Not sure how I ended up here but nice to see younger gen learning the trade. I'm 54 and been in the trade to long lol. When I first started out as a labourer one job I hated was knocking up Browning/Hardwall as we didn't have a power whisk. It was done by hand in a bath mixed with a shovel and a rake. Then loaded onto a spot board. Getting shouted at all day by spreads to hurry up as they were on price work. It used to kill me. I would go home and tell my mum I hate this job and would never want to be a plasterer. The whisk came along and saved us all 😁
Massive respect mate! It sounded so hard back then and I think todays plasterers take it for granted! It was a lot harder so fair play. And thanks for watching…I really appreciate it 👍
I'm a 58 yr old yank and I used to mix mud/mortar in a tub with a masons hoe. First we'd sift sand and then put 14 shovels to two bags of Portland cement. Brick masons screaming all day! Lol I hear you.
Don’t I know it I’m 62 and had over 45 years of it but I’m not getting much work lately probably most the people I worked for are retired or worse and trying to get some to understand that they don’t need plasterboard to stick over nice new Block work even bad uneven walls easier to plaster and with sand and cement any painted walls a splatter dash before plastering will ensure it takes to that
I learnt the trade from my brother and was in it with him for years,but it was during the time when it was all done by hand,and yes it was very hard work.He was a very good spread and use to say that you would find many as good ashim but not many better.We were subbies.
Man, I couldn’t believe you were able to get that flat and plumb after the first coat. I’d have went through and filled all the low spots the day before if possible, but you made that look easy. Nice work, mate. Cheers.
This has answered one of the questions I’ve been asking myself. I’ve been watching your videos on TH-cam and just signed up to your online course. I’ve just bought a house in Scotland that need quite a bit of renovation and I’m going to attempt to do it all myself. Every room needs some plastering work, some more than others. The best bit is, I’ve never done any plastering before but I want to learn. Most rooms have been plaster-boarded (by the previous owner), haven’t been skimmed but lining paper put on, scrim tape over the joints and that’s it, it looks terrible. One big wall in the living room is original old stone with old plaster crumbling and falling off it. So this video has answered my question of what product to use before using top coat plaster. Thanks for making this video, I appreciate it. I’m new to your online course and I’m about half way through the videos. I’m going to study them time and time again before I even think about attempting to plaster. I sent you an email a few days ago with more detail than this and would love some further advice from my new found plastering guru. Thanks again. 👍
Have to consider the rising damp in old buildings, bridging the damp course (if there even is one) can be an expensive mistake....there's more to renovation that just a bit of plastering.
Im not a professional and i learnt 37 years ago using washed sharp, my mentor taught me by letting me only do reveals, it taught me how to keep the mix on a hawk and trowel.... this year having had a big extension built and having a team of plasterers come in i realised i needed to do the plastering, watching your vids has given me a great refresher and although nervous about it im going to attempt K render.
You are the best Plasterer on TH-cam. I plastered my bathroom walls after watching a lot of your videos. Ceiling was really hard on my neck. Stiff for a week! Great teaching vids.
Just found your videos and it's nice to see someone whom knows how to plaster old school. I live in a old ex MOD property from the 1930's it has lime plaster and needs some repair. I have asked around a few plasterers now and they have all said that they only know how to dot and dab plaster board with finishing coat plaster.
PROFESSIONAL CRAFTSMAN??? Don’t make me laugh plasters are one step up from painters, I’ve been a joiner for over thirty years and the best plasterer I ever came across was a bricklayer by trade, the one and only time I didn’t have to scribe my boxing in to his wall because it was bang on level and plumb, and he mixed his sand and cement and finish by hand! Plus no speed skims or plastic trowels back then! Just a well worn steel ragni trowel and a level!
Stumbled upon this as i was getting lots of mixed msgs from tradesmen. Not only i enjoyed your video but feel maybe just maybe giving it a go myself for small wall. Noted your professionalism and dedication which i dont see much now a days. This over plasterboard anyday.
Nice work pal ! I watched a couple of your videos in preparation for plastering my staircase today for first time... I did alright, will need to get sander out when dry lol.
This is so helpful! I wanted to fix a wall in a house I own in a village in Europe and this enlightened me. I am going to apply this knowledge soon and plaster a brick wall soon there.
I served my time as a wet spread in 1981.the days on the bath scarred me for life 😩 Friday used to be direct load day from British gypsum 44ton of carlite bonding/browning etc. we had to unload by hand and still keep in front of the spreads who unlike today had no mercy on apprentices. Hard times but taught me well and I went onto make a lot of money on the trowel over the years
That’s madness mate. Nothing but respect for that - sounds like real graft! Fair play for your time served and thanks For watching. I really appreciate it 👍
I'm looking to plaster my garage soon (never plastered before) so would have been good to understand the consistency of the mixes for the render & top coats.. Also how long you waited between coats, the different tools... Perhaps you've covered it elsewhere?
