The throttlebody is a mod that’s really not worth the money. It does a little, but the differences are negligible in the grand scheme of the power to money ratio. We suggest using the money for a different model. Follow us on Instagram @ throttle_havoc.
Part of the reason the bore size from gen 2 to gen 3 increased is because Ford stopped using Steel sleeves in the cylinders and used PTWA technology from the GT350 5.2. Pretty cool too see the comparison with an untuned throttle body swap, as I have been curious about it since I got a killer deal on one a while back, and am still deciding on the right time to install it. I expect the gains should be similar on my gen 3. I will eventually be going with a tune too. Thanks for the info!
Yes you’re dead on, didn’t want to get that technical with most people but they changed the cylinder material. If you got it for a good deal that’s great, a little extra power never hurts. We weren’t worried about the price, but we wanted to save others money. We agree gains should be close to about the same on the gen 3 motor, thanks for checking the video out.
People saying to just take the air box from the 18 and drop it in the 2017 and you will see a 10 Torque along with about 10/20 HP difference.. Because It is an inch Bigger in Diameter..
Do I have to re tune my mustang Gt if I put the cord performance 87mm throttle body on even though I have the Bama stage 2 race tune on it now with basic bolt on??
Thanks, she has headers now and sounds even better imo. If you like the sound, we did a whole video comparing the before and after headers sound. th-cam.com/video/_j7IudptdOc/w-d-xo.html
@@mel_s197 mbrp sounds good as well and has a nice volume. I tell you what, if you like the amount of volume now, don’t do headers. It’s an insane difference, and even with the video I linked it’s hard to explain through a video.
Good video, with a lot of valid information detailed within...I put a BBK 90mm on my 6.1 charger with mild mods (forged internals on rebuild, CAI, full custom exhaust, tune, etc) I noticed the BBK only seemed to do well at low RPMs...and it has a lot of dead spots anywhere else in the power band. I still will probably need to get it tuned, as there is a lag up high end on my application.
Thank you, and sorry for the late reply we've been super busy. What is the stock throttle body size on your 6.1 hemi? For this car its kind of the opposite but it makes sense. These coyotes love to rev, and those hemis make a ton of tq and power down low. That might be part of the reason it acts like that on your car.
@@ThrottleHavoc no worries, and I appreciate the response. My 6.1 had a stock 80mm, so perhaps the 90mm is just overkill for my engine...and it makes sense how the mustangs are more peppy and springy all over the power band, where the several hemis I've owned all seem to only have the power down low in the band.
@@Always_Never I’m sure with a cam that 90mm would make a nice difference for that engine. People sleep on the 6.1 but they are really capable platforms. I wish more people built them up.
Cool video guys. Very interesting. Hows it drive? Feel better, response? Graph looks smoother. I like that spot down low where it picked up a decent chunk .
Thanks, it drives good and you can’t really tell it’s not stock. Throttle response may be a slight bit better but overall it’s about the same. The butt dyno didn’t feel much difference, the slight difference we felt might’ve been placebo. None the less it picked up power pretty much everywhere so can’t be mad about that.
Im here to see if the 90mm negativity affects a full N/A Car... i bought the c&L 90mm off American muscle because it was 60% off. Only have boss 302 intake/ long tube headers and catted x pipe (pypes) as well as cat bsck exhaust(also pypes) and tb spacer
Nah not at all, it helps but just not much. For the price it’s not worth it unless you’re trying to squeeze out ever last little bit of power n/a. If you have plans of going with a turbo or centrifugal supercharger in the future it will definitely help.
@@HimGervin I feel you 100 percent lol I saw it as well but I had already ordered the bbk. This car is going to be supercharged in the future so I didn’t mind the price.
GOOD VID BRO!!My 2015 mustang gt 6r80 is running 386 HP with 386 TQ and that’s just with a Roush cai an x pipe and a bama tune I’m putting on a gt350 throttle body and a ported 1320 intake manifold from a 2018* mustang gt (switching to Lund tune) so I’ll let you guys now how much HP I’m making after I get these mods in
Thanks man, that’s good power considering it’s an auto. The Lund tune should pick up power, but yea for sure let us know. This car has gotten many more mods since this video. We haven’t dyno’d it yet with the most recent mods but should pick up some good power. But yes for sure let us known how much power it picks up.
