Thanks both….. I’ve got a self-build project.. Im just about to take 3weeks of work to fit 260 plasterboards .Your ir video is amazing I’ve watched it 3 times. Your brilliant 👍🏼
Constant bead/ribbon/picture frame round perimeter and any wall penetrations for different reasons. 1 Building Regs compliant. 2 Fire break....fire safety, helps to reduce fast spread of fire up the wall. 3 Airtightness...reduces draughts and makes building more energy efficient. 4 Constant bead at the bottom supports the skirting board. It might look neat, but these methods are devised for a reason. One national builder had to go back on dozens of new builds because the picture frame method had not been used, there was a fire in one house and it had no fire break, burnt down. Etc. Minimises risk.
From NHBC “installed with a continuous ribbon of adhesive to the perimeter of external walls, and around openings and services, to prevent air infiltration.” Even British gypsum say the same on the bag. Plaster board adhesive isn’t a fire barrier, a plastered wall/ceiling gives about 30-60 mins of protection it may slow fire but it won’t stop it. I remember an article a while back around house builder who hadn’t but in fire barriers, I don’t know if that’s what you were referring to, these are designed to slow down or stop the spread of fire from one building to another to allow people to get out.
That's interesting. I watched one tutorial where the chap said it was to prevent flexing/subsequent cracking of the top skim. The wall he did in his video was also very out of square though as it was an older building, so he had to use a lot of compound to space the bottom.
Great video, I've installed plenty of drywall but never over masonry, some good tips there, ignore the keyboard know-alls, most have only handled a different type of tool ...
We just filled it with a strip of board. Usually there wouldn't be a gap but due to the ceilings being taller than 1 full board it just ended up that way
How NOT to dot and dab a wall. Do you guys never read the manufacturers instructions ? Full solid perimeter bead plus around openings and service penetrations. Slag me if if you want but it's just a cost saving exercise. Do it right and we will all save energy.
thanks guys , I've got to do the same in my new kitchen extension, I wasn't looking forward to it ceiling then the walls :( but you made it look so easy and simple to do ,as I think i was over thinking it all 😃😃👍👍, just one thing can you use the dot and dab stuff as a bit of a filler around sockets and switches extract?
I thought I need a solid bead all around the whole wall and around the socket boxes and any vents for fire protection and dabs everywhere else or is the beading just for new properties that are pressure tested.
Hi, did you ever find an answer (on TH-cam or anywhere else) on how to dot & dab that that part of the wall? I'm trying to do something similar too. Thanks
Nice video with some useful tips. However, I noticed that no cavity closers were installed before you boarded over them which will encourage cold bridging.
Really helpful, have this job to do myself soon however I have a pitched roof to dot and dab above the steel for our bi fold, how would you go about holding that in place as can’t exactly rest it off the floor
Full line of adhesive around the perimeter and openings on an external wall to close the cavity. It’s not overkill it’s the right way to do it for air tightness. Internal walls no problem. Don’t teach if you don’t know what your doing.
Hes already been pulled on that one mate and has said hes doing another video 🙈 easy to criticise I suppose unfortunately the average Joe will take this as gospel.
I'd always tend towards using 12.5mm board rather than 9.5mm just because it's basically the same price and it's just far sturdier. That said if you need it 9.5mm for a specific reason such as limited space, it's fine to use.
Thanks. Yes and no. If the wall is painted I'd dot and dab but also install some fixings to be safe. You can install some fixings into the wall before you board it. And leave the head of the fixing around 5mm proud, then your dots and dabs can be applied over the head of the screws, creating a mechanical key to the wall.
Quick questions. I’ve got to d&d a brick wall. 1 do I need to pva it first? Stripped old plaster off and brushed down. 2 is there any issue with offering the board right up to the ceiling? It’s a kitchen where units will hide the bottom, no skirts to go back on 👍👍
PVA is fine. Right up to ceiling is good... but don't do it like these guys!!!! There should be a solid line of dab along the board verticals... fire/smoke
Nice job as always buddy, only thing i do different is i chalk line the floor so i know how far the boards are off the wall and also helps stay straight.... 👍
Hi mate....is it normal to leave the gap at the top ? I will be attempting this but wasn't sure how to lift the boards up tight to ceiling ...but you have a clear gap ?
