Hello. I lost all my cuts with gnats two years ago, the beautiful and healthy plants were already there, they began to die from gnats, the root was full of worms. Do not trust that there is not. Last year I started grafting, thinking it was easier and I bought the device to do the grafting, because what you say is true, why have more trees to maintain, they all failed. This year, I tried to graft again with the classic method, with a knife and I cut my hand and had to go to the emergency room. I think that nature does not help me at all. But your videos are very educational and I love how direct you are when teaching. Thank you very much.
Sorry to hear that. Grafting is my favorite way and have always had great luck with it. Along with a quality cutting, proper storage, Buddy tape, and a perfectly matched up graft itself, I find success lies in grafting just at the right time just when you see bud swell on your in ground tree. The grafting tool is a much safer way to go than a knife. Practice makes perfect. I'd suggest to keep trying and eventually you will have success. It took me trial and error until I found what worked.
@@EnlightenmentGarden Thanks a lot. Every year I say, God give me the opportunity to live longer to see my granddaughter who is 4 years old and is the one who accompanies me on my excursions with my fruit trees and give me the opportunity to enjoy their fruits.
Fantastic update! Great success (so far), and your propagation station is awesome. Sound principles are key to propagation, everything else is personal taste and habits (in my opinion) and you are locked in with the principles. Thank you for sharing your process, I sure do appreciate you.
I’ve been looking forward to this update! I scored my first few rootings and had a high amount of variability. My smaller cuttings (pencil thickness) did great and put out a lot of roots, but larger marker size pieces of the same variety took a lot longer and I ended up pulling them and repotting. I could have had some cutting depth and size issues as well after seeing this video, since those were larger with a lot more nodes above the soil. I’ve got another batch going now, and wish I had cut some of them into smaller pieces, so fingers crossed! Once again, my smaller cuttings are showing more root growth and leafing out first, just like you mention. Great video!
Thanks! The thicker cuttings do take longer but will make for a stronger plant in the long run. For the extra long cuttings, I am shortening some of them now...just because I am impatient. I carefully hold the cutting in place (to avoid breaking any roots below), snip the top with sharp bypass pruners just above the first node and wrap it with buddy tape.
Gr8 experiment. Like the gnat free approach and not scoring or adding rooting hormone. Kiss method on lighting also good. I am going to try something similar with mango seeds from fruit that has not seem cold storage. Cheers n stay safe
Rootings look great. If you keep doing this you might want to get a grow tent and build a 2nd tier shelf. Helps keep humidity and heat especially with LEDs. I keep my younger cuttings or not so good on top and my grow out on the bottom level where its cooler.
Thank you very much for the useful videos you post from time to time. I am rooting fig cuttings around the same time as you are. I would really appreciate it if you can answer those couple of questions for the newbies like me: how long do you go between waterings of rooting for cuttings during the first few weeks (is watering them every week too much water)? How much water do you put in the containers bottom (in terms of inches)? What are the sure signs that those cuttings are either under or over watered? Thanks!
Thanks. The first 2 weeks, I applied water twice a week by spraying on top; no bottom watering. I had heat mats going at 78 so that makes the media dry out 2-3 times as fast than if there is no heat. I did not measure the volume the first weeks but watered by weight (goal was around 1.2 lbs. per container). I did not start with bottom watering until around week 3 and dropped in a 2 quart volume to each bin (holds 20 plants) each week. On top of the bottom watering, I picked up every container and spray them directly until the weight feels right (goal is around 1.2 lbs.). At this point, I no longer have bottom heat on so while the plants have foliage and are drinking more, there is no heat drying up the media so I am still bottom watering once a week and augmenting any containers as needed to reach the ideal weight. A dried out cutting will start to wrinkle up and drop leaves. An overwatered cutting is harder to spot until too late (cutting will discolor/soften) and honestly difficult to do in an open air rooting method with a constant 78 degrees on the bottom. If you are doing a fig pop method, exact moisture is more of a concern because they are prone to rot with all the humidity but with the direct potting method in low humidity with regulated bottom heat, they are far more forgiving with moisture and actually have more of chance of drying out than rotting out from too much water if not checked on
I started some cuttings late November. I've been putting them outside in the sun when the temps reached 70. When the temps are moved into 74 I noticed that my leaves were beginning to will. Now that the temps are hitting 80 I have moved my potted figs on the eastern side of my house. I move them outside around 8:30 am & they get sun until around 1:00 pm. I think that they are looking okay but this is the point where I am afraid of losing them. I live in Phoenix, too, and wonder how you acclimate your potted figs. My cuttings are in 1.7 gallon pots.
