How Goodyear Welted Dress Shoes are Made | Gaziano & Girling Factory Tour
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ค. 2018
- Kirby Allison, Founder of Hanger Project, headed to London and had the opportunity to tour the Gaziano & Girling Factory and see how their Goodyear Welted shoes are made. Learn the many different qualities that make Gaziano and Girling an amazing shoemaker and follow the shoemaking process with us.
Gaziano & Girling is a unique shoe company. Founded in 2006 by Tony Gaziano & Dean Girling, it has become the most innovative and versatile shoemaker in England, combining handcrafting and manufacturing skills to put itself at the top of both the bespoke and benchmade industries.
Visit their website here: www.gazianogirling.com/
#KirbyAllison #Gaziano&Girling #DressShoes
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Wow! Lots of love going into these shoes at Gaziano & Girling in the UK. Nice to see how they're made. Increases the appreciation of great quality shoes that much more.
By far the best video I've come across that explains the craftsmanship and process behind creating truly great quality men's dress shoes.
I worked in the shoe industry with Italians .its nice to see still people love the quality and handmade shoes on this days . Great 👍 job with the videos
You're producing the best content as far as bespoke product on youtube and any other platform PERIOD! thank you!
Arnold Arnoldsson Thanks! We love it and try our best. More great content forthcoming!
De
I was looking forward to this video for a very long time. Thanks for the insight, Kirby!!
What an amazing video. Thank you so much Kirby. I love your videos!
This video, and many others by Kirby have made me appreciate more and more the foot ware that I buy. Very educational, thanks as always.
Making of belt
Wonderful content. I do like this kind of factory tour. Thanks Kirby.
Amazing !!! An masterpiece
coming home after work to this. Thanks Kirby!
Just favorited this video! I absolutely love my G&G and it’s thrilling to see the place and process used to make these exquisite works of art.
Thanks! Tony and Dean are great guys and were very generous to us.
What a pleasure to see the in-depth knowledge Tony Gaziano has of the different stages to reach the final product. I've recently ordered my third pair of G & G shoes, and can only say they are unrivaled in terms of build quality and design. My best to Tony, Dean and Kirby for this fine educational video.
Wow, this man really knows his trade. Each and every single machine and process. Plus what happens in a bespoke firm and a fully automated factory.
I doubt the CEO of most shoe or clothing companies can literally operate the individual machines and know the history of them.
Sorry to be off topic but does someone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb lost my account password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me.
@Ameer Trace instablaster ;)
@Markus Jason i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Markus Jason It worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my ass :D
@Ameer Trace You are welcome xD
Kirby Allison has taken a special spirit and is reintroducing being a gentleman an important experience to every man. The head of the round table.
Fantastic video. More like this. You are awesome Kirby
So great to see the love and care going into such a beautiful peace of art!
What a great video, kudos to both guys!
Fascinating, great video.
Kirby your stuff is great, keep up with the great work!
Impressive - thank to you and G&G
Very good craftmen and craftswoman, bravo to you.
thanks for posting
Great videos, thanks
Wow! Thoroughly enjoyed watching that. Best shoe factory tour I have watched by a country mile. 👍🏻
I never said I had visited any!! I said “watched” if you are gonna be a prick, at least get you facts right!! What a nob you are!! Was you bullied at school mate? You are one of those guys who act hard when you are online!! Grow up mate and get a life!! Take care
Fabulous tour!
First class process. Thanks so much for this informative video. I was so inspired. The high school I attended in Indianapolis was the only one who had a cobbler class degree . Hind sight can see so much clearer. :) Now I am just re-newing Allen Edmonds and Vtg. Florsheim Imperials etc. Enjoy the Hanger Project.
Thanks for sharing this images
The best shop for shoes in the world these boys.
Great work
Wonderful, just a wonderful channel !!
Love the new hair Kirby
Great video. Been wanting to see the G&G operations and factory for awhile now. This is exactly what I was hoping for.
Great! Glad you enjoyed it!
Amazing craftsmanship! Now I need to order a pair from this amazing shop. :)
Fantastic video
Good to know we can still make something decent here in the UK. Great video, I enjoyed watching this.
Your videos are really instrumental.
Amazing content and amazing craftsmanship what I love to see. A video about blake and blake rapid would be incredible also. Thanks a lot!
Sávolyi Bence Yes! Would be a great video. We’ll for sure film it one day.
great video Kirby
I know Kirby is 'kind of a big deal' on youtube but still, incredibly generous of these guys to let you snoop around.
What an excellent video it it….!!!!
4:18 whoever put the whale sticker on the royal perforator, god bless their little heart
COOL! I am going to check where G & G's are sold in LA. Got my John Lobbs and St Crispin's are next the G& G 's?