We use a flat head and some anger lol. We thought about using a heat gun but we didn’t have it with us at the time. We just got part of it on and stretched and pried the rest of the coupler on. It’s so tight that it has a perfect deal without a clamp. You can do it, but definitely grab a friend, a flat head, some aggression, and some heat.
@@ThrottleHavoc just spent 4 hours trying... tried heat, flathead and tools, best I could do was get the edge of the rubber on but it wouldn't push on anymore and the metal clamp also wouldn't go over it so I took it off and am gonna send it back, it also started ripping too on the rim
@@dakoolguy111 damn, before you do that which intake do you have? That will dictate the type of coupler you have. Also you’re going to have to go to the auto parts store and get a bigger clamp for it. Honestly though if it’s giving you that much headache I don’t blame you for sending it back. It doesn’t give that much gain anyways. You can put the money towards a different mod if you do end up sending it back.
@@ThrottleHavoc I have the JLT CAI on my 2015 Mustang GT. I appreciate the feedback about minimal performance gains, definitely have been searching for small things to help boost power. Wasn't able to find ANY sort of couplers or adapters locally or online so I'm just discouraged. What would you recommend for other things to do
@@dakoolguy111 no problem, we know the struggle. The JLT may be the problem, I’m not sure what the coupler looks like with that intake. This car has the airaid coupler, and we switched to a steeda intake but it still works fine with the airaid coupler. If I remember correctly we used a 4 inch clamp, and they have them at just a bout any autozone unless they happen to be out of stock so check there. As for the coupler maybe you can reach out to airaid and see if they can ship you one. It won’t go on easy, but that’s honestly the only coupler I can guarantee will fit because that’s the only one we’ve tried it with. That aside, we can recommend you a few mods. Before doing that however what mods are currently on your car?
Yes you can put it on your car. It comes with the little plate that you need to install it. It’s not an adapter, it’s a spacer with a gasket. You won’t need a tune but as you saw it didn’t make a big difference, and the stock one has better drivability so just keep that in mind.
@@TheWavyWorldOfJuice thanks to subbing bro 💪🏾. Yea the gt350 throttle body needs a tune but either way a throttle body alone don’t do much for these cars in an N/A bolt on only configuration. So unless you just really want one I’d use the money to put towards a more effective mod tbh. If you decide to go with the 90mm though keep in mind it’s going to be a pain to get the intake coupler to fit over it.
We had to force the coupler on. Took some heat and a screw driver, and it’s so tight we didn’t need a coupler. If we wanted to put one we would have to get a bigger coupler because the stock one doesn’t fit over the throttle body anymore. Depending on the coupler you may need a new one, it would definitely make the install easier. The one we had was a little stretchy so we made it work, but it was time consuming and difficult.
@@victamone5 no problem, and thank you as well. We haven’t really looked into how it fits with the 87mm throttle body but even if it’s a tight fit it will definitely be easier to get it on.
We get where you’re coming from but We definitely wouldn’t call it cheap, it’s the most expensive out of all the options. There are really only a few options for an n/a coyote with a manifold that has the stock or similar style throttle body mounting. That would be either porting the stock throttle body, c&l(85mm/90mm), bbk(85mm/90mm), and the gt350(87mm) throttle body. Out of the 4 the bbk is the most expensive, and since we wanted to make sure we had a 90mm throttle body for testing, bbk was the best choice.If Ford performance made one that was 90mm we would’ve gotten it but unfortunately they don’t. Edit: so I was wrong and you were correct, there was a ford racing 90mm throttle body. I had searched for a while and I couldn’t find it up until now. The places I looked at the time were out of stock, and all the others said 11-14 mustang. Granted it should be the same but I was worried that if I got it the electronics wouldn’t work with the gen 2 harness since all the ones I found were for a gen 1 coyote. If the bbk ever goes out, we will switch over to a ford racing 90mm but up to this point the bbk has been solid. My apologies again, I looked but couldn’t find the ford one until now, and It’s only about a 120- 180 ish dollar difference. It is still advertised for 11-14 everywhere I’ve looked, but I’m sure it would connect right up.
