The major problem that I found with my KRX is that the stock and aftermarket paper air filters let fine dust pass through them and in turn the dust is ingested through the intake tract right into the engine. I have cured that problem on my machine because I have adapted a three stage UNI Foam Air Filter to my cars air filter box. It works perfect and since I added the foam air filter I have not found one speck of dust pass through the filter into the intake tract. I have consulted both UNI and Twin Air about making a foam air filter for the KRX and Twin Air did respond back to me and said that they were currently working on a foam air filter for the KRX and to check back with them around mid December. This is a major problem to me and I am not the only one with this problem as I was a member of a forum and I told people about it and they too found dust going past the air filter element into the intake tract. I since deleted my account to the forum and I never told any of them about my solution.
I have not noticed this problem, but im very interested. Both of my pre 2018 polaris were notorious for sucking dust past the air filter. This obviously will kill the engine. UNI is what I also did to cure it, with some other mods. However my Polaris RS1 race car didnt have the issues. Polaris, Arctic cat, Kawasaki and other manufacturers have all gone to using the Donaldson air filter box and air filters for there machines. Because of that my RS1 did not have issues, which means they all should not as far as the air filter goes. They should all be the same, except for where they pick the air up from. However on that machine also, I did the UNI filter. We are running our Full Access utv replacement donaldson air filter in the KRX 1000 that is a little longer than stock. It just applies a little more pressure to the sealing surface. I have had no dirt in the intake tubes. However, on our race build, we will be running a Kraftwerks supercharger and want a better filter option. The oiled filters cut down air flow some, but who cares if the engine can live. Im interested in what you have found. I would gladly run a reusable oiled filter if it was LARGER than stock as to not cut down air flow. Possibly send me a email at Jake@fullaccessutv.com.
@@fullaccessutv What I use as a foam air filter is a UNI NU-8519ST filter which is for a Polaris XP-1000 Turbo which has plenty of flow for our N/A engines. The filter is a clamp on unit and our stock air filter is a radial seal unit. In order to adapt the UNI Foam Air Filter to the radial seal surface of our stock air cleaner housing I had to do some modifying to the filter. I cut the rubber clamp on end of the UNI filter off and I left the foam as long as possible. Then I cut all of the paper pleating off of the stock Kawasaki air filter flush to the end of the filter paper pleating leaving the rubber radial seal base on the filter cage. That left the end of the stock filter base pleating right at the edge to where the pleating is molded into the filter base rubber exposed which I needed a flat surface there to use as a sealing surface. I cut a plastic washer the size of the surface area at that location which I made sure that the inside diameter of the washer fit tight to the filter base. I glued the flat plastic sealing washer ( which I cut out of my stock plastic skid plate) using RTV silicone making sure that I had all of the voids sealed off. That left me with the stock air filter radial seal on the base and a inner cage that I could use for the foam UNI filter. I then had to trim the stock inner air filter cage opposite of the filter base down to the correct length so that left the end of the cage with jagged edges which would tear the inner foam element. I found a plastic cap that fit the inner cage which covers up the cut end of the inner cage but I have also put a bead of hot glue around the end of another cage which works too. Then I was able to pull the UNI foam air filter over the stock air filter cage all the way down to the plastic sealing washer at the filter base. The UNI filter element is longer than the stock air filter which is a good thing because the extra length of the foam element puts a preload on the end of the filter which seals against the flat plastic sealing washer. I treat the end of the filter at that location with a thick coat of Bel Ray water proof grease to make sure that I have a good seal there. I also use Bel Ray Foam Air Filter oil to treat the foam air filter element which I have found over many years of riding motorcycles and racing them to be the best but you have to make sure that you put plenty on the filter. Now I have a triple foam air filter that dust does not pass through! Doing this modification has been the single most important thing that I have done to my machine. I have many years of engine experience and I know what dust does to the internal parts of a engine. I will send you a picture of my modified filter cage
Not sure what the deal was with the attempted southern accent, but very helpful video nonetheless!!! LOL!!!! I'll be adjusting my float this weekend, thanks
takes a lot of vacuum pressure to get fuel through the stock sock. Sock collapses under the vacuum. Not a great stock design (way over filtered for sure). For an inline filter that material would be better where fluid is pushed through. Almost as fine as shark skin which is designed to keep fluid out,
Seems like a bleeder tube between the high side and the low side would be a great fix. maybe use one of those friction tools they use on rv tanks to add fittings.
