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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ค. 2024
- Back with another plastering How-to!
People seemed hungry to learn how to plaster so I’ve made another one where I explain how to Dryline using plasterboard adhesive.
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Enjoy. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Just about to do my kitchen with the insulation/plasterboard best demonstration I’ve seen on TH-cam
Great video again, many thanks!
Nice clear honest video. 👍
Really helpful video, which wee will constantly refer back to!!!
Nice one - well-explained and very comprehensive. Good lad! Subscribed!
I appreciate the nice feedback Jon! 😃
Brilliant video mate thank you for that
excellent video. really well put together. thanks for taking the time to help us all out.
Thanks for the kind comment Tony!
I really appreciate it.
Really well examined. I learnt a good few tips here (chalk up the box).
You deserve alot more hits and subscribers as this is far better than a simple speeded up video.
Thank you for the kind words!
I’m glad that you’ve learnt something from it mate. I’m trying to make sure the content I put out is in depth so it can help people really understand the concepts behind the techniques.
Thanks for taking the time to watch it. If there’s any other construction guides you like to see, feel free to suggest something and I’ll see if I can make it happen.
Excellent advice video
Excellent video learned lot from the video but like you said practicing is the way to perfection
Decent vid this. That back box hack is genius!
Appreciate your help & time
Many thanks
Thank you for your time & advice
No problem Qadeer!
Well done 👏
Very insightful 👏 thanks
Excellent!
Excellent 👌 buddy 😊
Top Job again all the best mate 👍
Hsilver dale Thanks for the support!!
Thank you great video!
Thanks David!!
excellent tutorial this
Thank you it's help me a lots ☺😊
Great vid m8
Thanks for sharing
Cheers...🍻
Fair play this video I’ve been laughing at other vids this is correct, no casing in you want a 6inch ish opening either side of door
Great video. What do you do when you have existing door/window trims and the plasterboard raises the height to almost the height of the door trim surround.
Good vid buddy. Looked at a few others, but wanted more info on preperation for breeze blocks, which you covered.
Would SBR be better for breeze blocks as opposed to PVA, or is it overkill? Somebody else recommended a product similar to Blue Grit, but most use PVA. Happy to do job properly and don’t like cutting corners.
Great video, thanks! Attempting to plasterboard the hallway soon, very old brick wall previously plastered, like yours. One question though....is it necessary to chase the brick wall to recess the electrical cables, or cover them in some conduit? It didn't look like you did that in your vid. Cheers!
Hey Jinger - Just found your video. Great work! It's nice and clear and thanks for the explanations. Love the chalk boxing tip. One question I have is how long do you need to leave the PVA / water mix on before commencing the dot and dabs? Would it be possible to PVA the walls and then applying the dot n dabs the next day? Many Thanks
Hi sumoooo, thanks for the kind words!
You can pretty much start drylining straight after you’ve applied the PVA. I prefer to do it this way because if there are any loose particles suspended in the PVA, if the PVA has time to dry fully overnight then it can leave a ‘dusty’ surface so your adhesive won’t stick as well. It can be done if needed - but I prefer it when it’s tacky!
Hi Jinger is that tapered edge board , I’m wanting to level a small wall , but not skim it , just tape and joint compound it , and paint , any tips would help m8 👍
Should i use drywall screws if plasterboard is right on wall? Brickwork or old plaster
Q: is doding a plasterboard fine for tiling onto with all that weight?
cheers
I'm planning on doing my bathroom then tiling all around when it comes to doing around the window it has the wooden casing and sill would you remove this or screw the plasterboard to it. Great video by the way well explained.
Hi Robert, thanks for watching!
If the casement is well attached an not loose, then screwing the board directly to it would save you a lot of time. 😁
Thanks, Jinger! keep up the good work.
11:45, you drew a pop tart. Now im hungry, thanks
Hi mate great video very helpful I'm a electrician been boxing out this job and they are doing the exact same thing but there using 35mm insulation boards on external walls and 12.5mm non insulated boards the walls are pretty level I've chased my 35mm back box in the internal walls to 20mm and fixed the 35mm back boxes direct for external walls when the builder started to dot and dab the external walls it sticks out 70mm is there a reason why they done that ? Luckly there no boxes on the wall they have done but got me worried about rest any advice
Sticking out as in the insulated plasterboards come past your socket so you’ll need longer screws for your socket?
If you ever need to put boxes into insulated boards I’d recommend using the plastic drywall back boxes. You’ll just need to remove some of the insulation where they clip in. It save you using 70mm electrical screws to hold your socket back when you second fix.
@@jinger2224 Hi mate thank you for the advice problem is I can't use a plasterboard box due to the sockets being flat plate Forbes and Lomax do not work well with plasterboard boxes just curious as the site manager said 35mm and a little bit of plaster which I thought was about 45mm maximum and I was happy with that as my sockets would sit just a little bit shy in the plasterboard but ended up 70mm didn't think 40mm of dot and dab is a little bit 🤔
scott miln sorry for the late reply mate. I assume you’ve sorted it out now? If they were flush plates I’d have installed dry lining boxes and gotten the plasterer to plaster over the box to make a flush finish on the box. Just a tip I case you come across this in the future. Thanks for the comment mate.
What is the green stuff called ?
If I PVA the wall like you have is there a timescale before I can dot and dab like could I pva today and dot and dab a day or 2 later
Hi Sean, you should be able to apply adhesive right after PVA. You can always give it 5 minutes to absorb into the wall if you’re unsure.
Thanks for the question!
Hi I've never dot and dabbed before, I've got concrete blocks on the first floor of my extension and breeze blocks on the second floor would you recommend primering first?