Long story short it’s from drivetrain loss. This is because car manufacturers rate the engines at the crankshaft not the wheels. Different drivetrains have more or less loss depending on if it’s auto/manual and fwd/Awd/rwd etc. The autos make even less power on the dyno in stock form, but it’s completely normal. We realized a lot of people didn’t know this, so if you want to know more about it we explained the percentages and how the power loss works a lot better in this video: th-cam.com/video/VgzWc7la5bM/w-d-xo.html . Hopefully that answers your question. Now it’s in the mid 400hp to the wheels so if it was rated like the dealership does it would be rated @ around 520-540 horsepower. Go checkout some stock hellcats, stock gt350s, stock Camaros, and just about any car you can think of and you’ll see the car make much less power than what’s advertised because of the differences in how the power is rated.
The car is tuned now, we went back to the dyno with it already on our most recent video that we have out at the moment. We wanted to see how much it would make with max effort no tune required mods. Mainly for the person who wants to keep a warranty but wanted a little more power. People say throttle bodies don’t do anything on these engines at low power levels but we aren’t the type of people to go off of what people say. We wanted to test it for ourselves and document it to show other people. The cost wasn’t an issue, but we understand the concern. We did it solely for everyone to have the data as well as satisfy our curiosity. Thanks for watching!
We had the same thoughts initially, but it wouldn’t replicate the real world accurately. Closed boxes perform better off the dyno anyways due to keeping the hot air out. This video is old though, the car has made a bit more power since then. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@ThrottleHavoc not necessarily true Depends on weather and type of racing you do My pmas on my cobra jet set up felt better than my steeda closed air box. And for regular manifold cars i Guarantee a P51 intake will make more power over that airaid. P51 doesn’t even have a airbox but it sits lower on the car away from the engine. Add a gt350 bumper (gets rid of fog lights and has air ducts) or even just grills that open up airflow and it will be if it even Beneficial.
@@ThrottleHavoc i ran the airaid intake. Was my first mod 3 years ago along with cat deletes. Been there done that. You would have been better off saving money and keeping the stock TB over the BBK the money for those are not worth the difference. But since you already have the BBK TB a GT350 manifold that is port matched to the TB will yeld more gains over the 18 manifold pair it with a P51 and you will notice a difference up top
@@KINGKJ2REAL you’re right it’s definitely a situational thing. Especially if you’re doing a lot of roll racing or you live in an area where it’s not hot open element is the better choice. I know the p51 sits a bit lower than the others so it pulls cooler air than most of the open elements. I’m not sure where you’re located, but I stayed away from the open element filters on this car due to experiences with friends more than anything. In traffic or slow riding I had some friends with pmas and other open elements air intakes that would reach temps of 160-180 degrees and I just didn’t want to deal with that. Even Alex from lund recommends closed box intakes. For my driving style, location, and what the car is going to be used for the closed box intakes suit me much better. We actually put a steeda closed box on the car and it’s been on there for a few months now. We are going to test it vs the Airaid back to back on the dyno. We just haven’t had the time to get to the dyno.
@@KINGKJ2REAL We knew going in the throttle body wouldn’t gain much or even anything at all. The thing is we were curious to see if what everyone was saying was true. That’s honestly why we started the channel, we wanted to test different things so we figured might as well film things like this video because there was little to no videos or info on it. Sure people made claims on forums or on the internet, but we had never seen a video solely testing the before and after of the throttlebody alone. The money part we weren’t worried about because we just wanted to satisfy our curiosity. Now to the manifold thing, it would seem that the gt350 should be much better due to pricing but in all honesty it’s just not worth the money. If you haven’t checked it out, check out VMP’s video on the manifold shootout. The ported 18’ made more power and tq than the gt350 manifold and it was only second to the cobra jet. This is why we went with the ported 18, it out performed the gt350 manifold. If it was a non ported 18 one on the car then yes the gt350 would have slightly better numbers than it. I’ll drop a link to the video just incase you can’t find it. Open elements are great when heat isn’t a problem but for me the closed boxes work better mainly due to IAT. Hot air pulls timing and I’d rather not deal with that. I know the p51 sits lower than the other open elements but for this car it’s not really my style. th-cam.com/video/DO8N-wRcVPk/w-d-xo.html
My God I didn't realize how slow the mustang looks without buying one supercharged 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 you probably have the 3.31 gearing also I assume, that probably why it seems slower, mine came with 3.73s.