Superb. Very professional. Invaluable advice. Just a few questions if you would be so kind. 1)So long as you only build 8mm at a time can you apply deeper than the 25mm it states on the bag? 2) if you have to wait between layers say next day. Is it best to apply a 1 to 5 PVA mix prior to applying next or finishing layer and apply the plaster when PVA is still wet? 3) Many thanks 👍Tony
this is the best TH-cam video out there. It will one day be part of TH-cam Hall of fame. Plastering old properties is the best. and very beautiful. Could you do one project with lime plaster? If possible.
I honestly didn't think that wall could be fixed. The shinny high gloss paint and all the highs and lows on the wall. You did some amazing work on that wall. ❤
Came out beautiful man! I had crappy ceramic tiles in the kitchen of my house in Croatia and it was all old school solid plaster aswell. I was freaking out because after i took the tiles off it was all exposed stone, and i was thinking how the hell was i going to make a wall that smooth but after watching this i think i can do just fine. Thank you for posting, this is the only video ive seen on plastering solid, everyone usually does board underneath.
Any chance you could do a video for beginners on plastering artex ceilings? I have a few in my house (tested negative for asbestos) Would love to have them smooth skim
There was very little or no dry lining going on 36 yrs ago when I started out as a young plasterer! Though would always agree that a solid wall is better than dry lined. When you tap dry lined it always sounds hollow! Though my point here is to say that if a wall is rough then maybe the easiest way is to just dot and dab board over it? This method is fast, and clean. You can of course then skim it but I notice that many new domestic builds, all they do is tape and feather joints out with NO SKIM? Though If this is done properly you just won't see the join! Proactivity and ease of system on site will always win over what we might prefer!
You are right mate. Ease will always win on site. But I must admit that I much prefer this method - it’s so much stronger and it’s a lot more enjoyable than just skimming. But that’s me...I rarely do float and set now to be honest so I love it when it comes!
I believe there’s a difference between the craftsman’s eye and the client’s eye. Even the best taped joints can be seen from certain angles where a skim covers all if it’s good. It’s like the difference between frozen chips and real tatties: nothing wrong with frozen, but you can’t beat the real thing. Just my POV.
Top job as always blaine! My only issue is!!!! If the internal skin is brick then the odds are their is no mechanical dpc installed so gypsum plaster is a no go! It will promote damp.
@@allglorytothehypnofox when i converted my singles skin garage the spec from building control was to create a 2" cavity using 3x2 stud work, infill with 3" kingspan, put a breathable membrane on the back of the stud and to put a visqueen vapour barrier on the front! Then board and skim.
@@brimplas1 Thanks for your input. Really appreciate it. Part of the wall is underneath the ground level of neighbouring property, so looks like I’ll get some tanking done!
ohoo!! Ok, I just learned why my plaster dried so dang fast and then I couldn't work it, it was making me so angry. My walls were very dry. I needed to wet them down some before applying the plaster so it would have time to spread.
Great video. Makes me feel I ca give it a go! But would there have been any additional value in doing this with lime plaster to allow the bricks to breathe? Thanks
Thank you. This is extremely helpful. I was wondering if you consult. I am in the US and virtually no one is doing traditional plaster work. I cannot find anyone to consult regarding how to deal with 2 problems in a 1910 home: 1) how to plaster over brick when the brick was originally coated with bitumen and that is now a bit brittle; 2) a wall that starts as brick and continues as a stud/lath and plaster wall that has been wallboarded. The plaster on the brick had failed after 100+ years and many in more recent times with windows not caulked an painted. I'm on a slow trip to putting the old girl back together. On the bitumin I've been advised to use "Plasterweld". I can get no advise on the brick/stud wall where I'm worried about cracking between the two parts of the wall. The stud wall wallboarded when that plaster failed and someone wire lath over the wallboard onto the plaster on brisk and then used dry wall mud over that. I'm thinking about dot and dab wallboard onto the brick and then treating the joint as any wallboard joint. I'd use wallboard used for bathrooms here. We have a product called Structolite (a gypsum scratch coat plater). We do not have gypsum drywall adhesive ... I'm thinking Structolite + PVA or cementweld. The only person I can find here to consult is an excellent conservation carpenter, but he's not a plasterer. He insisted I need to screw wiremesh to the brick walll. He also insists that I should mix lime putty with the Structoliite for my finish coat. I would be interested in learning if you do paid consulting.
