Did a fine job young man. I would try and talk the boss into getting you a dowel pin puller, that was the only part that didn’t look professional. I’m a retired engine machinist myself and pretty much seen it all. And hey, if you have an old small block Chevy oil pan and timing cover laying around, just silicone them together and instead of taping up the block, use those. Here is another secret we had in the shop. First get a hold of a chunk of wax. Just crab a couple nice size candles. Remember that bolt that was broke off in the bell housing? That was the perfect kind of broken bolt, or galley plug this works on. Just get your torch and get the bolt, not the block, red hot. Just when it gets red, take the candle and push the big end of the wax onto the red hot bolt. Just for a one-thousand one. Then grab a vise grip or even a pliers cause it will come out that easy. Try it and let me know. We just used a block of white wax, but it doesn’t matter. The melted wax seeps down in the threads and almost pushes the bolt out. When I first learned that, (not going to tell you how long ago that was) I was just shocked.
You should use a Thread Chaser to clean the threads, not a thread tap. The thread tap will remove metal making the thread larger. The Thread Chaser is the same size as a bolt and only clean or realign the thread.
Thumbs up Ron. I used to have to install a lot of Healy coils at my shop because people would use tabs to clean threads and then they would wind up stripping them out Thank you For mentioning a really Is important step to do correctly
I have never had a block with that much done to it as far as cleaning all the threads. They leave that up to us. Looks great. One question though, why did you take the torque plate off and re-torque it before the final hone?
well prepared video. would have been nice to see you remove that nasty casting flash and i am going to assume you washed the block after machining. don't forget to chamfer all your bolt holes and cylinder bores after machining. just a suggestion, dump the oil galley cup plugs, thread for pipe plugs and drill a 1/16" oil hole.
most manuals say that because if you do not have a feel for the tap and it is actually cutting threads vs just cleaning them. due to manufacturing tolerances you could easily cause more harm than good. so for a novice most manuals suggest a thread chaser. a guy doing this 3 times a day 5 days a week gets a feel for it and can tell instantly if the tap is cutting vs just clearing the threads.
No aline hone/bore on mains ? Free horsepower. On my motors I spend the extra time to drill & tap the oil galleys on both ends as them factory plugs can leak. Also use & let set up Indian head gasket shellac on all freeze plugs or they might leak for a few heat cycles. Did you hone the cylinders for Molly rings or cast iron ?
sir I have a question maybe you can assist with,, here goes.. ,. Ok the chevy small block oil system from the research ive done ive read that the SBC uses a check valve in the oil filter housing that works on a pressure differential.. so,., I have read that a chevy small block with normal oil pressure is around 10 to 15 psi at hot idle.,. If a high volume, oil pump is installed, with no changes to the oil bypass valve in the engine, will the oil bypass the filter, and go thru the check valve instead.. also. when rebuilding an engine, how do you service or replace the oil pressure bypass valve... thank ye! would love to see a vid on the intricacies of the small block 88 to 94 oiling system. I see alot of vids where people buy a GMT 400 series truck, see the 12 to 15 psi oil pressure at warm Idle and panic. they put high flow high volume pumps in and feel they have taken care of the "problem" . but im wondering if they are creating a problem.
I thoroughly enjoyed this video. I have a question though, with the 5 axis cnc machines being produced now, what are you thoughts on using those with preprogrammed block blueprints to potentially correct bore spacing and other factory casting/machining flaws? I know boring blocks by centering to the bore has worked for decades, but I would think having perfect bore spacing would be ideal for reducing piston scuffing and rod deflection.
The machine that can do blueprint bore spacing) lifter bores and such cost around $250,000-$500,000. But customers complain about $200 to bore and hone there block. Figure the math out. I'd rather not have my grandchildren still paying on the equipment,
Got my block back from a machine shop. Core plugs cam bearing and galley plugs were installed do i have to clean my engine again? Im just not sure. Thanks
Interesting you put a head brace on for honing. Does it just help the hone stay true in the cylinder? 30 yrs ago I remember seeing a guy with a Christmas tree on an electric drill!
@@SOLDOZERhe has a good question and you obviously don’t know anything about engines or what he is talking about. Studs pull on the block differently than bolts and distortion is real.
