Might as-well throw in my own trick of the trade. Wrapping the wax iron in a rag that has no elastane (not stretchy), and dry chalking the board (the same way the “pro” method used in the video); and then wicking the the heated rag with wax. All of this will result in a extremely fast hot wax but it provides more benefits such as not having to use paper towel and the rag will always be wicked and ready to go so if you work in a tuning shop you can wax boards back to back! Ps. Avoid molybdenum waxes! It’s a carcinogen and breathing in fumes will result in health issues later on.
Hey just wondering what you mean by wicking the wax. The towel method sounds like the best since you can save on paper towels. Also do you wash the rag afterwards or is the leftover wax beneficial for the next time?
I would think that if your not consistently waxing boards everyday like a shop, then you would just put the iron and rag in a clean bag so dust doesn't get on it until the next wax session.@@SuperXDARKSTAR
@@lequackenhow thick does the rag have to be? can i use a thin cloth one? microfiber? and by the way, if I use a paper towel, won't it rip apart if i wet it?
@@romaniasvic213 a thin rag will help absorb less heat and absorb less wax. So I would use a thin rag dedicated to waxing. Also some other comments have said that wetting the towel/rag is unnecessary.
Love the long format, in-depth explanation of how to do things. There are enough 5 min videos out there. Really going into the knitty gritty of these techniques is very very helpful
Your illustration of the microstructures (pores @ 8:00) is very helpful! It provides clarity on the importance of waxing for maintenance. Thank you for the visual insight!
Thank you for the time you put into this, this guide is extremely well made and very in depth. I'll definately be trying the paper towel method since I've started to hate waxing since it takes so long.
Nice video. Here are a few more tips on the "scrapless" wax method. - Fiberlene Pro towels are the best, but can be expensive. Avoid normal Fiberlene as it is too thin and breaks or rips. - Blue shop paper towels are available everywhere and work about the same as Fiberlene Pro. You might need to bump the temp on the iron 1C to account for the additional thermo mass. You also don't need to get them wet first. For brushing, you should do the brass brush from tail to tip. The nylon and horsehair brushing goes from tip to tail. There are reasons for this that come down to the "hairs" of the p-tex and how they should be upright for the maximum benefit during waxing. Also, you don't need the second metal brush after waxing.
using the brass brush right after the wax application and (srape or towel method) makes me nervous that I'm scraping too much! So you are saying not to use the brass brush after waxing? only prior to remove old wax? So after wax just use nylon and horsehair?
Also, so you don't recommend wetting the towels? I have the blue shop towels, going to be using those. What is the pro/con of wetting the towel during the hot wipe?
@@kentonharman4243 Got it. Seems like one person just did it once and everyone copies. I'll try without first and see how that works (no steam, just paper towel). Thanks
Oh. My. God. I tried this paper towel thing today and it worked GOOD AF!!! Just to mention, single paper towel tore apart so I just used double towel )))
Wow! Great in depth video about waxing :D. I am a nerd when it comes to these things and always want to know all the details, which not every workshop provides. You've answered every question I had, so really appreciate the effort you've put in to this video ^^. Looking forward to your next vids!
I’ve tried these irons vs home irons. You can get a home iron that keeps the temps for a lot less than the board iron that keeps temps. Doing just as good job.
Madre mía es el video más completo y mejor narrado que he visto en todo Internet. De verdad muchas muchas gracias por todo tu ayuda. Aquí tienes un nuevo suscriptor
Thanks for this video. I'm going to try to start waxing my kids and my board soon and this will be very helpful! Also cool to see another Big Snow local!
thank you so much for an in depth video and also educating all of us on my you wax and why you should be waxing. i really enjoyed it and thank you again dude!
Awesome tutorial! I sub + liked the video. Maybe if you could also add a sharpening guide. And also, what you do first? Wax and then sharpen. Or sharpen and after wax?
Sharpen, then wax. Sharpening isn’t too hard, just find what angles your edges are at, then get a diamond stone and guide and pass them. Video on this coming soon, though.
This is great, I love the idea of using less wax and not making such a huge mess! Can you tell me why you use a wet paper towel? Is it just to avoid burning the paper? Does it still absorb as much wax? I have heard of people using brown paper towels (not sure why brown ones specifically) in place of fiberlene, but haven't seen mention of wetting them anywhere else. Thanks!
Just consider the paper towel as a dollar store version of fiberlene. Does the same job, just not as well, but again we’re not racers so we don’t need absolute perfection. And yes, we use water so the paper towel doesn’t burn up.
