Invest in the best and achieve outstanding results with our top-rated products and durable tools, all just a click away. www.rockymountainatvmc.com/Sales/2118/How-To-Set-Sag-On-A-Dirt-Bike?
When making adjustments it is a good idea to have the rear wheel off the ground, doing this takes some of the spring pressure off the preload adjusters which makes them easier to turn
@@rcranch3838 forgot to mention use a air compressor on the threads to blow out any dirt i learned that the hard way one time 😅🤦🏻♂️ then lube the shit outta the threads when you’re done (you’ll thank yourself when you have to do it again)
I loved this. I am a suspension tech for a living....I couldn't find a single thing wrong with this video. So, what I'd like to know is...Why the 91 thumbs down??...Hmmm.
Absolutely great video dude! very in depth, gets straight to the point and makes it as simple as It can be. Keep it up guys! I watch this Channel quite a lot and I’m refreshing my mind a lot on these vids as I haven’t ridden dirt bikes in years! ❤️
Great vid on Sag! Can you make a vid on how to choose the right shock spring for your weight? And a vid for fork spring spring for your weight? You guys are awesome! My riding has greatly improved from your vids! Bike set up is HUGE important regardless of riding level! Thank you!
Love the video, wish you had a shop closer to where I live. Took my newly acquired "mint" 85 XR350R to my local shop to setup up suspension for me. They told me to drop off and pick up at certain times. Told me I didn't need to be there or even ask me my weight. No thanks..
On KTM's just loosen that bolt and use a preload tool like the ohlins one that old KTM's used to come with. I have a few laying around from old bikes that finally came in handy! Thanks for all these videos and info, you guys rock!
Setting the sag with a new bike after brake in are i very importent. I didnt know that and my static sag (on the stand) was way wrong , i needed to tighten the spring 2 full turns in and it was a different bike to sitt on after that , way higher in the rear , and the shock suddenly started to absorbe the bumps.. Big big differens.
I do this alone..I have a Honda crf460l.....Made a measuring tool with a wooden ruler and an aluminum one..Slotted the wooden ruler and drilled two holes in the aluminum ruler..you can figure out where easily yourself ,each bike is different..use two carriage bolts (1/4) washers and wings nuts..lube it well......Used the longer rack bolt (which is where honda manual says is the point to measure from) for the top and a bolt with tape wrapped around it to fit inside the hollow axle(manual says at the lock nut at the adjuster ,not enough different to matter 1/8?) notch/slot the top and bottom of your new ruler to sit on the bolts..hook it on the bolts and lightly tighten-so they slip easily but not drop.....sit it in on a stand to measure the longest dimension..then take the bike and lean the bar end against a wall or in my case snap-on tool boxes sit on the bike ,the ruler will compress in length..bounce on it a bit and let it settle....reach back and tighten the wing nuts. Get off the bike and put on side stand..now you have the longest and shortest.. dimensions and can adjust accordingly....cost...less than $5 and 1 hour labor..A note...You will get different dimensions each time you measure...sometimes as much as 1/2” ..being as consistent as you can will help ,but it wont make the numbers Exactly the same each time...if Im within 1/8” I think Im good..
Throw the measuring stick in the garbage. Every time you adjust your spring pre-load make a lap or two. Keep doing this until you find the setting that feels best to you. Assuming that 100mm is the magic setting for everyone & every bike is BS. If you just set your bike at 100mm and don't experiment, you may be missing out on something much better. Kind of like marrying the first girl that comes along.
There is no sag setting on forks. That's more in line with setting up your front and rear suspension to match. For you weight and riding style. Sag is important because if you can't reach the proper numbers for race sag and static sag you need to change your spring rates, softer or stiffer shock spring. Suspension balance is something you have to figure out what you like. You should also set all your front and rear suspension adjusters to the "normal" settings as per your manual before setting sag. Set your clickers to normal and then work from there on compression and rebound, slow and fast.
Why do I always listen people on USA and Canada saying HUSQ-KA-VAR-NA? It’s just HUSQ-VAR-NA! Plain and simple. Just 3 syllables people not 4. Very good video and well explain
As far as steering characteristics you should raise or lower the forks in the triple clamps. Set rear sag for your rear suspension preference. BTW too much sag can make the linkage progression ramp up quicker and result in a harsher ride so start with factory recommendations for static sag and consider changing spring rates if your rider sag is out of spec. and then make minor tweaks to get it were it feels right for you.