Ex Nascar Engine Builder here, Robert the answer is unequivocally YES. You always do your best to simulate exactly how the engine will be final assembled. Right down to the lubricant used on the threads of the studs. The person doing the final assembly should repeat EXACTLY the procedure done during machining. The torque, the steps, the lubricant, and type of fastners, all recorded on a build sheet so that final assembly is the same as the machining process. T.S. RACING 🏁
Having oil pressure issue. All plugs in block even hidden plug. bearing 2.5 to 3 thou. clock cam bearings/ Hei msd /stock pan with Melling hv pump.1/2`` off pan/20/50 oil wix filter only 30 psi when cold and 10 when hot. Does not increase much when at 2500prm. verified test gauges as well. Bad pump? Fresh rebuild 355. also new bypass for oil filter.
@@JacobVillemain thanks for the reply. I was just curious I've been a engine machine shop owner/operator for the past 20 years and liked your video. We have a 3 stage thermal cleaning system used in the block cleaning process (oven, shot blaster and tumbler). Definitely is a time and back saver. I'd be curious of your charges for the entire block prep and what your geographical location is. I'm located in North Louisiana. Our charges for a 350 V8 are; Block cleaning 100 Bore and hone 240 Square deck block 140 Install cam bearings and expansion plugs 75 Thanks
Not so much a comment as a question...... How do you know that you are cutting at 4.025 say +/- .001 after the first bore? when I seen it checked it was after all four bores were roughed out...???
Howard Henry I first bored it at 4.010” to check the calibration of the cutter. If the cutter is set at 4.010”, but it only cuts 4.008”, then I know if I want my final rough bore to be 4.025”, I need to set the cutter at 4.027”.
@@JacobVillemain I didn't see the check bore in the video...... Thanks for the explanation.........I started out my career as an automotive machinist, mostly heavy duty truck stuff, along with SBC stuff as they had a contract with a bus co. In the end I was working for a company doing Govt contract work........ Gun parts, parts for aircraft arresting gear........ETCC
colleagues...I am very, very curious how much did such a job cost the client in money?? in response, I am ready to answer how much it would cost us..unfortunately, without Rottler
Notice he reinstalled oil galley plugs with drive in plugs, instead of tapping holes and installing threaded plugs. Might as well and gone the extra distance and done it right.
17:45 Does that tool stake the plugs in at the same time it presses them in? I have never seen that before, and that looks like a great way to save time.
Somebody enlighten me. Why is the torque plate used for the honing but not for the boring? I'd think it's more important for the boring where material is actually being removed and it's critical to get the bore correct, rather than the honing where the cross hatch is put on the cylinder walls. Seems all wrong to me and I don't get it.
Holes get rusty. Many of them go into water jackets. I skipped this step once and I found half of my cylinder head bolts would not tighten all the way.
I saw no prep work. Just cleaning and machining. Why not open up the journals and nock the casting marks down. Passenger side water hole usually has half the hole plugged with casting material
If you can find it in your heart to donate one of those four bolt main Chevrolet small blocks send it to odenton Maryland eagle landing way building 2008 leo Brisbane zip is 21113
Did a fine job young man. I would try and talk the boss into getting you a dowel pin puller, that was the only part that didn’t look professional. I’m a retired engine machinist myself and pretty much seen it all. And hey, if you have an old small block Chevy oil pan and timing cover laying around, just silicone them together and instead of taping up the block, use those.
Here is another secret we had in the shop. First get a hold of a chunk of wax. Just crab a couple nice size candles. Remember that bolt that was broke off in the bell housing? That was the perfect kind of broken bolt, or galley plug this works on. Just get your torch and get the bolt, not the block, red hot. Just when it gets red, take the candle and push the big end of the wax onto the red hot bolt. Just for a one-thousand one. Then grab a vise grip or even a pliers cause it will come out that easy. Try it and let me know. We just used a block of white wax, but it doesn’t matter. The melted wax seeps down in the threads and almost pushes the bolt out. When I first learned that, (not going to tell you how long ago that was) I was just shocked.
You should use a Thread Chaser to clean the threads, not a thread tap. The thread tap will remove metal making the thread larger. The Thread Chaser is the same size as a bolt and only clean or realign the thread.
