I started waxing about 5 years ago with a sort of 'all-in-one' tuning kit. I chemical clean, then wax, then scrape, then nylon brush, then horsehair brush. I don't race or anything but I don't often get passed on the flats. The kit also came with a metal or brass brush that I could never figure out where to fit in my technique, now I know to use it first to clean the base. The kit also had ptex and a metal scraper and yeah scraping off excess ptex is the only time I use the metal scraper.
Yes, Mark! I love how you said that scraping is a vital part of the conditioning of the base. I'll be thinking of the floating micro hairs the next time I scrape. Great stuff!
I appreciate the tip of sharpening the scraper. I've bought 4 scrapers over time because they get more and more dull, I'll try that griptape trick and see if I can breathe some life into the old ones.
Nice one, Mark! Many, many snowboarders need to know much more about these 'boring, nerdy facts' that make ALL the difference when you're out there... It's all pretty 'cool' with the sideways thing, but after all it's physics in beautiful action ;-) 🙌
I’m pretty particular with my waxing schedule. I don’t like getting stuck in flat spots. I’m often laying down tracks into places along with the skiers. Sometimes I have to wait til a skier passes through first, thank you skiers! Thanks for the vid and have fun out there everyone!
Hands down the most down-to-earth waxing guide! Thanks very much for the video and hope to see more maintenance & servicing related videos in the future.
If there is anyone qualified to teach how to wax a snowboard its Mark Fawcett 👍👍 I always looked up to Mark when I was a young snowboarder back in the early 90s, A hero to us here in here in Atlantic Canada. A great video for sure, this is the best advice you will get on how to wax your board. You can't get experience like this just anywhere.
Great tips man! One thing I’ve always been told is prior to waxing loosen the binding screws off so you don’t get dimples on the base where the thread inserts sit. I’m interested in your thoughts on that!
I use fiberlene instead of paper towel and also brush with coarse/horse hair/fine nylon after scraping to structure the base. I fly down cat tracks past all the skiers, leaving them questioning their life choices.
Really cool! Long time home waxer 1st time caller here. My technique is a little different. I have lib tech black base boards. The thirstiest base in the business. I hot wax new boards until they don't get chapped/thirsty after a day ot two. When the base gets seasoned I just rub on and cork off to temp daily. Unless the snow is old and granulated or old spring snow as long as my base isn't chapped I rub on cork off to temp. Also location makes things different for everyone. I'm blessed to live in a western location with season long edgeable snow but not a high rockies climate nor a coastal climate. My technique works perfect for me and my black base mervin boards. On the flat exit run I consistently pass everyone in the flats for a decade and a half. Thankfully industry kooks haven't invaded my locale for I would pass them too. Snowboarding is funner with a really fast board that passes skiers on cat tracks.
Congrats on the win... Sounds like Cannon is coming for ya though! Being a mid-west shredder my dream is too make it out to the Pacific Northwest. Love the reviews!
Thanks for the great Vid Mark! I've been waxing my boards this way for 30+ yrs and always have a super fast ride. One difference is I still scrape/cork/scrape as the final step instead of scrape/brush. Is there a reason not to use a cork anymore other than they're hard to find?
My routine for the last 39 years has been wax, scrape, cork and finish with brush. I used to compete so that was always my go to method, but today I use it mostly to get me through flat spots
The cork came from XC skiing. Really designed to friction rub glide wax on while without an iron. We also cork in fluro-carbons ( toko di-bloc and Swix cera powders ). unhealthy stuff...but really fast when there is available moisture. Corking makes a wax job look good , but one usually has too much wax left on there if corking is "shining up" the base.
I got my board waxed and edged before i stored it away last season. For this season do i have to get it waxed again? Or is the waxing before storage still fine? I sont think it just sitting in my basement removes wax 😅
I recently got a new capita BSOD, and this thing has crazy amounts of structure! It’s not something I’ve ever dealt with or am used to. It’s incredible fast and you can even hear it in snow. Anyways, would just waxing it like this get rid of the structure? Is there something different that needs to be done with heavily ground structured bases?
Good stuff Man. I have been waxing here and there. I have a burton iron. Temp Settings are one dot, two dots, 3 dots. Not sure where I should be when. Also I always seem to drip on way too much wax initially, and then have to scrape a ton after heating it into the base of the boards. Trying to cut back. Do you have a method to drip the correct amount? How little is not enough?