Usually an average size wall would be smaller than a board so you wouldn't have a gap at the top. This wall was a bit taller than usual and so I needed to add the strip at the top
Hmmm, it quite possibly could be the case but it's not something we have ever heard of. That said we don't do an awful lot of site Plastering. Do you have any information you can link to? Obviously if this is the case we need to make sure we adapt our practices!
@@ryanseeley Sorry not anything legally wise no but I don't plasterboard.I would check regs if you are not sure as you are in the trade and company ect👍
It keeps the walls separate from the floor. They are removed after the walls are stuck solid. That way if the floor ever floods or has a damp problem or someone has a spill. The moisture won't be able to climb the walls.
Mainly to separate the floor from the wall, that way if the floor ever has a spill or minor flood it won't damage the wall. The skirting boards will bridge this gap once the room is complete.
Hi, yes you can and the block wall you see is the inner layer of 2 courses of bricks with a gap in between filled with insulation. So no, as long as the surface is adequately insulated you shouldn't get moisture on the drywall
Thanks for the vid! I am thinking of dot and dabbing /over boarding an internal wall. I want it as thin as possible. If I use 9.5mm board, how thick will it be with the adhesive? Cheers Steve
Yes, as long as the insulation board was paper backed and not foil backed. You would use the same method with the addition of adding a couple of fixings per board to hold on case of a fire, as far as I'm aware
nice neat job lads however that was just dabbing dots involve levelling the wall like in old buildings where the walls lean in or out or are twisted in some way
I live in Australia but originally British. My old property is under renovation. Can you explain to my aussie husband why the Brits plaster skim the gyprock plaster board. It is regulations or just common practice. In Australia they tape up the plasterboard joints, fill and sand smooth and off we go to painting. Its been bugging him for years.
We skim as an alternative to taping and filling the joints. The main reasons are durability, plus the increased fire and acoustic value. A skim finish is a superior finish to tape and jointing but much of the world, including some areas in the UK, choose to tape and joint the boards to save on cost and the higher skill level required to do the work.
great vid guys really enjoying the content , just in process a of full house reno and i have started to use a multi tool to cut boxes out of board game changer for me super neat cuts and can take incremental bits off without worrying about pulling the paper back, you tried before ?👍. atb simon
Thanks Simon. Ah that's cool we have a multitool but not tried it on sockets, we will give that a go! I think you can actually get a socket shaped but for a mutlitool that cuts the whole socket out in one go. Don't know how good they are but it's a cool idea! Thanks for watching!
Yes in an ideal world that would be the perfect way to position the board. Often it will be 5mm-10mm proud of the socket which is also fine. What you really DONT want is the socket box proud of the board!
@@ryanseeley Also is the metal back box chased into the brick wall or is it just screwed into the brick wall? Because if it’s chased into the brick wall , then the box will get lost behind the plaster board if that makes sense?
Does that cable down to the wall box need metal capping before plastering, or is it low voltage/network/antenna? (I know squat, I'm just a DIY'er thats trying to learn by doing up my house!)
Hi, so this is actually quite an interesting thing. The cable only requires capping if it runs outside of the prescribed routes. So as long and it runs horizontally or vertically (which it does in this case) from the socket, then you do NOT need to cap the cables. This at least applies to the UK as far as I am aware
Would like to learn plastering, I enjoyed the video, but guys , can you make a video how to make a ,,fake wall" ? If i'm saying it correctly. Many thanks. Waiting for a new one
Very helpful video thanks guys. I'm going to be doing this in our basement soon. What would you say is the maximum depth of dab possible? There pipes that need be hidden.
The advantage of solid dabbing - ie and unbroken line of adhesive around the board - is that it helps prevent convection/leakage of air! Ask me how I know... I'm having to go back and seal loads of leaks in my 20 year old home - leaks that have cost me a fortune in energy costs over the years.
You are correct, I made this video before I was taught the correct industry way of doing it. I left it up as a way to show the basic principles but I am due an updated video. Thanks for your comment
I thought the continuous solid boarder was fire code to prevent fire travelling behind the board to the ceiling joists? Also I read that mechacal fixings were required to hold the boards to the wall in the event of a fire. Apparently there's been many cases of people being trapped by falling boards when the paper backing burns. This is only what I've read and do myself when renovating my own houses.
As far as I'm aware there is no fire regs that require a solid boarder. You do nee to use mechanical fixings on insulation backed plasterboard, but I don't believe this is the case for standard board.