(Please note, I've re-edited...) Great video, information, demonstration and content input. Much appreciated, thank you. Just I have some different ideas and understandings on some things mentioned. 1. Wouldn't you be infusing and mixing water molecules into the wax and into the base also with that ironing method? I guess it's not a big problem thou it's only at the beginning with a small amount before the water is evaporated. 2. I don't scrape at all because I prioritise delayed base drying, and a quicker and lasting job over performance and I don't find much slow down personally. I do it by using an all temp wax, leaving only a very thin layer, streaking it by running the iron from tip to tail, and then riding in not too cold or extreme conditions. (Have you ever tried it this way?) This is the first time I've ever heard off the concept that excess wax is damaging the board and I have doubt that it actually does, especially in conditions where the board isn't sticking much to the snow. If anything, it provides better protection for long against base burn, especially if the snow is icy, hard and coarse like sandpaper, then it is defending it by providing a lasting protective barrier, which would otherwise be gone by the end of the day, causing burn in turn sealing the base pores. If excess wax does rip out micro bits of base, then wouldn't that (although age it quicker) at least also have some advantage of making it more porous, allowing the it to hold more wax and become faster over its lifespan? (I've heard people saying that the base becomes faster over the span of its life if you keep waxing it too). Additionally wax is softer and has a lower melting point than plastic, and so I don't see how greater ride friction (which is mainly just under foot) with some excess wax can really damage it, or how the scraping and structuring procedures are really much different otherwise to causing base wear and tear. I'm really interested in what your thoughts are on this? Thank you.
I'm not sure about the water infusion concept, but I find this method only works with water. Using a dry paper towel produces less than desirable results. I carve/freeride, meaning I primarily ride on groomers and not much else, meaning I do need a fast base. Our priorities are different, and while I'm mind boggled that you don't scrape, I can respect your opinion on delayed base drying - it's my first time hearing that it can last longer than a traditional wax (paper towel method or otherwise). Check out this old forum on wax opinions by skiers. May not be accurate, but some good information here. snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=6730
I've considered getting a proper waxing iron but I've got sort of a sentimental attachment to the cheap travel iron I bought for waxing about 30 years ago - so I guess I'll keep using it until it breaks!
Great video I’m definitely interested in trying your paper towel waxing method thanks for sharing. Just some clarification do you use the same piece of paper towel for the whole base or change it after each pass? and if you do only use one piece for the whole base do you re-wet it between each pass?
I just use one piece for the whole base, but that’s because my boards are usually always spotless. If you know your base is really dirty, you can use as many pieces of paper towel as you like. You don’t need to re-wet the paper towels though.
Nice donek man! I just got one this season and it’s beautiful. And awesome video, super in depth. I gotta ask though, do you think a little excess wax really damages the base that much though? I’ve always felt like the protection from small debris was worth leaving a little (basically not brushing it all out or lightly brushing).
Get rid of all of it; I take a lot of this knowledge from ski racers, who wax and polish their bases far more than boarders ever will. It'll be healthier for your base in the long run. Happy waxing!
I have a Bataleon Goliath 2011/12 with 3BT (Triple Base Tech). Do you have a video, how to wax and then to scrape a Bataleon Goliath 2011/12? Please! So I can see how to wax and then scrape my board with 3TB (Triple Base Tech). (I'm sorry for, if my English is bit bad).
Unfortunately, the only way to wax Bataleon boards the traditional wax/scrape way is to just do it normally. Be careful around the rounded areas on the base when scraping as you can damage your base if you scrape too aggressively.
Amazing video, thank you @SHM SNOW ! But,. I'm having trouble chalking on the unheated wax onto the board (paper towel method), it barely seems to come off. Any tips?
Great informative video. Some say if the board has a structured base that wax is unnecessary-just keep it clean. Why do you think that’s a bad idea? Thanks
I might be misinterpreting the quote, but I think every base has to be waxed? If structure is being talked about waxing definitely always goes hand in hand with it.
How often do you use the paper towel method vs doing a traditional hot wax? Also how many days do you get out of the quick paper towel method before needing to wax again?
They sell plastic wax scrapers sharpeners online. You pass the sharpener through them and sharpen up the edges of the scraper. They’re well worth the money.
Hi, thanks for the video. Wanted to know what are your thoughts on liquid wax? I’ve been using it but it doesn’t seem to provide as much of a layer as compared to the wax that you’re using. Thanks!
Any tips to combat the harsh, and often very dirty snow at big snow? Ive been using graphite wax to keep the oils and dirty out which has been helping, but I am still having to clean my base after every big snow visit from the grime and dirt in the snow and on the features.
Yea, Big Snow snow is really dirty. The best way to keep your base clean, but more importantly healthy, is just to wax frequently. Base cleaner is a last resort, and waxing frequently pulls out dirt out of the base better than base cleaner, and will keep your board's base usable in the long run.
@@shmsnow I have been using the Pape towel method for over a month. I highly recommend any dome rider to use this method, especially with how often we must wax. Efficient, effective, and cost saving!
