$500 Shoes vs $5000 Shoes 😱 | Brown Semi-Brogue Oxford Comparison | Kirby Allison
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- What's the difference between a $500 brown semi-brogue oxford shoes vs $5000 shoes? | In this video, Kirby Allison reviews 4 brown semi-brogues to discuss the various differences you get in quality shoes at a variety of price ranges. The shoes in the video are from Carmina Shoemaker, Allen Edmonds, Gaziano & Girling, and Foster & Son Bespoke.
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I almost bought some Foster and Sons shoes at £5,000 but then I remembered I needed a car.
Yeah, but I got my car for one shoe. lol
So fucking funny 😄 mdr
I got my car for the price of a pair of laces
Rodney Higgins 😂😂😂 good one 👍🏽
@@malcolmnicholls2893 me too. A 2006 Mercedes R350. Thing is in superb condition too. For 2500. Lol puts things in perspective
Semi-Brogue?!? I was completely Brogue after buying these shoes
hahahahah good one
HAHAHAHA
It's just that this guy is pitching a semi while talking about those shoes.
🥁 perfect 🤣
Lolololol
I have zero interest in shoes and fine clothes and all that. But i can happily sit here and watch him tell me about this stuff he's interested in. These videos are great. Good shit, Kirby.
For $400 my dad routinely has western boots made, as described, to his foot. By the same craftsman he met 30 years ago, and in any leather he wishes..that is still legal of course. Most of his pairs are well over 10 years old, and look almost new. It's interesting to me how 500 bucks is the bottom of the barrel here. Makes you wonder, just how much value we attribute to things, based solely on what we pay for them....
I would like to know where your dad gets them
By the end of the video, I was convinced that spending $500 on your shoes is totally okay.
And that is how the halo effect works. In cars, the top-end models exist to make the merely expensive ones seem normal.
You mean spending $150 on a pair of shoes, right???
That's how they get you
It is considering they will last a lifetime if taken care of properly, albeit a $200 pair of allen edmonds (factory 2nds or on sale) will do the same.
Yeah, the fact that the “cheap” shoes here cost so much make me not feel nearly as bad about wanting to buy some $170 Thursday Boots lol
I found a pair of vintage 1970s, John Lobb, oxfords at a Second-Hand store. I don't think they were ever worn. they are perfect they fit like a dream. talk about a lucky find. for about 13 dollars
that is an amazing find bro, I'm also from California and live in most expensive area of California. I understand how awesome this must have felt. I wish I had the time to go to second hand stores, sadly, I don't, so am forced into buying Berluti or other shoes first hand :( - Can't wait to have some time off, certainly going to look through some thrift stores, it is really fun to bargain hunt.
This is quite simply an insanely informative video. I knew next to nothing about dress shoes before watching this, but now I want to know everything that I didn't just learn from watching this video! Mr. Allison, you are well on your way to building an American shoe empire! Kudos to you, sir!
I think you guys hit a home run with these comparison videos. Very informative, and very detailed. It's also nice to see these shoes in the close up shots, where you can see the differences between them. Also, a perfect showcase for Mr. Allison's passionate descriptions!
Thank you Mr. Allison for your incredibly expensive shoes, I loved the shoes
I enjoy how genuinely passionate you are about all these minute details, but without being snobby about any of it at all. I got the same feeling watching Jay Leno's video on his Lamborghini Espada- he really appreciates the beauty of the Espada, and without the least bit of pretension.
I truly adore the Carminas and the G&G's! Great video Kirby! Keep up the great work!
That color on the Carminas is amazing.
I know I’m trying to get some soon
Kirby! I would LOVE a video on telling the difference between types of leather, when labels do not suffice.
So the $515 shoes are cheap ones. Ok.
No. He said it's an excellent value for what your getting. :-)I get that.
But they are one of the chepeast from quality ones.
I know. I was thinking - do a video on the difference between a $50 pair and a $500 pair
If I bought a pair of $515 dollar shoes, I wouldn't even wear 'em. They would be behind a glass display.
Lol I got a pair of military surplus dress shoes for like 60 bucks. They last you twice as long. I dont like dress shoes enough to spend this much on em. Some people have expensive tastes but me? I prefer practicality. I normally wear German navy jack boots that cost me 150 USD and they will last almost a lifetime!