If my bike is big for me, I can only get a Little bit of one foot on the ground and I am light, is I set it to the recommendation would it lower the bike and make it easy for me to touch the ground?
Can of worms here. Nope, no sag setting in the forks. Clickers springs and oil all can be adjusted to balance both from the rear suspicion. They need to be balanced so they work together. You'll hear riders say the like their front suspicion to ride higher in it's stroke. This is changed with springs, oil and or air. A personal preference. You do not want your forks being to soft so they dive under breaking to much. Again, totally a personal thing how you set it all up. Start with all your stock settings and work from there. If everything is to soft then your need to change spring rates front and rear.
I noticed your blue ruler isn't perfectly vertical, does it not have to be? Seems it would make a difference. Also is there a specific spot on the fender to measure at? I think KTM actually has a designated spot (mark) on the fender, but what of those that do not?
Nick, you just want to make sure that your measuring point on the fender follows the arc of the swing arm. If you're titled a little forward you'll be ok. Most importantly, you want to make sure you're consistent with where you measure each time. I recommend making a notch on your rear fender so you're always measuring the same point. - Chase
You don't need to tighten the bolt every time before you check it. Just leave the pinch bolt or locking ring loose until you've got your sag where you want it and then tighten it up-Chase
I have a 06 crf250 and I have got a screw driver and a hammer and beat the crap out of the lock nut on the rear shock and it will not budge it’s in the middle of the threads so it should have room to move a little ennything I could do??
I just overhauled the rear shock on my xr650l with a stiffer spring. Is the bike sapposed to have any sag unloaded?? After getting off and only when put on the kickstand I slowly see it rise to fully extended, the forks do not Ahhh I see 9:20 static sag
i did try it so my sag was 55.5 before and 62 without load after adjusting it did few turns out and then it went to 62.5 without load and 56.3 ?? why is that ?
I installed lowering links on my DR-Z 400 and I was wondering how to set up the rear shock with these links installed? The sag has been taken out completely and I don't know where to set the spring preload for my light weight of only 130lbs. Anyone have thoughts?
Im 5’3 145lbs,, on a 2019 yz125, barely cant touch the ground with my foot/toes so i adjust the spring higher,, do i need to do more adjustments damper etc..?
Thanks for checking out the video! Give this video a watch if you're looking for more info on your shock settings: th-cam.com/video/iiBLQPiRjRc/w-d-xo.html
One thing-you mentioned something like "the amount of sag this model calls for". In the vintage scene, Its hard to find any sort of specification. What is a good general rule of thumb for a mono shock, linkage suspension? Long and short travel twin shocks?
Chase, new rider here. How often should you check sag also, from your experience keeping all gear and body weight constant how often does it change? I was thinking about doing the Motool but idk if I can justify it for one time use. As for now I'm the only one out of my group of friends who rides so I will be doing it solo but I can bug a friend if it is one and done.
I don't check it every ride. I'd say every 4-6 rides I'll check it. It's pretty rare for your sag numbers to change from one ride to the next unless your bike is new and the suspension is breaking in. I like to check just to make sure my set up is good. But you don't need to be like the factory guys that check their sag before every ride. The Motool is nice when you're alone but as long as you have a friend to help out every once in a while then save the money and get either the Tusk or Motion pro sag scale (when they're in stock).
What bike do you have? In general, most bikes are going to be between 95-105mm of rider sag plus or minus 5mm. And that static sag (bike without the rider on) will be somewhere around 30-40mm of sag.
Hi! Thanks for great video! A question ; l'm 135lb and use kx250f, my sag is 65. I can't make sag higher because the spring level is on almost max. If l lose the screw of the spring more, the spring starts to moving and wiggling. What should l do to make sag higher? Thanks.
@@rmatvmc it's 2016. Thanks for your quick reply and interest btw! 😊 I checked the spring on my bike but there is no any sign or a model number. So l don't know what kg it is. But it's stock l guess, the color is green.
Adjusting sag doesn't lower or raise the bike. If you add sag, it will make the bike squat more when your sitting on it but adding a bunch of sag to lower a bike is not ideal. We sell Devol lowering links that are built specifically to lower a bike's seat height. www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/devol-lowering-link-p
Without making modifications, there is no way to properly lower the seat height. Usually a shorter shock or lowering link would be needed. You could also look at shaving the seat foam down.
