I scrape around a 1/16 of the tip of the node off to expose it. Then I put it in rooting hormone. Roots always come from that exposed area of the node.
Great video! I have been using this method for several seasons, only with zip lock packages. The result is excellent, but you need to be careful when transplanting rooted cuttings into large pots - shock and drying are possible when changing the substrate ..
I use it for damaged areas too, but it's best if you do it as quickly as possible to avoid contamination from airborne fungal spores etc. An example would be when an elk smashed some branches on one of my figs and I had to take a pruning saw to the damage, I immediately coated the exposed tissue with glue and later noted how it limited tissue dieback significantly. Of course, sunny, dry conditions work best as you want the glue fully cured before it rains.
When you start your cuttings in bags, did you test to lay them on a side with the stems oriented horizontally ; since it lowers pressure this could give more chance to them to root ?
@@gapey Cuttings with an ending leaf bud should better form roots if layed horizontally in bags. For 2 reasons : it lowers sap pressure that is always higher in upper parts of stems on a plant. Therefore by lowering pressure, this would slow leaf formation and increase better conditions for rooting. Also the substrate moisture and heat will act the same way ; wheras the outer side should be exposed to a cooler temperature around 16/17°C and dryer air atmosphere to delay sprouting of leves as long as possible. Scarification & rooting hormones are needed ; and in Bigger cuttings, saw it was possible to make a deeper cut (not just exposing cambium with a scratch, on the wood to improve rooting. On another hand, double cutted ends cuttings don't need to root horizontally, because they have been "pinched" at the top. So these can be rooted vertically. Btw snowed yesterday evening here ; had just time to protect the fruit trees this afternoon before the freezing period expected sunday morning ! Gardener's life...
@@gapey Checked on the 9 black currants cuttings I made on Feb the 17th , just one has the tip bud on it that sprouted now of course since all of them rooted well after 2 weeks already. I transplanted them on March the 10th (@ 2 inches roots stage) in cutted plastic bottles (3 per bottle), and are staying outside since 2 weeks or so now. Brought them in with the cold and they look ok. I used some pine tar that I rubbed on the tips. I did first let the cuttings soak 2 days in water, then scarified like you did at the base and finally dipped in a glass of water with 5 drops of apple cider vinegar during 15/30 sec. Finally, I layed them horizontally in small taped cardboard boxes on which I cut a upper lid/fold, & I filled with standard potting mix that I soaked regularly with water. Kept them above the fluorescent tube for a while (warmth recycling) first until buds started to sprout. Then went under the 6500 K station. Worked well ; am happy to have 9 more of this variety fruit trees to transplant in the garden !
Thank u so much for your video because it's very informative.. may I ask about the bag propagation, is it okay to place the bag with the cutting inside a box & seal up the box until a couple weeks later?? I've seen someone teaching such on Facebook & I am not too certain about the dampness in the soil & also about not getting mold on cutting..the person who taught this on Facebook mentioning about humility level & total darkness assists in quicker rooting.. please advise here since I just started taking this hobby on fig rooting.. thank u in advance.
Sure putting the bags in a sealed container is what I do along with using a heat mat. Wrapping the cutting that is outside of the bag with grafting tape will help avoid mold forming on the cutting.
@@robertng4286 I kept them in a tote with a lid and didn't open it every day. I don't think what I was using was completely air tight. If it's an air tight container then you might need to.
@@gapey sure, I'm just pointing out the clear terminology error. 10% solution is a 1:9 dilution ratio solution. 1:10 solution would normally mean 9% solution.
Yes I did cover the top of the cutting with the parafilm. I started some new cuttings this season and did not and am finding some of them starting to mold at the tip so I think it's a good idea to cover it with either parafilm or I've seen some people dip the top in melted wax.
Very nice. Had no idea you had to disinfect 😬 Love the new intro format btw. And hope you get 10 more subscribes soon to change that number that shows Lol
Bleach? Ive only seen that in petri dish cell culture or micropropagation. It's going in nonsterile media in nonsterile air. U might want to look up endophytes and rhizophagy. I think it might be a big help preventing disease and pests in the trees that ur cuttings become.
Hi! I moved and was unable to take my fig tree, so I took and rooted some cuttings last month. They are doing well. Ordinarily I’d put the mother tree into hibernation, but they are so small and I don’t want to kill them. They are in 1 gallon pots now. What do I do now? Thank you!
I would keep them in the 1 gallon containers for at least a few months. You want the roots to be well established before you repot them into a bigger container. When you repot them disturbe the roots as little as possible.
It's not horrible. There's more than one way to do it. I didn't use any tape on the first figs I ever rooted and they still did fine. It just helps to hold in moisture. If you have a good amount of humidity then it should be fine.
I've only heard of people using parafilm. not sure about those other methods. Pretty sure electrical tape wouldn't be a good idea but saran wrap possibly?
