Just found your channel and it ticks all the boxes. Very entertaining and great editing. Thank you for the uploads, hope your channel get the subscribers it deserves
Exceptional. 👏👏👍😀 Such an informative, interesting and educational video. Yet again, beautifully filmed and clearly narrated. This kit is now high on my wish list. Thank you for sharing. Andrew
For tapping blind holes with regular taps, you can use old grease(find a tub of expired grease on secondhand market, ebay or similar), just shove the grease into the hole, fill it to the brim and go in... The grease will ``hydraulically`` push the chips out, lubricate the tap and give you a great finish of the threads cut(that is if your tap isn`t dull)... As the tap goes in, the grease is forced out and with the viscosity of grease, the chips can`t just fall in, but are caught by the ``jets`` of grease and carried out of the hole, leaving nothing but a greasy hole behind, ready for a fastener of any sort to nicely thread in and squeeze the grease slowly through the thread clearance - ensuring a rustproof threaded joint for years to come... There is a slight chance of a chip or two remaining in the bottom, but generally, there is enough space for them to not interfere at all with the function of the joint... Old grease is just the best, be it for that or other such wonky work(deep drilling - pilot drill and fill the pilot with grease, as the large drill gets hotter, it melts the grease - cooling the drill and lubricating the cut and the chips as they get fluted out) or for just smearing it on parts you want to prevent from rusting... Just slather the grease on em and wrap the thing in clingwrap... It can also be used to store bearings, just cake the damn thing fully with grease and voila, no rust... When you need the bearing, purge the grease with solvent of choice and lubricate the bearing accordingly to type and usecase... Just don`t use contaminated grease, it can be old, but it has to be clean... Or just buy the cheapest grease for bearings and chains you can find... If it`s new, it`s likely clean enough for aforementioned uses... All the best and kind regards! Steuss
Very nice work - I've looked at some of the Hemingway kits and have considered having a go at one of them, and the price looks good too. Nice to see that it appears to be little problem shipping to the west side of the pond. I've purchased from RDG Tools and had good shipping time.
Great video. Looks like you could solve a few issues by moving the drill guide mount down to the end of the block. That way your clamp could sit at 90* to the part. If the clamp is at a 90* to the part, you could then cut a V groove into the bottom of the hold down to better hold round stock. This would also give more room for the chuck.
That turned out really nice. It would be really handy for making small Parts, like for a small Steam Engine. Very nice Job on the Machining. These are great projects for Learning, plus you get a nice Tool in the end. Thanks for making these Videos.😁👍👍
@@joneseymakes I did an 8 part video on the Sensitive knurling tool. At present i have posted 4 video's on the Large bore lathe steady rest. Still quite a bit to do on that. Regards. Steve.
Nice JIG, excellent workmanship, finish and details. I have some doubts about the parallelism of the tool which could also lead to an error on the z axis. Personally, I would have used a half sphere instead of the semi-cone as a tailstock. However, my compliments.
Thanks for the video, nice job, and would be a good weekend project, I made the Hemingway knurling tool, couple of weeks ago, that's a fun project, and you are right, the dwg's and notes are good,.
@@joneseymakes I made a little holding fixture for the rotary table (mild steel black, 75 x 6 mm) for milling all the radius's (i started following you on insta, couple of shots there ) and used M5 instead of the BA taps, 3/8 BSF hard to find in Aus also. Gary
Well done. Nice relevant-point type instruction. I really liked the file work you showed though. It’s one of my favorite tools and want to understand it better. For example, why it spins on one side causing a bit of consciousness to its orientation. Whereas argued its just an inevitable result of quenching, that ‘arching’ seems to play into the usefulness of the tool, for example, handmade chamfering. Hope you can share insight to that. But again, thanks.
Superb presentation! But is the hole in the drill guide really drilled to 3/8 inch? It looks about half that size, almost matching in diameter the 4mm slot drill you use on the base...