I hope that this kind of process is never lost. I appreciate you bringing this to the tube so I can better understand how quality shoes are made. Nike's are nice but fleeting and generally ridiculous. I would literally cry if I couldn't buy a well-constructed leather sole shoe by a skilled craftsperson. Again, I hope I expire before this becomes a lost art.
Really good video!
Seriously. I need to get a pair of these shoes.
Excelente.
Great video - in my opinion G & G are the foremost upmarket shoe manufacturers selling in London right now (have bought John Lobb bespoke and RTW Crockett & Jones but not yet tried Cleverleys). G & G have given both to their RTW and bespoke ranges a degree of elegance and superior quality for men’s business shoes that the others need to catch up with. I’ve just ordered my first pair of G & G bespoke and the care and far greater number of measurements (plus inclusion of a trial shoe to see how your foot affects wear) put my John Lobb (one set of measurements, old fashioned sole appearance, no intermediate fitting, result was a rather unsatisfactory fit for the high price) to shame. G & G also include shoe trees in their RTW and bespoke price, whereas John Lobb charge a staggering £760 extra!
Bespoken shoes are usually always made by a different workers, even the last can be the same, but the end product feels different. The amount of glue for the heel-counter and the toe stiffener can made the shoe comfortable or stone hard and uncomfortable, also the back and the side height can hurt the feet when the shoemaker has not enough knowledge about lasting. Bespoken shoes is a art to do, but the workers salaries are terrible low and the
old experienced shoemakers are no more they died and with them also theirs skills have been taken into the graveyards.
I’ve tried one of G&G loafers in the shop, it is definitely the best ready to wear shoes in the world. The fit & finish is superior even compared to some bespoke shoe makers.
They're pretty exceptional... but one really does have to see/wear the shoe to fully understand the difference. After I purchased my first pair of G&G's, they basically ruined everything else in my closet...
The Hanger Project thanks Kirby, for your dedication creating content alike. I’m always looking forward to see new videos from your channel 👍🏼
Excellent content. The amount of hand touching on each shoe was impressive.
TONY GAZIANO IS THE LEGENDARY LAST MAKER OF THE WHOLE WORLD.
Crocket and Jones factory tour is also good to watch .
Absolutely fascinating to see the time, skill and effort that goes into making a quality pair of shoes. The feel good factor from wearing a pair of shoes like this must be up there with the best. Unless you have seen that, you'd never guess the work that has went into a making a pair of shoes by hand with a little help from machines. I found it rather odd that there isn't a manufacturer to produce a blade for the clicking process and I now know why it is called that. Goodyear welt. Is that anything to do with Goodyear tyres (tires!) I wonder? Many Thanks Kirby, for another superb video.
Great video. Subscriber from Saudi Arabia :D
Wow! Simply amazing G&G factory video! I've had the pleasure of connecting with Tony by email via Hugo Jacomet about the "Holden" model. This video gives a clearer understanding of the hand work and craftsmanship that goes into making G&G shoes! Thanks!
Checkout Antonio Maccariello shoes real nice . Great video as always 👌🏼
Indeed
The shoes of Antonio are some of the finest works in shoe making world , no disrespect to the great artistry and beauty of G & G shoes.
Hi Kirby, great video. Liked the music in this video. Tell who the performer is. Thank you.
All the best quality products made these days, are made with old school machines and by hand.
The last hundred years have been pretty much needless, eh?
I live in Northampton, love the shoe makers here. Yet to afford a pair of these, I'm Loakes and Barkers generally.
Both great shoes!
Love the new intro music, I suspect it is to honor the Italian culture. Love the videos as always :-)
Never mind, just learned they are a British company :-)
Haha. Our music is just generic stuff we license. Nothing special. But thanks! We try our best with what we have access to!
I have multiple pairs of Gaziano & Girling shoes. The quality is off the chart and they’re as comfortable as slippers. Great video Kirby
Thanks for another excellent video, Kirby! Are those G&G's Hayes model on your desk at 0:47? What a lovely pair of shoes! As a sidebar, the creasing you have on the vamp, is that because the shoe has more volume than your foot does (i.e., the shoe is a little big for you) or because it is simply an artifact of the leather type (i.e., leathers, even the quality ones G&G uses, crease)?
Dear Kirby, this is by far the best (shoe) factory visit video on TH-cam, believe me I’ve looked. Production quality is top-notch, thanks for that. Since you’ve visited both, Cleverly and G&G, do you think there’s a difference in quality when it comes to their respective RTW lines? Best from Germany.
Thanks! I'd say that Cleverley and G&G are pretty comparable. Both are making absolutely incredible shoes.
