Old-style last-making will never die out while there are still millionaires and enthusiasts but this method is very clever market placement to lessen the financial hit for bespoke shoes, Carmina deserves every success
Here's my two cents on the matter. I would rather have the most comfortable shoe possible if I'm paying that much money for a pair of bespoke shoes. So if I lose a bit of the hand making and the charm to get the absolute perfect fit then so be it. I've had shoe makers mess up the last before when I was getting a pair of a Austrian shoes made for me and the fit was terrible and killed my feet with terrible pain worse than buying a cheap made to order shoe. I have very wide feet with a super high arch but the rest of my foot is very skinny height wise. So the ability to scan your foot and have the last perfectly made to your foot is worth the loss of the hand made last charm. So to me the charm of all the custom measurements being taken by hand and stuff is not worth it to me for that comfort. The shoes themselves are still made by a craftsman and that's the best part of the getting a shoe made by a bespoke shoe and yes the artist element of the shoe does make it important with the shape of the last but the fact is the more accurate the measurement are the better the fit and comfort. So overall I think the scans aren't a bad thing and think of it like this some shoe makers make a last and do test fit with shoes with the proper shape but with sub par scrap materials as a test fit shoe they cut apart and they have to adjust the last and stuff. Overall less time from measurement to shoe with fewer steps and less visits is for sure worth it to me. But it is something to think about. Overall the bespoke shoe industry is changing for sure with technology and it's going to be interesting to see how the way they are made and stuff changes in the near future.
@@Big_ol_basswell I talked about it in my comment and most test fit shoes are made from subpar materials and end up being cut apart and then just thrown out after. Also for me it's a large commitment of time to go to most bespoke shoe fitters and ends up at least for me being a most of the day adventure with travel time if not longer depending on how you have to get there and the distance. I mean for me I love a good solid english oxford and a trip to London from here is a minimum 3 day thing. So like I said the less trips you can make from measurement to finished comfortable shoe the better for me. Now that's my opinion and some people like it and find it nice and part of the art process. even if it means a less artisanal approach to it to me shoes are tools not show peieces and I think buying shoes for art is a dumb waste of money cause I just have dumb stupid shaped feet and normal made to order shoes dont fit and hurt my feet. So for me the extra time wasted on fittings with sub par materials that may or may not actually be as comfortable as the actual shoe and you may need multiple fitting days apart to get a propper comfortable shoe. So to have to spend up to several days flying to a different country multiple times for it to me as a man just looking for comfortable shoes not art seems like a waste. and I can tell you with the scanned shoes I've had a pair and they 3D printed a softer shoe that you could try on with a leather like material that felt and acted like leather and it honestly ended up being just as comfortable pretty much as the finished leather shoe and it was made the same afternoon as the scans. So like I said to me it comes down to time and the amount of travel. Like I said if you want an artisanal shoe for more art than thing you'll walk around for 12 hours a day like I do then hey man go for it. Just from my perspective as a dude who just wanted comfortable shoes not art I looked at my options and stuff and I was willing to pay a lot of money for the shoes and I was thinking 10k for it since I watched several videos and talked to several people and it was one of the english shoe makes who actually told me about the company I went with. They said you dont sound like our type of customer we service people who are looking for life long art not a tool and they said they would take me as a client and do it but the process would be a lot different just to make a comfortable shoe like I wanted. So I got the phone number for this company and it was great. They understood what I was looking for and they did it and did it well.
@@jeffTheG44Agreed. In fact, bespoke is in many ways not such a charming process, anyway: slow, mistake-ridden, inconvenient fittings, miscommunications about materials and style.
I like how it was discussed that this is a natural evolution of the process, but the art is still there. This clearly won't replace the last makers, but it does provide a great starting point. Kudos to her!!!
Never knew they had a place in the city until Kirby made an episode there. I've since bought a pair. Such an incredible company, brand, and (more importantly) shoes.
I was just there Kirby, and I made sure to tell them you sent me. This is exciting tech for those of us who appreciate, but just cannot afford bespoke. Looks like I just missed the opportunity to get scanned, but I am always looking for another excuse to visit NYC.
I’ve had similar scanning methods for running and athletic shoes, specifically for foot analysis & running gait. It’s interesting to see it being used for bespoke formal shoes and a process which happens across the world. It’s good to see the technology being used in a straightforward way for the buyer, it doesn’t get in the way too much or too overwhelming
Carmina has a good opportunity to democratize the market of bespoke shoes making it possible for people of different socioeconomic statuses to participate too. Good job!
The process of crafting the last and adjusting a pattern will inevitably involve considerable amount of work by humans. It's not going to be cheap. You'd have to pretty much fully automate that process and nobody has managed that, yet. And in places like Italy, you can get bespoke shoes in this price range from small shops. It's not like you couldn't participate if you can afford to pay €1500+. Personally, I don't consider it a good value. Because, at the end of the day, the manufacturing, the construction, materials, everything is the same. It might be a good offer if you really struggle and can't find shoes that fit well. You have a significant asymmetry. Or if you want to do something different (it appears that is a possibility). I do envy the lasted shoe trees. I would love it if those were an option for MTO shoes.