Thumbs up Ron. I used to have to install a lot of Healy coils at my shop because people would use tabs to clean threads and then they would wind up stripping them out Thank you For mentioning a really Is important step to do correctly
One of the best Videos on how to prep a block. Thank you very much. Loved it. Now to paint my block and chase all the threads.
Wish all machine shops, engine builders followed your process. Thanks for the video
He makes it look so easy. Very satisfying to watch.
OUTSTANDING WORKMANSHIP VERY FOCUSED THANK YOU FOR YOUR NO NONSENSE, HOPE YOUR ATTITUDE NEVER CHANGES, BIG THANK YOU !!
very nice work, enjoyed watching the video. Great job !
Use a dowel pin puller, if you’re not decking the block you could raise up some nasty burrs with those vice grips
Most relaxed I've been in weeks. I was waiting to see it washed after the machining. Do you do anything about all the rust in the galleys?
Nice video. Would you explain how you reference the block being leveled, before starting any machining?
I love the smell of WD-40. Still the best as far as water displacement on metal goes. Thanks for the video.
that's what it stands for--water displacement attempt #40
I have never had a block with that much done to it as far as cleaning all the threads. They leave that up to us. Looks great.
One question though, why did you take the torque plate off and re-torque it before the final hone?
Don't forget hidden galley plug in the rear main...no oil pressure if missing.
Removing bolts with the torque wrench. Nice...
Honest question, does that surface rust inside the motor not cause any issues?
Use a slide hammer tool to easily remove pins .They have kits with a variety of cones .
Nice to actually see what I am paying for. Thank You
well prepared video. would have been nice to see you remove that nasty casting flash and i am going to assume you washed the block after machining. don't forget to chamfer all your bolt holes and cylinder bores after machining. just a suggestion, dump the oil galley cup plugs, thread for pipe plugs and drill a 1/16" oil hole.
Mine survived 40 years with just plugs. Plugs are just fine.
@SOLDOZER Good for you, not everyone goes the easy route.
Awwwwsome video. Just getting ready to take my 350 short block into the machine shop!
Hi, I have a question for you. Would it be better to use a thread chaser instead of a tap for the head bolt holes?
most manuals say that because if you do not have a feel for the tap and it is actually cutting threads vs just cleaning them. due to manufacturing tolerances you could easily cause more harm than good. so for a novice most manuals suggest a thread chaser. a guy doing this 3 times a day 5 days a week gets a feel for it and can tell instantly if the tap is cutting vs just clearing the threads.
Excellent. What sealer do you use on expansion plugs and other plugs in the block? Thank you.
Awesome video..... Really a well prepped block kudos to the builder
What is the average cost for magna flux, re bore and decking the block?
No aline hone/bore on mains ? Free horsepower. On my motors I spend the extra time to drill & tap the oil galleys on both ends as them factory plugs can leak. Also use & let set up Indian head gasket shellac on all freeze plugs or they might leak for a few heat cycles. Did you hone the cylinders for Molly rings or cast iron ?
I saw it mentioned the factory deck was unevenly cut. Is that the case of could heat from overheating caused similar unevenness?
I noticed that you clean out all of the tapped holes with a tap, is that better than a thread chaser?
Are you going to hot tank it get some of the rust out of it
Wow, so much work goes into it.
sir I have a question maybe you can assist with,, here goes.. ,. Ok the chevy small block oil system from the research ive done ive read that the SBC
uses a check valve in the oil filter housing that works on a pressure
differential.. so,., I have read that a chevy small block with normal
oil pressure is around 10 to 15 psi at hot idle.,. If a high volume,
oil pump is installed, with no changes to the oil bypass valve
in the engine, will the oil bypass the filter, and go thru the check
valve instead.. also. when rebuilding an engine, how do you service or
replace the oil pressure bypass valve... thank ye! would love to see a vid on the intricacies of the small block 88 to 94 oiling system. I see alot of vids where people buy a GMT 400 series truck, see the 12 to 15 psi oil pressure at warm Idle and panic. they put high flow high volume pumps in and feel they have taken care of the "problem" . but im wondering if they are creating a problem.