Thanks for the great vid...with regards storage wax..you say wax on the edges can trap moisture, so when putting wax on for storage over summer...I understand you don't scrape it, just leave it thick...but should you scrape it off the edges then? Thanks
Hi Mark, any advice on technique or scrapper suggestion for boards with 3D base profile. For example, the straight scrapper would not work when I am trying to work on my Burton backseat driver.
Base cleaners are quite good and safe for one's boards these days. However, most usually remove most of the wax...even the good stuff thats in there doing its job. Most techs only use base cleaner when the snow is old and dirty. Dirt, oils and grease from the lifts are the SLOWEST particles on your base. Springtime conditions usually require base cleaner....pretty much every day after riding. Gotta wax again each time afterwards too.
I have always used one of those green kitchen scrubbers to finish. I really like to polish it up. And when I have not done that, I notice there are sticky patches still left from the scrape. Am I not scraping enough? Is the scraper not sharp enough? It always seems like I can not get enough off without the scourer. Thanks for the great videos Mark. Keep em comin.
Definitely sounds like you need to get your scraper sharper, and or buy a new scraper too. This helps an unbelievable amount. You'll be able to get it all off WAY easier. Use your scrubber a bit as a final polish...doesnt hurt.
@@markfawcett8142 I did just that a few days ago and yeah. Big difference. Pretty much didn't need the pad. One more question.. you put your scraper edge against the board at an acute angle eh? Does it make a difference if you place it obtuse? I feel like I have better leverage with the latter but maybe I'm being too neurotic with how much wax I actually want to take off.. ? Thanks man. I really appreciate your content. I stopped by the store back in the spring when I was passing through. Hope to be back for a visit some time soon.
What sort of treatment do you give your edges and at what frequency? I pretty much only smooth out bad burs but never attempt to sharpen the whole edge
watch for a video coming on that. Takes some practice ( on an older deck ) and specific tools. I check, and work on my edges every 2 days. easy to maintain with a proper diamond stone ( not the shitty ones from Napa autoparts )
I ride a lot of park so my base gets pretty beat up....not gouged, but plenty of minor sideways streaks from boardslides. How much performance am I losing by not getting a base grind to clean that up mid season? Edit: some of my older boards I've even noticed I have to round the iron to get the last 1/4 inch of ptex near the edge. How bad is that for the board?
If a truly flat iron is sturggling to get wax on the edge, you are definitley in need of a stone grind. If the edge sections (1/4" - 1/2") are really rounded off , the stone might not be able to flatten it either. New board time ! ( Often , the vertically laminated wood cores get over worked, and warp into that convex shape. i've even broken a board in that linear manner, 1/2" inside the edge )
Probably one of the best and most concise videos on waxing a board. Good job. Other videos I’ve seen can be so convoluted and contradictory.
I started waxing about 5 years ago with a sort of 'all-in-one' tuning kit. I chemical clean, then wax, then scrape, then nylon brush, then horsehair brush. I don't race or anything but I don't often get passed on the flats.
The kit also came with a metal or brass brush that I could never figure out where to fit in my technique, now I know to use it first to clean the base. The kit also had ptex and a metal scraper and yeah scraping off excess ptex is the only time I use the metal scraper.
Yes, Mark! I love how you said that scraping is a vital part of the conditioning of the base. I'll be thinking of the floating micro hairs the next time I scrape. Great stuff!
I appreciate the tip of sharpening the scraper. I've bought 4 scrapers over time because they get more and more dull, I'll try that griptape trick and see if I can breathe some life into the old ones.
Nice one, Mark! Many, many snowboarders need to know much more about these 'boring, nerdy facts' that make ALL the difference when you're out there... It's all pretty 'cool' with the sideways thing, but after all it's physics in beautiful action ;-) 🙌
I can't think of a better person to trust for waxing advice than Mark Fawcett. Nice!
I’m pretty particular with my waxing schedule. I don’t like getting stuck in flat spots. I’m often laying down tracks into places along with the skiers. Sometimes I have to wait til a skier passes through first, thank you skiers! Thanks for the vid and have fun out there everyone!
Hands down the most down-to-earth waxing guide! Thanks very much for the video and hope to see more maintenance & servicing related videos in the future.
Well done Mark ...Thanks mate Cheers from Schweitzer Mt. Idaho
i like the heat and rub on method and then add a perimeter drip.
could you elaborate?
@@jplpagan it’s referred to as crayoning. You drip a few drips, and crayon on the base. Do a few more drips, and crayon on some more.
We will likely do showcase this in our "advanced version" of baord prep.
Mark sure can ride a board…just can’t spell it. 😂
Definitely the best waxing instructional video I have come across. Thanks for the tips!
