How to DOT & DAB plasterboard onto a brick wall ready for plastering or dry lining - Step by Step
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ม.ค. 2024
- Hi everyone,
Thanks for clicking on this video. Here I demonstrate all you need to know about dotting and dabbing (sticking plasterboard to a wall ready for skimming)
I run through the process in which will help you on any domestic refurbishment or self build project.
Please let me know in the comments if you have any questions and I will do my best to help.
Thanks for watching!
Ash - The Plasterer
Come and say hi on insta -
/ ashtheplasterer
If you're interested in getting in touch, please fill in a contact form on either of my work websites:
anichollsplastering.co.uk
or
www.nichollsvenetianplasterin...
Below are the tools I used in this video (or as near to as possible) they are Amazon affiliate links, they will cost you no more and I will get a small commission!
Happy shopping!
• Ox 1800mm spirit level - amzn.to/48pyh2G
• Faithful trowel - amzn.to/4aPhrfd
• Marshaltown hawk - amzn.to/3tFkx4V
• Bucket trowel - amzn.to/3RRJtyb
• Tough tub for mixing - amzn.to/41LXu4Q
• Water buckets - amzn.to/41L3ScJ
• Dewalt pouch - amzn.to/3HaVycW
• Stanley 5m tape measure - amzn.to/3RR7qWt
• Ox utility knife - amzn.to/41SelTF
• Plasterboard rasp - amzn.to/48q5P0I
• Mikita 240v mixing drill - amzn.to/3vo3pRz
![How To Dot And Dab A Wall - Complete Guide - Plasterboard - Drylining A Wall [Plastering Tutorial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zHl4Ndg-TUs/mqdefault.jpg)
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.77[2/2] "รับทราบ" แก๊งเพื่อนรัก 10 ปี ที่ไปไหนก็มีตำนาน!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ifc0ofD51B0/mqdefault.jpg)
Masterclass. Logical, clear, concise, meticulous. Just what I need for the walls in my cellar.
Thanks mate, and I hope it helped you with your project. Best of luck in the cellar
Ash
Hope you are using a tanking system before dabbing boards 🤔
I'm just about to attempt to convert my garage into a laundry room for her 😅 so here I am
Oh good luck mate! I’m sure you’ll smash it if you haven’t already 💪🏼
Good video. Well explained..thankyou
Thank you mate. Glad you enjoyed
Ash
Thanks for taking the time to make this tutorial. Your help is greatly appreciated 😁👍
You’re welcome mate, and thank you for watching
Ash
At last somebody who puts their boards on correctly ...horizontal and staggered brick slip joints.. well done 👍
Thanks Harry!! Have a good weekend mate
Ash
This guy defiantly makes it a lot easier than what it is, a true example of mastering there trade well done mate I’ve just done my bungalow and it’s messy buisnuess still pulling bit of adhesive out my hair now 😂😂
It sure is a messy one! I’ve been doing it years and still have to pull it out if my hair… and beard 😂 hope it all went well in the bungalow, and thanks for watching
Ash
@@AshThePlasterer haha brillant 🙌😂
What a great tutorial. I have my daughter's garage to do which is brick wall, i now feel confident after watching this thank you.
Hi Richard!! Glad you found it useful and best of luck with the garage
Ash
Thanks for posting this sir - helps me massivley as just about to do my garage and needed some clear guidance
You’re welcome mate, hope the garage goes well!
Thanks you for watching
Ash
Great video I’m in Aussie and have a scillion roof lounge brick 8mx4m wall to do, might be a bit of a challenge with the height, cheers 👍
Good content ash. Great help for anyone learning the trade 👍🏼
Thank you mate! Appreciate the watch and comment! Have a good evening
Ash
Nice job m8
Like the rubbing of the two plaster boards. Nice tip
Good luck with channel
Thank you mate, much appreciated! Yeah, handy little trick that, saves a bit if time here and there
Thanks for watching
Ash
Great video. Ive never seen this done. I picked up some great tips when measuring and cutting the boards and always wondered how much adhesive dot and dab spacing was needed. Thanks for sharing :)
Thanks mate. Glad you picked up some tip! And thanks for watching
Ash
Fantastic video!
Thanks Andy! Much appreciated mate. Have a good evening
Ash
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills. You're a legend 👏
Thank you mate, and you’re welcome 😎
This is a brilliant video. I've had an under stairs cupboard I've been putting off for so long and this makes me feel like I can give it a go.
Thanks mate, really appreciate it 🙌🏻 good luck with the cupboard 🤞🏼
Precise. Great video. 👍
Thanks Steve! Much appreciated
Ash
you made it look so easy, thank you!