To answer your question no, it’s a performance package so it has 3.73 rear gears. It’s not fast it’s very close to stock engine wise in this video. You’re comparing an almost stock engine coyote to a boosted coyote making easily 200+ hp more. Of course it’s going to look much slower lol the car doesn’t even make 400 wheel in this video.
Auto and manual motors make the same power. The automatic is just faster on the track. An automatic GT will beat a manual in the 1/4-1/2 mile run every time.
They make the same power at the crank not at the wheels because auto has more drivetrain loss than the manual version. That being said in most cases sure auto is faster but just by shifting and gearing I have been even with and pulled on many 6r80 cars that have had the same mods and similar weight. The 6r80 gearing isn’t the best when paired with certain rear end gears so no it won’t beat the manual everytime in the 1/4 and 1/2 unless it’s properly set up given the manual driver can shift.
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The throttlebody is a mod that’s really not worth the money. It does a little, but the differences are negligible in the grand scheme of the power to money ratio. We suggest using the money for a different model. Follow us on Instagram @ throttle_havoc.
Part of the reason the bore size from gen 2 to gen 3 increased is because Ford stopped using Steel sleeves in the cylinders and used PTWA technology from the GT350 5.2. Pretty cool too see the comparison with an untuned throttle body swap, as I have been curious about it since I got a killer deal on one a while back, and am still deciding on the right time to install it. I expect the gains should be similar on my gen 3. I will eventually be going with a tune too. Thanks for the info!
Yes you’re dead on, didn’t want to get that technical with most people but they changed the cylinder material. If you got it for a good deal that’s great, a little extra power never hurts. We weren’t worried about the price, but we wanted to save others money. We agree gains should be close to about the same on the gen 3 motor, thanks for checking the video out.
People saying to just take the air box from the 18 and drop it in the 2017 and you will see a 10 Torque along with about 10/20 HP difference.. Because It is an inch Bigger in Diameter..
Yep they are correct the gen 3 air intake definitely flows much better due to the increase in diameter
Get that manifold ported to take advantage of the throttle body. That doesn't require a tune either.
Checkout some of the newer videos, it got a ported 18’ manifold a couple months ago, thanks for watching!
Do I have to re tune my mustang Gt if I put the cord performance 87mm throttle body on even though I have the Bama stage 2 race tune on it now with basic bolt on??
@@vinnieg5991 Yes, it will need a tune for that TB
Car sounds amazing
Thanks, she has headers now and sounds even better imo. If you like the sound, we did a whole video comparing the before and after headers sound. th-cam.com/video/_j7IudptdOc/w-d-xo.html
@@ThrottleHavoc nice! I just put a cat back MBRP on my 2014 mustang and it made it sound so much louder. Not sure if im going to do headers or not
@@mel_s197 mbrp sounds good as well and has a nice volume. I tell you what, if you like the amount of volume now, don’t do headers. It’s an insane difference, and even with the video I linked it’s hard to explain through a video.
Good video, with a lot of valid information detailed within...I put a BBK 90mm on my 6.1 charger with mild mods (forged internals on rebuild, CAI, full custom exhaust, tune, etc) I noticed the BBK only seemed to do well at low RPMs...and it has a lot of dead spots anywhere else in the power band. I still will probably need to get it tuned, as there is a lag up high end on my application.
Thank you, and sorry for the late reply we've been super busy. What is the stock throttle body size on your 6.1 hemi? For this car its kind of the opposite but it makes sense. These coyotes love to rev, and those hemis make a ton of tq and power down low. That might be part of the reason it acts like that on your car.
@@ThrottleHavoc no worries, and I appreciate the response. My 6.1 had a stock 80mm, so perhaps the 90mm is just overkill for my engine...and it makes sense how the mustangs are more peppy and springy all over the power band, where the several hemis I've owned all seem to only have the power down low in the band.
@@Always_Never I’m sure with a cam that 90mm would make a nice difference for that engine. People sleep on the 6.1 but they are really capable platforms. I wish more people built them up.
Who ready for that Tune? Shanti gon level up!!