@@ryanseeley I meant to add that I really enjoy your vids especially the jig you made for the Arch in your previous vid. It's amazing how much of the old skills that have been forgotten by modern trades. We should all read more about the traditional methods. 👍
Nice video lads, explains well! I need to re dot and dab some walls our builders messed up and this will help! Think I’ll start on the smaller manageable bits first 😂
Great video chaps, I'm a 52 year old diy'er and love to learn from guys like you. Better than the BBC.
Thanks both….. I’ve got a self-build project.. Im just about to take 3weeks of work to fit 260 plasterboards .Your ir video is amazing I’ve watched it 3 times. Your brilliant 👍🏼
I'm doing a self build as well. Finally onto the plasterboard. How did it go for you. Have you finished the job?
I am attempting the same, hopefully it isn't too bad.
Constant bead/ribbon/picture frame round perimeter and any wall penetrations for different reasons.
1 Building Regs compliant.
2 Fire break....fire safety, helps to reduce fast spread of fire up the wall.
3 Airtightness...reduces draughts and makes building more energy efficient.
4 Constant bead at the bottom supports the skirting board.
It might look neat, but these methods are devised for a reason.
One national builder had to go back on dozens of new builds because the picture frame method had not been used, there was a fire in one house and it had no fire break, burnt down. Etc. Minimises risk.
Will always perimeter for fire break reasons and everything else pointed out
From NHBC “installed with a continuous ribbon of adhesive to the perimeter of external walls, and around openings and services, to prevent air infiltration.” Even British gypsum say the same on the bag. Plaster board adhesive isn’t a fire barrier, a plastered wall/ceiling gives about 30-60 mins of protection it may slow fire but it won’t stop it.
I remember an article a while back around house builder who hadn’t but in fire barriers, I don’t know if that’s what you were referring to, these are designed to slow down or stop the spread of fire from one building to another to allow people to get out.
I always laugh when these experts' don't even get the simple basics of dabbing continuous dabs where required'.
i couldn't find this in the building regs
It's pointless, you only need 6 dabs top to bottom and it will hold just fine, no need for a solid dab all the way around.
I think one of the best dot/dab/ plaster broad videos I've seen....very insightful 👌
Can't beleive you dabbed the wall like that and uploaded it 👀
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👏👏👏👏
Are you a pro I need to speak to someone who knows what there doing before I start a project x
Hi, out of internet why is there no insulation added in the roof space before plasterboarding?
There is insulation above the board - it's called a warm roof
The solid dab is for the air test on new builds. Only needed on external walls
That's interesting. I watched one tutorial where the chap said it was to prevent flexing/subsequent cracking of the top skim. The wall he did in his video was also very out of square though as it was an older building, so he had to use a lot of compound to space the bottom.
@@1987pagey it has no impact on the spread of a fire
This is a great video, everything is well explained and clearly, without slang! Good choice of music too.
Great video, I've installed plenty of drywall but never over masonry, some good tips there, ignore the keyboard know-alls, most have only handled a different type of tool ...
Excellent video .. straight and to the point. Well done boys
I like boarding. I just did my front room with 50mm PIR and PB on an old solid wall. 80mm screws. Much warmer now. .
Plasterers or tape and jointers going to love those gaps at the top
I'm doing a garage soon and was wondering if I need to insulate the floor first before I do the wall ? Or does it not matter.
I think you would usually insulate the floor before doing the walls, so the walls don't bridge the floor insulation 👍
Cool. Im a drywall guy. I never seen a dab against a cinderblock wall. Im used to metal stud framing but your dab technique works 👍
Thats damn good work to be honest, very clean workman and working methodically
My goodness you guys are genius 👏 God bless 🙏 you all for showing us different idears and tutorials
I'd like to get in to this trade any advice on how or can you point me towards the right direction
Hi,enjoyed the video,just wondered why you leave a gap at the top and how you filled it?
Tnankyou
We just filled it with a strip of board. Usually there wouldn't be a gap but due to the ceilings being taller than 1 full board it just ended up that way
How NOT to dot and dab a wall. Do you guys never read the manufacturers instructions ? Full solid perimeter bead plus around openings and service penetrations. Slag me if if you want but it's just a cost saving exercise. Do it right and we will all save energy.