The first thing I noticed in this video is your tie. It’s the first time I have seen a brown tie and found it appealing. It really goes well with the simple navy suit. **shuffles off to view quality brown grenadine ties** 😂
2 Years to make!...what are they doing, waiting for the cow to die of old age?
HAHAHAHAHA!
LOL
Hahaha!!
lmao
if a shoe takes two years to beeing made , nobody believes that , only giving reasons to steaing the money of stupid customers
Can you do a video on the difference between $200 Air Jordans and $20000 Pair of Jordans.
james P The only difference is how rich is the moron that buys them as opposed to the moron that steals them
Human skin
The difference is 19800$...nothing else
Garantia COBIA it’s about both elegance AND stupidity...!! :))
The only difference is the $20000 pair is extremely rare, one of a kind edition. Not that I think it justifies the price, but there are rich people who collect all kinds of stupid things.
Seems like Carmina’s are the best value for money based on this and the cap toe Oxford video. What happens to a $5,000 pair of shoes when you get caught in the rain and are puddling jumping in Manhattan? You should do a video on that. About how these shoes wear in real life.
If you can afford a pair of bespoke shoes for over $5000 for a daily wear, you should be able to afford a cab from point A to point B ;-)
@@dmitriykagan3883 Well let's take an example of a lawyer, you have to constantly power walk over cobblestone if the court you work at was made anywhere around the 1800's, you may need to meet a client in a pinch at some place outside when it's raining, so the question of the OP was, whether these shoes are only meant for car to carpet use, or can they withstand the life of a regular person too.
"Whenever I wear those foster and sons, and step on some dog shit, I'm gonna think about the time I had my feet measured. I'm gonna think about all the time it went to go visit the foster and son's shop on Jermyn street, and I'm gonna think about the craftsman that I know made these shoes to the absolute highest standards, and that is just special for me."
It's "Jermyn" street.
@@RestlessTheRED Noted
"Most people are never gonna see the bottom of your shoe."
Not unless you're in the mafia
Laser foot scanners and 3d printers are widely available. Just a matter of time until the price of bespoke shoes come down dramatically since most of the expense is in making the custom last.
There is still finesse and artistry in generating the last shape from the foot. An analogy: we have digital photographs and high quality printers that precisely recreate images. Yet, people still hang paintings on their walls.
There should be in usa institutions that work for the shoe industry and they should have the equipment to take all feet measurements and produce the lasts. In México there is one in León, Guanajuato, its name is CIATEC AC. The cost was around 300 USD.
Is it available now?
14:21 Kirby, your love for perfect craftsmanship is priceless
I really enjoy your comparison videos like this. I also notice with your shoe comparison videos, your evolution from Allen Edmonds to shoes at just a slightly higher price point. I seem to recall in your earlier videos you constant praise for Allen Edmonds, it is beneficial to see how your tastes and attention to detail has evolved.
Gaziano and Girling brogue's are simply beautiful! 👍
Hey, I am no mathematician, but without even watching I am going to guess.....
$4,500.00?
Gear Zen That’s in £ though
Cris Yorke lol
I love these comparison videos..please them coming.
Super video, Kirby. I love G & G but the Carminas are exceptional at that price point.
An honest review. Pragmatism aside, you clearly identified your personal preferences. I like AE. I like hidden stitches too, but it’s not a deal-breaker for me. With the fudging, AE used to do fudging in all their shoes, but I think they removed that detail when they optimized their manufacturing. I also do believe that the 360 degree Goodyear welt does add some additional benefits to the wearer, offering a more complete break-in via the cork bed in the heal. I do believe that customers would be hard pressed to find that same level of quality from other brands at, or below, the AE pice-point. The other items are beautiful too. But like most men, I’m into finding that perfect intersection of value and quality; and elegant solution with all things considered.
Allen Edmonds would still be a fantastic shoe company if they just hadn't let their QC slip in the last couple of years.
I own a pair of ten-year-old Allen Edmonds brogues and love them.
I would love to see in one of your comparisons, a pair of churches and, or, crocket and jones. Very interesting videos!
