How To Install a Dirt Bike Crankshaft using the Tusk Crank Puller/Installer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- Shop Now: Tusk Crankshaft Puller
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The Tusk Crankshaft Puller / Installer Tool is a must have for any mechanic, weekend warrior or DIY'er. If you enjoy working on your motorcycle or ATV and saving money, this tool is a must for assembling vertically split crankcases. The Tusk Crank Puller safely and easily pulls the crank assembly into crankcase. It is made of a heavy-duty steel construction and can adapt to just about any crankshaft using the included male and female M10x1.25mm and M12x1.25mm adaptors to attach to the crank assembly.
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Not sure why people 'disapprove' this. It works great. Just did my YZ250. Was not very difficult.
Becusee it doesn’t come with the right size bolts. At least not for my yz 125
This video helped me so much. And relieved a lot of stress, bought the tool and it made my life so much easier. Thank you.
Great Video! I'm dissembling my 08 CRF250R now for a complete engine rebuild. Couldn't do it without RM!
Nice work. We're happy to help. Let us know if ya run into any questions along the way! Thanks
@@rmatvmc what grease do use ?
Great tool. I watched this video,then did my crank in 5 minutes.
Awesome demo! I love the tech tips you guys give, really makes working on your bike a breeze.
Tool was totally worth it! Great instruction video helped with the project as well.
Glad it helped! Thanks for checking out the video.
Thanks for the info. Looks like I'm getting that sucker
Used the tool, but the included bolts don’t have a big enough area for the collar to evenly hold onto. Feel like they needed washers to keep the pressure even against the bolt head and not round them off?
Building up to using this tool for the first time and even with the collar removed, it's 1mm too big in diameter to fit through the crank seal aperture on my Yamaha DT125R cases which means it can't push on the inner race of the main bearing to avoid transmitting a side load through the ballrace. Possibly I could smash up one of the old main bearings to get the inner race out, put that on top of the new main bearing so it's proud of the case, then use the puller on that so the force is only being transmitted through the inner race of the new main bearing. Ball bearing races don't like side loadings. Hope someone at RM can help
Did you try the rods?
@@troybrown6218 The load path through the bearing will be the same even if you use the rods as shown. Eventually I had an adapter made to press on the inner race as you do up the nut. Local machine shop did it for cheap once I did some measuring and supplied a drawing
That was my first thought when he was setting up the tool.
I think I have the same problem. Trying to set both cases in together. Crank is already pulled in one case. Trying to pull the crank thru the other side of the crank( the one with ridges at the end of the crank shaft). The hex bushing keeps coming right off since there’s nothing keeping it tension. On the other side it had the female adapter to make it easy
Can you explain why you opted to use the bars instead resting the tool on the inner race? Just thinking about it, it seems like the bearing is being subjected to a lot of axial force that will most likely damage or at the very least reduce service life.
I was thinking the same thing. Also the flex you are putting on the case half isn't ideal. I would say push right against that inner race unless it's just absolutely is not an option.
@@joshmx28 +1 - definitely pull against the inner race. Then there is zero load on the bearings, no risk of damaging a brand new bearing before you even close up the case!
Yes I agree. Possibly you could smash up one of the old main bearings to get the inner race out, put that on top of the new main bearing so it's proud of the case, then use the puller on that so the force is only being transmitted through the inner race of the new main bearing. Ball bearing races don't like side loadings, it reduces their service life as you say
Big Tip: Add a G-clamp on the front motor mount, to keep the crank cases parallel. Make it SO much easier, and you dont need a hammer.
Sir, could you please share a image link for this .. Not getting the idea here
Should we lightly oil the crankshaft or bearing inner race?
Yeah, approved 🤘
Very easy to follow video. Thanks!!
"Oh shit I forgot the crankcase seals!"
What about head-spacing the crank?
I bought the tool and the c clip kit for my son’s KX 65. The c clip is too large for the 65 crank. Is there a kit with smaller ones in it??
Purchased!
I am having a problem with my LT250r bottom end. When i install the second case the crank falls out of the first case. I think its the original crank. and the cases then don't fit together tightly. i was thinking the Bearing surface is a little worn out. thoughts?
did u ever figure out the issue? dealing with this bullshit rn
spun bearings.
No flange sealant between the cases?. Probably for the video not. But great tool to have it.
At 6:58 he states that both halves have liquid gasket applied
Helped me a great deal this. Although in the uk I couldn’t find any tusk tools. So had to buy another brand that didn’t come with the bars.
You can buy the 3/8 key stock locally in the UK for sure.
What tool did you go for?
I tried using this tool and it just spins the crank and doesn’t pull the cases together.
great tool! Did you use the 12 or 10 mm bolt in crankshaft when you pulled it thru.
I have this tool and im not sure how to do this on my KX 65
Doing my first engine build 87 kx 250 flywheel side is 8mm bolt other side I need the c clip adaptor will it fit my bike
What about my xv1000 with a M16 x 1.25 crank thread?
so help fol
Great video
Very informative video. Unfortunately, I bought this for my 66cc 2 stroke and all of the adapters are too large for my crank shaft. Tusk couldn't have included some some smaller adapters???
