The recesses on the head are counterbores, not countersinks. Counterbores are parallel, countersinks are tapered. Incidentally, Hemingway can supply drawings in metric.
A great video for us lathe beginners, thanks! I made the hole in the head by clamping it against my 4-jaw chuck, locating longitudinally to a center in the tail stock and side-to-side with a dial indicator against chuck jaws. Two jaws were inside and two jaws outside to hold the length. I really needed a machinist’s hammer to tap the head in, but didn’t have one yet!
A nice idea, but . . . Where’s the socket? Usually such a tool has a brass face on one side and a socket for the mill drawbar on the other. While many guys knurl the handle, I wrapped my handle in rubber tape and heat-shrink tubing for a bit of cushioning. Start with a deep impact-rated socket. Impact sockets are softer and lack plating. Make your brass head by milling a square peg onto the end of a bit of bar stock. Pin the head to the socket. Weld the handle to the socket. Wrap handle and you’re finished.
12:50 How about some kind of vice stop? With the stop set up to the collet block you can turn the block without losing position. That's what I'd have done (I don't have a spindexer).
with ref:to the workshop tour just an overview of your machines and layout and just a quick summary of the quality and value of the Warco machines ( they seem to be about the best for quality against price for hobby work although the prices have risen dramatically recently) Thanks.
Nice job! I know exactly what you mean about not wanting to use it. My brother is a professional knifemaker, and he made me a very nice chipping hammer for a birthday a few years ago. I use it very sparingly!
I know this is a older video but for anyone wondering about surface finish with slow speed hss would be the best preferably with a decent radius on it but if you only have carbide fine your biggest nose radius tip typically .8mm run it real slow like 100 rpm with a .1 feed and use coolant mainly to wash away the swarf better known has a water cut
Very nice job. It does look weird being offset, but you can see it is very well balanced as you twirl it in your hand. I'm surprised the Hemingway kit was based on bananas rather than metric, I thought they were a UK supplier.
Thanks Jack. Hemingway kits are a UK based supplier. Some of their newer designs such as the rotary broach have metric plans, but many of the kits are are based upon older designs from the 70’s when imperial was still prevalent.
@@joneseymakes - note the "imperial" BSF and BSW threads specified in these old kits is Whitworth, and not the UNF and UNC threads that are used in the US and Canada. If you are translating into American for your viewers, then just substitute the terms BSF=UNF and BSW=UNC. Nobody in any country uses Whitworth in normal machining for about the last 40-50 years.
Fair point. I wouldn’t want to use a regular hammer with a skinny handle. This will be used for very light work however, setting work true in the vice etc where more ‘feel’ is required. I’ll use it for a bit and see how I get on, I could always knurl the handle later for better grip if needed. Thanks for the feedback.
I don't agree. I have three machinist's hammers, one of which is the Hemingway kit that I made, and two were purchased. They ALL have round shafts. See th-cam.com/video/tu1fgwjbJ-o/w-d-xo.html and you will see another video of making a machinist's hammer - also with a round shaft.
Following page 9:30 The parting accident was caused by excessive flex in the system. So where? Given your machine didn’t exhibit flex before, I think it came between the round and the jaws. Normally the parting tool dig under the center line by system flex but this time the round rose up also causing the digging. And the smoking gun is right at page 9:44
congratulations came out nicely in the end,those kits are certainly worth the money.how about a quick tour round your machines as I'm looking to set up a small workshop myself probably with a Warco lathe and mill ?
Hi Steve, thanks for the comment. Yes I can certainly to a workshop tour video. I'll get that on the plan. What kind of stuff would you be interested in seeing? Just a quick overview of my setup or more in depth machine reviews etc?
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The recesses on the head are counterbores, not countersinks. Counterbores are parallel, countersinks are tapered. Incidentally, Hemingway can supply drawings in metric.
Thanks for the feedback Ian, yes I misspoke on the counterbores, good spot. Good to hear Hemingway offers metric plans too.
Just binge watching your channel, great work and thanks for all of the content
A great video for us lathe beginners, thanks! I made the hole in the head by clamping it against my 4-jaw chuck, locating longitudinally to a center in the tail stock and side-to-side with a dial indicator against chuck jaws. Two jaws were inside and two jaws outside to hold the length. I really needed a machinist’s hammer to tap the head in, but didn’t have one yet!
Good job! There isn’t much you can’t do with the four jaw! What’s your next project?
nice project....I don't understand the 2 grooves? why do they help when rotating a part to turn to same diam from 2 ends?
They just give you a negative space for the cutting tool to turn into. Otherwise you’d have to try and blend the cuts from both ends.
A nice idea, but . . . Where’s the socket?
Usually such a tool has a brass face on one side and a socket for the mill drawbar on the other. While many guys knurl the handle, I wrapped my handle in rubber tape and heat-shrink tubing for a bit of cushioning.
Start with a deep impact-rated socket. Impact sockets are softer and lack plating. Make your brass head by milling a square peg onto the end of a bit of bar stock. Pin the head to the socket. Weld the handle to the socket. Wrap handle and you’re finished.