Could you do a video on your opinion of using hardwall on solid brick external walls? Some people say hardwall shouldnt be used there. But I didn't hear you mention this on any of your videos on hardwall?
Great and educational videos. Thanks. Not watched all of them yet but would like to see how you plaster a very high wall and level it. Please attach a link if you have already done it. Also have you got videos on fitting edge beadings and then plastering/skimming them? Thanks for your very helpful videos, please continue to make them. 👍🏆
How do I do this for a concrete wall? I live in an old building (1950's I believe) and when trying to simply remove flaking paint I discovered that the previous owners decided to intermingle paint and plaster. Next thing I know I'm looking at concrete foundation. Currently I've filled in the foundation as much as I can (but below the plaster line) to replace the concrete that fell out, but where do I go from there 😅. I gotta do this myself, I can't hire a professional unfortunately.
Hi Blain ! When I was working with an old boy plasterer many years ago he would build out with render then he would get me to mix hardwall and multi 50/50 he would build out to where it needed to be then he would trowel it up to a perfect finish ! He was amazing but moody ! Dennis Mathew's ! He must 80 odd by now ! 🤔
I’ve never seen this before - sounds interesting!! I’ll have to give it a look, thanks for sharing. At least you don’t have to work with him any more though 😂
@@PlasteringForBeginners he was amazing on a trowel tho ! He always eat his lunch on his own . Every wall was like glass ! But he hated the painters ! 😂😂
If you’re doing a large wall and one bag isn’t enough do you just feather off the edge and do second coat over what you’ve done then do the section left? Or just whip up some more plaster to finish wall then get ready for second coat?
Hi Blain your tutorial videos brilliant helped me to plaster like a pro and invest in some great refina tools for my house refurbishment. Question: decided to try drywalling ?? 🙄on a new gyproc wall all that rubbing down and re coating 🤔 i gave up !! can I just plaster on top of the new drywall compound now its dry or will I have to upva to seal it first cheers.
I've found those drywall jointing compounds can suck a lot of moisture out of your multi-finish, and they have quite a dusty finish. I'd recommend using some PVA on the whole wall first. Like Blain explains with half exposed, half painted brick, you want to try and get the suction consistent across the whole wall, so it might not hurt to do 2 coats of PVA across the whole lot.
Because hard wall is for high sunction surfaces, is it still suitable after priming the brick with SBR which kills sunction? Or would bonding coat be more suitable?
@@PlasteringForBeginners Another world class output buddy. Damn, that was impressive. From rough bricks all over the place to like a sheet of glass at the end! Lovely!
Thanks so much - great videos! I have a room that I'm going to attempt to do myself. The walls are made from slate and are very uneven. I don't want to use pasteboard because you get that hollow feel not in keeping. Would Hardwall be good for this do you know - or bonding plaster? I seem to remember using Hardwall before and found that it sagged (but maybe I made the mixture too wet!). Many thanks.
Genuine question: if that's a solid wall, surely it needs a breathable plaster (lime/breathaplasta) on it? The gypsum will seal in the condensation and cause damp issues further down the line.
So did you really finish plaster the whole wall (twice!) on top of that unevenly drying hardwall?? What I want to know is if you came back the next day when it was all dry, would you use SBR or PVA again to stop the now hardish and very sucky hardwall from sucking all the water out of your top coat multifinish before you had the chance to trowel it flat.........enlighten me please!
No doubt you do a great job my friend as this wall was all over the place. I actually don't know how you got it so straight both horizontally and vertically. One question is why don’t you put on screed boards to plumb up the walls along the length using drylines or a laser? I suppose that is how I would have to do it as I have no experience. Please explain your work strategy to a beginner who has no experience in walls like this? As always I enjoy these very much and hope to someday do some of my walls which are papered plasterboard.
@@PlasteringForBeginners Using drywall as the grounds is quite clever and Iike that approach. would you happen to know what product made here in USA closely matches your material? I am referring mainly to your British Thistle Mult- purpose. We have a few I have seen like Structolite for base and Diamond for finish. Would this work as well? Appreciate your time and this info will spread out your videos to our beginners here as well. It all started where you are.