Just stfu and start the timer it will be done quicker, it actually takes longer, including scraping, and waiting for it to dry, and if you want a extra buffed finish, id say you even take another extra 5 minuntes with something finer.
I don’t bother to scrape my wax off anymore. It works just fine without scraping and I’d even argue that the wax lasts longer. One or two runs and the wax is smoothed out. It makes the job so much quicker and cleaner. Pro tip, wax your board at the end of the season before you put it back in storage for next season. It stops it from drying out.
You can perfectly wax boards with a normal iron, did it for years, just dont steam, or have one without holes, and ofc dont iron clothes ever with it after it..
The wax while economically friendly isn't the fastest, but the tools provided in the kit are good enough for the most basic of waxes. Just stick a roll of paper towel and replace the wax with the ones I use and you're good to go, IMO.
I used to use step-ons until I realized that their massive heelcups stop any attempt at a good heelside carve with duckstance. So I don't use them anymore.
Given how comprehensive this is I’m surprised you didn’t address fluoros esp since you recommend a bunch at the end. HF is fast but overkill for most people. Not to mention it’s not allowed at more and more mountains as well as hazardous to breathe. Love the vid tho :)
Silly question. Prior to soft metal brushing, do you use a base prep cleaner? or does the brushing negate the need to do that? I have seen other pros clean the board first. Thanks for a really well done and thought out video.
Base cleaner nukes the base - it cleans out all the much and dirt in your base, but it dries out the base heavily if used too often. Use sparingly, and to maintain the base for longer use a soft (or heavy) metal prush prewax.
@@shmsnowBase cleaner doesn't 'nuke' anything. It barely penetrates UHMWPE. A plastic scraper can be pushed or pulled. You would know if you're damaging your base because your board would look like a banana. A metal brush after washing is a waste of time. So is having round and rectangular brushes. You can reveal structure in the base with a brush but you can't add structure with a brush. I don't know where you've been getting your information from but some of it is way off the mark.
Hi it is a great video to learn how to wax snowboard. Thank you so much for taking this video. BTW, I cannot find the Amazon link at the description, can you pm to me? Thanks so much 😊
So if you buy a brand new board, should you wax it right away? and, how many wax cycles does it take to get the wax optimal infused into the base? Thanks alot!!
Riding it with the factory wax isn't the worst, but the wax most snowboard companies is closer to storage/base cleaner. You should wax it right away to flush out the base cleaner and get real wax into the base. It takes several cycles to get the wax properly infused into the base, but that happens naturally over time - just try to keep using the same wax every time you wax for best results.
Appreciate your tutorial, the method really works nice and the wax lasts at least 40-50km on snow at env. temp of -4 - +4 Celsius with appropriate Swix Wax! But be careful with wet towels, steam from mine short-circuited the iron (I have Toko T14), which led to a change of PCB board (the heating unit didn't get any damage). Maybe it's a rare case and I was just unlucky, but I'd recommend using a dry towel instead or Fiberlene PRO as proposed below. Anyway, the video is great and the explanation of how the wax really works with this paper animation looks lovely!😊
When you say you get a new board and wax it for the first 3 times with the scrape method, do you mean you wax it 3 times repeatedly before using the board for the first time? Or that's just the method you use for the first wax before riding, then when wax is needed for the next two applications?
I got to be honest that was a thorough wax!! I don't do all that. Wipe down with goofoff for the hydrocarbons. Scrub with scotch Brite. Melt a bunch of waz and spread it all over the board. Let cool down for an hour. Scrap off then scotch Brite in parallel to give it structure. It's worked for 30 years. I am not good enough to notice.I want a video on edge tuning!!
To each their own. This is just the cusp of the world of waxing - but most people don't need to go this far. I have an edge tuning video on my channel!
It seems that all the wax should actually be only in the P-tex and none should be on it. It does feel weird removing so much wax with the iron brush right after waxing though. With the iron, how much is too much? Too little?
You honestly don't need too much wax even for a traditional hot wax and scrape. Just enough to cover the base in a very thin layer is fine in most cases. If you start having wax drip over the sides of the base and fall onto the floor, you're using too much.
@@shmsnow Thank you. Would you then use a soft metal brush for like 10 passes still after waxing? At some point it seems that using the soft metal brush would remove all the wax except the one that penetrated deep inside.
@@WernerBeroux Yea, that's pretty much the goal of using the brushes - to remove excess wax. 10 passes, 20, however many it takes, however many times you want to do it.
I was just wondering why you were using such high quality "all temperature" wax, instead of temperature specific if performance is a key aspect you look for. I don't mean to sound condescending or rude, Im just genuinely curious.
Hey Seung, for brand new boards would you recommend doing the full brushing and waxing before riding it, or is it ok to ride it first with the factory wax?
In a perfect world I would full wax n brush it, but if you really want to ride the board, you can just ride it on it’s factory wax, no major problems there. Just make sure to give it the whole treatment soon.