Great! Now I have to buy a pair of G & G's
Kirby,
You should check out undandy custom shoes.
The bespoke shoes you show are formed specific to your foot anatomy. But they lack the ability to customize any parts of the shoe. At undandy, you can do a full customization on a pair of dress shoes (oxfords, loafers, derby’s, monk strap, boots) for around 200$. From the vide, you mentioned you spent over 2 thousand dollars on 1 pair of dress shoes. A video of you reviewing undandys inexspensive bespoke alternative shoes would be a cool idea for a video.
Great video by the way Kirby,
Undandy isn't bespoke. They are made to order. Bespoke shoes are designed for your unique foot whereas Undandy's made to order program is limited to basic off the rack sizing.
nice
They are reasonably priced as well. Consider if you can make these last for 20 years ore more and you pick it up for $800 that’s only $40 per year!! If you are a person who looks after their shoe that is a steal for near bespoke quality.
I have two GG shoes. One is bespoke which was made by Tony when he was just beginning to start his company and a MTO I bought thru Suitable Wardrobe.
Harry - thank you for sharing! You have two incredible pieces -- I wouldn't let go from them, especially the pair made by Tony himself!!
quel beau métier
Great video, though I was surprised also by the sole gluing...wondering about the differences between the G&G RTW lasts. Do the different lasts have different shapes to fit feet with specific foot shapes (like C&J) or are they basically the same foot shape with just different toe shapes? Also, since the soles look so damn beautifully hand finished with expert craftmanship, it feels a shame to scuff them up by wearing them outdoors...
Wish I could find a discount code for some RTW GG. I’m looking to pick up a pair of the black Sinatra’s to wear at my wedding with a midnight blue bespoke tuxedo
Loved seeing channeling on the side rather than straight down. Regarding the polishing and finish how do you feel about sanding the leather to get dye to penetrate? I work in bespoke boot making and the first time I saw someone sanding the grain I felt very scared. Was wondering if it was a usual thing.
Cel Gar Totally agree.
The old way, yes it is correct sanding the outsole and then hot ironing, waxing and polishing
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Hi kirBy, great video. By the way.. After that tour did they give you a new free shoes? XD
Hello Kirby -- I wanted to say that your videos have inspired me to buy quality dress shoes and take care of them with routine shoe polishing and maintenance. So, thank you for the content you provide. I had a general question. I've sort of gone deep into the rabbit hole of buying shoes and I have many pairs that I really enjoy. What's your philosophy or practical approach to rotating through your multiple pairs of shoes? Do you feel as though you neglect any? Thanks again.
Congratulations! And thank you for your comment, Jigar! You'll always neglect a few pairs... when it comes to rotation, I just try to make sure I don't wear any one pair more than two days in a row. As long as you are storing your shoes with shoe trees at night, you can easily get away with wearing the same pair two or three days in a rwo, like while traveling for work. But, generally, if it can be avoided, I try to not wear a pair more than twice a week. This forces a healthy rotation.
@jigar Patel in your country, in Gujrat do you even have shoes! Isn't it all Bata Chappal!!! ;-)
No rotation for you laddie!! You will wear one pair everyday in the corner shop work place till they collapse!!
Hehhehehehe
;-)
do all their ready to wear shoes use a Curst leather that is then hand painted? or only their bespoke shoes? I have a pair of their Burham boots in brown.. are those crust leather?
Do these guys have a factory shop , there at the plant in Northampton ?
I don't believe they have a factory shop, but if in London, you should definitely check out their shop on Savile Row.
I need to make clicker blades. what type of hack saw blade is used?
Have Loake and Crockett & Jones
next will be this G&G
These are fantastic shoes you can wear them with a. 50 buck jeans and still carry it
Hi Kirby,
It's a lovely video indeed.
I notice that many English shoemakers (even for brands as expensive as GG and EG) use Goodyear welted instead of hand welted. I've heard that the gemming used in the sole will undermine the longevity of the shoes and once the gemming is broken, it cannot be repaired. Have you got any experience with a failure of the gemming?
Wongheichi - What do GG & EG stand for please?
Jamie Shannon They're Gaziano & Girling and Edward Green
Every factory has repairs coming back to them for a resole, the rib is always intact as it was the day it was made, even in 25 year old pairs, even if it gets damaged stripping it down, it gets replaced, its simple. Somebody lied to you.
when Tony was talking about corking, 12:40 to 13:05, he mentioned adding a wooden shank, and a fiddle for shape.
what is a fiddle?
Richard Yao The fiddle is the effect that makes the bottom of the shoe come to a point at the waist, vs a standard flat waist. One of the many hallmarks of a G&G.
