This helped a lot. Thanks man! And FYI for those having the same questions as me when I did this. Just shove the positive wire into the fuse are and shove the fuse over it. Also, the lid will still easily close. Just have the red wire come out the side and not the front of the box and push the lid down over it.
What have you connected to this setup? Have you blown a fuse? What's the fuse you've used? Like there's a number on each fuse with a few spares. Will this setup run a dual USB with a satnav connection n the headlights and not blow a fuse? Thanks.
Bought my '17 R3 2 weeks ago and believe I'll keep for a while. I watched your phone holder hardware install video and the charger. Just ordered everything through eBay for $71. Thanks again for posting and making things less frustrating.
how do you put the lead in with the fuse? Do you just take the fuse out, put the lead up next to it then shove them both back into the slot? and can you get the cap back on when you do this?
+Jinsu Kim you can solder the wire to to the fuse teeth or you can just wrap the wire around the teeth and stick it back in and make sure it's snug without any play. The black box in the middle of the red line is the inline fuse which is there for safety.
Thanks for the vid and the instructions, I've checked on my YZF r125 and the fuses have numbers isn't that the limit or to restrict higher voltage? I need to connect a dual USB, one for my GPS so I know where my bike is at all times (has an inbuilt batt) and other to power a Garmin satnav. Will that fuse take the load? Or will I keep blowing the fuse? I have a few spare fuses as you in the box, would I need to change the fuse/ will everything work with a different fuse in place? / Headlamps work fine? Please reply if you do have any answers as you've probably used this setup for a while and know it's limitations. Thanks again.
+MotoOtto you can solder the wire to to the fuse teeth or you can just wrap the wire around the teeth and stick it back in and make sure it's snug without any play.
I think you need to be careful if you're just wedging the connector in with the fuse like that. If you wedge it in such that the connector bridges across the the two legs of the fuse (electrically connecting them), then that completely removes the fuse from the circuit, meaning you have no over-current protection. Make sure you only connect to one side of the fuse.
You're better off using a fuse tap, just remove fuse from the fuse block, plug in fuse tap and put in your fuses. No soldering and it's a cleaner install, plus your usb is protected by a fuse.
That still isn't good practice. Stuffing a bare wire into the fuse leg like that even though it is now switched. Any accessories should be wired in properly with a wiring harness or soldered and heat shrinked into the accessories circuit (usually behind the left fairing) or at least into a non critical circuit (number plate light maybe), lighting and indicators are pretty essential and you are asking for a dead short.
Hang on a minute. I'm a noob when it comes to power so let see if I got this right. If your using the indicator fuse line, then would it be good to slap a slightly bigger fuse into that fuse slot to compensate for the amount of extra power needed to charge the phone plus the power needed to use the indicators? If so, then the indicator fuse is 7.5A. The iPhone phone holder/charger that I have for the bike is rated for 5V 2A. Would that mean I would have to use a 12.5A fuse?
Corrie Linnell are you doing a add a fuse or wiring it directly to the indicator fuse? If you are just using the indicator fuse then no you don't need to change the fuse.
Ive tested the use of indicator fuse like you have done in the clip and it works ok. I'm only concerned that if the fuse blows, then I have no indicators to use while riding the bike.
You should connect the positive lead of the USB charger to "before" the fuse so that the extra current for the charger doesn't go through the fuse. If you pull the fuse, then you should be able to test which end remains live, and that's the one you want.
For real? It was heaps tidier before you stuffed that wire beneath the fuse. You don't even need it to stop USB port from being live, because you're not going to be leaving your phone plugged into the port while the bike's parked up, and therefore will have no drain on the battery anyway.
![Wiring a Phone Charger on a Motorcycle [EP.02]](/img/n.gif)
2024 and this is still helpful.
This helped a lot. Thanks man! And FYI for those having the same questions as me when I did this. Just shove the positive wire into the fuse are and shove the fuse over it. Also, the lid will still easily close. Just have the red wire come out the side and not the front of the box and push the lid down over it.
What have you connected to this setup? Have you blown a fuse? What's the fuse you've used? Like there's a number on each fuse with a few spares. Will this setup run a dual USB with a satnav connection n the headlights and not blow a fuse?
Thanks.
Bought my '17 R3 2 weeks ago and believe I'll keep for a while. I watched your phone holder hardware install video and the charger. Just ordered everything through eBay for $71. Thanks again for posting and making things less frustrating.
how do you put the lead in with the fuse? Do you just take the fuse out, put the lead up next to it then shove them both back into the slot? and can you get the cap back on when you do this?
Thanks for you helping out, I followed your instruction and installed the phone charger successfully.