@@shmsnow Hey Seung, you're probably planning on a video about edge tuning (maybe), but would you mind giving a quick recommendation how/where you tune your edges and the tools to get? The season is coming to an end and I want to protect my new board :) and perhaps ride it somewhere during the summer. I see people use an edge file, but not sure if the gummy stone, brush, and other stuff is required for tuning a board for carving.
The ptex and wood of the board expand and contract slightly when being heated/cooled. Having your bindings in while you wax places stress in the binding insert holes, resulting in heavy concave dimples on the base where the insert holes are.
The screws from the bindings will also conduct and hold more heat, which doesn't make a ton of difference by itself, but if you're going too slow with the iron it's more likely to create a dimple/damage
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Might as-well throw in my own trick of the trade.
Wrapping the wax iron in a rag that has no elastane (not stretchy), and dry chalking the board (the same way the “pro” method used in the video); and then wicking the the heated rag with wax.
All of this will result in a extremely fast hot wax but it provides more benefits such as not having to use paper towel and the rag will always be wicked and ready to go so if you work in a tuning shop you can wax boards back to back!
Ps. Avoid molybdenum waxes! It’s a carcinogen and breathing in fumes will result in health issues later on.
Great advanced tips! Thank you!
Hey just wondering what you mean by wicking the wax. The towel method sounds like the best since you can save on paper towels. Also do you wash the rag afterwards or is the leftover wax beneficial for the next time?
I would think that if your not consistently waxing boards everyday like a shop, then you would just put the iron and rag in a clean bag so dust doesn't get on it until the next wax session.@@SuperXDARKSTAR
@@lequackenhow thick does the rag have to be? can i use a thin cloth one? microfiber? and by the way, if I use a paper towel, won't it rip apart if i wet it?
@@romaniasvic213 a thin rag will help absorb less heat and absorb less wax. So I would use a thin rag dedicated to waxing. Also some other comments have said that wetting the towel/rag is unnecessary.
Love the long format, in-depth explanation of how to do things. There are enough 5 min videos out there. Really going into the knitty gritty of these techniques is very very helpful
Thanks! Doing my part in the fight against ever decreasing attention spans.
@@shmsnow you dropped this 👑
Your illustration of the microstructures (pores @ 8:00) is very helpful! It provides clarity on the importance of waxing for maintenance. Thank you for the visual insight!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the time you put into this, this guide is extremely well made and very in depth.
I'll definately be trying the paper towel method since I've started to hate waxing since it takes so long.
I hate waxing/scraping too. Glad we share the same sentiment.
I’ve been watching waxing tutorials for a month and this is without a doubt the best tutorial on waxing.
Awesome, I'm really happy you like it!
Nice video. Here are a few more tips on the "scrapless" wax method.
- Fiberlene Pro towels are the best, but can be expensive. Avoid normal Fiberlene as it is too thin and breaks or rips.
- Blue shop paper towels are available everywhere and work about the same as Fiberlene Pro. You might need to bump the temp on the iron 1C to account for the additional thermo mass. You also don't need to get them wet first.
For brushing, you should do the brass brush from tail to tip. The nylon and horsehair brushing goes from tip to tail. There are reasons for this that come down to the "hairs" of the p-tex and how they should be upright for the maximum benefit during waxing. Also, you don't need the second metal brush after waxing.
using the brass brush right after the wax application and (srape or towel method) makes me nervous that I'm scraping too much! So you are saying not to use the brass brush after waxing? only prior to remove old wax? So after wax just use nylon and horsehair?
Also, so you don't recommend wetting the towels? I have the blue shop towels, going to be using those. What is the pro/con of wetting the towel during the hot wipe?
@@TreyCamp I just the brass bush before waxing to open the structure and remove old wax only. Then nylon and hair after.
@@TreyCamp Nope. Not sure why this was recommended. You aren't trying to steam the wax out of the base.
@@kentonharman4243 Got it. Seems like one person just did it once and everyone copies. I'll try without first and see how that works (no steam, just paper towel). Thanks
Kudos to you for committing effort to produce such an informative video! Thanks for taking the time.
Oh. My. God.
I tried this paper towel thing today and it worked GOOD AF!!!
Just to mention, single paper towel tore apart so I just used double towel )))
I'm glad it worked!
I'm so glad I found your channel
Best snowboard waxing video I've ever watched. Thanks a lot.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Wow! Great in depth video about waxing :D. I am a nerd when it comes to these things and always want to know all the details, which not every workshop provides. You've answered every question I had, so really appreciate the effort you've put in to this video ^^. Looking forward to your next vids!
Glad you liked it!
I’ve tried these irons vs home irons. You can get a home iron that keeps the temps for a lot less than the board iron that keeps temps. Doing just as good job.