I am doing one right now and what I did was I used the nut that goes on that side, it did not fit in the case you put first , and bought another one and grind out parts of nut to make it fit in. Good luck
That's what's up !!! I new you were probably working on it still just like me I have opened and closed that 65 motor about 6 times in 2 days , when I closed the case the rod didn't move smoothly and I saw a bearing out of place not all the way in put it where it should have been and the main (bearing came out with the rod ) now I need to buy a bearing splitter because is not even 1/6" opening in the back so there is no other solution I tried to fabricate a "home made tool" I tough it would work bit i ended up damaging the bearing a bit now its back to square one and a 2 week wait to get the bearings and tools to finish this , I. Not a mechanic a know some 2 stroke engines , not looking forward to 4 strokes ,too much money ... I had enough with 50 ,65 ktms and 85 kx , 9m glad I could give you a tip that worked ,if you have a tip for my problem ,your more that welcome 🙏 to help... be safe out there riding we can't afford to go to the hospitals , my little one broke his left arm yesterday they took the cast out and I'm getting his bike ready to race for when his ready to ride again. Bike dialed backyard track prime...
@ yes you'll end up whit 3 motor cases whiteout including your clutch cover and stator cover, and that's exactly the tools I bought, now I need a bearing separator because I took it out because one bearing was a bit of and the bearing stuck to the crank and I can't, not supposed to pull the crank in the case whit the bearing on the crank it should be on the case sitting flush on the case, that's another tool I need hopefully you don't do the same mistake , install the bearings in the case first then pull the crank in from bought sides and your seals come in from the outside so you can keep them safe until your case is closed
I used the flat part of the crank puller but they are goin in very easily with a bit of heat in the case.
@ not recommending, but I use a benzomatic .
Had to hammer it in on one of the side and now main bearing have a lot of play in it and the crank didn't even made it all the way in. You think this still good to use?
What a stupid question
Bonjour
Je veux bien acheter des outils chez vous mais les frais de ports me coûte plus que les outils donc pour le moment,j attend. J habite en France
Je suis désolé d'entendre ça. À la vôtre!
Why the new build leaking oil ?
Yfz450 it's the same? Or do i have to head up the bearing
Isn't that pulling on the center of the bearing?
no its pulling on the ball bearings, not a good design
Center gasket??
What are the internal diameters of the main collet ?
Where's the steel rods? The didn't come with the tool... and you can't find them anywhere on your website.
The steel rods come with the tool. If you had problems not receiving parts give us a call at 1-800-336-5437 and we'll get you taken care of.
Will this tool work on scooter from the Philippines let me know thanks
Gotta be a lil more specific than “scooter from Philippines”
Will this work on 1990 ktm 250
No stress on the rod but now youre bearings are forced into the casing!! no need tot freeze anything.. Lesson 1 from the mechanical engineer : Heat up youre casings, no tools, no stress.
How long would you heat the casings for? Would you use a heat gun or blow torch?
@@scott2495 heat gun 🔫 is a little slower but much preferred than a torch. A lot less chance of overheating.
Do i need that c clip thing for a kx250f or only the kx250 2 stroke needs that ?
The C-clip Adaptor is only required for 2 stroke KX models.
Could u use this to install crank bearings aswell?
Put case in oven to heat up... put bearings in freezer. Then the bearings will just drop in.
Doesn't work for the DS 650...
can we hammer one piece forged crank t install it in the crank case??
Naved any luck lol I’m about to do that
@@PIZZAMANGAMING ...finally after 2 years....thanks for the reply bro✌
Why can't you just use a large washer and a nut?
This tool ensures that you're applying even pressure to the crank (using the steel bars shown at 5:00) which is important for proper crank installation. Plus, this tool comes with multiple different adaptors so it can be used on a variety of engines.
8:30 or remember the gasket🧐
He used silicone. You can see it squish out.
CAN YOU USE THIS TOOL ON SCOOTER
Yes you can it's the exact same tool. Depending on where you get it, it may have different attachments. But they are all the same.... Tusk, motion pro and Buzzetti are all the same but prices do vary. motion pro and Tusk being the most expensive. Go with Buzzetti. In my opinion they are the best and not over priced. Also if you live in England or UK Buzzetti is kinda the only option as the other ones are made for the American Market.
CAN YOU USE IT ON ASINE SCOOTER FROM THE PHLLPINES LET ME KNOW THANK
@@smileyrod11 yes you can must make sure you buy the one that will fit your crank shaft. Some come with 10mm and 12mm attachments. You can also get a 10mm and 14mm attachments. Just make sure you get the right one
THANK BRO
@@smileyrod11 www.racing-planet.co.uk/crankshaft-installation-crank-puller-installer-buzzetti-p-165703-1.html or www.pedparts.co.uk/product/964/buzzetti-crankshaft-installation-tool
Crap tool. It should be using the inner race to push up against... so that there’s zero axial/thrust load on the bearings!
You know of a better tool?
Yes I agree. Possibly you could smash up one of the old main bearings to get the inner race out, put that on top of the new main bearing so it's proud of the case, then use the puller on that so the force is only being transmitted through the inner race of the new main bearing. Ball bearing races don't like side loadings, it reduces their service life as you say
Patika
The design isnt good, you are forcing on the ball bearing, expecialy the balls, wich leaves a mark on the race and damage your new bearing. You should pull on the crank while the tool is pulling on the inner race
Agreed! Possibly smash up one of the old main bearings to get the inner race out, put that on top of the new main bearing so it's proud of the case, then use the puller on that so the force is only being transmitted through the inner race of the new main bearing. Ball bearing races don't like side loadings as you say
Steel rods against aluminium ??? No thanks !!!
masking tape? I was thinking the same thing
Or a piece of alloy.