Been thinking of this for ten years. Just seemed like the perfect thing to scan and 3d print a last. Just needed someone willing to spend the money to develop.
This is really good to see. While I'm a fan of the traditional method, this offers a slightly different experience and just makes perfect business sense for Carmina. They have excellent Goodyear welted shoes that were customisable and noe have this bespoke service at a fee that is a lot more reasonable than the traditional way. I really feel the big Northampton shoe factories should consider this tech and not get left behind. I still think deficated bespoke shoe making will stay (i hope so).
Well said! I would imagine traditional bespoke shoemaking would not really be affected by this. The traditional bespoke client probably won't go from "true" bespoke to this, but it will definitely pull up a new client base for those that want the best fit possible without the several thousands of dollars required by traditional bespoke.
I've watched several of his videos, and he has reminded me of someone, but i just couldn't put my finger on it till now! He's Sheldon from Big Bang Theory!
A couple of friends from my MBA and I prepared a business case for this same thing 10 years ago, we even earned ourselves a scholarship into a business incubator, which we declined due to our need to get a job cause of the MBA debt... Wish we had followed through
Great to have the benefit and comfort of crafted shoes - I used to get mine from Ducker & Sons, The Turl in Oxford who are sadly no longer there. Now W S Foster. I believe all of the pattern books/ledgers were submitted to the Bodlein Library in Oxford. Duckers’ famous customers included J.R.R. Tolkien, P. M. Asquith, Rowan Atkinson, Jeremy Clarkson, Matthew Pinsent and Evelyn Waugh and me 🙂 lol.
I’m in love with both these ladies. And of course the shoes are amazing. Will definitely stop by to shop and hopefully will get a chance to meet Carmina and her friend.
Compared to manual measurement and superfluous human interpretation in shoe making, It’s incredible for anyone who understands CAD how much more precisely an accurate 3D rendition of the foot can lead to the best last possible. Yet so many people delude themselves into ascribing a misplaced monetary value to the mystic arcane art of bespoke last making by hand. Wake up people, the future is here so the pragmatism of technology correctly applied and a scientific approach will always yield better results in shoe making, than sentimental attachments to the imperfections of artistic and interpretive techniques.
Interesting video, Kirby. I was in Manhattan last fall right after their big kickoff for 3D scanning. The machine was still there. Oddly they didn't suggest scanning and saving, which I probably would have done. Are you going to get to follow your shoes through production? Are they making the lasts with CNC and then hand finishing? They're creating a data file that should support that, and be much faster than handwork. $1800 for a pair of bespoke (BTW, how are you defining bespoke in this context? I don't sense the level of handwork you would normally attribute to bespoke. That's fine, but the word gets hard to define.) is less than my MTO G&G's, and much less than a pair of bespoke or even Optimum G&G. Given Carmina's general quality, that's hard to pass up. Really curious to see your finished shoes. You've been blessed with working with Carmina herself in Manhattan. I had that opportunity once myself. She really is amazing, knows her product, and wants to work with the customer. There's always been a drop off when she's not there. I don't have that issue with Simon or Rico at G&G when Tony or Dean aren't around. More an observation than a criticism, but it has been real to me. I have an amazing pair of Carmina cap toes that were apparently made just for the Madison store, suggested to me by the manager at the time, and a complete mystery to everyone currently working there. About 18 months later. That really shouldn't happen.
I don't think we can call this bespoke honestly, that is just false advertisement in my book like many companies call their MtM operation bespoke tailoring. Compared to the kind of G&G of course these prices seem good but compare it to e.g. Vass handwelted with adjusted lasts, Saint Crispin's with bespoke lasts, shoemakers in Italy... it seems rather bad value for a factory shoe. The upcharge for the last making is around 1000$. (At least.) Maftei for example produces handwelted bespoke shoes (including the last) from 1000€. If we are talking about value the Carmina offer is not that good. But design wise if you love Carmina then this is a very special way to get shoes from them with your own personal fit. And in the end only you can say if this is something you wish to spend your money on. I think they are trialing this process for now but what would be really good value, and I guess they will probably do this at some point, is if you only paid for the last once and then you could use it for multiple pairs of shoes for a small upcharge after that. But I don't see any mention of that on their website.
Is it possible to have the scans done to determine what size would be best for you to order made to measure? Id gladly pay to get scanned to know what actual size to order.
Hi Kirby. Love the content. Be great if you could let viewers know when you are I London next. It would be a privilege to share a cigar with you! Keep up the old ways and need for true quality.
Hm haven't seen this scanner before. I find it interesting where I could get 95% of the same data from the aetrex scanner at a fraction of the cost and it gives me pressure as well. Stl file quick and easy. This is quite interesting.
I've been breaking in my Carmina's and just this evening I noticed that they're starting to fit my feet almost perfectly. So in your opinion which is really better: a shoe you that broke-in to your feet over time or a bespoke shoe?