Exactly
over here in The Philippines our wall paper is 'stickybacked plastic' can this be applied to plasterboard directly?
thanks guys , I've got to do the same in my new kitchen extension, I wasn't looking forward to it ceiling then the walls :( but you made it look so easy and simple to do ,as I think i was over thinking it all 😃😃👍👍, just one thing can you use the dot and dab stuff as a bit of a filler around sockets and switches extract?
I thought I need a solid bead all around the whole wall and around the socket boxes and any vents for fire protection and dabs everywhere else or is the beading just for new properties that are pressure tested.
Well there it is...a very impressive guide. Well done lads
Thanks 👍
could you do a video on how to dot and dab the wall to the right with the sliding doors .thanks great video.
Hi, did you ever find an answer (on TH-cam or anywhere else) on how to dot & dab that that part of the wall? I'm trying to do something similar too. Thanks
Cut the reveals first make sure there all even and squar thrn just put your full boards to the reveals 👌💥💯
Nice video with some useful tips. However, I noticed that no cavity closers were installed before you boarded over them which will encourage cold bridging.
How would they be installed without them being in place before you board over them
Does the boards have to be plastered,or can you get away without plastering the boards?
Really helpful, have this job to do myself soon however I have a pitched roof to dot and dab above the steel for our bi fold, how would you go about holding that in place as can’t exactly rest it off the floor
Full line of adhesive around the perimeter and openings on an external wall to close the cavity. It’s not overkill it’s the right way to do it for air tightness. Internal walls no problem. Don’t teach if you don’t know what your doing.
Hes already been pulled on that one mate and has said hes doing another video 🙈 easy to criticise I suppose unfortunately the average Joe will take this as gospel.
How many bags of adhesive did you use for that wall boys?
Thanks for the vid. Some very useful pointers there.
Would 9.5mm board be suitable for that wall?
I'd always tend towards using 12.5mm board rather than 9.5mm just because it's basically the same price and it's just far sturdier. That said if you need it 9.5mm for a specific reason such as limited space, it's fine to use.
Any hints on doing this on a (prefab) metal skinned wall?
Brilliant video question can I use plaster board adhesive on a painted concrete wall ? Thanks Brian
Thanks. Yes and no. If the wall is painted I'd dot and dab but also install some fixings to be safe.
You can install some fixings into the wall before you board it. And leave the head of the fixing around 5mm proud, then your dots and dabs can be applied over the head of the screws, creating a mechanical key to the wall.
Are the boards the same as in the US with brown paper? does the paper fail on the back from getting wet from the adhesive?
If you're boarding around a window does it matter if you board the reveals first or do the wall boards first ? thanks
Quick questions. I’ve got to d&d a brick wall. 1 do I need to pva it first? Stripped old plaster off and brushed down. 2 is there any issue with offering the board right up to the ceiling? It’s a kitchen where units will hide the bottom, no skirts to go back on 👍👍
PVA is fine. Right up to ceiling is good... but don't do it like these guys!!!! There should be a solid line of dab along the board verticals... fire/smoke
Nice job as always buddy, only thing i do different is i chalk line the floor so i know how far the boards are off the wall and also helps stay straight.... 👍
That's a great idea, I've had a few people mention that so I'm gonna give it a go. Thanks si
@@ryanseeley guy who taught me did it and also put lines up the wall and across the ceiling also....
hi, can this done be don neatly / with minimal mess?
Hi mate....is it normal to leave the gap at the top ? I will be attempting this but wasn't sure how to lift the boards up tight to ceiling ...but you have a clear gap ?
Usually an average size wall would be smaller than a board so you wouldn't have a gap at the top. This wall was a bit taller than usual and so I needed to add the strip at the top
@@ryanseeley but if there is small gap few mil and it's filled it won't be an issue ?
No that would be fine. If the gap is bigger than 12mm just sit the board on a bit of plasterboard as a packer
We thought you had to do a continuous bead of material for fire barrier safety!I.e sockets going to shit and then a fire behind the board ect.
Hmmm, it quite possibly could be the case but it's not something we have ever heard of. That said we don't do an awful lot of site Plastering. Do you have any information you can link to? Obviously if this is the case we need to make sure we adapt our practices!
@@ryanseeley Sorry not anything legally wise no but I don't plasterboard.I would check regs if you are not sure as you are in the trade and company ect👍
Any reason why you wouldnt attach them to the wall with screws too?