The East side of your home is a great location for any container plants as it shields them from direct afternoon sun. That's where I place my newly rooted plants and really anything I container grow. If you can find a spot under an evergreen tree or bamboo that provides filtered light, that's another great choice to offer protection while they harden off
Great video! I have a similar set up going, but was wondering your thoughts on misting since they are open. I am misting about twice a day, but not sure if I’m harming them. They are in fine fir tree bark. Thanks!
Thanks! I do mist the tops every other day or so. I don't think there is any harm in misting them to hydrate the new growth and keep the top of the media slightly moist
When you bottom water, how much are you adding? Do you add any fertilizer to the water? Do you plan on moving these outside once it gets a bit warmer at night?
I drop in 2 quarts of water per bin (holds 20 plants) and am adding fertilizer to that water once per week at 25% of the recommended amount. I plan to move them outside in March once they are all rooted/ leafed out. By then our lows should be in the 50s.
@@EnlightenmentGarden How often do you water in total? I bought a moisture meter on Amazon and have been using that but am curious. I've been taking mine out into the sun about 3 days per week lately. No budding on my really big cuttings but those have only been going for about 3 weeks. Thanks again, Dave
@@davidnelsen9971 The containers start to feel light every 3-4 days at this point with evaporation so in general I am applying bottom watering twice a week at the 2 quart volume to the bin. Additionally I actually pick up every container and will spray them directly until the weight feels right (goal is around 1.2 lbs.). The big cuttings generally take a lot longer to root but once they do make for a strong plant. Hope this helps.
Hello, I have a few black madiera plants that are 2 months old after I rooted them from cuttings. I plan on planting a couple and potting the others. I heard they are down growers any tips on growing. I live in San Tan Valley AZ
This is my 1st experience rooting Black Madeira UCD. 3 years ago I grafted it and will say that the 1st year it was slow but year 2 and beyond it went crazy with growth and production. Feeding figs every 2 weeks with fish emulsion once rooted out fully seems to really help them grow fast. Jury is out for me on how well this will grow on its own roots. If nothing else, you could graft it onto vigorous rootstock if it is slow to produce.
No plans to root trees this next year as I don't have the time but when I propose the next time, I would skip the rooting hormone and scoring as they root fine without it and I would make my cuttings much smaller with 2 nodes under the soil and just one above. I learned the longer the cuttings, the longer it takes to root so all it does is slow things down.
2 Liters approximately. I used the "Solo 419 2-Liter One-Hand Pressure Sprayer" listed in the video description. I filled it with water fully. For each bin with fig cuttings, I'd spray the top of the containers lightly and empty the rest of the water into the bottom of each bin. Yes, most of the cuttings were simply plunged into the soil (no scoring or root hormone applied). My first video in the "How to Root Fig Cuttings" series may provide more context.
How do you know when to water again & approximately how much water is given to the bottom & how often? I had coco coir mulch on hand, so I used that with perlite & a little bit of cactus soil with about 3/4" of perlite at the bottom of the 4"x9" pot. It's been 3 weeks & barely see one bud swell, but not budding out. I do have bottom heat with a heatpad. I do mist when i notice the coco coir mulch drys out, usually daily. Oh... 4-8 weeks 🤦♂️. I'm getting too impatient... oh once a week bottom watering... but how much exactly about an inch in the bottom bin?
My solo watering container is 2 quarts so that's approximately how much volume I put down each week into each container along with the diluted water soluble fertilizer. Once the plants leaf out, they'll need water more often. I think I touch on that in the next video in the series but I recommend picking up a plant and record the weight of a fully moistened pot. You will get a feel for when it's less than 50% of the fully moistened weight. That was my signal to apply another watering at the same 2 quart volume.