I just bought my first pair of Carmina shoes in Barcelona last week. The salesperson was telling me about this option, and he said it would run around $1,000 or so? Can I ask What the average price on these will be? Being in my 40s now and having suffered plantar, fasciitis and gout in the past, I've decided not to cheap out on my footwear. I would gladly pay more for a shoe that will last and feel great all day and night if it helps me prevent from having those painful days where I can't even walk. I love my carmina shoes.
Hello Kirby, wouldn't it be better to do this with socks on so the toes stay together? As done for fittings in most bespoke shoe making. Or does that mess with the machine? Looking forward to part 2. I hope you can compare what's different with this from a standard size on the same last. And visually point put the differences. Thank you.
It would be interesting to explore this option at some point. I don’t agree with some of the comments under this video that suggest this technology would replace artisan bespoke shoemakers. Not so much because the fit would be worse, but because people go to artisan tailors/shoemakers/shirtmakers/sword smiths/whatever for the artisan experience and a particular style as much as they do for fit. It might be an ideal option for some people, but the same can be said for ready-to-wear, made-to-order, made-to-measure, etc, in tailoring as well as shoemaking. Bespoke is a niche thing already, I don’t think this offering will change much, other than make the initial foray into bespoke more accessible.
Kirby, I would love to see you go into way more depth on this lifestyle. I want to do this but don't know good brand names, types of shoes, or even what to look for. It would also be great if you could show some ways of doing it in an affordable way. That way we can get started and grow from there. When you surprised Eddie with his bespoke suit, Simon mentioned the 5 suits everyone should own. What are those, and why.
If information isn’t forthcoming here, ask a/your tailor. A lot will depend on your lifestyle. Do you need a city suit for work or do you just like a suit when you go out for dinner. How formal is the dinner, lounge suit or full dinner (then black tie white). What climate do you live in. Are you likely to be out hunting. A morning suit for a formal wedding. Country tweeds. Non matching trousers and jacket. Are you a safe grey or bright check sort of person. Do you want a single or double breasted jacket. Wool, cotton, moleskin, corduroy, wool mix. 2 or 3 piece. That’s why you know more about what you need than someone else!
You need to listen to SartorialTalks on here. He's great. Personally, I think that you can go far with buying used suits on Ebay, being serious about your body shape and spending EXTRA but not lots on shoes. Lots of people notice good shoes, women especially. Can't go wrong with Oxfords in black or a rich dark brown etc. Wear them in and polish the hell out of them.
I wonder if AI model can be made to basically use your scan to create an acceptable last, maybe not bespoke levels of good but perhaps better than off-the-shelf and for a similar price.
Right, but Kirby said $5000 is what it normally costs to get this sort of thing. Maftei is under $1500 and Materna is under $2000 for handsewn bespoke shoes.@@arthurcatalanotto1151
I am going to try one of their MTOs. The last pair of European made shoes that I bought, Bostonians, I absolutely adored. They were made in Italy and were about $450 back in 2002. Obviously, they were not bespoke, but they were exceptionally well made and I loved the look, the feel and the way the wore. It was like slipping on a perfectly fitted glove. I went to buy another pair of them 2 years ago and... Made in China! I tried them on anyway and...garbage! It is so sad to see the old brands dying and the names being sold to be stamped onto cheap garbage.
@mtbokor1969 I don't know about Macy's, it was 2001 and they came from Men's Wearhouse (not much better, for certain, but it was my 1st year of Law School, so I couldn't afford much and $500 was my limit) but they were good for off the shelf. They were repairable and made well.
It makes sense. 20 years ago there was no internet to buy shoes from. Mens Warehouse was and still is a great place to shop. Allen Edmonds is not the same brand it was 20 years ago. Things change. @@johncashwell1024
Using technology doesn’t change the craftsmanship. The needle, the thread, each part incorporates new technologies. So a more precise measurement is just another step forward.
Carmina makes awesoome goodyear welted shoes. It is a personal taste issue in terms of whose design/last fits you best. I personally do not like any of the UK based manufactures designs. I lean towards spanish makers like TLB and Carmina and some from China and Japan like Oct 10, Yearn and Ichigo Ichie.
@@mtbokor1969 you do get more bang for your buck from the Spanish makers. But some designs are timeless from the isles. If it is worth the upcharge... Not for me personally but for some it is.
It all depends on the program that creates the last. Last making is not only about taking measurements, a good bespoke shoemaker will also note gaze and problematic areas. Shoe fit is also incredibly individual which is why a one fits all program will not work in the same way.
@@teekue what youre talking about is fine tuning a last. Im saying that the initial last which takes a 3D scan of your foot will 100 times out of 100 be a more accurate representation of the foot than a manual crafted one ever will. Its just a fact. Creating a 3D imaged last first then fine tuning it manually will be the future, except for the elitist that want to keep an outdated old tradition going
@@Masson1903 maybe it will be, but don't forget that these things cost a lot of money. Small operations will not be able to afford this, so they will stick to handwork. Scalability is key here. I have read discussions on this topic from lastmakers who said that their own measurements when compared to the 3d scans were as accurate as the scan. Don't forget that people have been saying for years that machines will take over in high end tailoring/shoemaking. And who is still on top? The ones with the most amount of handwork and experience possible.