Yes $500 is a lot of money. I used to get upset if I saw a pair for outrageus $300, but if you are going to wear the shoes for 20 years and resole them 3 times it is not that bad:
$500 to buy - wear them 300 times
$200 to resole - wear them 700 times
$200 to resole - wear them 700 times
$200 to resole - wear them 700 times
$1.100 / 2.400 times ~ $0.5 per day, or $15 on realy great shoes a month.
If you own a dussin shoes you might not need to trow away a single pair in you lifetime. You would only buy the shoes you realy need and love.
Myrslokstok shell cordovan shoes can last 35-40 years. Consider that!
It's a pleasure to watch a Kirby Allison presentation on shoes. His poise, polish and professionalism is-like Foster & Sons Bespoke-second to none.
Why did he not do a john lobb shoe?
@@nvrqwt th-cam.com/video/pc_TsO2lfUk/w-d-xo.html
Oh and Kirby, I’m looking forward to your in depth review of the Foster and Sons. When I was a teenager and into my twenties and would travel to London from Devon where I lived one of my first stops was to gaze into the window of Foster and son’s. Always afraid to go in as it was very expensive and I did not want to waste their time. I loved the display of brogues and hunting boots in the window and stood near the door so when it opened I would get a waft of the incredible leather smell. I’m so happy you have this beautiful pair and from recollection from those days which were forty years ago and finding out how much their Bespoke shoes cost back then actually what the cost is now is actually about the same if one takes account of inflation!
To me these and John Lobb are the Grand Dukes of London bespoke shoemaking.
ianmedium I once had a pair of RTW Fosters that killed my feet: I was never able to break them in. Fosters changed hands a few years ago and the new owner has taken them back to the higher levels of quality that they had fallen from around 15 years back. They will also do bespoke wallets (very good value costing no more than most high grade ready made versions), ably stitched together by a lovely Polish lady who works in their upper floor premises.
Kirby, I've really enjoyed these last couple of videos comparing shoes. Thank you!
These are some beautiful looking shoes. A medium to dark brown oxford or derby with brogues are my favourite types of shoes and what I consider my premier type of shoes outside of events that require black oxfords.
Great video Kirby. I was wondering why you don't have a pair of Crockett and Jones? I would love to see a review between a pair of Carmina and a pair of C&J.
You keep repeating that a hand-clicked is better because they can position it perfectly on the leather. This is true only if you compare it to the automatic positioning of the pieces. But if the person cutting the pieces "semi-manually" is using a machine for clicking, he also makes sure that the cutting form blade is positioned perfectly - that is his job and profession. The only difference between fully hand-clicked and machine hand-clicked is that fully hand-clicked takes longer and customer pays for it. One more thing.. Goodyear welted stiching is a type of stitching from a technical point of view, doesn't matter if done manually or with a machine - it means that the welt is first stiched to the upper and insole, and then outside of the shoe to the outsole. So your bespoke shoes (from what you are describing) are also Goodyear welt stiched (only done by hand). And by the way.. with 16 stiches per inch I would start worrying about whether enough leather has been left between them.
Very insightful ,thanks. Are you in the shoemaking trade if I may ask ? If so it would be great getting more comments from you .
I was thinking the same thing about the 16 stitches/inch. It seems like that would put too many holes in it and not leave enough leather to hold on to, like you said. Plus, how many times could they be re-soled like that?
I was exactly thinking the same thing when he was describing the stitch density.
hi, nice critique. I just want to add two cents. a goodyear welt is identified by a canvas band of material that is adhered to the bottom of the structural insole. This band of material has a protruding tab to which is sewn the upper leathers and the welt (an upper sandwich, so to speak). It is damn strong, reliable, quick, a brilliant innovation, despite being dependant on adhesive. Hand welting - as Kirby slightly misidentified - is the process of carving two channels into the bottom of the structural insole, revealing a holdfast to which things can be sewn. Mr. Goodyear replaced this with the canvas strip. I like the holdfast because if it were a sandwich, I feel like it would taste better.
So there are companies out there that do it for decades if not centuries by hand and get people to fork 5.000 pounds over, but yeh... It's of questionable quality...
Lovely shoes. I have to say that the G&Gs look to also have the cleanest and smoothest edges, which is a small enough detail that no one would notice when worn, but really shoes their attention to detail.
Kirby, I'm very envious that jacket and tie combination very sophisticated brown grenadine and that is a very nice shade of blue.