@EnlightenmentGarden Thanks for the reply. I try to remember everything in your videos, I've seen them all, but forget I guess. I did weigh them when they seemed fully moistened at 800grams. Then again a couple weeks later with some bottom watering & they went to 870 grams. I guess patience is what I need most. Sincerely, Matthew
@@MatthewsFabrication They are pretty forgiving so the moisture does not have to be an exact %. I forgot myself and was mistaken. It was a 2 quart container for the water. I corrected my comment above. Happy growing!
@EnlightenmentGarden So it's been 4 weeks as of yesterday. I gently pushed & removed a Panache cutting with no growth whatsoever & it has a Massive amount of roots all over & some starting to go up the 4x9 tree pot. So I'm guessing any day or week now it'll start pushing growth 🤞🏻
Not in my experience. The water is wicked up in less than 5 minutes. Initially the addition of water will bring down the temperature of the bin which will kick on the heat to bring it back up to the set temperature.
@@EnlightenmentGarden this is totally totally off-topic I have a few Plumaria plants that I planted outside and a frost came and killed them donw to the roots will they come back out again in the spring
If you check out the first video in the rooting series I mention the need for a sterile media as I am rooting indoors in my home office. I did not want any bugs in my house so I opted for coconut coir and perlite. th-cam.com/play/PLsqSEUyMFGjTOAyJnqJgeM0GeWpypC8Kl.html
Yes! The goal is to get all of these fully rooted out, hardened off and strong before making available on my store sometime in Spring. The only ones I am keeping are the new varieties from Harvey that I plan to grow out and trial.
Sure thing! I have nothing available at the moment but will announce on the channel when fig and frankincense plants become available. www.etsy.com/shop/EnlightenmentGarden
do you need to plant fig trees/cuttings where the original root flare is or can you plant them a little deeper and they'll put out roots anywhere along the 'trunk' ? hope this makes sense.
It's best not to plant a fully rooted out fig tree below grade but if it happens it's less of an issue than other plants because a fig tree can put roots out at any buried node and adapt. Most of my fig trees sank over time/ are now below grade and it has not been an issue
@@EnlightenmentGarden ok i'm just exhausting all options for my original black mission i planted a few years ago. it does nothing and looks like the wood is deteriorating. i've done everything everyone/anyone has told me to do and it's the only tree i have that doesn't thrive. it puts out 4 leaves and 3 figs every year lol and has never grown at all. root flare is even with the ground, plenty of wood chips, plenty of water/food, etc.
@@SonOfAGun1814 It's possible the plant was just not healthy to begin with and pests have been attacking the roots underground. It happens sometimes. I had that occur with a bamboo clump. No matter what I did it did not grow/was stunted. I yanked it and replaced it. You could try grafting but if it's not even pushing it's own growth that likely is not going to be successful. Might be time to throw in the towel. Perhaps put in a Panache Tiger if you don't have one. They grow like beasts.
@@EnlightenmentGarden thank you for the info! i got some peters honey cuttings i'm rooting out now and some mystery fig cuttings a friend sent me from texas lol might replace the black mission with one of those, but i do love fresh black mission figs so i'm just going to end up with a yard like yours haha
![[Live] : ONE FIGHT NIGHT 26 วันนี้!! “คริสเตียน vs อาลิเบก”](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UlIiZ3t8nHQ/mqdefault.jpg)
We had a scion exchange yesterday at my house in Phoenix. I told them about your TH-cam channel and said you're the fig guru in town.
Hello. I lost all my cuts with gnats two years ago, the beautiful and healthy plants were already there, they began to die from gnats, the root was full of worms. Do not trust that there is not. Last year I started grafting, thinking it was easier and I bought the device to do the grafting, because what you say is true, why have more trees to maintain, they all failed. This year, I tried to graft again with the classic method, with a knife and I cut my hand and had to go to the emergency room. I think that nature does not help me at all. But your videos are very educational and I love how direct you are when teaching. Thank you very much.
Sorry to hear that. Grafting is my favorite way and have always had great luck with it. Along with a quality cutting, proper storage, Buddy tape, and a perfectly matched up graft itself, I find success lies in grafting just at the right time just when you see bud swell on your in ground tree. The grafting tool is a much safer way to go than a knife. Practice makes perfect. I'd suggest to keep trying and eventually you will have success. It took me trial and error until I found what worked.