Best waxing tutorial! Thx!
Awesome vid guys, greatly appreciated.✌️
The forager was such a fun board I wish I could ride it again
If there is anyone qualified to teach how to wax a snowboard its Mark Fawcett 👍👍 I always looked up to Mark when I was a young snowboarder back in the early 90s, A hero to us here in here in Atlantic Canada. A great video for sure, this is the best advice you will get on how to wax your board. You can't get experience like this just anywhere.
great video, thanks
Best reviews and info on the web! ❤
Solid waxing video.
Cold wax 1-3" from the edge to the base it will save you money on edge burn and base grind's if your carving alot.
Base structure is the most important thing. I haven't waxed my daily driver and I've no issues holding speed on the flats etc.
Yea but then ski shops will go out of business due to people not coming in for waxes
Always on point. So helpful. Thank you
Thanks for the Support!
THANK YOU!!!! Great tutorial
Great tips man! One thing I’ve always been told is prior to waxing loosen the binding screws off so you don’t get dimples on the base where the thread inserts sit. I’m interested in your thoughts on that!
Yes - we should have mentioned , loosen or fully remove the bindings!
I use fiberlene instead of paper towel and also brush with coarse/horse hair/fine nylon after scraping to structure the base. I fly down cat tracks past all the skiers, leaving them questioning their life choices.
Awesome!
Thank you for creating a patient but detailed explanation. -Mark, pure warmth and charisma, as always. I could listen to you teach math. 😂
I use the crayon method saves much time and energy scarping
Great vid, really well easy process to follow thank you
Great to know I’ve been doing it mostly right. Time to get that first brush.
I like the board butter sign!
Good one ! Thanks for producing these super interesting videos ! Keep them coming ! Cheers !
Really cool! Long time home waxer 1st time caller here. My technique is a little different.
I have lib tech black base boards. The thirstiest base in the business. I hot wax new boards until they don't get chapped/thirsty after a day ot two. When the base gets seasoned I just rub on and cork off to temp daily.
Unless the snow is old and granulated or old spring snow as long as my base isn't chapped I rub on cork off to temp. Also location makes things different for everyone. I'm blessed to live in a western location with season long edgeable snow but not a high rockies climate nor a coastal climate. My technique works perfect for me and my black base mervin boards.
On the flat exit run I consistently pass everyone in the flats for a decade and a half. Thankfully industry kooks haven't invaded my locale for I would pass them too.
Snowboarding is funner with a really fast board that passes skiers on cat tracks.
Thanks a lot! Another great and absolutely informative video. Keep it up!!
Congrats on the win... Sounds like Cannon is coming for ya though! Being a mid-west shredder my dream is too make it out to the Pacific Northwest. Love the reviews!
I find waxing my boards and my wife's, very therapeutic
Great tips, love the show. I'm wondering if you have a method to scrape the spooned nose of the Jones surf series.
Not really. Its ok to scrape it at 90 degrees to its "falline". Thats what I do.
I find horse hair brushes are helpful for 3d bases
Could you do a tuning video?!
gotta love how Canadians say "process". great video!
Almost as good as how we pronounce "aboot"
I’ve always preferred a steel scraper over plastic, stay sharp much longer, occasionally I run it down a file like in this video
Great video , but shouldn't you always wax from tip to tail for the best results?
I’ve been buffing my board at the end with an electric Buffer. HAAA
Thanks for the great Vid Mark! I've been waxing my boards this way for 30+ yrs and always have a super fast ride. One difference is I still scrape/cork/scrape as the final step instead of scrape/brush. Is there a reason not to use a cork anymore other than they're hard to find?
My routine for the last 39 years has been wax, scrape, cork and finish with brush. I used to compete so that was always my go to method, but today I use it mostly to get me through flat spots
The cork came from XC skiing. Really designed to friction rub glide wax on while without an iron. We also cork in fluro-carbons ( toko di-bloc and Swix cera powders ). unhealthy stuff...but really fast when there is available moisture. Corking makes a wax job look good , but one usually has too much wax left on there if corking is "shining up" the base.
I got my board waxed and edged before i stored it away last season. For this season do i have to get it waxed again? Or is the waxing before storage still fine? I sont think it just sitting in my basement removes wax 😅
I should have been left un-scraped , so that's all you need to do!
I recently got a new capita BSOD, and this thing has crazy amounts of structure! It’s not something I’ve ever dealt with or am used to. It’s incredible fast and you can even hear it in snow. Anyways, would just waxing it like this get rid of the structure? Is there something different that needs to be done with heavily ground structured bases?