Shouldn’t the SBR be made up as a slurry with cement and then left tacky to give it a real chance of binding with the plaster, as the paint can still flake off the brickwork in the future ? I would of made sure the paint was properly keyed up and then slurried to give it the best possible connection.
we used to needle gun all the paint off. tanking old coal cellars under the pavements in london, 3 days with a needle gun ,no fun at all, even if you put slurry on thats no different with the fact that paint could detach under the slurry, he could have just pva'd the paint and dampened the bare brick but he wanted even suction over the whole wall ,ideally paint should be removed but it should hold up ok. when you think about it when you skim internal walls that are painted you just pva and skim so no different really. its all about whats practical in different situations ,mess,time etc
There was a decent key from the brick and the paint was completely solid. I did a test first on the smaller wall with the same conditions and it worked a treat. If the paint was loose then I’d have to scrape it all back like Joe joe said. I was debating using Bluegrit but I wanted the suction to be frequent throughout so I thought SBR was the best option. It worked but like a said, I tested it on a smaller wall so I was covering my back. I used a slurry on a previous video when using Sand Cement but I found Hardwall grips to anything...even plasterboard 👍
The jobs only as good as the paint but it's obvious when paint still has a secure bond to brickwork nothing is going to go wrong with this finished wall... Grinding a key is making work and dust especially when not needed
No Feb bond them mix bonding plaster straighten float then skim coat if you want your bonding plaster to go off quick use dirty water or a handful of cement
Love the videos Blaine, new subscriber! This reminds me why whenever I say to one of the plasterers I use, 'I wish I could do that', he always replies 'so do I' LOL
Not sure how I ended up here but nice to see younger gen learning the trade. I'm 54 and been in the trade to long lol. When I first started out as a labourer one job I hated was knocking up Browning/Hardwall as we didn't have a power whisk. It was done by hand in a bath mixed with a shovel and a rake. Then loaded onto a spot board. Getting shouted at all day by spreads to hurry up as they were on price work. It used to kill me. I would go home and tell my mum I hate this job and would never want to be a plasterer. The whisk came along and saved us all 😁
Massive respect mate! It sounded so hard back then and I think todays plasterers take it for granted! It was a lot harder so fair play. And thanks for watching…I really appreciate it 👍
Yeah the guy I used to labour for used to spit on the spot and say " I don't want to see that f@#ker all day! " 🤣🤣
I'm a 58 yr old yank and I used to mix mud/mortar in a tub with a masons hoe. First we'd sift sand and then put 14 shovels to two bags of Portland cement. Brick masons screaming all day! Lol I hear you.
Don’t I know it I’m 62 and had over 45 years of it but I’m not getting much work lately probably most the people I worked for are retired or worse and trying to get some to understand that they don’t need plasterboard to stick over nice new Block work even bad uneven walls easier to plaster and with sand and cement any painted walls a splatter dash before plastering will ensure it takes to that
Same generation more muck or more Donald working for 2spreads but they paid me on top of my day rate they was on price on the tools by 17
Talk about a pro who likes his trade and does it with perfection. Bravo. The impossible wall became possible.
I learnt the trade from my brother and was in it with him for years,but it was during the time when it was all done by hand,and yes it was very hard work.He was a very good spread and use to say that you would find many as good ashim but not many better.We were subbies.
Man, I couldn’t believe you were able to get that flat and plumb after the first coat. I’d have went through and filled all the low spots the day before if possible, but you made that look easy. Nice work, mate. Cheers.
You are my hero. It's great to watch a real plasterer, there are so many bodgers pretending to be plasterers.
Cheers mate! I really appreciate that!
I'm a bricklayer by trade but I love watching your videos, A great tradesman and teacher
Great spread good to see old school plastering I've been in the trade 35 years great video well done you 😊
This has answered one of the questions I’ve been asking myself. I’ve been watching your videos on TH-cam and just signed up to your online course. I’ve just bought a house in Scotland that need quite a bit of renovation and I’m going to attempt to do it all myself. Every room needs some plastering work, some more than others. The best bit is, I’ve never done any plastering before but I want to learn. Most rooms have been plaster-boarded (by the previous owner), haven’t been skimmed but lining paper put on, scrim tape over the joints and that’s it, it looks terrible. One big wall in the living room is original old stone with old plaster crumbling and falling off it. So this video has answered my question of what product to use before using top coat plaster. Thanks for making this video, I appreciate it. I’m new to your online course and I’m about half way through the videos. I’m going to study them time and time again before I even think about attempting to plaster. I sent you an email a few days ago with more detail than this and would love some further advice from my new found plastering guru. Thanks again. 👍
Just bear in mind that gypsum may not be most suitable to older buildings in scotland
Have to consider the rising damp in old buildings, bridging the damp course (if there even is one) can be an expensive mistake....there's more to renovation that just a bit of plastering.
Im not a professional and i learnt 37 years ago using washed sharp, my mentor taught me by letting me only do reveals, it taught me how to keep the mix on a hawk and trowel.... this year having had a big extension built and having a team of plasterers come in i realised i needed to do the plastering, watching your vids has given me a great refresher and although nervous about it im going to attempt K render.
Pp
Lovely job and a great video to show just how much work it takes to straighten and prep a wall for the skim finish, people just dont realise.