I would check out race tech's website. They will ask you a series of questions about your skill level, type of riding, and weight and they will tell you what your spring rate is.
Thank you for the video, greatly appreciated! So from factory my 22 crf250r “static sag” is 45mm and “rider sag” is 105mm. Im a little frustrated cause I can barely tip toe the bike and I’m 5’9” tall. Not sure what to do in this situation any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!!
Is that tip toe with the 105mm of sag? If so, that is how it is. Bikes are tall. Some of the fastest Pro riders can barely touch the ground. Once you are up on the pegs, it shouldn't matter too much. It is better to have the suspension work properly.
@@rmatvmc It’s at 105mm of sag with me sitting in a neutral position while having my feet on the pegs, and being in full riding gear. Thank you for the response, figured I would ask and may get lucky, that maybe I was over looking something. As long as the bikes set up right I’m fine with that! Thanks again!
@@rmatvmc It’s at 105mm of sag with me sitting in a neutral position while having my feet on the pegs, and being in full riding gear. Thank you for the response, figured I would ask and may get lucky, that maybe I was over looking something. As long as the bikes set up right I’m fine with that! Thanks again!
Heya you can try cutting some foam out from your seat, I personally don't like the look of having a curved seat but it will lower you a bit while sitting down or you can buy a lowering link arm, they can be a little bit pricy but that could help a little bit too. Hope this helped
I’m 15 and 5,4 I got scoliosis I shouldn’t be riding but I was thinking about getting a 250 but I wanna be able to lower it as much as it can then just grow through it the seat high on these are 37in and I got kinda short legs so I was wondering how much you could sag this thanks!
You can set it and then check it again after the suspension breaks in because it will change a little. Or you can leave it for the first few rides. Up to you but I would set it first and then check it later - Chase
Yes, doing this process is adjusting the bike to your specific weight. The first measurement you take is free sag which is when the bike is unweighted on a center stand. But the second measurement is rider sag which will vary depending on how much you weight, your riding gear, and your position on the bike. You will be set if you follow the process in this video!
It won't affect the free sag (bike on the stand) but it will affect the static sag (bike on the ground with no rider). The static sag number is what will help you know if you need a lighter or heavier shock spring. There is a window that you want your static sag to be in and depending if you're over or under that window, you will want a different spring rate. - Chase
Adjusting the sag is only concerning the rear shock but it's a good idea to set your fork height correctly if you haven't yet. The fork tube height is really rider preference and most people will recommend making changes 2mm at a time and see how the bike handles. Lowering the fork tubes will create more stability at high speeds but at the cost of losing some cornering performance, while raising the tubes up in clamps puts more weight on front wheel which can increase cornering performance but also make bike less stable at high speeds.
Negative. The preload you put on the shock spring only affects when the bike is on the ground. A shock spring that doesn't have weight on it will always completely extend.
Hey guys! Great video, was wondering if you had any tips or thoughts on setting sag on a Motocross bike ('16 KX450) that is going to be converted to supermoto. Same basic procedure or should I take some different things into consideration? No jumping, just street/canyon carving for riding style.
It's the same process but I have no idea how supermoto guys like to set up their bags for sag. I'd search some forums to see what you can find. - Chase
A qiuck thought, since more sag=better high speed stability, I personally would start around 5mm more that the stock max sag and adjust from there. Example, if stock sag range is 95-100mm, try starting at 105mm.
I don't know personally. But a safe starting point is to go right in the middle. Back your clickers all the way out and then count how many clicks you have going all the way in. Find out what those numbers are and start halfway and go from there. There might also be some forums out there you could browse. - Chase
What if your rebound and compression clickers are altered from stock settings? Does that effect setting the sag? Do I need to go and get the clickers to stock first then do this or are they independent of each other? Or do you set clickers first then sag? I can't find a definitive answer anywhere...
It's wise to set your clickers all back to stock at least when you have a new bike and are breaking in your suspension. Once everything is broken in and you've tweaked all your settings to your liking it's ok to check sag without going back to standard stock settings. Your just checking spring rate really. If it's the correct spring for your weight. If it's correct your race sag and static sag numbers should be close to what you manual says. If one or the other or both are way off or you've had to make to many turn to your preload adjuster, soft or stiff and the neuters do not work out you will need to replace your shock spring, softer or harder and work the numbers again.