@@EnlightenmentGarden Thanks a lot. Every year I say, God give me the opportunity to live longer to see my granddaughter who is 4 years old and is the one who accompanies me on my excursions with my fruit trees and give me the opportunity to enjoy their fruits.
Awesome video; it’s so great to see an experiment instead of just your own preferred method. I can’t wait to hear your final results and conclusions!
Fantastic update! Great success (so far), and your propagation station is awesome. Sound principles are key to propagation, everything else is personal taste and habits (in my opinion) and you are locked in with the principles. Thank you for sharing your process, I sure do appreciate you.
I’ve been looking forward to this update! I scored my first few rootings and had a high amount of variability. My smaller cuttings (pencil thickness) did great and put out a lot of roots, but larger marker size pieces of the same variety took a lot longer and I ended up pulling them and repotting. I could have had some cutting depth and size issues as well after seeing this video, since those were larger with a lot more nodes above the soil. I’ve got another batch going now, and wish I had cut some of them into smaller pieces, so fingers crossed! Once again, my smaller cuttings are showing more root growth and leafing out first, just like you mention. Great video!
Thanks! The thicker cuttings do take longer but will make for a stronger plant in the long run. For the extra long cuttings, I am shortening some of them now...just because I am impatient. I carefully hold the cutting in place (to avoid breaking any roots below), snip the top with sharp bypass pruners just above the first node and wrap it with buddy tape.
Gr8 experiment. Like the gnat free approach and not scoring or adding rooting hormone. Kiss method on lighting also good. I am going to try something similar with mango seeds from fruit that has not seem cold storage.
Cheers n stay safe
Thanks! I really do like coconut coir for the sterility with rooting and that it is sustainable.
Mam, Excellent video
Rootings look great. If you keep doing this you might want to get a grow tent and build a 2nd tier shelf. Helps keep humidity and heat especially with LEDs. I keep my younger cuttings or not so good on top and my grow out on the bottom level where its cooler.
Thanks--great idea!
Thank you very much for the useful videos you post from time to time. I am rooting fig cuttings around the same time as you are. I would really appreciate it if you can answer those couple of questions for the newbies like me: how long do you go between waterings of rooting for cuttings during the first few weeks (is watering them every week too much water)? How much water do you put in the containers bottom (in terms of inches)? What are the sure signs that those cuttings are either under or over watered? Thanks!
Thanks. The first 2 weeks, I applied water twice a week by spraying on top; no bottom watering. I had heat mats going at 78 so that makes the media dry out 2-3 times as fast than if there is no heat. I did not measure the volume the first weeks but watered by weight (goal was around 1.2 lbs. per container). I did not start with bottom watering until around week 3 and dropped in a 2 quart volume to each bin (holds 20 plants) each week. On top of the bottom watering, I picked up every container and spray them directly until the weight feels right (goal is around 1.2 lbs.). At this point, I no longer have bottom heat on so while the plants have foliage and are drinking more, there is no heat drying up the media so I am still bottom watering once a week and augmenting any containers as needed to reach the ideal weight. A dried out cutting will start to wrinkle up and drop leaves. An overwatered cutting is harder to spot until too late (cutting will discolor/soften) and honestly difficult to do in an open air rooting method with a constant 78 degrees on the bottom. If you are doing a fig pop method, exact moisture is more of a concern because they are prone to rot with all the humidity but with the direct potting method in low humidity with regulated bottom heat, they are far more forgiving with moisture and actually have more of chance of drying out than rotting out from too much water if not checked on
Thanks much for the prompt answers!
Nice set up so what would happen if you leave them on heat until you can move them outside
Thanks! Heat is not going to hurt the plant. The only benefit is energy savings and reduction in the frequency of watering by taking them off.
I started some cuttings late November. I've been putting them outside in the sun when the temps reached 70. When the temps are moved into 74 I noticed that my leaves were beginning to will.
Now that the temps are hitting 80 I have moved my potted figs on the eastern side of my house. I move them outside around 8:30 am & they get sun until around 1:00 pm.
I think that they are looking okay but this is the point where I am afraid of losing them. I live in Phoenix, too, and wonder how you acclimate your potted figs. My cuttings are in 1.7 gallon pots.