Yea I'm with you on that one, it's just I just don't have a traditional iron at home.
Madre mía es el video más completo y mejor narrado que he visto en todo Internet. De verdad muchas muchas gracias por todo tu ayuda. Aquí tienes un nuevo suscriptor
Super indepth guide, thank you! - and the fact that you ride a Donek rasies your credibility high up for me lol
Glad you enjoyed it!
The water on the nylon brush is a great tip and can’t wait to try it, thanks for the in depth video!
Glad it was helpful!
Best and most comprehensive waxing video out there\
Glad you liked it!
Bro this is a very good informational video, i learned a lot
Thanks for this. Ordered a new board and learned a lot here. Specificlaly with the crayoning(never even thought of this) and the brush types and uses.
Great video man ! I’m definitely going to change the way I’ve been waxing and grab some of those tools you used.
Best Video on this topic EVER!!!
Thanks for this video. I'm going to try to start waxing my kids and my board soon and this will be very helpful! Also cool to see another Big Snow local!
Glad it was helpful! I hope I see you there.
UHMWPE is also what lightweight, rifle ballistic plates are made from. Cool note? They float too!
Truly a ground(snow)breaking material.
Learned a lot from this video. Also I go to Big Snow pretty much every weekend so maybe I will catch you there
Awesome! Can't wait to see you there!
Fantastic video, I will be using these tips, thank you!
Awesome video!! I'm never waxing my board any other way
Right on!
Hats off to you sir, great video!! Very informative
Love the deep dive!
This is a reupload. The previous video had errors mixing up structuring and polishing. This video is now accurate. Apologies!
Nice tips! Finally no more mess
Wow, what a great video! I think the only thing you forgot to mention was a scraper sharpener by ToKo!
Purl Wax and Swix also have good scraper sharpeners too.
Oh wow I shall try the paper towel method? After each wax do I need new paper towel again ?
what a great video dude thank you so much for great information and advice.
thank you so much for an in depth video and also educating all of us on my you wax and why you should be waxing. i really enjoyed it and thank you again dude!
Your welcome, happy waxing!
Awesome tutorial! I sub + liked the video. Maybe if you could also add a sharpening guide. And also, what you do first? Wax and then sharpen. Or sharpen and after wax?
Sharpen, then wax. Sharpening isn’t too hard, just find what angles your edges are at, then get a diamond stone and guide and pass them. Video on this coming soon, though.
AMAZINGLY informative video!! Thank you! 🙏🏾
Glad it was helpful!
Best waxing tutorial for sure. Thank you!
This is great, I love the idea of using less wax and not making such a huge mess! Can you tell me why you use a wet paper towel? Is it just to avoid burning the paper? Does it still absorb as much wax? I have heard of people using brown paper towels (not sure why brown ones specifically) in place of fiberlene, but haven't seen mention of wetting them anywhere else. Thanks!
Just consider the paper towel as a dollar store version of fiberlene. Does the same job, just not as well, but again we’re not racers so we don’t need absolute perfection. And yes, we use water so the paper towel doesn’t burn up.
Thanks Man! Best explanation ever! :-)
(Please note, I've re-edited...)
Great video, information, demonstration and content input. Much appreciated, thank you.
Just I have some different ideas and understandings on some things mentioned.
1. Wouldn't you be infusing and mixing water molecules into the wax and into the base also with that ironing method? I guess it's not a big problem thou it's only at the beginning with a small amount before the water is evaporated.
2. I don't scrape at all because I prioritise delayed base drying, and a quicker and lasting job over performance and I don't find much slow down personally. I do it by using an all temp wax, leaving only a very thin layer, streaking it by running the iron from tip to tail, and then riding in not too cold or extreme conditions. (Have you ever tried it this way?)
This is the first time I've ever heard off the concept that excess wax is damaging the board and I have doubt that it actually does, especially in conditions where the board isn't sticking much to the snow.
If anything, it provides better protection for long against base burn, especially if the snow is icy, hard and coarse like sandpaper, then it is defending it by providing a lasting protective barrier, which would otherwise be gone by the end of the day, causing burn in turn sealing the base pores.
If excess wax does rip out micro bits of base, then wouldn't that (although age it quicker) at least also have some advantage of making it more porous, allowing the it to hold more wax and become faster over its lifespan? (I've heard people saying that the base becomes faster over the span of its life if you keep waxing it too).
Additionally wax is softer and has a lower melting point than plastic, and so I don't see how greater ride friction (which is mainly just under foot) with some excess wax can really damage it, or how the scraping and structuring procedures are really much different otherwise to causing base wear and tear.
I'm really interested in what your thoughts are on this?
Thank you.
I'm not sure about the water infusion concept, but I find this method only works with water. Using a dry paper towel produces less than desirable results.