I also wonder how you connect the plus wire to fuse.. And let me know the name of black one in the middle of red line,which is for the safety.
+Jinsu Kim you can solder the wire to to the fuse teeth or you can just wrap the wire around the teeth and stick it back in and make sure it's snug without any play. The black box in the middle of the red line is the inline fuse which is there for safety.
How do you close the fuse box with the external wire attached to the fuse? Doesn't the wire get in the way? Thx
How did you insert the positive into the fuse? I’m trying but the holes is big. Please advise
i know this is 7 years old, but would this work on the 2023 r3 model?
Thanks for the vid and the instructions, I've checked on my YZF r125 and the fuses have numbers isn't that the limit or to restrict higher voltage? I need to connect a dual USB, one for my GPS so I know where my bike is at all times (has an inbuilt batt) and other to power a Garmin satnav. Will that fuse take the load? Or will I keep blowing the fuse? I have a few spare fuses as you in the box, would I need to change the fuse/ will everything work with a different fuse in place? / Headlamps work fine?
Please reply if you do have any answers as you've probably used this setup for a while and know it's limitations.
Thanks again.
I saw a usb adapter from deltran ( the battery tender ) maker's that looks like it might attach to the easy connect adapter
What if you just have to add a switch in a negative wire, and direct it to the battery
3:23 sounded like a Doberman
What blind spot mirrors did you use? Been looking for those everywhere!
How do you actually connect the wire to the fuse?
+MotoOtto you can solder the wire to to the fuse teeth or you can just wrap the wire around the teeth and stick it back in and make sure it's snug without any play.
Can someone tell me what that big black fuse is. Its missing out of mine and i dont know what it is.
you can add a swith with that charger insted of connecting positive wire to the fuse
I think you need to be careful if you're just wedging the connector in with the fuse like that. If you wedge it in such that the connector bridges across the the two legs of the fuse (electrically connecting them), then that completely removes the fuse from the circuit, meaning you have no over-current protection. Make sure you only connect to one side of the fuse.
did you get the recall notice from yamaha
You're better off using a fuse tap, just remove fuse from the fuse block, plug in fuse tap and put in your fuses. No soldering and it's a cleaner install, plus your usb is protected by a fuse.
Yup that's another way to do it, but my USB cable set already came with a fuse built in so no need to double up on fuses.
vilsioni1 why? Just wire it into the ignition/on switch and it'll shut off when you turn off the key. It'll only turn on when the key is on.
@raldogtm how do you go about doing that?
@@raldogtmyeah please make video
does this method stop your battery running flat?
You're the MAN!!!!!!!!!!! thanks for the tip
Thanks for the vid... Very helpful.
How did you mount the ram mount extension on the tripleclamp?
+Wesley Mooiman th-cam.com/video/gqcdEfXx2BM/w-d-xo.html
Thanks. You helped me a lot.
thx for doing this video , this setup is right? i ask my dealer says that need a Relays for stable Voltage , is it really?
there are many ways to do this, this is just one of the ways... good luck
That still isn't good practice. Stuffing a bare wire into the fuse leg like that even though it is now switched. Any accessories should be wired in properly with a wiring harness or soldered and heat shrinked into the accessories circuit (usually behind the left fairing) or at least into a non critical circuit (number plate light maybe), lighting and indicators are pretty essential and you are asking for a dead short.
Hang on a minute. I'm a noob when it comes to power so let see if I got this right. If your using the indicator fuse line, then would it be good to slap a slightly bigger fuse into that fuse slot to compensate for the amount of extra power needed to charge the phone plus the power needed to use the indicators? If so, then the indicator fuse is 7.5A. The iPhone phone holder/charger that I have for the bike is rated for 5V 2A. Would that mean I would have to use a 12.5A fuse?
Corrie Linnell are you doing a add a fuse or wiring it directly to the indicator fuse? If you are just using the indicator fuse then no you don't need to change the fuse.
Ive tested the use of indicator fuse like you have done in the clip and it works ok. I'm only concerned that if the fuse blows, then I have no indicators to use while riding the bike.
don't worry i doubt the indicator lights draws any more than 1A of power. you are still very safe.
You should connect the positive lead of the USB charger to "before" the fuse so that the extra current for the charger doesn't go through the fuse. If you pull the fuse, then you should be able to test which end remains live, and that's the one you want.
thank you for the awesome video bro
For real? It was heaps tidier before you stuffed that wire beneath the fuse. You don't even need it to stop USB port from being live, because you're not going to be leaving your phone plugged into the port while the bike's parked up, and therefore will have no drain on the battery anyway.
The USB port will still drain the battery because it isn't passive.
another way is to install a rocker switch on the red wire
Yo upload
That wire is too long
Good video, poor instructions.....