To avoid moisture issues using fabric pots/starts is very effective. I use them and they seem to work well. Because they are fabric they prevent root binding and let air get to lower sections of the pot preventing an anaerobic environment.
I build a pseudo “container” open box using the styrofoam panels you can get at Home Depot. They are very insulating and are very effective at stabilizing the temperature. I find otherwise the heat mat is heating the floor and air flow around the cuttings cools the outer cuttings. I use the fabric pots however . They cool a lot from the sides from evaporation.
White Bataglia, Golden Riverside, Figoin, Raspberry Latte, Smith, I258, Joaulle Noire, CDD Gris, White Madiera, Black Madiera. I have been using a 50/50 mix of coco coir and coarse sand with a bit of Black Gold worm castings. I have had issues with cuttings not sending out roots with powdered rooting hormone so I soak the bottoms in some water with rooting hormone mixed in. I started everything in September. No bottom heat and on my shaded back porch. I moved them to part sun in November and under grow lights in December. The So far a lot of my cuttings have rooted and some have sent out leaves. I258, Smith and Joaulle Noire are the farthest along so far.
I'm not rutting myself, but I'm giving cuttings to my friends. Black Jack fig, which was incredibly productive this season and pretty tasty. And Violette de Bordeaux fig, which was very tasty and pretty productive.
In CT...Green Michurinska, Campaniere (I splurged), CDDB (Late here in 6b), De tres esplets, Negra D'agde, and Long Yellow Neck. I'm going to pick up that heating mat thermostat per your advice...also going for broke, and hopefully not growing broke, getting tree pots. Better have it done right the first time and spend few extra bucks.
MG, your videos frequently lead me down into rabbit holes seeking the science behind the methods. What I discovered and currently understand is that the cuttings should already have the required nutrients within the cutting itself to root and that the addition of nutrients into the mix will only attract if not inoculate (ie. compost) the mix with bacteria and fungi that would likely infect the cutting and cause root rot. So inert and sterile ingredients for the planting mix is crucial. After that, it is also very important to have well draining ingredients that also maintain moisture. Inert ingredients that provide drainage include perlite, pumice, and sand (sand can be sterilized by boiling or baking before adding to mix) -- while peat moss, coir, and vermiculite provide moisture retainage. Another thing to keep in mind when using peat moss is that it should be pH balanced with some lime and/or dolomite powder. If you have money flowing out of your ears and don't know what to do with it, and you don't want to mess with figuring out what ratios of what ingredients are best for your gardening project, you can buy some Pro Mix HP for your cuttings mix. I think they use 70%-80% peat moss with 20%-30% perlite plus they add lime and dolomite powder, a wetting agent, a biofungicide, and Mycorrhizae. Finally, based on experiments done on Mike Kincaid's YT channel, there is no need to score the cutting because all the roots form just below the lower most node of the cutting. Again, thanks for sending me down the rabbit holes of learning to garden.
I only recently realized i could grow fig trees in our area (Maryland)! I am SO excited. I saw a lot of your plants are figs and you have a ton of videos so I am super excited to follow your tutorials. Subscribed and thanks so much for all your videos!!
Thanks for subscribing! You can definitely grow figs anywhere in Maryland. I know of folks growing them in PA, OH, MA, RI, CT...Maryland will be no challenge. I do, however, recommend earlier varieties of figs. This video would be a good start: th-cam.com/video/BOq177kcRSo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Swn5lgaAcRqpgd8f
This is the first legit video I've found on rooting figs. The point is figs have plenty of rooting hormones you just need the perfect environment. You can over do it and stall out a fig with dips and scraping.
I just put my footings following your instructions. Got the mat and the temperature control from your site. I am rooting Noor de Barbentane, white Madera #1, strawberry verte, 1 hative de D'argenteuil, and golden riverside. I hope they root.
I too enjoy trying different techniques each year. So far this year I'm 2 for 2 getting roots to grow on a LSU Purple and Pinachė scions. Negronne, Peter's Honey, Green Ishia, Hardy Chicago, and 4 random varieties of Brown Turkey taken from trees in my neighborhood are all looking good so far. No roots, but only 2 weeks in and no signs of rot or fungus. Wrapped the scions in Parafilm "M" and gently scored the cambium layer vertically.I've got my tote filled with 2" of dampened perlite then have my cuttings in coco coir/perlite and as a container I've got Modern Grower 6 cell seed starting pots. Heat mat on a 12 hour timer, on at night, off during the day. Eagerly awaiting some I-258 scions to arrive from Figbid so I can start them too! I just ordered that Clonex for $40 based on one of your older videos. I always use some rooting hormone and have had overall success for the past 2 years. Great videos!!! Thanks! @themillenialgardener Charlotte, N.C.
Hey The Millennial Gardener! Any updates on how this mix worked for rooting your cuttings? Is there anything you would change for the future? Did you employ any additional interventions after you put your cuttings in i.e. misting your cuttings or covering to maintain humidity? I just bought a bunch of rare fig cuttings off of figbid and I don’t wanna kill them all 😅. Thanks for all your awesome content 👍🏻
I’m glad the leash training is going well! Great job Dale! I failed pretty badly at rooting before I found one of your previous rooting videos, so thanks for an update. I think I’m going to lower my mat temp for those that still haven’t rooted 🤞🤞
I recommend the lower temp around 77-78 at first. If you find some struggle to root, you then have the ability to turn up the heat. Sometimes, they respond to a little more warmth if you're having issues. I think it's better to start low and raise if needed than to roast them up front.
You may be interested in my series on breeding figs here: th-cam.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIHWDFykCI-TRAt-Gm45Wwyw.html It's worth mentioning that if you germinated seeds from a dried fig or an imported fig, the seedlings will be around half male, and the females are likely to be smyrna's. Long story short, they won't bear fruit for you in Ireland, unless they were randomly fertilized by a persistent caprifig. The series may be of interest to you as I've begun breeding figs.
@@TheMillennialGardener "unless they were randomly fertilized by a persistent caprifig." With the temperature in summer in Ireland, it will be impossible to harvest main-crop figs, even he manages to have a caprifig !
@ Mark: If you want to harvest edible fruits in Ireland from a tree coming from seed, you should sow seeds from a breba, this way you will get only exact clones of the mother tree as the fertilisation is parthenocarpic. It should work with the Colar from Spain that are now available in food stores.
I use a grow tent with 2 1000 watt led lights 12 hours on. I use coco coir and perlite and clonex. Some of my trees leaf out before roots develop. Others make roots first. I use the fig pop method. All 54 survived with no transplant shock. Once I transplant I water with half solution of kelp. Continue that for a month then go full strength with fish amino acid that I make. If you are getting rot on some cuttings I would suggest you make sure they are disinfected well for at least half and hour and scrubbed very clean with a brush. Especially at the bottom. In sterile mix the most likely culprit of mold is what was left on the cutting. In the summer I have taken cuttings from the left over branch of my air layers and just stick them in the veg garden as is without cleaning in full sun. They have all grown. I transplant them into pots later. Fig trees just want to grow a viable cutting though is key.
Now that is some timely information. Likely most fig growers - as I am - are trying to root figs about now. I usual use just the potting soil since it's easy to obtain but admittedly I've had mixed results. So, you might be on to something with your mix. I'll be waiting to see what your outcome is in a few weeks. Thanks
I’m truly done with potting mix. It is convenient, but I’ve had too many issues with rot and fungus gnats. I’ve been very impressed with vermiculite with its ability to hold moisture while preventing rot, so I am hoping for the best with this. If you’ve had issues with potting mix, give vermiculite a try. I’ve had better luck with pine bark fines than potting mix.
I use pumice instead of vermiculite. I like it better becuase it doesn't float up to the top when watered like vermiculite does. I use a mix of roughly 70% pumice, 15% peat moss, 15% coconut coir. I also tried rooting cuttings100% pumice, and surprisingly that works well too.
I have to say, using 70% vermiculite and the rest potting mix and pine bark, there is no floating. It is beautiful. Will it work. That remains to be seen. All I know is that coir, peat and potting mix alone doesn’t work for me 😂
@@TheMillennialGardener Yea, I think your mix looks good. It actually looks almost identical to mine. I was thinking of perlite that floats, not vermiculite. I haven't tried using vermiculite yet. I will try that next time and compare to pumice. I also have better luck not scoring the side of the fig cutting, and not using any rooting hormone.
I’ve used both and find that the Pearlite usually floats. It’s bright white, puffy, and super light. Vermiculite is much heavier and does not normally float. Vermiculite does come in different grinds. If yours is floating, try a courser grind. Ag supply companies sell different grinds, not sure what grind size is in Vigro brand.