The East side of your home is a great location for any container plants as it shields them from direct afternoon sun. That's where I place my newly rooted plants and really anything I container grow. If you can find a spot under an evergreen tree or bamboo that provides filtered light, that's another great choice to offer protection while they harden off
Thanks so much for the reply. I believe I have the perfect tree to place them under... :-)
👍 ... from France ... 🙂
Great video! I have a similar set up going, but was wondering your thoughts on misting since they are open. I am misting about twice a day, but not sure if I’m harming them. They are in fine fir tree bark. Thanks!
Thanks! I do mist the tops every other day or so. I don't think there is any harm in misting them to hydrate the new growth and keep the top of the media slightly moist
@@EnlightenmentGarden thanks for the reply! Looking forward to following your channel and seeing how these turn out!
When you bottom water, how much are you adding? Do you add any fertilizer to the water? Do you plan on moving these outside once it gets a bit warmer at night?
I drop in 2 quarts of water per bin (holds 20 plants) and am adding fertilizer to that water once per week at 25% of the recommended amount. I plan to move them outside in March once they are all rooted/ leafed out. By then our lows should be in the 50s.
@@EnlightenmentGarden How often do you water in total? I bought a moisture meter on Amazon and have been using that but am curious. I've been taking mine out into the sun about 3 days per week lately. No budding on my really big cuttings but those have only been going for about 3 weeks. Thanks again, Dave
@@davidnelsen9971 The containers start to feel light every 3-4 days at this point with evaporation so in general I am applying bottom watering twice a week at the 2 quart volume to the bin. Additionally I actually pick up every container and will spray them directly until the weight feels right (goal is around 1.2 lbs.). The big cuttings generally take a lot longer to root but once they do make for a strong plant. Hope this helps.
Hello, I have a few black madiera plants that are 2 months old after I rooted them from cuttings. I plan on planting a couple and potting the others. I heard they are down growers any tips on growing. I live in San Tan Valley AZ
This is my 1st experience rooting Black Madeira UCD. 3 years ago I grafted it and will say that the 1st year it was slow but year 2 and beyond it went crazy with growth and production. Feeding figs every 2 weeks with fish emulsion once rooted out fully seems to really help them grow fast. Jury is out for me on how well this will grow on its own roots. If nothing else, you could graft it onto vigorous rootstock if it is slow to produce.
What is the clear tote P/N that holding your Mini-Treepot?
I'm using Sterilite clear storage bins in the 28 quart size. Holds 20 treepots. Walmart sells them for around $6 each
Will you be rooting figs again this year? Would you make any changes ?
No plans to root trees this next year as I don't have the time but when I propose the next time, I would skip the rooting hormone and scoring as they root fine without it and I would make my cuttings much smaller with 2 nodes under the soil and just one above. I learned the longer the cuttings, the longer it takes to root so all it does is slow things down.
Hi
Can you post more updates?
Hi! I just posted an update. Thanks for watching
@@EnlightenmentGarden Wow! Thanks for doing that, you made my day :) As always....great to see your work & explanations
So how much water do you add to the bottom?
And did you say most were not given rooting hormone?
2 Liters approximately. I used the "Solo 419 2-Liter One-Hand Pressure Sprayer" listed in the video description. I filled it with water fully. For each bin with fig cuttings, I'd spray the top of the containers lightly and empty the rest of the water into the bottom of each bin. Yes, most of the cuttings were simply plunged into the soil (no scoring or root hormone applied). My first video in the "How to Root Fig Cuttings" series may provide more context.
What temperature are you keeping the bottom heat?
78 degrees F. My 1st video in the series (How to Root Fig Cuttings - Day 1) covers the heat mat setup and more
Great thank you
👍👍👍👍🌟
How do you know when to water again & approximately how much water is given to the bottom & how often?
I had coco coir mulch on hand, so I used that with perlite & a little bit of cactus soil with about 3/4" of perlite at the bottom of the 4"x9" pot.
It's been 3 weeks & barely see one bud swell, but not budding out. I do have bottom heat with a heatpad. I do mist when i notice the coco coir mulch drys out, usually daily.
