I appreciate an instructive video and this was helpful. One little thing I did on mine was to replace that bolt you cut on the lower A-arm from the back so the nut is now next to the bumper so it won't have to be removed the next time. Saves alot of future work and frustration.
You have just nailed the top of my list of best instructional videos EVER. Forgetting the wheel studs... it's as if I made the video LOL!!! Tomorrow, I will tackle the refresh of my newly acquired ranger 6x6... I have 4 new wheel bearings to install, and I will be sure to NOT forget the wheel studs... if I remove them...
FYI on a bearing that's seized in a hub like that instead of cutting it out once all the balls cage are out and the raceway surface is exposed dig out the welder and run a bead of weld around the race way. Welding "pulls" and the race will drop out of the hub with ease, and this does absolutely no damage to the bearing / hub mounting surface that cutting with a torch, plasma or cut off wheel.
The wheel bearings can be packed with grease,Polaris uses Chinese bearings. Also on the suspension bushings, don't bother with Polaris junk go to super Daves he makes bushings and sleeves that are way higher quality than Polaris. The more parts you can put in a Polaris made by someone else the better off you are. Also the bearings are two piece rollers when you torque the axle nut you are setting the preload.
Remove bearing in your press and re install in your press no heat needed vs trying to hammer them out with a punch. clean out hub with a rag clean out snap ring groove and spray area with a touch of wd-40 it helps bearing slide in straight without getting hung up while being pressed in. Also seized bolt inside the bushing put heat on bolt head then get a pry bar and hit the thread end of bolt with a 2lb hammer then pry the bolt out between head and frame because sometimes cutting won't work depending frame and a-arm location... Use copper coat it works better than regular anti seize against water and moisture which causes welded parts.
it was still helpful to see your video. I didn't chill the bearing but I used a little heat, went in no problem. tight fit though. I was able to remove bearing retainer and expose ball bearings. (the opposite side of the circlip) I packed them with marine grease. BTW, do you have an off road tv show in Canada. if not you should, I would definitely watch. a mix of your hardcore riding in different locations and some how to sessions and plus some sponsor plugs.
1. You need a tool cart 2. Not that I know for certain but I see you used antisieze for bushings and know it has metallic dust in it and is not good for moving parts wondering if brake caliper grease may be better as it also has high temp ratings. Just a thought.
First you complain about having to remove the bumper to get the lower a-arm front bolt out, then you put it in the same way! I reinstalled mine from the rear for next time.
I was going to comment the same thing! That is so funny...mention how much of a pain it is....then turn around and do the same thing to the next guy that will be working on it!
Great video huge help. I have a question will antiseize help with the bushings squeeking mine does terrible. Your videos are great info keep them going
Just did my rear lower a arm bushing at the hub and put zerks in. Should help with longevity . I used oem on rear and super atv bushings on front. Do you have a recommendation on bushings, how about wheel bearings? Great video .
hope this customer isn't paying by the hour. The lower front A arm bolt will come right out if you get a pry bar behind the head and give it a whack with the hammer. Not perfect but it will come out.... Why in the world would you not reverse the direction of the bolt going back together so you don't have this issue again?
In putting a 2" lift on the front struts, I found that the DS CV joint was a "bag of bolts" in the CV boot. This video has been incredibly helpful in that lift process and I was able to get the PS strut lifted - it looks great. When pulling the front left axle off of my 2007 Ranger 700 EFI 6X6, the axle actually separated from whatever is in the front transfer case "boot" (a little piece of the boot is still clamped on the axle); I'm now holding the largest part of the axle and the "can" is still attached to the front transfer case. I saw something that the compression ring around the spline can rust and the ring won't compress to let the axle slide out. Any ideas on how to get that remaining piece out of the front transfer case so I can put a new front axle assembly on there?
great video! just a quick question what is the part on which the control arms and the callipers are mounted called ? and what is the part after the rotor called ? are both of them called the hub ?
I just followed your video step by step procedures for both front wheel bearings.I have a problem!! When I tried to replace the wheels back on, the rim hits the bolt for the steering. Both sides!! The bearings are the right width.The bearings went in all the way and the snap ring is in place.The Castle nuts are going on the axle properly. They are not too far on axle to hub. I did one side at a time. WTF?? Now what?? ted
Thanks for the vid i have a 2010 ranger 400 front left wheel got some play in it seems to be from the bottom arm think its that or a wheel bearing ? axle seems to have a lil play to on same side any suggestions Thanks
This take down and bearing replacement was very helpful My diesel ranger chased a pickup truck off our farm that had just robbed us. And I crashed into him and compressed my front end by about a foot. Are frame repair kits available?
