Thank you so much for this video, it is exactly what I needed. I needed to replace my rear toe arm and all the alignment bolts in the rear recently. 11 Canadian winters (we salt our roads where I live in Canada) and those bolts were so rusty and seized that I broke the head off of one. It was much easier to replace the entire arm than try to salvage what was left of it. The arm is 11 years old too so I don’t see why I shouldn’t replace it as well as the opposite side. I am sure my alignment guys will appreciate me replacing ALL of the alignment bolts/washers/nuts while I was at it. Also replaced the front inner and outer tie rod ends, again due to RUST. Needless to say, I will be anti-seizing all of these bolts and their threads ahead of time this time. And will reapply every 1-2 years or whenever I get an alignment. It isn’t fun spending $120 CAD for just 4 alignment bolts/washers/nuts, and the two other bolts holding the toe arm into the knuckle. Not to mention the disassembly of all this seized stuff, and the hassle of having to go back to get an alignment again. I have learned my lesson.
my 06 E90 330i has 236k also! just finished the M3 upgrade up front and starting the rear today. Thanks FCP I've owned over 60 vehicles and this is my 1st ever BMW and I couldn't do it without you. Of course I have about $9k into a $3k car but I've learned a ton and have fallen in love with BMW's. I think I'm going to keep this car until it dies but pick up a 335. Going from a 800 hp cadillac to a 250 hp 330i is a struggle! LOL
@@kewkew2 so I didn't have a lot to compare since my original stuff was all worn out but after installing everything it was definitely tighter and road better. The quality of the upgraded arms is a lot nice then the stock stuff so I would spend the extra few bucks and do the upgrade.
I effed up bolting one of the arms to the wheel carrier and partially stripped out the hole. I would recommend when connecting any of the arms to connect the end to the wheel carrier first and then the other end. It might be difficult to align the arms to get the bolts to go through but you won't strip any of the bolt holes on the wheel carrier, which believe me SUCKS!!
I thought the same, the arm is metal, unless its bent it works, but the bushings is probably worn and would need a change.. Dont see the point of changing the metal part.
@@canineunittv1647 I didn’t have too much trouble with the knuckle one. The inner one always wanted to go in at an angle and I had to use some grade 8 bolts and washers.
Never mind New England, old England 🏴is just as bad 😂 Thanks for the tutorial. Looks pretty straightforward, apart from the inevitable seized nuts and bolts! Surprised more shops don’t sell new bolts with these arms. Last thing you want is a bolt snapping off in the hub!
Well done Mike 1 - Baby 2 - HeeHee's Replacing the trailing arm bushings requires a special kit. Huge pain since the bushings are on the subframe and knuckle, not the arms. FCP has a nice video on an E9X M3 using replacement billet trailing arms. Bushings are available with spherical bearings for that kit. Hoping for the same video on an E9X M3, since the control arms are cast aluminum, instead of stamped steel.
Are there any weird noises associated with this problem? Such as driving at low speed and turning? Something is coming from the rear right end and is an embarrassing noise
Great video guys. Just one thing you guys didn’t actually cover the lower control arm. Helping a friend with his e90 replaced the toe arms but the inner control arm bushings have a TON of play. Looks to me like they are pressed bushings inside the subframe
Those will require a special tool to remove the subframe end bushings, as well as the bushings in the knuckles. Perhaps something we can queue up for the future! You are a good friend😎
Need a E9X and F3X/F8X AGM Battery mega video. BMW keeps changing the part nos...and battery specs (AH). Aftermarket and Lithium Battery options would be valuable. The battery registration process is getting crazy, if the installed battery isn't in the list of options when performing the coding/registration. New F8X M3/M4s have Lithium Batteries that cost almost $2k.
Sincerely appreciate the great diy video. Do you have anything for measuring ride height for car with factory suspension? I made a method of my own which might be legit. Otherwise this is a great at home diy repair. I used RennStands as I do not have a lift. My 18mm wrenches were a lil shorter than desired for this but this is absolutely at home DIY stuff.
Hi guys from FCP euro team, nice video, but one thing: what about lower control arm bushings. It is OK to replace arm itself, but you need to press new bushings as well right?
Yeah,... I see at 11:30 that he doesn't replace the lower bushings. Edit: I haven't studied the geometry yet, but if those lower trailing-arm bushings carry only half the load of other bushings, then they might last a lot longer.