Ok. I am rooting some I-258 cuttings. Put in rooting medium as shown above on 25 Feb except I used a clear plastic cup. I did wrap them in parafilm. They are on the top of a bookshelf so they get very minimal light. No roots showing yet but I am getting buds on one of four cuttings popping through the parafilm. What do I do - pinch them off, leave them alone, put in a closet so it gets no light at all? Recommendations are welcome. Thanks for such a GREAT site.
I always use powder hormone it works great, and I also just used 50/50 peat moss or coconut coir and sand, every singly cutting out of my 8 successfully rooted.
Thanks for your videos! Do you have any updates on this method? I will be rooting fig cuttings for the first time in a few days and want to use this method!
Fantastic video! Everything I need to learn to rooting figs! This is my first time to do it myself! I will follow all your process step by step in the next few days! Questions, do I need to “ water” them since they are on the heating mat, would they dehydrated? Or should I cover them with plastic sheeting ( punched holes)?
So I followed your way in my cutting this year and so far so good. 28 days in and I have lots of growth but not yet 100% but may have some late bloomers. When do you start fertilizing?
Great video. New to propagating fig cuttings. I ordered cuttings from figbid Nov 23 and wonder how soon after receiving them should I pot them? Thanks.
have you tried sand for a rooting medium, it works very well in my rooting beds, drains well, retains moisture, easy to transplant cuttings to pots and free down by the creek near my home
Glad I could be timely. I am watering my figs with a spray bottle, actually. I'm monitoring the tops every few days and making sure they don't dry out too much. The good thing about vermiculite is it's very rot resistant.
It appears that you have trellis the trees that are behind you. I was just curious if you are training them and to grow the branches lateral. This is the technique that we have used in training, cherry trees.
A very helpful and timely video !! Do you have a video that addresses what type of soil/medium you use once you up-pot your cuttings. If not, could you provide a quick breakdown of what you like to use? Thanks !
When you say they take 3-6 wks to root, does that mean they're ready to plant out in the ground at 6 wks? Or would you leave them in their starter pots until the roots develop further and a root ball is more likely to hold together? Great video, thanks!
No. It takes 3-6 weeks on average for the cuttings to send the first roots. After that, it will take about another 2 months for the cuttings to be ready for transplant. All said and done, taking a fig cutting from a dormant cutting to a transplant takes anywhere from 3-5 months depending on how fast the fig decides to grow, how much sun and warmth it gets, the size of your container, etc. Usually, my cuttings started in Dec/Jan are ready for transplant in March/April. You definitely don't want to rush them, because if the root ball falls apart during transplant, they have a high death rate.
So I'm going to take cuttings from my Chicago hardy I'm container growing in zone 5B. Could I keep the cuttings dormant over winter and try rooting them a little closer to spring?
We have just a common fig from our local big box store, it does produce spring figs, but this will be our second season in the ground. Looking forward to our spring crop this year with tons of this year's growth.
@@TheMillennialGardener I've noticed... Lol we want to keep our figs pruned tight and hope for a good dense crop. At least we'll try and see if it works!
Thanks my man. This is exactly what I needed. I got instructions with my cuttings and they said to lay the cuttings horizontally and cover with soil on the top and bottom while in a plastic bag.I feel like that would make it rot, right?
Hoi Millennial, thanks for the presentation. I now know more how to successfully grow fig three from cutting; waiting for your the Italian-258 cutting till then cheers and thanks.
Thank you! The cuttings will be available shortly, within the next 2-3 weeks. Keep an eye out for the official video, which will be coming in the first half of January!
@@TheMillennialGardener To tell you the truth I can't wait. I will have three different figs fruit, if there is any question!? I'll leave you a message thank you, so much.
I was pruning my fig tree that has been in the ground since September and I pruned a branch/cutting that already had roots connected to it. What would you do with that cutting? It's about 8 inches long, has no leaves and I currently have the cutting sitting in a container with peat / soil mix in my cool garage. Should I leave it in the shade / cold until spring and then move it outside or put it outside already? Plant it in the ground? Thanks! I'm a fellow Wilmingtonian.
As an alternative, instead of adding boiling water, could you bake the potting soil and the pine bark mulch in the oven like you did in previous years? Is vermiculite better than perlite when rooting fig cuttings?
Yes, you can bake it. It starts getting tough when you have a lot of potting mix, though, and boiling water becomes easier to sanitize large batches of mix. I wouldn't use vermiculite to root cuttings again. It holds too much moisture. Vermiculite is made to hold moisture. Perlite is made to add drainage. They aren't interchangeable, and they have very different effects on mixes. Vermiculite is for making seed-starting mix. Perlite is for making container mix and improving drainage.
Last year, I used a 50% vermiculite and 50% perlite mix. While 100% of my Hardy Chicago cuttings rooted well, they did not transplant well and I lost most of my plants. This year, I have added some potting mix with the vermiculite and perlite (approx 1/3 of each). I am hopeful this combo will work well.
This is my concern with vermiculite. I'm afraid the root balls won't hold together as well. The key to up-potting figs is to let the roots harden off. Up-potting figs when the roots are still white can lead to a high degree of failure. Once the roots get wiry and orange, they are more resilient. The good news is, in these 4"x9" tree pots, you can let the cuttings grow to be in a pretty advanced state before up-potting. Up-potting too soon is a real problem with rooted fig cuttings.
Before I saw this video I watched an earlier one where you had the pine mulch top/bottom and didn't use Vermiculite. I made a bunch of cuttings on Dec 31st and used my Cloning gel. Should I repot these or just let them be? I have them on a heating matt and I just checked the temperature and it came out at 77F. I did heat the mulch in the oven at 300 for an hour, but my soil in the cups is a mix of Perlite and potting soil. Thanks and I really enjoy all of the content. Dave
There is no reason to re-pot. I have never used vermiculite before for rooting figs, so this is an experiment. I like trying new things and seeing how they perform. This could be great, or it could be a disaster. I'm not sure what to expect. If your method works for you, don't change it. 77F is the ideal temp, I think.
Is there anything wrong with using a root stimulator? I have had good success rooting cuttings from mint plants (that were in a soup I ordered!) So why not with a tree cutting?
Some Chinese people say 100% vermiculite is fine for fig cuttings propagation, too. I am trying too. but I've added some boost. I've used rooting solution to immerse my cuttings before propagation. IBA and NAA don't have to be in powder form or gel form.
I've heard of folks having a lot of success rooting in 100% vermiculite, and I had great success starting fig seeds in pure vermiculite. I figure it's worth a shot.
I'm waiting some cuttings from Pons himself (not in the US) nice to know all of this. I'm surely doing backup grafts anyway, because no matter how good you do it, some of them won't make it, that's what I've learned in 3 years of fig rooting. Have you tried rooting in water?
You can find him on FB, I've sent him a mail to the address on his website but he never saw it. But he enters FB once in a while and check his messages
Set my cuttings on top of fridge stays around 74 put lid on bin, a few cuttings got moldy, some doing fine. Never covered bin before, had much better success
If they are getting moldy, it is likely too much moisture in the mix. I have these issues when I use a mix heavy in coir or peat moss. I'm hoping the vermiculite solves the problem.
hi, thanks for all your info.. Our peppers are amazing following your bone meal tip, fertilizing schedule and topping them. Anyway, ordered some fig cuttings and watched this video several times.....do the cuttings get any water while waiting for them to root? Followed your tips for the pencil lead size tiny fig plants ordered in the spring and some are over 5 foot tall, some have figlets, 8A so will not ripen this late. Never started cuttings and it seems like they should be watered. Warming pad arrived 2 days after planting the fresh Violette de Bordeaux cuttings, using the procedure you described. Back to the point, do the cuttings need water? ty
Does up-potting when the figs have gone dormant help with survival? I know it would take longer, but what about waiting until the following winter before disturbing the plant?
How do those cuttings react to artificial light? I don't want to put them in a dark place but don't know about home lighting either. Much thanks. I have a TX Strawberry fig that I want to replant back in it's container this winter & want more of them. Not sure if I should root prune first, then trim branches, or other way around. I also wonder if screened cypress bark will be okay instead of pine. Not sure I want to take the chance of losing cuttings, but not going to take as many cuttings as you & have no use for pine otherwise. Got to get your Japanese saw!
Actually, yes, that is generally my indicator that they're ready for transplant. With these 4"x9" tree plots, you have to up-pot when you're confident the tree is ready. It's usually pretty obvious, because either the cuttings have so many leaves on it it's clear they have a healthy root system, or the roots start coming out of the bottom drain holes.
@@TheMillennialGardener just dovetailing off that question, when will you start watering if you can't see the roots? I'm assuming because they're in the dark they'll have little top growth to indicate. Do you have a ballpark time frame?