I just fell over , a plasterer with a level,unheard off
Great job mate
Haha it happens 😂😂
You are the best Plasterer on TH-cam. I plastered my bathroom walls after watching a lot of your videos. Ceiling was really hard on my neck. Stiff for a week! Great teaching vids.
he really isn't
If he was, he would have scraped the damn pain off first
@@demukazz True 😂😂😂
@@demukazz scraped the paint off? Why? That would take forever.
@@tonymcfadyen8302 because it is the technical requirement of such procedure and to make sure plaster adheres to more rigid surface.
Thank you so much been a great help not quite up to your standards but I’m happy with it I’m a 63 year old welder thanks again
Just found your videos and it's nice to see someone whom knows how to plaster old school. I live in a old ex MOD property from the 1930's it has lime plaster and needs some repair. I have asked around a few plasterers now and they have all said that they only know how to dot and dab plaster board with finishing coat plaster.
Excellent presentation. A true professional and sets the high standard to which an apprentice should aspire.
Thanks mate. I really appreciate that 👍
Luckily for me Blain,I'm plastering in the day and watching your videos by night, best of both worlds cheers buddy keep em coming 👍
Thank you for watching mate. I really appreciate it - cheers!
Just live at work 24/7 that must be a tough life
@@shootermcgavin8793 if you enjoy what you do, you never work 👌
So satisfying to watch a professional craftsman at his trade. Perfection as always mate
PROFESSIONAL CRAFTSMAN??? Don’t make me laugh plasters are one step up from painters, I’ve been a joiner for over thirty years and the best plasterer I ever came across was a bricklayer by trade, the one and only time I didn’t have to scribe my boxing in to his wall because it was bang on level and plumb, and he mixed his sand and cement and finish by hand! Plus no speed skims or plastic trowels back then! Just a well worn steel ragni trowel and a level!
Was virtually spot on with the first coat as he showed with the level,should have skimmed that.
Stumbled upon this as i was getting lots of mixed msgs from tradesmen. Not only i enjoyed your video but feel maybe just maybe giving it a go myself for small wall. Noted your professionalism and dedication which i dont see much now a days. This over plasterboard anyday.
You are my go-to instructor. Thanks so much for this video. I have a few wonky old walls and this is exactly what I needed to know. 👍👍
Nice work pal ! I watched a couple of your videos in preparation for plastering my staircase today for first time... I did alright, will need to get sander out when dry lol.
You have the gift of teaching
Takes me back..it's all in the final noise.
I even remember jute scrim and clouds, we'll done sir a noble art indeed
Ha thank you my friend!! All the best
Brilliant mate, really helping me and confidence in plastering my own place
This is so helpful! I wanted to fix a wall in a house I own in a village in Europe and this enlightened me. I am going to apply this knowledge soon and plaster a brick wall soon there.
How did it go? I'm scared to pull down my plasterboard and try this but I really want to
Great video can't fault your technique. Especially when you said usually you should float from right to left and using the D-float 👌🏿 that is correct.
Thanks matey!
Great channel , I'm a painter by trade and my brother is a plasteter, but I also enjoy plastering.. learnt a lot from you mate 👍
I served my time as a wet spread in 1981.the days on the bath scarred me for life 😩 Friday used to be direct load day from British gypsum 44ton of carlite bonding/browning etc. we had to unload by hand and still keep in front of the spreads who unlike today had no mercy on apprentices. Hard times but taught me well and I went onto make a lot of money on the trowel over the years
That’s madness mate. Nothing but respect for that - sounds like real graft! Fair play for your time served and thanks For watching. I really appreciate it 👍
No fun mixing browning in a bath with the shovel is it
I'm looking to plaster my garage soon (never plastered before) so would have been good to understand the consistency of the mixes for the render & top coats.. Also how long you waited between coats, the different tools... Perhaps you've covered it elsewhere?
Superb. Very professional. Invaluable advice. Just a few questions if you would be so kind. 1)So long as you only build 8mm at a time can you apply deeper than the 25mm it states on the bag? 2) if you have to wait between layers say next day. Is it best to apply a 1 to 5 PVA mix prior to applying next or finishing layer and apply the plaster when PVA is still wet? 3) Many thanks 👍Tony
this is the best TH-cam video out there. It will one day be part of TH-cam Hall of fame. Plastering old properties is the best. and very beautiful. Could you do one project with lime plaster? If possible.
Thanks mate! There's a recent Lime Plaster video on the channel pal - check it out ;)
Never seen a plasterer use a level. Nice one.