Awesome tutorial. Just installed your Aluminum coolant flange on my N52. thx for that. But I was waiting for the mentioning, which parts can be swapped to M3 parts, to improve stability and directness. It would be really nice to have a list for the front and rear, wich parts ar interchangeable for better stability, steeringresponse, etc. Is anything like that out there?
Hi Ralph, you can measure the distance between the center of the hub and the fender line before jacking up the vehicle to perform the DIY. Using a floor jack, you can raise the whole assembly and measure once more until you've reached the appropriate height before tightening down the hardware on the arms.
I guess it's when it's just starting to lift off the axle stand or lift which means the weight of the car is now being taken by the corner you are working on
The bushing that is on the hub end @6:49 Is it worth replacing that with a ball joint? I know the M3s also have a bushing and that the mounting face arent flat, but if you install a ball joint with the same mounting surface is there any disadvantage with a ball joint? Seems strange to have bushing there for an M3, I get it on the normal e9x.
I’m watching this vid as guide not trying to knock u guy at fcp but I think u install tht traction arm in rear (upper) wrong left on right and right on left cause I bought same arm for my right rear off fcp site and mind doesn’t sit in same position like yours unless u guy got it listed wrong on the site
Hope you can answer my question ( sorry my bad language ) But if i mount coilovers on my E90... do i have to loosen the bolts on the arms en retight them on lower ride hight ? or is that not nessesery ? Hope you understand my question :) nice video btw ! :)
when mounting the rear coilovers on e90 you're not touching any of the bolts adjusted in the video. Only thing you're touching in the wheel well is dropping the spring bucket (camber) and removing the strut from the mount.
swapped out lower control arms and now my steering doesn't return to center! reused the upper control arm (thrust) but changed the bushing to a sealed gas monoball, and upgraded to the m-lower control arm (wishbone). thrust arm ball joint seemed stiff-ish, but no where near as stiff as the new m-wishbone's ball joint. any ideas on what I did wrong? tie rods were not removed, but obviously both control arms were. renewing the bolts on the wishbones did require some force to get past the dust cover on the power steering. wonder if that altered anything? my limited understanding on alignment tells me that caster is off as the wheel isn't returning to center (or isn't following the strut axis). any ideas or run-ins with this happening? thx
Please can someone help me out. On my 2011 E90 (318i Euro spec) the eccentric bolt for the toe arm looks different. One end has an E torx head unlike the ‘standard’ bolt head shown here (the one held with a wrench at 13:50). Did some come with a different style ? Are they interchangeable? Thanks!
During the upper arm reinstall you said before torqueing to reset hub to ride height. Hoe do you know if it's ride height? Any indicator on the car? Just eyeballing it?
On the lift, getting the weight of the body to the point where it is just about to come off the pad is how we set it. If you are trying to get an exact measurement, you can measure the center of the hub to the fender before you start the DIY, with the vehicle on the ground.
Thanks so much for this how to video. I changed 2 lower arms today and have never been under a car.
Just did this today! Had to use some heat just like in this video. Worked out great, thanks for the great instructions!
Thank you so much for this video, it is exactly what I needed. I needed to replace my rear toe arm and all the alignment bolts in the rear recently. 11 Canadian winters (we salt our roads where I live in Canada) and those bolts were so rusty and seized that I broke the head off of one. It was much easier to replace the entire arm than try to salvage what was left of it. The arm is 11 years old too so I don’t see why I shouldn’t replace it as well as the opposite side.
I am sure my alignment guys will appreciate me replacing ALL of the alignment bolts/washers/nuts while I was at it. Also replaced the front inner and outer tie rod ends, again due to RUST. Needless to say, I will be anti-seizing all of these bolts and their threads ahead of time this time. And will reapply every 1-2 years or whenever I get an alignment. It isn’t fun spending $120 CAD for just 4 alignment bolts/washers/nuts, and the two other bolts holding the toe arm into the knuckle. Not to mention the disassembly of all this seized stuff, and the hassle of having to go back to get an alignment again. I have learned my lesson.
my 06 E90 330i has 236k also! just finished the M3 upgrade up front and starting the rear today. Thanks FCP I've owned over 60 vehicles and this is my 1st ever BMW and I couldn't do it without you. Of course I have about $9k into a $3k car but I've learned a ton and have fallen in love with BMW's. I think I'm going to keep this car until it dies but pick up a 335. Going from a 800 hp cadillac to a 250 hp 330i is a struggle! LOL
How do you like the M3 upgrade? What have you noticed. I'm on the fence about which kit to get, stock or M#. I have a 328i, mostly commuter car
@@kewkew2 so I didn't have a lot to compare since my original stuff was all worn out but after installing everything it was definitely tighter and road better. The quality of the upgraded arms is a lot nice then the stock stuff so I would spend the extra few bucks and do the upgrade.