I carve/freeride, meaning I primarily ride on groomers and not much else, meaning I do need a fast base. Our priorities are different, and while I'm mind boggled that you don't scrape, I can respect your opinion on delayed base drying - it's my first time hearing that it can last longer than a traditional wax (paper towel method or otherwise).
Check out this old forum on wax opinions by skiers. May not be accurate, but some good information here.
snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=6730
awesome and well explained content. keep on going!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I've considered getting a proper waxing iron but I've got sort of a sentimental attachment to the cheap travel iron I bought for waxing about 30 years ago - so I guess I'll keep using it until it breaks!
Nothing wrong with being economical, use it till it breaks!
Great video!
A video about edge tuning would be great!
Look forward to it!
Love the animation! nice...
Great video I’m definitely interested in trying your paper towel waxing method thanks for sharing. Just some clarification do you use the same piece of paper towel for the whole base or change it after each pass? and if you do only use one piece for the whole base do you re-wet it between each pass?
I just use one piece for the whole base, but that’s because my boards are usually always spotless.
If you know your base is really dirty, you can use as many pieces of paper towel as you like. You don’t need to re-wet the paper towels though.
Awesome vid
Thank you!
Thx man!! Do you have any tips for cleaning the brushes after waxing? 😊
Just run the brushes under water, if you have a shower setting use that!
Nice donek man! I just got one this season and it’s beautiful. And awesome video, super in depth. I gotta ask though, do you think a little excess wax really damages the base that much though? I’ve always felt like the protection from small debris was worth leaving a little (basically not brushing it all out or lightly brushing).
Get rid of all of it; I take a lot of this knowledge from ski racers, who wax and polish their bases far more than boarders ever will. It'll be healthier for your base in the long run. Happy waxing!
@@shmsnow yeah I guess if you are hitting debris hard enough to damage the base, the half millimeter of wax isn’t going to make a difference
@@NFsteez Yea, the "protection" is more for against extended abrasion against snow.
I have a Bataleon Goliath 2011/12 with 3BT (Triple Base Tech).
Do you have a video, how to wax and then to scrape a Bataleon Goliath 2011/12? Please!
So I can see how to wax and then scrape my board with 3TB (Triple Base Tech).
(I'm sorry for, if my English is bit bad).
Unfortunately, the only way to wax Bataleon boards the traditional wax/scrape way is to just do it normally. Be careful around the rounded areas on the base when scraping as you can damage your base if you scrape too aggressively.
Thank you for the video. I have a question for you. Can the excess wax that we've scraped used in the next process?
I've never tried that before, so I can't say!
Amazing video, thank you @SHM SNOW ! But,. I'm having trouble chalking on the unheated wax onto the board (paper towel method), it barely seems to come off. Any tips?
Heat the wax a little more, even to the point it starts dripping off the iron, then crayon. Maybe then it might be warm enough to crayon on.
@@shmsnow Will do. Thanks again
Great informative video. Some say if the board has a structured base that wax is unnecessary-just keep it clean. Why do you think that’s a bad idea? Thanks
I might be misinterpreting the quote, but I think every base has to be waxed? If structure is being talked about waxing definitely always goes hand in hand with it.
Thanks for the quick response
This video needs more attention
How often do you use the paper towel method vs doing a traditional hot wax?
Also how many days do you get out of the quick paper towel method before needing to wax again?
One question, my scrapper gets a lot of old wax sticked to it, it's hard to take it off and seems like it's less sharp because of it, any solution?
They sell plastic wax scrapers sharpeners online. You pass the sharpener through them and sharpen up the edges of the scraper. They’re well worth the money.
Great video- thanks!!
Makes carving way easier, you don't have to force the board as much to turn
Really good explaining video
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this! I see some people using a nylon brush as a final step, is this needed ?
You can use the nylon brush to polish the base one more time after everything.
Hi, thanks for the video. Wanted to know what are your thoughts on liquid wax? I’ve been using it but it doesn’t seem to provide as much of a layer as compared to the wax that you’re using. Thanks!
Liquid wax is a great way to boost how slippery your board is for a few hours, but try not to use it as a replacement for actual waxing.
Any tips to combat the harsh, and often very dirty snow at big snow?
Ive been using graphite wax to keep the oils and dirty out which has been helping, but I am still having to clean my base after every big snow visit from the grime and dirt in the snow and on the features.
Yea, Big Snow snow is really dirty. The best way to keep your base clean, but more importantly healthy, is just to wax frequently. Base cleaner is a last resort, and waxing frequently pulls out dirt out of the base better than base cleaner, and will keep your board's base usable in the long run.
@@shmsnow I have been using the Pape towel method for over a month. I highly recommend any dome rider to use this method, especially with how often we must wax. Efficient, effective, and cost saving!
@@AnthonyBlue1 yep absolutely! Game changer.