I know you've touched on this in other videos (like your favorite ties video and your shoe collection video), but what would you recommend as true staples (both casual and business/formal) to someone building out their wardrobe (shoes, socks, trouser, suits, shirts, and ties)? Or, what mistakes did you feel you made that you would warn others against (you often mention how long it took you to decide to get a bespoke pair of black captoe oxfords)?
Those F&S shoes are incredible. Great comparison video, Kirby!
I'm a shomaker beginner. Some day will make some great bespoke shoes. I love this chanel.
it is funny how people think, you will be thinking about getting your feet measured when wearing them... for me, I would be thinking these babies cost me £5000, lol... great video Kirby really like the GG again....cheers buddy
My dream pair is a Foster & Sons Spectator pair in brown and creme like from the movie High Society with Grace Kelly.
Kirby, good morning from Australia. I have just one question. How on earth do you get a £5000 pair of shoes past the minister of warfare and treasury (aka Wife)??? 😳
KurJan&Urbano I have the same issue - you need to sneak them into the house and when she first notices them tell her they were a bargain!
Russ 😂😂😂 Yes!!! Problem I have is that she knows me too well... She has this insane and quite uncanny way of telling when I’ve bought something pricey.
This is my favorite comment on youtube to date! Ministry of warfare and treasury omg I’m dying! Very true description! A big “hey yall” from the southern USA.
the "minister of warfare and treasury" is easy to fight, you just make her blind - precious stones and metals work best for such purpose
Russ it’s actually easy, you want a $5k go ahead but the Chanel Boy bag is amazing and iconic 😏🤣
These higher-end shoes are works of art, but at the same time I quite like the honesty of a traditionally made £300 English Goodyear welted shoe, which has all of the same functional quality. But I'd love to own one pair of Gaziano & Girlings..
You the man Kirby God bless you and loves you dearly!!!
Love your videos!
Would like to suggest a comparison video of UK shoe brands across different price points (Loake 1880, Russell and Bromley, Cheaney, Church's Crockett and Jones, G&G, Edward Green etc).
Ashley Brian Morales great Idea Ashley.
I agree... I would be interested in seeing a Northampton visit / brand review
thank you, after watching this video I bought a pair of Allen Edmonds Wilberts. I usually wear Foot Joy shoes.
Crockett and Jones shoes are my favorite. Not sure if I’ve ever heard you mention them.
I’m personally not a fan of Allen Edmonds.
The store features in the intro clip. That's the closest he gets to mentioning them. C&J are also a favourite of mine. Probably the best at that price point.
@Brugality I mean, they have a sale right now at their London locations (i'm here) and do factory seconds at less than half price. They also have a pretty active instagram. They're one of my favourites too but they are a business just like any other.
In South Africa the C & J what is loved the most.
Great video, Kirby! I really love the detailed breakdown of the same shoe style at different price points. What do you think about Crockett & Jones Hand Grade Collection shoes in this line up?
Brent Newbury comparable to the Carmina shoes
For sure one of your best videos yet! 🙌🏽
Drink every time time the guy says: nuance.
And "craftsmanship".
Or bespoke
I’m fuckin wasted 🥴
Love the brown tie!!!😍 Hopefully I will soon get those same Carminas.
Kirby. Once again a great video. This comparison video , like its predecessor, is very informative and well presented. BTW, love the new Fosters.
How about bally Of Switzerland, could you include them in a further review? All the best!!!
Nice video!
Allen & Edmonds getting hit hard recently (rightfully so!)
Yeah man they deserve it, Allen AND Edmunds both of those mustache-twirling, evil sweatshop owners
Thank you very much for this wonderfully produced and educational lesson.
very good info without being uninteresting. loved watching
I like the Carmina semi-brogue oxford *without* the medallion. It stands out a little better that way.
Good video. Value , much like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder
Obviously the bespoke shoe is going to cost a great deal more than the others, but really...I think the difference is really to be found in the things that are invisible without taking the shoe apart. It's going to come down to the nature and thickness of materials generally, the nature of the layers between the sole and insole, the presence or absence or nature of the shank, the employment of cork (or not), and the precision of the brogue work and stitching, etc. I would bet 90% of the actual quality difference (once you ignore the obvious price difference between bespoke and factory in terms of hand work) is going to be completely unseen but will certainly be felt by someone who knows what they are supposed to be feeling.