Thank you, Kirby, how do they create the fiddle effect? I was confused because Tony said in that void, we put a wooden shank and a fiddle, it sounds like a fiddle is a phyical thing, at 13:00.
query...does leather loose quality if it is not used and kept idle for 5-6 months?
So the main difference between RtW and their bespoke shoes in terms of construction (not counting the last making) is the welting where RtW is Goodyear and bespoke is hand welted?
rob fong This is probably the single most significant difference, but it would be incorrect to simplify it down to just this element. Bespoke is a totally different product and experience. For starters, all bespoke shoes are built on a customized wooden last that allows for a level of comfort and fit not possible even with the best RTW. And although construction is similar - they’re both shoes - the fact a GG Bespoke shoe is made entirely by one or two people allows for a level of fit and finish even above GG RTW (which is saying a lot because GG has an incredible finish).
I wear a size 14 and wish they made mens heels more like a low cut western boot. I wish they had something custom like this in Chicago so I could get a properly arched shoe. Not enough bespoke anything left in the world.
When will you be visiting Jan Kielman?
Try to keep much more eye contact with your subjects. It's very telling.
The Owner said that they are NOT bespoke.!! They are close but no cigar. The shoe is very nice.
The insole is incorrect set up for a original bespoken shoe and the goodyear welt is not stitched by hand as well the heel is not build up layer by layer the traditional way. But the finish Shoes are OK and acceptable.
I thought 'bespoke' meant custom made (after a customers request)?
Guess what he means is 'bespoke-style' but ready to wear?
Yeah. Basically very small differences between this ready to wear and what you get when ordering full bespoke. Reflects in the price heh.
I'm guessing he meant the way the shoe was made (techniques, materials, craftsmanship). The only thing different would be how the shoe fit (no custom fitting).
I want to open unit in Sialkot Pakistan !
More better 💪
Isn’t there a company that makes blades for cutting leathers?
8:18 Their staff should wear their shoes :)
Doubt they can afford them!
18:07 the painter was he not on WC?
Is that a cheeky box of KP dry roasted peanuts in the clicking room?
Idk, for the same price I can get a handmade pair of shoes from my local shoemaker here in Germany that went exclusively through his hands and not through a factory.
There are some great independent bespoke shoemakers from whom, no doubt, you can get an incredible deal! I'd do it! Post some pictures and tag us. Would love to see the shoes.
May i ask the cost that your shoemaker charges?
No way, the German bespoken shoes Goodyear welted are about 3000 Euro, under this price forget it, the
quality will be just soso
@@peterj.9360 they use wooden shanks which are honestly junk. Go Steel or if people are sensitive about airport security, use a composite shank.
@@Bouzoukiellas never
happen
the Germans using ripped
steal shanks very wide
wood maybe for
children sandals
A well developed body looks good in almost everything :> Think about that.
Including athleisure? 🙄
Not gonna lie i went from skinny with style to fat and just looking like i try to hard
The welt is SEWN to the shoe. One thread. The sole is later STITCHED to the welt. Stitching has two threads (not one)
Kirby I have a question. Since the canvas rib is GLUED on the insole, the good-year welted shoe is basically a glued shoe because if the canvas rib comes apart from the insole, you could basically take the shoe apart right? I mean, nothing will hold the shoe together anymore, where with a handwelted shoe the welt is realy stitched to the insole, which can offcourse not come apart unless the stitch brakes. Am I right? would love to hear from you! all the best from the Netherlands!
mike Reuvekamp You are certainly not wrong! It is surprising when you think of that way... although there is a lot of sticking involved, it is basically a glued shoe. That said, I’ve never heard of a rib failing since it is so protected. And the upper is still sewn to the welt and interlining, so even if the rib did come unglued from the insole, the shoe wouldn’t fall apart.
No it wouldnt! Think about it, the upper and lining are stitched to the welt, the welt is stitched to the sole, the rib only serves as a temporary fix for the upper until welting. Besides, that glue is hardcore, the stitching will go before the glue does.
You are right in some way, only that the welt is not stitched to the insole, like a hand welted shoe. Yes off course the glue will last for a long time and most of the time the canvas rib is still perfect with 10 year old shoes. However, if the glue would let go you could in theory take the insole out. Now some shoemakers like Stefano Bemer RTW actualy hand welt the welt to the insole, and stitch the welt to the outsole. Don’t get me wrong I understand what you are saying!
mike Reuvekamp , you could not remove the insole, youre welcome to try. The seat is nailed to it, the sole is nailed to it too, if you saw every operation you would know.
Greg O'Connell I’ve never heard of the rib coming unglued. It’s really more about the spacing it creates between the insole and the outsole.
No other shoe for me. Ever. Um..how much? Ok, so maybe no other shoe ever for me from the time I save enough to buy a pair!
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