We'll see if it actually is good. Bespoke shoes are also very good because they are handwelted. Carmina's are not, as they explicitly stated here. You'd have to be a huge Carmina fan to prefer this over other bespoke manufacturers.
All three make quality shoes. Affordable? Depneds on your definition. Camina has raised prices and a RTW shoe starts between $500- $700. There are some internet only brands doing hand lasted shoes for that price.
I've been wondering how long this would take. this is like a small step in the right direction. until i can get an app on phone to export measurements.
I really love dress shoes, but your pinky is the reason I dont wear em :( If you get a hand on an asthetically and also healthy pair and make a video about it i would appreciate!
Given the advancements in AI and 3-D bespoke manufacturing over the last year, I wonder how long it will be until the process COULD be automated. Obviously there will always be a market for the traditionalist human made bespoke style but many of the jobs we thought were going to be out of reach of AI like creating pictures, music, and writing stories etc. were the first to see penetration and rapid advancements. Maybe taboo for this channel but one can never underestimate competition- the result is extinction.
The problem with bespoke lasts is that everyone likes their shoe fits differently. Justin Fitzpatrick talked about it in one of his videos. Americans like very spacious shoes, Europeans like a more snug fit etc
It won’t take long for the AI to replace the last makers. I am completely confident that AI will do the job better, faster, and cheaper. Right now this process seems very primitive compared to facial recognition. They still need to put markers on your feet, lol.
Carmina you are Gorgeous, and I love your Curly hair but still I'll never buy a 5000 $ Shoe, 1st I can't afford it but if I could be, I would like to help a Needy family to make our Home or any medical Emergency and like to help a Brilliant student in its Study. But For just covering my feet I'll never invest 5000 $. And I also never want to go to that place where blady shoes are my Identity. Carmina my budget is 100 $ if you have anything on that budget then I would like to visit your Butic as Mr Allison Said. And thank you Mr. Allison for Showing us to Beautiful Miss Carmina.
Old-style last-making will never die out while there are still millionaires and enthusiasts but this method is very clever market placement to lessen the financial hit for bespoke shoes, Carmina deserves every success
All charm is lost...
Here's my two cents on the matter. I would rather have the most comfortable shoe possible if I'm paying that much money for a pair of bespoke shoes. So if I lose a bit of the hand making and the charm to get the absolute perfect fit then so be it. I've had shoe makers mess up the last before when I was getting a pair of a Austrian shoes made for me and the fit was terrible and killed my feet with terrible pain worse than buying a cheap made to order shoe. I have very wide feet with a super high arch but the rest of my foot is very skinny height wise. So the ability to scan your foot and have the last perfectly made to your foot is worth the loss of the hand made last charm. So to me the charm of all the custom measurements being taken by hand and stuff is not worth it to me for that comfort. The shoes themselves are still made by a craftsman and that's the best part of the getting a shoe made by a bespoke shoe and yes the artist element of the shoe does make it important with the shape of the last but the fact is the more accurate the measurement are the better the fit and comfort. So overall I think the scans aren't a bad thing and think of it like this some shoe makers make a last and do test fit with shoes with the proper shape but with sub par scrap materials as a test fit shoe they cut apart and they have to adjust the last and stuff. Overall less time from measurement to shoe with fewer steps and less visits is for sure worth it to me. But it is something to think about. Overall the bespoke shoe industry is changing for sure with technology and it's going to be interesting to see how the way they are made and stuff changes in the near future.
@jeffTheG44 That's what test fittings are for. You could still end up with an uncomfortable shoe even with scans.
@@Big_ol_basswell I talked about it in my comment and most test fit shoes are made from subpar materials and end up being cut apart and then just thrown out after. Also for me it's a large commitment of time to go to most bespoke shoe fitters and ends up at least for me being a most of the day adventure with travel time if not longer depending on how you have to get there and the distance. I mean for me I love a good solid english oxford and a trip to London from here is a minimum 3 day thing. So like I said the less trips you can make from measurement to finished comfortable shoe the better for me. Now that's my opinion and some people like it and find it nice and part of the art process. even if it means a less artisanal approach to it to me shoes are tools not show peieces and I think buying shoes for art is a dumb waste of money cause I just have dumb stupid shaped feet and normal made to order shoes dont fit and hurt my feet. So for me the extra time wasted on fittings with sub par materials that may or may not actually be as comfortable as the actual shoe and you may need multiple fitting days apart to get a propper comfortable shoe. So to have to spend up to several days flying to a different country multiple times for it to me as a man just looking for comfortable shoes not art seems like a waste. and I can tell you with the scanned shoes I've had a pair and they 3D printed a softer shoe that you could try on with a leather like material that felt and acted like leather and it honestly ended up being just as comfortable pretty much as the finished leather shoe and it was made the same afternoon as the scans. So like I said to me it comes down to time and the amount of travel. Like I said if you want an artisanal shoe for more art than thing you'll walk around for 12 hours a day like I do then hey man go for it. Just from my perspective as a dude who just wanted comfortable shoes not art I looked at my options and stuff and I was willing to pay a lot of money for the shoes and I was thinking 10k for it since I watched several videos and talked to several people and it was one of the english shoe makes who actually told me about the company I went with. They said you dont sound like our type of customer we service people who are looking for life long art not a tool and they said they would take me as a client and do it but the process would be a lot different just to make a comfortable shoe like I wanted. So I got the phone number for this company and it was great. They understood what I was looking for and they did it and did it well.