Great video. I have tried this method and also perlite and vermiculite together . The last 2 years I have used a mix of co co coir, perlite, and potting soil with a small sprinkle of mosquito bits mixed in for my medium. It has worked out great for me here in Boston. I also have had success with rooting with hormone and without. I also plant with parafilm and without. When without I find I have to mist my cuttings every other day. I found that scoring the bottom of the cutting never made a difference with rotting. It WAS and STILL IS "TOO MUCH WATER". I found that in my own and fellow gardeners plantings. Hope this helps someone. Remember folks, Back Off the water!! Have a great coming season to all.
How much coir do you put in as a percentage of the ratio? For me, the coir is extremely problematic. It dries out so quickly up top, but it stays sopping wet on the bottom.
@@TheMillennialGardener I am using 1/3 of each and maybe a pinch more perlite. I pre soak medium to the squeeze method. I don`t worry about the top of the container. When I do water, I use a food baster and squirt the sides of the container where the roots are showing and NOT in the middle of the plant, Pad is set at 75F and the ambient room temp is about 60F. I put a cover on top of my cuttings that have no parafilm slightly cracked open. 3/4 weeks to root and then light with pad still on. When potting up, I pre wet all cuttings about 6/12 hours before planting in new container. The cuttings hold together better when transplanting and I use the same type of medium and there is no or very little shock. Try it my name sake, experiment!! You are providing a great service to thousands of people! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
@@TheMillennialGardener Forgot to mention that when I had sopping wet bottoms I found that it was from OVER WATERING ( was my weakness) or not enough perlite. I also put drainage holes op 1" up from the bottom of container.
Thank you. It is actually a wired microphone. I've experimented with a couple different wireless brands, but I never really liked the audio. The wired mic's are annoying, but they work so much better.
The issue I have is mostly of hygienics. I have tried the peroxide/water soak, clorox/water soak, clorox/water and mild brushing . No matter what I try I seem to develop a white mold that once it starts, you might as well throw it out. Wrapping the tops with wax grafting tape seems to help but not entirely. I have tried the clonex gel, and a powder form both with mixed results. I do think the gel maybe holds too much moisture and starts the rot process sooner. It is a fine line between too dry and too wet. Basically, these things need about as much moisture to root as your breath. But as soon as the buds break, then they can dry out so quickly. A lot of folks say as soon as the buds break to make sure they get plenty of light. I seem to loose a lot of cuttings at any stage that is a change in conditions. That could be temperature, humidity, or light and of course at up-potting. I have not tried your methods. Most of my rooting successes have been with large 32oz, clear plastic drink cups with lids with the oil dry clay product as the medium. I use a soldering iron to melt the centers of the lids out to slightly bigger than the cutting. I then melt from the center to the edge of the top so it can be easily removed later. This helps keep the moisture levels consistent and keep the fungus gnats out. Of course on a temp controlled heat mat and under a LED grow light once buds break. I was able to get of few of those same tree pots and they are great!. I had two smiths root successfully in a very light pine bark mix. They took their sweet time rooting though. The amount of medium I think can play a big part on moisture control. Not enough and they dry out too easily, too much and it retains too much moisture, do not enough air flow and they rot. I have tried all the methods of scoring and no scoring, thru the node, below the nodes at the ends and with varying results. And for anyone just getting started with any type cuttings, purchase some of those yellow sticky traps for the fungus gnats that you are going to have to battle and good luck with that , you are going to need it! I tried the mosquito bits and they did not seem to work for me. But the challenge is what makes it fun!
I am having some of the fuzz form on the top of the vermiculite, so I feel your pain. That is very annoying, and it is a bad sign. I have a feeling that at the end of the day, I will just want to go back to the pine bark mix. That seems totally resistant to the white fuzz. I don't think the moisture is necessarily the issue, as Mike Kincaid *SOAKS* his cuttings and they all root like crazy. I think it's largely conditions-based. I'm in the process of having a sunroom constructed, and I honestly think that may help my chances. Once it's complete, I am going to try setting up a little card table in there and rooting in full sunlight. The sunlight should sterilize the soil and help keep that fuzz at bay.
@@TheMillennialGardener I tried everything I could think of. First cleaning the cuttings once they arrive. Then after the first signs I have tried darkness, full sun, alcohol, Clorox of varying strength, nothingness by stops it. It gets into the wood and will turn pinkish and then the cutting dehydrates. None of them have rooted once that happens. I had several cuttings from one person and I only tried two cuttings at a time, but all of them were infected with the spores evidently as they all died from it. Not what you want to hear I know.
I looked in your description and store but could not find the large mat you recommend. Would you be so kind as to give me details so I can order one? Thank you.
Here is why cinnamon may help you ! "One of the most well-established properties of cinnamon extracts, essential oils and their components is the antibacterial activity against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria responsible for human infectious diseases and degradation of food or cosmetics."
There is no "hormone" in cinnamon. It does have anti fungal properties which does help. Rooting hormone contains IBA, IBB (Indole-butyric acid) or NAA, which cinnamon does not have
I have never rooted figs in total darkness. I always root them in the corner of a room away from any direct light. Fig cuttings can be rooted in total darkness, but you need to keep an eye on them because if the buds decide to break in total darkness, the cuttings will grow sickly growth. Keeping them out of light will slow bud break, but it's inevitable, especially if the conditions are too warm.
The mix of pine bark mini nuggets, a bit of soil and vermiculite - that sounds great! I have a feeling that this mix would also work great for rutting black currants. What do you think?
I do not have any experience with the currants. However, I find a heavily-vermiculite mixture to be excellent for seed germination. If it works for rooting figs and germinating seeds, I would anticipate it being good for many other applications. It's worth a shot.
@@TheMillennialGardener - right! Vermiculite is great seed starting medium. Speaking about currants: they need moist medium for rooting and they are not particularly prone to root. And they loves cold more than heat, so for currants I wouldn't use any heat.
Great video! Got my tree pots (4” x 9”) and crate, growing medium, heat mats and thermostat regulator, and fig cuttings too! Just need to get my hands on that plastic tote you have. What size is it and where’s you get it? Thanks and great video! Keep it up!
@@stefandomagalski3722 yes, I’ve seen plastic totes in many stores. I’m looking for that particular tote that has the width and depth to accept the crate that holds the 16 tree pots that are 4” x 9”. Notice how it’s placed directly on the heat mat? The thickness of the plastic matters as well. Plus, I don’t want to take a tape measurer to a store and look like a fool measuring various tubs. That’s why I’m looking for the specifics, but thanks for trying to help!
Do you think that I can use sparkling water bottles they are about 3” to 4” w x 7”to 9” h do u think it will be a problem? Because I got some of your fig cuttings and I can’t fin those high trays
You can't use any bottle with a "neck," or where the top portion is narrower than the bottom, because you won't be able to pull the root ball out. It's okay if the top if wider than the bottom, like if you were to use a 24 ounce cup or something. You can go to Walmart and just buy some large plastic Solo cups and it works fine. Just make sure you drill holes in the bottom for drainage.
Sorry for bother but I have another question I can’t find any pine bark mini nuggets any where they say is to early any other thing that I can use or where I can get the nuggets thank you in advance
About a year ago I pruned my overgrown Brown Turkey fig tree, cut seven approximately 2' sections, and put the cut ends into a jar of water. I checked the water level once in a while and replenished as needed. All seven cuttings sprouted roots so I put them into potting soil in the spring. Every one of them took hold and even produced fruit. I've given all but one of them away.
I've had good luck rooting green cuttings by wrapping them in damp paper towels and sticking them in a Ziploc bag in a warm place. I've never had any luck rooting hardwood cuttings in jars of water. I know it can be done, but it takes awhile, and you have to change the water constantly or it will become murky quickly. I prefer direct-rooting in a mix, because even if they root, cuttings are often lost in the up-potting process. I had great luck rooting in a shoebox, but you'll take some losses up-potting: th-cam.com/video/7K6AwTSaBOA/w-d-xo.html
Saturday I removed an airlayer from a tree, it was loaded with ants so I rinsed the dirt and noticed that the areas I scored with my knife didn't have any roots. Probably better to not score but I think we need to look harder at the rooting hormone issue and see if it helps or actually hinders or just nuetral.
What I've found is that figs root very readily, so at best, rooting hormone is an added expense that isn't technically necessary. I can say anecdotally that gel-based rooting hormone doesn't work well for rooting figs in a typical potting medium. The powdered rooting hormone, I cannot comment on. I will never let Clonex gel touch my fig cuttings again. Perhaps a powder has less downsides.