I honestly didn't think that wall could be fixed. The shinny high gloss paint and all the highs and lows on the wall. You did some amazing work on that wall. ❤
prior to apply gypsum plaster, you need at least 1 coat of PVA bond agent, (Thistle GypPrime), to prevent adhesion failures.
Absolutely beautiful work.
Superb workmanship.
Wow what a great job
Nice to see a real plasterer coming from a 20yr veteren👍👍
Came out beautiful man! I had crappy ceramic tiles in the kitchen of my house in Croatia and it was all old school solid plaster aswell. I was freaking out because after i took the tiles off it was all exposed stone, and i was thinking how the hell was i going to make a wall that smooth but after watching this i think i can do just fine. Thank you for posting, this is the only video ive seen on plastering solid, everyone usually does board underneath.
Wow you really put that on thick! That's amazing!
Absolute artist my man!
I learnt a lot thanks very much. I have a load of old walls to Plaster
Thank for watching my friend 👍
Possibly demonstrating setting out screeds using box method for beginners
I love float and set take it over board any day perfect results everytime for me love it hard graft but worth it 💪🏼
Any chance you could do a video for beginners on plastering artex ceilings?
I have a few in my house (tested negative for asbestos)
Would love to have them smooth skim
I’m so impressed! Great video! 🙏🏻😊
nice work, complements from a Canadian stucco plaster.
Another great job buddy
You my friend are a plasterer 👍
nice job, the wall looks great.
Great to see someone do a little bit of solid work.Top job m8 thx for sharing
Thanks for watching matey!
Great video maye it has helped me a lot. Keep up the good work
Amazing as always
Thank you very much!!
There was very little or no dry lining going on 36 yrs ago when I started out as a young plasterer! Though would always agree that a solid wall is better than dry lined. When you tap dry lined it always sounds hollow! Though my point here is to say that if a wall is rough then maybe the easiest way is to just dot and dab board over it? This method is fast, and clean. You can of course then skim it but I notice that many new domestic builds, all they do is tape and feather joints out with NO SKIM? Though If this is done properly you just won't see the join! Proactivity and ease of system on site will always win over what we might prefer!
You are right mate. Ease will always win on site. But I must admit that I much prefer this method - it’s so much stronger and it’s a lot more enjoyable than just skimming. But that’s me...I rarely do float and set now to be honest so I love it when it comes!
I believe there’s a difference between the craftsman’s eye and the client’s eye. Even the best taped joints can be seen from certain angles where a skim covers all if it’s good. It’s like the difference between frozen chips and real tatties: nothing wrong with frozen, but you can’t beat the real thing. Just my POV.
@@gerarddunmoore7609 Indeed!
Best plastering video I've seen
Top job as always blaine! My only issue is!!!! If the internal skin is brick then the odds are their is no mechanical dpc installed so gypsum plaster is a no go! It will promote damp.
Out of curiosity, I have an old brick outbuilding that I want to convert into a room. What would you recommend instead of gypsum in these situations?
@@allglorytothehypnofox when i converted my singles skin garage the spec from building control was to create a 2" cavity using 3x2 stud work, infill with 3" kingspan, put a breathable membrane on the back of the stud and to put a visqueen vapour barrier on the front! Then board and skim.
Couldn’t agree more. Personally I would of suggested to the customer to tank that whole wall prior to plasterwork.
@@brad7180 yep. Doesn't matter what the customer wants! You as the trades man has to tell them what they can have..
@@brimplas1 Thanks for your input. Really appreciate it. Part of the wall is underneath the ground level of neighbouring property, so looks like I’ll get some tanking done!
Nice project, very interesting.
Cheers!!
ohoo!! Ok, I just learned why my plaster dried so dang fast and then I couldn't work it, it was making me so angry. My walls were very dry. I needed to wet them down some before applying the plaster so it would have time to spread.
Great video. Makes me feel I ca give it a go! But would there have been any additional value in doing this with lime plaster to allow the bricks to breathe? Thanks
Thank you. This is extremely helpful. I was wondering if you consult. I am in the US and virtually no one is doing traditional plaster work. I cannot find anyone to consult regarding how to deal with 2 problems in a 1910 home: 1) how to plaster over brick when the brick was originally coated with bitumen and that is now a bit brittle; 2) a wall that starts as brick and continues as a stud/lath and plaster wall that has been wallboarded. The plaster on the brick had failed after 100+ years and many in more recent times with windows not caulked an painted. I'm on a slow trip to putting the old girl back together.
On the bitumin I've been advised to use "Plasterweld". I can get no advise on the brick/stud wall where I'm worried about cracking between the two parts of the wall. The stud wall wallboarded when that plaster failed and someone wire lath over the wallboard onto the plaster on brisk and then used dry wall mud over that. I'm thinking about dot and dab wallboard onto the brick and then treating the joint as any wallboard joint. I'd use wallboard used for bathrooms here. We have a product called Structolite (a gypsum scratch coat plater). We do not have gypsum drywall adhesive ... I'm thinking Structolite + PVA or cementweld.