@@jeffTheG44Agreed. In fact, bespoke is in many ways not such a charming process, anyway: slow, mistake-ridden, inconvenient fittings, miscommunications about materials and style.
Quality, craftsmanship, tradition and a 3D scanner.
I like how it was discussed that this is a natural evolution of the process, but the art is still there. This clearly won't replace the last makers, but it does provide a great starting point. Kudos to her!!!
I was wondering when someone would use this technology for making bespoke shoes. Thanks Kirby for bringing it on the channel.
Do you have anything in mind "Cap Toe Oxford" Ha ha ha I knew Kirby was going to say that.
So did I! That was kinda funny.
Never knew they had a place in the city until Kirby made an episode there. I've since bought a pair. Such an incredible company, brand, and (more importantly) shoes.
I was just there Kirby, and I made sure to tell them you sent me. This is exciting tech for those of us who appreciate, but just cannot afford bespoke. Looks like I just missed the opportunity to get scanned, but I am always looking for another excuse to visit NYC.
The two of you look like a perfect match 😮
Great,and congratulations for your collaboration Budd shirt&Kirby Allison
I’ve had similar scanning methods for running and athletic shoes, specifically for foot analysis & running gait. It’s interesting to see it being used for bespoke formal shoes and a process which happens across the world.
It’s good to see the technology being used in a straightforward way for the buyer, it doesn’t get in the way too much or too overwhelming
How is it utilized for running shoes?
Carmina has a good opportunity to democratize the market of bespoke shoes making it possible for people of different socioeconomic statuses to participate too. Good job!
Carminas after care service isn’t great
The process of crafting the last and adjusting a pattern will inevitably involve considerable amount of work by humans. It's not going to be cheap. You'd have to pretty much fully automate that process and nobody has managed that, yet. And in places like Italy, you can get bespoke shoes in this price range from small shops. It's not like you couldn't participate if you can afford to pay €1500+. Personally, I don't consider it a good value. Because, at the end of the day, the manufacturing, the construction, materials, everything is the same. It might be a good offer if you really struggle and can't find shoes that fit well. You have a significant asymmetry. Or if you want to do something different (it appears that is a possibility). I do envy the lasted shoe trees. I would love it if those were an option for MTO shoes.
The shoes still will be too expensive for most people.
@@Rainy_Day12234 eh, not true. 88% of Americans own a car and that is a MUCH bigger expense
I'm excited to see this. Thanks.
Been thinking of this for ten years. Just seemed like the perfect thing to scan and 3d print a last. Just needed someone willing to spend the money to develop.
This is really good to see. While I'm a fan of the traditional method, this offers a slightly different experience and just makes perfect business sense for Carmina. They have excellent Goodyear welted shoes that were customisable and noe have this bespoke service at a fee that is a lot more reasonable than the traditional way.
I really feel the big Northampton shoe factories should consider this tech and not get left behind.
I still think deficated bespoke shoe making will stay (i hope so).
Well said! I would imagine traditional bespoke shoemaking would not really be affected by this. The traditional bespoke client probably won't go from "true" bespoke to this, but it will definitely pull up a new client base for those that want the best fit possible without the several thousands of dollars required by traditional bespoke.
you should let us know when you are visiting nyc so we can do a proper greeting like you did previous years on madison ave
Can’t wait to get a pair ,thanks 🏴👍
Great video Kirby, Please ask them to come to San Francisco too!!!!!!!!!!!
I’ll just get a pair off the shelf,thanks 🏴👍
I am excited too.
I've watched several of his videos, and he has reminded me of someone, but i just couldn't put my finger on it till now! He's Sheldon from Big Bang Theory!
A couple of friends from my MBA and I prepared a business case for this same thing 10 years ago, we even earned ourselves a scholarship into a business incubator, which we declined due to our need to get a job cause of the MBA debt... Wish we had followed through
cool technology, looking forward to seeing the finished product!
Hey Kirby, did they call you for the trial? It has been 3 months already. Really interested in seeing their WIP.
Great to have the benefit and comfort of crafted shoes - I used to get mine from Ducker & Sons, The Turl in Oxford who are sadly no longer there. Now W S Foster. I believe all of the pattern books/ledgers were submitted to the Bodlein Library in Oxford. Duckers’ famous customers included J.R.R. Tolkien, P. M. Asquith, Rowan Atkinson, Jeremy Clarkson, Matthew Pinsent and Evelyn Waugh and me 🙂 lol.
Very sad that ducker and foster are history now. I do really like foster and son.
Amazing, was thinking yesterday why no one did this, was in the shoe trade so my thoughts go to these things.
I’m in love with both these ladies. And of course the shoes are amazing. Will definitely stop by to shop and hopefully will get a chance to meet Carmina and her friend.
Attila shoes in Budapest use a machine similar to this for their bespoke shoes.