Loving it, Kirby.
I'm afraid what could happen once you venture beyond shoes and discover men's watches..
(No, I don't mean Rolex...)
Man I love your channel! Thanks a lot.
I am a leather shoe collector but these shoes are just remarkable. Hope one fine day I will definitely own these kinda shoes. 🤞
Excellent review as always! A detail on how every shoe feels and what is the most comfortable shoe from Allen Edmonds to Edward Green and maybe a bespoke shoe would be appreciated. And please bring your old wardrobe items for review time to time just to address the different aspects of them.
My cordswainer offers bespoke calfskins for about $500/pair. I have a few bespoke pairs, but all of mine are in ostrich. I paid about $850/pair and that included them adding their optional woven Kevlar capping that goes on the high wear parts of the outsole for both durability and traction. As for two of my pairs, I penciled up the design myself. And your sentiments about having bespoke shoes - spot on!
Shoe making has come a long way from those when Cobblers used to design and make individual pair of shoes for people who could afford them Presently a pair of shoes that costs circa US $25 is very good, comfortable and functional. Additionally, due to globalization other countries have graduated and making excellent footwear, namely, India, Malaysia and others.
Bespoke shoes and garments are, of course, made for the individual fitting him/her, the envy of those who cannot afford. However, today's shoes are far superior in construction and material. I grew up with bespoke shoes and attires ...however, the costs does not justifies the product unless one's needs are special due to accidents or birth defects.
One can purchase a very good pair of shoes for US $50 ...that are durable, comfortable and reasonable good looking ...
A pair of 25$ shoes is actually a disposable piece of garbage that will be uncomfortable and fall apart quickly under normal use. 25$ gets you plastic leather crap shoes from Walmart. Made by slaves for indentured servants. 50$ doesn't buy you much better either. 200-300$ is the starting point for shoes that aren't disposable garbage. This is the harsh reality, and one of the many reasons poor people can't save up money. They cannot afford anything that lasts long enough to be a good investment, constantly flushing their hard earned money down the shitter on crappy throw away goods.
That was a beautiful explanation of why you pay more money for certain shoes. I myself am a Meermin and a Carmina man if things go well I'd like to get a Laslo Voss and a true pair of bespoke shoes. Just had to let you know I love you videos, I always try to dress like a gentleman.
i
@ 5:27 "cordovan has a colt following" I see what u did there Kirby, touché good sir
lol!
Or is it a “colt” following. Get it?
@@frankrizzo7185 that's what I put buddy
Lol
Excellent - I learnt a lot.
Many thanks......all the way from London !
Dude started to get pretty freaky talking about the "waist" on those Gazianos. 😄
I noticed that the AE upper is cut in a symmetrical way, and the others are asymmetric. Symmetric design is when the shoemaker puts tape on one side of the last, draw the design on it, then remove it and mirror it, to get the whole pattern. The symmetric upper is then stretched to the lasts asymmetric form. This way, the lines will run a bit unnatural way on one side.
The asymmetrical way is when both sides of the last are taped, then then the design is drawn on them, using a measuring tape on both sides (the 2d length will differ on the sides, but they are the same in 3d), which gives a more natural flow on the 3d surface. A tiny detail, but it looks much better in my opinion.
Dude; I can’t afford ANY of this rn but I can’t stop watching this channel... so good!!!
Hi Kirby amazing video as always! I truly appreciate your channel. A question I have is what do believe is the best 'entry level' bespoke shoe maker? At approximately £1-2k.
Would love for you to take a look at Church’s shoes Kirby, especially their new Crown range of which there seems to be little information.
I saw them in the Church’s store in Vienna and they look beautifully made and a step above my Custom a Grade pairs.
At 2:37 is a flaw in the medallion location at the Carmina’s. They are on different heights, look at the distance between the welt and the bottom of the medallion.
Sorry, but it jumped directly in my eyes! I’m a quality loving guy, and this hurts me 😕
Ps: at 2:58 it’s directly visible.
Good video. It's good to mention that when you want to spot a quality shoe, one of the tips you may use is to see the shape of the sole, meaning if same is like a ''violin'' sort of shape (like Gaziano & Girling, and Foster & Son Bespoke shown in this video) then you might be watching of have in hands a good quality shoe.