Very nice! Arizona 9B is still waiting for our dormancy! We're getting close now that we had that cold storm that swept across the country. As soon as our figs lose their leaves I'll definitely try this technique out. This will be our first attempt to cloning figs! Your video makes total sense. Thanks for posting this video brother 😎
I check the heat map every morning and saw Phoenix was at 31 and Vegas was at 29 the other day. Meanwhile, it is 78 here 😂 Crazy how that happens. I just cut a few figs for a friend and I have a little sap flow left. We have a cold wave coming through Sunday that hopefully finishes them off.
@@TheMillennialGardener it was reported to be one of the largest temperature contrasts ever recorded for areas of the upper Midwest and Northeast. True Arizonans love the weather changes. We have also been desperate for any precipitation in the desert. This season we are crossing our fingers for our "normal" 300 chill hours for the greater Phoenix area. 🤞
I have never seen a fig cutting root in a week, and I've rooted 100-200 over the years. I think the fastest I've ever seen them root is maybe 2 or 2 and a half weeks. Most take 3-5 weeks for me, but I do this in the winter when it's pretty cool. We're getting down to 2C tonight, and it's dark out by 5PM, so things really slow down.
Not sure if I missed it, but no lid or tent??? Last year, I tried proprogating about 12-15 cutting I took off a variety of my fig trees. I basically had the same set-up as you and covered them....even bought a Govee WiFi Thermometer Hygrometer to closely monitor moisture. My success rate was pretty awesome until I attempted to slowly get them acclimated to room temp by removing the lid a little bit of a time. Wound up losing about 2/3's of them....frustrating to say the least. So this year, I'd rather not put a lid on them.....Have you gone no lid/tent before with good success???
I have a large, clear lid that I set on top of the container and cock about 30 degrees off to the side. I can't leave the lid on 100%, because it stays too humid and the cuttings get fuzzy mold. If I leave the lid off, the mix dries out too quickly and requires constant re-watering. Putting the lid on somewhat off to the side still lets some fresh air in, which prevents rapid evaporation, but doesn't create a rot-prone humidity chamber.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thanks for the quick reply! At what point to you pull them out altogether OR do you begin to decrease the amount of lid until completely off?
Great videos….I recently up potted 10 fig cuttings from clear cups…to a plastic Folgers 1lb container all under a grow light all are doing well..I have 2 that are wilting,,,not sure shock,under water,overwater…any advise. …… How long to continue heat mat,,,,I also have some new cuttings in clear cups, can I put them with my established cuttings under light or not yet…..thankyou much
Wilting can be caused by the medium drying out too much, their roots are suffocating/cutting is rotting from too much moisture, or fungus gnat larvae are eating the roots. There may be other reasons, but those are common causes. Sometimes, a fig will root, then go into decline and rot away. Hopefully, that isn't the case. Fig cuttings don't get "leggy" like seedlings if they get enough sun, so you don't have to discontinue the heat mat until there is good root development,
Perlite is used to provide aeration to the mix, as well as increased drainage. Vermiculite is to promote even moisture. You probably won't have much luck rooting cuttings in perlite. Vermiculite, on the other hand, is an fantastic medium for rooting. The problem with vermiculite is...will it hold together during the transplanting process? That remains to be seen.
Rooting in vermiculite. Why don't you take the mesh bags you sell fill with vermiculite then place in the tree containers. The bag will hold the vermiculite and allow for easy transplant. You could also additionally put some potting mix surrounding the vermiculite outside the bag to act as a nutrient stimulator as roots grow. Once you have roots and are ready to transplant make some small slices in the bag and you're off. Just a thought and thank you for the programs. I refer many to your Chanel.
Turning something like an 8"x10" organza bag into a rooting pouch is an interesting idea. You have my mind going with this one. I'm not sure how well it would work, but it would certainly be interesting to try. I may have to try something like that...
Very nice video! ...but I have three questions. Where is the parafilm, when others on TH-cam insist that it must be used? You have recommended this step in the past. And, do you think your potting mix may be too acidic since a significant percentage is pine bark nuggets, and it appears that fig trees flourish in limestone based soils? Some people also recommend adding oyster shells to the soil, which I believe would make the soil more alkaline as well. Lastly, until we are ready to root the cuttings that we acquired, exactly what is the best way you recommend to store the cuttings? Presumably in the frig, but how should they be prepared and wrapped to prevent fungus or mold from ruining them? I will be rooting Ronde de bordeaux, I-258, Smith, and Negra de Agde cuttings...hopefully:)!
Parafilm is not necessary for thick cuttings. People use Parafilm on thin cuttings, because there is a risk the cuttings will dry out before they root. I find that when I use Parafilm, it's pretty common for mold to form underneath. The risk is worth it for cuttings thinner than a pencil, but if your cuttings are thick hardwood, there may be more risk to using Parafilm. That's your call. Regarding acidity, no. Figs prefer mildly acidic soil between 6-7 pH. Figs enjoy garden lime because of the calcium content. I do not use garden lime. I use bone meal, because it contains both phosphorous and calcium. Bone meal outperforms garden lime. People use oyster shells because of the calcium content. Crustacean shells also contain a compound called chitin, which inhibits root knot nematodes from growing, so that's another added benefit. It isn't about the pH. I store my fig cuttings by sticking them in a 1 gallon Ziploc bag, squeezing the air out, rolling it up, then sticking it in the vegetable crisper. That's all I do. There may be a better way, but that's all I've ever done. In my opinion, it's best to root fig cuttings ASAP while they're freshest, so if you can start immediately, that's better.
What fig varieties are you rooting this season? Let us know in the comments below!
To avoid moisture issues using fabric pots/starts is very effective.
I use them and they seem to work well. Because they are fabric they prevent root binding and let air get to lower sections of the pot preventing an anaerobic environment.
I build a pseudo “container” open box using the styrofoam panels you can get at Home Depot. They are very insulating and are very effective at stabilizing the temperature. I find otherwise the heat mat is heating the floor and air flow around the cuttings cools the outer cuttings.
I use the fabric pots however . They cool a lot from the sides from evaporation.
White Bataglia, Golden Riverside, Figoin, Raspberry Latte, Smith, I258, Joaulle Noire, CDD Gris, White Madiera, Black Madiera. I have been using a 50/50 mix of coco coir and coarse sand with a bit of Black Gold worm castings. I have had issues with cuttings not sending out roots with powdered rooting hormone so I soak the bottoms in some water with rooting hormone mixed in. I started everything in September. No bottom heat and on my shaded back porch. I moved them to part sun in November and under grow lights in December. The So far a lot of my cuttings have rooted and some have sent out leaves. I258, Smith and Joaulle Noire are the farthest along so far.
I'm not rutting myself, but I'm giving cuttings to my friends. Black Jack fig, which was incredibly productive this season and pretty tasty. And Violette de Bordeaux fig, which was very tasty and pretty productive.
In CT...Green Michurinska, Campaniere (I splurged), CDDB (Late here in 6b), De tres esplets, Negra D'agde, and Long Yellow Neck. I'm going to pick up that heating mat thermostat per your advice...also going for broke, and hopefully not growing broke, getting tree pots. Better have it done right the first time and spend few extra bucks.
MG, your videos frequently lead me down into rabbit holes seeking the science behind the methods. What I discovered and currently understand is that the cuttings should already have the required nutrients within the cutting itself to root and that the addition of nutrients into the mix will only attract if not inoculate (ie. compost) the mix with bacteria and fungi that would likely infect the cutting and cause root rot. So inert and sterile ingredients for the planting mix is crucial. After that, it is also very important to have well draining ingredients that also maintain moisture. Inert ingredients that provide drainage include perlite, pumice, and sand (sand can be sterilized by boiling or baking before adding to mix) -- while peat moss, coir, and vermiculite provide moisture retainage. Another thing to keep in mind when using peat moss is that it should be pH balanced with some lime and/or dolomite powder.
If you have money flowing out of your ears and don't know what to do with it, and you don't want to mess with figuring out what ratios of what ingredients are best for your gardening project, you can buy some Pro Mix HP for your cuttings mix. I think they use 70%-80% peat moss with 20%-30% perlite plus they add lime and dolomite powder, a wetting agent, a biofungicide, and Mycorrhizae.
Finally, based on experiments done on Mike Kincaid's YT channel, there is no need to score the cutting because all the roots form just below the lower most node of the cutting.
Again, thanks for sending me down the rabbit holes of learning to garden.
I only recently realized i could grow fig trees in our area (Maryland)! I am SO excited. I saw a lot of your plants are figs and you have a ton of videos so I am super excited to follow your tutorials. Subscribed and thanks so much for all your videos!!
Thanks for subscribing! You can definitely grow figs anywhere in Maryland. I know of folks growing them in PA, OH, MA, RI, CT...Maryland will be no challenge. I do, however, recommend earlier varieties of figs. This video would be a good start: th-cam.com/video/BOq177kcRSo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Swn5lgaAcRqpgd8f
Great video. You are the most informative fig expert I have found.