How did you come up with the number of 100 if your just picking a “random” spot on the fender, and you guys were under 100 so didnt you have to tighten the spring to raise the bike? You kept saying you were loosening it, which would make the bike drop down right?
I say in the video that this bike's manual calls for 100mm of sag. The spot on the fender is just for consistency so you always have the same measuring point. He was at about 96-97mm of sag which means the bike wasn't saggin enough and that is why we loosened the spring so the bike would sit a little lower (around 100mm) with the rider on the bike. - Chase
Invest in the best and achieve outstanding results with our top-rated products and durable tools, all just a click away. www.rockymountainatvmc.com/Sales/2118/How-To-Set-Sag-On-A-Dirt-Bike?
When making adjustments it is a good idea to have the rear wheel off the ground, doing this takes some of the spring pressure off the preload adjusters which makes them easier to turn
Quick tip! Usually after the lock nut is off you can grab the spring and spin it. For me it's easier than the punch. Great video!!
Wow this tip is gold.
@@rcranch3838 rubber grip gloves and some wd40 don’t get the wd on the glover or spring just the threads if possible
@@benwan5425 nice thanks man will try it next time. I have learned so much from TH-cam haha it’s awesome.
@@rcranch3838 forgot to mention use a air compressor on the threads to blow out any dirt i learned that the hard way one time 😅🤦🏻♂️ then lube the shit outta the threads when you’re done (you’ll thank yourself when you have to do it again)
a million dam suspension vids and finally one that is straight forward and simple, thanks
I loved this. I am a suspension tech for a living....I couldn't find a single thing wrong with this video. So, what I'd like to know is...Why the 91 thumbs down??...Hmmm.
They shop on motosports instead of rockymountain atv 🤣
Maybe cause of the rider looking like he wants to kill himself lol
@@bonezbeatzz2479 Gavin does not look impressed
And it’s 112 now... crazy ain’t it?
@@galuhrichata6148 now 115
A friend or two? Looks like I’m out😂
Same ha
Same here
Covid got me out lmao
Same😂
Same 🤦♂️ why does nobody have friends yet everyone wants one lol
Absolutely great video dude! very in depth, gets straight to the point and makes it as simple as It can be. Keep it up guys! I watch this Channel quite a lot and I’m refreshing my mind a lot on these vids as I haven’t ridden dirt bikes in years! ❤️
Best video yet on this subject. Excellent instructor.
Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
Great vid on Sag! Can you make a vid on how to choose the right shock spring for your weight? And a vid for fork spring spring for your weight? You guys are awesome! My riding has greatly improved from your vids! Bike set up is HUGE important regardless of riding level! Thank you!
The rocky mountain vids are so good!! Thanks guys!
Glad it helped out! Thank you for watching!
I know this is old but thanks Chase and Charles for the tip and tech information. Along with you two and my manuals, I can’t go wrong. 🤞🏻👍👊🙌🏼
Good video... YOU DID GREAT GAVIN! I loved how excited Gavin looked. 😁
Love the video, wish you had a shop closer to where I live. Took my newly acquired "mint" 85 XR350R to my local shop to setup up suspension for me. They told me to drop off and pick up at certain times. Told me I didn't need to be there or even ask me my weight. No thanks..
On KTM's just loosen that bolt and use a preload tool like the ohlins one that old KTM's used to come with. I have a few laying around from old bikes that finally came in handy! Thanks for all these videos and info, you guys rock!
Setting the sag with a new bike after brake in are i very importent. I didnt know that and my static sag (on the stand) was way wrong , i needed to tighten the spring 2 full turns in and it was a different bike to sitt on after that , way higher in the rear , and the shock suddenly started to absorbe the bumps.. Big big differens.
Glad to hear you got it all set up correctly! Makes a big difference in performance and feel. Thanks for the comment, Christer.
Am I the only one that wants an autograph from chase
Cody Jones what a dork u are.
Yes
I bought the motion pro sag 2 tool. The measuring tape can be really inconsistent. The video helped a bunch.