I effed up bolting one of the arms to the wheel carrier and partially stripped out the hole. I would recommend when connecting any of the arms to connect the end to the wheel carrier first and then the other end. It might be difficult to align the arms to get the bolts to go through but you won't strip any of the bolt holes on the wheel carrier, which believe me SUCKS!!
Sorry to hear that happened, thank you for sharing and providing some insight!
In the case of the trailing arm. Why not supply the trailing arm bushings instead of the arm itself. 🤔
because they don’t make bushing only replacements. technically you could do it yourself
I thought the same, the arm is metal, unless its bent it works, but the bushings is probably worn and would need a change.. Dont see the point of changing the metal part.
Speaking from experience, it is a pain in the butt to replace the inner trailing arm bushing
@@kurtm54the knuckle one too, both RTAB are insane pains in the butt
@@canineunittv1647 I didn’t have too much trouble with the knuckle one. The inner one always wanted to go in at an angle and I had to use some grade 8 bolts and washers.
Never mind New England, old England 🏴is just as bad 😂
Thanks for the tutorial. Looks pretty straightforward, apart from the inevitable seized nuts and bolts!
Surprised more shops don’t sell new bolts with these arms. Last thing you want is a bolt snapping off in the hub!
Well done Mike 1 - Baby 2 - HeeHee's Replacing the trailing arm bushings requires a special kit. Huge pain since the bushings are on the subframe and knuckle, not the arms. FCP has a nice video on an E9X M3 using replacement billet trailing arms. Bushings are available with spherical bearings for that kit. Hoping for the same video on an E9X M3, since the control arms are cast aluminum, instead of stamped steel.
Are there any weird noises associated with this problem? Such as driving at low speed and turning? Something is coming from the rear right end and is an embarrassing noise
Great video guys. Just one thing you guys didn’t actually cover the lower control arm. Helping a friend with his e90 replaced the toe arms but the inner control arm bushings have a TON of play. Looks to me like they are pressed bushings inside the subframe
Those will require a special tool to remove the subframe end bushings, as well as the bushings in the knuckles. Perhaps something we can queue up for the future! You are a good friend😎
@@fcpeuro
Can you please tell me what the model number / order number is for this special tool ?
Great video. Perfect for me wanting to change mine on my E90.
Thanks for a comprehensive video. You say ‘get the suspension to ride height before tightening’ How do you know what ride height is? Thanks
great video very detailed...I'm takling this job tomorrow with confidence💪💪
Need a E9X and F3X/F8X AGM Battery mega video. BMW keeps changing the part nos...and battery specs (AH). Aftermarket and Lithium Battery options would be valuable. The battery registration process is getting crazy, if the installed battery isn't in the list of options when performing the coding/registration. New F8X M3/M4s have Lithium Batteries that cost almost $2k.
I don’t understand why those bolts affect camber alignment?? Pls advise,
Sincerely appreciate the great diy video. Do you have anything for measuring ride height for car with factory suspension? I made a method of my own which might be legit. Otherwise this is a great at home diy repair. I used RennStands as I do not have a lift. My 18mm wrenches were a lil shorter than desired for this but this is absolutely at home DIY stuff.
Great video… parts aren’t available though😢
Hi guys from FCP euro team, nice video, but one thing: what about lower control arm bushings. It is OK to replace arm itself, but you need to press new bushings as well right?
Their new arms come with new bushings pressed in
Had the same question I’m pretty sure the bushing is pressed into the subframe
Yeah,... I see at 11:30 that he doesn't replace the lower bushings. Edit: I haven't studied the geometry yet, but if those lower trailing-arm bushings carry only half the load of other bushings, then they might last a lot longer.
How do you figure out ride height?
Measure rim or hub center to wheelarch before lifting the car
Awesome tutorial. Just installed your Aluminum coolant flange on my N52. thx for that. But I was waiting for the mentioning, which parts can be swapped to M3 parts, to improve stability and directness. It would be really nice to have a list for the front and rear, wich parts ar interchangeable for better stability, steeringresponse, etc. Is anything like that out there?
I think they did a video on that already.
@@john-vy1ml th-cam.com/video/oU13isXVKEc/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=FCPEuro here it is!
Awesome! Helped me a lot and i really appreciate what you guys are doing
Why have the hub bolts got the weird triangle washers ?
How do you know its the right ride height?