Hi Mark.
I’d definitely suggest priming the concrete as it’s got extremely high suction rates, you can check this by putting water on it first and seeing how fast it absorbs.
The breeze blocks usually don’t require priming because they’re not as dense.
Hope this helps!
@@jinger2224 thank you so much that's fantastic advice 👌stay safe.
Please help, I'm tearing my hair out. I've had my new fully insulated double skin conservatory/sun room recently dot and dabbed about 6 weeks ago and although the plaster is dried out nicely, the dabs are still showing through like big circular wet patches. How much longer will I have to wait to paint? It seems like it's never going to dry.
I’d be happy to help. Although without seeing anything visual I can only guess!
When the plaster dries, it can sometimes leave behind the ‘shadows’ of any adhesive if the adhesive hasn’t fully dried out before it is skimmed- which is perfectly fine to paint over! Cold and moisture will make the adhesive dots more prominent.
If the wall where the adhesive is applied is ACTUALLY wet or the plaster still hasn’t dried out in those areas, I’d give it reason to either rising damp or moisture of some kind making it through the wall. Possibly even condensation forming on the back of the plasterboard if the room has been left cold (much like how you get condensation on the inside of a window)
They’re just some possible causes.
Thanks for the question, I hope you get it sorted!
As a former damp specialist you shouldn't dot and dab down downstairs in an old house that doesn't have a physical damp proof course. If this property has any damp proof course at all it will be a chemically injected damp proof course and using a gysum based plastering system will not work in conjunction with it.. its always advised to float with a sand and cement render with added waterproofer and salt inhibitor..
I'm very much a novice. I'm in a small village in Indo and difficult to find pva primer. Is it the same as PVA white glue? Is it polyvinyl acetate or polyvinyl alcohol? The polyvinyl alcohol seems to be a white powderish substance, also there is PVA blue which says 'PVA release agent' which is a blue clear liquid.
Hi Alasdair,
PVA is the white glue! Good question. 👍
Which cement is best for exposed wall?
You’ll have to elaborate. I’m not using cement in this video. Are you referring to external rendering?
Nice video
How do i make sure i have a 90° angle ?
Im thinking maybe use the laser before and draw lines om the floor before i start ?
what do you think?
Thanks in advance :)
Subscribed
Hey lulian, thanks for subscribing!
Use a large builders square to set your corners up to the correct angle. Sometime this isn’t possible in older houses though since the brickwork can be out of square. So it’s always good to check!
Use the 3:4:5 method to check if your corners are 90 degrees. You can mark the triangle on the floor and level up from that.
GREAT VIDEO MATE!!!!! WOULD U USE THE SAME DOT N DAB METHOD TO STICK INSULATED PLASTERBOARD TO A SOLID BRICK EXTERNAL WALL - OR CAN U SUGGEST A BETTER WAY???
Hi MR V, Thanks for the nice comment! You can Dot & Dab insulated plasterboard with normal plasterboard adhesive, it’s one method of doing it and it’s perfectly fine. That being said, sometimes the plaster boards can be stored improperly at suppliers or while you’re waiting to use them which cause the boards to warp or bend if left long enough - which is pretty much impossible to undo with Dot & DAB on insulated boards because of how rigid they are. If that happens, I’d recommend using 25mm lath to stud the wall out - which gives you the benefit of perhaps using thinner insulated board, and filling the cavities between the lath with insulation - and most importantly, will give you a straight wall! I hope this helps. 👍
@@jinger2224 YES - I ALSO THOUGHT THAT I COULD USE 25MM ROOF BATTENS - WITH 25MM THICK INSULATION SLAB INBETWEEN - THEN FINISH WITH REGULAR 12.5MM PLASTERBOARD!!!
WOULD ALSO BE CHEAPER I RECKON!!! WHAT DO U THINK???
It is a cheaper way of doing it. However, by not having any insulation over the Lath, you get cold bridging into the room.
A 25mm insulated plasterboard onto top of Laths, with insulation between the laths aswell will probably yield a decent half way result.
I hope this helps!
@@jinger2224 YEAH GUESS THAT PROBLY MAKES MORE SENSE!!!!!! 👍🏻
@@jinger2224 I WATCHED ALL UR VIDZ LAST NITE. REALLY IMPRESSED WITH UR HARD WORK AND LOOKIN FORWARD TO WATCHIN UPCOMING VIDZ!!!!!!
Can you (dot and dab) plasterboard over old SOUND plaster, or is it too smooth?
As long as the plaster is solid and none of it is parted from the undercoat (you can tap the plaster with your knuckles to find out - it will sound hollow) then there’s no reason why not. I’d always give it a quick run down with a bit of sandpaper just to rough up any smooth areas on the plaster prior to drylining. I hope this helps!
@@jinger2224 A small area is blown, but most of it is sound. If I knock off the blown area and PVA it and leave the sound part and sandpaper it, would that be okay?
That sounds like the best solution. Since you’re drylining it doesn’t matter about the appearance of the background - as long as it’s all solid.
@@jinger2224 Okay. Great and many thanks for your advice. Great video by the way.
How is it possible that you are at my house which I’m just about to dot and dab?
Any proper plasterer knows you work off your door casings, it wanted a planter on before you started
🤣🤣🤣🤣
man....so you have nice brick wall ready to put mortar(plaster) on it and you devalue it by smacking a dry wall tab on it....that´s terrible habbit these days...
Detailed dot amd dab without dots 😂
Good video until it got to 14 mins an skipped loads
carron needs to get a life
Reckon you could help me with some Info ?