Just found your channel this last week and watched all of the vids, great job, love your close up filming and clear speech, reminds me of Click springs videos. I’ve just bought the Hemingway tool post grinder kit to build. The only thing that stands out to me from your videos and this tool post grinder is all the old school imperial measurements that only the US keeps pushing. I only work with metric on both my manual mill and lathe, and my CNC mill. It’s a real pain having to go through the drawings changing everything to a metric equivalent number. I think Hemingway should offer either metric or old school drawings when you purchase a kit from them. Great vids, what’s your next project going to be? I would like to buy and build the Quorn Tool grinder, but that is a lot of number changing to build that!
Thanks Rob, I'd be interested to hear how you get on with the tool post grinder, do you have any specific projects in mind that you need that for? I too prefer metric but I don't mind too much working in imperial. What I do find a pain is converting fractional measurements from the drawings to decimal measurements that I can work my DROs with. I'll be building the graduating tool from Hemingway next
@@joneseymakes hi mate, so the tool post grinder arrived a couple of days ago, I was amazed how big the box was!! There are a lot of aluminium castings in there, it’s sure going to be a lot of work and a fun project! The reason for getting it is there’s a batch of parts I need to make from a discontinued product and I know I can sell a bunch of them. I need to be able to grind the final diameters accurately and between centres in heat treated silver steel (Drill Rod)
Thanks! I’m pretty sure they ship to the USA, although it might be more economical on shipping to get them to send you the plans and to buy the bar stock locally. I’d recommend contacting Hemingway kits direct. All the best and thanks for watching.
I enquired with Hemingway kits and they do ship to the USA. Apparently the shipping costs are reasonable and it's quite fast. You can buy this kit from the following link, hope that helps. www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/Finger_Plate_Kit.html
6:35 the struggle is real! Spray some WD40 on the vise jaw and that angle block will stick to it. Shortly after, you mention that noting the position of the DRO will take it to the same depth. 🛑 I've been here! Unless you set a stop on the left of that slope, It's not going to re-reference to the same height. Sorry to be that guy.😋 Disregarding the smart-ass comment, good vid. 😁👍
Thanks for the WD40 tip! Yes, you’re right on the DRO comment. I think what I did was to note the depth after touching off, which wasn’t clear from my comments! Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching!
@@joneseymakes as you said in your other video is looks hotter than it is, i do cherry red with dim lighting and until it no longer attracts to a magnet, i also found water works better to quench tool steel and keep moving the part to prevent vapour collecting (bubbles around the part) stops it quenching quickly, then anneal to straw, great videos btw
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Hemingway Kits has so many interesting projects, nice to see you making them one by one!
Thanks!
Just binge watching your channel, great work and thanks for all of the content.
Great idea, nicely done!
Great work!!
Thanks Dave!
Great little project. Liked and subscribed.👍
Much appreciated, thanks!
Just found your channel and it ticks all the boxes. Very entertaining and great editing. Thank you for the uploads, hope your channel get the subscribers it deserves
Thanks for the feedback, plenty more videos in the pipeline!
Exceptional. 👏👏👍😀
Such an informative, interesting and educational video. Yet again, beautifully filmed and clearly narrated.
This kit is now high on my wish list.
Thank you for sharing.
Andrew
Thanks Andrew, much appreciated!
For tapping blind holes with regular taps, you can use old grease(find a tub of expired grease on secondhand market, ebay or similar), just shove the grease into the hole, fill it to the brim and go in... The grease will ``hydraulically`` push the chips out, lubricate the tap and give you a great finish of the threads cut(that is if your tap isn`t dull)... As the tap goes in, the grease is forced out and with the viscosity of grease, the chips can`t just fall in, but are caught by the ``jets`` of grease and carried out of the hole, leaving nothing but a greasy hole behind, ready for a fastener of any sort to nicely thread in and squeeze the grease slowly through the thread clearance - ensuring a rustproof threaded joint for years to come... There is a slight chance of a chip or two remaining in the bottom, but generally, there is enough space for them to not interfere at all with the function of the joint...
Old grease is just the best, be it for that or other such wonky work(deep drilling - pilot drill and fill the pilot with grease, as the large drill gets hotter, it melts the grease - cooling the drill and lubricating the cut and the chips as they get fluted out) or for just smearing it on parts you want to prevent from rusting... Just slather the grease on em and wrap the thing in clingwrap... It can also be used to store bearings, just cake the damn thing fully with grease and voila, no rust... When you need the bearing, purge the grease with solvent of choice and lubricate the bearing accordingly to type and usecase... Just don`t use contaminated grease, it can be old, but it has to be clean... Or just buy the cheapest grease for bearings and chains you can find... If it`s new, it`s likely clean enough for aforementioned uses...