Keep up the great work. Thanks.
This is the first legit video I've found on rooting figs. The point is figs have plenty of rooting hormones you just need the perfect environment. You can over do it and stall out a fig with dips and scraping.
I'm loving all these fig tree videos! Thank you for putting them up!
Thank you!! Cant wait to get my fig cuttings and try this. Figs remind me of my grandfather-he loved them. Going to grow some in honor of him.
Keep the cuttings from sunlight so they don’t leaf out until roots have formed just explained why all my cutting withered and died! Thank you!
Excellent information! Thanks so much for sharing all your knowledge and wisdom pertaining to rooting fig cuttings!
awesome video. very informative.
I sure enjoy your videos
You are great at explaining stuff
I’m new at growing figs here in the deep south thank you much …
I subscribed
I just put my footings following your instructions. Got the mat and the temperature control from your site. I am rooting Noor de Barbentane, white Madera #1, strawberry verte, 1 hative de D'argenteuil, and golden riverside. I hope they root.
I purchased this thermometer from your amazon store front! Great work man!
Great video! Let another fig growing season begin!
I can't wait! Last year was a dud due to a late freeze, so I'm hoping this year makes up for it! Thanks for watching.
You,, are the fig boss,,,many thanks
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
I too enjoy trying different techniques each year. So far this year I'm 2 for 2 getting roots to grow on a LSU Purple and Pinachė scions. Negronne, Peter's Honey, Green Ishia, Hardy Chicago, and 4 random varieties of Brown Turkey taken from trees in my neighborhood are all looking good so far. No roots, but only 2 weeks in and no signs of rot or fungus. Wrapped the scions in Parafilm "M" and gently scored the cambium layer vertically.I've got my tote filled with 2" of dampened perlite then have my cuttings in coco coir/perlite and as a container I've got Modern Grower 6 cell seed starting pots. Heat mat on a 12 hour timer, on at night, off during the day.
Eagerly awaiting some I-258 scions to arrive from Figbid so I can start them too!
I just ordered that Clonex for $40 based on one of your older videos. I always use some rooting hormone and have had overall success for the past 2 years.
Great videos!!! Thanks! @themillenialgardener
Charlotte, N.C.
Hey The Millennial Gardener! Any updates on how this mix worked for rooting your cuttings? Is there anything you would change for the future?
Did you employ any additional interventions after you put your cuttings in i.e. misting your cuttings or covering to maintain humidity?
I just bought a bunch of rare fig cuttings off of figbid and I don’t wanna kill them all 😅.
Thanks for all your awesome content 👍🏻
Thanks!
You’re welcome!
I’m glad the leash training is going well! Great job Dale! I failed pretty badly at rooting before I found one of your previous rooting videos, so thanks for an update. I think I’m going to lower my mat temp for those that still haven’t rooted 🤞🤞
I recommend the lower temp around 77-78 at first. If you find some struggle to root, you then have the ability to turn up the heat. Sometimes, they respond to a little more warmth if you're having issues. I think it's better to start low and raise if needed than to roast them up front.
I took some seeds from a shop bought fig and put in tissue paper and I now have 10 little fig saplings 😁.thank you and merry Christmas from Ireland 🇮🇪
You may be interested in my series on breeding figs here: th-cam.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIHWDFykCI-TRAt-Gm45Wwyw.html
It's worth mentioning that if you germinated seeds from a dried fig or an imported fig, the seedlings will be around half male, and the females are likely to be smyrna's. Long story short, they won't bear fruit for you in Ireland, unless they were randomly fertilized by a persistent caprifig. The series may be of interest to you as I've begun breeding figs.
@@TheMillennialGardener "unless they were randomly fertilized by a persistent caprifig." With the temperature in summer in Ireland, it will be impossible to harvest main-crop figs, even he manages to have a caprifig !
@ Mark: If you want to harvest edible fruits in Ireland from a tree coming from seed, you should sow seeds from a breba, this way you will get only exact clones of the mother tree as the fertilisation is parthenocarpic. It should work with the Colar from Spain that are now available in food stores.
I use a grow tent with 2 1000 watt led lights 12 hours on. I use coco coir and perlite and clonex. Some of my trees leaf out before roots develop. Others make roots first. I use the fig pop method. All 54 survived with no transplant shock. Once I transplant I water with half solution of kelp. Continue that for a month then go full strength with fish amino acid that I make. If you are getting rot on some cuttings I would suggest you make sure they are disinfected well for at least half and hour and scrubbed very clean with a brush. Especially at the bottom. In sterile mix the most likely culprit of mold is what was left on the cutting. In the summer I have taken cuttings from the left over branch of my air layers and just stick them in the veg garden as is without cleaning in full sun. They have all grown. I transplant them into pots later. Fig trees just want to grow a viable cutting though is key.
Now that is some timely information. Likely most fig growers - as I am - are trying to root figs about now. I usual use just the potting soil since it's easy to obtain but admittedly I've had mixed results. So, you might be on to something with your mix. I'll be waiting to see what your outcome is in a few weeks. Thanks
I’m truly done with potting mix. It is convenient, but I’ve had too many issues with rot and fungus gnats. I’ve been very impressed with vermiculite with its ability to hold moisture while preventing rot, so I am hoping for the best with this. If you’ve had issues with potting mix, give vermiculite a try. I’ve had better luck with pine bark fines than potting mix.
@@TheMillennialGardener Looks like I might have to expand my knowledge and modify some techniques. 😉
I use pumice instead of vermiculite. I like it better becuase it doesn't float up to the top when watered like vermiculite does. I use a mix of roughly 70% pumice, 15% peat moss, 15% coconut coir. I also tried rooting cuttings100% pumice, and surprisingly that works well too.
I have to say, using 70% vermiculite and the rest potting mix and pine bark, there is no floating. It is beautiful. Will it work. That remains to be seen. All I know is that coir, peat and potting mix alone doesn’t work for me 😂
@@TheMillennialGardener Yea, I think your mix looks good. It actually looks almost identical to mine. I was thinking of perlite that floats, not vermiculite. I haven't tried using vermiculite yet. I will try that next time and compare to pumice. I also have better luck not scoring the side of the fig cutting, and not using any rooting hormone.
@@mgfons - pumice is great not only for that, but as an ingredient in a soil mix for fruit trees planting holes.
I’ve used both and find that the Pearlite usually floats. It’s bright white, puffy, and super light. Vermiculite is much heavier and does not normally float. Vermiculite does come in different grinds. If yours is floating, try a courser grind. Ag supply companies sell different grinds, not sure what grind size is in Vigro brand.
I put them into a cup of soil,keep them moist and they grow. No fancy mixes, nothing. Works every time
Ok. I am rooting some I-258 cuttings. Put in rooting medium as shown above on 25 Feb except I used a clear plastic cup. I did wrap them in parafilm. They are on the top of a bookshelf so they get very minimal light. No roots showing yet but I am getting buds on one of four cuttings popping through the parafilm. What do I do - pinch them off, leave them alone, put in a closet so it gets no light at all? Recommendations are welcome. Thanks for such a GREAT site.
I always use powder hormone it works great, and I also just used 50/50 peat moss or coconut coir and sand, every singly cutting out of my 8 successfully rooted.
Excellent detailed video. Lots of questions answered and some new ideas for rooting cuttings. Thank you.
You're welcome! I'm glad it was helpful. Thank you for watching.
Thanks for your videos! Do you have any updates on this method? I will be rooting fig cuttings for the first time in a few days and want to use this method!
Man that is a sharp looking Camaro!!!
Thank you! It's almost 10 years old 😀
Is there a progress video?
Thank you for posting these great videos. As a newbie you have been a help and an inspiration. Merry Christmas to you and your family.
I'm so happy to hear that! I want nothing more than to help people grow bigger! Merry Christmas!
Thanks for the info, now I know why many of my cuttings failed,I will try your method hopefully with more success.
You're welcome! Best of luck. Fast draining and ideal temperature is key, I'm finding.
Fantastic video! Everything I need to learn to rooting figs! This is my first time to do it myself! I will follow all your process step by step in the next few days! Questions, do I need to “ water” them since they are on the heating mat, would they dehydrated? Or should I cover them with plastic sheeting ( punched holes)?
Hi, would you reply, please! Thanks!
So I followed your way in my cutting this year and so far so good. 28 days in and I have lots of growth but not yet 100% but may have some late bloomers. When do you start fertilizing?