Great stuff! Keep it up 🤙🏼
learn to wax your board in 15 minutes with this 30 minute video lol
At least it’s more detailed than all those 5 min videos.
It’s a 30min video that teaches you how you can wax your board in 15mins, what part is funny to you?
@@kims2rNah it made me laugh haha
Just stfu and start the timer it will be done quicker, it actually takes longer, including scraping, and waiting for it to dry, and if you want a extra buffed finish, id say you even take another extra 5 minuntes with something finer.
Wait til you learn how long it takes a surgeon to operate for an hour 😅
I don’t bother to scrape my wax off anymore. It works just fine without scraping and I’d even argue that the wax lasts longer. One or two runs and the wax is smoothed out. It makes the job so much quicker and cleaner.
Pro tip, wax your board at the end of the season before you put it back in storage for next season. It stops it from drying out.
That's a good way to do it if you just want to keep the board in good condition for next season.
I've been reading mixed reviews on brass brush after waxing? Should you use brass after waxing or just before waxing?
@shmsnow
Both - before to remove dirt and other excess off the base, after to remove as much wax off the base as you can.
You can perfectly wax boards with a normal iron, did it for years, just dont steam, or have one without holes, and ofc dont iron clothes ever with it after it..
"Thats a donek base structure" was my first thought; I have spent way too long looking at my boards base jfc
All the way!
what is your opinion on the purl waxing tune kit?
The wax while economically friendly isn't the fastest, but the tools provided in the kit are good enough for the most basic of waxes. Just stick a roll of paper towel and replace the wax with the ones I use and you're good to go, IMO.
How do you like the step-ons? Are they worth it? Esp when you need step on boots too. What step-on boots do you use? Thank you very much.
I used to use step-ons until I realized that their massive heelcups stop any attempt at a good heelside carve with duckstance. So I don't use them anymore.
Given how comprehensive this is I’m surprised you didn’t address fluoros esp since you recommend a bunch at the end. HF is fast but overkill for most people. Not to mention it’s not allowed at more and more mountains as well as hazardous to breathe.
Love the vid tho :)
Nowadays ZUM wax uses non fluoro waxes, but some of their packaging is from the pre-ban era. Hence the HF on the packaging
Would you say this method also applies to waxing skis? Great video btw!
Absolutely! Both skis and snowboards use p-tex for their bases.
hi really nice video! i saw BigSnow on ur mid clip, is there any tips to keep your board nice and clean after riding at bigsnow?
Just wax and brush. Don't use base cleaner too much, it'll dry out your base over time.
@@shmsnow i think i saw you at bigsnow lol
@@kcxbaek3971 I’m here thursdays and saturdays for the next few months, so say hi if you see me again!
Silly question. Prior to soft metal brushing, do you use a base prep cleaner? or does the brushing negate the need to do that? I have seen other pros clean the board first.
Thanks for a really well done and thought out video.
Base cleaner nukes the base - it cleans out all the much and dirt in your base, but it dries out the base heavily if used too often. Use sparingly, and to maintain the base for longer use a soft (or heavy) metal prush prewax.
@@shmsnowBase cleaner doesn't 'nuke' anything. It barely penetrates UHMWPE.
A plastic scraper can be pushed or pulled. You would know if you're damaging your base because your board would look like a banana.
A metal brush after washing is a waste of time. So is having round and rectangular brushes.
You can reveal structure in the base with a brush but you can't add structure with a brush.
I don't know where you've been getting your information from but some of it is way off the mark.
Very good. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Hi it is a great video to learn how to wax snowboard. Thank you so much for taking this video.
BTW, I cannot find the Amazon link at the description, can you pm to me? Thanks so much 😊
Try copy and pasting from video description, that might work!
I had no idea how wrong I was doing it for 25 years. Lol.
So if you buy a brand new board, should you wax it right away? and, how many wax cycles does it take to get the wax optimal infused into the base? Thanks alot!!
Riding it with the factory wax isn't the worst, but the wax most snowboard companies is closer to storage/base cleaner. You should wax it right away to flush out the base cleaner and get real wax into the base. It takes several cycles to get the wax properly infused into the base, but that happens naturally over time - just try to keep using the same wax every time you wax for best results.
@@shmsnow would you recommend a hot scrape to get the factory wax off or would you just wax over the top?
I noticed the plastic scraper get dull, is there a way to sharpen again ?
You can buy a plastic scraper sharpener, it makes a huge difference.
Appreciate your tutorial, the method really works nice and the wax lasts at least 40-50km on snow at env. temp of -4 - +4 Celsius with appropriate Swix Wax!
But be careful with wet towels, steam from mine short-circuited the iron (I have Toko T14), which led to a change of PCB board (the heating unit didn't get any damage). Maybe it's a rare case and I was just unlucky, but I'd recommend using a dry towel instead or Fiberlene PRO as proposed below.