12:50 How about some kind of vice stop? With the stop set up to the collet block you can turn the block without losing position. That's what I'd have done (I don't have a spindexer).
Yes that’s a great idea. I need to make a vice stop.
“The nut that holds the handle on the hammer”, that would be you, right?😂
Yes indeed :-)
My first machinists project was -well it was a drill taper gauge, but my SECOND one was a machinists hammer. still have it to this day.
Good man!
with ref:to the workshop tour just an overview of your machines and layout and just a quick summary of the quality and value of the Warco machines ( they seem to be about the best for quality against price for hobby work although the prices have risen dramatically recently) Thanks.
Ok will do, thanks Steve.
Great Info.Apreciated.
Love this one also. Just ordered my first Hemingway kit - the sensitive knurling tool!
Good man, I’ll be building that one soon.
Beautiful job. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Dale! Much appreciated.
Another really good video, an essential tool for any shop.
Thanks!
Nice job! I know exactly what you mean about not wanting to use it. My brother is a professional knifemaker, and he made me a very nice chipping hammer for a birthday a few years ago. I use it very sparingly!
Thanks!
I know this is a older video but for anyone wondering about surface finish with slow speed hss would be the best preferably with a decent radius on it but if you only have carbide fine your biggest nose radius tip typically .8mm run it real slow like 100 rpm with a .1 feed and use coolant mainly to wash away the swarf better known has a water cut
Thanks for the tip
Nice work and nice video production 👍
Thanks!
excellent video especially the tip about turning phospher bronze also i like your micrometer holder have you a video on making that
Thanks! The micrometer holder I bought, although that would be a good little project. Something to think about for the future perhaps.
Excellent job man, 👍👍👍
Thanks!
Very nice job. It does look weird being offset, but you can see it is very well balanced as you twirl it in your hand.
I'm surprised the Hemingway kit was based on bananas rather than metric, I thought they were a UK supplier.
Thanks Jack. Hemingway kits are a UK based supplier. Some of their newer designs such as the rotary broach have metric plans, but many of the kits are are based upon older designs from the 70’s when imperial was still prevalent.
@@joneseymakes - note the "imperial" BSF and BSW threads specified in these old kits is Whitworth, and not the UNF and UNC threads that are used in the US and Canada.
If you are translating into American for your viewers, then just substitute the terms BSF=UNF and BSW=UNC. Nobody in any country uses Whitworth in normal machining for about the last 40-50 years.
Hammer handles MUST have an oblong/elliptical cross section for positive grip.Very reduced control for round and skinny handle if oily,sweaty hand.
Fair point. I wouldn’t want to use a regular hammer with a skinny handle. This will be used for very light work however, setting work true in the vice etc where more ‘feel’ is required. I’ll use it for a bit and see how I get on, I could always knurl the handle later for better grip if needed. Thanks for the feedback.
I don't agree. I have three machinist's hammers, one of which is the Hemingway kit that I made, and two were purchased. They ALL have round shafts. See th-cam.com/video/tu1fgwjbJ-o/w-d-xo.html and you will see another video of making a machinist's hammer - also with a round shaft.
@@ianbramble8337 - well of course. It's too hard to buy oval stock.
Does bronze act like copper when used as a hammer face? I know a brass hammer will rebound to a degree while a copper is more of a "deadblow" effect.
The bronze acts more like a dead blow as you say and the aluminium pole rebounds a bit more, gives a little more 'feel' if that makes sense.
Just discovered your channel. Love the machinist content and style.
Thank you!
Looks very good. The icing on the cake would have been if you had clocked the slit in the nut parallel or perpendicular to the head.
Good point, should have done that!
Following page 9:30
The parting accident was caused by excessive flex in the system. So where? Given your machine didn’t exhibit flex before, I think it came between the round and the jaws.
Normally the parting tool dig under the center line by system flex but this time the round rose up also causing the digging. And the smoking gun is right at page 9:44
Yes I'd agree, thanks.
Just curious, but what's a "lathe file"?
The teeth are cut in a different way to a regular file, resulting in a nicer finish when used on a lathe.
never heard of isopropyl alcohol being used as a lubricant, does it work good?
Yes it works well for Aluminium, very clean too as it just evaporates.
@@joneseymakes I see, Usually I just use some WD-40, Ill have to give it a try. Love the videos by the way very fun to watch
@@triggerhappysjw5343 Thanks!
congratulations came out nicely in the end,those kits are certainly worth the money.how about a quick tour round your machines as I'm looking to set up a small workshop myself probably with a Warco lathe and mill ?
Hi Steve, thanks for the comment. Yes I can certainly to a workshop tour video. I'll get that on the plan. What kind of stuff would you be interested in seeing? Just a quick overview of my setup or more in depth machine reviews etc?
Gamma Ray Pale Ale. 😋
Yes indeed! :-)
Um show!!!
Bores, man.