Hi there, yep I definitely bottom water when it gets dry. I prefer using the clear cups as you can really see the soil moisture. With the plastic bags I would inject water into the holes in the bags when they got dry.
@@gapey I find with figs I get around 70 percent striking rate they are funny little buggers happy sad happy sad but once rooting takes place I find Tarzan calling run David run thankyou for reply 🌿🍀⛳️⛳️⛳️🌹🤟
Interesting but it's a shame you leave things without proper and clear explanation. I guess you think we've just understood. Not the case, though. For example, what's that tape you use? What's it called and what's it for? Also that powder you add to your potting mix. What's it called, purpose etc? Not enough to quickly mention. Spell it out. LITERALLY!
See 8:30 I explain what the tape is. It's grafting/parafilm tape. In 11:08 I say that I'm adding Mycorrhizae to the potting mix and that it helps with root development. Sorry I didn't spell the product for you but you could see how it's spelled if you pause the video and look at the packaging.
Best Fig Pop demo on the internet. Thank you and I’m a new subscriber!
Thank you so much. I'm glad you found it helpful!
Gapey your video has clear information and straight to the point. Thank you. 👍
I scrape around a 1/16 of the tip of the node off to expose it. Then I put it in rooting hormone. Roots always come from that exposed area of the node.
I put a few scrapes, usually 3 at the base of the cutting. Seems to work well.
Great video! I have been using this method for several seasons, only with zip lock packages. The result is excellent, but you need to be careful when transplanting rooted cuttings into large pots - shock and drying are possible when changing the substrate ..
Yes that's true. It's best to wait until there are A LOT of roots before changing pots.
I use it for damaged areas too, but it's best if you do it as quickly as possible to avoid contamination from airborne fungal spores etc. An example would be when an elk smashed some branches on one of my figs and I had to take a pruning saw to the damage, I immediately coated the exposed tissue with glue and later noted how it limited tissue dieback significantly. Of course, sunny, dry conditions work best as you want the glue fully cured before it rains.
Great video, I just air layered my Turkey fig as I never have too much luck with cuttings. But I'll probably give it another go again before too long.
I look forward to giving air layering a try when I get some figs big enough to try it on. :)
With the top cut, I always put on a drop of outdoor grade, waterproof non-toxic wood glue to seal. It seems to limit tissue dieback.
That's a good idea. I saw someone recently use wood glue where they trimmed their fig.
When you start your cuttings in bags, did you test to lay them on a side with the stems oriented horizontally ; since it lowers pressure this could give more chance to them to root ?
Hmm no I don't think I tried that way.
@@gapey Cuttings with an ending leaf bud should better form roots if layed horizontally in bags. For 2 reasons : it lowers sap pressure that is always higher in upper parts of stems on a plant. Therefore by lowering pressure, this would slow leaf formation and increase better conditions for rooting. Also the substrate moisture and heat will act the same way ; wheras the outer side should be exposed to a cooler temperature around 16/17°C and dryer air atmosphere to delay sprouting of leves as long as possible.
Scarification & rooting hormones are needed ; and in Bigger cuttings, saw it was possible to make a deeper cut (not just exposing cambium with a scratch, on the wood to improve rooting.
On another hand, double cutted ends cuttings don't need to root horizontally, because they have been "pinched" at the top. So these can be rooted vertically.
Btw snowed yesterday evening here ; had just time to protect the fruit trees this afternoon before the freezing period expected sunday morning ! Gardener's life...
@@MrWookie21 ah good to know. I usually top my cuttings before rooting but I've never tried rooting horizontally.
@@gapey Checked on the 9 black currants cuttings I made on Feb the 17th , just one has the tip bud on it that sprouted now of course since all of them rooted well after 2 weeks already.
I transplanted them on March the 10th (@ 2 inches roots stage) in cutted plastic bottles (3 per bottle), and are staying outside since 2 weeks or so now. Brought them in with the cold and they look ok.
I used some pine tar that I rubbed on the tips. I did first let the cuttings soak 2 days in water, then scarified like you did at the base and finally dipped in a glass of water with 5 drops of apple cider vinegar during 15/30 sec. Finally, I layed them horizontally in small taped cardboard boxes on which I cut a upper lid/fold, & I filled with standard potting mix that I soaked regularly with water. Kept them above the fluorescent tube for a while (warmth recycling) first until buds started to sprout. Then went under the 6500 K station. Worked well ; am happy to have 9 more of this variety fruit trees to transplant in the garden !
Nice knife, beautiful voice, and very informative. Thanks! I'll have to check out your other videos! Subscribed :)
Thanks for subscribing! I've got a lot of fig cuttings goin this year and they are doing well so far. I've got more coming next week. :D
Great sharing..👍👍
Thank u so much for your video because it's very informative.. may I ask about the bag propagation, is it okay to place the bag with the cutting inside a box & seal up the box until a couple weeks later??