The only person I can find here to consult is an excellent conservation carpenter, but he's not a plasterer. He insisted I need to screw wiremesh to the brick walll. He also insists that I should mix lime putty with the Structoliite for my finish coat.
I would be interested in learning if you do paid consulting.
I remember a plasterer useing grey carlite bonding on a full ceiling and skimmed it
Hardball for high suction. Sbr and waterproofer you've made it like glass that will shell off.
Naive amateur here. Love your videos. Just wondering in this scenario if you could use thistle bonding coat instead of hardwall? Why or why not?
Excelente trabajo 👌🏻, excelente video saludos desde chile 👍 👊
👌👌
Great job Blaine, fantastic video too, very informative.👍👍👍
Thank you mate!
Could you do a video on your opinion of using hardwall on solid brick external walls? Some people say hardwall shouldnt be used there. But I didn't hear you mention this on any of your videos on hardwall?
I agree, Hardwall is excellent stuff. Smells a little funky, But, otherwise, brilliant stuff.
Agreed!!
fantastic.
Proper plastering 👍
Cheers pal!!
That wall looks really nice
Great and educational videos. Thanks. Not watched all of them yet but would like to see how you plaster a very high wall and level it. Please attach a link if you have already done it. Also have you got videos on fitting edge beadings and then plastering/skimming them? Thanks for your very helpful videos, please continue to make them. 👍🏆
How do I do this for a concrete wall? I live in an old building (1950's I believe) and when trying to simply remove flaking paint I discovered that the previous owners decided to intermingle paint and plaster. Next thing I know I'm looking at concrete foundation. Currently I've filled in the foundation as much as I can (but below the plaster line) to replace the concrete that fell out, but where do I go from there 😅. I gotta do this myself, I can't hire a professional unfortunately.
Excellent tutorial 👌
Excellent video ❤
Subscribed 👍
Brilliant!! Cheers mate 👍
Excellent work thanks for sharing!
Thanks mate!!
Hi Blain ! When I was working with an old boy plasterer many years ago he would build out with render then he would get me to mix hardwall and multi 50/50 he would build out to where it needed to be then he would trowel it up to a perfect finish ! He was amazing but moody ! Dennis Mathew's ! He must 80 odd by now ! 🤔
I’ve never seen this before - sounds interesting!! I’ll have to give it a look, thanks for sharing. At least you don’t have to work with him any more though 😂
@@PlasteringForBeginners he was amazing on a trowel tho ! He always eat his lunch on his own . Every wall was like glass ! But he hated the painters ! 😂😂
Did he just use the 50/50 as a final coat
@@michaelmoroney4594 he did ! And it worked .
@@anthonyconti9626 what was the logic behind this or benefit of it please?
Amazing talent! Well done!
I always spray bit of hardwall on my water 😂
Graight vid though pal, nice to see other ways out ther😊
lovley job spot on👍🏻
see you use sbr, can that be used before re- skimming over old plaster?? or is pva better.
Cheers pal!! SBR is ok but I prefer PVA personally 👍
Great vid and superb work as always bud looking forward to the next one 👍
Thank you pal - I really appreciate that 👍
If you’re doing a large wall and one bag isn’t enough do you just feather off the edge and do second coat over what you’ve done then do the section left? Or just whip up some more plaster to finish wall then get ready for second coat?
Hi Blain your tutorial videos brilliant helped me to plaster like a pro and invest in some great refina tools for my house refurbishment. Question: decided to try drywalling ?? 🙄on a new gyproc wall all that rubbing down and re coating 🤔 i gave up !! can I just plaster on top of the new drywall compound now its dry or will I have to upva to seal it first cheers.
I've found those drywall jointing compounds can suck a lot of moisture out of your multi-finish, and they have quite a dusty finish. I'd recommend using some PVA on the whole wall first. Like Blain explains with half exposed, half painted brick, you want to try and get the suction consistent across the whole wall, so it might not hurt to do 2 coats of PVA across the whole lot.
Thanks John for your reply and advice 👍 very much appreciated can get on with two coats of pva before plastering thanks
Because hard wall is for high sunction surfaces, is it still suitable after priming the brick with SBR which kills sunction? Or would bonding coat be more suitable?
Damn Blaine, loving the upload rate!
And always just when I’m hours away from work! Perfect timing 😁
Haha thanks Marcus mate! I’m upping it whilst I can pal. Hope you enjoyed it my friend...all the best
@@PlasteringForBeginners Another world class output buddy. Damn, that was impressive. From rough bricks all over the place to like a sheet of glass at the end! Lovely!