You laid out the workflow and explained it very clearly.
It is very useful for me who is Thai. Thank you.
Hi, I'm think to do this in my pantry but really not sure if i want to put some shelf to it, what kind of screw should i use and how long?
Drill through the plasterboard into the masonry. 75mm long screw, making sure you knock the Rawl plug into the masonry
fab video. cheers fellas. Can you dot n dab insulated plasterboard too or too heavy?
It depends on the type of insulated board but you usually can, you often have to use a few mechanical fixings per board along with the dot and dab 👍
Cheers chaps, been let down by someone so may have to try this myself .
If you take your time you will be fine
Sold bead around perimeters of board for fire break that's regs.....also better for skirting board instalation
What are the floor packers for chaps?
It keeps the walls separate from the floor. They are removed after the walls are stuck solid. That way if the floor ever floods or has a damp problem or someone has a spill. The moisture won't be able to climb the walls.
Brilliant video guys, thanks as I learned some. 👍
Is there any good reason why you couldnt have just gone ahead, dabbing and sticking, one board at a time, from left to right ?
I suppose adhesive would need to be mixed separately for each panel. Also this method allows for easier leveling whilst the adhesive is still soft.
Nice work. What chemical do you use to apply on the wall to hold the plaster board?
It's called drywall adhesive
Hi guys nice video. Very clear and concise. Why do you leave a gap at the bottom? Thanks.
Mainly to separate the floor from the wall, that way if the floor ever has a spill or minor flood it won't damage the wall. The skirting boards will bridge this gap once the room is complete.
@@ryanseeley thanks for the swift reply
Can you hang drywall like this in the North East USA?? Any issues with condensation or moisture??
Hi, yes you can and the block wall you see is the inner layer of 2 courses of bricks with a gap in between filled with insulation. So no, as long as the surface is adequately insulated you shouldn't get moisture on the drywall
What type of mortar you are using ?
Thanks for the vid! I am thinking of dot and dabbing /over boarding an internal wall. I want it as thin as possible. If I use 9.5mm board, how thick will it be with the adhesive?
Cheers
Steve
The adhesive should be no thicker than 15mm so you would be looking at about 25mm all together
@@ryanseeley thanks for your quick response 🙏
Would you use the same method with insulated plasterboard?
Yes, as long as the insulation board was paper backed and not foil backed. You would use the same method with the addition of adding a couple of fixings per board to hold on case of a fire, as far as I'm aware
Great Video, what kind of adhesive did you use?
nice neat job lads however that was just dabbing dots involve levelling the wall like in old buildings where the walls lean in or out or are twisted in some way
That’s the best dot and dab I’ve seen. Well done lads *****
That was superb. Thank you for sharing that.
I live in Australia but originally British. My old property is under renovation. Can you explain to my aussie husband why the Brits plaster skim the gyprock plaster board. It is regulations or just common practice. In Australia they tape up the plasterboard joints, fill and sand smooth and off we go to painting. Its been bugging him for years.
We skim as an alternative to taping and filling the joints. The main reasons are durability, plus the increased fire and acoustic value. A skim finish is a superior finish to tape and jointing but much of the world, including some areas in the UK, choose to tape and joint the boards to save on cost and the higher skill level required to do the work.
great vid guys really enjoying the content , just in process a of full house reno and i have started to use a multi tool to cut boxes out of board game changer for me super neat cuts and can take incremental bits off without worrying about pulling the paper back, you tried before ?👍.
atb simon
Thanks Simon. Ah that's cool we have a multitool but not tried it on sockets, we will give that a go! I think you can actually get a socket shaped but for a mutlitool that cuts the whole socket out in one go. Don't know how good they are but it's a cool idea! Thanks for watching!
Thanks guy's 🐣
If over 2.4 high, why didn't you just pack up more till the tops were tight, and then put the fillets in under the skirting line?
Because then you would have to leave the wall to set before you could pull the packers out and replace with strips.
Brilliant video lads!! Does the plasterboard fit flush to the edge of that metal back box socket??
Yes in an ideal world that would be the perfect way to position the board. Often it will be 5mm-10mm proud of the socket which is also fine. What you really DONT want is the socket box proud of the board!
@@ryanseeley Also is the metal back box chased into the brick wall or is it just screwed into the brick wall? Because if it’s chased into the brick wall , then the box will get lost behind the plaster board if that makes sense?