I have a rear axle that keeps pulling out about a half inch out of the rear chunk. It snaps in place, but comes loose after the suspension is stretched during use. I do not have a lift kit on it. I have also tried 2 different axles and get the same results. Any ideas what the issue could be?
hey i have a 2013 sportsman 400 and there a popping noise in the back right wheel and it mainly pops when im turning in reverese but only pops when im turning any idea on what that could be
never would I consider buying replacement parts from polaris. garage products or super daves make bushing replacements that will last the life of the machine. polaris parts are garbage
I appreciate an instructive video and this was helpful. One little thing I did on mine was to replace that bolt you cut on the lower A-arm from the back so the nut is now next to the bumper so it won't have to be removed the next time. Saves alot of future work and frustration.
You have just nailed the top of my list of best instructional videos EVER. Forgetting the wheel studs... it's as if I made the video LOL!!! Tomorrow, I will tackle the refresh of my newly acquired ranger 6x6... I have 4 new wheel bearings to install, and I will be sure to NOT forget the wheel studs... if I remove them...
Man, this video was excellent. Please keep them coming. There are so many people that would like to work on their Rangers. Again, thanks.
FYI on a bearing that's seized in a hub like that instead of cutting it out once all the balls cage are out and the raceway surface is exposed dig out the welder and run a bead of weld around the race way. Welding "pulls" and the race will drop out of the hub with ease, and this does absolutely no damage to the bearing / hub mounting surface that cutting with a torch, plasma or cut off wheel.
The wheel bearings can be packed with grease,Polaris uses Chinese bearings. Also on the suspension bushings, don't bother with Polaris junk go to super Daves he makes bushings and sleeves that are way higher quality than Polaris. The more parts you can put in a Polaris made by someone else the better off you are. Also the bearings are two piece rollers when you torque the axle nut you are setting the preload.
Where do you source your sleeves? I'll be rebuilding my front end....
Awesome vid. Answered some questions I had. Cheers and Thank You!
Nice vid. very nice clean shop also
thanks a lot,i fixed mine useing your info
LOL, I bet there was a little profanity when you finally found out about the missing wheel studs. Great video as always.
give it up to ya best video in depth
Remove bearing in your press and re install in your press no heat needed vs trying to hammer them out with a punch. clean out hub with a rag clean out snap ring groove and spray area with a touch of wd-40 it helps bearing slide in straight without getting hung up while being pressed in.
Also seized bolt inside the bushing put heat on bolt head then get a pry bar and hit the thread end of bolt with a 2lb hammer then pry the bolt out between head and frame because sometimes cutting won't work depending frame and a-arm location... Use copper coat it works better than regular anti seize against water and moisture which causes welded parts.
I love that idea! Thanks!
Please hurry up with build on that old Honda I know this video here is old but keep the good work up
should have greased axle when reinserting
Copper coat both ends
I'm going to put a full set of ((( BALL BEARINGS ))) in my Sportsman XP 1000 suspension so no more grease and will last forever.
it was still helpful to see your video. I didn't chill the bearing but I used a little heat, went in no problem. tight fit though. I was able to remove bearing retainer and expose ball bearings. (the opposite side of the circlip) I packed them with marine grease. BTW, do you have an off road tv show in Canada. if not you should, I would definitely watch. a mix of your hardcore riding in different locations and some how to sessions and plus some sponsor plugs.
had the same wobble, turned out my castle nut was just loose lol
Nice , Thanks !!!
1. You need a tool cart
2. Not that I know for certain but I see you used antisieze for bushings and know it has metallic dust in it and is not good for moving parts wondering if brake caliper grease may be better as it also has high temp ratings. Just a thought.
Thanks, great job!
0:45
Me: pushes my rzr and the whole front end cambers itself 5”...
Also me: this is fine...
a press and a torque wrench would do ya good.
I figured you wouldnt be able to just pound it out lol!
usualy i weld a little plate flat on the bering and that helps pounding it out!!
why wouldnt of you flipped the bolt around when installing it so you dont have to remove the front bumper
First you complain about having to remove the bumper to get the lower a-arm front bolt out, then you put it in the same way! I reinstalled mine from the rear for next time.
Exactly lol Polaris always puts them in this way so before I install a bumper for someone I turn them around... Lol fun to watch him
I was going to comment the same thing! That is so funny...mention how much of a pain it is....then turn around and do the same thing to the next guy that will be working on it!
I might bore a hole in the bumper to remove bolt and re-assemble it your way.
I usually stick with OEM.
Great video huge help. I have a question will antiseize help with the bushings squeeking mine does terrible. Your videos are great info keep them going
"Bust a chicklet right out of you" hahahaha!