How often do you install deck plugs with drilled water passages on your sbc builds?
Where's this shop located? Still on it's 4 years ago lol thanks
I thoroughly enjoyed this video. I have a question though, with the 5 axis cnc machines being produced now, what are you thoughts on using those with preprogrammed block blueprints to potentially correct bore spacing and other factory casting/machining flaws? I know boring blocks by centering to the bore has worked for decades, but I would think having perfect bore spacing would be ideal for reducing piston scuffing and rod deflection.
No perfect in machining: just tolerances.
Cost of new equipment is extremely expensive. Must do enough business to justify purchasing new modem equipment
The machine that can do blueprint bore spacing) lifter bores and such cost around $250,000-$500,000.
But customers complain about $200 to bore and hone there block. Figure the math out. I'd rather not have my grandchildren still paying on the equipment,
@@carsmytruck1 can’t argue with that logic one bit.
I like that shot looking down the journals
Why is the "torque plate" used while honong?
Got my block back from a machine shop. Core plugs cam bearing and galley plugs were installed do i have to clean my engine again? Im just not sure. Thanks
Best way to keep the engine stand from moving away as you apply torque to it...stand on it.
Interesting you put a head brace on for honing. Does it just help the hone stay true in the cylinder? 30 yrs ago I remember seeing a guy with a Christmas tree on an electric drill!
Yes, it simulates the stress caused by the cylinder head fasteners. The stress distorts the bore, and then I can hone the cylinder perfectly straight.
Other than removing the broken bolt, how expensive was all of this? Thanks
I need to find me a one piece rear main 350 4bolt roller machined ready to build, I’m still looking
This video helped me out so much.
I truly appreciate your knowledge.😎👍💪
very nice job
Does it automatically tell if there is taper? Wondering why the hone stayed at the bottom of the cylinder for a few strokes??
Good show!
Very nice! Do you recommend chamfering the tops of each cylinder? I've heard it can help with efficiently filling and emptying the cylinders.
Idk about that...I do it to help install the rings 😅
@@JacobVillemain Thanks, one more quick question. Do you replace the guide pins on the deck surface or just reuse them?
I replace them if I’m surfacing the decks.
@@JacobVillemain Thanks again!
Whats the purpose of these bolts that are directly under the head @ 3:58?
Now if you are running head studs, would you use studs on the torque plate instead of bolts?
WHUT?? This is a block and has nothing to do with heads or studs.
@@SOLDOZERhe has a good question and you obviously don’t know anything about engines or what he is talking about. Studs pull on the block differently than bolts and distortion is real.
Ex Nascar Engine Builder here, Robert the answer is unequivocally YES. You always do your best to simulate exactly how the engine will be final assembled. Right down to the lubricant used on the threads of the studs.
The person doing the final assembly should repeat EXACTLY the procedure done during machining.
The torque, the steps, the lubricant, and type of fastners, all recorded on a build sheet so that final assembly is the same as the machining process.
T.S. RACING 🏁
Having oil pressure issue. All plugs in block even hidden plug. bearing 2.5 to 3 thou. clock cam bearings/ Hei msd /stock pan with Melling hv pump.1/2`` off pan/20/50 oil wix filter only 30 psi when cold and 10 when hot. Does not increase much when at 2500prm. verified test gauges as well. Bad pump? Fresh rebuild 355. also new bypass for oil filter.
I noticed no cross hatch hone.. ive never understood the cross hatch theory. is a horizontal etch the way to go?
Well done!
I am totally mesmerized
It would be nice to explain what your doing
Just subbed! Jacob where are you located?
Yes if you take work, I would like to know as well.
the cam bearing oil holes supposed to face towards the crank so the holes line up for oil ?
I need someone like this in Northeast Ohio for a 302 block. Don't happen to live nearby do you.......
This is art. Great video for sure.
What type of horizontal mill/lathe/boring machine is that? I would like to find one for my shop. Never seen one like that. Thanks
Rotter F65
What shops this and what is the price to get this done
How can I get a hold of you I'd like a 454 gen 6 built
How long does this process take from start to finish ( initial cleaning to final cam bearings and galley plugs installed)?