Glad we could help you out! I use the motool digital sag scale personally and I loved it.-Chase
I do this alone..I have a Honda crf460l.....Made a measuring tool with a wooden ruler and an aluminum one..Slotted the wooden ruler and drilled two holes in the aluminum ruler..you can figure out where easily yourself ,each bike is different..use two carriage bolts (1/4) washers and wings nuts..lube it well......Used the longer rack bolt (which is where honda manual says is the point to measure from) for the top and a bolt with tape wrapped around it to fit inside the hollow axle(manual says at the lock nut at the adjuster ,not enough different to matter 1/8?) notch/slot the top and bottom of your new ruler to sit on the bolts..hook it on the bolts and lightly tighten-so they slip easily but not drop.....sit it in on a stand to measure the longest dimension..then take the bike and lean the bar end against a wall or in my case snap-on tool boxes sit on the bike ,the ruler will compress in length..bounce on it a bit and let it settle....reach back and tighten the wing nuts. Get off the bike and put on side stand..now you have the longest and shortest.. dimensions and can adjust accordingly....cost...less than $5 and 1 hour labor..A note...You will get different dimensions each time you measure...sometimes as much as 1/2” ..being as consistent as you can will help ,but it wont make the numbers Exactly the same each time...if Im within 1/8” I think Im good..
Super helpful thank you 😊👌🏻👍
Such a good presenter 👌🏻
We appreciate your comment and glad it helped!
Thanks for checking it out!
Thanks for this. The descriptions and videography were really clear.
Throw the measuring stick in the garbage. Every time you adjust your spring pre-load make a lap or two. Keep doing this until you find the setting that feels best to you. Assuming that 100mm is the magic setting for everyone & every bike is BS. If you just set your bike at 100mm and don't experiment, you may be missing out on something much better. Kind of like marrying the first girl that comes along.
Love these videos. Keep em coming
Would you need to adjust your forks to match after adjusting your rear shock?
There is no sag setting on forks. That's more in line with setting up your front and rear suspension to match. For you weight and riding style. Sag is important because if you can't reach the proper numbers for race sag and static sag you need to change your spring rates, softer or stiffer shock spring. Suspension balance is something you have to figure out what you like. You should also set all your front and rear suspension adjusters to the "normal" settings as per your manual before setting sag. Set your clickers to normal and then work from there on compression and rebound, slow and fast.
Why do I always listen people on USA and Canada saying HUSQ-KA-VAR-NA? It’s just HUSQ-VAR-NA! Plain and simple. Just 3 syllables people not 4. Very good video and well explain
Adrian Wikander Exakt! Hur svårt kan det vara?
Idk about yall but its kinda hard for us to remove that 'ka' sound from our q's lol
@@IncryptDubstep Qs own a laughing out loud?
Damn it. Dont I feel like a dumb ass
Boss. Perfectly explained. Thanks.
If you're really want to know how to set the SAG just asked my friggin wife...
?????????
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Oooooh sna sn sn sn naaaaaap! (Oh snap)
The Seg or Sagway dirt bike.
Nice information dude
Super easy to understand! Thanks
As far as steering characteristics you should raise or lower the forks in the triple clamps. Set rear sag for your rear suspension preference. BTW too much sag can make the linkage progression ramp up quicker and result in a harsher ride so start with factory recommendations for static sag and consider changing spring rates if your rider sag is out of spec. and then make minor tweaks to get it were it feels right for you.
Good video but whatabout the front. Is it covered in another video......
I think they have other videos on that...?
Good vid, very helpful! Thanks!
Glad it helped ya out! Thanks ~Vinny
op
If my bike is big for me, I can only get a Little bit of one foot on the ground and I am light, is I set it to the recommendation would it lower the bike and make it easy for me to touch the ground?
There may also be aftermarket shortening links for your rear suspension. Check eBay.
Great video. Very well presented. Thank you.
awesome - brilliantly presented
Thanks very much 😮
Hey buddy what kind of tape measure are you using? Cuz mine measure inches.
Uhhh a metric tape measure...!
Another great info video, thank you very much again. Great info.
So well done. Thank you.
Very clear instructions - thanks.