He played some ice hockey sometime in his life. ;-)
Just did my rear lower a arm bushing at the hub and put zerks in. Should help with longevity . I used oem on rear and super atv bushings on front. Do you have a recommendation on bushings, how about wheel bearings? Great video .
go to princess auto dude and get a little rolling cart
how to swap hub bearing, cut it out with a plasma cutter. haha! sounds about right. 8:56
I also use glide for pounding..😬
Havent driven one so cant say with authority.
You also forgot anti seize on the axle splines
hope this customer isn't paying by the hour. The lower front A arm bolt will come right out if you get a pry bar behind the head and give it a whack with the hammer. Not perfect but it will come out.... Why in the world would you not reverse the direction of the bolt going back together so you don't have this issue again?
My front axles turn when i try to loosen the axle crown nuts. Never had this problem before. Solution?
In putting a 2" lift on the front struts, I found that the DS CV joint was a "bag of bolts" in the CV boot. This video has been incredibly helpful in that lift process and I was able to get the PS strut lifted - it looks great. When pulling the front left axle off of my 2007 Ranger 700 EFI 6X6, the axle actually separated from whatever is in the front transfer case "boot" (a little piece of the boot is still clamped on the axle); I'm now holding the largest part of the axle and the "can" is still attached to the front transfer case. I saw something that the compression ring around the spline can rust and the ring won't compress to let the axle slide out. Any ideas on how to get that remaining piece out of the front transfer case so I can put a new front axle assembly on there?
Drive
one queastion, why didn't you put never sees on the axle when you put it back in, in your other video you did on you UTV??
great video! just a quick question what is the part on which the control arms and the callipers are mounted called ? and what is the part after the rotor called ? are both of them called the hub ?
I never see you use a torque wrench. There is Polaris torque spec's for all that hardware.
My axles are turning when i try to loosen the axle crown nuts. I can't break the nuts loose with the axles turning. Solution? Thanks
I just followed your video step by step procedures for both front wheel bearings.I have a problem!! When I tried to replace the wheels back on, the rim hits the bolt for the steering. Both sides!! The bearings are the right width.The bearings went in all the way and the snap ring is in place.The Castle nuts are going on the axle properly. They are not too far on axle to hub. I did one side at a time. WTF?? Now what?? ted
Think bearing press
Hi. Do you have any advise on getting a axel out that’s busted off flush ?
I just remove the inner race and balls then run a bead around inside with the welder.
Thanks for the vid i have a 2010 ranger 400 front left wheel got some play in it seems to be from the bottom arm think its that or a wheel bearing ? axle seems to have a lil play to on same side any suggestions Thanks
This take down and bearing replacement was very helpful
My diesel ranger chased a pickup truck off our farm that had just robbed us. And I crashed into him and compressed my front end by about a foot. Are frame repair kits available?
Oh sorry to hear that - I dont think so
I have a rear axle that keeps pulling out about a half inch out of the rear chunk. It snaps in place, but comes loose after the suspension is stretched during use. I do not have a lift kit on it. I have also tried 2 different axles and get the same results. Any ideas what the issue could be?
I like that. any welding? I only have mig.
Front axles
lol, nope, we just got er done!
Kealy needs to keep His wife off of that machine and get her to grease and service it when she is not on the mower!
why do polaris bushings go bad so fast? ive had an old 88' trx300 and the a arm bushings are fine and dont squeak at all?
I know someone else who has been a little hard on his RZR *cough cough* :) Any thoughts on the Arctic Cat Wildcat?
What do i need to do?? I have play in my front differential where ny axles go into chunck.
Using German Torque I see...
I got a2016 570 help
I just gota new
Front wheel bearing
N it wont fit
hey i have a 2013 sportsman 400 and there a popping noise in the back right wheel and it mainly pops when im turning in reverese but only pops when im turning any idea on what that could be
Its most likely axle popping @eastTNriders
I bet u were mad when u noticed you didnt put the new studs in the hubs
naw, why bother - just had to get er done.
Did not give the toque valve on the hub nut.
Yup - many differ e- if i give the wrong one and someone uses it they will say it's my fault because they can t look it up....
Those bushings are going to fail even sooner not being torqued to spec while sitting on the ground
I see ALOT of newer rangers needing front end rebuilds...... What's up with that? Poor design?
What language is that? Ooout?
Kid on a bike 11:49
الحمدالله🇦🇪📌
That doesn't look anything like my ranger.
never would I consider buying replacement parts from polaris. garage products or super daves make bushing replacements that will last the life of the machine. polaris parts are garbage