I've seen someone teaching such on Facebook & I am not too certain about the dampness in the soil & also about not getting mold on cutting..the person who taught this on Facebook mentioning about humility level & total darkness assists in quicker rooting.. please advise here since I just started taking this hobby on fig rooting.. thank u in advance.
Sure putting the bags in a sealed container is what I do along with using a heat mat. Wrapping the cutting that is outside of the bag with grafting tape will help avoid mold forming on the cutting.
@@gapey thank u for sharing this.. 🙏
@@gapey do u need to open up the sealed container for airflow every day so there's enough oxygen for the process of rooting & propagation??
@@robertng4286 I kept them in a tote with a lid and didn't open it every day. I don't think what I was using was completely air tight. If it's an air tight container then you might need to.
@@gapey thank u so much for this info.. very much appreciated, 🙏.
10'parts water and one part bleach is a 1:11 dilution. It's 1 part to 9 part diluent for a 1:10 solution.
Yes, you are correct. My bad. Either dilution will work fine though.
Well, that's not even correct. 10 parts water to one part solute is a 1:10 dilution ratio. 1:9 dilution ratio = 1:10 dilution factor.
@@happity Several people have pointed that out. Whether you use 1:10 or 1:9, it will work fine.
@@gapey sure, I'm just pointing out the clear terminology error. 10% solution is a 1:9 dilution ratio solution. 1:10 solution would normally mean 9% solution.
Very helpful. Thanks
You're most welcome!
thanks
You're welcome. Hope you found it helpful. :)
NIce video.
Thanks.
Question
Did you cover the very top of the cutting with parafilm or is open. I can’t see very well in the video. Thanks
Yes I did cover the top of the cutting with the parafilm. I started some new cuttings this season and did not and am finding some of them starting to mold at the tip so I think it's a good idea to cover it with either parafilm or I've seen some people dip the top in melted wax.
Excellent thanks for your answer and your advice. Great day
Great Video...
Thanks!
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参考にさせてもらいます。
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Very nice. Had no idea you had to disinfect 😬
Love the new intro format btw.
And hope you get 10 more subscribes soon to change that number that shows Lol
Well you don't have to but it's a good idea to. 😁
Bleach? Ive only seen that in petri dish cell culture or micropropagation. It's going in nonsterile media in nonsterile air. U might want to look up endophytes and rhizophagy. I think it might be a big help preventing disease and pests in the trees that ur cuttings become.
Hi! I moved and was unable to take my fig tree, so I took and rooted some cuttings last month. They are doing well. Ordinarily I’d put the mother tree into hibernation, but they are so small and I don’t want to kill them. They are in 1 gallon pots now. What do I do now? Thank you!
I would keep them in the 1 gallon containers for at least a few months. You want the roots to be well established before you repot them into a bigger container. When you repot them disturbe the roots as little as possible.
Hello,
Can I do this without Clonex?
Sure you can. It just improves your chances but you don't have to use it.
For 10% bleach solution wouldn't it be 9 cups of h2o and 1 cup of water?
yes technically. :) 9:1 or 10:1 it shouldn't make much difference.
If I don’t tape the top .. is that a horrible thing
It's not horrible. There's more than one way to do it. I didn't use any tape on the first figs I ever rooted and they still did fine. It just helps to hold in moisture. If you have a good amount of humidity then it should be fine.
Can I use electrical tape instead of parafilm? What about seran wrap?
I've only heard of people using parafilm. not sure about those other methods. Pretty sure electrical tape wouldn't be a good idea but saran wrap possibly?
Aloha Great Video! I was wondering about watering. Do you bottom water?
Hi there, yep I definitely bottom water when it gets dry. I prefer using the clear cups as you can really see the soil moisture. With the plastic bags I would inject water into the holes in the bags when they got dry.
Damm they be 2 meters tall now one year 🌱☘️🌱☘️🌱🤟🤟🤟
hah I dunno about that!
@@gapey I find with figs I get around 70 percent striking rate they are funny little buggers happy sad happy sad but once rooting takes place I find Tarzan calling run David run thankyou for reply 🌿🍀⛳️⛳️⛳️🌹🤟
@@davidbutton8497 hah that's the truth!
9 cups of water 1 cup bleach is 10%
The person who cut your cuttings, just messed up
How did they mess up?
Interesting but it's a shame you leave things without proper and clear explanation. I guess you think we've just understood. Not the case, though. For example, what's that tape you use? What's it called and what's it for? Also that powder you add to your potting mix. What's it called, purpose etc? Not enough to quickly mention. Spell it out. LITERALLY!
See 8:30 I explain what the tape is. It's grafting/parafilm tape. In 11:08 I say that I'm adding Mycorrhizae to the potting mix and that it helps with root development. Sorry I didn't spell the product for you but you could see how it's spelled if you pause the video and look at the packaging.
@@gapey If you think that's good enough up to you.