Definitely going to have to get some racing footage in 👀
You can run e85 on a 15-17 with stock mani & injectors as long as you have a tune
Yes you sure can, gen 1 coyotes are the only ones that need an injector to run e85 on a stock mani.
Oh nice!!!
Cool video guys. Very interesting. Hows it drive? Feel better, response? Graph looks smoother. I like that spot down low where it picked up a decent chunk .
Thanks, it drives good and you can’t really tell it’s not stock. Throttle response may be a slight bit better but overall it’s about the same. The butt dyno didn’t feel much difference, the slight difference we felt might’ve been placebo. None the less it picked up power pretty much everywhere so can’t be mad about that.
Enjoying your content. Just found your channel. I'm trying to catch up. :)
Thank you for the support!
🔥🔥
Im here to see if the 90mm negativity affects a full N/A Car... i bought the c&L 90mm off American muscle because it was 60% off. Only have boss 302 intake/ long tube headers and catted x pipe (pypes) as well as cat bsck exhaust(also pypes) and tb spacer
Nah not at all, it helps but just not much. For the price it’s not worth it unless you’re trying to squeeze out ever last little bit of power n/a. If you have plans of going with a turbo or centrifugal supercharger in the future it will definitely help.
@@ThrottleHavoc yeah imma supercharge it later, i wasnt gonna get a big one but that 60% off was crucial.. so i got the 90mm lmao
@@HimGervin I feel you 100 percent lol I saw it as well but I had already ordered the bbk. This car is going to be supercharged in the future so I didn’t mind the price.
Not gonna cap he can shift
Thanks bro 🤙🏾💯
GOOD VID BRO!!My 2015 mustang gt 6r80 is running 386 HP with 386 TQ and that’s just with a Roush cai an x pipe and a bama tune I’m putting on a gt350 throttle body and a ported 1320 intake manifold from a 2018* mustang gt (switching to Lund tune) so I’ll let you guys now how much HP I’m making after I get these mods in
Thanks man, that’s good power considering it’s an auto. The Lund tune should pick up power, but yea for sure let us know. This car has gotten many more mods since this video. We haven’t dyno’d it yet with the most recent mods but should pick up some good power. But yes for sure let us known how much power it picks up.
How did you get the intake tube onto the 90mm throttle body? My intake tube has a rubber adapter on it that is too small to fit over the new TB
We use a flat head and some anger lol. We thought about using a heat gun but we didn’t have it with us at the time. We just got part of it on and stretched and pried the rest of the coupler on. It’s so tight that it has a perfect deal without a clamp. You can do it, but definitely grab a friend, a flat head, some aggression, and some heat.
@@ThrottleHavoc just spent 4 hours trying... tried heat, flathead and tools, best I could do was get the edge of the rubber on but it wouldn't push on anymore and the metal clamp also wouldn't go over it so I took it off and am gonna send it back, it also started ripping too on the rim
@@dakoolguy111 damn, before you do that which intake do you have? That will dictate the type of coupler you have. Also you’re going to have to go to the auto parts store and get a bigger clamp for it. Honestly though if it’s giving you that much headache I don’t blame you for sending it back. It doesn’t give that much gain anyways. You can put the money towards a different mod if you do end up sending it back.
@@ThrottleHavoc I have the JLT CAI on my 2015 Mustang GT. I appreciate the feedback about minimal performance gains, definitely have been searching for small things to help boost power. Wasn't able to find ANY sort of couplers or adapters locally or online so I'm just discouraged. What would you recommend for other things to do
@@dakoolguy111 no problem, we know the struggle. The JLT may be the problem, I’m not sure what the coupler looks like with that intake. This car has the airaid coupler, and we switched to a steeda intake but it still works fine with the airaid coupler. If I remember correctly we used a 4 inch clamp, and they have them at just a bout any autozone unless they happen to be out of stock so check there. As for the coupler maybe you can reach out to airaid and see if they can ship you one. It won’t go on easy, but that’s honestly the only coupler I can guarantee will fit because that’s the only one we’ve tried it with.
That aside, we can recommend you a few mods. Before doing that however what mods are currently on your car?