I start fertilizing once the fig cuttings have 2-3 real leaves on them. I have a guide on how to do so here: th-cam.com/video/ghl5XkLU4d0/w-d-xo.html
Great video. New to propagating fig cuttings. I ordered cuttings from figbid Nov 23 and wonder how soon after receiving them should I pot them? Thanks.
have you tried sand for a rooting medium, it works very well in my rooting beds, drains well, retains moisture, easy to transplant cuttings to pots and free down by the creek near my home
Yes. It was too heavy and dense and did not work at all for me, personally.
@@TheMillennialGardener must be that NC sand wink
When and how do you water them again? I literally was hoping you'd make this video, thank you my brother!!
Glad I could be timely. I am watering my figs with a spray bottle, actually. I'm monitoring the tops every few days and making sure they don't dry out too much. The good thing about vermiculite is it's very rot resistant.
It appears that you have trellis the trees that are behind you. I was just curious if you are training them and to grow the branches lateral. This is the technique that we have used in training, cherry trees.
I didn't see anywhere about watering after setting the cuttings in the soil mix - how moist to keep them? Top water? Thanks!
nice fig row. How far are those trees sitting from the fence?
A very helpful and timely video !! Do you have a video that addresses what type of soil/medium you use once you up-pot your cuttings. If not, could you provide a quick breakdown of what you like to use? Thanks !
I go from these 4"x9" containers directly into large containers. You can see how I make my mix here: th-cam.com/video/6DEjV3zaOBU/w-d-xo.html
When you say they take 3-6 wks to root, does that mean they're ready to plant out in the ground at 6 wks? Or would you leave them in their starter pots until the roots develop further and a root ball is more likely to hold together? Great video, thanks!
No. It takes 3-6 weeks on average for the cuttings to send the first roots. After that, it will take about another 2 months for the cuttings to be ready for transplant. All said and done, taking a fig cutting from a dormant cutting to a transplant takes anywhere from 3-5 months depending on how fast the fig decides to grow, how much sun and warmth it gets, the size of your container, etc. Usually, my cuttings started in Dec/Jan are ready for transplant in March/April. You definitely don't want to rush them, because if the root ball falls apart during transplant, they have a high death rate.
Is there a link to a follow up video of yours about these specific cuttings? Can't seem to find it.
So I'm going to take cuttings from my Chicago hardy I'm container growing in zone 5B. Could I keep the cuttings dormant over winter and try rooting them a little closer to spring?
We have just a common fig from our local big box store, it does produce spring figs, but this will be our second season in the ground. Looking forward to our spring crop this year with tons of this year's growth.
Best of luck! They can grow out of control quickly.
@@TheMillennialGardener I've noticed... Lol we want to keep our figs pruned tight and hope for a good dense crop. At least we'll try and see if it works!
Dale, I’ve been scrolling through your videos looking for an update. How often do you water after you chose this method for rooting cuttings?
Thanks my man. This is exactly what I needed. I got instructions with my cuttings and they said to lay the cuttings horizontally and cover with soil on the top and bottom while in a plastic bag.I feel like that would make it rot, right?
Hoi Millennial, thanks for the presentation. I now know more how to successfully grow fig three from cutting; waiting for your the Italian-258 cutting till then cheers and thanks.
Thank you! The cuttings will be available shortly, within the next 2-3 weeks. Keep an eye out for the official video, which will be coming in the first half of January!
@@TheMillennialGardener To tell you the truth I can't wait. I will have three different figs fruit, if there is any question!? I'll leave you a message thank you, so much.
Rooting I 258 today. I have 3 acers in south Florida zone 10. Should I plant my fig in the ground or grow them in pots?
In trying the shoebox method I have gotta lots of nice green sprouts but no roots, the shoots have started touching the top of the box, advice?
I was pruning my fig tree that has been in the ground since September and I pruned a branch/cutting that already had roots connected to it. What would you do with that cutting? It's about 8 inches long, has no leaves and I currently have the cutting sitting in a container with peat / soil mix in my cool garage. Should I leave it in the shade / cold until spring and then move it outside or put it outside already? Plant it in the ground? Thanks! I'm a fellow Wilmingtonian.
Any follow-up videos? How do you cover the dome?
As an alternative, instead of adding boiling water, could you bake the potting soil and the pine bark mulch in the oven like you did in previous years? Is vermiculite better than perlite when rooting fig cuttings?
Yes, you can bake it. It starts getting tough when you have a lot of potting mix, though, and boiling water becomes easier to sanitize large batches of mix. I wouldn't use vermiculite to root cuttings again. It holds too much moisture. Vermiculite is made to hold moisture. Perlite is made to add drainage. They aren't interchangeable, and they have very different effects on mixes. Vermiculite is for making seed-starting mix. Perlite is for making container mix and improving drainage.
Last year, I used a 50% vermiculite and 50% perlite mix. While 100% of my Hardy Chicago cuttings rooted well, they did not transplant well and I lost most of my plants. This year, I have added some potting mix with the vermiculite and perlite (approx 1/3 of each). I am hopeful this combo will work well.
This is my concern with vermiculite. I'm afraid the root balls won't hold together as well. The key to up-potting figs is to let the roots harden off. Up-potting figs when the roots are still white can lead to a high degree of failure. Once the roots get wiry and orange, they are more resilient. The good news is, in these 4"x9" tree pots, you can let the cuttings grow to be in a pretty advanced state before up-potting. Up-potting too soon is a real problem with rooted fig cuttings.
Before I saw this video I watched an earlier one where you had the pine mulch top/bottom and didn't use Vermiculite. I made a bunch of cuttings on Dec 31st and used my Cloning gel. Should I repot these or just let them be? I have them on a heating matt and I just checked the temperature and it came out at 77F. I did heat the mulch in the oven at 300 for an hour, but my soil in the cups is a mix of Perlite and potting soil. Thanks and I really enjoy all of the content. Dave
There is no reason to re-pot. I have never used vermiculite before for rooting figs, so this is an experiment. I like trying new things and seeing how they perform. This could be great, or it could be a disaster. I'm not sure what to expect. If your method works for you, don't change it. 77F is the ideal temp, I think.
Can you update us on how your mix is working and how everything is working please
We appreciate the metric conversations.
That and the conversions too
Is there anything wrong with using a root stimulator? I have had good success rooting cuttings from mint plants (that were in a soup I ordered!) So why not with a tree cutting?
So basically you can use a 5-1-1 potting mix? Kinda seems like it would work maybe a bit more vermiculite.
That is great information. Thank you😊👍
You are welcome! Thanks so much for watching.
Some Chinese people say 100% vermiculite is fine for fig cuttings propagation, too. I am trying too. but I've added some boost. I've used rooting solution to immerse my cuttings before propagation. IBA and NAA don't have to be in powder form or gel form.
I've heard of folks having a lot of success rooting in 100% vermiculite, and I had great success starting fig seeds in pure vermiculite. I figure it's worth a shot.
Would coconut coir work as rooting material?
I'm waiting some cuttings from Pons himself (not in the US) nice to know all of this. I'm surely doing backup grafts anyway, because no matter how good you do it, some of them won't make it, that's what I've learned in 3 years of fig rooting. Have you tried rooting in water?
No way. How did you manage to get cuttings from pons? I'm in Europe
You can find him on FB, I've sent him a mail to the address on his website but he never saw it. But he enters FB once in a while and check his messages
That's awesome. I know he lives on Mallorca, which is probably one of the best fig growing climates on Earth. Are you in Spain, or are you in the EU?
Set my cuttings on top of fridge stays around 74 put lid on bin, a few cuttings got moldy, some doing fine. Never covered bin before, had much better success
If they are getting moldy, it is likely too much moisture in the mix. I have these issues when I use a mix heavy in coir or peat moss. I'm hoping the vermiculite solves the problem.
How often should I be watering my cuttings or trying to keep the medium moist?
if set at 77F, that model thermo will turn on when it hits 75F. it has a 2 degree buffer.
Trying to root 5 Olympian and one tiger fig. The big Olympian has a tiny green bud that just showed up. I did use clonex so hopefully 🙏 it grows
Is the tiger Panache? That is a good performer out west.
@@TheMillennialGardener yes it’s a Tiger panache
hi, thanks for all your info.. Our peppers are amazing following your bone meal tip, fertilizing schedule and topping them. Anyway, ordered some fig cuttings and watched this video several times.....do the cuttings get any water while waiting for them to root?
Followed your tips for the pencil lead size tiny fig plants ordered in the spring and some are over 5 foot tall, some have figlets, 8A so will not ripen this late. Never started cuttings and it seems like they should be watered. Warming pad arrived 2 days after planting the fresh Violette de Bordeaux cuttings, using the procedure you described. Back to the point, do the cuttings need water? ty
Does up-potting when the figs have gone dormant help with survival? I know it would take longer, but what about waiting until the following winter before disturbing the plant?