I like to think I appreciate the finer details when it comes to quality shoes. Saying that, if I had to choose any of the first three options on the table, it would be the classic dark brown cordovan brogues by Allen Edmonds. There is no room in my wardrobe for a loud yellow almond toe or a chestnut chisel toe. Been there, done it, didn’t like - sold on eBay.
As for the bespoke shoe, very nice. I, like so many others, am not ready to take that plunge. I’m not sure I ever will be and it isn’t entirely to do with not having the resources. The only reason I could possibly justify it would be to help continue that level of craftsmanship, but it seems there are plenty of people that are willing to do it in my place. But we’ll see.
I find a nice Caterpillar composite toe work shoe goes well with both casual and formal attire.
Would love to see you do comparison on sport coats.
Am I the only one who gets ASMR from this? 🤔 👞 🎧
Kirby,
You should check out undandy custom shoes.
The bespoke shoes you show are formed specific to your foot anatomy. But they lack the ability to customize any parts of the shoe. At undandy, you can do a full customization on a pair of dress shoes (oxfords, loafers, derby’s, monk strap, boots) for around 200$. From the vide, you mentioned you spent over 2 thousand dollars on 1 pair of dress shoes. A video of you reviewing undandys inexspensive bespoke alternative shoes would be a cool idea for a video.
Great video by the way Kirby,
Kirby can you make a video about the different types of lapels and which type of lapels you suggest us to choose ?
good video, maybe somebody asked before but I wonder why you don't have Italian shoes reviews. Years ago i was at Heathrow and went to the Paul Smith store and to my surprise the shoes were italian, very confortable still wear them.
Interesting and informative, thank you!
this mans soul would disappear if you stepped on this shoes
Thank you Mr.Kirby Allison... Good content
April Fool’s is coming up soon. You owe us your thoughts on LA Gear vs British Knights
Mr. Kirby I see some comments below that are demeaning toward the "Bespoke, two years to make" comment. I was wondering though, outright, why does it take two years to make a Bespoke shoe. Either the shoe maker has a limited number of craftsman at his or her dispense or the bespoke process takes quite awhile no matter how many craftsman you hire to get the job done. Anyway, thanks for another great video and keep up the great work.
I didn't get a job due to excessive stitch density, they said that my appearance lacked nuance.
Never be a semi bro, always a full bro.
What a great video, those bespoke shoes are beautiful
So, basically, Carmina shoes are good quality shoes that you would buy? Are they the same / similar quality that Crockett & Jones?
I feel like we never see Alden on The Hanger Project. Any particular reason? They make a significantly better shoe than Allen Edmonds, even if none of their lasts fit me and I'm stuck with AE (even in AE I can only wear the 65 and only in 13 EEE, and it still doesn't fit me right, just right enough not to hurt, I have odd feet, not Alden's fault).
Hello Sir, I wear a 9.5US with a 5-6E width . Any suggestions? Most beautiful shoes are quite narrow and extremely uncomfortable.
Do you ever wear your shoes?! They are all brand new 😁
Great video. I was wearing my Crockett & Jones handgrade Barrington II today. Very happy with them, too.
😃 you made the brown video, thanks and it was world class.
I realy liked the Carminas and the darkbrown AE. Why is darkbrown so underrated?
Brown shoes have such nice dept. I have a pair of light brown loake, and when you polish them, and you pick them up and look at the heal the ritchness and dept is very nice.
The Carmina last is so much more elegant than A&E. Great to see these shoes side by side
Brugality looks like a great last
Fantastic video. Thank you.
what is stopping 3d printing from taking over the bespoke market?
jianhong lin right? 3D laser foot scanning!
Its about tradition not convenience
Just bought my first goodyear welted shoes (Loake) on Jermyn St. Don't forget to put your shoes in your carry-on, because if you don't you can't claim back the VAT at Heathrow. Just showing the receipt won't do.
Wow extremely fine shoes! Great information
Thank you for the education Kirby! I will never own a pair of bespoke shoes, but it's nice to know that such things exist and what goes into the making of them. Don't worry about your detractors. After all, they also watched your videos and that says something.
Can you do some comparisons of shoes based on where made? Especially would like to know your opinions of Italian shoes vs. English shoes.