All the best and kind regards!
Steuss
Some great tips there, thanks for that, I'll be sure to try.
Very nice work - I've looked at some of the Hemingway kits and have considered having a go at one of them, and the price looks good too. Nice to see that it appears to be little problem shipping to the west side of the pond. I've purchased from RDG Tools and had good shipping time.
Thanks Jim, much appreciated. Yes I couldn't recommend Hemingway more highly, great plans and all the bits you need to finish the project.
Great video. Looks like you could solve a few issues by moving the drill guide mount down to the end of the block. That way your clamp could sit at 90* to the part. If the clamp is at a 90* to the part, you could then cut a V groove into the bottom of the hold down to better hold round stock. This would also give more room for the chuck.
Thanks for the feedback. Yes I think moving the drill guide might well be an improvement to the design as it is in the way when clamping round stock.
That turned out really nice. It would be really handy for making small Parts, like for a small Steam Engine. Very nice Job on the Machining. These are great projects for Learning, plus you get a nice Tool in the end. Thanks for making these Videos.😁👍👍
Thanks for watching!
Great to see this being made, have a look at the Hemingway knurler
Thanks! Yes, I’ve bought the knurling tool kit already. It’ll be the subject of an upcoming video so stay tuned!
@@joneseymakes I have made this, much better than the cheapo ones. I like the fine straight knurls
Wow....really nice device...hadn't seen anything like this before
Thanks, it was a lot of fun to make.
That turned out really well. Great video. I am on my 2nd Heningway kits build at the moment.
Regards.
Steve.
Cheers Steve, what kits are you doing?
@@joneseymakes I did an 8 part video on the Sensitive knurling tool. At present i have posted 4 video's on the Large bore lathe steady rest. Still quite a bit to do on that.
Regards.
Steve.
@@Steviegtr52 I think I watched those a while back, I'll check them out again. I'll be doing the knurling tool at some point too.
I throughly enjoy your videos! I would love to make some of the things that you have shown.
Thanks, really appreciate the feedback!
Great video
Thanks, much appreciated!
Nice JIG, excellent workmanship, finish and details. I have some doubts about the parallelism of the tool which could also lead to an error on the z axis. Personally, I would have used a half sphere instead of the semi-cone as a tailstock. However, my compliments.
Thanks. Always interesting to hear different approaches, thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for the video, nice job, and would be a good weekend project, I made the Hemingway knurling tool, couple of weeks ago, that's a fun project, and you are right, the dwg's and notes are good,.
Thanks Gary, yes I bought the knurling tool too and that will be the subject of a future video. Any tips before I start the build?
@@joneseymakes I made a little holding fixture for the rotary table (mild steel black, 75 x 6 mm) for milling all the radius's (i started following you on insta, couple of shots there ) and used M5 instead of the BA taps, 3/8 BSF hard to find in Aus also. Gary
@@garybodnar1085 Thanks Gary, I'll check out the photos on Instagram
@@garybodnar1085 What's your instagram handle?
Very nice build and video 😊💪👍
Thanks man! New video coming soon!
Place a strip of spring steel sheet in the bottom of the recessed channel to prevent the drill from going through to the fixture
Thanks for the tip!
Well done. Nice relevant-point type instruction. I really liked the file work you showed though. It’s one of my favorite tools and want to understand it better.
For example, why it spins on one side causing a bit of consciousness to its orientation. Whereas argued its just an inevitable result of quenching, that ‘arching’ seems to play into the usefulness of the tool, for example, handmade chamfering. Hope you can share insight to that.
But again, thanks.
Thanks John, appreciate the feedback.
Superb presentation! But is the hole in the drill guide really drilled to 3/8 inch? It looks about half that size, almost matching in diameter the 4mm slot drill you use on the base...
Thanks, yes it is, but it has the hardened bushing inserted into it to guide the drill which has. a much smaller through hole.