Man I wish my 16 5.0 f150 was a manual
That would be super cool, but on the bright side at least you don’t have to worry about mt82 problems such as blowing up 2nd or 3rd gear 😂
Can i put this throttle body on my 16 gt fastback without a tune ? I have a airaid intake as well, i was told i would need a adapter as well as a tune
Yes you can put it on your car. It comes with the little plate that you need to install it. It’s not an adapter, it’s a spacer with a gasket. You won’t need a tune but as you saw it didn’t make a big difference, and the stock one has better drivability so just keep that in mind.
@@ThrottleHavoc bet…it was actually the 87mm gt 350 throttle body i was looking at that needed to be tuned and needed the adapter…i just subbed
@@TheWavyWorldOfJuice thanks to subbing bro 💪🏾. Yea the gt350 throttle body needs a tune but either way a throttle body alone don’t do much for these cars in an N/A bolt on only configuration. So unless you just really want one I’d use the money to put towards a more effective mod tbh. If you decide to go with the 90mm though keep in mind it’s going to be a pain to get the intake coupler to fit over it.
@@ThrottleHavoc alright bet
Going from 80mm to the 90mm, did you need to get a coupler or did the intake tube fit right on?
We had to force the coupler on. Took some heat and a screw driver, and it’s so tight we didn’t need a coupler. If we wanted to put one we would have to get a bigger coupler because the stock one doesn’t fit over the throttle body anymore. Depending on the coupler you may need a new one, it would definitely make the install easier. The one we had was a little stretchy so we made it work, but it was time consuming and difficult.
That's good to know, I just ordered an 87mm tb so I'm hoping it'll just slide on with some effort. Thank you for the reply, your mustang looks great.
@@victamone5 no problem, and thank you as well. We haven’t really looked into how it fits with the 87mm throttle body but even if it’s a tight fit it will definitely be easier to get it on.
Why would you go with a cheap TB like a BBK? Use only Ford Performance parts man!
We get where you’re coming from but We definitely wouldn’t call it cheap, it’s the most expensive out of all the options. There are really only a few options for an n/a coyote with a manifold that has the stock or similar style throttle body mounting. That would be either porting the stock throttle body, c&l(85mm/90mm), bbk(85mm/90mm), and the gt350(87mm) throttle body. Out of the 4 the bbk is the most expensive, and since we wanted to make sure we had a 90mm throttle body for testing, bbk was the best choice.If Ford performance made one that was 90mm we would’ve gotten it but unfortunately they don’t.
Edit: so I was wrong and you were correct, there was a ford racing 90mm throttle body. I had searched for a while and I couldn’t find it up until now. The places I looked at the time were out of stock, and all the others said 11-14 mustang. Granted it should be the same but I was worried that if I got it the electronics wouldn’t work with the gen 2 harness since all the ones I found were for a gen 1 coyote. If the bbk ever goes out, we will switch over to a ford racing 90mm but up to this point the bbk has been solid. My apologies again, I looked but couldn’t find the ford one until now, and It’s only about a 120- 180 ish dollar difference. It is still advertised for 11-14 everywhere I’ve looked, but I’m sure it would connect right up.
What a moronic thing to say, the BBK is almost half the price for not much difference of performance in regards to bang for the buck.
I gotta ask but how are you pushing 389 hp when stock gt is 435 ?
Long story short it’s from drivetrain loss. This is because car manufacturers rate the engines at the crankshaft not the wheels. Different drivetrains have more or less loss depending on if it’s auto/manual and fwd/Awd/rwd etc. The autos make even less power on the dyno in stock form, but it’s completely normal. We realized a lot of people didn’t know this, so if you want to know more about it we explained the percentages and how the power loss works a lot better in this video: th-cam.com/video/VgzWc7la5bM/w-d-xo.html . Hopefully that answers your question. Now it’s in the mid 400hp to the wheels so if it was rated like the dealership does it would be rated @ around 520-540 horsepower. Go checkout some stock hellcats, stock gt350s, stock Camaros, and just about any car you can think of and you’ll see the car make much less power than what’s advertised because of the differences in how the power is rated.
You would have made more power with just a tune compared to a no-tune TB and cold air... also would have cost less...
The car is tuned now, we went back to the dyno with it already on our most recent video that we have out at the moment. We wanted to see how much it would make with max effort no tune required mods. Mainly for the person who wants to keep a warranty but wanted a little more power. People say throttle bodies don’t do anything on these engines at low power levels but we aren’t the type of people to go off of what people say. We wanted to test it for ourselves and document it to show other people. The cost wasn’t an issue, but we understand the concern. We did it solely for everyone to have the data as well as satisfy our curiosity. Thanks for watching!