Thank you. Plenty of practice 😅
Top video mate👍🏻
Thank you mate, glad you enjoyed it! 👌🏼
Brilliant
Thank you sir 🫡
Great work that👍
Cheers mate
Legend, thanks mate 🙌🏻
Explained very well. Thanks
great stuff cool video
Thank you mate! Glad you enjoyed it, and thanks for watching
Ash
nice tutorial, cheers
Thanks Kevin, much appreciated mate!
Ash
Good informative video 👍
Thanks Gaz! Hope it helped! Have a good weekend
Ash
Master love it
Thank you 🙏🏼💪🏼
thanks for the video
You’re welcome, hope you enjoyed
Ash
This is amazing I looove to watch you plastering!! 😍 Will you come and do my living room pls haha xx
Book me in!! 😁
You are so skilled! @@AshThePlasterer
Wait, what?! AshOutdoors is a plasterer?! How did I not know this? 🤔🤣. Great video mate, doing a bit more plastering at work recently and this was really helpful, cheers 🙌🏻
Ahhh haaa my secret is out! You found me lol! Yes, im a simple old spread mate! Thanks for watching the video
Ash
Great content. I heard a trick for those sockets where you take the facia off, then rub a pencil around the rim of the backbox, then push the plaster board onto the backbox where it's going to be and the pencil transfers onto the back of the plaster board. Then all you have to do is cut it out :)
Yes!!! Thats the the method I use when the faces are off! Use an off cut of board and chalk up then a k box then place it, give it a good bang in the right place 😅 and like you say, its marked on the back of the board. Its a much more accurate way of doing it too 👌🏼
Thanks for watching mate, and glad you enjoyed it!
Ash
@@AshThePlastererCan you do a video on that too?
Nice!
I’m a spread myself mate ! I’m gonna start doing this on my channel I think! Good luck with it anyway! Gave you a like and subbed! 👊
Thank you mate! And thanks for watching!
Ash
@@AshThePlasterer 👊
Glad I found this. Was getting nervous about doing son's bathroom. What plaster board do you recommend to tile on in shower cubicle.
Glad it helped mate. If your tiling over plasterboard I’d recommend a skimmed finish on moisture resistant boards (green colour) ideally you’d be best off tiling onto hardy backer boards, a cement based boards. However these can not be skimmed on.
Ash
What timeframe do you have to work with your mortar/glue before it begins to set?
thanks was really helpful. i have old falt with very uneven surface would it be use to try and skim it to make it even as possible then use dot & dab method? thanks.
I’d just dot and dab it mate. Wouldn’t be worth filling anything out in my opinion. Just use bigger/smaller dabs where needed.
Hope this helps 👍🏼
Thank you so much for the information, is it ok to dot and dap and tile on the plaster board ?
It is, I think tilers prefer it skimmed though and probably better for water resistance. The boards aren’t very durable when wet
Hope this helps
Ash
Very good - Except your PVA dilution is still a bit strong for letting the bricks breath (possible condensation build-up) ... 10 - 1 still does the job you were looking for 🤠
Thanks mate, ohhh i don’t think I’ve ever used a 10-1 with pva before 😀 I didn’t completely seal it so im sure it fine. Roller was a masonry one so would have been an un even coat.
Legend for watching all my vids mate, thank you 🙏🏼
Great explanation tanx for the upload, what nails did you use to hold the board against the wall?
Thank you 🙏🏼 I used 40mm clout nails to pin the boards up 👌🏼 hope this helps, and thank you for watching
Ash
Hello Ash,renovating house at the minute, builder wants to use this system, walls are rough,is this system skimmed after fitting plasterboard
Hi! Yes, I skimmed these boards afterwards. Hope this helps
Ash
SBR would be better than PVA on this wall. Also no dots added for level? And not enough adhesive between each dab to form complete seal behind the board. Not a bad effort though👍🏻
Hello mate, thanks for watching and commenting. I guess it’s personal preference with pva and sbr. In my opinion sbr would seal the brickwork too muc much not leaving enough key for the adhesive. Also I did explain in the video about it not needing solid dabs (as you would on site to seal for air testing) this is plenty for refurb work… those boards aren’t going anywhere 😅
Not sure what you mean by no level dots? I’ve not heard of that before? I always just use my level to tap it level… do you mean where you stick a couple of squares on the wall 1st to get a level, let that set and then stick to those??
