Good you mentioned the scraper sharpener. Dull scrapers will make your wax scraping experience nightmarishly slow and uneven especially when you're not thinking about the scraper getting dull.
www.snowboardingforum.com/threads/diy-snowboard-ski-tune-bench-and-vice-for-around-100.271850/#post-3446653 Not as informative or in depth as I wish I had time for, but here's the post I made to make this. Hope it helps!
Are there any differences comparing roto brushes and normal old-school brushes? Because with normal brushes, the Nylon one is for first stage polishing and Horsehair last.
The main difference is efficiency. The age-old Nylon before Horsehair is what I did for years, however, after trial and error, this works better with this specific configuration. To each their own, but trust me, give it a shot.
Purl recommends nylon then HH too. I just got my set but haven’t done it yet. What do you mean in words better the opposite way? Like it’s a smoother finish or your board is faster or it lasts longer?
How hard is it to clean this stuff up overall? I'm thinking about getting a roto brush, but I don't currently have a garage so I have to do it in my living room (hardwood floor).
It's really fine stuff, so I would throw down an old sheet or some painting liner on the floor. That's what I do, then I move the bench, taco the sheet so all the shavings are on the crease, and shop vac it up.
Thanks for the killer tutorial. Have you ever used the shorter roto brushes? There are some cool kits out there and the long roto brushes are insanely expensive. I am proficient using power tools and think I might be able to get close but . . . would like to hear your thoughts. Here comes winter!! 🤞 ps Can't wait to try crayoning!!
Not going to lie, the large brushes are $$$. The shorter brushes should work fine, the only reason I prefer the longer ones is because it's an overall even finish across the board with more convenience. If you tackled the board in segments (think the boards into thirds or quarters) with even pressure you would have no issues with the smaller ones.
@@WhenManMeetsMachine Thanks for response! So are these the only 2 videos you have up right now? Do you change the waxes you use much through out the season? POW boards vs everyday drivers? I'm in the Sierra's so conditions can vary quite a bit. From full Sierra cement (not the usual) to single digit temp fluff (not the usual either) and as you mentioned waxing takes time so a strategic approach can be critical. What is you approach to seasonal variability? Am I making an excuse for a full quiver? hahahaha
@@readytoride6658 I live in Colorado, sand usually stick to an all temp because the conditions vary. I'm terms of rotating wax, I know dedicated riders who plan for cooler weekends with the cool temp wax, but I've never done it. Growing up on the west coast, I used all temp, or occasionally some warm temp for spring slush and cement.
Use the nylon first then the horse hair for polish.
+1
Good you mentioned the scraper sharpener. Dull scrapers will make your wax scraping experience nightmarishly slow and uneven especially when you're not thinking about the scraper getting dull.
Great Video! Thank you so much. Any issue with using the 300mm brushes on Skis?
Not at all brother
Id like to see how you built your snowboard table. Great video very informative
www.snowboardingforum.com/threads/diy-snowboard-ski-tune-bench-and-vice-for-around-100.271850/#post-3446653
Not as informative or in depth as I wish I had time for, but here's the post I made to make this. Hope it helps!
@@WhenManMeetsMachine thanks
Are there any differences comparing roto brushes and normal old-school brushes? Because with normal brushes, the Nylon one is for first stage polishing and Horsehair last.
The main difference is efficiency. The age-old Nylon before Horsehair is what I did for years, however, after trial and error, this works better with this specific configuration. To each their own, but trust me, give it a shot.
Great video man! Very detailed, curious about the rotor brush with horse hair first, then nylon brush last?
Swix recommends nylon:HH, but I found the opposite to work better. Not sure why, but found another company that reinforced my findings. (RaceWax)
Purl recommends nylon then HH too. I just got my set but haven’t done it yet. What do you mean in words better the opposite way? Like it’s a smoother finish or your board is faster or it lasts longer?
How hard is it to clean this stuff up overall? I'm thinking about getting a roto brush, but I don't currently have a garage so I have to do it in my living room (hardwood floor).
It's really fine stuff, so I would throw down an old sheet or some painting liner on the floor. That's what I do, then I move the bench, taco the sheet so all the shavings are on the crease, and shop vac it up.
Thanks for the killer tutorial. Have you ever used the shorter roto brushes? There are some cool kits out there and the long roto brushes are insanely expensive. I am proficient using power tools and think I might be able to get close but . . . would like to hear your thoughts. Here comes winter!! 🤞 ps Can't wait to try crayoning!!
Not going to lie, the large brushes are $$$. The shorter brushes should work fine, the only reason I prefer the longer ones is because it's an overall even finish across the board with more convenience. If you tackled the board in segments (think the boards into thirds or quarters) with even pressure you would have no issues with the smaller ones.
@@WhenManMeetsMachine Thanks for response! So are these the only 2 videos you have up right now? Do you change the waxes you use much through out the season? POW boards vs everyday drivers? I'm in the Sierra's so conditions can vary quite a bit. From full Sierra cement (not the usual) to single digit temp fluff (not the usual either) and as you mentioned waxing takes time so a strategic approach can be critical. What is you approach to seasonal variability? Am I making an excuse for a full quiver? hahahaha
@@readytoride6658 I live in Colorado, sand usually stick to an all temp because the conditions vary. I'm terms of rotating wax, I know dedicated riders who plan for cooler weekends with the cool temp wax, but I've never done it. Growing up on the west coast, I used all temp, or occasionally some warm temp for spring slush and cement.