Take the cover off the airbox
We had the same thoughts initially, but it wouldn’t replicate the real world accurately. Closed boxes perform better off the dyno anyways due to keeping the hot air out. This video is old though, the car has made a bit more power since then. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@ThrottleHavoc not necessarily true
Depends on weather and type of racing you do
My pmas on my cobra jet set up felt better than my steeda closed air box.
And for regular manifold cars i Guarantee a P51 intake will make more power over that airaid.
P51 doesn’t even have a airbox but it sits lower on the car away from the engine. Add a gt350 bumper (gets rid of fog lights and has air ducts) or even just grills that open up airflow and it will be if it even Beneficial.
@@ThrottleHavoc i ran the airaid intake. Was my first mod 3 years ago along with cat deletes. Been there done that.
You would have been better off saving money and keeping the stock TB over the BBK the money for those are not worth the difference.
But since you already have the BBK TB a GT350 manifold that is port matched to the TB will yeld more gains over the 18 manifold pair it with a P51 and you will notice a difference up top
@@KINGKJ2REAL you’re right it’s definitely a situational thing. Especially if you’re doing a lot of roll racing or you live in an area where it’s not hot open element is the better choice. I know the p51 sits a bit lower than the others so it pulls cooler air than most of the open elements. I’m not sure where you’re located, but I stayed away from the open element filters on this car due to experiences with friends more than anything. In traffic or slow riding I had some friends with pmas and other open elements air intakes that would reach temps of 160-180 degrees and I just didn’t want to deal with that. Even Alex from lund recommends closed box intakes. For my driving style, location, and what the car is going to be used for the closed box intakes suit me much better. We actually put a steeda closed box on the car and it’s been on there for a few months now. We are going to test it vs the Airaid back to back on the dyno. We just haven’t had the time to get to the dyno.
@@KINGKJ2REAL We knew going in the throttle body wouldn’t gain much or even anything at all. The thing is we were curious to see if what everyone was saying was true. That’s honestly why we started the channel, we wanted to test different things so we figured might as well film things like this video because there was little to no videos or info on it. Sure people made claims on forums or on the internet, but we had never seen a video solely testing the before and after of the throttlebody alone. The money part we weren’t worried about because we just wanted to satisfy our curiosity. Now to the manifold thing, it would seem that the gt350 should be much better due to pricing but in all honesty it’s just not worth the money. If you haven’t checked it out, check out VMP’s video on the manifold shootout. The ported 18’ made more power and tq than the gt350 manifold and it was only second to the cobra jet. This is why we went with the ported 18, it out performed the gt350 manifold. If it was a non ported 18 one on the car then yes the gt350 would have slightly better numbers than it. I’ll drop a link to the video just incase you can’t find it. Open elements are great when heat isn’t a problem but for me the closed boxes work better mainly due to IAT. Hot air pulls timing and I’d rather not deal with that. I know the p51 sits lower than the other open elements but for this car it’s not really my style.
th-cam.com/video/DO8N-wRcVPk/w-d-xo.html
My God I didn't realize how slow the mustang looks without buying one supercharged 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 you probably have the 3.31 gearing also I assume, that probably why it seems slower, mine came with 3.73s.
To answer your question no, it’s a performance package so it has 3.73 rear gears. It’s not fast it’s very close to stock engine wise in this video. You’re comparing an almost stock engine coyote to a boosted coyote making easily 200+ hp more. Of course it’s going to look much slower lol the car doesn’t even make 400 wheel in this video.
Auto and manual motors make the same power. The automatic is just faster on the track. An automatic GT will beat a manual in the 1/4-1/2 mile run every time.
They make the same power at the crank not at the wheels because auto has more drivetrain loss than the manual version. That being said in most cases sure auto is faster but just by shifting and gearing I have been even with and pulled on many 6r80 cars that have had the same mods and similar weight. The 6r80 gearing isn’t the best when paired with certain rear end gears so no it won’t beat the manual everytime in the 1/4 and 1/2 unless it’s properly set up given the manual driver can shift.