Compared to manual measurement and superfluous human interpretation in shoe making, It’s incredible for anyone who understands CAD how much more precisely an accurate 3D rendition of the foot can lead to the best last possible. Yet so many people delude themselves into ascribing a misplaced monetary value to the mystic arcane art of bespoke last making by hand. Wake up people, the future is here so the pragmatism of technology correctly applied and a scientific approach will always yield better results in shoe making, than sentimental attachments to the imperfections of artistic and interpretive techniques.
Kirby I was heading to London in 4 weeks but I will have to divert to NY on my way to London lol.
Interesting video, Kirby. I was in Manhattan last fall right after their big kickoff for 3D scanning. The machine was still there. Oddly they didn't suggest scanning and saving, which I probably would have done. Are you going to get to follow your shoes through production? Are they making the lasts with CNC and then hand finishing? They're creating a data file that should support that, and be much faster than handwork.
$1800 for a pair of bespoke (BTW, how are you defining bespoke in this context? I don't sense the level of handwork you would normally attribute to bespoke. That's fine, but the word gets hard to define.) is less than my MTO G&G's, and much less than a pair of bespoke or even Optimum G&G. Given Carmina's general quality, that's hard to pass up. Really curious to see your finished shoes.
You've been blessed with working with Carmina herself in Manhattan. I had that opportunity once myself. She really is amazing, knows her product, and wants to work with the customer. There's always been a drop off when she's not there. I don't have that issue with Simon or Rico at G&G when Tony or Dean aren't around. More an observation than a criticism, but it has been real to me. I have an amazing pair of Carmina cap toes that were apparently made just for the Madison store, suggested to me by the manager at the time, and a complete mystery to everyone currently working there. About 18 months later. That really shouldn't happen.
I don't think we can call this bespoke honestly, that is just false advertisement in my book like many companies call their MtM operation bespoke tailoring.
Compared to the kind of G&G of course these prices seem good but compare it to e.g. Vass handwelted with adjusted lasts, Saint Crispin's with bespoke lasts, shoemakers in Italy... it seems rather bad value for a factory shoe. The upcharge for the last making is around 1000$. (At least.) Maftei for example produces handwelted bespoke shoes (including the last) from 1000€. If we are talking about value the Carmina offer is not that good. But design wise if you love Carmina then this is a very special way to get shoes from them with your own personal fit. And in the end only you can say if this is something you wish to spend your money on.
I think they are trialing this process for now but what would be really good value, and I guess they will probably do this at some point, is if you only paid for the last once and then you could use it for multiple pairs of shoes for a small upcharge after that. But I don't see any mention of that on their website.
I enjoyed this video
Is it possible to have the scans done to determine what size would be best for you to order made to measure? Id gladly pay to get scanned to know what actual size to order.
Hi Kirby. Love the content. Be great if you could let viewers know when you are I London next. It would be a privilege to share a cigar with you! Keep up the old ways and need for true quality.
I went to both New York Stores this week (first week of March) it looks like the scanner is no longer in the US.
Hm haven't seen this scanner before. I find it interesting where I could get 95% of the same data from the aetrex scanner at a fraction of the cost and it gives me pressure as well. Stl file quick and easy. This is quite interesting.
Hello, how did these turn out in the end?
I've been breaking in my Carmina's and just this evening I noticed that they're starting to fit my feet almost perfectly. So in your opinion which is really better: a shoe you that broke-in to your feet over time or a bespoke shoe?
I just bought my first pair of Carmina shoes in Barcelona last week. The salesperson was telling me about this option, and he said it would run around $1,000 or so? Can I ask What the average price on these will be? Being in my 40s now and having suffered plantar, fasciitis and gout in the past, I've decided not to cheap out on my footwear. I would gladly pay more for a shoe that will last and feel great all day and night if it helps me prevent from having those painful days where I can't even walk. I love my carmina shoes.
$1600.00 starting in new york city location. I saw it on carmina website
Hello Kirby, wouldn't it be better to do this with socks on so the toes stay together? As done for fittings in most bespoke shoe making. Or does that mess with the machine? Looking forward to part 2. I hope you can compare what's different with this from a standard size on the same last. And visually point put the differences. Thank you.
Nice .. couldn't help but notice.. Carmina really needs some Rubber stoppers on that foot rest... 😊
I was wondering if they let you try this! Let's see how it turned out.
And that's how Kirby ended up on feet finder 😅
On what? 👀
on what??
on what??
On what??
I was wondering when this would happen. Watching Tony Gaziano do it by hand is mesmerizing, but technology marches on.
It would be interesting to explore this option at some point. I don’t agree with some of the comments under this video that suggest this technology would replace artisan bespoke shoemakers. Not so much because the fit would be worse, but because people go to artisan tailors/shoemakers/shirtmakers/sword smiths/whatever for the artisan experience and a particular style as much as they do for fit. It might be an ideal option for some people, but the same can be said for ready-to-wear, made-to-order, made-to-measure, etc, in tailoring as well as shoemaking. Bespoke is a niche thing already, I don’t think this offering will change much, other than make the initial foray into bespoke more accessible.
How much will the scanner be in Manhattan?