Working like this with all hand tools takes 11-12 hours.
@@JacobVillemain thanks for the reply. I was just curious I've been a engine machine shop owner/operator for the past 20 years and liked your video. We have a 3 stage thermal cleaning system used in the block cleaning process (oven, shot blaster and tumbler). Definitely is a time and back saver. I'd be curious of your charges for the entire block prep and what your geographical location is. I'm located in North Louisiana. Our charges for a 350 V8 are;
Block cleaning 100
Bore and hone 240
Square deck block 140
Install cam bearings and expansion plugs 75
Thanks
@@keithdumas696 where in north Louisiana my mom lives in Shreveport I will keep you in mind when I buy my next project truck
@@ridinrancher9443 Engine Service in Monroe, Louisiana
Excellent job!👍
Like to see more videos I enjoyed it👍
GREAT CHANNEL LIKED AND SUBSCRIBED !
How much does this normally cost
Well done man
Not so much a comment as a question...... How do you know that you are cutting at 4.025 say +/- .001 after the first bore? when I seen it checked it was after all four bores were roughed out...???
Howard Henry I first bored it at 4.010” to check the calibration of the cutter. If the cutter is set at 4.010”, but it only cuts 4.008”, then I know if I want my final rough bore to be 4.025”, I need to set the cutter at 4.027”.
@@JacobVillemain I didn't see the check bore in the video...... Thanks for the explanation.........I started out my career as an automotive machinist, mostly heavy duty truck stuff, along with SBC stuff as they had a contract with a bus co. In the end I was working for a company doing Govt contract work........ Gun parts, parts for aircraft arresting gear........ETCC
colleagues...I am very, very curious how much did such a job cost the client in money?? in response, I am ready to answer how much it would cost us..unfortunately, without Rottler
ASMR: block engine
Lol!
Dang ky ken co khi a loc long Khánh dong nai
How does one go about removing all the surface rust on the block?
Media blaster then immediately after, spray it with a coat of paint.
Awesome 👌
Nice video
Notice he reinstalled oil galley plugs with drive in plugs, instead of tapping holes and installing threaded plugs. Might as well and gone the extra distance and done it right.
17:45 Does that tool stake the plugs in at the same time it presses them in? I have never seen that before, and that looks like a great way to save time.
Yes it does! Goodson makes it.
@@JacobVillemain Thanks! I like it.
Well hate to be a party pooper but cast-iron does not require lubrication when tapping drilling et cetera et cetera et cetera
Somebody enlighten me. Why is the torque plate used for the honing but not for the boring? I'd think it's more important for the boring where material is actually being removed and it's critical to get the bore correct, rather than the honing where the cross hatch is put on the cylinder walls. Seems all wrong to me and I don't get it.
It doesn’t matter while boring because I will come back in the honing phase and correct the block.
Therapeutic ain’t it! Good work
Yes! Thank you!
Nice job
This may be dumb, but why does he retap everything?
Holes get rusty. Many of them go into water jackets. I skipped this step once and I found half of my cylinder head bolts would not tighten all the way.
How much to do this
Email or private message me to discuss having your engine built.
@@JacobVillemain I need a 350 5.7 Chevy engine rebuild it's rattling
@12:15 Me at your moms house.
Very nice video.
I saw no prep work. Just cleaning and machining. Why not open up the journals and nock the casting marks down. Passenger side water hole usually has half the hole plugged with casting material
The 350 was a great motor. to bad they will soon be unusable. EPA
GLOSS BLACK!?!?!?!?! No, just, no, ORANGE!!!!!!
Almost 7 minutes OF TAPPING HOLES??? Was that really necessary? You tap one hole and all of the rest of them are the same!!!
If you can find it in your heart to donate one of those four bolt main Chevrolet small blocks send it to odenton Maryland eagle landing way building 2008 leo Brisbane zip is 21113
Lol
Raped all gasket surfaces except water pump....wonder why?
Looks cooler
Thats it? No time spent on the oiling system and the drain backs or deburring to get rid of casting sand?? Poor effort
That was a boring video. Literally.
I liked the thread chaser comment, thanks for the comment. That applies to most all threading solutions I suppose?
NO GAY. ADDs
Nice job