Oh... 4-8 weeks 🤦♂️. I'm getting too impatient... oh once a week bottom watering... but how much exactly about an inch in the bottom bin?
My solo watering container is 2 quarts so that's approximately how much volume I put down each week into each container along with the diluted water soluble fertilizer. Once the plants leaf out, they'll need water more often. I think I touch on that in the next video in the series but I recommend picking up a plant and record the weight of a fully moistened pot. You will get a feel for when it's less than 50% of the fully moistened weight. That was my signal to apply another watering at the same 2 quart volume.
@EnlightenmentGarden Thanks for the reply. I try to remember everything in your videos, I've seen them all, but forget I guess.
I did weigh them when they seemed fully moistened at 800grams. Then again a couple weeks later with some bottom watering & they went to 870 grams.
I guess patience is what I need most.
Sincerely,
Matthew
@@MatthewsFabrication They are pretty forgiving so the moisture does not have to be an exact %. I forgot myself and was mistaken. It was a 2 quart container for the water. I corrected my comment above. Happy growing!
@EnlightenmentGarden So it's been 4 weeks as of yesterday. I gently pushed & removed a Panache cutting with no growth whatsoever & it has a Massive amount of roots all over & some starting to go up the 4x9 tree pot. So I'm guessing any day or week now it'll start pushing growth 🤞🏻
@@MatthewsFabrication That's awesome! Yes should be soon
Doesn’t the water heat up at the bottom with the heat mat?
Not in my experience. The water is wicked up in less than 5 minutes. Initially the addition of water will bring down the temperature of the bin which will kick on the heat to bring it back up to the set temperature.
@@EnlightenmentGarden this is totally totally off-topic I have a few Plumaria plants that I planted outside and a frost came and killed them donw to the roots will they come back out again in the spring
@@travisdeleon4924 As long as the roots are not dead, it will try to come back and can sprout new growth
Where are you located in garage or basement??
If you check out the first video in the rooting series I mention the need for a sterile media as I am rooting indoors in my home office. I did not want any bugs in my house so I opted for coconut coir and perlite. th-cam.com/play/PLsqSEUyMFGjTOAyJnqJgeM0GeWpypC8Kl.html
Are you going to be selling any of these?
Yes! The goal is to get all of these fully rooted out, hardened off and strong before making available on my store sometime in Spring. The only ones I am keeping are the new varieties from Harvey that I plan to grow out and trial.
Sorry I meant to say slow growers
Can you send a link to your Etsy shop to me please?
Sure thing! I have nothing available at the moment but will announce on the channel when fig and frankincense plants become available. www.etsy.com/shop/EnlightenmentGarden
You maybe should of put them in bags like Notorious fig did and Ross
I've used the fig pop in the past but prefer this method as it has given me more success. Ross has used both methods also.
First
do you need to plant fig trees/cuttings where the original root flare is or can you plant them a little deeper and they'll put out roots anywhere along the 'trunk' ? hope this makes sense.
It's best not to plant a fully rooted out fig tree below grade but if it happens it's less of an issue than other plants because a fig tree can put roots out at any buried node and adapt. Most of my fig trees sank over time/ are now below grade and it has not been an issue
@@EnlightenmentGarden ok i'm just exhausting all options for my original black mission i planted a few years ago. it does nothing and looks like the wood is deteriorating. i've done everything everyone/anyone has told me to do and it's the only tree i have that doesn't thrive. it puts out 4 leaves and 3 figs every year lol and has never grown at all. root flare is even with the ground, plenty of wood chips, plenty of water/food, etc.
@@SonOfAGun1814 It's possible the plant was just not healthy to begin with and pests have been attacking the roots underground. It happens sometimes. I had that occur with a bamboo clump. No matter what I did it did not grow/was stunted. I yanked it and replaced it. You could try grafting but if it's not even pushing it's own growth that likely is not going to be successful. Might be time to throw in the towel. Perhaps put in a Panache Tiger if you don't have one. They grow like beasts.
@@EnlightenmentGarden thank you for the info! i got some peters honey cuttings i'm rooting out now and some mystery fig cuttings a friend sent me from texas lol might replace the black mission with one of those, but i do love fresh black mission figs so i'm just going to end up with a yard like yours haha