Any reason why you don’t baton the wall and then attach the boards to the batons? What would be positive and negatives to this method?
Time and cost
How many bags of P.adhesive were used to stick those 5ish plasterboards?
About 2 - 2.5 in total
How about the echo when you hit it …? I mean when the dots are spread there will be no space between them right !? So no echo
Does that cable down to the wall box need metal capping before plastering, or is it low voltage/network/antenna? (I know squat, I'm just a DIY'er thats trying to learn by doing up my house!)
Hi, so this is actually quite an interesting thing. The cable only requires capping if it runs outside of the prescribed routes.
So as long and it runs horizontally or vertically (which it does in this case) from the socket, then you do NOT need to cap the cables.
This at least applies to the UK as far as I am aware
hi , is this then dry wall tape or is it plaster skimmed , ?
Skimmed but you could do either 👍
@@ryanseeley many thanks
What are you filling the top with and why ?
Would like to learn plastering, I enjoyed the video, but guys , can you make a video how to make a ,,fake wall" ? If i'm saying it correctly. Many thanks. Waiting for a new one
Stupid question, is there supposed to be roof insulation?
excellent tutorial guys...good explanation of details.
Thanks Malcolm 👍
No PVA on the walls?
Solid dab all the way round everytime, stop air leaks or cold air passinf behind whole wall.
if you needed to remove it how would you do so?
Does anyone know what type of material are they using for adhesive?
It's called drywall adhesive 👍
Very helpful video thanks guys. I'm going to be doing this in our basement soon. What would you say is the maximum depth of dab possible? There pipes that need be hidden.
I was always told plasterboard should run length ways because of its grain. That using it in upright position the plaster will crack eventually
The advantage of solid dabbing - ie and unbroken line of adhesive around the board - is that it helps prevent convection/leakage of air! Ask me how I know... I'm having to go back and seal loads of leaks in my 20 year old home - leaks that have cost me a fortune in energy costs over the years.
You are correct, I made this video before I was taught the correct industry way of doing it. I left it up as a way to show the basic principles but I am due an updated video. Thanks for your comment
always taught to stagger the boards, no lines from floor to ceiling.
How much would a job like that normally cost...?
No insulation in the ceiling in 2021? And why no cavity closers?
Hi guys, is it necessary to put drywall screws into plasterboard when it's brick wall?
Absolutely not, no screws required. 👍
I’m a diy man, god you made that look easy & yes i watched all of the video 👍
Thanks. Hope.you enjoyed it
I thought the continuous solid boarder was fire code to prevent fire travelling behind the board to the ceiling joists?
Also I read that mechacal fixings were required to hold the boards to the wall in the event of a fire. Apparently there's been many cases of people being trapped by falling boards when the paper backing burns. This is only what I've read and do myself when renovating my own houses.
As far as I'm aware there is no fire regs that require a solid boarder. You do nee to use mechanical fixings on insulation backed plasterboard, but I don't believe this is the case for standard board.
@@ryanseeley I meant to add that I really enjoy your vids especially the jig you made for the Arch in your previous vid. It's amazing how much of the old skills that have been forgotten by modern trades. We should all read more about the traditional methods. 👍
Where are they in Lagos Nigeria
Do you PVA a painted wall? The paint used on the brick is not gloss or chaulky. I think it's acrylic
Yes score with a knife first or blue grit
fair play boys i learnt bits n bobs from this i was definitely using too much dab
do you need to tape the joints prior to skimming?
Yes, tape joints and then skim!
What was the pink plasterboard?
And surf the board before you cut the strip off for a straighter surf, top work though lads 👍🏼
Are u still plastering havnt seen any videos for a while
Is this strong enough to be tiled on top of
Yes absolutely. It's the standard way boards on block walls are fixed and so is very often tiled on.
spot on, good work.
Great video, need to dot and dab my daughters room, this will help👍
Cowboys all dot dab slabs need a continuous seal around edges its not overkill its to stop draughts heat loss
You are correct about that, I'm now a bit more clued up than back then.
great boarding but no insulation above ceiling
More than happy to subscribe to this channel.
More than happy to have you 👌
Nice video lads, explains well! I need to re dot and dab some walls our builders messed up and this will help!
Think I’ll start on the smaller manageable bits first 😂
Great video.