Hi Lone, most straightforward thing to do is measure the center of the wheel to the fender, and use that same distance when setting ride height.
I think I cross threaded the thread on the upper arm seen at 7:11
Any suggestions on a fix?
How do you know where ride night is at without dropping the car?
Hi Ralph, you can measure the distance between the center of the hub and the fender line before jacking up the vehicle to perform the DIY. Using a floor jack, you can raise the whole assembly and measure once more until you've reached the appropriate height before tightening down the hardware on the arms.
What do you mean by saying “right height”? How do i know right height without a wheel on a hub
I guess it's when it's just starting to lift off the axle stand or lift which means the weight of the car is now being taken by the corner you are working on
Is there an upgrade option for e90 335xi?
The bushing that is on the hub end @6:49 Is it worth replacing that with a ball joint? I know the M3s also have a bushing and that the mounting face arent flat, but if you install a ball joint with the same mounting surface is there any disadvantage with a ball joint? Seems strange to have bushing there for an M3, I get it on the normal e9x.
14:20 i can’t get that pinned bolt out, tried burn it and nothing happens :(
It was a pain on our end as well! Just a lot of repetition with heat and penetrating fluid will be your friend here.
Word from the wise antiseeze greese on bolts first yw :)
Perfect, thank you :)
Whats the point of changing the trailing arm but not the trailing arm bushings
They're a stamped steel that tend to twist and bend over time.
@@SDE90 wouldn't it make sense to also replace the trailing arm bushings?
@@diewlaylomei Yeah seems like the thing that really needs to be replaced there is the bushing.
@@diewlaylomei it always makes sense to refresh all components on a 15 year old vehicle but ya know 🤷♂️
I’m watching this vid as guide not trying to knock u guy at fcp but I think u install tht traction arm in rear (upper) wrong left on right and right on left cause I bought same arm for my right rear off fcp site and mind doesn’t sit in same position like yours unless u guy got it listed wrong on the site
Do you mean they installed that upper arm upside down? I installed mine differently then they did too.
Hope you can answer my question ( sorry my bad language )
But if i mount coilovers on my E90... do i have to loosen the bolts on the arms en retight them on lower ride hight ? or is that not nessesery ?
Hope you understand my question :)
nice video btw ! :)
when mounting the rear coilovers on e90 you're not touching any of the bolts adjusted in the video. Only thing you're touching in the wheel well is dropping the spring bucket (camber) and removing the strut from the mount.
So I don’t need to change the trailing arm bushings in subframe
Have you done after this procees , the geometrical back wheels angle ? Thanks if you answer !
swapped out lower control arms and now my steering doesn't return to center! reused the upper control arm (thrust) but changed the bushing to a sealed gas monoball, and upgraded to the m-lower control arm (wishbone). thrust arm ball joint seemed stiff-ish, but no where near as stiff as the new m-wishbone's ball joint. any ideas on what I did wrong? tie rods were not removed, but obviously both control arms were. renewing the bolts on the wishbones did require some force to get past the dust cover on the power steering. wonder if that altered anything? my limited understanding on alignment tells me that caster is off as the wheel isn't returning to center (or isn't following the strut axis). any ideas or run-ins with this happening? thx
What is your torque wrench brand of choice?
We use mostly all Gearwrench Mechanical TQ wrenches but some of the team love their MATCO Electric TQ Wrenches as well but cost a bit more.
This video is a little confusing i dont think he pointed out the different from lower and upper idk
How the installation is different if you want to install the M3 ones?
Next to F11 control arm.
So which is the guide rod , lol
Would this be the same deal for the TRW m3 rear set you guys sell?
Please can someone help me out. On my 2011 E90 (318i Euro spec) the eccentric bolt for the toe arm looks different. One end has an E torx head unlike the ‘standard’ bolt head shown here (the one held with a wrench at 13:50). Did some come with a different style ? Are they interchangeable? Thanks!
What kind of torque wrench are you using here? Does it have a flexible head too?
Hi Oj, we typically use GRW-85066 and GRW-85086, the 3/8th drive one has a flex head which is a nice touch, both are available on Fcpeuro.com
During the upper arm reinstall you said before torqueing to reset hub to ride height. Hoe do you know if it's ride height? Any indicator on the car? Just eyeballing it?
On the lift, getting the weight of the body to the point where it is just about to come off the pad is how we set it. If you are trying to get an exact measurement, you can measure the center of the hub to the fender before you start the DIY, with the vehicle on the ground.
What happened to the “babies?” :) Replaced by that obnoxious laugh?