You set the sag on the rear spring but what about the front?..Do you do anything to the front shocks or is that what your front clickers are for
Can of worms here. Nope, no sag setting in the forks. Clickers springs and oil all can be adjusted to balance both from the rear suspicion. They need to be balanced so they work together. You'll hear riders say the like their front suspicion to ride higher in it's stroke. This is changed with springs, oil and or air. A personal preference. You do not want your forks being to soft so they dive under breaking to much. Again, totally a personal thing how you set it all up. Start with all your stock settings and work from there. If everything is to soft then your need to change spring rates front and rear.
Good video. Very well explained 👍
Question: on dirty bikes the static and rider sag need to be checked/adjusted only on the rear shock? On sports bikes need also on the fork.
“Your gonna need a friend or two” clicks off video
Good video on a hard to understand topic!
Thanks dude 👍👍 very easy video to follow thank you 🤘🤘
Glad it helped!
Great Job guys!
Good job chance
I noticed your blue ruler isn't perfectly vertical, does it not have to be? Seems it would make a difference. Also is there a specific spot on the fender to measure at? I think KTM actually has a designated spot (mark) on the fender, but what of those that do not?
Nick, you just want to make sure that your measuring point on the fender follows the arc of the swing arm. If you're titled a little forward you'll be ok. Most importantly, you want to make sure you're consistent with where you measure each time. I recommend making a notch on your rear fender so you're always measuring the same point. - Chase
When you were adjusting the race sag, did you loosen then tighten the bolt until you got it the correct sag?
Thanks for the vid!
You don't need to tighten the bolt every time before you check it. Just leave the pinch bolt or locking ring loose until you've got your sag where you want it and then tighten it up-Chase
Awesome vid keep up the good work
Was this done on a 450 or 250?
2012 CRF450R
Brandon Meyer I think it’s the same for my 250.
Okay ,now i understand the sag setup lol
Is it normal for my spring to move a bunch now while on the stand??
Question when you loosen the sag does that make the bike shorter?
In theory, yes, it will make the bike sit lower. But your peg to seat height won't change.
I have a 06 crf250 and I have got a screw driver and a hammer and beat the crap out of the lock nut on the rear shock and it will not budge it’s in the middle of the threads so it should have room to move a little ennything I could do??
What is the stock rider sag for a Drz400e? The owners manual doesn't give a number and just says to take it to a shop instead 🙄
When tyou set rider sag does it change free sag?
Great help thanks
Glad it helped!
@@rmatvmc thanks
Very helpful
Great vid thank you.
Thanks for watching!
I just overhauled the rear shock on my xr650l with a stiffer spring. Is the bike sapposed to have any sag unloaded??
After getting off and only when put on the kickstand I slowly see it rise to fully extended, the forks do not
Ahhh I see 9:20 static sag
i did try it so my sag was 55.5 before and 62 without load after adjusting it did few turns out and then it went to 62.5 without load and 56.3 ?? why is that ?
What does a 2020 KLX300R call for ? Great video. 🇺🇲🤙🏼
Chancellor looks like a young Jim halpert in this video.
I installed lowering links on my DR-Z 400 and I was wondering how to set up the rear shock with these links installed? The sag has been taken out completely and I don't know where to set the spring preload for my light weight of only 130lbs. Anyone have thoughts?
Im 5’3 145lbs,, on a 2019 yz125, barely cant touch the ground with my foot/toes so i adjust the spring higher,, do i need to do more adjustments damper etc..?
Manny Cabico Jr no. U need to stop riding and go to school.
Nice clear vid .cheers .wanted to know more about the settings on my shock .
Thanks for checking out the video! Give this video a watch if you're looking for more info on your shock settings: th-cam.com/video/iiBLQPiRjRc/w-d-xo.html
One thing-you mentioned something like "the amount of sag this model calls for". In the vintage scene, Its hard to find any sort of specification. What is a good general rule of thumb for a mono shock, linkage suspension? Long and short travel twin shocks?
Chase, new rider here. How often should you check sag also, from your experience keeping all gear and body weight constant how often does it change? I was thinking about doing the Motool but idk if I can justify it for one time use.
As for now I'm the only one out of my group of friends who rides so I will be doing it solo but I can bug a friend if it is one and done.
I don't check it every ride. I'd say every 4-6 rides I'll check it. It's pretty rare for your sag numbers to change from one ride to the next unless your bike is new and the suspension is breaking in. I like to check just to make sure my set up is good. But you don't need to be like the factory guys that check their sag before every ride. The Motool is nice when you're alone but as long as you have a friend to help out every once in a while then save the money and get either the Tusk or Motion pro sag scale (when they're in stock).