Appreciate your input mate
Ash
He means what you are doing is just dabbing dots are used to keep the boards level and stop you tapping too hard and leaving hollows in the boards@@AshThePlasterer
Thanks for the socket measurement trick. How come no insulation behind the boards? How do you do insulated boards too? I'm still learning!
Would like too see window reveals done aswell. Cheers m8.
The house has cavity wall insulation, also this was an internal wall so no need, unless the customer requests it. Insulation boards are stuck the same way as this, they need to be stored really flat though as they can bend and it’s near on impossible to straighten them, they’re also very expensive!
A few others have also asked about window reveals, may well get a video sorted for that soon
Hope this helps mate
Ash
Thanks one last question. I've got a old internal lath and plaster stud wall... Removed all the lath and plaster... Can I use insulation roll and then then board it, or just board..? Worried about it sweating.
Thanks
@@Hew.Jarsol yes, board one side, insulate it, then board the other side. If it’s an internal wall you won’t need to worry about moisture
Hope this helps
Cross joint oh dear oh dear
Fine on a small wall like that mate, different story for ceilings with joists moving 👍🏼
Thanks for watching Brett
Ash
A little knowledge is dangerous
Sure you have cross joints on big walls over 9ft .. I never seen it as a problem.. America does nothing but cross joints... there is no rule to it... big ceilings be the same...
How long after sealing the wall with pva would u then apply the adhesive for the boards ?
Hi mate, it was such a diluted mix that by the time you’d cut the boards and got set up it would be good to go. The bricks and mortar were extremely dry too so not long at all. I’d say as little as 10 minutes
Hope this helps
Ash
@@AshThePlasterer does the Pva need to be dry before hand or still like tacky ?
@@craigwillz77 it won’t get tacky if the solution is diluted this much. It will be dry to touch. It’s basically just to keep the dust and loose material at bay so it adheres to the wall
@@AshThePlasterer thanks mate appreciate the replies..deffo a follow here 🙌🏻
I have always wondered the reason for dot and dabbing plasterboard for exterior or brick walls. Would it not just be easier and more durable to plaster it. I can understand with interior stud drywalls but why on bricks or breeze blocks. Why not plaster it straight because the plasterboards still need skim of plaster before sealing and paining don't they?
Hi mate. It’s probably more preferable these days as it’s much quicker and cheaper. I could dot and dab and skim this size room in a day if I wanted to. If you were wet plastering in sand and cement it would need to set overnight before skimming and much more labour heavy.
Also drying time before painting. Skimmed plasterboards can be painted up to a week quicker than floated walls. But I agree regarding the durability, not as solid as a floated wall. All depends on what the customer wants really
Thanks for your explanation mate. So I take it you can't plaster using multifinish straight to bricks and breeze blocks without wet plastering with sand and cement first? Also why do some people build frame on brick wall and then nail the boards rather than dot and dab when this does the same job with less work and materials?
No, multifinish is only designed to be a few millimetres thick, it would badly crack if you were to use it straight on the blocks. Its would also cost a fortune 😅 I’m guessing people who build a frame on the wall with wood aren’t confident to get a flat job with dot and dab, again personal preferencec really.
You’re welcome mate, hope it helps
Ash
Good Job. You just forgot too check margin on door frame
Thank you mate! 🙌🏻
Why are you using 6x3 boards 🤔
Hi Ian,
Like I said in the video, the walls were over 2.4m and also I can only get these in my van 😅 was just this room to dab out so didn’t really justify a delivery
Thanks for watching mate
Ash
It's easy to stick a wall with flat boards and no pipes. Don't try this with bent boards. Should of staggered the long straight joint.
No one likes a bendy board
Not enough dab
Plenty for this refurb. Customer wanted it as tight as possible, hence why the dabs are small. Agreed on sit or new build I’d need more 👍🏼
Over the years dot and dab lost its actual meaning. The dot process takes far to long so now its just dab not dot and dab
Yeah true, the names just stuck though hasn’t it. Dabbing doesn’t have the same ring to it for me 😅 thanks for watching pete
Hello mate , what is the dot process, please ?
Thanks
@jaycfc6955 go to ,on the trowel ,youtube ,he's got one explaining in detail
Thats not dotting and dabbing. That's just dabbing.
Ok 👍🏼
Should be illegal to make songs 2 minutes long. 5 minimum or you dont get paid
🫳🏼🎤
Wellcome to the hamster 🛞. Very Good video, if you can, in the next vid show the public how stick and square window reveals, 🖖
Thanks joe! Thats a great idea, probably one of the trickier jobs. Have a few other videos lined up so will put that on the list!
Thanks for watching
Ash