After that scan i was expecting some 3d printing...))
I just got My brass toe mirror shined oxfords!👞
Kirby, I would love to see you go into way more depth on this lifestyle. I want to do this but don't know good brand names, types of shoes, or even what to look for. It would also be great if you could show some ways of doing it in an affordable way. That way we can get started and grow from there.
When you surprised Eddie with his bespoke suit, Simon mentioned the 5 suits everyone should own. What are those, and why.
If information isn’t forthcoming here, ask a/your tailor. A lot will depend on your lifestyle. Do you need a city suit for work or do you just like a suit when you go out for dinner. How formal is the dinner, lounge suit or full dinner (then black tie white). What climate do you live in. Are you likely to be out hunting. A morning suit for a formal wedding. Country tweeds. Non matching trousers and jacket. Are you a safe grey or bright check sort of person. Do you want a single or double breasted jacket. Wool, cotton, moleskin, corduroy, wool mix. 2 or 3 piece. That’s why you know more about what you need than someone else!
You need to listen to SartorialTalks on here. He's great. Personally, I think that you can go far with buying used suits on Ebay, being serious about your body shape and spending EXTRA but not lots on shoes. Lots of people notice good shoes, women especially. Can't go wrong with Oxfords in black or a rich dark brown etc. Wear them in and polish the hell out of them.
She is delightful!
Do they do this for boots too?
Very elegant Latina ladies!
Just like their beautifully crafted shoes!
They are from Spain
OMG! Are all the women in Mallorca this beautiful? I've got to make it a vacation destination.
Not in my experience
Ken try not to simp.
@@Mankster23😂😂😂 let him love bro
They looking so good in this video!
And you can even get nice shoes 😂🏴👍
Where can I get bespoke shoe under £1500 round Europe do you recommend any place thanks
Great ASMR
I wonder if AI model can be made to basically use your scan to create an acceptable last, maybe not bespoke levels of good but perhaps better than off-the-shelf and for a similar price.
Kirby. What is the price range on the Carmina shoes?
Anywhere from 400 to 1200 depending on the materials selected, I got my bespoke ones for 500.
You got made to order for 500, not bespoke.@@saparicio89
@@saparicio89you got custom shoes on their standard last for 500$. Those aren’t bespoke. Their bespoke program starts at 1800
I believe Carmina said that the 3D Bespoke price started at $1800 depending on the material chosen.
Right, but Kirby said $5000 is what it normally costs to get this sort of thing. Maftei is under $1500 and Materna is under $2000 for handsewn bespoke shoes.@@arthurcatalanotto1151
Every time I watch one of these custom shoe videos I thought, “they must be able to scan your foot and make a last”
17 minutes until we’re actually starting the process?😢 16:46 you’re welcome
What are the prices for shoes as mentioned in the video?
You didnt watch the video as they talk about cost of the bespoke shoes
@@mtbokor1969 I did watch the entire video but must have missed that information.
$1800 as a starting point
@@monochromebluess Thanks for your helpful answer! Watched the video again and found that I missed it.
I am going to try one of their MTOs. The last pair of European made shoes that I bought, Bostonians, I absolutely adored. They were made in Italy and were about $450 back in 2002. Obviously, they were not bespoke, but they were exceptionally well made and I loved the look, the feel and the way the wore. It was like slipping on a perfectly fitted glove. I went to buy another pair of them 2 years ago and... Made in China! I tried them on anyway and...garbage! It is so sad to see the old brands dying and the names being sold to be stamped onto cheap garbage.
you lost me at Bostonian. I view that as a Macy's brand. Not good
@mtbokor1969 I don't know about Macy's, it was 2001 and they came from Men's Wearhouse (not much better, for certain, but it was my 1st year of Law School, so I couldn't afford much and $500 was my limit) but they were good for off the shelf. They were repairable and made well.
It makes sense. 20 years ago there was no internet to buy shoes from. Mens Warehouse was and still is a great place to shop. Allen Edmonds is not the same brand it was 20 years ago. Things change.
@@johncashwell1024
Did you say “undoubtably”???
Guy is a true princess. His wife must wear the pants. I wonder if he’s ever gotten his hands dirty.
Quality, craftsmanship and tradition 😂
Quality, craftsmanship, and the latest in machine learning technology.
Using technology doesn’t change the craftsmanship. The needle, the thread, each part incorporates new technologies. So a more precise measurement is just another step forward.
@@Howard_Roark craftsmanship of last making will be lost this way, don't you agree? I am sceptical if this is as good as they say.
Now, we need 3D printed lasts
When the tech breaks forever we will need the services of manual cobblers again.
Is Carmina good compare to Crockett & John, Alden, John Lobb, Vass or Edward Green ?😮
Carmina makes awesoome goodyear welted shoes. It is a personal taste issue in terms of whose design/last fits you best. I personally do not like any of the UK based manufactures designs. I lean towards spanish makers like TLB and Carmina and some from China and Japan like Oct 10, Yearn and Ichigo Ichie.
@@mtbokor1969 you do get more bang for your buck from the Spanish makers. But some designs are timeless from the isles. If it is worth the upcharge... Not for me personally but for some it is.