Hey guys. Another great video. Just curious have you thought about making a channel dedicated to "how to" vids.
Where can we get a gavin? How do we do step 2 without gavin?!?!?
Any advice if your bike manual does not show a recommended SAG setting? Thanks..
What bike do you have? In general, most bikes are going to be between 95-105mm of rider sag plus or minus 5mm. And that static sag (bike without the rider on) will be somewhere around 30-40mm of sag.
Good video..
Glad you like it. Thanks for watching-Chase
Hi! Thanks for great video! A question ; l'm 135lb and use kx250f, my sag is 65. I can't make sag higher because the spring level is on almost max. If l lose the screw of the spring more, the spring starts to moving and wiggling. What should l do to make sag higher? Thanks.
You're going to have to go with a softer spring. What year is your KX250F? -Charles
@@rmatvmc it's 2016. Thanks for your quick reply and interest btw! 😊 I checked the spring on my bike but there is no any sign or a model number. So l don't know what kg it is. But it's stock l guess, the color is green.
What about front suspension?
A friend or two good thing I have my dad 😂
Hey so would that lower the seat hight on a brand new bike
Adjusting sag doesn't lower or raise the bike. If you add sag, it will make the bike squat more when your sitting on it but adding a bunch of sag to lower a bike is not ideal. We sell Devol lowering links that are built specifically to lower a bike's seat height.
www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/devol-lowering-link-p
Can the seat height be adjusted so that it is lower to the ground on a 1979 YAMAHA YZ250? Please help!
Without making modifications, there is no way to properly lower the seat height. Usually a shorter shock or lowering link would be needed. You could also look at shaving the seat foam down.
Great video! Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for commenting. ~Vinny
I’m looking in to buying a new spring and front forks. How do I find out my spring rate?
I would check out race tech's website. They will ask you a series of questions about your skill level, type of riding, and weight and they will tell you what your spring rate is.
My RMZ 250 has 90mm static sag. How would of this effected the handling on jump's ? Cheers Joe
Sag is extremely important. You have to get it nailed before moving onto your other suspension settings.
Does it matter what your rebound and compression settings are set at when adjusting sag? Sag first or reb/comp settings first?
Compression and rebound first
Thank you for the video, greatly appreciated! So from factory my 22 crf250r “static sag” is 45mm and “rider sag” is 105mm.
Im a little frustrated cause I can barely tip toe the bike and I’m 5’9” tall. Not sure what to do in this situation any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!!
Is that tip toe with the 105mm of sag? If so, that is how it is. Bikes are tall. Some of the fastest Pro riders can barely touch the ground. Once you are up on the pegs, it shouldn't matter too much. It is better to have the suspension work properly.
@@rmatvmc It’s at 105mm of sag with me sitting in a neutral position while having my feet on the pegs, and being in full riding gear. Thank you for the response, figured I would ask and may get lucky, that maybe I was over looking something. As long as the bikes set up right I’m fine with that! Thanks again!
@@rmatvmc It’s at 105mm of sag with me sitting in a neutral position while having my feet on the pegs, and being in full riding gear. Thank you for the response, figured I would ask and may get lucky, that maybe I was over looking something. As long as the bikes set up right I’m fine with that! Thanks again!
Heya you can try cutting some foam out from your seat, I personally don't like the look of having a curved seat but it will lower you a bit while sitting down or you can buy a lowering link arm, they can be a little bit pricy but that could help a little bit too.
Hope this helped
I’m 15 and 5,4 I got scoliosis I shouldn’t be riding but I was thinking about getting a 250 but I wanna be able to lower it as much as it can then just grow through it the seat high on these are 37in and I got kinda short legs so I was wondering how much you could sag this thanks!
Look into devol lowering links, they can lower the seat height close to an inch and a half.
do you set the sag immediately after picking the bike up at the dealer? Or do you wait and break the suspension in first and then set sag?
You can set it and then check it again after the suspension breaks in because it will change a little. Or you can leave it for the first few rides. Up to you but I would set it first and then check it later - Chase
Don't forget to readjust the chain afterwards
Nope, nothing to do with it. Your standard chain slack applies all the time, right or wrong sag.
Do you have to adjust the chain too if you adjust monoshock?