Hi, Do you do work in Greater Manchester area?
Pete the whistle top top job love to know the cost 👍🏿
👍👍👍
Really good video on how to plaster for beginners awesome video 👍
Thank you pal!!
Great video. I want to plaster my cellar. Its a bit damp. What would you recommend. Old brickwork
What do you recommend when it comes to skimming painted walls?
He mentions in the video that he uses an SBR primer. Works very well. Insure it's dry and tacky before plastering.
A Little tip I use "thistle bond it" over paint instead of SBR gives it uniform suction and grip from the grit in the product. Bit more expensive tho
Yes thistle bond it first & thistle bonding for the scratch coat over the painted side,Hardwall is most likely to come away from the paint just sayin.
Will this type of plaster stay long on that glossy white paint ? I'm just wondering if it needed a wire brushing first?
Thanks so much - great videos! I have a room that I'm going to attempt to do myself. The walls are made from slate and are very uneven. I don't want to use pasteboard because you get that hollow feel not in keeping. Would Hardwall be good for this do you know - or bonding plaster? I seem to remember using Hardwall before and found that it sagged (but maybe I made the mixture too wet!). Many thanks.
Hi mate. See when you went over it with water in the last part of the vids, is that a finishing trowel?
Great vids by the way.
Always great advice and videos from you.
Genuine question: if that's a solid wall, surely it needs a breathable plaster (lime/breathaplasta) on it? The gypsum will seal in the condensation and cause damp issues further down the line.
Master craftsman 👏
Thank you!!
So did you really finish plaster the whole wall (twice!) on top of that unevenly drying hardwall?? What I want to know is if you came back the next day when it was all dry, would you use SBR or PVA again to stop the now hardish and very sucky hardwall from sucking all the water out of your top coat multifinish before you had the chance to trowel it flat.........enlighten me please!
No doubt you do a great job my friend as this wall was all over the place. I actually don't know how you got it so straight both horizontally and vertically.
One question is why don’t you put on screed boards to plumb up the walls along the length using drylines or a laser? I suppose that is how I would have to do it as I have no experience. Please explain your work strategy to a beginner who has no experience in walls like this?
As always I enjoy these very much and hope to someday do some of my walls which are papered plasterboard.
Thanks mate - check it the latest video. It shows exactly what you’re looking for 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners
Using drywall as the grounds is quite clever and Iike that approach.
would you happen to know what product made here in USA closely matches your material? I am referring mainly to your British Thistle Mult- purpose. We have a few I have seen like Structolite for base and Diamond for finish. Would this work as well?
Appreciate your time and this info will spread out your videos to our beginners here as well. It all started where you are.
Great job blian....do you recommend skimming over the electricial capping, I've had trouble in the past with cracking in the past in these areas 👍
* skrim taping over the capping I mean *
Hi, great video… would you please recommend a ready mix? (as I’m not confident mixing the gypsum myself)
Shouldn’t the SBR be made up as a slurry with cement and then left tacky to give it a real chance of binding with the plaster, as the paint can still flake off the brickwork in the future ? I would of made sure the paint was properly keyed up and then slurried to give it the best possible connection.
we used to needle gun all the paint off. tanking old coal cellars under the pavements in london, 3 days with a needle gun ,no fun at all, even if you put slurry on thats no different with the fact that paint could detach under the slurry, he could have just pva'd the paint and dampened the bare brick but he wanted even suction over the whole wall ,ideally paint should be removed but it should hold up ok. when you think about it when you skim internal walls that are painted you just pva and skim so no different really. its all about whats practical in different situations ,mess,time etc
There was a decent key from the brick and the paint was completely solid. I did a test first on the smaller wall with the same conditions and it worked a treat.
If the paint was loose then I’d have to scrape it all back like Joe joe said. I was debating using Bluegrit but I wanted the suction to be frequent throughout so I thought SBR was the best option.
It worked but like a said, I tested it on a smaller wall so I was covering my back. I used a slurry on a previous video when using Sand Cement but I found Hardwall grips to anything...even plasterboard 👍
I agree mate should of grind a key on the painted area
The jobs only as good as the paint but it's obvious when paint still has a secure bond to brickwork nothing is going to go wrong with this finished wall... Grinding a key is making work and dust especially when not needed
No Feb bond them mix bonding plaster straighten float then skim coat if you want your bonding plaster to go off quick use dirty water or a handful of cement
Love the videos Blaine, new subscriber! This reminds me why whenever I say to one of the plasterers I use, 'I wish I could do that', he always replies 'so do I' LOL