That fuel sender issue is ridiculous! Every time we would fill up and head out, we would be down to 2 bars of fuel in no time at all. Then we would go fill up and would only get in about 4 gallons. Today I removed the assy and took down measurements of the fuel bar readings at each interval (6 bars in all). The overall travel of that sender bulb is 4.375 inches. If you can believe, you hit one bar at 2.5 inches from the bottom of its travel! That is only like an inch and 7/8 worth of travel from a full tank and you are reading empty?? I lowered mine by one inch doing what you did there and will see how it turns out in the weeks ahead. Some people in other videos were skeptical of this mod, but the thing is, once you hit that last bar and its blinking, you really have no idea how much fuel you really have left, even IF you don't want to do the mod, and the range without it REALLY sucks, especially in the sand.
Great Video! I'm servicing my KRX next weekend and thought I'd do fuel filter too. Ordering your filter socks today. Now I'll also be doing your hack on the level sensor too. Bonus! Do you have a solution for squeaky KRX suspension?
@@fullaccessutv thanks! I bought your aluminum fuel rail, roll over valve and filter sock! Got them all installed and they are working great! Improved fuel mileage by about 40 miles per tank
would be sweet, if you did a build series on that racer in the background
Working on that
@@fullaccessutv Great!
+1 - New Sock is a lot less restrictive. Spare is a bonus! My gage reads right now too. Was at zero bars until I bent the float now at 1 bar.
The major problem that I found with my KRX is that the stock and aftermarket paper air filters let fine dust pass through them and in turn the dust is ingested through the intake tract right into the engine. I have cured that problem on my machine because I have adapted a three stage UNI Foam Air Filter to my cars air filter box. It works perfect and since I added the foam air filter I have not found one speck of dust pass through the filter into the intake tract. I have consulted both UNI and Twin Air about making a foam air filter for the KRX and Twin Air did respond back to me and said that they were currently working on a foam air filter for the KRX and to check back with them around mid December. This is a major problem to me and I am not the only one with this problem as I was a member of a forum and I told people about it and they too found dust going past the air filter element into the intake tract. I since deleted my account to the forum and I never told any of them about my solution.
I have not noticed this problem, but im very interested. Both of my pre 2018 polaris were notorious for sucking dust past the air filter. This obviously will kill the engine. UNI is what I also did to cure it, with some other mods.
However my Polaris RS1 race car didnt have the issues. Polaris, Arctic cat, Kawasaki and other manufacturers have all gone to using the Donaldson air filter box and air filters for there machines. Because of that my RS1 did not have issues, which means they all should not as far as the air filter goes. They should all be the same, except for where they pick the air up from. However on that machine also, I did the UNI filter.
We are running our Full Access utv replacement donaldson air filter in the KRX 1000 that is a little longer than stock. It just applies a little more pressure to the sealing surface. I have had no dirt in the intake tubes.
However, on our race build, we will be running a Kraftwerks supercharger and want a better filter option. The oiled filters cut down air flow some, but who cares if the engine can live. Im interested in what you have found. I would gladly run a reusable oiled filter if it was LARGER than stock as to not cut down air flow. Possibly send me a email at Jake@fullaccessutv.com.
@@fullaccessutv What I use as a foam air filter is a UNI NU-8519ST filter which is for a Polaris XP-1000 Turbo which has plenty of flow for our N/A engines.