Anyway, the video is great and the explanation of how the wax really works with this paper animation looks lovely!😊
Fiberlene, the fabric of the swix gods.
Мужик это очень круто, просто открытие для меня. Спасибо
looking for an edge sharpening video
check back in 12 hours!
When you say you get a new board and wax it for the first 3 times with the scrape method, do you mean you wax it 3 times repeatedly before using the board for the first time? Or that's just the method you use for the first wax before riding, then when wax is needed for the next two applications?
I would say do it 3 times the traditional way, but that's only if you really want to go fast. Just doing it normally should be enough.
@@shmsnow thank you!
Isn’t Fluoro wax bad for the environment. I see you recommend a high fluoro zum wax?
Not as worse as the whole snowsport industry's cumulative ecological impact, but feel free to use whatever wax you want.
Its basicly PFAS and that shit is a forever chemical. Wich can cause serious health problems.
I got to be honest that was a thorough wax!! I don't do all that. Wipe down with goofoff for the hydrocarbons. Scrub with scotch Brite. Melt a bunch of waz and spread it all over the board. Let cool down for an hour. Scrap off then scotch Brite in parallel to give it structure. It's worked for 30 years. I am not good enough to notice.I want a video on edge tuning!!
To each their own. This is just the cusp of the world of waxing - but most people don't need to go this far. I have an edge tuning video on my channel!
@@shmsnow There was no derision in my text. Your way is definitely next level.👍
is it ok to wax the snowboard after the season and store it without scraping, then scrape it the next year before using?
Absolutely! That's the normal way store the board for the offseason.
Where does a cork block fit in the waxing process?
Those are only to apply super high fluoro content waxes/overlays, mainly used for racing.
Not sure if you actively read comments but here’s my shot..what made u chose the toko over the swix digital iron?
Swix and Toko are almost the same - I chose toko because my friend had one and I like using it, ha ha.
@@shmsnow thanks I ended ordering the same one your using..it’ll be here tomorrow. Thanks!
It seems that all the wax should actually be only in the P-tex and none should be on it. It does feel weird removing so much wax with the iron brush right after waxing though. With the iron, how much is too much? Too little?
You honestly don't need too much wax even for a traditional hot wax and scrape. Just enough to cover the base in a very thin layer is fine in most cases. If you start having wax drip over the sides of the base and fall onto the floor, you're using too much.
@@shmsnow Thank you. Would you then use a soft metal brush for like 10 passes still after waxing? At some point it seems that using the soft metal brush would remove all the wax except the one that penetrated deep inside.
@@WernerBeroux Yea, that's pretty much the goal of using the brushes - to remove excess wax. 10 passes, 20, however many it takes, however many times you want to do it.
I was just wondering why you were using such high quality "all temperature" wax, instead of temperature specific if performance is a key aspect you look for. I don't mean to sound condescending or rude, Im just genuinely curious.
What workbench is that?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BJH9YDVH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
What kind of bench are you using
Demon tuning bench. Super heavy and stable, the Demon bench is better than the SWIX and TOKO benches in that regard.
I did my first wax today.. OMG i've used to much wax .. to much work to scrape them..
do you re-wet the paper towel every so often?
I just use a new section of it.
Can I do this with out a wax iron
No
google it. you can use heat gun for example.
If the soft metal brush removes dirt and old wax, why wouldn’t it remove the new wax?
It does remove the new wax, which is what is desired. Less extra wax on the base of the board, the faster you go.
Is base cleaner ever necessary?
Nope.
Hey Seung, for brand new boards would you recommend doing the full brushing and waxing before riding it, or is it ok to ride it first with the factory wax?
In a perfect world I would full wax n brush it, but if you really want to ride the board, you can just ride it on it’s factory wax, no major problems there. Just make sure to give it the whole treatment soon.
@@shmsnow Hey Seung, you're probably planning on a video about edge tuning (maybe), but would you mind giving a quick recommendation how/where you tune your edges and the tools to get? The season is coming to an end and I want to protect my new board :) and perhaps ride it somewhere during the summer. I see people use an edge file, but not sure if the gummy stone, brush, and other stuff is required for tuning a board for carving.
@@henryouyang I’m planning to make a video on this very soon, stay tuned!
Why should I take off bindings? I don't get it.
The ptex and wood of the board expand and contract slightly when being heated/cooled. Having your bindings in while you wax places stress in the binding insert holes, resulting in heavy concave dimples on the base where the insert holes are.
The screws from the bindings will also conduct and hold more heat, which doesn't make a ton of difference by itself, but if you're going too slow with the iron it's more likely to create a dimple/damage
Not that I don't believe that the paper towel method works, I just want to know why it works ?
Fairy dust.
In other words, It doesn't.
Good video and graphics