You shouldn't have to but the chain slack should be checked frequently and it's definitely not a bad idea after doing any suspension changes.
@@rmatvmc sounds good. Thank you for the reply!
Do u have to set it to ur own weight I’m just 11 stone new to ridden be great if could help me thanks
Yes, doing this process is adjusting the bike to your specific weight. The first measurement you take is free sag which is when the bike is unweighted on a center stand. But the second measurement is rider sag which will vary depending on how much you weight, your riding gear, and your position on the bike. You will be set if you follow the process in this video!
@@rmatvmc thanks appreciate all ur help on TH-cam so helpful
When you adjusted the suspension nut 2 rotations wouldnt that effect the free sag that you first measured?
It won't affect the free sag (bike on the stand) but it will affect the static sag (bike on the ground with no rider). The static sag number is what will help you know if you need a lighter or heavier shock spring. There is a window that you want your static sag to be in and depending if you're over or under that window, you will want a different spring rate. - Chase
@@rmatvmc Thank you, I grasp it better now
Would you now have to adjust the front forks height as well??
Adjusting the sag is only concerning the rear shock but it's a good idea to set your fork height correctly if you haven't yet. The fork tube height is really rider preference and most people will recommend making changes 2mm at a time and see how the bike handles. Lowering the fork tubes will create more stability at high speeds but at the cost of losing some cornering performance, while raising the tubes up in clamps puts more weight on front wheel which can increase cornering performance but also make bike less stable at high speeds.
Rocky Mountain ATV MC hey thanks man I really appreciate it
Wouldn't the first measurement (the one taken on the stand) change depending on how much pre-load is set already?
Negative. The preload you put on the shock spring only affects when the bike is on the ground. A shock spring that doesn't have weight on it will always completely extend.
@@rmatvmc I see now, thank you for the clarification
Rocky Mountain atv video also !!!!!!!
My Crf150rb sags really bad what do u think I should do?
new heavier shock spring.
How would you tighten the sag if it’s already at the bottom
Would you go the other way when you hit it?
Hell yeah 😎👌.. perfect..
Hey guys! Great video, was wondering if you had any tips or thoughts on setting sag on a Motocross bike ('16 KX450) that is going to be converted to supermoto. Same basic procedure or should I take some different things into consideration? No jumping, just street/canyon carving for riding style.
It's the same process but I have no idea how supermoto guys like to set up their bags for sag. I'd search some forums to see what you can find. - Chase
A qiuck thought, since more sag=better high speed stability, I personally would start around 5mm more that the stock max sag and adjust from there. Example, if stock sag range is 95-100mm, try starting at 105mm.
Do you know what is stock compression and rebound for a 2004 Honda cr 125 I don’t have the owner manual
I don't know personally. But a safe starting point is to go right in the middle. Back your clickers all the way out and then count how many clicks you have going all the way in. Find out what those numbers are and start halfway and go from there. There might also be some forums out there you could browse. - Chase
@@rmatvmc thanks bro
So, i can just adjust the stiffness and rebound and that’ll adjust sag in stead of playing with the spring. It’s that a wrong way of going about it
What if your rebound and compression clickers are altered from stock settings? Does that effect setting the sag? Do I need to go and get the clickers to stock first then do this or are they independent of each other? Or do you set clickers first then sag? I can't find a definitive answer anywhere...
It's wise to set your clickers all back to stock at least when you have a new bike and are breaking in your suspension. Once everything is broken in and you've tweaked all your settings to your liking it's ok to check sag without going back to standard stock settings. Your just checking spring rate really. If it's the correct spring for your weight. If it's correct your race sag and static sag numbers should be close to what you manual says. If one or the other or both are way off or you've had to make to many turn to your preload adjuster, soft or stiff and the neuters do not work out you will need to replace your shock spring, softer or harder and work the numbers again.
How did you come up with the number of 100 if your just picking a “random” spot on the fender, and you guys were under 100 so didnt you have to tighten the spring to raise the bike? You kept saying you were loosening it, which would make the bike drop down right?
I say in the video that this bike's manual calls for 100mm of sag. The spot on the fender is just for consistency so you always have the same measuring point. He was at about 96-97mm of sag which means the bike wasn't saggin enough and that is why we loosened the spring so the bike would sit a little lower (around 100mm) with the rider on the bike. - Chase