Good stuff Man. I have been waxing here and there. I have a burton iron. Temp Settings are one dot, two dots, 3 dots. Not sure where I should be when. Also I always seem to drip on way too much wax initially, and then have to scrape a ton after heating it into the base of the boards. Trying to cut back. Do you have a method to drip the correct amount? How little is not enough?
Thanks for the great vid...with regards storage wax..you say wax on the edges can trap moisture, so when putting wax on for storage over summer...I understand you don't scrape it, just leave it thick...but should you scrape it off the edges then?
Thanks
@@markfawcett8142 cheers, thanks for the advice!
Hi Mark, any advice on technique or scrapper suggestion for boards with 3D base profile. For example, the straight scrapper would not work when I am trying to work on my Burton backseat driver.
Shorter Scraper - 5, 6" and then come at it on an angle ! Thats usually best :)
Hey Mark - what model of Swix iron is that? Thanks!
T72 Racing iron
Thank you!
Well done and proper. Not moving the iron like you're cleaning countertops or buffing car wax.
Great video!!
What are your thoughts on citrus base cleaners? Should I avoid using those and just use the brush method to clean my base?
Following..
Base cleaners are quite good and safe for one's boards these days. However, most usually remove most of the wax...even the good stuff thats in there doing its job. Most techs only use base cleaner when the snow is old and dirty. Dirt, oils and grease from the lifts are the SLOWEST particles on your base. Springtime conditions usually require base cleaner....pretty much every day after riding. Gotta wax again each time afterwards too.
The base on my gnu dries out after 3 days of riding. Do you recommend having it stone grind? Do you think putting a base prep wax will do?
I always reccommend a proper stone grind. Helps so much !!! and keep waxing !!
What vice are you using?
Great video about waxing! At 5:17, he meant Celsius right?
yes :)
Bring back Sacred Ride!
Would LOVE to !!!! Have to convince my wife that we might be able to have the show fiscally sustainable...haha !
I wax every 2nd session... completely over the top but I enjoy waxing lol
Can I re used scraped off wax?
Awesome vid, still waiting for someone to invent a better way to catch wax from scraping 😂
shopvac, on the floor and into the vac it goes
I have always used one of those green kitchen scrubbers to finish. I really like to polish it up. And when I have not done that, I notice there are sticky patches still left from the scrape. Am I not scraping enough? Is the scraper not sharp enough? It always seems like I can not get enough off without the scourer.
Thanks for the great videos Mark. Keep em comin.
Definitely sounds like you need to get your scraper sharper, and or buy a new scraper too. This helps an unbelievable amount. You'll be able to get it all off WAY easier. Use your scrubber a bit as a final polish...doesnt hurt.
@@markfawcett8142 I did just that a few days ago and yeah. Big difference. Pretty much didn't need the pad. One more question.. you put your scraper edge against the board at an acute angle eh? Does it make a difference if you place it obtuse? I feel like I have better leverage with the latter but maybe I'm being too neurotic with how much wax I actually want to take off.. ?
Thanks man. I really appreciate your content. I stopped by the store back in the spring when I was passing through. Hope to be back for a visit some time soon.
Hi Guys , another great video. Just brought a new GNU gremlin,looks very dry,do I need to wax from new ?
As a shop Rule , we always wax a board once purchased !
I got the capita mega mercury what's the best way to wax the moonshot Omni tune base?
Same as Mark has shown here .... all good
What sort of treatment do you give your edges and at what frequency? I pretty much only smooth out bad burs but never attempt to sharpen the whole edge
watch for a video coming on that. Takes some practice ( on an older deck ) and specific tools. I check, and work on my edges every 2 days. easy to maintain with a proper diamond stone ( not the shitty ones from Napa autoparts )
Wax last about an hour here in the midwest.
I ride a lot of park so my base gets pretty beat up....not gouged, but plenty of minor sideways streaks from boardslides. How much performance am I losing by not getting a base grind to clean that up mid season?
Edit: some of my older boards I've even noticed I have to round the iron to get the last 1/4 inch of ptex near the edge. How bad is that for the board?
If a truly flat iron is sturggling to get wax on the edge, you are definitley in need of a stone grind. If the edge sections (1/4" - 1/2") are really rounded off , the stone might not be able to flatten it either. New board time ! ( Often , the vertically laminated wood cores get over worked, and warp into that convex shape. i've even broken a board in that linear manner, 1/2" inside the edge )
What is the name of the intro song?
Please tell Mark Matt Mitchell says hello its been a minute
We Will!
Thanks Tom Segura!