How do those cuttings react to artificial light? I don't want to put them in a dark place but don't know about home lighting either. Much thanks. I have a TX Strawberry fig that I want to replant back in it's container this winter & want more of them. Not sure if I should root prune first, then trim branches, or other way around. I also wonder if screened cypress bark will be okay instead of pine. Not sure I want to take the chance of losing cuttings, but not going to take as many cuttings as you & have no use for pine otherwise. Got to get your Japanese saw!
what do you do with all of them when done? are you selling them?
I see black zadar, one of my absolute favorites.
It has a couple roots on it, but they're very small and weak. I'm not sure if it'll take. I guess we'll see.
If leaf buds do start to form. Is it a good idea to cut them back or cut them off?
Without the clear plastic cups, will you just wait for roots to come out the bottom?
Thanks for this new info.
Actually, yes, that is generally my indicator that they're ready for transplant. With these 4"x9" tree plots, you have to up-pot when you're confident the tree is ready. It's usually pretty obvious, because either the cuttings have so many leaves on it it's clear they have a healthy root system, or the roots start coming out of the bottom drain holes.
@@TheMillennialGardener just dovetailing off that question, when will you start watering if you can't see the roots? I'm assuming because they're in the dark they'll have little top growth to indicate. Do you have a ballpark time frame?
Great video. I have tried this method and also perlite and vermiculite together . The last 2 years I have used a mix of co co coir, perlite, and potting soil with a small sprinkle of mosquito bits mixed in for my medium. It has worked out great for me here in Boston. I also have had success with rooting with hormone and without. I also plant with parafilm and without. When without I find I have to mist my cuttings every other day. I found that scoring the bottom of the cutting never made a difference with rotting. It WAS and STILL IS "TOO MUCH WATER". I found that in my own and fellow gardeners plantings. Hope this helps someone. Remember folks, Back Off the water!! Have a great coming season to all.
Hi Tony - you in Boston? Me too. I would love to know more about your garden. Which varieties do you grow? Greenhouse?
How much coir do you put in as a percentage of the ratio? For me, the coir is extremely problematic. It dries out so quickly up top, but it stays sopping wet on the bottom.
@@TheMillennialGardener I am using 1/3 of each and maybe a pinch more perlite. I pre soak medium to the squeeze method. I don`t worry about the top of the container. When I do water, I use a food baster and squirt the sides of the container where the roots are showing and NOT in the middle of the plant, Pad is set at 75F and the ambient room temp is about 60F. I put a cover on top of my cuttings that have no parafilm slightly cracked open. 3/4 weeks to root and then light with pad still on. When potting up, I pre wet all cuttings about 6/12 hours before planting in new container. The cuttings hold together better when transplanting and I use the same type of medium and there is no or very little shock. Try it my name sake, experiment!! You are providing a great service to thousands of people! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
@@TheMillennialGardener Forgot to mention that when I had sopping wet bottoms I found that it was from OVER WATERING ( was my weakness) or not enough perlite. I also put drainage holes op 1" up from the bottom of container.
Overall - the ideal setup. I use almost identical one.
I've found that to be the case. Now, the key is maintaining proper moisture. That's always the biggest challenge.
Boiling water, smart. Enjoyed the video. BTW, is that a wireless microphone? What brand? Good audio.
Thank you. It is actually a wired microphone. I've experimented with a couple different wireless brands, but I never really liked the audio. The wired mic's are annoying, but they work so much better.
You didn’t mention how long you leave the cuttings soaking in the peroxide solution. ?
30 mins is fine.
The issue I have is mostly of hygienics. I have tried the peroxide/water soak, clorox/water soak, clorox/water and mild brushing . No matter what I try I seem to develop a white mold that once it starts, you might as well throw it out. Wrapping the tops with wax grafting tape seems to help but not entirely. I have tried the clonex gel, and a powder form both with mixed results. I do think the gel maybe holds too much moisture and starts the rot process sooner. It is a fine line between too dry and too wet. Basically, these things need about as much moisture to root as your breath. But as soon as the buds break, then they can dry out so quickly. A lot of folks say as soon as the buds break to make sure they get plenty of light. I seem to loose a lot of cuttings at any stage that is a change in conditions. That could be temperature, humidity, or light and of course at up-potting. I have not tried your methods. Most of my rooting successes have been with large 32oz, clear plastic drink cups with lids with the oil dry clay product as the medium. I use a soldering iron to melt the centers of the lids out to slightly bigger than the cutting. I then melt from the center to the edge of the top so it can be easily removed later. This helps keep the moisture levels consistent and keep the fungus gnats out. Of course on a temp controlled heat mat and under a LED grow light once buds break. I was able to get of few of those same tree pots and they are great!. I had two smiths root successfully in a very light pine bark mix. They took their sweet time rooting though. The amount of medium I think can play a big part on moisture control. Not enough and they dry out too easily, too much and it retains too much moisture, do not enough air flow and they rot. I have tried all the methods of scoring and no scoring, thru the node, below the nodes at the ends and with varying results. And for anyone just getting started with any type cuttings, purchase some of those yellow sticky traps for the fungus gnats that you are going to have to battle and good luck with that , you are going to need it! I tried the mosquito bits and they did not seem to work for me. But the challenge is what makes it fun!
I am having some of the fuzz form on the top of the vermiculite, so I feel your pain. That is very annoying, and it is a bad sign. I have a feeling that at the end of the day, I will just want to go back to the pine bark mix. That seems totally resistant to the white fuzz. I don't think the moisture is necessarily the issue, as Mike Kincaid *SOAKS* his cuttings and they all root like crazy. I think it's largely conditions-based. I'm in the process of having a sunroom constructed, and I honestly think that may help my chances. Once it's complete, I am going to try setting up a little card table in there and rooting in full sunlight. The sunlight should sterilize the soil and help keep that fuzz at bay.
@@TheMillennialGardener I tried everything I could think of. First cleaning the cuttings once they arrive. Then after the first signs I have tried darkness, full sun, alcohol, Clorox of varying strength, nothingness by stops it. It gets into the wood and will turn pinkish and then the cutting dehydrates. None of them have rooted once that happens. I had several cuttings from one person and I only tried two cuttings at a time, but all of them were infected with the spores evidently as they all died from it. Not what you want to hear I know.
I looked in your description and store but could not find the large mat you recommend. Would you be so kind as to give me details so I can order one? Thank you.
I use cinnamon powder as rooting “hormone”. It’s worked well.
Here is why cinnamon may help you !
"One of the most well-established properties of cinnamon extracts, essential oils and their components is the antibacterial activity against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria responsible for human infectious diseases and degradation of food or cosmetics."
There is no "hormone" in cinnamon. It does have anti fungal properties which does help.
Rooting hormone contains IBA, IBB (Indole-butyric acid) or NAA, which cinnamon does not have
Is this something I could do in my attic with zero light, or do they need some light to root? Thanks for all the great info!
I have never rooted figs in total darkness. I always root them in the corner of a room away from any direct light. Fig cuttings can be rooted in total darkness, but you need to keep an eye on them because if the buds decide to break in total darkness, the cuttings will grow sickly growth. Keeping them out of light will slow bud break, but it's inevitable, especially if the conditions are too warm.
Great info as always. Also, your video on blueberries was one of the best I've seen on the internet. Happy holidays!
Thank you. I’m so happy to hear that. Thanks for watching and Happy Holidays!
The mix of pine bark mini nuggets, a bit of soil and vermiculite - that sounds great! I have a feeling that this mix would also work great for rutting black currants. What do you think?
I do not have any experience with the currants. However, I find a heavily-vermiculite mixture to be excellent for seed germination. If it works for rooting figs and germinating seeds, I would anticipate it being good for many other applications. It's worth a shot.
@@TheMillennialGardener - right! Vermiculite is great seed starting medium.
Speaking about currants: they need moist medium for rooting and they are not particularly prone to root. And they loves cold more than heat, so for currants I wouldn't use any heat.
Great video! Got my tree pots (4” x 9”) and crate, growing medium, heat mats and thermostat regulator, and fig cuttings too! Just need to get my hands on that plastic tote you have. What size is it and where’s you get it? Thanks and great video! Keep it up!
Any store. Home depot, Lowes, ace hardware, target, Wal-Mart, big lots, dollar tree, and some groceries all carry clear plastic totes.
@@stefandomagalski3722 yes, I’ve seen plastic totes in many stores. I’m looking for that particular tote that has the width and depth to accept the crate that holds the 16 tree pots that are 4” x 9”. Notice how it’s placed directly on the heat mat? The thickness of the plastic matters as well. Plus, I don’t want to take a tape measurer to a store and look like a fool measuring various tubs. That’s why I’m looking for the specifics, but thanks for trying to help!