Well done mate, cracking video. Pump out a few more of these and you'll be 10k subs in no time at all.
Cheers, let’s hope so! There’s plenty more videos in the pipeline.
Right…. Ur good at this bro. Just keep being you and you’ll be fine. I look forward to watching you succeed.
@@joegahn5036 Thanks man!
Just found your channel this last week and watched all of the vids, great job, love your close up filming and clear speech, reminds me of Click springs videos.
I’ve just bought the Hemingway tool post grinder kit to build. The only thing that stands out to me from your videos and this tool post grinder is all the old school imperial measurements that only the US keeps pushing. I only work with metric on both my manual mill and lathe, and my CNC mill. It’s a real pain having to go through the drawings changing everything to a metric equivalent number.
I think Hemingway should offer either metric or old school drawings when you purchase a kit from them.
Great vids, what’s your next project going to be? I would like to buy and build the Quorn Tool grinder, but that is a lot of number changing to build that!
Thanks Rob, I'd be interested to hear how you get on with the tool post grinder, do you have any specific projects in mind that you need that for? I too prefer metric but I don't mind too much working in imperial. What I do find a pain is converting fractional measurements from the drawings to decimal measurements that I can work my DROs with. I'll be building the graduating tool from Hemingway next
@@joneseymakes hi mate, so the tool post grinder arrived a couple of days ago, I was amazed how big the box was!! There are a lot of aluminium castings in there, it’s sure going to be a lot of work and a fun project!
The reason for getting it is there’s a batch of parts I need to make from a discontinued product and I know I can sell a bunch of them. I need to be able to grind the final diameters accurately and between centres in heat treated silver steel (Drill Rod)
@@MrRctintin That sounds like an interesting project!
could you review your mill?
Sure, will do. Might take a while to get to it but I will.
can you explain the tailstock die holder ?
Thank you. BR Michael
Sure thing, probably a little difficult to explain in a comment but I will be doing a full build video on that in the next few weeks
Very interesting project, can we get them in the USA? Great video, keep'um coming.
Thanks! I’m pretty sure they ship to the USA, although it might be more economical on shipping to get them to send you the plans and to buy the bar stock locally. I’d recommend contacting Hemingway kits direct. All the best and thanks for watching.
I enquired with Hemingway kits and they do ship to the USA. Apparently the shipping costs are reasonable and it's quite fast. You can buy this kit from the following link, hope that helps. www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/Finger_Plate_Kit.html
@@joneseymakes thanks man.
No problem
Nice work! New sub here !
Thanks, much appreciated!
6:35 the struggle is real! Spray some WD40 on the vise jaw and that angle block will stick to it.
Shortly after, you mention that noting the position of the DRO will take it to the same depth. 🛑 I've been here! Unless you set a stop on the left of that slope, It's not going to re-reference to the same height. Sorry to be that guy.😋
Disregarding the smart-ass comment, good vid. 😁👍
Thanks for the WD40 tip! Yes, you’re right on the DRO comment. I think what I did was to note the depth after touching off, which wasn’t clear from my comments! Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching!
What kind of mill do you have? Is it a G0755 by any chance?
It’s a warco Super Major. It’s most likely the same as the G0755 I imagine. I think lots of companys rebrand generic Chinese machines.
👍👍👍
nicely done, looks great, now that was cherry red a little too hot maybe
Thanks! Yes, that was definitely hotter than I wanted. Still hardened well though.
@@joneseymakes as you said in your other video is looks hotter than it is, i do cherry red with dim lighting and until it no longer attracts to a magnet, i also found water works better to quench tool steel and keep moving the part to prevent vapour collecting (bubbles around the part) stops it quenching quickly, then anneal to straw, great videos btw
@@pickwizard-aka-Stevie Thanks! Great advice, I'll try that next time.
I had to google knackered... lol
Haha! Yes, apologies. That’s my British vernacular showing through!
@@joneseymakes its all good fun
Yes indeed :-)
😂 Or as they say in cockney ..Cream Crackered ! 😂
If the clamp ran in a tee slot it wouldn't get in the way of cross drilling.
The clamp is offset from the cross drilling hole so doesn't get in the way.