Excuseme for the question ... But do you have wide feet?
Starts at $1800? That’s actually pretty good for a bespoke shoe. Much better than a full bespoke that starts at like $5000.
like so many mediocre design brand shoes easily go for more lmao
Could've previously just taken a plaster cast?
Theres going to be so many elitists that dislike that you can get a more accurate last with 3D scanning than you ever could with basic measurements
It all depends on the program that creates the last. Last making is not only about taking measurements, a good bespoke shoemaker will also note gaze and problematic areas. Shoe fit is also incredibly individual which is why a one fits all program will not work in the same way.
@@teekue what youre talking about is fine tuning a last. Im saying that the initial last which takes a 3D scan of your foot will 100 times out of 100 be a more accurate representation of the foot than a manual crafted one ever will. Its just a fact. Creating a 3D imaged last first then fine tuning it manually will be the future, except for the elitist that want to keep an outdated old tradition going
@@Masson1903 maybe it will be, but don't forget that these things cost a lot of money. Small operations will not be able to afford this, so they will stick to handwork. Scalability is key here. I have read discussions on this topic from lastmakers who said that their own measurements when compared to the 3d scans were as accurate as the scan. Don't forget that people have been saying for years that machines will take over in high end tailoring/shoemaking. And who is still on top? The ones with the most amount of handwork and experience possible.
So much for tradition
I bought 2 pairs of carmina shoes after watching this video
Damn she said a standard scan and shoe is $1800 that’s crazy my dude
Great video.😀
finally, 3d scan for a last come true.....
We'll see if it actually is good. Bespoke shoes are also very good because they are handwelted. Carmina's are not, as they explicitly stated here. You'd have to be a huge Carmina fan to prefer this over other bespoke manufacturers.
Alden, Vass, and Carmina make affordable, quality shoes.
All three make quality shoes. Affordable? Depneds on your definition. Camina has raised prices and a RTW shoe starts between $500- $700. There are some internet only brands doing hand lasted shoes for that price.
@@mtbokor1969 also Alden and affordable? 😂
Even though this is faster, I would always prefer to have a person measure my feet.
👍 👍
i have a littel shoemaker right next to my city in germany who does bespoek shoes outsorced to budapest for 1400 euros the normal way
Bad news fellas and fellettes the scanner is no longer at the Mad.Ave. locale.
They've been doing it for years for clothes. Why not shoes ?
I've been wondering how long this would take. this is like a small step in the right direction. until i can get an app on phone to export measurements.
When I see you in that cream suit all I can think is that some banana plantation in south America is missing it's boss.
I really love dress shoes, but your pinky is the reason I dont wear em :(
If you get a hand on an asthetically and also healthy pair and make a video about it i would appreciate!
How much did you pay?
Watch the video to find out the price
Given the advancements in AI and 3-D bespoke manufacturing over the last year, I wonder how long it will be until the process COULD be automated. Obviously there will always be a market for the traditionalist human made bespoke style but many of the jobs we thought were going to be out of reach of AI like creating pictures, music, and writing stories etc. were the first to see penetration and rapid advancements. Maybe taboo for this channel but one can never underestimate competition- the result is extinction.
The problem with bespoke lasts is that everyone likes their shoe fits differently. Justin Fitzpatrick talked about it in one of his videos. Americans like very spacious shoes, Europeans like a more snug fit etc
Makes me wonder if he’s been wearing shoes that are too tight based on how his little toe appears.😮
It won’t take long for the AI to replace the last makers. I am completely confident that AI will do the job better, faster, and cheaper. Right now this process seems very primitive compared to facial recognition. They still need to put markers on your feet, lol.
60's and 70' Clark's shoe shop measured feet of kids and adults with X-RAYS!!! Don't know how the staff survived.
With bare hands oh no, poor girl
The Geeks have entered the cool Bespoke world…shun them, for they are not Artisans.😂
My dentist uses a 3d scanner to measure and 3-d print crowns which is game changer for crowns.
You need to consider working in Hollywood. You really fit in spy and action movies, seriously.
Are you serious? Did you see him struggle with opening the front door to the Carmina store? Seriously!
If peewee Herman and review brahh had a baby it would be Kirby
Size 11 please. Its that simple
The major downside is the zero ASMR coefficient
Carmina Shoemaker. Could only do one job with that name
Cool technology but it seems that Kirby wore shoes without enough space for his little toe for many years. That toe looks really squished.
Lee Miller must feel so betrayed!!
No offense but when the socks came off I switched video quality to 144p lmao.
😂😂😂
Carmina you are Gorgeous, and I love your Curly hair but still I'll never buy a 5000 $ Shoe,
1st I can't afford it but if I could be, I would like to help a Needy family to make our Home or any medical Emergency and like to help a Brilliant student in its Study.
But For just covering my feet I'll never invest 5000 $.
And I also never want to go to that place where blady shoes are my Identity.
Carmina my budget is 100 $ if you have anything on that budget then I would like to visit your Butic as Mr Allison Said.
And thank you Mr. Allison for Showing us to Beautiful Miss Carmina.