The filter is a clamp on unit and our stock air filter is a radial seal unit. In order to adapt the UNI Foam Air Filter to the radial seal surface of our stock air cleaner housing I had to do some modifying to the filter. I cut the rubber clamp on end of the UNI filter off and I left the foam as long as possible. Then I cut all of the paper pleating off of the stock Kawasaki air filter flush to the end of the filter paper pleating leaving the rubber radial seal base on the filter cage. That left the end of the stock filter base pleating right at the edge to where the pleating is molded into the filter base rubber exposed which I needed a flat surface there to use as a sealing surface. I cut a plastic washer the size of the surface area at that location which I made sure that the inside diameter of the washer fit tight to the filter base. I glued the flat plastic sealing washer ( which I cut out of my stock plastic skid plate) using RTV silicone making sure that I had all of the voids sealed off. That left me with the stock air filter radial seal on the base and a inner cage that I could use for the foam UNI filter. I then had to trim the stock inner air filter cage opposite of the filter base down to the correct length so that left the end of the cage with jagged edges which would tear the inner foam element. I found a plastic cap that fit the inner cage which covers up the cut end of the inner cage but I have also put a bead of hot glue around the end of another cage which works too. Then I was able to pull the UNI foam air filter over the stock air filter cage all the way down to the plastic sealing washer at the filter base. The UNI filter element is longer than the stock air filter which is a good thing because the extra length of the foam element puts a preload on the end of the filter which seals against the flat plastic sealing washer. I treat the end of the filter at that location with a thick coat of Bel Ray water proof grease to make sure that I have a good seal there. I also use Bel Ray Foam Air Filter oil to treat the foam air filter element which I have found over many years of riding motorcycles and racing them to be the best but you have to make sure that you put plenty on the filter. Now I have a triple foam air filter that dust does not pass through! Doing this modification has been the single most important thing that I have done to my machine. I have many years of engine experience and I know what dust does to the internal parts of a engine. I will send you a picture of my modified filter cage
Bret, why did you delete your account on the KRX forum? I was following you and also had trouble with getting dust in my intake
@@1rustyshackelford I just decided that I am not a forum guy.
Not sure what the deal was with the attempted southern accent, but very helpful video nonetheless!!! LOL!!!! I'll be adjusting my float this weekend, thanks
Another great video. Thanks Jake!
takes a lot of vacuum pressure to get fuel through the stock sock. Sock collapses under the vacuum. Not a great stock design (way over filtered for sure). For an inline filter that material would be better where fluid is pushed through. Almost as fine as shark skin which is designed to keep fluid out,
Appreciate the video Jake. Filter swapped out and linkage modified 👍
Pretty much going to order everything you make for the krx including I want that rear bumper that the cooler sets in 🇺🇸
hopefully we will have these out in the nexy couple months
@@fullaccessutv Haven't even bought a KRX yet but this rear cooler bumper is my favorite! I think you designed it very well.
Seems like a bleeder tube between the high side and the low side would be a great fix. maybe use one of those friction tools they use on rv tanks to add fittings.
My good sir, you forgot to "edit that out". LOL. All good. Good info. Just got my KRX eS and tomorrow is a quickie maiden voyage.
Lol.
That fuel sender issue is ridiculous! Every time we would fill up and head out, we would be down to 2 bars of fuel in no time at all. Then we would go fill up and would only get in about 4 gallons. Today I removed the assy and took down measurements of the fuel bar readings at each interval (6 bars in all). The overall travel of that sender bulb is 4.375 inches. If you can believe, you hit one bar at 2.5 inches from the bottom of its travel! That is only like an inch and 7/8 worth of travel from a full tank and you are reading empty?? I lowered mine by one inch doing what you did there and will see how it turns out in the weeks ahead. Some people in other videos were skeptical of this mod, but the thing is, once you hit that last bar and its blinking, you really have no idea how much fuel you really have left, even IF you don't want to do the mod, and the range without it REALLY sucks, especially in the sand.
@@caseymaloney3416 fully agree. I’m not sure why it’s so far off from the factory.
where do i buy the fuel filters for my krx 1000?
@@sycosyco8168 call us 775-379-0940 or www.fullaccessutv.com
Can you tell me if the issues will be the same for the 2023 4 seater?
I can’t yet
Great Video! I'm servicing my KRX next weekend and thought I'd do fuel filter too. Ordering your filter socks today. Now I'll also be doing your hack on the level sensor too. Bonus! Do you have a solution for squeaky KRX suspension?
I do not. I haven’t experienced it, but I keep them clean. Not sure
My gauge shows always full. Will this adjustment help fix this problem
Probably not. Sounds like you need a new fuel center. Either way you could pull it out and look at it
Great video. Thanks.
Do you have to drop the tank to do this sock swap? Or is there a plate of some kind inside?
There is a plate under the passenger seat
@@fullaccessutv thanks! I bought your aluminum fuel rail, roll over valve and filter sock! Got them all installed and they are working great! Improved fuel mileage by about 40 miles per tank
This the shock towers and so on and so on. Makes me wish I had never got a Kawasaki. Have only 2 miles on it. Yep should have gone with the X3 R.
Well feel free to sell it and go buy something inferior. No whining here please.
Beware of those fuel filters