Do you think that I can use sparkling water bottles they are about 3” to 4” w x 7”to 9” h do u think it will be a problem? Because I got some of your fig cuttings and I can’t fin those high trays
You can't use any bottle with a "neck," or where the top portion is narrower than the bottom, because you won't be able to pull the root ball out. It's okay if the top if wider than the bottom, like if you were to use a 24 ounce cup or something. You can go to Walmart and just buy some large plastic Solo cups and it works fine. Just make sure you drill holes in the bottom for drainage.
Thank you
Sorry for bother but I have another question I can’t find any pine bark mini nuggets any where they say is to early any other thing that I can use or where I can get the nuggets thank you in advance
And I’ll try online but the charge 41 dollars for two cubic ft
About a year ago I pruned my overgrown Brown Turkey fig tree, cut seven approximately 2' sections, and put the cut ends into a jar of water. I checked the water level once in a while and replenished as needed. All seven cuttings sprouted roots so I put them into potting soil in the spring. Every one of them took hold and even produced fruit. I've given all but one of them away.
Was the jar inside your house? During what month and what area did you take cuttings?
I've had good luck rooting green cuttings by wrapping them in damp paper towels and sticking them in a Ziploc bag in a warm place. I've never had any luck rooting hardwood cuttings in jars of water. I know it can be done, but it takes awhile, and you have to change the water constantly or it will become murky quickly. I prefer direct-rooting in a mix, because even if they root, cuttings are often lost in the up-potting process. I had great luck rooting in a shoebox, but you'll take some losses up-potting: th-cam.com/video/7K6AwTSaBOA/w-d-xo.html
Saturday I removed an airlayer from a tree, it was loaded with ants so I rinsed the dirt and noticed that the areas I scored with my knife didn't have any roots. Probably better to not score but I think we need to look harder at the rooting hormone issue and see if it helps or actually hinders or just nuetral.
What I've found is that figs root very readily, so at best, rooting hormone is an added expense that isn't technically necessary. I can say anecdotally that gel-based rooting hormone doesn't work well for rooting figs in a typical potting medium. The powdered rooting hormone, I cannot comment on. I will never let Clonex gel touch my fig cuttings again. Perhaps a powder has less downsides.
Very nice! Arizona 9B is still waiting for our dormancy! We're getting close now that we had that cold storm that swept across the country. As soon as our figs lose their leaves I'll definitely try this technique out. This will be our first attempt to cloning figs! Your video makes total sense. Thanks for posting this video brother 😎
I check the heat map every morning and saw Phoenix was at 31 and Vegas was at 29 the other day. Meanwhile, it is 78 here 😂 Crazy how that happens. I just cut a few figs for a friend and I have a little sap flow left. We have a cold wave coming through Sunday that hopefully finishes them off.
@@TheMillennialGardener it was reported to be one of the largest temperature contrasts ever recorded for areas of the upper Midwest and Northeast. True Arizonans love the weather changes. We have also been desperate for any precipitation in the desert. This season we are crossing our fingers for our "normal" 300 chill hours for the greater Phoenix area. 🤞
Thanks.
You’re welcome!
Can’t find the heating mat and thermostat Amazon link , please provide! Thanks!
It’s linked in my Amazon Store in the video description. Expand the video description, click on the Amazon link and it’s under Seed Starting Supplies.
it takes only one week for fig cuttings to root, when the weather in my country is hot. but some varieties are indeed slower.
I have never seen a fig cutting root in a week, and I've rooted 100-200 over the years. I think the fastest I've ever seen them root is maybe 2 or 2 and a half weeks. Most take 3-5 weeks for me, but I do this in the winter when it's pretty cool. We're getting down to 2C tonight, and it's dark out by 5PM, so things really slow down.
How can one determine from a fig cutting purchase, which end is up and which end is down. My apologies but i am brand new to this!
Not sure if I missed it, but no lid or tent??? Last year, I tried proprogating about 12-15 cutting I took off a variety of my fig trees. I basically had the same set-up as you and covered them....even bought a Govee WiFi Thermometer Hygrometer to closely monitor moisture. My success rate was pretty awesome until I attempted to slowly get them acclimated to room temp by removing the lid a little bit of a time. Wound up losing about 2/3's of them....frustrating to say the least. So this year, I'd rather not put a lid on them.....Have you gone no lid/tent before with good success???
I have a large, clear lid that I set on top of the container and cock about 30 degrees off to the side. I can't leave the lid on 100%, because it stays too humid and the cuttings get fuzzy mold. If I leave the lid off, the mix dries out too quickly and requires constant re-watering. Putting the lid on somewhat off to the side still lets some fresh air in, which prevents rapid evaporation, but doesn't create a rot-prone humidity chamber.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thanks for the quick reply! At what point to you pull them out altogether OR do you begin to decrease the amount of lid until completely off?
Great videos….I recently up potted 10 fig cuttings from clear cups…to a plastic Folgers 1lb container all under a grow light all are doing well..I have 2 that are wilting,,,not sure shock,under water,overwater…any advise. ……
How long to continue heat mat,,,,I also have some new cuttings in clear cups, can I put them with my established cuttings under light or not yet…..thankyou much
Wilting can be caused by the medium drying out too much, their roots are suffocating/cutting is rotting from too much moisture, or fungus gnat larvae are eating the roots. There may be other reasons, but those are common causes. Sometimes, a fig will root, then go into decline and rot away. Hopefully, that isn't the case. Fig cuttings don't get "leggy" like seedlings if they get enough sun, so you don't have to discontinue the heat mat until there is good root development,
Interested to know why you chose vermiculite over perlite in your mix.
Perlite is used to provide aeration to the mix, as well as increased drainage. Vermiculite is to promote even moisture. You probably won't have much luck rooting cuttings in perlite. Vermiculite, on the other hand, is an fantastic medium for rooting. The problem with vermiculite is...will it hold together during the transplanting process? That remains to be seen.
@@TheMillennialGardener thanks for explaining this.
Super helpful video! How long do the cuttings need to be soaked in the hydrogen peroxide/water mix? Thank you!
I left them in for probably 30 minutes. I don't know if that's too long or not long enough, but it's worked for me.
@@TheMillennialGardener Great, thanks!
Which drug gives you such a big smile ? I know none !
So would you recommend wrapping top in parafilm any more?
I still would. Looking back, I should have done it. I generally have better results when I do.
Rooting in vermiculite. Why don't you take the mesh bags you sell fill with vermiculite then place in the tree containers. The bag will hold the vermiculite and allow for easy transplant. You could also additionally put some potting mix surrounding the vermiculite outside the bag to act as a nutrient stimulator as roots grow. Once you have roots and are ready to transplant make some small slices in the bag and you're off. Just a thought and thank you for the programs. I refer many to your Chanel.
Turning something like an 8"x10" organza bag into a rooting pouch is an interesting idea. You have my mind going with this one. I'm not sure how well it would work, but it would certainly be interesting to try. I may have to try something like that...
Very nice video! ...but I have three questions. Where is the parafilm, when others on TH-cam insist that it must be used? You have recommended this step in the past. And, do you think your potting mix may be too acidic since a significant percentage is pine bark nuggets, and it appears that fig trees flourish in limestone based soils? Some people also recommend adding oyster shells to the soil, which I believe would make the soil more alkaline as well. Lastly, until we are ready to root the cuttings that we acquired, exactly what is the best way you recommend to store the cuttings? Presumably in the frig, but how should they be prepared and wrapped to prevent fungus or mold from ruining them? I will be rooting Ronde de bordeaux, I-258, Smith, and Negra de Agde cuttings...hopefully:)!
Parafilm is not necessary for thick cuttings. People use Parafilm on thin cuttings, because there is a risk the cuttings will dry out before they root. I find that when I use Parafilm, it's pretty common for mold to form underneath. The risk is worth it for cuttings thinner than a pencil, but if your cuttings are thick hardwood, there may be more risk to using Parafilm. That's your call.
Regarding acidity, no. Figs prefer mildly acidic soil between 6-7 pH. Figs enjoy garden lime because of the calcium content. I do not use garden lime. I use bone meal, because it contains both phosphorous and calcium. Bone meal outperforms garden lime.
People use oyster shells because of the calcium content. Crustacean shells also contain a compound called chitin, which inhibits root knot nematodes from growing, so that's another added benefit. It isn't about the pH.
I store my fig cuttings by sticking them in a 1 gallon Ziploc bag, squeezing the air out, rolling it up, then sticking it in the vegetable crisper. That's all I do. There may be a better way, but that's all I've ever done. In my opinion, it's best to root fig cuttings ASAP while they're freshest, so if you can start immediately, that's better.
@@TheMillennialGardener Very interesting! Thank you for the in depth reply!! This will help me as I move forward with my cuttings.